Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 17, 1910, Page 41

THE A4 HINTS F OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: APRIL PERSIAN \DE - Hat of Davk R/ OR THE H e ———] L/ 4 . wrban of Coarse lan Straw with and Aanging Teimmings Geranium fed Straw, Trzmamed with Huge Bow of Shaded Ribbor. ard a Fancy Gold Brckle N Straw Qlored Satmm Flouse with Q Yoke of Irish anad Filet-Lace E'mbroidered inn Gold and. Edged with Deeyp Gold Fringe ARIS.—(Special Correspondence.]—Hats are the affairs of vital interest at present, to the exclusion of other items of dress, for the French woman of fashion dons her headgear for the coming season far in ad: vance of her EOWDS OF Other ACOBSSO! of her tollet. So hats it is, and they are of all sorts, big and little, high and low, and I haj almost sald rich and poor, only that there are none of the latter. It is difficult to say what is the particular prevailing mode. Small hats nowadays do not in any sense mean & head covering that measures little in actual inches, but rather that these new hats are small by comparison As & matter of fact, even those to Which is applied that adjective cover the head almost to the nape of the neck and allow almost nothing of hair or even ears to be seen. So far, toques and turbans are the favorites, and it is & question which one has the greater number of admir- ers. The spring toques are longer in outline than those worn during the winter, some of them having quite a pointed brim in the front which comes down well over the face. They are made of straw or tulle or a com- bination of the two, ani flowers and lace also enter largely into their composition. * % The interbralding of straw with tulle is considered smart, and some lovely color schemes are evolved by this. - Burnt orange straw plaited with two shades of yellow tulle and trimmed with & mouster chou of the three colors is new, as is also black straw braided with €0id and deep metallic blue and having for its decora- tion & single osprey shaded from black to blue. Toques, with their wide, upturning brims covered with dull gold lace or with brownish lace straw, are fashion- able, and these are irimmed either with some sort of large. flat flowers, with huge tulle bows, or with fancy aigrets. Most of the trimming is placed well toward the back. sometimes directly in the center, so that the keeping of ome’s hat poised at the exactly proper angle is a dificult matter and one that requires much care in its pinning. With all thelr decoration in the back these hats are prone to slip and get out of place, nothing takes away from their chic appearance more than does the slightest look of falling backwards, Turbans of coarse straw, having enormous crowns of pufed tulle, are being shown in some of the best places and are among the attractive models. Usually the brim is several shades lighter than the crown, and the color that I!s most .in vogue for these Is brown, from the deepest chestnut shade to those of soft tan, old gbld, and Jdeep cream. These hats are lit- tie trimmed, for the crowns are so much falled ana puffeq that they require little, but occasionally a single flower or a buneh of shaded follage will appear among the soft pufing at one side. ® * Another good model in the new turbans has also the fransparent crown of tulle and loosely woven brim of fancy straw, but the former is entirely covered with flowers, masses of roses, bunches of cherries with their leaves any stems, Parma violets, wallfiowers, or any colored blossoms that one may wish to match the cos- tume. These make serviceable hats and are especially adapted to be worn with one's first tailor suit The fashion of wearing the spring turban coquettish, is most for instead of being placed on the head stralght it is worn as far on one side as is safe. To keep them firmly in place & small barette is sewn in at one side, generally the left, which lifts the hat slightly, and a series of well adjusted pins does the rest, with the most fascinating result imaginable. For evening tall turbans are the most worn—white, black, or colors—and quite an oriental effect is given them by wearing dlamond and pearl ornaments on them of great magnificence. The hats are made to look ght and delicate as possible, and to accomplish this the tulle is draped about the frames any number of times, which are otherwise unlined, with the softest and airiest effect Large hats this spring are mostly of mohalr and fine straw, and their trimming consists of feathers, garlapds of the loveliest flowers, and enormous tulle bows, in- variably put on in the back. The shapes are eifher the wide brimmed ones, straight like a huge, high sailor, or they are the most picturesque brimmed ones that turn at the side and droop slightly both back and front. * * A word must be given to hatpins, the beauty and cost- liness of which constantly are increasing. This season offers a wonderful number of novelties. Great dragon- flies of horn or emamel, beeties in gorgeous colors, a large cabochon forming the body, any number of com- binations in enamel and semi-precious stones, are some of the best that have been seen. All are exceptionally large, and it seems as if there would be no limit to what extravagance in size would go. One thing in their favor Is that they lnvariably are ornamental, and as long as this is the case they doubtless will continue to grow. The production of “Chantecler” has had a certain effect upon the fashions, particularly on hats and hat- pins. Most beautiful little enameled affairs, either the head of & cock or a perfect pheasant in miniature, are shown mounted on long pins or on short clasp pins for fastening one's vells. The colors used in these are simply stunning, and for a while, at least, they will be a novelty * ® There also are metallic luminous feathers, which are 10 be seen mounted on forms of different birds, which are used as pins or ornaments. These same feathers are made up into buckles, odi shaped flies, and even into flowers of tropical coloring and curious shapes Besides these trimmings and little trifies there are some new neck ruches, called the “Chantecler” ruche, which consists of a three inch band of glossy feather, with drooping tall for one end and small, brilllant col- ered head at the other. They fasten closely about the throat, and as the bands themselves are shaded in fine tones of greens and blues they are more of jess be- coming. and for any one who s 10 appear in the latert ery will carry out this wish perfectly. Tallor made frocks are the ones that are engaging ~ ¢ StrawwithT Crown over Which 7@ Shaded Crepe Fosc® our attention now, and although in these the styles always are more conservative than for afternoon Or evening gowns, there are some suggestions to be made. Serge 1s still the material most in use and promises to be so for all tailored costumes for everyday during the entire summer. The coarse, loosely woven serge, however, has quite gone out of date, and In its ce 1s what is known as real English serge, which is quite different in weave and texture. They are more like the old herringbone serge, but Instead of being hard and unyielding as were those, these new ones are as soft and pliable as silk. The threads are small and they are closely woven, but for all that they are d lightfully supple and most agreeable to wear. Some of the weaves show a basket effect, others are a regular diagonal, and still others are striped, but all self-toned Some of the new models are being made without coats, and in olace of the time honmored jacket these have regular little sailor blouses, which tuck into the walstband of the skirts, are finished with braiding, but- tons, pockets, and collar, and are altogether smart and youthful looking. T have seen several of this style with skirts plaited on to a tightly fitted yoke and with a bit of Bralding on them or not, as one pleases. The blouses are made up over a lining, but there is a small amount of fullness cunningly arranged in the front under a fitted belt of braid and cloth. The necks are made slightly low, as are the necks of most of the gowns and many of the coats this season, and are finished with some fiat braid- ing or embroidery and a turniover collar of.coarse linen, heavily embroidered. or of English eyelet work The sleeves are larger than during the winter and show more fullness on the shoulders, and although not an elbow sleeve, they do not come entirely down to the wrist, and have for their finish & narrow upturning cuff and & flat band of embroldery or English work. % For the regulation tallored costumes, which are as much of a necessity as are one's boots and hats, the short coats are having it all their own way, for absc- lutely none of the long coated models of a year ago are to be seen. A few of the new coats are in the style of th Russian blouse, but shorier and with closer lines. These lend themselves to a more elaborate style of trim- ming (han do any other of ihis wpring's coats, and for the woman who favors a softer method of dressing they are certain to be popular. They are all short, how- ever, little below the hips, and what trimming there is appears in the form of motives down, the front or in loops of brald with ornameénts of passementerie. wear R (YR S S — Cherries and Leaves Tawrpe Colored Serge Trimimed with, g2 Soutache and SilkRR Braia of a Darker N Shade. Sailor Blowrse With Brgiding 1 med and Gold Birttons) OME DRESSMAKER. #4 ) \\ 3 Gllar of Heavily Embrdidered L!nCn MODEL FROM BERNARD. A good deal of attention is pald to the belts of these coats, and when they are not of metal, as they sometimes afe, and most gorgeous, they are of bands of braid combined with ornaments. The belts also are worn much closer than they were on the winter coats, and everything now is made to look as trim and snug as possible. Other coats show basque effects, plaited. plain undulating, as best suits the figure, and these gen: arc put on from the hip seam and reach midway to the knees. They look jaunty, and as a rule they are becom- ing, which is as much as can be asked of any garment or outer * * Most of the coats are collariess, but as have disappeared pockets seem to be coming on to take their place. And they are real pockets which might put her hands if she liked and which certainly would admit of a handkerchief and tiny purse, a the average woman has not enjoyed for many s They are placed on the coats according to #0 as to give a shortening or lengthening effect to it, and are usually elaborately braided or embroi- dered. Frequently these pockets are the only orna- ments on a coat There is & rumor which will fiot down that to have satin tallored costumes later in the and although as yet none entirely of that material have appeared I have seen several in which cloth and satin were combined. The latter has formed the body of the frock, but so much of the former has been employed In its trimming that they have quite lost the effect of satin costumes. . An especially good one in olive green of a k hue had its skirt trimmed with two wide bands of soft faced cloth, the satin space between being oply as wide as the upper band. The coat also had cloth s0 cunningly combined with it that It was tmpossible to regard it as a satin coat. It appeared In a wide. short stole front and back and as deep low set pockets over the hips, while the entire upper part of the sleeves and wide cuffs were entirely of cloth The satin which s used for these costumes is dull faced and Is therefore a pleasant contrast to cloth or any other woolen matertal which might be combined with it these teo, into one lux- sons. figure, the we are spring * % & threatened banishment of the pet taken place, and from present and attractive article of feminine wear- ing apparel has been granted a new of life They bave, to be sure, been reduced to the smallest dimensions possible, but just the same they are ap- pearing in some new models which are every bit as The lon not as yet this dainty coat has indications lease P pretty as the befrilled ar our delight in former da: # The latest show a jersey silk foundation which fits perfectly close as far as the knees, for the satin sun ray plaited skirt of last season Is con- sidered too ample. This jersey foundation is finished with a shaped flounce of liberty satin or with one of ‘satin ninon which is put on with wide shallow box plaits. The edges of flounces show flat puft ings, sometimes of the same material o of chiffon or net colored to the same shade. have a deep fringe of at the top of the flounce to within an inch or two of the bottom over These are pretty, quite uressy, and lasting A charming mode! in & wash skirt is of china silk of a good quality and made close fit- ting top. From the knees falls a scant fidunce of the same silk bordered with a printed design and done in the natural shades, and just below this is a tiny frill of 1 berufMed ones which wers now these Others heni hanging he puffs e put on and with the usua of roses cave lace * % A similar one which I saw lately had the stamped put to the flounce in panels, each edged about with a narrow knife plaiting of silk, and the effect was lovely. Stamped and printed silks used in this manner have just the appearance of much of the painted work which 50 fashionable on chif- fons and other soft fabrics, and as It Is guaranteed to wash perfectly it should enjoy a great deal of popu- larity Generaliy speaking lingerie is of the finest linen, of the most exquisite kind, some of it costing as much As $5 a yard, but linen batiste is also greatly used, at about & 0fh of the cost. Cotton batiste is also em- d and much of this is attractive Colored ribbons in any kind 8¢ undergarments are quite out of date, and ultra elegance demands noth- ing but white satin Many fashionable women discerded chemises for account of the arued chemises are alm being made seamed In' is empire with tened on tae border on bas been have white silk combinations, on slimness, bup the latest Jose fitting as combinationeg the figure. The best model lace running up and down and fas- shoulders with ribbons. They are all decollete, and the lace trimming around the ~neck ontinues below the bust. A deep but scant lace rufle finishes the bottom, and Instead of the usyal beading three small puffs join the flounce Corset covers are mosg slaborate and all fasths in the back, an inconvenield model, as by no o bility can one do them up oWESelf. The basque shape is 00 longer considered the préftiest, but the fnish i now always at the waist, a wide beadlag being used with & tiny lace frill below. abe anelf— & with 4 She ex- nves. while and flutty \dv.