Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 18, 1903, Page 27

Fancy Runs Made in Dress MUST read over the rules and regulations of ”I!' Audubon so- siety,” sald a fashionable woman the other day, “‘or else thege ex- quisite feather hats and muffs will make me fall into temptation.” The feathered creations which the im- porters and milliners are showing are cer- tainly tempting. The beholder is inclined to forget how many breasts are required to make them, and can only exclaim at the beauty of color shading and the richness of effect. Hats of every shape and size are entirely made of feathers, soft, glossy and shading imperceptibly from (ne color to an- other. The muffs to match are quite as beautiful. Feather hats are one of the few d's tinctly new things which the season has brought forth. “We have had them other years,” may be objected. But not like these. “They will not be durable.”” Be wuty s always evanescent, and the feather hat will probably outlast its sister creations of ¢chiffon. A Frenchy pale blue and black feather hat has a low crown of alternate bands of the blue and black feathers, the shades melting into one another, The same ef- fect is repeated on the flat moderately wide brim, but it is faced with black feathers. The hat is intended to be worn well back from the face, and fit snugly over the hair in the back. On either side under the br.m at the back are soft pompons of pale blue feathers. The muff which matches the creation is more moderately sized than some of the huge fur pouches which fashion has de- creed correct. The muff part proper, of the shade of blue and black, is indeed small. But an effect of greater size is given by the wide feather ruffles or ilounces which edge it. These are solid Dblack feathers, Another feather hat is built in a toque shape, and the shadings run from white to slate. It is trimmed with a white bird with & fierce beak, which is pressed against the rolling brim on the left side. This hat is illusirative of the use of birds in millinery this winter. The birds are all pressed flatly to the hat, =0, as in the case of the feather hats, they seem to be bullt into the hat foundation. Often a single flat bird, with outstretched wings, covers the entire crown, but care must be taken that the tips of the wings do not protrude beyond the brim edge and thus mar the symmetry of the shape. This is one of the geason’s unwritten laws A hat of shirred panne velvet has the entire flat crown thus covered by a while owl. Another hat of pale green chenille has a flight of tiny white birds flattened In crescent shape across the crown Ostrich feathers have more than their usual popularity. The shaded plumes of the summer hats are more than rivaled by the winter creations. The color schemes have grown more daring. Fancy a hat of turquoise blue panne velvet, whose trim- ming is a huge ostrich feather which shades from a golden yellow through blue to green. On a white hat the plume shades from flame color to a deep cream A hat worn by a thcatrical star which has caused much comment has for its only trimming a white ostrich feather which en- circles the hat and then hangs down the back an incredible number of inches Her exampie would be followed by many women this fall, if they could find just such another feather. There is indeed a the- atrical tone about much of the carly winter millinery, though many of the more ex- treme models will undoubtedly be dropped as the season advances, In addition to the long plumes, small ostrich tips have wide vogue. The) al- ways dainty, even if they fail to give the startling effects which som: women de- mand. They often encircie the crown as with a soft shaded frill. A pure white hat of chenille has a fringe of tiny wlhite ostrich tips edging the brim. These tips furnish a soft background for the face. A Dblack velvet hat, which is in one of the season’s new ehapes, has a rather high straight crown The brim on the right side is flat and narrow, but at the left it widens suddenly so as to turn up in a great roll. The edge of the brim i« finished by folds of black satin, and the high crown is encircled by a band of wide black velvet ribbon tied in many loops under the turned-up brim But the main trimming of the hat is a cascade of small black ostrich plumes which is held in place by the turned-up brim. It starts from the edge of the crown in front and ex- tends over the hair in the back. As many as gight short plumes are used. These feather cascades are a great fea- ture in winter millinery They are especially pretty in shaded plumes “What will be the correct thing for theater wear this winter?”’ demanded one perplexed shopper, bewildered by the mul- tiplicity of styles, which had been pre- sented for her selection “It will be easier to say what you must not wear,” said the milliner. “The hat which is worn over the eyes will not be correct for theater wear But any of and she pointed to the dazzling pread out on tables and chairs. not only that the color effects of the season are startling, but also the shapes, There are hats oval, diamond shaped and pointed, bhats with lofty crowns and with crowns like shallow ba- sins, the renaissance of our grandmothers' styles, and the inventions of daring minds. They will all be worn, some by the many, some by the few, As to fabriecs, velvet and chenille vie for supremacy with the long-haired felts The felts are about routed in the field of dress hats The velvets, especially the panne velvets, afford such opportunities for intricacies of treatment that the IF'rench milliners cannot resist them. Nor can Americans who follow the dictates of the French milliner. So there are velvet hate pleated, shirred, folded and ruched in marvelous fashions. It is because the hat itself is a thing of Hats for Winter such intricate handwork that the trime mings are simple--a single plume, a flate tened hird or a velvet Low A hat of shirred white velvet has a high severe crown and a wide brim which (s raised by a bandesu in the front and bent slightly over the hair in the back. A piccas of rich orange-colored silk is folded stiMy around the crown, and in front a wxilt buckle of just the height of the (rown holds in place a snowy estrich plume A pale blue hat of panne velvet has a simflar shape as regards the brim, though the crown is much lower Two shirred rolls are laid across (1 * brim in front and caught in place at cither side by metal clasps studded with turquoises. The velvet rolls then spread out into flat loops and ends, which, however, do not extend be- yond the edge of the brim Lace hats and hats appliqued with lace will be largely worn, although they keem an ccho of summer glories. They are built in new shapes, however, and so are robbed of monotony. Many of the lace hats have the brim edged by bands of solid coler in velvet or chenille. Black and white (an thus be ‘combined with the usual good r sults A white lace hut whose brim rolls off the face has lace appliques ag well as luco foundation. The brim is effectively edgod by a two-inch band of black velvet ho underbrim lace appliques extend out over this. Almost the entire crown and upper brim are covered by a cluster of snowy ostrich plumes of graduated length Fhese pass across from right to left and curl gracefuily over the brim on the left side Another lace appligue hat has a sharply rolling brim of black chenille. An inch band of white panne velvet is inset o half inch from the edge. Over this is laid the lace applique, which extends partly ovep the white velvet and partly over the black chenille The same effect is repcated on the crown. The hat is raised by a wide bandcau on the left side, and a bluck ostrich plume droops over the hair HARRIET HAWLLY. Houschold Remedies for the Medicine Closet HE up-to-date architect when planning a bathroom 1is almost sure to make room for a medicine closet. It is high enough to be out of reach of childish hands, but low enough to be accessible to the busy housewife. In these days of telephones the medicine closet may seem a superfluity, but experi- ence teaches every mother that a judicious use of its contents may obviate too fre- quent calls for the doctor, and furnish the ounce of prevention which {s worth a pound of cure, If there are children in the house do not, on any account, fail to have on hand a bottle of syrup or wine of ipecac When symptoms of croup are apparent, give the child teasg or half-teaspoonful doses of ipecae, according to its age, until vomit- ing is induced, and breathing is no longer ditticult. A bottle of camphor, well corked, will ba found useful for many purposes. A head- ache is relieved by bathing the forchead with camphor. Toothache will yield to a bit of cotton turated with it, and pimples and blackheads will disappear if the af- fected parts are frequently bathed with this remedy. Alcohol is useful for bathing parts af- feceted by mneuralgia or rheumatism, and arnica is comforting for bruises, sprains and lumps of all sorts. Pure turpentine should be Kkept on hand for cuts and scratches, and all sorts of in- Fascinating APS are coming into vogue again. The average woman will take that statement with a grain of sall if she believes that any mod- ern mation is going to adopt a bit of muslin and lace for a head covering, no matter how becoming it may be, to denote that her frivolous days are aver and that she is settling down to domestic affairs, 3ut she need have no fear. The modern cap is thoroughly up-to-date It is so en- tirely modern that it is called a cap by concession only and is really a drapery of lace for the head. A New York woman who s considered one of the hest dr ed in the city is never seen in the morning without this little drapery of lace for the head. She is noted for a soft flowing style of costume Her morning robes are dainty aff of silk and lace falling in soft lines, and the pretty lace searf, which she always throw on over her head, and, upon oceasi ] loosely under her chin, is wonderfully coming The woman of today Nves in a strenuous life even if she has less to do with domestic affairs than her predessors. She has a late dinner and later entertainments following In the morning she is weary She takes her rolls and coffee in her own room, her hair is lightly pinned up over her head he- fore it is finally dressed for the day, and she finds a hit of lace to throw over it a convenience. Its sofiness is very becoming, juries when the flesh is torn. Before doing up the wound in gauze pour on a little tur- pentine, and it will heal much more rapidly. A package of ordinary cooking soda (saleratus) should find a place in the medi- cine closet, for many are the uses to which it can be put. A handful placed in the hot water in which the feet are bathed will do much to relieve tired or blistered and ach- ing feet. A teaspoonful in half a g of cold water will relieve a sick stomuch and a little of the soda, used instead of tooth powder, will keep the teeth free from tar- tar and beautifully white. BEvery trace of the soda should be well rinsed off the teeth each time it is used. A generous handful of soda in the bath tub will remove the odor of perspiration besides strengthening and toning the system. It will also remove blackheads, if the parts affected are first moistened and then covered with as much of the soda as will stick. Leave it on the face until the skin begins to smart and then remove by gently bathing the face with warm water and drying it with a bit of soft old linen. A pinch of soda will often relieve tooth- ache, and when applied to the sting or bite of an Insect will allay the pain or itching and heal the slight wound. When glycerine is used for chapped hands and lips be sure to dilute it before applying, especially for the tender skin of a child. Clear glycerine is much too harsh for most skins and proves injurious rather than healing. If there is no rose water at hand crdinary soft water will answer the pur- poge, and equal quantities of glycerine and water should be used. During cold weather, and, indeed, at any &cason, one should never wash the face with soap and water just before going out. If the face is really soiled, rub it all over thorough!y with cold cream, and then re- meve the cream with a soft cloth. Keep a Jar of the best cold cream at hand all the year around. At the first appearance of a cold sore apply cold cream, renewing the application from time to time till the cold sore disappears. A bottle of crude vaseline—that is the in, unscented kind—will be found efiica- cious when the children have a severe cold. TInternal doses of the vaseline, taken with sugar, will often prevent the develop- ment of a cage of croup, and both vaseline and glycerine, in teaspoonful doses, will heal a sore throat. Camphorated oil is useful for rubbing the chest and neck in case of a severe cold, A square of flannel, spread with the oil, should be worn over the chest when the patient is recovering from a severe sore throat. While ordinary sweet oil mixed with tur- pcntine is excellent for burns, it is well to keep a bottle of collodion at hand. This seems to reliecve the small burns, which make a child and even an adult so very nervous, more quickly than anything else, Relief is the important thing for these small burns, and the collodion forms a coat- ing over the skin which effectually shuts out all air. Keep the collodion in a dark Caps for Matronly Heads and it lightens the tired lines around her eyes. If she spends the morning in her room writing letters and looking over family ac- counts she still wears the bit of lace on her head. Her intimate friends, whom she thus receives, finds her never more attractive than in this morning ecstume. A soft head covering of white is so be- coming that it is unfortunate that Amer fcan women do not follow the example of the English women and wear them more often in public There is nothing prettier or more becoming than the English widow's cap. A melon-shaped eap of white lisse and tulie has a Marie Stuart styvle and is ef- fective The center is puffed and pointed front and back with soft folds on the out- side A veil of the white, where it joins the cap and flowing out soft and full well below the ws fully graceful. The hair in somethi gathered in close st, is delight- out in front lour effect on either side of the point of the cap in front, With the white bands at neck and wrists, contrasting with the heavy bands of erape on the gown, it makes a beautiful house costume of the ponm Older women in Eugland also w of lace and ribbon and they are being worn to some extent he There is occasonally a woman who believes in the dignity and grace of years, and for her the milliner prepares an old ladies’ cap. They can even ar ecaps be found ready-made in the shops. These are of pretty lace made in the form of a jabot, with loops of ribbon set on one side into the folds of the X The sweeping cap has also undergone a transformation. The old-fashioned sweep- ing cap, made of a sphere of cambric drawn up close arownd the cdge, still remains, but a pretty girl or nan who has housework to do n a dainty and be- coming cap of a colored bordered hindker chief. This may be large or small, accord- ing to the degree of service it is supposed to perform. To make a real head covering a large fancy handkerchief, such as may be bought for from 5 eents up, is used. This is first plaited in close along one side, to fit into the neck and to form the lower part of the cap Next, the side opposite is taken and the two corners brought together and the halves sewed overhand, a point being formed where they meet in the center. A little pleat is taken in the ecenter of the handkerchicf and the point tacked to this The effect now is hood-like, and it only re- mains to fit the cap. This is done by mak- ing litile p'eats around the sides and there is a pretty and becoming cap. A smaller handkerchief may be used One of a solid color lawn, pink or blue or lavender, lace edged, is pretty The top side of this should not have the edges sewed quite to the corners, and these are turned back in two little points, blue bottle away from the light, and well corked with a rabber stopper. No medicine closet should be without its Jar of carbolated gauze for use next to wounds, and its roll of absorbent cotton, which has uses (50 numerous to mention, After applying socothing oils to a severe burn, cover with cotton to shut out the air, A bit of absorbent cotton is used instead of a powder puff for baby, since it can be discarded after using once, and a fresh bunch used each time. Wrap a small piece around the point of an orange wood stick and dip it into the bleach when manicuring the nails. 1t is easler to reach under the cuticle with the cotton, and is not so apt to bruise the nai’, eausing the white spots to appear that distigure the nail, When the eyes are tired, saturate bits of absorbent cotton with witch hagel and lay them over the closed lide. Lie down for half an hour, and the « rested and brighter If any poisons are kept on hand, they should be turned into dark blue bottles and labeled plainly, with “poizon"” written in large letters at the top. Keep all poi- sons at one end of the closet, on the top- most shelf, and then keep the closet locked, 80 that no member of the family can use any of the contents without the knowledge of the house-mother. s will be strengthened and noticeably A skin of beauty is a joy forever, Di T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER oo ;fix" Removes Tan, e Freckien, Moth Paie ke Rush and Bkin Uis- H !g easq, and every < GV blemish on beauty, .2! &7 and defies detection, } o &/ It nas stood the test 't of ffty-five years, =,== and 15 0 harmless we taste it to be sure 1t Is properly made. Accept Do counterfolt of wimi- lar name Dr. L. A. Sayre waid to o iady of the Hhaute ton (a patieny) ‘A8 you ladlesg ’ will use them, 1 recommend GOURAUD'S CREAM'' as the least harmfui of ail the skin preparations.’” For sa wil drugglsty and fancy goods dealers in the Un Bleies wnd Hurope FERD. T, HOPKIAS, Prop'r. 87 Grest Jones St., N. Y. ?om/e Inuru Pure,Soft, White Skin , cures Eczema and Tetter, Abe solutely and loermancutly ? yemoves Blackheads, Frece 4 kles, Pimples, Rodnoss, - spots and Tan, Used wit Derma-Royale Boap & Pere foot skin ie lnsured, Sold by Druggiste, o2 way be ordored direct. m-oy.lo, 81 per botile, e patd, Derma-Roynle Soap, 235 centh, by mall, Soth in one package, $1.35, express pald, \Portraits and Testimonials sent on vequest, One Bottle FREE to Afim FHE DEBNA-HOYALS CO.