Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 11, 1903, Page 27

Dainty Dancing Frocks for the Undeveloped Bud O THE girl who is not vet out the private dancing class is an all important institution, It is her peep at the forbidden social pleasures of her elders As the memory of the joys of the informal sum- mer hop dies away, her interest in the win- ter function and the frocks designed to grace it grows. At the ufternoon clusses the most charming simplicity reigns. The belle of years tomorrow must he content with mus- ling and mulls, lawns and Swisses. But she has no need to sigh for the pompadour silks and the embroidered sating of the season’s debutantes Her sheer ruffings are indeseribably dainty, and though it is not permissible for her to show more than her round throat, her arms are often gloveless and she has no train to annoy her If she has been careful many of her summer frocks may do duty for the win- ter dancing class. The styles in party frocks show little change, nor is there much of a variation in material Wash fabrics promise to be worn all winter for evening functions, as well as for shirt- waists, though her new winter dancing frocks will probably be fashioned from some soft, clinging silk and wool mixture, which readily lends itself to either uc- cordion pleating or shirring Shirring is always becoming to the child- . ish figure, and it wears better than ac- cordion pleating. A pale pink albatross ts pretty for the 14-yvear-old girl The square neck gives a refreshing glimpse of the girlish throat, and is outlined, with & two-inch band of heavy cream lace in- sertion The shallow yoke, both front and back, is formed of many rows of shirring Below this the material falls full in the front, blousing over the skirt band, but fitted more smooth'y in the back The elbow sleeves have a deep cap of shirring The fullness falls over the tight bands of the lace insertion. The skirt 1s shirred into the band, and finished by a deep hem. It is further trimmed by two four-inch bands of shirring. Cream col- ored mull forms the wide lace edged sash, while big French hair bows of cream col- orcd ribbon add the last dainty touch. Scarlet is a becoming color for the brunette. Pale blue and white are always pretty, blue and pink are a Frenchy eom- bination, while baby blue with dull green ribhors give a very esthetic effect. 8ilk is not tabooed, though simpler fab- rics are more advisable. As one mother said: “It is @ shame to make a girl wait for the delight of a first silk dress until she is too old to show enthusiasm.” So many a girl has silk dancing dresses and rustles to her heart's content. She may even attain to the dignity of silk fringe as a dress trimming. Nile green crepe de chine makes a charming dancing (rock for the 15-year-old miss. The square cut neck is finished by a pointed ecollar of hand made lace, which gives the effect of a yoke. The waist is accordion pleated, hut the pleating is so stretched as to give a lined effect. Nar- row rows of shirring divide the elbow sleeves into puffings, and at the elbaw comes a double frill of silk and lace. The under skirt of Nile green silk is finished by a deep accordion pleated ruffle. The over skirt of the crepe de chine is slightly gradusted in length from frent to back, and is edged by two rows of fancy silk braid of exactly the same shade. But its triking feature is the deep silk fringe which edges it. This is dved to mateh exactly the crepe and gives a grace- ful effect. A single width of Nile green ribbon forms a bel, which is fastened at the left side, At this point a piece of the fringe starts, and falls in graceful drap/ngs down to the bottem eof the skirt fringe. A big Alsatian bow ef the green ribbon is perched on the top ef the head, contrasting charmingly with the goMen curls and rosy cheeks of the wearer, A the evening dancing elisses and par- ties the girl just verging on young woman- hood can be allowed her first low-necked frocks. There is nothing extreme about them, however, and they are more apt to be quaint than startling. Now that the flowered muslins, the full skirts, and the graceful fichus of our grandmothers are again in style, the dancing class girl seems to have stepped out of the old picture, A fascinating silk muslin is to be worn by & bronze-haired nymph of 17. The mousseline is flowered in dull blues and greens on a4 cream ground. The bedice is cut quite low and rounded. It is simplicity itself, quite full and blousing slightly in both front and back. The enly trimming is a four-inch band of shirring which finishes the neck und forms the cap to the sleeves. This band is slashed so as to admit a run- ning of wide changeable green and blue Louisine ribbon, which is tied in the froat in a fat bow. The ribbon is six inches wide. The clbow sleeves are quite full and give the effect of being draped over the tight lining The full skirt is shirred inte the band. It comes to within four inches of the floor and is simply trimmed around the bottem by four overlapping ruffles. These are only three inches deep, and are set on rather skimpingly The sash of the changeable ribhon is drawn out se wide as to give the effect of a girdle, tapering down in the front to fasten by an old-fashioned gilt buckle. At each side. from underneath the sash, a piece of ribbon starts and extends down to the heading of the first ruffle, where it is tinished off by a flut bow The wearer of this quaint gown parts her hair in the middle and lets it ripple down over her ears, ending (n curls at the nape of the neck, where it i« tied with a bow of the changeable rihbon Wreaths of small roses are to be a favor- ite with hair decbration this winter, both with the young girl and her older sister Such a wreath will crown the head of a girl whose frock is bath quaint and charm- ing. It is of pale blue crepe, trimmed with white chiffon. embroidered with pink roses The shirred pointed bedice is cut low, but neck and throat are veiled by a yvoke and collar of the embroidered chiffon. Folds of the chiffon drape the top of the bodice and a chiffon ruching outlines the bust line and extends acruss the shirred caps of the sieeves. Below this runs a wide insertion of the embroidered chiffon. The rull skirt is shirred into the waist band. Triple rows of chiffon ruching give a fluffy effect to the bottom of the skirt. Six inches above this runs an elaborate serpentine insertion of the embroidered chiffon, latticed and cdged by ruching. As the bodice fits snugly over the skirt, no sash is required. Dotted Swiss is a favorite material for the dancing frock, while point desprit is even prettier when made over colored silk. A peoint d'esorit made over white taffeta Is o miracte of bhand tucking and lace in- sertion. The skirt has a slight train and flares widely around the bottom. It is (rimmed to a height of ten inches above the hem by lace insertion and groups of tucking and finished by a three-inch wide ruffle of lace. Further up the tucking and luce insertion is used in an even wider band to give a graduated founce effect The waist has a deep rounded yoke of lace insertion, finished by a six-inch wide luce founce. Below this it is tucked hori- zontally and blouses over a pointed French wiist line. The elbow sleeves are trimmed with alternate lace insertion and tucking and finished by double rufMes of wide lace. The sash is of the point d'esprit, finished oft with lace, and is tied at the left side, Another dainty point d'esprit frock has the wide skirt flounce and the Jlow neck headed by a pink rose ribbon. Tiny nose- gays of roses ornament the sash ends and A rose gurland is =et on the blonde head of the M-year-old wearer, Fancy dre s parties are an exefting fea- ture of the dancing class around holiday time. Old costume books are ransacked and dressmakers are hesieged for something novel and hecoming to grace on these oc- casions. Any of the foreign peasant cos- tumes make pretty models. Perhaps the girl is lueky enough to possess a real one, brought from across seas by some touring relative. If not, they are easily designed and executed A shorc full skirt of soft wool, a velvet bodice worn over a full under slip of sitk or musiin, a gay kerchie!f with cap and apron to match, and the costume is complete HARRIET HAWLEY, Indian Finery for Wall Decoraticn ACH succeeding season witnesses E i new impetus in the fad for dec orating rooms with Indian orna- ” :’ ments, weapons and utensils of — use and beauty Nearly every thing Indian is considered decorative by the person affected with the craze for collecting objects made by the American aborigines, The most innocuous looking individual will frighten her hest friend nearly into fits by ushering her into a room from whose walls Indian medicine masks grin or scowl grotesquely, Nor are these always inno cent of a scalplock taken in ways best left to the imagination, The fad for Indian decorations hegan in sumptuous log cabins in mountain resorts, where splendidly colored blankets of great thickness and infinite warmth furnish vi- vid contrast to the rich bark-covered walls and polished floors. In these camps a Win- nebago curtain drapes an ample doorway, an Iroquois blanket stains the wall with brilliant eolor, and one of Navajo weave conceals a couch. No effort is made to con- fine Indian decorations to objects made by any one tribal family. A pair of Apache bead moccasins hangs next to a Winnebago pipe bag, whose rich head and leather or- namentation contrasts, in turn, with a Cheoectaw waste basket, an Aztec clay water Jar and a magnificent Haida hat or basket and an Eskimo totem pole from Alaska. To Americans, ignorant for the most part of Indian signs and superstitions, this jum- ble of Indian decorative value of Indian works of art on the Pacific slope, or in the luxurious summer cabins of millionaires in the Adirondacks, have brought their newly acquired tastes for ornamental wooden pipes, bead jackets and head ornaments, gorgeous bead and leather regalia and pic- turesque accountrements of war and (he chase, back with them to city walls. They have made Indian shrines of their “dens,” their halls and their smoking rooms. This fancy for Indian decorations has Frills of Fashion Initial sash pins represent a recent fad in jewelry, The latest bracelets are supplied with a coin holder. Fine white dnll beaver felts of the Cava lier type are also favored. Heavy laces and colored laces are more fashionable than fine laces, Among fanciful foibles in the decorative world buttons are in much request, A novel bhutton is of dark wood, inlaid Sheraton fashion with light satinwood, Made-up ties of glace silk in the shape of the old French abbe’s tie are much worn. Ermine will be very much worn and mini- ver with ermine tails introduced on to the skin. A combination striped silk plaid and spots is very smart for trimming tailor made gowns, French lawn, real lace or clear, fine mousseline de sole are utilized for these abbe ties. A supple satin in marine blue, black and brown, with large panne spots, is favored for matrous, All the sason's skirts are round, define the figure at the top and are extravagantly full at the buse, It is predicted that white velvet will have considerable vogue during the coming win- ter for bridal gowns, Ivory shirt waist scts are new. The colors are black and white and the des gns are unigque and handsome To keep delicately tinted tea or ball gowns clean around the edges, put three graduated ruches umnder the hem. 1f the big black picture hat is too trying, soften the extreme cdge of the brim by binding it with an inch thick tulle ruching Favorite hair ornameuts are wreathe of convolvuli and leaves in bhlack and silyer a Louis XVI bow, or large butterfly. For evening wraps the new zibeline and plush cloths in white huve the preference, n‘llhunlh sfiver gray is « much admired tint The fancy for white and black spots has spread to feather boas, an example being a white one on which were large spots, both in black chenille and feathers, The emerald is the favorite gem of the moment. It is worn in single drop form and encased in a cage of fine diamonds suspended from a platinum chain Among the trimmings for dressy taflor- mades are Oriental embroideries, fur, heaid and ecrochet insertions and medallions, the latter round, square and oval worked in colored flax thread or silks and wool growa to such an extent that whereas, two or three years ago, these attractive object could only be picked up here and there, every shop of importance now has a de partment set aside for the sale of Indian wares. Shops devoted (o them exclusively are lberally patronized. During the rush season, when women swarm into the shops to buy whatever strikes the eye by way of a useful present for their loved ones, the Indian department ol one shop employs an Indian clerk Around him the women gather, refusing th service of other clerks, and hanging upon hig explanations of the curiosities he hand les, No American shirt could be said to have decorative qualities upon anything but a clothesline in a picture; but a Sioux shirt, on the contrary, with its exquisitely worked bead designs upon finely dressed buckskin, is highly decorative. Apache decorations, wrought in beads of many colors, for wear on a chief's back or his squaw's waist, add much to the beauty of a wall, Everyone who pretends to collect Indian ornaments has peace pipes. leather pieces painted with Indian heads, birch bark and basket umbreila and golfstick holders, gaily adorned quivers of many kinds, mats, bowls and baskets. But few possess whole otter skins, decorated down the sides with five round looking glasses as large as the palm of the hand; whele buckskin suits magni- ficently embroidered in beads, or the rare and exquisite work of the Haida Indians of the Puaeific coast of Alaska. Navajo buskets, and those made by the sixty odd tribes of Indians of the south- west, are immensely popular, even when their cost runs over $00. The old ones are practically indestructible. One New York matron who secured sev- eral rare water baskets and jars from Cali fornia planned to give her friemds a greut surprise at an afterncon function by serv For and About Women Two members of the Chicago Woman's club have volunteered to serve as inspeec- tors. They will help the city health lb'_j partment in its inspection of “baby farms or public purseries. Women have been steadily advancing as factors in the workaday world, and in 190 188 per cent of all the females over 10 years old and 143 per cent of all were en- gaged in useful occupations. An Irish woman, Miss Douglass, has been appointed to the post of horticultural lec- turer by the county council of Louth, the first woman appointed to such a post in Ireland, and over men competlitors, Through the generosity of Mrs. Collis P. Huntington her invalld servant, Miss Lizaie Coonetl, wiill the remainder of her life in her native lund, Ireland, supported as long as she lives by her American mis- tress. The twelfth census shows that there were seheduled in the United States, in 19, 6685 women under the heading, “Messengers gnd errand and office boys.” and there were 5% of these female “‘messenger boys” credited to Chicago. The German empress has expressed the desire that for the future all pieces in- tended for representation at the court the- ater shall be submitted to her first, so that nothing may he yed of doubtful morality or likely to ek the audience, Her majesty’ reserves the right of vetoing any play she may chose. Worth, the famous Paris arbiter of fash- ion for women, says that no dressmaker has ever dreamed of reviving such an unaesthetic costume the erinoline. He a0 declares that severa! years to come, in his opinion, tailor made dresses for morning wear and soft, clinging robes for the evening will he the correct vogus Newport has been staggered by the re port that Mrs. Heity Green intends to rent or purchase a mansion in that summer resort of fashion, and that she means (o g0 in for social distinetion. The new move, show.d it be undertaken, will doubt- less be in the interest of Mrs. (Green's clever daughter, Miss Sylvia, who is ered- ited with sectul ambition, having had mere or less experience of fashiouable life Anotker dlamond stealing mystery has developed in Newport, a soclety woman (name withheld) having reported the loss of a jewel while going from her cottage te a dinner party During the summer Jewel: have Been lost by the ladies of the cotlage colony aggregatiog $5000, and only ome ornament n found. that ing to Mrs. Pembroke Jones, valued at SIS0, Mrs. John R. Drexel, so far as known, Is (he largest loser, her diamond pearl pendant being valued at $15000 ing punch in them. When the guests hegan (o arrive the beautiful baskets with their legends woven in rich shades of brown, were ostentatiously displayed and greatly admired. When the punch was brought forth and poured into them it immediately distributed itself upon everything within reach, greatly to the chagrin of the dis- appointed hosiess. She had not comsidered that her baskets had not been put to their natural uses for many years and required special treatment (o make them witer- tght once more IPlat, bright-hued Alaskan mats and 1 hadlow, richly wrought grain bowls of the Pueblos and Navajos, together with queer fun decorations, are particularly ad- mired as wall ornaments, Most of the large bead-embroidered shirts and quivers are used as bags, into which are dropped golfsticks, fishing tackle and other such articles, unless they are considersd (00 decorative for practical uses, Crossed upon the walls may be found brilliantly stained Mexican hand-carved sticks and feather-adorned arrows, and faney lttle bark paddles and pipes of many lengths and colors, Less decorative, but perhaps more inter- esting, are the implements of warfare— tomahawks and hatchets; heavy, uneven balls of stone held firmly in rawhide straps and attached 10 plaited rawhide handles; stone-headed arrows and strangely wrought and carved sticks whose former uses were as implements of death, 'I'hese grim reminders of frontier massacres afford striking contrast to the gay hues in a feather head-dress, or an exquisite Win- nebago bead regalia once worn upon the head with its long bead bands hanging down the sides of the face wnd abeut the chest. Upon the tables of a properly furnished Indian room are to be found gracefully shaped and wonderfully tinted pieces of Indian pottery, On the mantel shell the pottery shares honmors with rare tofems of greater or less ugliness, and with marvel- lously shaped and carved horn spoons, which are as rare as they are beautiful. Some of these spoons are so large that the beholder wonders whether the curver measured their size by that of his appe- tite, and at the same time he understands whence comes the olden VOYURe pet oath: "By the great horn spoon,”’ A shin of beauty is a joy forever. T. FELIX GOURALD'S ORIENTAR FIEL\ OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER i§§= HRemeves Tan, Plmples, e Freckiss, Moth Patches, P - py Rash and Skin Dis- - - - I = Blemish l 2 and defies dutectio o :hn...lhol l i sad fw we laste . 1141 i ” you ladl -4 use them, recanmend CGOURAUD'S CREAM™ a3 e least harmful of all the skin preparetions.’’ Far sale by ‘3 druggists snd fancy goods dealers la the United Gtetes and Kurope. FERD. F. HOPFKINS, Prop's. ¥ Great Jomes St.. N. T.