Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 11, 1903, Page 26

What is Going On in EW YORK, Oct. 9. -A subtle point in all artistic costuming now- adays b= the way that tints and tones are blended together. Some soft shudes of gray are just a k of the cyelash off from one another, and when combined one melts into another #0 temderly that the impression of scaming I# jost. These delicate clowd-like hues ure called mole grays, and they are admirably expressed in French cloth Cortumes in such materials often run to shaped biuses, left raw edged and shading from the palest to the deepest tint. Deep silk fringes will embellish a few of the imported cloth com- tumes, and these will be entirely in one tWwne. To ceunt the shades of magenia which fashion is now potting forth would be a thankiess task, for their number is leglon Some (be Dame has plainly unearthed from her gurret of dead modes, and a few of the roses of the newer tints have the senti- mental alr of having faded In her cedar chests, Pinging from grayish purples, petunia reds and fuchia mauves, these strangely artificial hues have a singuiar fascination for wemen of cheice tasies. When they come o emsay them, however, their arder often oswls, for it is not every womnan whe can wear these new magentas, though the majority may. Singuiar to say, they are especialy the privilege of the “wmouse- colored woman.” pale (ypes and bpeutral colovings geing splendidly with them. A royal hue for the auburn-haired and peach-complexioned dame is indigo blee, whose jewel-like tint is seen in gauses s veilings of a watchliess delicacy. indige tilk veile. embreidersd in a design of nutural myesolis, compoases an exguisite house teilette for a young matron. The embromery is introduced in panels at the hottom ef the traived skirt. and forms the puffs of the sleeves and the cutlining band of the ent-out neck. The arrangessent of the threat of this gown s ene of its charming features. The bodice shaping a shaliow V, around the bare throat will be warm a hand of the myosolic esnbroldery, fastening at the front with leops of indige velvet and a sapphire slide. This is another old styvie revived, for velwet and ribbon Lands sbout the bare throut are coguetties of the ‘s stulen then, teo, frem grevious generations n fashion, as in everything else, there is nothing sew under the san: it merely goes revolvimg with modifications and lmpmove- ments here and Chere, and by and by It comes hack to first principles. Villon has writien a “Balled to Dead Tadies™ and Vernen Lee wished to write one to “Dead Tunes.” so why not a “Bal- lad to Dead Modes™ with a glimpse of spotled resebud stk somewhere, & wave of faded satin, and a whiff of some perfume whose name has been lost? When in the years to come. will fashion return 1o the blouse bodice of prcsent fashion plates as being adorably euhancing to the female form divine Malike most stvies which admit of exapmeration, it has resisted all tendencles in this direction. and W now In the stage of girfish simplcity ELEGANT HOUSE EFFECTS FOR MAIDS AND MATRONS which marked its presentation to the world. The pouching puff which for a while dis- figurcd its front has disappeared, and with it has gone the very ‘drooping girdle, which now only the siontest women dare to wear The waistline of the approved douse bodice drops only stightly at the irent, and many a youthful looking waist puffs slightly over it all around. OGue frooxk with this juvenile treatment sports likewise the tiny frifls accorded youth this many & day. Composed of pure white mounseline de soie, silk embroidery and French tace, this house téllotte has been designed for one of this year's debutantes. The slightly trained skirl is made very full with two wide insertions of the lace, 10 which the frills of emiwwidered mousseline are applied. The decorations of the bodive, which fastens litlle girl fashion at the back, are done in the same way, the frifls encircling the bottoms ef the puffed slceves, ealurging them very much at this point. The whole effect is wne of droeping grace, and the gown real- izes that maildenly simplicity striven fer by fashion in her best feats. The new woman is not w0 be allowed to grow old—-if the good Dame can help it; and if she dees, it i=s her own faull, for fashion's closets are full of tricks and un- guents 10 keep her young. Apropose of umgoents, remember that reuge is no lomger a crime, and that a dash of It will redeem many a biliows oomn- plexion from dowaright despairs However, it mest be applied with & cunning finger, for the rouge which is patently rouge is of course, a fallure, and for this reaison grease pa‘mts are better than the dry sorts. Madds whoe know the reps of makeup sleal the mecrets of footlight beauties, wie see that their paints and powders match their compdexions. For dark skins the decper veds ave used, the rouge put on with the fingess and blended carcfully at the edges with the skin. A preperly “painted™ beauty must seemn to wear the blush of sature and the calico red patches that the Jmartintic apgly are 1he only sine of the professton. A touch of brown or blue cosmetic—also & grease paint, but in penell form—will enhance dull eyes, while a black note in the costume will do wonders for neutral types. Weomen who, to the unknowing, manage to appear lovely despite physical defects, owe much 1o the art of dress, A scrap of black velvet near the faeve is the redeem- ing reseurve of many an indifferent com- plexion, while figures none too blessed take on many graces with truins and fluttering sleeves, The number of fashion™ new sleeve models are only equalled by the touches 0l black she everywhere employs. A su- perb reception gown of ivory drap souples Is adormed with Mexican lace insertions and black velvet ribbon. 'This is employed only on the bodice whose waist lne is al- mosti entirely of girlish roundness, A black and white effect which produces an jron-gray appearance wi'l be relieved by a dash of brilliant color. But if the gown is white, the black note is distinct and restrained in magnitude, whether in belt, vest or rosette form, being, as the word in indicates, merely & “‘tounch.” But the smallest seed fashion sows by the way. side ix done with intention, and the harvest is only bhghted if that intention is re venled, As o Parisian artist was wont 10 Eay, A womau's cestume should be an impression, something you can't pick to pleces, though no maker who ever achieved greatness was ever so woelully celebrated in frills and rosettes French makers of lesser prominence and more geuuine artistic feeling than this great man-milliner ever possessed are re- sponsible for the long, loose coats now in the market For a brief space these use- ful and comfortable garments were threat- ened with extinetion because of velgar ex- aggeration But wow the models are just long enough, just loeose encagh, and sufi- ciendy plain or trimmwed, as the case may need, Neat traveling or rainy-day coats on the ulster order are made of shower proof tweeds, checked or striped on ene side and plain on the other. These are uswally half fitting, with slecves flowing or puffed and velvel collar and wim- mings. A long coat which presents stunning poss sibilities for evening wear is a loose sacqu@ of plain cloth with white satin or lace face ings. Such models may be in black, white or color, though if colored the attendang gown is supposed to rank in the same famiiy of hues. Upon the facings of the front many ornamental galoons, braide and embroideries are employed, and more than one smart coat will display an undersgleeve effect, Chenille fringes, such as were worn in the days of the civil war, are again to the fore, and some magnificent evening coats are made entirely of them. Over a gros grain or moeire silk foundation a second coat of silk muslin on lace net is hung, te which the deep fringes are applied in rows that stop at the shoulders. There a single row of the fringe over a flounce of lace, muslin or net, at the bottom of a rich yoke of some sort, will create the look of a cape, while another at the elbow of the sleeves contributes to the graceful fall now neces- sary for these picturesque details. An opera cdat made in this style was of ivery white chenille picked delicately with black. At a distance this resulted in a look of baby ermime, but nearly nothing could have been moie fairy-Hke than the combination of black and white and the solid fringe and fitmy lace. With such models for their disposal, the Incky women who have inherited old laces amnd fringes can put them to good use. In the matter of different patterns of trim- ming, fashion allows much leeway, and, provided they are all dyved the same color, three sorts of fringe may be used for one coat A coquettish long coat of black net and inch-wide fringe suggested a way to em- ploy the narrower morts. A deep shirred flounce of the net trimmed the bottom of the coat, and at the edge of this were five rows of the fringe put close together. The cape collar and bottoms of the flowing sleceves were treated in the same way. MARY DEAN. No Automobiles for Him ‘T never did ride in one er dese automo- biles,” said Brother Dickey, *“en what's mae', T ain’t gwine ter. T wuz bo'n in hol- lerin’ distunce er de ox team, en though hit go slow, ef you only starts alrly enough you'll git de cane grindin' en never miss de train. ! never did hear er any oxens runnin’ away wid folks; kase it takes 'em half a day ter make up dey minds ter go en de yuther half ter wish dey hadn't neves started.”--Allanta Constitution,