Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 30, 1910, Page 23

HE winter semi-season in Parls s an important time, for it {s then that the astute individual may glean a number of Interesting items in regard to style, and also it is the time which may be sald to be the forerunner of what may be looked for in the spring. The fashion- able world is leaving for Nice, Monte Oarlo, and all the other resorts where dress is thy important affair of day, and for these are being designed novelties and charming costumes which will appear later In the different casinos and at fashion- able dinners, teas, garden parties, and the like. All the great establishments are showing some small novelty either in cut, material, or general style, and It s interesting to note the differences in these and It is also a matter of conjecture as to what may be lasting or the reverse. Paquin, for instance, is making full skirts and is showing gowns that are a distinct contrast to those seen in the early part of the geason. Some of the skirts look absurdly full and, in addition to the excess of material in them, they are tucked and more or less trimmed with flounces, rucl ribbons, and blas folds until the material is almost lost sight of in the amount of decoration. Beer on the contrary is making gowns closer and more clinging than ever, and unless the skirts are draped they are otherwise untrimmed. Worth for the moment seems to have dlscarded the elaboration of embroldery and gorgeousness of detall, and s going In for simpler effects and less noticeable combina- tlons. One thing this establishment is clinging to and that is the combinations of black and white, which they introduced at the first of the season and which they still are using in new materlals and slight difterences in style. Some of these gowns are among the most attractive seen and it s safe to predict that White with black will be one of the smart effects of the spring. L There is a decided change in sleeves, and the close, long coat sleeve efther for afternoon or evening tailored &0wns is no longer being made. Quite large sleeves, some of them tucked, others puffed at the elbows, and even the bell shaped sleeves of halt a dozen years ago are being seen and it is doubtful if.even a single #mall sleeve will appear on any spring or summer costume. Also the elbow sleeve which has not been in favor for several seasons is being used for after- noon dresses, and these are being trimmed with lace, falls of fringe, or ruffies of chiffon and embroldery, which give them a dressy and effective air. In the materials volles, taffetas, lightweight satins, & heavy quality of tussore are all taking the place of cloths, charmeuse, and the soft, clinging materlals that were shown at the openings. Taffeta gowns are particularly among the newest, and In this material the tendency 1s towards old . fashioned shades of soft and indefinite colors. There is also a revival of changeablo taffstas, and in these most and Wh Bla, beautiful colorings are to be sesn, of a quality much softer and more pliable than for many years. Gowng made of this material have a plcturesqud alr, for many of them are made short as to the skirts, surplice bodles, or old fashioned round necks, with drooping shoulders and full sleeves, either slightly flow- dng or gathered into quaint little wristbands of em- brofdery or net. Lace flounces trim many of these cos- tumes, or batiste on which is seen beautiful old em- broidery designs thin as cobweb and exquisite as to col- oring. It s certainly a period of revival, and any woman who is blessed with a well stocked cabinet fillad with lace and old embrolderies can utilize every scrap of her precious belongings T saw several gowns lately at Zimmerman's which were intended for southern wear, and which wers charming and as quaint and simple as they could be made, In one the material was of softest taffeta in the changeable effect, the colors being pale dull blue and The skirt just reached the floor and in was gathered Into the walstband. It was trimmed with two flounces fully elghteen inches in depth and of old lace yellow in tone and thin &hd sheer, These were ®mmamre BOs Seen n Pany THE OMAHA SUNDAY BER: JANUARY 80, 1910, Chiffon. Cloth. Co. \Black and Wh put on quite full and & space of six inches appeared between the two. At the head of each flounce was & festoon effect in ribbon, pale blue being the shale chosen, and at regular intervals this was tled in #mall bows with ends several inches in length. L The bodice was out quite round, the sleeves falling Off the shoulders after the manner of the 1830 cos- tumes. Around the neck appeared the same festoons of ribbon, and these were brought down over the upper part of the sleeves with the same finish of smart little bo The sleeves themselves were quite large and were brought in to a high cuft which had for its finish a lace frill. The yoke was of the same lace and had on it slight touches of silver em- broidery. It was a gown intended to be worn for afternoons on the Riviera, and would make a deligh'- ful little model for restaurant dinners, theaters, or afternoon receptions for early spring. Another equally good gown was heavier quality than last year and much more open and silky. The color was « faint shade of ashes of roses, and the lining, which was of llberty satin, was of & deep flame color, glving a most wonderful tone to velling of a Sturne in Dark /lauve, Trimmea in Gold Embxrioidery. A Novel Effect ixs Tyicked Sleeves Ovex Lace Undersleeves. Model #rom Francis ite Hat foorn Carliexre. 4% HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSM R YasHyons < Bs Maws- Bawal AKER. & = Evening GowsN of Fale Iose Fynky) With Clusters of Roses Chiffon Troixnzned \‘ jand Foliage.Belt of (old Gauze. Gold Embroidery, \NAUBANY AND DUGDALE at the JVeck rove, rrom / R Y o7 the costume. The skirt was cut with the effect of an overakirt, the lower part being severely plain and the upper part full. The only finlsh was a narrow hem at the top of which was a tiny ribbon put on quite plainly. The bodice was made to match the overskirt, that 1 it was lald in plaits and drawn iInto a wide walst- band made of some sort of queer embroidery, in which appeared several colors and some gold and silver threads. A stunning plastron of the same filled in most of the front, and around the slightly rounde1 neck was a narrow band of gold. In spite of fits simplicity the gown had a barbaric appearance, due entirely to its coloriugs, which were unusual. The evening gowns, which early in the season showed a tendency to all and everything that was gorgeous and wonderful, are now becoming decidedly simpler, and it must be confessed that to the average beholder they are improved by the change. L Chiffons any crépe de chines are the favorite fabries, and combined with these are all kinds of embrold- eries, ribbons, and flowers. Cloth of gold or sllver and jetted effects seem to have disappeared, or if not that, they are being kept in the background for the present while all the lighter welght stuffs take their innings. Worth, who supposedly only uses the richest of goods, has for a fortnight past been showing nothing but chiffon costumes made in various styles, some so little trimmed that they are absolutely girlish. Most of them are double skirted, as In fact are a large majority of the newest frocks, which may or may not be an indication of the future, One charming model that I saw in this great estab- lishment had for its underskirt black chiffon finished with & broad hem, and above that a single tuck with gold thread. Above this was draped a materfal more llke a tissue than a chiffon, the color being deep apple green. “There were regular panniers on the hips, and these were still further accentuated by being lined with stiff material like tarleton. The bedics, which was pointed back and front, was a combina- tion of black and green, but it was partly covered by & nutiike trimming of gold threads and green bead: whigh was arranged in bertha form, henging in a deep point in front and a shorter one in the back. The belt was narrow and was also pointed, and wa of some gold metal which clearly defined the walst. Another gown, in Worth's tavorite combination of R g Cobalt Blue Sexrge Tailor Coat and Skant Made With, a Ferll Skt a.nd?.Decp Tezcks . Model #rom j’aguin., black and white, had the latter color in chiffon made over a petticoat of white. The latter was untrimmed, but finishing the edge of the overskirt was a little border of gold bugles which gave it the necessary welght. The upper skirt was fairly short in front, fell well over the hem of the underskirt in the back, and had a great deal of fullness at the walst. Tho belt was an elaborate affalr of gold bugles, embrola- ery, and satin, apd well shaped, wide in the back, narrow at the sides and with a long dip polnt In tront, LI There is no question but that the belt in many and various forms is coming back into favor, for not only is it being shown on gowns of which It forms a part, but it is also to be seen In many of the smartest @hops as a separate article of apparel. The belts of some of the evening gowns are things of great beauty, belng wwondrous affairs of jewels, gold thread, and embrojdery, all cunningly wrought into odd and pro- nounced shapes. Bo important have these become that in some cases they constitute the sole trimming of the frock, and for this reason anything that is orige inal and striking In deslgn iy almed at. Belts of gold galloon, embroldered and decorated with beads or with the still more fashionable bugles in gold and silver, are many of them most beau- titul, particularly when worn with soft tinted chiffon lace or net gowns. Many of these have an extra plece, either apron shape with rounded edges or two long straight ribbonUke falls which finish them in front and which add much to thelr beauty and effectiveness. The ends of these are usually fringed, sometimes to the depth of half a yard or more, and for this beads and bugles in assorted sizes are employed. Few of the smartest belts are finished with buckl but in place there are to be seen strappings and lacings of metal cords fitted with slender springs which hold closely to the figure and which help to- ward the long walsted lines which are at present the mode