Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 17, 1910, Page 40

BN —————— | VERY (CHIC SP F Materials ING COWNS for Them Pretty, Color Schemes Dafing, \/ i, |\ NEW VOGUE OF T Poetioal Side of Drems the Names of the Sea teriale — Printed Espectally Be —~ IN PARIS pressed in n's Mae Designs Y ’ 5 o NEW YORK, April 18.—The names of the new dress materials, like the names of the new colors, are full of suggestion, even of poetry, and it seems rather a pitty that none save the manufacturers and an ocea- stonal buyer or dressmaker ever uses them The ordinary salesman or customer lumps & class of goods under one general head and makes one name spread its charitable mantle over a wide area, but reading a list of names ‘of imported materials fills one's mind with vague dreams and visions. When a salesman talks of wauze,” one can listen to him without a thrill, even though he brings forth the most enchanting of flowered stuffs to illus- trate his theme, but when one reads in a jeseription of a Callot frock that it was made of “gauze mille-fleurs” straightwa 'the poet in one awakes. Gauze of a thou- wand flowers! That's quite a different thing from flowered gauze, Then there is “fleur de printemps prime” The uninitiated might call Welectable material “printed gauze.'" i “flowered fm- that As a FOULARD AND CHIFFON, matter of fact it is a gauze printed in mmall sonventional designs, but it is a pe- Wind of gauze, & very lovely kind of ghiize “Fisur de printemps (flower of Apringtime), ds & uame none too good for | 18 y < Isn't & moire tive thing than & moire & Ninon Pekin conjure vision than a blus and wh Yes, it's really a plity, thut i & nore attrac- Doesti't ‘tnore plguant It would lend a zest to shoppl lyrie touch to the buying of, terial. i Last week we saw a wondal& of samples, a collection to and despair in any feminine obtain goods like any one of of the samples was quite out of ' lon, These pleces of material, neatly in large books had been wids bp the exclusive materials of the greatest Paristan dressmaking houses. A “New York im- porter, a man who kuéw intimately the older generation of dress artists and has watched the present starh risq bove the horizon, had the bookd made lmp for his own delectation and infermatlon as a source of color inspiration, an’authoritative verdict as to' things ultfa modish, a gulde 1o be followed more or less closely, accord- ing to the possibilities. Same of the materials the pian had im- ported along with models for whigh similar materfal had been used, but nfpst of the samples were unknown land and one looked them over with & slgh that was a tribute 10 the designers and manufacturers, Such lovely things of all weights, all classes! Page after page of gauze and| chiffon and etamine. Scores of silks all varying in welght and weave, but likely by the undiscriminating to be classed as foulards. The various phasés of (hese supple, shimmering, printed silks were im- mensely attractive and some of them were & far cry from the ordinarily accepted foulard. There were beautiful printed twills, too, which American salesmen would also in- clude among the foulards. Printed silk diagonals, printed crepe, printed crepon and printed crape wntique (& crepe with very crimpy surface)—all are fashionable, all are beautiful. That word “Imprimes” (printed) appears after & very large percentage of the names, Never has there been such a season of lovely printed designs in ali materials,” but there are plenty of broche and ramage de- signs, too, plain stuffs galore, embroidered designs and chameleon effects without number, Mention has been made earller In the sea- son of the possibilities for striped materials and the vogue of the stripe scems to be slowly, but surely growing in Paris, though it has at yet found but a slight echo here. An exquisite Paquin frock in gray and white striped gauze With relleving touches of | bleu lavande is one of the latest and most attractive Importations in one well known house, and In another shop is & charming model of wide striped periwinkle blue and white, with creamy lace and notes of black n the trimming. Color combinations are often unusual | A _GOWN OF BN A WHITE CHIFFON PETTICOAT. EMBROIDERED BLUE CHIFFON, and daring, bit some of the more audacious colorings when successfully handled turn | out extraordinarily well and have a refine- ment despite thelr unusualness or their| striking tones. There are, for instance, models In the vivid Toscape shades, the| glowing orange hues which border on what | were once called tangerine colorings. These colorings are not for every one, and the same 18 true of the ripe vellow pinks or pink vellows which are ranked usder the head of eglantine; but both these colors| are In themselves very beautiful and there are exquisite models of these shadings which while brilllant are not loud nor violent One Caliot model sketched for the large cut was of chiffon in a wonderful ripe tone which probably came on the eglantine list. The chiffon was embroidered In self-color and softened by belng made up over creamy white chiffon being held in loosely toward | the bottom by & wide band of fine cream | lace. The eglantine tunic was draped quite | high at the sides, leaving much of the wmu‘l underskirt in evidence. | A collarless guimpe was of the cream lace and through the plain chiffon drapery of the bodice showed a wide band of em- broidery worked In lantine upon |he‘ cream foundation. This same model was | brought ower by another importer in a delicate nattier biue and we have seen it too in a light tone of cyciamen | These éyclamen shades with their bluish | pinks, sometimes dashed with gray, are BROWN AND WHITE FOULARD. very much lked and the artists combine them sugcessfully with certain biues, but an unerring color sense is needed In order to insure perfect harmomy lin_such a union The second model of the large group was one of the genuine successes in this line, a flowered cyclamen gauze over a soft laven- der blue, the whole suggesting ocertatn barmonious hydrangea colorings. Silver lace and little stiff rosettes of the blue were the only trimming. | point Going back once more to the matter of the beautiful vivid colorings mention should be made of the chiffon model in color and made over black satin, which figures in one of the small cuts. A refer- ence was made to this model last week, but no sketch was given then and one can understand oeit from a sketch than from any desuription the absolute sim- plicity of lus in w was nevertheless a notable gown because of Its chie coloring and lovely roaterial. This same model has been broughl over {n & Tuscane yellow and in a Privtcmaps green, but with these colorings a one-tone scheme is main- tained, the black being eliminated and the chiffon being made up over self-color or over white entirely velled. Women have not put aside black with the coming of spring days and springtime colorings and a rather surprising number of black street costumes are to be noted wherever fashionable folk congregate’ Many of these costumes are in soft satiny black silk and chiffon, sllk and etamine, silk and cashmere or serge, or all - silk and they usually take the form of trot- ting frock and coat, the coat being entirely of the silk, while the frock Is largely of the other material trimmed with the silk Often the frock skirt is of silk up to the where It meets the coat Some exceedingly good-looking tailored models are in % black sllk, which probably bears the name of some kind of pongee, and oddly enough several of the smartest models of this type seen recently have been trimmed in & black silk of high luster or satin. One model from Francis which was particularly trig and knowing- looking was of the black raw silk, with plpings of black satin and had a curious little Eton or bolero jacket arrangement with a collar of Japanese blue embroldery. Of the vogue of black and white we have jsi raw BROWN CREPE AND LACE, | | spoken before and there are chic little | trotting frocks of black and white printed foulard, chiffon, ete, trimmed in black silk and with coats of the black sllk. Foul- | wrd frocks, whose skirts are entirely of the | | i1k, @s {8 the lower part of the bodlce, may have the upper part of the bodice and the | sleeves of a different material, more sheer than the foulard. . One good looking little morning frock in brown and white foulard had the upper part of the bodice in a brown broche eta- mina gven the white chiffon, and a clever Taverhier model In foulard has an under bodice of chiffon and an over bodice of the silk which runs up in scarf fashion over : the shoulders and is tied llke a scarf in front of each shoulder. This neéw version of the jumper is shown in one of the small | | plctures. The Russian blouse of chiffon over a skirt or under robe of silk finds expression many grades and in many materials, ranging from very cheap and common- place mod; to others which, though on approximately the same lines, have pro- nounced distinction. It all depends upon | whether or not the idea has filtered through | an artist's brain, We were impressed by this fact the other day, when after seeing a host of eheap and unattractive Russian blouse frocks, during a tour of the shops, we wandered into a work room and came upon & model just out of its packing case, | and being enthusiastically admired by a curps of appreciative work women. It too was a Russian model, upon simple Mnes, but & Russian model with a differ- ence. The skirt was of king's blue satin in & rather deep shade. Over this was a long full-belted coat of chiffon matching the | but finely soutached all over in a | of blye just a trifle lighter. in {1ast season, | many copled frequently and with ] | sign | and there over the surface. M it ! ‘Hm | ward believing that gay Bulgarian is min- gled with | bodice, FLOWERED CHIFFON OVER A SILVER LACE PETTICOAT AND BODICE, AND A FROCK OF EMBROIDERED PINK CHIFFON OVER plain blue chiffon in the lighter shade. There was a narrow band of dull gold galon on the collar and on each sleeve and the belt was of dull gold. The very sligint contrast of the two tones, the beauty of the soutache embroidery ana the perfection of line made this a most individual and ad- mirable model, though in point of general lne it had much in common with a host of undesirables. One sees less soutache embroiflery than vet it appears effectively on the most successful models. has & frock which has been various modl- it 18 of white of Tavernier fications. In one version | crepe, & simple bodice and skirt, the latter trimmed in a deep flounce of Valenclennes lace inset with Venetian motifs. This | flounce is welghted down by a wide border |of “antique” printed cotton—one might de- | scribe and identity by b fine white soutache, it as colo a cretonne of quaint deslgn ing—which almost its ng its design outlined by loses The soutache not but is massed only in outlines the de- scroll design here At first glance to tell just how One Inclines to- is almost effect Is tmpossible produced. soutache embroldery, but a closer scrutiny reveals the composition. Revers of the soutached cotton are on the which is largely of the lace, and bands of the trimming finish the short, wide peasant sleeves of crepe. Rank among the first Parisian makers was predicted for Tavernier when she first loomed upon the fashionable horizon and her models were practically unknown here. She has unquestionably arrived, but stll one comparatively few of her clever and original creations among the sees of Guimpe, collar and long sleeves were i FOULARD, | ons, | and “at {mported models. The crepe and cretonns model explain this stats of affairs his shoulders. he does not want us,' ambition 1s @ tremendously trade and she has won it frankly this spring that she would make me & froek or two for friendship's sake but that sha did not care for shop trade.’ The Bulgarian embroidery, of which the utache embroldered offe ggestion, I umed effectively on of the soft, heavy home spun woven linens which are smart, #o expensive and so hard These linens come in severnl offects. ing the weaves of the Engllsh woolens strips, chevron, basket and mixed weaves and some of the French dressmaking houses have exolustve weaves fn these lin so that one ean obtaln material to duplicate their linen models only through them. Several attractive imported men's models of this class seen in one shop had trim- importer of was asked the to He shrugged he sald ehte “Her privat %o extremely sbrain copy {ming of very heavy open mesh lnen lace. cuffs and In a Bul and about the neck mere touch on the garfan embroldery bright colors. For rather light blue in bright vellow blue. An oyster of bright red, green. Apropos of things homespun it may be noted that there are some imported tailor sults of wonderful Scotch homespuns woven on hand soft, 100se tuff which will wear and is of de lightful texture and coloring. The material sells as high as $ and § ard Black and white particularly of the always popular bid fair to rival dark blus serg a summer uniform. They at their best made up on severe tallored lines Smarter from a Parisian viewpoint the suits of striped black and white these often have a touch of color in collar, say a collar of heavy blue linen embroidered dered by a black satin on the belt was in deep heavy design and tnstance, a woft, dull Illnen was embroldered black, white and darker white linen had embrold- ery bright. blue, black looms unendingly woollens, check designs, as are when are and the red or in white and bor fold. Blue and white stripes are being made up after the | o, She told me | and three same fashion by the French tailors, | the stylish striped grays in two or 1 liked satin | tones are also we | Collars of black majority of | with black place of the satin, and other black satin is often added. On of durk blue satin ¢ tfs and the straight skirt op up one side to show black satin, Very are. used upo allored & King fmmin molre motii | good tail serge has black waisteoat, and all the n underskirt of wide black bratd |18 used upon some of the good-looking | dark blue sc trotting suits t by the fashionable A heavy, oged costun collar, e close ans way ned out taflors ded made sort, e sik of the an variety with a ¢ blue, both tul the #lik forming a plain deep band botton of skirt, this scending above the knees. The she bs3ing to fasten with a single big botton bar wide and at the walst line, is Ottoman and 18 untrimmed enormously wide collar below the waistline Otto beau mode! 18 up one new and succe on the the band coat, er at one entirely of the but has an whose points fall "he bodice s chiefly chiffon, with enough cloth to mark s belonging to the and all the, materials are In chiffon, silk and cloth costumne, one tone, of and | dult | In black silk finish tulle dotted In black another ¢ street The forms t of the skirt and runs up to the girdle on the sides, The rest of the skirt and the bodics are of the tulle. The coat of taffeta crosses in surplice fashion and cuts away again below a girdle. The wide open V front shows the full dodice front of tulle and the gulmpe of gold and white. Popular Fietie ¢ m So Glad to See You!" hat a Beautiful New Gown You and black suit silk botton H to Address This Magnificent Audience “I_Assure You It Will Not Be the Silght- est Tnconvenience.' “Although You Have Defeated Me I ceraly Congratulate You on Your “Why, You Don't Look a Day Old You Did Twenty Years Ago!" “I Shall Be Delighted to Have You Call."* “I Do So Enjoy Hearing You Sing!" “My Aftention Has Been Called."s-Chi- WNE Kipo FiTTING SILK GLOVES Fit like Fownes kid gloves because accurately made by experts from the finest silk obtainable. A All lengths, sizes and shades—including the new fashionable colors Paris Authorities: 2 Azalie, g Kaki, decreed by Capucine, Cythere, Ambre, Lesbos. Fownes Silk Gloves are a revelation to those who have thought it necessary to accept the ordinary kind. A re- velation in exquisite fit, texture and durability Accept no substitute. 50c, 75¢c, $1.00, Look for the name in the wrist. $1.50. Double tips, of course, and & Fownes Guarantee “It's & in every pair. Fowneo— that’s all you need to know ~ ta Style No. 908. 1 Spure. His long skt ping tolow bust line. neat lace and embroidery trim. ‘mnl lr.l 'ph.z pairs of suspender_wel you’ll notice the various illustrations of Kabo Corset styles, you’ll realize why Kabo Corsets are rec- ognized as the leaders in bringing out the ‘latest things. ‘ Correct in form, they are also the most com- fortable .and durable corsets made. We give you the broadest sort of guarantee of satis- faction "and protect your dealer in carrying it out. Ask to see our Kabo Maternity Supporter; and # you are stout you'll be interested in the Kabo Form Reducing Corset; it reduces the figure to graceful lines without uncomfortable binding. Kabo Corset Co. Chicago designed for the average ‘and moderately high back Ts made of batiste with Has 12%-inch [+ Healtrhi and Bearlnlfifs—rfiCf)fi;rieé BY MRS. MAE MARTYN C. F. D.; You say you do not like to toliow the new styles in hairdressing because youf halr is streaked with dif- ferent shades of color. These streaks are undoubtedly due to shampoooing with soap and water. I recommend canthrox in preference o Any other shampoo. It makes & rich and plentiful lather that thoroughly cleanses the scalp, removes dandruff, relieves itching and irritation and leaves ‘he halr soft, bright and flufty. This inexpensive and quick-dry- ing home shampoo is prepayed by dis- solving & teaspoonful of canthrox in a teacupful of hot water. Pour on the head a little at & time, using it as you would any other shampoo. Olivette: If you are offlicted with plmples, are thin and sallow, and suffer continuously from a “tired out” feeling, you need a good system tonic that will anse your blood, make your liver more nd bulld you up ‘and strengthen y Try this: solve half a teacup- ful of sugar and one ounce of kardene in half pint of alcobol and add enough boil- ing water to make a full quart of tonie. Take & tablespoonful before each meal bed time. You can get tho kar- dene and alcohol at any drug store. This old-fashioned home appetite and aids digestion. Take it and you soon will be stronger and free from pimples and blotel Alice: If_the joking of your sweet- heart embarrasses you, stop using face powder. The next time you to the drug siore get four ounces of SPUFMAX, dissolve it in half pint of hot water and add two teaspoonfuls of glycerine. This makes & fine complexion beautifier that will rid you of that “shiny,” greasy look and give your skin a clear, fresh and youthtul appearance. It will not shew or wub off llke powder—and lasts much long Appy ft also to your neck and forearms, rubbing gently until dry, It is fine to use when wearing the short sleeves and low necks that again will be the fashion this summer, Rachel: ‘When freely while comb immediate steps and hair to healthy condition. and falling bair are ca our halr comes out so Tng it you should take 1o restore your scal Dandruft by germa medy restores lost | ‘vhh:ll can bo destroyed by the use of & good quinine hair tonio made as follows: Get from your druggist one ounce of quinzoln, dissolve it in half pint of alco hiol, and add half pint of cold water. Rub this tonic into the scalp gently ever night for the first week. Then use ft twice & week, brushing the hair “thor- oughly each time. If anything will glve you a mew growth of hair, quinzoln Wil The "treatment {s invigoratlng and re- treshing and it keeps the halr soft and glossy, so that it is casily managed and can be put up in any style you wish Miss Nobody: Yes, you welgh about ten pounds more than a person of your height should. Try this to reduce your welght: Get from your druggist four ounces of parnotis and dissolve it in & pint of hot water. Take & teaspoonful of this harmless flesh reducer befors each meal. You will feel better when You are rid of that superfluous flesh. L. M.: You can help your “dead” and aull eyes, stop inflammation and do away With redness If you use an eye tonic made by dissolving one ounce of crystos In a pint of water, Drop one or two drops in ench oye whenever they are tired or feel weak. It will not smart or burn, TIts vegular use will make your eyes bright and sparkling. Crystos 1is also reconi- mended for granulated eyelids. It can be purchased at any first-class drug store. Anxlous: My dear girl, you exagger- ate the unsightiiness of ‘the blackheads you say you are afflicted with, They will disappear If you use faithfully a cream jelly made as follows: Get from your druggist one ounce of almozoin, put it in half pint of cold water and add two tea spoonfuls of glycerine, After stirring briskly, allow to stand one or two hours Massage jour face with this almozoin cream and it will thoroughly cleanse tiie pores. Dust and grime that soap & d water never touch will roll out and off the sl . This treatmedt tends to make large pores small and prevents the re- turn of blackheads. It clears the skin and keeps it smooth, soft and pliable. You can use almozoin as & face and euge cream just as freely as you wish, for it contains no oils or fats that wil cause & growth of supe uous I'\’llr i Read Mrs. Martyn's | Book, “Beauty, 46.00-—AdV, “My Friends, Tt Gives Me Great Ploasure 4 {19