Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 18, 1903, Page 26

EW YORK, Oect. 13.—Merely to look upon the new styles in hair dressing is to convince the be- holder that fashions have reached a4 very ceremonlous stage. Not since (he days of recognized wigs have coiffure effects been more stately, and not since the m. ive chignon took its poufs and side curls to the storeroom of passe modes has 8o much false hair been worn. Indeed, it is the lightly thatched woman who is now the best off, for only meagerly dowered heads can lend themselves to the numberless transformations” employed. A transformation is an artificial plece of hair of any size, which may be put underneath or over the natural hair. If dalsposed outside, it is attached to a frag- ment of net which =0 nearly simulates the human scalp that it is difficult to dis- cover the subterfuge. If the hair at the top of the head is thin, a gelf-dividing and adaptable transformation may be used, which permits of a center or side parting or pomapdour effect. Again, the maid of meager glory will achieve her pompa- dour through the medium of a ‘“frame or through a long fringe with a cord fin- ish. Either of these are fastened across the top of the head from ear to ear, the natural hair going over the artificial, or the frame, which is a shell round comb and bundeau combined. I'or many heads the rat is all that is necessary to raise the pompadour to stylish heights, though many a maid will crepe or French her locks besides. This rufMing of the hair, which is done by combing it toward the roots, is injurious in the long run; but so many curative treat- ments are continually employed that, de- spite the rufMing, the heat of the false plece, and the deadly crimping iron, the heaith of the average head of hair is rather toward improvement than decline, Numberless are the expressions of the modish pompadour, whose main tendency Is rather to mount ut the middie of the head than to spread at the temples. But the long, loose puff thus raised has many phases, toppling over the forehead in what- ever way becoming to the wearer, and pro- ducing in numberless instances the coiffure now recognized as distinctive of the theat- rical show girl, Maids and matrons of more moderate tuste are content with a meditied topple, and since the unbroken puft is becoming to only the most classic features, light partings and lovelocks have come to glor- ity ethers. For every-day life and the high-necked street gown, there is not much scope for claborite colfiure effects. The majority of hats requiring a high dressing, a soft round knot flanked by round and side combs the color of the hair is most fre- quently seen. Shell slides hold up the loose hairs, and when the hat is removed nine times out of ten a black taffeta or velvet bow is revealed above the left side of the knot It is only with the evening costume of low cut that the set elegance of the present coiffure s fully displayed Then an im- pression is received of superbly rippled front locks, of back ones braided, puffed and curled and caressing the neck in ob- long or round knots, shining with care wnd cdorous with delicate scents. Some- times natural or artificlal flowers or rib- bon rosettes form part of the back ar- yement, these coming as near the ears as possible, When dressed higher a wired bow or osprey pompon may effect that aristocratic look which any stand-up ornament gives the head, and theose women accomplished in the art of elothes carefully consider its arrangement in the cut of the hodice. Heads properly dressed for evening fune- t is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion CHARMING PHASES OF THE NEW E VENING COIFFURE. tions have exactly the polished finish of the wax craniums in the coiffeur’'s window. Needless to say, their magnificence is often- est really due to this artist’'s skill, for not all amateur fingers can coax locks into the studied loveliness necessary. Dressed completely, the party-going girl awaits the coming of the prestidigitator of beauty, who begins proceedings by covering over the fineries of his client with a huge towel. Then, calling the woman's comb and brush to his ald, he begins, with his own bags and boxes open. The trans- formation may even be a toupet, a wig in the germ stage, but invisible and visible hairpins are soon about him, straight locks ripple, and presto, change! the charming vision rises from her chalr, delicately coaxes her eyebrows te a droop at the outer corners and says coolly: ‘Do you think I'm rouged enough for that effect?"” The cut of the bodice is not the only thing to be considered with a stylish hair arrangement. But think how times have changed, when woman dares admit she uses the boughten blush. Frills of Fashion Ermine is, also imitated in silk and is used for trimmings. Yokes and sleeves of evening gowns are made of gold net. Jet chains are relieved here and there with a small bead of gold. Fringes of other sorts, like chenille, wool, and silk, are in for a distinet revival. Moleskin and chinchilla are very success- fully imitated in a fine quality of plush. A new style of hand mirror shows one side ordinary glass and the other magnifying. Some of the large collars are hemmed with chenille and trimmed with lace of the same hue. Panne de chine is a new stuff, which lends itself to trimmings of tea gowns and to many other uses. A belt novelty is one of crushed leather with small medallions united by chains in imitation of metal girdles. Ermine is employed as a trimming for all descriptions of garments and is fre- quently mingled with mink and chinchilla, The Henri Deux hat, with pointed peak, high crown, and sharply turned up brim at the back, is greatly in favor just now. Spangled robes appear in brilliant color- ings such as red, blue and gold, the sequine being closely massed in Van Dyke effect, Becomingness is the first rule with re- gard to a veil, and for general wear the most becoming is a fine diamond-meshed net, without spots, Navy blue is a leading color and a re- lieving note is introduced in pipings, fac- ings, strappings and the machine stitching in fawn, ivory and white, Short coats and walstcoats of canvas, with thiek rool for linings, for the auto- e to be succeeded this year by ‘ined coats of corduroy, A heavy machine stitchery is being largely employed as decoration on the lat- est tailor mades of best repute. It is in the nature of an ordinary stitch worked with a very loose tension, and in close lines, A pink chiffon fancy bodice has a packet effect given it by means of heavy cords covered with the chiffon. This is a pale pink, and it is made up with only one thickness of the material over the lining, but the cords with the chiffon closely shirred deepen (o a rose tint, Some of the uew uffs are among the ugltest thing imaginable, but ihey have advantages. They are big, baglike affairs, a deep pouch forming the lower part, and if it could be used for that purpose large enough for a traveling bug.” The opening for the hands is not in the center of the side, but in the very top, where there are small round holes just large enough to ad- mit the hands, but no unnecessary cold alr, A handkerchief it utilized in an attract- fve way in making & set of narrow turnover collars and cuffs. The handkerchief has a narrow hem and is edged with lace. The collar is simply made of one side, inc luding two corners, of the handkerchief. These corners are used for the front or hack of the collar where the ends meet. The cuffs are ingenlously made. One of the corners forms «he center of each cuff, a littie box plait ln»inT taken in it to give it the proper straight lime to the edge, which fits ever the sleeve. With heads getting more and more pre- tentious in their dressing, it follows that costumes, too, must, in a measure, turn to stately effects. The influence of the days of puffed, curlted and powdered wigs are already felt in some evening frocks lately imported. Narrow silky ribbons and wreaths and garlands of small artificial flowers are employed upon such of these as are fashioned in diaphanous materials. With gowns in the stiff silks which are to be again much worn, satin ribbons will form the wreaths and garlands, whose courtly prettiness is much admired. An evening costume in pink and blue pompadour silk displays these ornamenta- tions in pale pink satin ribbon. The wreaths, which have the classic tying and short ends, are disposed upon a white silk and chiffon skirt apron and upon the bertha and cuffs of the sleeves. The back and side breadths of the skirt are very full and are made to stand out with a light interlining of erinoline. A similar stiffness s carried to the For and About Women Miss Olive Backus has Just closed by re ignation her continuous service of forty- three years as a teacher in the publie schools of Chicago. She is 70 years of age and is going to California to make her home there. She has taught 20,000 pupils, and an effort is being made to get as many of the survivors together as possible for a monster reception to her before her de- parture for the Pacific Coast. In an effort to organize in Paris a club for American girls and women Miss Nina Estabrook, publisher of the Paris World and a former Chicago girl, has been in Chi- cago for the past few days. It is her plan to establish in the French capital a club similar to the Empress club in London. If it is formed Miss Estabrook Intends it shall become the headquarters for Ameri- can women traveling in France. Miss Carro M. Clark of Boston has the distinction of being the only woman at the head of a book-publishing concern in Amer- ica. Se be’ieves thoroughly in the efficiency and ability of women and has proved her loyalty to her sex by putting women in po- siticns which generally are filled by men, Her bookkeeper is a young woman, her ad- vertising manager and literary adviser is a4 woman and even her shipping clerk is a woman, Bronson Howard, the dramatist, indig- nantly denies that New York women, out- side of the “i0," are addicted to drink, but declares that those of what has come to be known as ‘“‘the fast set” indulge to a de- plorable extent. Such women, however, are in his opinion ignored by refined person Mr. Howard says that stories are hear daily in New York of women who bec 16 more or less intoxicated at dinners and other functions, Miss Gabriel'e Townsend Stewart was ud- mitted to practice in the supreme court, New York, Tuesday by the justices of the i on motion of Walter 8, said to be the first woman yer admitted on motion after practice in ancther state Miss Stewart was ad- mitted to the Ohio bar in 19% and practiced in Cleveland, where she achieved promi- nence by freeing o client indicted for burg- lary by invoking an old common law doc- trine. In consequence of this case the legis- lature passed a special act to correct the law, Mrs. O'Keefe of Savannah, though never herself a queen, it appears certain, to enjoy substantial advantages from the elr- cumstance that her late hushand, upon be- ing shipwrecked on a Seuth Sea savage islund, set up as king of Yap and took to himse'f a dusky consort in the person of the Queen of Dollyboy Island, The king of Yap exhibited as a royal personage a canny, albeit an adventurous and pleasure- leving character. He went into trade—his island subjects being free from prejudices prevailing in Europe—bu'lt a fleet of schooners, made money and put it carefully away in the English bank at Hong Keng, His widow-—she of Savannah—is now con- soled for her husband's long absence and untimely demise by the prospect of a for- tune of $500,000 loving'y devised her by the deceased king. ‘This is not a plot for a comic cpera; it is a plain recital of a news story of the day. bedice, whose cut is below the shoulders, and whose foundation begins with white silk, over which chiffon is placed. Upon these is put a double bias of the pompa- dour silk, the two forming a Jacket and bertha look. At the front of the waist a puff of the plain white shows, and it is girdled high with panne velvet in a delie cate azure. The sleeves are short puffs with elbow falls of kilted chiffon. A second gown, which is almost too fairy-like for either verbal description or pictorial illustration, is of white point d’esprit spangled with silver and trimmed with pink ribbon with silver reflections, artificial flowers and French lace. This is disposed in a skirt border between bands of the ribbon, which, at the hips, in hori- zontal strips, shapes a pointed yoke. Be- tween this and the skirt border the pink wreaths, tied and garlanded together with ribbon and lace, are placed above a row of separate scattered ones. A deep bertha of the spangled esprit, decked as is the skirt, and a girdle of pink louisine are the features of the low sleeveless bodice, For gowns in these reminiscent styleg there are details which accentuate their courtly suggestion—satin and kid slippers, whose high heels, which are even oce o sionally red; stockings which may show stiff floral vases, and all the tiny fans of the Louis epochs. The embroidery, opan work or lace of the stockings is confined to the front of the leg, side trimmings are apt to disfigure t t member, Tiny oval mirrors frequently enhanee feminine appreciation of the fans and their spangled and painted glories are framed in mother of pearl. A choice design In any of these Louis fans costs anywhere from $:5 to $150 Many are even dearer in price, but quite reason- able imitations arc seen in silk, gauze, and even paper, whieh are nishingly pretty, Conventional evening fashions are, of course, everywhere seen, hut the taste of the fastidious s running more and more toward revivale. Anything which cre: an effect quaint to the majority is se upon. I wonder,” said an old-fashioned soul the other day, “whether a return to anclent statelincss will effect an improve- ment in our manners. With shepherds pip- ing to their mistr ipon fans, with red silke and coiffures wigs, the women of today certainly Is, garlands, i should acquire of that deportment which made women of the long ago such breakers of hearts. Since the tailor-made #irl was born, with her mannish stride, Stiff lines and hearty ‘ha! ha!’ the softe nesses of American womankind have all but disappeared An indescribabie number of textiles, ine troducing gilt and silver motives, appear among the new evening materials. These, when sufliciently simple, permit of very girlish effects, for al the lines of fashion strive for the narrow hips and delicate shouldérs of youth., Many of the most de- lightful of the French gowns, in fact, are 80 treated at these pointe as to exaggerate their slimness, and with the really thin maiden a er doll look is the result. However, is usually a very charming paper doll, and when the flouncing bottom of her outside skirt is lifted it is seen that the elahorate shaping of the petticoat flounces have much to do with its set A new petticoat with splendid “stick out” qualities at the bottom has a plain shaped flounce bordered with bias. Cut at the top in deep shallows that form a garland line, his is hung over three narrow frills, two edging the widest. At the top of the petti- coat a new method of cutting achieves a closely fitting look without the discom- fort of the erdinary snug fit MARY DEAN.