Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 14, 1902, Page 22

THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, DECEMBER 14, - === S IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. £ _@®© FOR EVENING WEAR. | pin tucks had been used to Imitate the | petals of flowers. These radiated in swirl- | | ing lines from centers of white lace seeded | | with black knots, the design forming a | sort of big Aubrey Beardsley sunflower. Inquiring eyes looked in vain for any to the | puckering of the crepe by this curious theater in a cloth afternoon gown. The tucking, which narrowed to nothing at the Buropean custom of elaborate dressing for ' outer ends. Careful pressing had left it the theater has come across the water, and perfect, and as the wearer moved her sun- it has probably come to stay. Only when | flower borders were for all the world like the opera season New York is in full | the finest bralding or embroldery. sway does one know what wealth has dic- The elegance of these gowns depends on tated for the season’s wear in the cven- [all sorts of ilttle details, Indescribably The commands of the multi-milllon- | simple In themselves. Even when the wife can be followed in full by com- | costume comes home from the dressmaker tively few, but with a little ingenuity | the woman ot imvention can add many every woman can make changes in her the- | novel touches. ater attire that will bring it more up-to: The new Byzantine and Blonde laces, @ate and cause her to be fashionably | fashioned in entire walsts, are very hand- gowned without being extravagant. some with plain velvet or silk skirts and Magnificence Is the keynote of the cos- ( guch a get-up is as suitable for opera as | ftuming, and when the entering Wraps are | theater. thrown back bodices cut to the lowest | Again, one sees odd bodices in plain and | Umit are revealed. These are held on by vttt isied the merest excuse for shoulder straps—a wisp of tulle slipped through diamond ©lasps, a chain of rosebuds, a scrap of vel- wet or ribbon. Sometimes with a white lace or velvet gown the entire shoulders are out, the line of the rounded neck slip- ping below them in the old joned way. ‘With this the bertha fall, which covers the top of the arms alone, is the only artifice for sleev Comparing such styles with modest ones of the orchestra, mind interrogates “Must ono show all o get into society?” Even the tollettes of very young girls are cut low to some degr: though the best models in theso show a charming simplicity in make and material, Effective Combinntion, White chiffon with Greek borders of gilt braid was the combination effective in the tollette of one fair maid who wore a unique headdress. This was a long bow of white gauze, folded to imitate ribbonm, with a fall of gilt wheat ears at either end. The adjustment of the bow was straight across the head, which brought the bunches of grain becomingly behind the ears. This same simplicity is often displayed In the toilettes of the younger matrons, ‘whose charms are enhanced by plainness. With one opera gown of ruby velvet worn by a pale, dark woman, bodice drapings of white tulle was the only ornamentation. "Two other pretty young wives, who seemed scarcely out of their teems, wore bodice decorations of artificial flowers, small water 1ilies with rubber stems shaping the fall for white silk and chiffon gowns. The wraps which muffle all this loveli- Dess and hide from street eyes the dia- monds, pearls and other gems worn in lavish profusion, are of one sort as to length. With the finer gowns cloaks are al- ways skirt long, and velvet, white cloth, lace and chiffon are some of their rich ma- terials. The airy textiles are applied to cloth and silk, which, in turn, are lined with some delicate fur, generally ermine. In this case there is commonly an ermine tippet or scarf. Marabout in the same shapes gives a fairy touch to other wraps. Theater Garments. Of recent years, so great has been the change In theater fashions that even out- side the opera one sees low-cut gowns. At an important first night the dress displays are sometimes very impressive, and low- cut gowns in many gala materials show not only In the boxes, but here and there in the orchestra chairs. The heads of the wearers reveal numerous styles of hair dressing sct off with wired bows, algrettes, velvet roses, leaf sprays and combs of many sorts. This holds good with both the elderly and the young, for the theater hat, as it was once understood, New York Opera on Reflects the Decrees of Fashion. NEW YORK, Dec When the American woman went 12.—The days are past the more the ribald one's collar bones | soclal nature in this w OPERA AND THEATER WRAPS, to fill some place that has been left vacant | at the last moment. In fact there is a fad for telephoning messages of this sort nowadays. When it | first gained entrance to residences the tele- phone was intended as a means of communi- cation between a man's office and his home chiefly; then it began to be used for the ordering of cabs, for marketing, for hurry- ing up slow tradesmen and the various uses connected with housekeeping. By degrees friends began to make use of the quick method of communicating with each other, and it was so delightfully in- formal that it became a vogue. Of course, old-fashioned persons regarded with horror the fdea of transmitting messages of a . but the age Is in such a hurry that the time-saving method has grown to be accepted as quite the proper thing. The informality of the telephone method of communication is what appeals to the younger generation of society. An invita- no longer exists. If gray hair will insist upon a bonnet, the structure s everywhere most modestly proportioned. During Duse's New York engagement many beautiful costumes were seen, exhib- iting In every detall what the elegant New York woman feels {a correct for thea- ik Negw ter wear. Skirts almost fuvariably were | Many huge silk bags are carrled, some of trained, and, mixed in with more splendid | which, with thelr superbly worked silk creations, were dainty little gowns which | gng brilliant colors, would make the plain- the wise woman frequently knows to be | egt toflets gay. The newest models in home made. Delaine and cashmere, either | thege are in chatelaine design, with hand- in white or fait color—pearl gray, azure, | gome gilt and silver trimmings, often gem- dull rose, or pale green—composed SOmE | ot The ostensible purpose of the bag is of these pretty frocks, whose models ran |, nold the libretto, fan, handkerchief, chiefly to a flounced skirt and blouse w: ses and smelling salts. The incidental Always there were lace or batiste Insets | ghioct 1y aistinctly beautifying. inserted in some novel way, With many | g§ome women make a fad of this fashion. drooping sboulder effects, and unlined { one pight the bag 1s of pompadour em- stocks, the lower edge of which took the | proideries and cut-steel beads; another present downward dip at the front. time it is of lace lined with white eilk, Much hand tucking was observed. In anq again it s of the same material as one fustance it shaped an entire flounce | (he wearer's gown. for a frock in dull blue veiling. Yellow | 1ace fnsertion, o & sort of Malteso pattern, | o0™p 1e7Y PR cloaks of whie cloth, ornamented this. The blg squares were | yonpy of getalled description. Ome of detached and set at a diamond angle in | n ot O { ¥ be owned by any woman who is the bodice and sleeves. The front of the | ;50 gp ghgolute pauper, and she has only blouse bodice was of kilted mousseline | o i good playhouse once to eee that (white), tucked in a drooping line across | wpiio evening wraps are the rage of the the bust to give a voluminous look. The | o uoder puffs of tho bell sleevcs which | 4 gtunning white cloth model is in loose slashed up at the back, were of the 8ame |gu.que ghape, with bell sleeves and & material, and all over the yellow lace fnsets | Bl TLIR o BO 0 DET, FIOCTAL of the ® light sowing of black French knots pro- | (rimming is confined to the shoulders, over | wiSed enctive sontrast which drops & deep cape edged with a With this costume and others the Intro- | aoupce of kilted chiffon. Above this is a duction of a fragment of the gown stuft | pgrroy Jine of brown fur and above that a in the lace stock was a neat trick for be- | gon porder of guipure grapes. comingness. Again, a touch of black velvot | 'y n Con st Go T A coats 1o | would be used, of both black and color, 8nd | yuye_tinteq cloths are seem, with stitched | the sleeve finish would repeat the scheme |pyngs and caracul linings. These warm '8 straight wristhend, oult of edgs. tur doublings in the unsewed state can be Dashes of Color. had for $15, o that an elegant wrap may The fact that most of these evening skirts |beé secured fof the comparatively small | are detached from thelr linings makes it | Sum of §30. For the woman who can af- possible to use one silk drop for several |ford something more lavish, a quatnt cloak | costumes, and a careful search of the shops |10 pale gray cloth has telling graces. The Wil reveal many cheap laces of cholce |100se model of this s almost skirt length design. The Malteso imitations are espe~ A scarf of gray chiffon and epaulettes | clally desirable, and If a good tone of |Of White Irish polnt make the ehoulders yellow can be found in them, they can trequently deceive the most knowing. Cloth in white or pale colors, faille and welvet, are popuiar theater material with Bere and there un all-over lace frock or of crepe de chine. This last texture, indeed, is much seen and every specles of lace and variety of handwork may go with it. For example, on one bewlldering crepe gown in the tenderest pearl—that misty tint which seems as much white as gray— whose high, long-sleeved cuts are made more festive by the elegance of accompany- ing detalls—the hair ornament, a tiny | spangled or painted fan, and immaculate gloves. effect at the front and back. almost flouncing, sleeves have several un- dersleeves of the chiffon and a band of the Stberian squirrel, which lines the high collar borders. A cravat of chiffon and | Irish point fAnishes the throat. MARY DEAN. INVITATIONS BY TELEPHONE, Amother Blow to Letter Among Women, Writing A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER is dying out is that the telephone is being munication between friends in the matter of invitations, for the announcemeht of im- portant events and for the sending of wes- sages of congratulation and condolence. Those who cling to the old forms seem to be in the minority today. The younger generation refuses to be hampered by the time-consuming methods of several years g0, when & note of invitation, for Instance, could not even be sent through the mail, but must be delivered by band, The modern youth or imaiden picks up the telephone and dispatches an invitation to luncheon or the matinee, and even for s0 serious & function common now for a hostess to call up & friend at the last moment, frankly admit- ting by the action that she ounly desires wor m Tan, Freckios, Moth ¥ ease, and blemish on besuty. wnd defies detection. it has stood tbo fest of Biy-mia ¥ wd o W o (e Rawir ton (s oatient) 'As “you ladies will ase them. | recom. m URAUD'S CREAM' as the least ful of all the ekin preparations " For ssle by all drugglats an tancy goods deal ofs in the U. S aad Europe FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop's, #1 Great Jones St. N. ¥, . flowered silk, combined with lace or chiffon, |tion given or accepted or rejected in this | tions | that frequently arise on the reception of appear very low and simulate an Empire | The wide, | One reason why the art of letter writing | used mere than ever as a means of com- | a dinner it s quite | way has not the importance attached to the old method of a mote delivered by a mes- senger. This was a serious affair, and one pondered over the answer to send, the ex- tent of the soclal obligation involved and other matters. But the message over the wire is differ- ent. One does not have time to study ques- to motives, dress, the people one is to meet, or any other of the small problems formal invitation. The telephone bidding reeks of the up-to- band's people, 20 help was to be looked for from that quarter, and the chance dis- covery, through a friend, that her husband had written to his father from Seattle, where he was living with his daughter, was the first light she had on the subject. But Seattle was at the other end of the conti- nent and poverty barred the way. To satisty herselt that her information had been correct she wrote to the adjutant of the Salvation Army In Seattle, stating her case and asking help to ascertain the whereabouts of her child. In a few weeks the answer came that Josephine had been found in the home of a Mrs. Coffin in Seat- tle. The photograph sent by her mother had served to identify her. From that mo- ment the determined woman set herself to save the necessary money to travel out west. It cost two long years of toll, but she never faltered. When she had saved $200 she started west. She kept hor secret well. Through- out those weary months she shared her project with none. Those who knew her best thought she had abandoned hope of ever seeing her child again. Her hus- band's relatives were lulled into security and her departure, ostensibly on a trip to visit friends in New York and Brooklyn, aroused no suspicion. Arrived in Seattle, she registered under an assumed name and began inquiries. Just as the car was drawing to its destina- ”~< FRENCH CLOAK OF PALE GRAY CLOTH WITH EMPIRE EFFECT IN CHIFFON date. It simply states that the occasion is there waiting and it calls for a quick de- clsion. There is no reading between the lines and no time to ask why and wherefore. It lacks the chilling dignity and importance that sometimes linger quite unintentionally about a note. Three Years Mother Rewarded. Mother love developed a feminine Sher- lock Holmes and has carried Mrs. Mileta Stiles 6,000 miles In search of the baby daughter whose wonderful recovery, after | three years' absence, is the talk of Mor- ristown, N. J The story is the old one of inharmony be- tween husband and wife. It reached its climax when the little Josephine was 4. | Then Mrs. Stiles, returning from a short visit one night, found the home deserted. | Husband and child were gone. Fraatic with | grief, the mother exhausted all ordinary | methods to trace them. The police and the newspapers were allke tried in vain. At last, her money spent, Mrs. Stiles could no longer look to the detectives for help. Months passed, but the woman never re- linquisked her quest. At war with her hus- Through the Salvation army she had bbb MR e Josephine had been trans- terred to the village of Dunlap, a short distance from the city proper. She took the trolley for the little settlement and tlon caught sight of a group of school children liberated for recess. In an in- stant she started to her feet with an irre- pressible cry, and, dashing like a mad woman to the door, leaped from the car before the astounded conductor could pull the bell. She had seen the child she had come €0 far to seek. Grown taller, pret- tler, older, but unmistakably her Josephine. As the mother ran to the school yard the bell recalling the children sounded. The woman called her child’s name. Josephine turned, recognized her mother, and, rush- ing into her arms, burst into tears. At this instant a city-bound car came along. Mrs. Stiles boarded it with the little girl and in town took her to a clothing store, where she purchased a new outfit. She also changed her own hat. Then hastily gathered her belongings from the hotel she started on her homeward way long before school was over. The mother says that on the first night on the train she never closed her eyes. Vislons of detectives armed with warrants for her arrest kept her on the alert till she reached Morristown and safety. When she entered her own door at No. 18 Co- lumbia street the other morning tears were streaming from the mother's eyes and her volce was shaken with emotion as she sald: “I've brought my huppiness home with me.” A FAD FOR SEADS. How an Oriental Teste is Fostered in Many Ways. Chains made from all sorts, hues and kinds of beads are worn this seaspn. In fact, the chain fad 1s one of the pronounced fancles of the moment and has led clever- industriously inclined young women to try thefr skill in the fashioning of these mod- 1sh accessories for indoor and outdoor cos- tumes. In consequence some exceedingly artistic and original designs have been evolved by these ingenious amateurs. Muft chains, purse chains, necklaces and a host of other useful and ornamental varieties of chalns represent the season's output, as seen in the shops and made at home. The tendency toward things Oriental and semi- Orlental, particularly in decorative way, has stimulated interested in the ‘“bead fad" for gally colored chains are invari- ably worn by the color loving Oriental A bright young woman is engaged in de- signing and making chalns of beads, fol- lowing out general color schemes and ar- rangements of Oriental character. She finds the occupation a paylng ome. The beads are of coral, malachite, crystal, fet, amber, pearl, turquoise and other semi- precious stones, the pearls belng om the “mother of pear!” order. The turquoise chalns are of fine beads, three strings be- ing braided together. A chain of deep green beads made by this woman has several ragged coral beads inserted at Intervals. A coral chaln of the round variety of beads shows near the clasp, crystal beads set in between the coral ones. A string of amber beads alter- nates with et beads, while another chain also of amber, has several jet beads placed vear the clasp. A handsome turquoise string is combined with crystal and pear! beads. Silver and gold beads are also used in connection with the various stone beads, while crystal and jet beads are most ef- fectively blended in some of the band- somest of the new long chains. Frills o Exquisite gowns are made of white panne with incrustations of black Chantilly on ekirt and bodice hion Silk belts with tab ends at the back and ! ‘ "M‘V A GRAFD ! IBRARY OF Hepy STANDARD FICTION A MAGNIFICENT CHRISTMAS GIFT ivery book lover desires to possess a library of the world's standard works of fiction in an attractive and enduring form. Heretofore but few were able to procure such a collection of books owing to their great cost. ‘We are the first and only publishers to have realized the de- mand for such a library, sold at a POPULAR PRICE ON EASY MONTHLY PAYMENTS. WHY WE SELL BOOKS SO0 CHEAP During the forty-eight years of our publishing of books we have never lost gight of the fact that LOW PRICES ATTRACT A MULTITUDE OF BUYERS. Our motto has always been: “RIGHT BOOKS AT RIGHT PRICES,” and this has been the keystone of our success. We have built up the greatest book business in the world—selling millions of volumes every year, manufactured in the most complete printing establishment in the world. In order to retain our skilled labor and keep our presses busy during the dull summer months (when publishers generally are reducing their forces) we printed a special edition of THE WORLD’ STANDARD WORKS OF' FICTION. This grand col- lection of books embraces fifty volumes of SELECTED I"ICTION —BOOKS THAT HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME. The edition is LIMITED and while it lasts we will sell the sets ON EASY MONTHLY PAYMENTS, at a price that is but slightly above the cost of making the books. ODRERS MUST BE SENT IN PROMPTLY TO INSURE THEIR BEING FILLED. OVER 15,000 PAGES OF BEST FICTION. Each of the fifty volumes in thie grand library is a complete story by a famous novelist, whose name will live as long as English literature. The makeup of the SEND NO TONEY IN ADVANCE. By A. Conan Doyle The White Company. The Sherlock Holmes Btories The Sign of the Four. A Study in Scarlet . Beyond the City. The Red Spider. By M. der Haggard, Dawn. Cleopatra, The Witch's Head. Jess. By Wm. Black A Princess of Thule. Donald Roms of Helmra. The Strange Adve tures of a Pl ton., That Beautitul heaylly' stamped in gold. make a most acceptable Christmas gift. tion charges prepald, and let you examine the books in your home. If you find VOLUMES OF STANDARD . _FAMOUS' WORKS BY FAMCUS AUTHORS. A Romance of Two ‘The Dead Secret. Lena Rivers. By “The Duchess” ByBaring-Gould By Rosa Nouchette Black Rock. il By Blackmore Poe's Detective Tales. 1173 Tower Prage. Bone. ‘Tricotrin. Donovan. volumes is in every way worthy of their contents. The paper ls of a_selected As each volume is complete in itself and there s no fndication that it is a part WE WANT TO CONVINCE YOU. them as represented, you pay in easy monthly payments. ' If you don’t want the SENT FREE FOR By Marie Corelli By Wilkie Collins By Mary J. Holmes By F. Anstey Ly The Moonstone. Tempest aud Sun- Pusilie In the Roar of the Carey. fiy & M, Barits By Edgar Allen b9 Sbigeeay By Grant Allen Wanda. In All Sh Moth In the Golden Days. quality, the binding a rich, dark-ribbed silk -cloth, with titles and authors' names of & set, the books can he used for presen tation purposes. One or morc volumes To prove the worth of this library we offer to send the entire set, all transporta- books you return thém at our expense. YOU TAKE NO RISK. EXATINATION. Vendetta. Evil Genlus. Meadowbrook. Vice Versa. f 3 bine. A ¢ Bt by By Ralph Connor E-dog 1 The Little Minister. S By “Ouida” ‘What's Bred in the Othmar, By Thos. Hardy. By Edaa Lyall A Hury Norseman. The Hidden Hund. Capitola’s Peril Shadow of a Crime. The Bondman. Each Book is of Standard Library Size and Beautifully Bound in Cloth. TERMS—After examining the books send us your decision. If you conclude to keep days' approval, delivery charges o\ them the total cost will be $19.50 for prepaid, your LIBRARY OF SELECT WRO4 the 50 volumes, payable 50 cents FICTION in 6 volumes. It retained I S\g upon the acceptance of the agree to pay for same according to the SN Gl S0 & et terms of this advertisement. If not satisfac- tory, I will return the books within six days at thereafter until paid Your expense. A2 for 1n tull, Name.. Town STREET & SMITH, Pubiishers, NEW YORK. ESTABLISHED IN 1855, Only for United States. STREET & SMITH, New York City. Please send me, on three IRV sists of a posy of violets or white roses on the top are extremely modish. White satin makes a capital background for chine velvet painted garlands In soft pastel colorings mingled with lace. A brooch in the form of a flower faghtoned from a large amethyst and rimmed in rose g0ld represents an artistic jewelry produc- | tlon, Some costumes of white and pastel cloth are trimmed with bordering showing spots of varlous tints. The border is edged with a narrow fancy bralding. The stocks In let and white now on view in the shops are strikingly beautiful, all sorts and varieties of fancy neckwear being included in this collection. Large black Alastian bows have not gone out of fashion aitogether and you may wear a fiyaway bow of white tufle it you iike or one single rose at any point on your head, whichever adds most to your charms. The latest gold chain purses are models of attractiveness and elaboration, most of them being inlald with jewels and finished with clasps of exquisite workmanship. The fancy belts in the shops are most attractive In silk elastic of different colors, stitched with jewels and steel nail heads arranged in design and mounted on & handsome buckle, which is sometimes of velvet with the same jewel decoration Plaid belts with buckles of Kayserzinn are among the novelties. The fancy for plaid also extends to stocks, some of which Gre composed entirely of the ‘plaided r terials in bright or subdued colorin others are of plain color edged with a band of plald. At a recent wedding the bridesmald car- | riedl bouquets that were a lttie out of the common. They were composed of French heather with a row of scarlet berries around the bottom. Loops of delicate pink Tibbon were mingled with the eprays of heather and the color combination of fiower, ribbon and berries was exceedingly effective. From Parls comes the announcement that | velvet and crepe de chine are fuvorite | fabrics for dressy tollets in that 137 An exquisite gown worn at a recent Parisian wedding was of glace reseda vel- vet trimmed with white velvet and gulpure applique. The accompanying wrap was a shoulder cape fashioned of three bands of | sable, combined with white chenille and finished with long stole ends of sable. Fast Time Dr. Burknart's Wonderful Offer, GOMPOUND. Do not miss getting Dr. Burkhart' table Compound. Positively cures la-| grippe, malaria, billousness, liver trouble, | rheumatism, catarrh, palpftation of the heart, pain’ In the side, sick or bioated stomich and female diseases. The medi- cine of the age, as it Is without equal. 10 days' trial free. 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