Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, May 1, 1910, Page 27

ARIS.—[Special Correspondence.] — During this last week there has been a grand re- adjusting of fashions, something that al- ways happens immediately after the show Ing of the models both in the spring and fall, and before the season has fully set in. There are invariably certain of these that do not fail to catch the public fancy and =0, of course, they are made up wnd worn and be come an established fact almost as soon as they have been seen There are others, however, that for some reason or other meet with only lukewarm success, and these are carefully gone over, their defects remedied, and their good points further worked up until frequently they are among the best of the season's offerings. Lastly there are some that are total fallures and are blacklisted in every direction, and these disappear quick- ly into some mysterious region, no one seems to know where, and are seen no more, at least not under thelr original guise. It would surprise the uninitiated to know how many of these there are, for It is a secret the couturleres guard well, but as they keep equally well the secret of thelr disappearance, it does not so much matter. One fact has so far been proven and that s that there 1s to be a mad craze for checks, particularly those of black and white, for they are being turned out by the score, and in all sorts of materials and many styles. Those for the street, such as serge and twill, are strictly tailored, with skirts that are plaln and coats that are cut on the most severe lines. st L Occasionally a touch of color will appear in a walst- coat or the facing of a collar, but as a rule the only concession that is made to these costumes is in the but- tons, which may and frequently are, of gold, siiver, or some fancy effect, and the larger and more stunning the better. Without doubt they make smart suits for morning wear and for traveling, automobiling, and the ltke, nothing could be better, for they are almost im- pervious to dust and dirt and somehow always look neat and trim French women wear with these costumes blouses made of a new sort of cotton crépe, which is little crinkled and shows a weave more llke a crépe de chine. They are simply made, sometimes with a cluster of broad plaits down the front, with feather stitching between and the fastening In the back, or again buttoning over from left to right with large pearl buttons, trimmed in scarlet or blue If the low collar is worn, the best models of these are made in small tabs of tucked batlste edged with narrow lace, fitting closely about the neck and falling over the blouse, and if the high one is preferred then they are as stiff and high as possible, finished with a frilled jabot or smart little tie of some bright colored he hats that generally accompany these costumes are small and close, quite covering the halr all but a soft wave that comes over the ears. There are two or three good shapes, but the favorite seems to be a folded aftair made precisely like the turban of an Indian prince, ( the material belng mohair or coarse open braid, which is ‘&mble enough to be bent In any manner. L A great deal of color appears in these little hats and in some wonderful combinations, red and black, brilliant blue and dark green, but they are trimmed as sparsely possible and thelr cachet all depends upon thelr shape and the way in which they are worn. A button- hole bouguet of some flower the color of the hat, and boots with checked tops to match the gown complete an ensemble that makes the Parisian woman a gratifying sight. It {8 not alone for morning and traveling costumes that checks are to be worn, for a great many soft ma- terlals are being shown for afternoon frocks which later will be seen at the seashore or other resorts. Silks and chiffons both are llked and both make wearable dresses for half dressy oocasions. Bechoft-Davis, who this year 18 excelling In gowns that are simple and youthful, has several models that are smart. One shows a skirt of silk cashmere, all black, with a bodice of chiffon, at- tached to the skirt with heavy cordings. On the upper part there were large revers of checked siik, which fell over others of chiffon. These revers were soft, being unlined, and in the back they were cut square like deep tabs. The sleeves, kimono shaped, were of chiffon, with broad turned-back cufts of the silk. The real style of the gown was in the coat, which was of silk, of course the checked, made like & Russlan blouse, but entirely velled with chiffon and having deep cufts and a small shaped plece about the neck of plain black #llk. The fastening was at the left, and the belt Wwas of patent leather with white stitching. Another gown' of the same variety was of chiffon the ‘overskirt being finely plaited and falling over an underskirt of liberty satin. This costume was bright- ened with a bit of vivid embroidery which b oint at the bust and extended up to the neck, w h- round and collarless. Here it was met with a double frill §f cream lace, and there were frilled ouffs edging the rather wide sleeves. This fashion of a plain skirt with a checked overskirt, or coat, is a distinet change from that of several seasons ago, when It was just reversed, the coat Invariably being black and the skirt of the plaid Besides checks there are all sorts of dotted and spotted stuffs being used, the only exception being in frocks for the street, which are mostly plain. Even the tussores are belng brought out now in bordered designs, sometimes & plain band of contrasting color on which appears spots of the natural shade, while on others there are big and little dots put on irregu- larly, sometimes to the depth of cighteen or more ' Evenung Gown of Black Liberty davin writh a Princess Overdr of Jetss and Steel Beads, The U¢pen Fart of the Cors Has aWide Folaed Fiece of Cor'al Satin. MODEL FROM BECHOFF - DAVID y 4 Checlted Ser Gun Metal Leather, FRart BEE: MAY 1. 1910 e Costetme Tr-xmmegi writh Sowtache Braiding uttons. Scawlet Collar and Iy Covered with owctache Br, and Belr of Scarlet Bten aid. MOPEL FROM RIVAIN [ Gown. of Green Gauze Made Overa Lining of Changeable Liberty Satin FBertha of Green Bugles wira EAde af Gold,and Incrustration: of Gold LEICC L F}”\‘(]! MODEL FROM LAFERR IERE ches. These m of the are inserted a popular band part of the The bodices for can be made it s necess should be trimmed a slonally a touch cording, and the border skirts; like plain model for s seldom appear dir rather bands into the skirt making semi-skirts, ctly at many aress. entire gowns 50 much 8o that one ¢ that rid far expected to construct ti t not at all, a tiny embroldery are some us dressmake em. They bit of lace, of lttle pumMng thing . e sleeves folluw for 'tallored s and difference befng that others are quite season and sh intended for ans reach the f ordinary blouses, the sl than Just the elbow there 18 one, 18 usually turned Skirts and narrower, and is It 1s slways held trimming. the same general that is the kimono 16 la and moderately they lines, cept only while As the \orter now are and frequ with sleeves that This is small advances ter, and duytime are one sees 1se by even true in the ves of which a4 the cuft ack onto the never trill mater fu are let sort of a bordering the gow ance to any but tk skirt which looks equally odd when first seen {s t one that is held In by pufts and cords, sometimes eral tlers of them arranged at narrower Into them band or when by t rew the they form overskirts or This 18 the no matter how broad it Is, holding in the upper s simple as they ten wonders why are ex- the bagiy growlug gowns more some These are frequently slving the most curlous appear- slightest of figures, and another