Subscribers enjoy higher page view limit, downloads, and exclusive features.
THE OMAHA : DECEMBER_19,__1909. (T ENING CLOTHES Sormnbrerd ‘o’{ Seal Frown wsh Trimmed With Enormous White Ospre>. FROM ODETTE MARTING ARIS.—(Speclal - Correspondence.]—At - last the hoped for and blessed moment has arrived when fashions here have declared themseives, and one need no longer sit on the fence and wail, fearful of taking a plunge to either side. . From now on ‘until the next great semi-annual exposition of styles, it 18 smooth salling in_Paris and one may safely place her orders for costumes of any kind with the thoroughly comfortable feeling that for a fewymonths at least these will be strictly in the mod Of course there are always small detours to be made in the matter of hats, of dressing the hair, of scarfs, ruches, and of a hundred gnd one little acces- sories that make a woman chic or\otherwise, but those are only a aquestion of keeping ‘one’s weather eye opened, or of haviug one's pocketbook sufficlently well filled to be able to buy the latest novelty as it makes its appearance. The beginning of the autumn races and the opening of the varlous smart theaters are the principal factofs that lead to the es(ablishment of the fashions, so tNat one must visit Longchamps, the Gymnase, the Rejane, and others to see what is really being worn. first one sees every concelvable style in the w tumes for the street, good. bad, but it>must be confessed weldom indifferent, and at the several theaters the va- rlety of other gowns that are new and charming is something quite stupendous. c D OOL eSS * For instance, at the Gymnase, which opened a few nights ago, Mme. Brandes, who 18 one of the best dressed women in Pa wore some beautiful toilets, v § any one of which would be delightful off the stage as 1 5 § CL R A Dinner Gown for Yowng Girlof Whate well as on. They were all distinguished by a certain 7 & XY, (8 Muslin de Soie, Cornbined With White simplicity, but it was of & kind that meant the richest : o 4 . e 7 A\ (4 Lace. Belt ard Trirmmmnings on Grsage of materials and the most renowned of couturiere / iy ¢ . 3 . 1 ¢ MN and Slceves of Gold. From MARTIAL KD ARVAND One evening gown was of supple satin entirely cov- i P # 3 o ered with a heavy tulle tunic in a network of pearls and i § s gold. It was finlshed with a heavy gold fringe, whi ¥ e A {5 A . g 0 0 . was graduated to the tunic, long in front and short in 4 £ SRS S B 4T s e .\).’A"ba.'f. ¢ ..’" the back, where it fell over the train » corsage was Y % . A (il - I N ? low and seemed to ed entirely of fringe and y i § 3 & \ 2T 3 sl exquisite lace, which was draped on the fc AN § 5 - s & 1 e W such A manner that there was no visib 2 B 9 <4 ‘With this gown Mme. Bramles wore on he which was dressed low, a cap of netted pearls finished at on side with a wonderful ornament from which sprang a Jeweled aigrette. Another gown was of a new shade of green. called “hanneton,” a sort of coppery color, the material Leing of silk gauze. The skirt of this was draped to form tuniec, which was absol 1y covered with mbroider fn fine and heavy silks There was a ‘ittie fine gold lace and full undersleeves of the samec coming from other anl tight gauze sleeves. From throat to hem the dress fitted her like a glove, and yet it did r in the least glve the impression of being unduly With this costum e wore one of the new mantles, which v st made their appearance which promise to he rage for all winter wi light shoulder cover is needed. It is a * iz‘mlc.«ll; like those worn by women In India, and which are to be found here now in various soft fabrics, satin, chiffon, and occasionally in silk finishel cashe mere. The one chosen by Mme. Brandes in “La Rampe was of satin, and it was bordered with sable, narrow across the lower edge and wide at the top. Her hat, 100, in this act was a novelty, a sombrero of velvet in the sam wusual shade as the gown, caught at one side with a stunning fantaisie, in which gold was the predominant tor One other costume of this actress must be mer tioned as being a perfect example of a conventional dinner gown. It f the shade known as rose Du barry, combinéd wi 1a, ‘the material be! catelle. 1t showed a skirt slightly gathered hips and draped a littlo at e side £ cloth of gold. The bodice was deep and back and stifly boned, and across over a chgmise £ folded whi the ik hp orilliant battons. T which reached the elbow. were treated In manner. A long string of diamonds to wh, tached 4 small vanity box set with the samc on was at gems, a ing clothes show less of ts and more of long, clinging lines than tie eginning of the Season. Whatdrapery there is 18 frequently in the form of long scarfs, whick held closely to the figure ang give one the air of r . ¥ ki 3 - classic elegance. These are arranged in various ways ‘ pr— Blue anao ite, 2 scording to the style of the individual, and whethe \ g’:?hn-;’pz: an‘;’fl"'fi’:gfigfi;fiifi; CearasscfGold * one 18 undm the reverse. Some are knotted just abeve New-Work &tudded With Coral 'and Large Cora heel at the back and have a finish of hanging ends o some porgeous ornament to hold them in place. There s a distinct charm to these loose looking draperies thie remainder of the costume and freque which one 18 bound to recognise and which gowps of they were put on as an after thought our last year's fancy did not possess. They are all (oo plain effect of the gown. ' Just the vaguely suggestive of the lines of the figure beneath | trimmings seem to have no e quality as the finer grades of libert lo ntioned material, t40, is among the firs or because 0 favorites for evening wear and has entirely taken same they are place of crépe de chines, ninons, and, to a certain ex they are so quee tent, of charmeuse.. This seasop’s oftering is brilliant and while they do not in the least hide it, they giv materials, the first place must n finish and pliable enough to render it amenable to a certain soft, plastic look that no sheath costume ever » brg for they are omnipresent and are made &0y style of gown. There has never been such a selec could. v ball and dinner dresses, into simp tion of colors, from those that are as pronounced and 8D ostumes for evening wear, and also into frocks vivid as can be imagined to those that are so subtle in The bodices, i0o, il many canes carry out the i tended for the ¢ or dressy afternoon use. They Shading that they are nameless. scart drapery, for on these the material is frequ are to be seen in multitudinous designs, big. little Next wound apd twisted In a manner that bafes descri; medium sised, and in a great many combinations nvariably first cholce for evening wear, come all the lLatest Modeof Coxf; and finished with long ends and loops in the back or colors. as well as self-toned effe While quite shades of bronze, dull gold, and green. Any of these Jhowing Qold Bana with stole shaped pleces in front b rieh, these new brocades arc not so unylelding as those o when combined with gold embroideries or the passe About the Head ana Other bodices, parUicularly those of brocade or satin, of years ago and they lend themselves to folds and menteries and trimmings of gold and gorgeous Persian Gold Foses Made of Lac, have a sort of culrass decoration made of embroidery, draperies which were impossible in those of older o colorings, make some of the most artietic costumes FANVE L PHOTO of network, or of any clinging stuff of gold These weaves. Many are almoet as supple as satin and have that have been seen. nsely smart, possibly because to wh which never loses its popularity and X