Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 21, 1902, Page 14

i | I TR 1 OMAHA DAILX BEK: SUNDATY, TAKE SHAPE. Cloaks, wns, Notable ¥ rocks and Millinery. NEW YORK, Sept, 19.—The first thing one tures notices with the new autumn suits is & tendency toward braid trimmiogs and stitched strappings of all sorts. In ‘form the gowns, even the plainest of them, run 1o skirts that train slightly, with a blouse Jacket or Eton coat for the upper garment Buch stylts, however, are distinctly for | street w The dressier frocks, those worn for calling, receptions, the theater ete., show blouse or round bodies, made elaborate with embroideries and lace vests A few coats are seen with these very smart costumes, but the best of them cven sug- gest the round waist, since most of the tafl 18 in the rear. One very stunning new coat for tailor frocks shows the close fit and rear cut of a riding jacket, a long, plain, snugly fitting skirt with this adding to the horsy look More glove-tight than ever are all skirts at the top, where habit backs, fitting with- out a wrinkle and short hip yokes are distinctive features of the nawest styles Some degree of train is also everywhere observable, but, being less stiffened than formerly, the flouncing bottoms fall with considerably more grace. Another point for congratulation i that the hideous ‘“‘sym- metricals”—the graphic stage term—which, on or more, built out too meager hips, have had their day. The hips of the fashionable woman must fook small, whether they are or not, and the smaller they 1ok the better. A trio of charmin de- lghttully fllustrate these subtle but neces- sary points. Two demonstrate the invad- ing hip yoke, which in all cases is cut short at the back and to dip downward at the front. Never Is such a line departed from; it is intended that the curve of the yoke must follow that of the girdle, which at the front curves more than ever low. The New Biue. French cloth—the sort of broadcloth that has a satiny finish—in one of the new blues, composes the more elegant of the three costumes. A very handsome em- broidery In blue and black ornaments the blouse waist, but the skirt depends en- tirely upon stitched strappings of the same cloth for trimming. These outline & hip yoke and graduated flounce, horizontal bands running between at every narrow gore. At the bottom the gore bands cross the flounce one, the ends pointed and gradu- ating in length, showing longest at the back. With the rich embroidery mentioned more bands appear upon the bodice, shaping a corsat girdle shoulder, caps and euff bands for the sleeves. The tucked vest is of white mousseline, crossed by narrow strings of black panne. These hold together the em- broildered blouse fronts, whose splendor is further emphasized by large buttons of sap- phire and silver. A black mousseline cravat smartly swaths the throat and the folded glrdle is of the black panne. The sccond gown in point of elegance is also blue, for blue, you know, is Fashion's latest caprice. She does not confine herself Yo any particular shade, but offers tints for every taste, “legitimate” blues—our old friends the navy shades—and “illegitimate’ ones, If we may use the word, for some of the numberless mad-tinted dyes. The old- time sky-blue, rebaptized azure, is a favorite color for airy evening gowns, and a new and street gowns very eccentric tint is called ‘“gaslight blue."” Radiant Colors. Trimmings of black and white deck many of these radlant colors, the combinationg showing in bralds with a tartan weave and checked silks. On a bewitching house gown of paie blue French cashmere, black and white checked silk was used with a sur- prisingly smart effect. Also it suggested dazzling possibilities in the way of economy, for such silks are never dear and short remnants in them can always be found. But to return to our second frock, whose texture Is no more than English serge, in a lightweight quality. The unlined skirt is lightly tucked and falls from u scalloped hip yoke over a black taffeta “drop,” which, you know, is dressmaker's jargon for lining. The trimming is narrow black brald, put on the skirt {s an odd band to simulate a graduated flounce. On the bodice, which goes under tho belt at the back and has loose Eton fronts, the braid is differently disposed A number of rows, closely massed, form & border for the cutout neck and fronts which lap slightly, some seattered ends of braid, finished with heavily embroidered knots, giving the necessary look of relation- ship with the skirt. Similar swirls orna- ment the drooping pulfs of the sleeves, whose upper pertions more than usually accentuate the prescnt closely at this point. The third gown, though made| with less dressy intention than these two, to the sophisticated mind far surpasses them in dash. Brown and white mottled wool is its ground maaterlal, plain brown cloth bands, with white cloth edges—both left raw—accomplishing a decoration infinitely effective. Two of these outline the narrow apron gore of the skirt, two others run- ning round with a double flounce suggestion, swirling oddly at the sides and back. Stylish Coats, An Eton coat is the simple upper gar- ment, sleeves slightly flowing and fronts|are some little toques made of velvet lapping diagonally and dropping below the belt in a stylish point A military looking frogging 1s made across the fronts of the coat, which is cut out in the neck after the manner of all of the best Etons. This—the frogging—is achleved by a number of short straps with pendant tabs, The French back of the coat | shows only two straps, these continulng over the shoulders and down the side fronts suspender fashion All of these gowns are from ready-made models, whereby you may see that the shops are catering more than ever to the demand for cle Nevertheless, none of them were very dear gance. | bullt upon silk, they were, as compared to A SWAGGER RAGLAN. former prices, astonishingly cheap; $60, $49 and $38 were the prices with which they were ticketed. Of even more importance than the gown {s the hat with which beauty will soon crown herself, the whole style of the tollette Aepending now upon the fitness and becom- ingness of the headplece. The shape of this fs not necessarily dependent upon the genre of the costume, &tiff severe effects being seen with the most frou-frou cos- tumes, and some eminently picturesque with the plainest dresse: What is required is that you get the right thing and wear it rightly, which means that you must consider your type first of all and the kinks of fashion next. It would be impossible to detail all the ins and outs of the new millinery, but an exaggerated flatness s the distinguishing feature of the most popular models. The brim shapes of the summer—very wide at the front and dipping over the face with next to no brim behind, will continue 'to be worn. With such headgear trimmings more than ever conform to the lines of the bat. In some cases, indeed, they aeem part of it, folds of velvet or silk mingling with other folds made in the hat itself. The side brims of these flat models curve slightly upward, with puffed and erimped locks only filling out the underspaces. The ehort backs are met by the coiffure, over | which ends, if they are not too long, may | dangle. Felts in Vogue. Another very flat hat i a hugs low- crowned sallor, with a shallow upcurving brim. Such styles come In the brilllantly colored felts in vogue, and are seen with \ wing and ribbon trimming The garnitures are put on very simply and always with an eye to preserving the fiat, pan-effect, for these great round hats are delighttully suggestive of cake pans. A stylish model in green felt—the vivid Patrick green—revealed an unusual smart- {ness In the arrangement of the trimming. White satin ribbon composed this, folded |In a narrow crown band and bunched in |two buge rosettes, which were placed under the brim, just back of each ea A soft bow filled in the back space between these and directly In front of the hat were two parrot wings in green and blue. These, very uarrow and shaply pointed, were Inter- locked and posed across the hat in almost stralght line. The effect was very stylish and simple enough for anybody to follow. In variety and coloring the range in new hat materials is enormous. Braid hats of several textures—sometimes taffeta velvet and chenille combincd—come in brilllant colors, all trimmings preserving the start- ling tint Agaip, there will be a hat in shaded colors—blues and greens mingled, reds fading to the palest pinks, and purples ending fn violet. Among these novelties, for of course these hats are only noveltle CONVENTENG) il ECONOM Y- Soie with Joass 1u.l ~The oif 13 & Every “OARLAND" Sold Are Unequalled In FIRISH—Smoothucss of castiogs, porfect fittings and nickeled mpny laborsaving devices which fia_coustruct.on that socures best ros DURADILI T Y —Last.ugquality rendoring fow repairs necoszary. Leading Merchaits Threughout the Prizes ruae from 55 1o $50. Sold by Progressive Stove Merchaats Everywbere. Made caly by The Michigan Stove Company, Largest Makers of Stoves and Ranges in the World, b e s e or sale by Milton Rozers & Sons Co-, I4th and F, mam Strests. "¢ TES beauty of outline and weall with a Written Guaranty by Country. | On the contrary, considering they were all | utumn léaves, which resplendent'y plain tailor frocks. Large plume trimmed hats are seen among the finer toppings, the shapes suggesting the old Gainsboroughs without being as large. These will be worn very much on | the side of the head, as if they were ready to fall oft, in fact. Other brim hats, those | evenly balanced in shape and trimming will continue to sit the head squarely, with | the downward dip over the face set off Imported Conts. Early importations In coats show that they are to be in many lengths. The models the shops are taking to are mainly of the three-quarter variety, with loose backs, open sleeves and many variations of the | strap trimming. These are not universally ]hv*w\mlxlx. though there is no doubt but that they are very convenient styles More effective and decidedly more ele- gant are certain little French coats which suggest capes. These drop just below the | | waist at the back, the scallop rounding {up till the front is a mere nothing | One beautiful tucked model in such a coat gave a clever woman an idea for making over an old bisque cloth cape. | Firet, an entire coat of Ivory white taffeta was cut, with flowing sleeves coming short | of the wrist. Then all over this the bisque cloth was sewed in circular bands about two Inches wide, the I‘HI‘("/ at the finish closely resembling tucking. ~The trimming of the old cape, a black chenille and steel embroldery, was used for a deep collar, with the steel picked out and the injured | places covered with leaf applications of black velvet. Last, but not least, flouting | scarf ends of black silk muslin were added | to the front. These ruffied at the bottoms and tled at the bust in a graceful bow Many of the new styles give ideas for | the making over of garments, the skirta with tip-gore and narrow breadths being especially suggestive. For these almost | any skirt of the last three seasons can'be | used, as it Is quite within the province of fashion to have both the yoke and the | flounce in a contrasting material. With black cloth any figured taffeta in a smart deslgn can be used, this shaping the hip gore, the flounce and bodice proper. For | the rest of the gown, the middle skirt and | bolero jacket, use the cloth, first seeing | that it is well cleaned and pressed MARY DEA WOMEN AS KICKERS, Can Accomplish Wonders If They Kiek Wisely and Well, The women of Amcrica need no advice from any one on moral ‘questions, says the Saturday Evening Post. Witness what ihe power of women did in a southern state | eampaign against a congressman who had been proved of unfit character to represent | an upright body of people, and later what women did in a national fight against a western congrossman who reckoned their,| power so little that he even attempted to take his seat in congress in defiance of public opinion. Everybody admits that those two instances represent a fight of two men against the women of America, and who won? That shows what women can do, and it has never been alleged that in elther instance any woman went out- side of her woman's sphere or was un- womanly in any effort she made in the cause of pure representation and good gov- ernment. A senseless and “ldiculous system of “kicking" against everything and every- body s not urged. The chronic complainer is a nuisance to himself as well as to his neighbor, although, if he were forced to choose between the chronic “kicker” and the chronic lambs of a citizen who bears all muoicipal injustices patiently and who | meets all attempts at reform with the | watchword, “Don’t make a fuss about It," we should choose a kicker. For a chronic kicker, though he may often be too catholic in his efforts, is bound sometimes to kick a goal from the fleld of a rightéous cause. Therefore, while we do not approve of his ubiquitous methods, we boldly claim that even the chronle kicker comes nearer to | being the ideal citizen than the meek sheep of a man who bears all imposition without | protest. y In the matter of personal rights, nothing uproarious or unsexing need be advocated. A little consideration of the matter and a little quiet and persistent effort in one's | own immediate circle of friends 1= all that | is necessary. The American woman uses | tact with men as naturally as she breathes. That is the reason she gets everything she ‘wants. First, be sure of the law on the matter. | Never write a letter or utter & public pro- test until you are sure you are within your rights as bounded by the laws of your state. You will be amazed at the excel- | SMART AUTUMN HATS. lence of your laws and ordinances and the criminal laxness of their enforcement. Most of the things which harass and annoy you could be done away with if you only knew how well you are protected by law. But not enforced, you say? Well, whose fault is it but yours? You have in- fluence. Use it. See to it that deafening nolses and foul odors and unhealthful prac- tices are stopped, But, before you attempt to cast out the mote from the public eye, reflect a little for fear the beam of selfishness is in your own eye. Are you maintaining a public nuisance? Do you practice on your piano before other people are up and after they have gonme to bed? Is your husband learn- ing to play the flute? Are your children allowed to run wild and whoop and yell, regardless of the woman who is writing a book in the apartment above you? Do you keep a dog and does he bark with sheer | dog spirits and the delight of living, and do you encourage him in it, regardiess of the poor spinster within hearing who hates curs? 1t you do any of these things you are not a good citizen. If your husband does them, and you do not try to influence him to deslst, you are not a good citizen. If you are not training your boys and girls in thoughtfulness and consideration to their neighbors and friends; it you do not train them to stand up for their rights and to demand that when good laws are enacted they shall be enforced by the weight of a persevering public opinion, you are lacking both as mother and as good citizen; you are not doing your duty to your children or to your country or to yourself. ¥Frills of Fashion. Watch fobs are set with lines of differ- ent semi-precious stones, the color of the gold in tone with the stones. A handsome ring has for the stone & large oval canary dlamond, the ring itself being set solidly with small white dia- monds. A flowered silk petticoat has the ruffe shaped with tiny tucks. branching out from the top, there being ho extra ful the flounce, which skirt. Venetian follows the flare of the kid-finished and satin-faced cloths, che t and fine camel’s halr are to ed for autumn tailor gowns for shop- ping, promenade and traveling wear. A handsome collar with the stole effect has a solid band of black on the inside made of black chenille, while around the edges are chiffon ruffles, edged with more of the black chenllle, which give the proper flufty effect French jackets of lightweight covert cloth are made with double-breasted, semi-loose fronts, and finished with three graduated shoulder capes, the roll"f the lining show- ing like a sk or satin piping at the ex- treme edge of each cape. The picture hat is still hionable, it must be worn with judgment. The graceful lines of the plcture hat, wide brim and sweeping plumes, can never properly be worn with anything either masculine or even se e in For elderly women, beside handsome gowns, wraps and headwear in black set forth as very desirable, there are any number of appropriate garments in soft vle. the array of | tints of gray, certain shades of sage, and very dark green, blue and brown, also in silk and wool effects, showing a mixture of several low-toned’ but very Randsome dyes. Skirts follow the exact contour and effects employed for more young women, demi-tratis being used for simple house gowns, and a sensible walking length for the street appropriate for women past §. For and About Women. for mauve. mauve gown. Chinese girl, has started on a tour afound the write a book and lecture on what she has observed. of Lord Macauley, the historian, home is in Chicago, to Th Martin O'Connor of New York She spent her early childhood In India Miss Minnle Schenck of Willlamsport, at 200 yards. liness in | FRENCH STORM COAT. caliver rifle, is a terror to sparrows. Out of fifty-six shots at these marauding birds in one day recently she did not miss once, using a 22-caliber nfle. Miss Rose Cleveland, the sister of ex- President Cleveland, Is i successful farmer. She now owns about one-half of a 700-acre island near lslesboro, Me., having within a few days acquired an additional tract of land. Miss Cleveland has about 800 chick- ens, ‘a large herd of cows and a big vege- table garden on her island, where she raises prize pumpkins, fat_ chickens and makes prime dairy butter. She handles her affairs | herself, it Is sald, but employs a large force of men. There fs but one other cottage on_ the island. Princess Victoria, the 10-year-old daugh- ter of the German emperor, is s#id to be a most haughty little woman, with a very exalted idea of her position as a royal princess. She is much beloved by her father, to whom her imperious manner is the source of much amusement. Speaking of her to a friend recently the kaiser said: Sometimes when talking to me she quite forgets that I am emperor, but I am confident that she never for one moment forgets that she Is the emperor's daughter.” “BLEGANT HEADY MADES. Long wraps are deemed most Queen Alexandra has a declded fondness Bhe wears it both by day and evenimg and has been painted wearing a Miss Cheong Chuk Kwan, a rich young world and on her return to China will Pa., I8 declared to be champion woman rifie shot of the world, having just established a record of twenty consecutive bull's-eyes Miss' Schenck, who uses a 32- If a child is born especially beautiful, is the child. Among manifold aids to chil welcomed in the mansion as well as and instead of vish, ill-tempered and 1.00 per bottle. Druggists e b Ayt ‘Write us for THE DRADF that remains a blessing ever after to you and its country. not its every feature to be considered the smile of love and denote too the care and attention the mother had given her throughout the entire period of gestation and childbirth. On the condition of the mother during pregnancy depends the nature, tem, rament, beauty and grace of dbirth MOTHER'S FRIEND has grown to Sopullrl(_v and gained a prestige among rich women as well as poor; it is found an cabin, By lessening the mother's agon ot mind and diminishing pain a beautiful influence is wrought ngnu the child, sickly forms you have laughing humanity where sell M. E book ** M ULATO her's Friomd. stherhood. CO. Atlants, Ga. Miss Marfon Allce Smith, a grandniece | whose ! vill shortly be married Ja o TO . "'FORNIA 4 FARN Tel. 316. REPORT TO THE COMPTROLLER OF THE CURRENCY OF THE United States National Bank of Omaha At Omaha in the State of Nebraska, Sept. 15th, 1902. RESOURCES. LIABILITIES. Loans $5 A¥ies R .$2,827,713.27 | Capltal Stock . ceeeea$ 400,000.0 Real Estal 100.00 | Surplus ....... § 190,000, Stock, Sacurities, ete . 100.00 | Undlvided Profi 10,935 Premiums ....:.% .u.is . 100.00 | Circulation 20,000 Furniture and Fixtures . 100,00 | Deposits . 2,564, U, 8. Honds (circulation).. 50,000.00 Oash ....ooos $463,242.56 U. 8. Bonds.. 100,000.00 / Exchange ... 926,816,48 1,489,068.99 $4,567,172.26 M. T. BARLOW, President. C. W. HAMILTON, Vice-Presiden Given free wi Either the 50c size we know that it is the only rem which WE GUARANTEE to d | no waiting or delivered in Omaha (until furt V. B. CALDWELL, Cashler. t. w. E. RHOADES, Ass't Cashler. A MATCH SCRATCHER th each bottle of Cramer’s Kidney and Liver Cure at 40c, or the $1.00 size at 60 knows what Cramer’s Kidney and Liver Cure is good for, and . Everybody edy of its kind we ever heard of 0 WHAT THE LABEL SAYS; xcuses—if it don’t cure Kidney, Blood and Liver Trouble bring back the empty bottle and get your coin. Cramer’s Kidney and Liver Cure her noticey for 60c and 40c¢ for $1.00 and 50c sizes, or sent to any out-of-town address, express prepaid, for $1.00. Genuine for sale at chaefer’s Cut Price Drug Store Sixteenth and Chicago Str A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. y Freckive, Moth Paicl | Rash anc skin dis- ept 0O counter feit of similar ame. Dr. L. A Hayre eald to & iar dy of the haui-tm s patieat): A8 you ladies will use them, 1 recom- raend ‘GOURAUD'S CREAM' as tho le barmtul of all th For e Bkin preparations. J sale by all Druggisis and Fancy Goods Dealers in the U. 8. and Europe. ' FERD. HOPIKINS, Prop's, Y. reat Jones St SCHOOL " The Froebel School 2567 Farmam Street. Opened SEPTEMBER 15, 1902, Kindergarten (limited) Primary and it‘.runmn Grades. A limited number of children received In the tamily. tARRIET HELLER, Prin. Tel I 2424 _WHIIE_RIBB.N RENEDY No odor. Can be given in gl tea, or coffee without patient's kiowledge White Ribbon Remedy utroy the diseased stimulant i | of Water, will_cure or appetite for alcoholie whether the patient is & ocon firmed inebriate a “tippler,” soelal drin or drunkard. Tmpossible for anyone have an dppetite for alcoholic 1iquors using White Ribbon Remedy Indorsed by Members of W. €, T, U, Mrs. Moore, press superintendent of Wo- man’s Christlan Temperance Union, Ven- r tura, California, writes: 1 fave teste White Iiibbon Kemedy on very v:hnumno‘ Irunkards, and { s have been man. In many cases (he Remedy was given | cretly: I cheertully recominend and indorse { White Ribbon Kemedy. Membe our | tinion are delighted to ind An sconomical | treatment 10 wid us in our temperance work. " Drugglsis mall, §l. Tris) puck: free by writ ra. A M. Townsend (for years secretary of a Woman's Christian Temperarce Union). 215 Tromont Bt., HBos. ton, Myss. Sold in Omaha by SCHA-FER’S §U/isk: Phone 8. W. Cor. 16th and Chicago. | Goods deliveres FREE to any part ot eity, CUT PRIC