Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, May 2, 1915, Page 21

5 Miss Rose O'Neill, Who Will Be a Jnd& of the Sketches for the Universal Gown for NT 'to secure a model gown, 2 MOVEME! A suitable: for all" day and evening. wear, and adapted to the needs of the majority of women has been sfarted by a committee of prominént club women of New York. . The movement in this necessary ‘:d laudable direction bears the name, the Polymuriel Prize Fund. The originator of the idea has given to It the combined names of her two daughters, Polly and Muriel. The chairman of the committee of clubwomen having the matter in charge is Mrs. A. M. Palmer, president of the Rainy Day Club, the organization to whose credit may be set down the sane practice which has saved the lives of many Amer- fcan women and assured the health and lives of their children, that of wearing sufficlently short gkirts on days of storm. The committee has set practically and efficiently about its task, for it has placed in the bank $150 to be awarded to who- ever will furnish a design for a costume fulfilling its requirements. It foreshad- ows the prizewinning gown in the gentencé “We desire an universal gown for women, one. showing the strongest combination of beauty, comfort, simplicity and dura- bility.” Mrs. A. M. Palmer, who has been termed “The Mother of the Ralny Day kirt,” outlines the committee’s plan in these words: Business women, prof nal women, busy women of most sorts have long need- ed a frock that they could wear to an office or a business meeting and in which they could also appear guitably attired at a luncheon, a matinee or an afternoo reception. “My own idea is that the garment should be built upon simple lines. It'should pre- ferably consist of one piece. Its silhou- ette should not too strongly suggest an umbrella, a knitting needle, an hour glass, a pyramid, inverted or otherwise, or other ot the geometric forms into which women bave from time to time tortured their bedies. “It should be neither so scant mor so voluminous that it will be grotesque. It should be a design that could be adapted te the tall or the short, the stout or the slender woman, the old and the young. It should be suitable for 1ght or heavy materials. according to season or weather. HE Game Bird Society of the United States is urging the passage of this very sensible new game law: “That all birds end animals reared or bred in captivity shall be consid- ered domestic stock, and the owner or raiser thereof may keep, sell, ship, transport or otherwise dispose of them, and such stock shall not be af- fected or covered by any laws pro- hibiting or regulating the killing or disposition of birds and animals of the game kind grown or propagated in a wild state.” In support of the intelligence of such a law the soclety points out that of the eggs of quail set by the birds in a wild state 81 per cent hatch, Of the eggs of the same bird hatched in captivity on private game farms 72 per cent hateh. Of the bipds hatched in the wild state, 15 per cent attain maturity. Of the eggs hatched in private preserves, 64 per cent mature. These figures are taken from one hundred and seven observations made in the years 1908, 1909, 1910, 1911,.1912, 1913 and 1914. “‘hese figures can be amplified by the statement of the observers, & part of It should be.comfortable for drawing room wear or suitable for walking: “It is a difficult rmblom we have set, yes. But it is not ympossible. I have faith.in the cleverness of designers. I think some American will give a design for such a costume and earn the gratitude of all women, compared with which the $150 prize is a bagetelle.” Upon Mrs. Rose O'Neill Wilson, the gifted ‘and beautiful artist who originated the kewpies, and who has recently given the world the newest fad, which is a Mer- kewp,” a kewple of the semblance of a mermaid, with which ft is the fashion to bathe, hasg fallen the committe: of one whi all judge of the artistic mer- its. of the sketches. While Miss O'Neill ‘will pasgs upon the beauty of the sketches, her colleagues of the committee, Mrs. A, M, Palmer, Miss Florence Guernsey and Mrs. Mildred Johnstone Landone, the originator of the idea, will contribute their ideas and votes on the matter of utility as well as beauty. “A garment may be beautiful as weH as useful,” 18 a ray of hope shed by the fa- mous artist. “We must not assume that to be durable a costume must be ugly.” Another ray of hope. “A garment need not be made of expensive material to be beautiful. Some lovely stuffs now cost ten cents or less a yard. “This movement for & universal ment s one of the worthiest outgrowths of womgn'’s liberty of thought. It is a step toward stopping the enormous waste in dress, the waste ef strength, of time, of nervous force and so of life. “The clothes we have been wearing have imprisoned our waists and ankles. They have squandered our time and nervous force by endless intricacles of fastenifigs. Why" dbes it take a man so short a time to dress and a woman so long? For in- stance, have you watched a man stalk angrily about the beach at the seashore walting for his wife to disrobe herself and get into her bathing costume, or after the bath attire herself for a more conventional appearance? It is because she does not get into her garments in the same way, and when she has gotten into them has to dally with innumerable contrivances for keeping the garments on. “Two practicable and invaluable hints A Sensible Game Law SuggeStefl at which is as follows: “Chickens were origi- pally a wild bird. The habitat of the chicken is very limited. fi consisted of & strip of territory bordering on the Medi- terranean Sea on the southern border of Europe, the western border of Asia, and & part of the northern shore of Africa. The chicken was not domesticated until after the coming of Christ. Then we learn from Clixtus that e certaln fowl very shy of mankind was brought to Athens and after three seasons reared progeny. Since then the chicken has be- come the most numerous of all birds. If laws were to be enacted protecting chick- ens from hunters and butchers and for- bidding their ownmership and rearing by private industry there would not be a chicken in existence in five years. Some contend that if private ownership, sale and killing of any game birds is per- mitted, it will accomplish destruction of that bird by affording game hunters an opportunity to kill the wild game and palm it off on the public as domestic stock. The Chinese ring-neck pheasant is not a native of this country. All the game laws devised would not make the New York Club-Women Offer Prizes for Designs for a Dress a Woman Can Wear All Day with Appropriateness men have given us in the matter of dress. We should accept and adopt them. A man slips his shirt bver his head. e should be able to get into our garments in the same way. In my studio and at home or for evening wear, 1 usually wear a cos- tume that 1 can slip over my head. This robe is made of one long, broad piece of cloth. An opening is cut in the middle for the meck. The selvedged edges are joined at the side by a seam, leaving a long opening for the arms. This foundation garment I fasten at the neck or bosom by & cord or clasp. Presto, I have dressed in less than a minute. For beauty's sake I often wear a second and shorter tunio, of the same or a contrasting color. If I add this to my costume the process of dressing requires a full midute. 1 have accepted the second hint men have given us in dress, to use few and simple fastenings. “Buch a garment can be made in an hour, Think of the time saved for fitting. For this garment needs not to be fitt Women can make the costume themselv or if they give the task over to & dre maker who has their ‘measures' in her book they need never vistt her establish- ment. “My own conception of a universal cos- tume for women is a combination of Greek and Turkish apparel. Tha Greek costume s beautiful, because it serves the two pur- poses of drapery for the body. It vells and floats. It gives a woman the sense of being hidden in her robe, and this sense is pecullarly agreeable to a woman, especially if she be a plentifully rounded one. Nothing lovelier, so far as intrinsic beauty goes, was ever devised than the early Greek robes, for all women. For eyen the over plump woman looks as well in them she does in the present re- vealing fashions. “But 1 advise a combination of the Greek with the Turkigh accessoriies. I do not care for the upper part of the Turkish garments. They are too heavy and bur- densome about the shoulders. I eliminate their robes from all my plans {for dress, but ‘I do earnestly advocate the nether ents. The Turkish pantalettes are mum and comfortable. They are much more practicable than the skirts of the day, because they are closed at the ankles. No need to fear rheumatism, ye who wear them, “A Greek tunic reaching to the ankles at the sides, and below the knees in front, with a pair of Turkish lottes, 18 a combination that is beautiful and practical. A tunic of satin and pantalettes of velvet would be charming for Winter. ' An extra "tunie could be worn for warmth. “In the Summer the soft cheap stuffs, such as cheesecloth could be utllized. “For footwear 1 recommend sandals with a strong strap over the fnstep. 1 do not advise, as some extremists do, dlscarding hoslery. I shrink from thought of that extreme be- cause the dust of the street 18 hor- rible and rhenac- ing. Wear the dainty stockings of the day by all means, but let them have large, \ doose garters /,' woven into them as the elastics are fastened into the bloomers of bath- ing suits, “For lingerie with garment , I have described I should advise lighter, looser gar- ments of the same kind. With this might be worn a brassliere, but never a cor'set. “I should like to see a Summer costume devised Chinese ring-neck a resident of this coun- try. That required private enterprise, An American official resident in China be- came wacquainted with this bird and brought some to this country. ‘The bird was then unknown to this country and on that account there were no fool game laws to prevent raising the birds. He raised many. be liberated in Washington and Oregon, and as a result those States are now well stocked. Englend is ahead of the United States and Canada in many respects, one of which is game legislation. In Bhgland wild game hunting is only allowed under regulations made by Parlia- ment, but all the game laws of Hngland expressly provide it shall be legal for any. person to relse, ship, sell and kill game for pleasure or profit. The English sport- ing fraternity learned of the success of the ring-neck experiment in Oregon and immediately undertook their propagation. To-day the pheasant populstion of Eng- land is twice as great as the human popu- lation of that island, and the secretary of the “Fleld Sports and Game Guild” of Bng- land and Scotland gives In its directory Copyright. 1915, by the Btar Comnany. The Greek Costume, Miss Serves the Two Pur- poses of Drapery for the BOdi‘.l It Veils and Individual Than the Full Skirt. Most of these * O'Neill Says, oats. s for the season of 1913-1914 the names and addresses of twenty-four game raisers who in that season set seventy-fiye thou- san pheasant hens. Don't get the idea that this is & typographical error. 'The figure 1s 75,000, Owm the other hand, a cessful rearing of phe: in the United States, game hunters, game commissioners and legislators succeeded in having several States enact laws prohibiting their do- mestic rearing and handling. The result 1s that it is taking us & painfully long period of time to put upon a solid foun dation an industry that England made a success in ten years. It is due solely to private industry that we have the ring- neck in America The States that interfered with Chinese pheasant culture have in the main seen the light and it is now permissible to rear the birds in most Btates. There are still some fowl laws to be repasled, but as they are not enforced it is not a matter of immediate moment. One such law was passed by the Btate of New York. It permits rearing and sale of pheasants in Great Rritain Rizhts Ressrvaed s0on as the suc- TaE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE MAGAZINE PAGE This Costume Is Beau- tiful but Impossible as a Polymuriel Foun- dation, Because It Denies ' the Fullest Freedom of Move- ment, o & dollar. Think of a costume hour and that one can minute or less. . I enters a heavens, ally from North the State, but forblds any person bringing any pheasant into the State. They say that law was passed ‘o increase the num- ber of New York pheasants. Another law Is that of Indiana, which permits the rear- ing and sale of pheasants, but forbids any rallroad or express company to accept them for shipment. The asininity of such ! is self-evident. While the ringmeck pheasant In a strange country and in all its different elimates has thriven because it has been raised by private pafties as & business enterprise, the prairle chicken, native grouse, quall and other native game birds bave been almost exterminated by disease, natural enemles, rodents and the gradual thickening of the human population which destroys their feeding and hiding places. Give private part] the right to rear quail a8 & business and the interested persons will protect, feed and care for them, and &8s a consequence they will multiply. They will be reared and fre- quently sold to clubs and individuals who will liberate them for stocking purposes. Private ‘and Btate hatoheries make possi- ble the restocking of our fishing grounds. that can be made in simple stuffs for ©oosts a dollar, that can be made in an vell the body, but it wlll float about it. When a woman room there should be a vislon of floating things, of drap- erles swirling about her as cloud float in the “I hope that the designers of the universal costume will: keep in mind the three desira- ble characteristics of clothing, beay- ty suitabllity to ness, and especi- torturing ‘form of feminine harness, the corsét, as the Pole from Th.e.'l‘isht Skirt Is More Original and The Greek Tunic, with Turkish Pantal- the South. ettes, Is Suggested by Miss O'Neil! “When we are O'Neil] De. signed for Her 'Sister and that .{\fi’meh, es Her Idea) of the Universal Gown. as far from the blirden of eclothes tha g5 men are we may equal or even surpass them in great world achieve ments. . . At , present we hobbig through our tasks and aré incalcula: bly hondieapped in their perform: ance. ' 1) b “Of the twe extremes fo whick fashion has led us, I prefer the for mer to the present. The tight skirt slit, of course, was more graceful than-the. present full pne, for it fol lowed the outline of the figure. 1 yrotest ugainst the present volumin ous skirt. It is g lll’?_llll back inte the commonplace. “Men have been making our clothet for us. It is time that women fur nished them. This is the beginning.’ The contest will continge until mid night on the last day of May. Or June 15 fhe announcement of the prize winner, and the description of the wearer and the prize winning garment will be the qocasion, and made. Sketches of the much-desirec freedom of move- garment will be sent to the Poly ment. It must be muriel Prizé Fund Committee, No as far from har-/ 628 Riverside Drive. They must be accompanied by an assumed name, In an extra envel ope, sealed, will be the true name of the competitor, All New York clubwomandom is interested in the plan. Miss O'Nelll's slogan has been adopted: “Beauty Suitabllity and, Freedom.” that All the protective laws did not increase the number of fish. A man will protect his money, and it bis money is invested in quail he will pro- tect he quall. It was Buffalo Jones whe saved the buffalo in this country, because he bought a few specimens and kept them for their increase. It is not always the hunter that kills and exterminates game, Disease, starvation and lack of proper care {8 the biggest factor in game destruce tlon. In & wild state it Is estimated that it required all North America to support two hundred thousand Indians, and it is estimated the population of this continent was two hundred thousand when Colume bus discovered .it. But civilization and comfort enable more people to live in a given territory than can live in the same territory in savagery. What is true of human beings s true of game, Also, the time is rapidly passing when farmers who own and cultivate the land will tolerate laws made solely to permit some loafer with a gun to tear down fences, destroy crops, shoot domestic ani- mals, kill human beings and outrage gens erosity for the purpose of calling h a sportsman and killing game that the tarmer's land has protected and the farme er's grain hes fod y