Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 4, 1903, Page 12

. 12 THE OMAHA DAILY BEE SUNDAY, JANUARY 4 BE: BR= FASHIONS on MIDWINTER. Best of the Barly Seavon Retained, NEW YORK, Jan. 2 month when one looks f yles Are January is mot a | )t new styles, but Just now winter fashions take a second start with variations on established effects. Modes which soemed perfect enough in the beginning bloom with unexpected | *touches,” and these, with their novelty and becomingness, reveal the fact that im- provements can always be made. Nowhere 18 this more pronounced than with evening clothes, which grow daily more surprising, numberless new motives showing in dinner bodices, especially. Inverited originally for purposes of econ- omy, the odd dinner walst has been made ‘legitimate by smart approval, and with plain velvet, silk and cloth skirts for ac- companiment, they are now worn by many stylish women. The fad, however, still has its cconomical side, for, it some of the walsts are very splendid, others are simple enough, and with a single black skirt three will make the evening wardrobe seem lux- urlously lavish. Perhaps the best skirt for all-round even- ing use is one of black silk point d'esprit, which fashionable textile black ribbon vel vet trims prettily. The velvet and silk skirts worn with odd walsts are usually made very plain, and with a white bodice | of any sort, a white cloth skirt is consid- ered the lagt notch of elegance. | As to the walsts themselves, lowness of cut and picturesqueness of effect are their sallent features. Their sleeves are elab- orately graceful in line, always fitting the top-arm very tightly and dropping in great pufts at the wrist, or flowing in flounces at the elbow. With these limitations as to length—for few really short sleeves are seen—the models take to unnumbered kinks for varlety. Charming Bodices. Three charming bodices, recently turned out by a fashionable drcssmaker for dinner use, display effective details. Nile green gauze, spangled with sequins, in a metallic shade of biue, composes one. The long, transparent sleeves hang in the prevailing puff, and they are finished at the wrist with shaped flounces of white | gauze eaged with lace, a unique bertha band about the low-cut neck introducing these materfals in diamonds covered by a sequined netting. But tinsel pendeloques DAINTY EVENING FROCK OF WHITE GROS GRAIN AND FRENCH LACE. nish tho lower points of the diamonds and | mingle with a lace and gauze jabot at the | tront, | Even more unique as to combination of materials and contrast of color is the soc- ond waist. Black novelty net, black velvet ribbon, white and rose-colored silk are the materlals used, the silk, cut in peinted flounces, shaping the sleeves alone. These, hangiog in a fall balf way down the arm at | the back and above the elbow at the front, | wre topped by cap effect made by the lace | band which surrounds the low cut neck. | At the front this band runs up in a straight strip to the stock of lace and velvet, worn | around the bar» throat; for, with the ex- | ception of this trifling protection, the neck | 18 exposed. The lower purtion of the waist 18 of the black net over white chiffon and | silk, the velvet ribbon simulating a sus pender effect at the side fronts. trimmings for this complicated creation are | rose-colored silk cord, used on the aleev and some black velvet appliques employed on the lace yoke. A bolero jacket is outlined with black Chantilly lace on the third bedice, whose neck eut s & shallow V. Plain white chit- fon and white striped with black are the | other materials mainly used, the last mate- | rial being plain for the deep sleeve flounces and tucked for the yoke and tops of sleeves. Black velvet ties these graceful details at the middle arm, and deep falls of plain white chiffon show under the outside ones, which are edged with a scalloping band of the Chantilly. Finally, there is a shoulder yoke of white embroidered with black, ant & jabot ornamented with lace ovals. Below the black jacket all the bodice Is pure white. Simplicity In Evening Gows A simplicity which contrasts enorwmously { elty wool. | house styles, on similar | | but one method seen had certainly the merit of extreme draperies. The lace materials in many ta put ways, newness. It also suggested facile ideas for the woman who can make her own | clothes and who loves loveliness without great expenditure. A French model in ivory white gros grain silk was the almost girlishly simple gown which displayed this treatment. Three narrow silk frills over others of chiffon trimmed the bottom of the trained skirt, the back of which was covered by a wid tabbed sash of thin white lace. This was caught to the skirt breadths, & bolero effect in the lace on the silk and chiffon bodice giving a talled-coat look. The lace em- ployed was an Inexpensive allover sort, but, of course, only the French would think of using it in this way. Any arrangement of lace which imitates a Jacket Is popular, and the longer the fall of the postillion, the better. Seldom is a bodice seen without some drop at the back, and since the hat “talls” are predicted soon to pass, it looks as if we were conmsoling ourselves Ju this way. Gowns for the House. Negligees do not usually come under the low-neck head, but all of one's collar bones show in some of the present house things. Long boudoir gowns and short cof- | tee and tea jackets are taking to this one | time immodesty, with the result that the fair oné who receives the morning or after- noon ecaller is always the better looking. For, however charming high effects may be, & low-cut is vastly more becoming to nine women out of ten; and if the tenth woman cannot bare her throat, thin lace yokes and muslin guimpes will simulate it to her benefit. Fur and lace figure on many of the hand- some house clothes in combination with the most diaphanous gauzes. A dainty little coffee jacket, cut out at the meck, is of these three materials, Canton gauze in a deep shade of marigold yellow composing the main part of the garment. The model 1s very loose, a full skirt flowing under a pointed bolero of the pure white lace. The bolero is bordered with an edge of sable and tied at the bust with a flat velvet bow. Its snug sleeves, which are pointed at the bottom, fall short of the elbow, below which are long puff undersleeves of the gatze. In such pretty frivolities and with the throat encircled by a short meck chain of some sort, one‘sees the presiding hostesses of many afternoon functions. A look of delicate festivity is achieved by the bared neck, and if the jacket is all of lace, as it frequently is, and the skirt of velvet, the getup - sometimes seems splendid. A beautiful lace used on elaborate even- ing walsts and these semi-dress things as well, 1s made of a vast, round cord. As soft In effect as chenille, this cord weaves always a very open pattern, through which several layers of chiffon over silk provides a rich background. Whole bodices made In this way are seen in black and white over white and deep cream over color, but the best results show a more discreet use of the lace. The body of tite walst may be covered with it, the woven plece falling short of the collar line to display chiffon and gauze yokes exquisitely needleworked. With this the sleeves may be entirely of the chiffon or gauze, with perhaps one rich application of the cord lace, or deep shoulder caps of it. Gown Trimmings. Negligees—strictly speaking, the loose garments in which fair woman takes the best of her home comforts—are both semi- | decollette anl very high at the throat. Many a wrapper of fine cashmere or nov- elty wool displays marvels in hand stitch- ery, delicate ribbon trimmings and har- monlous combinations of color. Checked ribbon, in apple green and black, decked one smart gown of pale pink nov- The ribbon was manipulated to form pointed bands, joined with fagotting, and shaped an entire bolero which set upon the wide-sleeved garment as if it were a separate detall. Flowered, striped and spotted ribbons, the last sort in black and white, are pretty garnishings for wool wrappers, whose deep sailor collars may also show a touch of lace. Sllk balls and tassels, In the same shade as the ribbon, disposed at the bottom of the bolero or ending tie-strings, are fre- quently seen. But pretty as It is, all this flummery loses its charm before certain severely plain worn herc and there by women of elegant pretensions. One of these is a sort of empire wrapper made of a courso soft wool in ivory white. The limp skirt and puff sleeves are side kilted, anc below (the round embreidered yoke hangs a deep worsted fringe entirely covering the short body. Black velvet, cut bias, forms a girdle and side bow, the same material | tion. in arrow ribbon tylng the sleeves at the wrist, Nothing s more beautiful for the house than white, and such classic styles, even Additional | though suggesting & nightgown, lond grice to slight figures. MARY DEAN. MIDWINTER WEDDINGS, Correct Styles for Church and NEW YORK, Jan. 2.—Weddings are the enly social functions whore Dame Fashion finds her iconoclastic prosress balked by { the powers of tradition and sentiment. In | the ball room she may supplant the stately minuet by ragtime twosteps and the mu- sicale of old drawing room days may give | place to polite vaudeville, but weddings will be weddings to the end of (he chapter. With a delicate touch she may alter d | rations and other trifiing details, but in many of the more Important poluts, the * ide of 1903 goes back two or three gene- raclons for precedent, as well as for the { family bridal vell. Happy s the bride whom the sun shines Ceremontes in Hone. with this intricate beauty is seen la some of the evening gowns, which are frequently composed of only two textures. For etance, if the frock is of si'k, flowered, striped or plain, the deccration is only chiffon or a very delicate and Inexpensive quality of lace. The chiffen is used in kilted skirt frills, for eashes, the onds of which arc doubled und gathered Into rosettes at tho bottom, and for bodice A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER Dl. T. FELIX GOURALD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER 587, Sactests > 1! 1l , | recom-. JOURATD S CREAM" 55 the et ful of all the skin preparations. 'or um’ all dru “:ll.- ;flx faney guods deal Srs in the U. § wad Buro HOFKL 8. Pr on and who also is enveloped in the veil that her mother and her grandmother wore. | It may be a trifie yellow with age, but it | will reek with lavender or rose petal cdors |and lend a distinction not to be secured | from the latest importaticn in real lace. | terial employed. The ancestral veil is bound to occasion comment and rouse envy in the hearts of | | prospective brides, whoso grandmothers | were not thoughtful enough to band down the accessory of thelr wedding frocks. Green and white are unquestionably the | correct colors for the midwinter welGing. | | Indeed, this is a white winter in all sorts | of decorations, a fact upon which Interested ipuuu may be congratulated, for no other | were natural. Artificlal plants are et in Christmas tree holders and are cheaper and much easter to handle. House Decorations. In a house wedding few palms are em- ployed, as every inch of floor space is needed. Laurel or southern smilax is used effectively and roses and ~arnations are less cumbersome than chrysanthemums The deccrations for a house wedding should | be lighter than for a church functlon, and | they reflect more accurately the bride and her mother. A very beautiful effect was attained at a | recent house wedding where the decora- tions were In the inevitable green and white. A broad staircase in the square hall, which was in full view of the guests assembled in the drawing room, was| wreathed in smilax, caught with white rosebuds. Down this came the procession, headed by six young girls in the simplest of white frocks of mousellaine de soie, car- rying lilies of the valley and maiden halt fern. They sang the bridal chorus from Lohengrin, and formed an aisle at the foot of the stairs through which the rest of the bridal party passed into the drawing room. The well-trained but girlish voices sounded the keynote for the entire function, which was marked by an clegant simplicity which | can be attained only in one’s own home. | It was at this same wedding that the lit- tle flower girl carried lilies of the valley in a pale green basket of exquisite work- | manship, and the bride's cake was dis tributed in weo boxes of silver and white | brocade, tied with silver cord, The matron of honor is still seen at church weddings, but she is apt to be too stately a figure for the simpler house func- | In fact, unless a house is truly palatial in size and appointments the bridal party should be small. The length of church | the taste of‘ asles lends ftself admirably to a retinue | of pretty girls and broad shouldered men, | but the same number of people make the | average drawing room look small and cramped. Wedding Dresres. In the matter of wedding dresses there | is no happy medium. REither you are much | berufiled and befrilled, or you are severely | dress sult will do for the groom. He re- celves as much attention from his taiior as the bride from her modiste. The tailor 1s apt to think this is one occasion of a man's life when he ls the cynosure of many critical female eyes and he forthwith introduces the small details which distin- guish this year's evening sult from last season's. A suit recently sent home by avenue tallor showed several innovations in the finishing. The stripe down the side of the trousers was of a tightly woven silk brald in a distinct pattern and very different from the absolutely plain effect of last year. The braid which finished the top of the walstcoat was irregular in its weave, like a coarse double-cdged saw, and very narrow and very flat, and visible only upon close examination. The same pattern appeared on the buttons, and the coat had a deep and clearly defined cuff a Fifth i I A single spray of lilles of the valley, or a very small rosebud, is nsed for the groom's buttonhole. The bride's bouquet ls still of the shower type, each blossom being ticd to a narrow ribbon. White roses and llies of the valley are the favorite combi- nation, although those who are ready to pay 75 cents to $2 a blossom may select white orchids. For the going-away gown the new tailored effects are chosen. This means tailored lines in the cutting, but consider- able elaboration in the trimming. Even lace 18 introduced in such a costume and is not considered incongruous, no matter how heavy the fabric. VERY MUCH LIKE EVE. Josephine Dodge Daskam Astonishes the Pllgrim Mothers. Miss Josephine Dodge Daskam, the au- thoress, astonished the members of the Pil- grim Mothers’ society in New York re- | cently when she expressed her views on “The Girls of the Future.” “The young girl of the future,” she sald, “I hope may find no greater responsibi ties, no wider paths, no more difficulties than the girl of the present has. Many women who are most valiantly anxious to gain their rights have always forgotten one thing—that the party of the first part, our brothers, are today where they we e In the was obliged 10 leave as soon as she had finished speaking. Mrs. Lillle Deveraus | Blake, president of the New York Legis- lative league, who presided, said: | “The speaker is a successful writer, as you all know, and she gets the same for her books as men do. If she were a school teacher or an employe under eivil service at Washington, perhape she would think differently.” For and About Women. Miss Ielen Miller Gould is a volunteer fireman, having been elected an honorary | member of the hose company at Roxbury, Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxle has presented | Cornell university with a )ife-size bust, her own work, of ra_Cornell, founder of Cornell university. The gift is made on the condition that the figure be transferred | to bronza. | Governor Crane of Boston has appolnted a member of the Massachusetts rd of Education, to fill the va- caused by the death of Mrs. Alice caney Freeman Palmer. Half a century ago Mrs. American authoress, wrot: about Albert Edward, prince of Wales, now King Edward of England: “He {3 a yellow- haired laddie, very like his mother. Fanny and I waved and nodded to him as he passed and he openly winked his bo?’llh eye at us, for Fanny, with her yellow curls and wild waving, looked rather rowdy and, the poor Httle prince wanted some un."” Following the lead of Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish, ultra fashionable New York women are taking to sitting in theater oxes with thelr backs (o the stage. Mrs, Fish orlgi- nated this fad a few evenings ago, hardly looking toward the footlights even, muc less attending to the play, and keeping up an animated but subdued conversation with three friends. Another fad of the hour among New Yorkers s to abbreviate “Thank vou" until it sounds exactly as though the person were saving 'kew. A nervous woman who realizes her lack of repose wns injuring her heaith and dis- turbing he friends determined to oyercome a condition that was described as “to ner- vous to sit stlll a minute.” She realized that if she had some occupation that would reauire her to sit still for a certain length of time she would be likely to overcome her habit of being constantly on the move. she decided to pose for an {llustrator, two hours a day being devoted to this tas) with rests in between, and the result wi exceedingly beneficial ‘as a nerve and rest cure. Not every one 18 likely 10 be in de- mand as a model for an illustrator, but the same result might be obtained by nervous woman holding a pose for twen minutes or so in her own room and keep- ing regularly at the work. Aleott, the the following 1v of Fashion. Fringe is extensively used for trimming evening dresses. Steel and silver trimmings are more In evidence this year than gold An exceedingly dainty pendant is in pansy form, cut out of one plece of opal, with a COFFEE COAT AND NEGLIGEES. Either you are enveloped in clouds | plain. of tulle and lace, or you wear a satin or silk, which literally stands alone and Is And & high necked frock made accordingly | no matter what the ma- | | you must wear, A recent bride who rebelled on this one point and introduced a surplice effect said it was the on> cloud In an otherwise brilllant wedding day sky. Every woman who came up to wish her joy fixed a dis concerting gaze on that V-shaped neck | Pearls are the preferred jewels for the | bride’s ornaments, and they are also intro- | duced in the passementrie used in trim- ming the dress. The new drops (r pend- color scheme Is at once so stmple and ef- | ants, formed of seed pearls, are used ex- | fective. If It be a church wedding, white | tensively in combination with satin and flowers harmonize most correctly with the | peau de sole. | dignified surroundings, and if the ccrvmany{ Despite the efforts of modistes to intro- 1s at home, they prove decorative with any | duce molre as a wedding dress fabric. it turnishings. | has not attained any popularity. You must For church weddings cbrysanthemums | take your choice between the sheen of salin make the best showing, smaller blossoms | or the flutter of chiffon. being dwarfed by thelr surroundings. In| For house weddings mousselaine de sole large churches waere the altar is banked | and point d'esprit hold thoir own for maid with palms, florists are resorting with | of honor and flower giri. For church cere- great success to the artificial plants. At | monies heavier goods are employed, broad- St. Barthelomew's, the mi}llonaires’ church, | cloth for the bride’s 11aids and albatross tn New York City, a florist recently em |or similar soft fabrics for the wee maid ployed artificlal cocoanut palms which | who carries *he flowers. For the latter lm-eud up to the ceiling and were banked | styles are very simple when the heavier n by smaller varietigs. The palms near- | textures are employed. t the chancel and around the cholr stalls | It is a mistake to think (hat just any beginning; they have always had the same advantages, the same responsibilities, the same difficulties, and, fortunately, they have the training to meet them. The girl has all of these things—and 758 extra tasks. And her back Is no stronger and her shoul- ders are just as small as they ever were. 1 do not think there is much difference be- | tween the girl of today and Eve “The girl of the future will be definitely obliged to choose between her ever-present privileges and her rights were Lo ask me, ] would advise her to hang on to her privileges and let her rights go.” The silence that followed that remark was relieved by the laughter caused by Miss Daskam's next remark, that “if you can't get your vote, you can always get your voter, and you can Influence him in his vote." Two things, Miss Daskam sald, she re- garded as absolutely mecessary in an en- tirely satlsfactory girl, and these things, she said, were precisely the same in the furthest island of the Pacific and in & high school In Massachusetts. These were that the girl must be good and she wmust be charming. Ard, if anybody | dlamond center and suspended from & platinum chain Square-cut _emeralds. surmounted by | small brilllants, are among the novelties in ear rings. White, pale blue most fashionable | evening wear | Siender platinum neck chains, set with | | the and old pink are for colors this season uaintly-shaped jewels, represent a new feature In gem work Dressy waishs are fashioned from white mohalr and trimmed with narrow white tin ribbon or sold braid Three baroque pearls in white lend an ex- tra touch of embellishment to a lovely stock of soft silk In pale pink | Black aigrettes for the halr are tipped | with dlamonds and exceedingly beautiful are t scintillating ornaments. A wing-shaped beit buckle of blue enamel with & greenish cast s decorated with the head and tail feathers of a peacock One of the extreme noveltles in evening er is a siipper of green satin, with side insertion of patent leather and green satin heels. The coral rose has been revived and in its delicate pink prettiness it is now found adorning some long brooches and topping stickpins. Of the many chains that have made their Miss Daskam, becauso of an engagement, | SWANst,s “s-akop ”»” cuREs 'RHEUMATIS CEWANSON'S “5-0ROPE* is care for this disease. It makes no bo severe the case may be, “§ if used directed will give quick relief and effect a per~ manent cure. Rheumatism is caused by am acid poison which accumulates in the system, settling in the joints, nerves or muscles, and causing the most intense pain. It is a blood disease and can only be cured by cleansing the blood of its impurities. No liniment can ever cure rheumatism, ;lv.hmx(h l“ lhha right kind is used it will stop the pains for the time baing. Ewanson's YS.DROPE” i both an iater- nal and external remedy. Applied externally it will prevent those horrible pains with which a rheumatic victim suffers. Taken internally it will make a permanent cure of the disease by going directly to the seat of the trouble and removing the cause. “5-DROPS* purifies the blood by dissolving all poisonons matter and removing it from the system. This is the only correct method of treating this disease, and the only one whereby instant relief is given and a complete curs obtained. &-DROPS " s the only remedy that will thoronghly and per- manently eure Rheumatism, Lumbago, Sciat ica and Neuralgia. FRED SMITH, Alemblo, Mich,, writes: "I sent to Mt. Pleasant after a bottle of “S<DROPS™ think- {ng. of course, It was only anotber dollar wasted. Well suffice to «ay 1 was treated by two of our best local phvsicians, and had taken patent medicines gadore without beneflt. Icommenced taking our “8.DROPS" with one foot in & chair where I heid it about three weeks: could scarcely pus t to the floor because of the intense pain. Now with one bottle, hardly gone. 1 am out st work on my farm happy as s lark without a pain in my bods. God bless your medicine is all Ican say." A. K. REEVES, Elm Grove, Ohio, writes; “I will write you g tew lines to let you know I am well. My muscular Rhoumatism is all gone after taking ynur"s-meS" for thirty days, Teaunot recommend “8-DROPS" 100 highly. “5-DROPS’’ NEVER FAILS TO CURE Rhoumatism, Kidnoy Trouble, Neuralgia, La Grippe, Oolds, QOoughs, Bronchitis, Lumbago, Sciatica, Gout, Asthma, Qatarrh, Nervousness, Backache, Dyspepsia, Indigestion, Oroup, Nervous and Neuralgic Headache, Hoart Weakness, Paralysis, Creeping Numbness, Sloepicssnoss, Eczema, Sorofula and Blood Diseases. All that is required to keep in perfect health is to have the disease germs destroyed, the blood purified and the nerves and muscles restored to normal condition. That is what */5-DROPS" does, and that is the reason why it will give immediate relief and" cure so many different diseases. A'test of “5-DROPS" will prove all that we claim, Test “5-DROPS” Free A trial bottle will be mailed free of charge to every reader of this paper u request. Cutout the coupon and send to us with your name and address, Write ¢ NOTICE. FREE other injurions drugs. cou P..ON is not obtainable in your locality order direct from us and we will send it pre- paid on receipt of price, $1.00 per bottle, | st sut ihis evupen and send Large Size Bottle (300 Doscs $1.00.) For | Yo Avanson iheumatic Cure “'5-DROPS"* is entirely alcohol, Sale by Druggists. Co. Ask your druggist for the Swansen Pill, & for constipation, Price 28 cts. ure THE UNION PACIFIC s 7722 Ove;’[and R oute’’ AND IS THE ONLY DIRECT LINE TO ALL PRINCIPAL WESTERN POINTS. 33 %% Via Omaha THE UNION PACIFIC IS 204 miles shorter to . Salt Lake City 278 miles shorter to . San Francisco: 278 miles shorter to . . Los A s 358 miles shorterto . . . Por’“ d 12 hours quicker to Salt Lake City 16 hours quicker to San Francisco 16 hours quicker to . . . Los Angele 16 hours quickerto . . . . .. Portland appearance this season one formed of iwisted gold wire beads, set with pearls, | s noticeable, THAN ANY OTHER LINE. [:"/rr/rl'ig/z/m’ Tvains Daily e e § e | e S e e | s e S CITY TICKET OFFICE, 1324 Farnam St. 'Phone 316 The best for The best tor. Kuhn's Glycerole of Roses For sale by all druggists. 25c Per Bottle, Dr. Buriman": WnndorfuTomr. . O Ri ENl 5 DRINK If you are sick you need Dr. Burkhart's Vegetable Compound. A trial will convince CURED 8Y you of its great Cures iKldney and | ™ Jiver D tipation, Catarrh F Stomach_ Trouble plessiens, | Night L1]] Sweals, Stftnes tn Limbe and Jolngs, Poor E RIBBON REMEDY ppetite, Sick, Sour Stomach, efc. 10'days' | Ny taste. No odor. Cun be g trial free. All druggists. of Water, tea, OF Gofies Without patiare DR. W. 5. BURKHART. Cinclnnatl, 0, | kiowiedge White Ribbon Remedy will cure or des wiroy the diseased appetite for lll:u/l(.‘l{:c linulants, whether the patient is “ cons lirmed inebriate, a “Uppler,” soclal drinker or drunkurd. 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