Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 14, 1901, Page 22

A SE Many Old-Time Favorites ut of Fashio NEW YORK, April 12 of genulne novelties tards have had to pu most in order tlon of the exquisite ered loulsines; duche aside entirely for ite satin and peau de cygne volles that opened th Febroary and filled Bave been utterly or was cloth, tamise etam v Not only should a she due scaron n8 to thes but a cautlon must ! freo ndulgence in tuck eonsidered useful and protty Pelgn is over and the gown th ago would have been fashi to meet por ¥ han glven agals Tucks are but th t two ve ie puckered THKEE NEW AND ¥ o S— from train to collar is now stiff with em broidery. A Cawe in Point, Some of the pale tan and cream batiste robes are solilly needle-worke!; others, as in the case of a charming afternoon gown worn by the damsel posing before (he Lou XV table, display an harmonious comp ise between the parting and the arriving fashion. ‘This attractive costume is of the fine, deep cream batiste that the Parisian dress- maker loves and its skirt is tucked, bor- dered with heavy needlework in the same color that opens in a design to adequic reveal the green taffeta lining on which batiste 1s founded. The wide glrdle of the walst 18 tucked, but the top of the budy is of the closest, richest batiste cmbroidc that 0 reveals the green silk lining. Rose color or green fs what these trans- parent and encrusted robes are usually founded upon, and of the two tones green has rather the popular advantage of the rose. Taking a bird's-eye view of a well dressed gathering of women, one is easily convinced that there are thous s of gr @owns in actlve wearing just now. Fro the deep gray green of mignonctte throush opaline and vert romantique to dazzling stlvery eau de nil the chromatic scale of verdant tones and tints runs, and the clerks behind the silk counters admit that they A TEA ®ell ten yards of green foulard or lonisine to one rose or yellow or lilac silk Ot course, under this head is not Included the very faney silk, striped or self-decoras ting, in which countless colors are com- bined. A certain number of women wear these with smart effect to be preferred by the you There are exquisite thick soft t 1n quality as faille and decoratod with big bunches of rose and Hlac, or yellow cud blue sweet poas. More daring and mest in- teresting are the parrot silk in the most Bashing mingled ton green, red a yellow, blue, purple and cerise, ctc ger element et rich Suringtide Lace, Apropos of colors, who does not warmly admire the dentclle printemps, or, to trans late literally, the springtide lace, woven of stlk or linen in lovely harmonious tints of cream, lilac and groen, or string giay and blue with touches of yellow? This is a lace to apply flat. Few flounces of It are seen, and the most apnrov-d us» of iy is showed in the rarely lovely aft noon carriige gown A pale groen handker- oblef lawn this is, boasting two i unces on the skirt. They are encrusted with fughivo Jeaves and petals of lace poppies, ind at the head of the top flounce runs all around the skirt a wreath cf the royal red poppy blossoms. More delicate wreaths and leaves IVE 84 though th m | THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, ———= of the same flower appear on the waist, and one of the quaint charms of this lace is that 1t is en in special patterns. One t of leaves, bands, paneis, ete esign of green leaves and huge themut:s, another displiys woven Into a mesh of brown i m vautiful are the mixed red cllow ros W Turquoise Parasols. h such delightful and novel costumes nt.rely new creation of sun:hade is car- I'rom Paris comes a startling tur- parasol, made of thick taffeta, wh ch color and pattern exactly represents the rix stone that is now #o popular. mounted on a brown ivory handle tudded with big. round and oblong tur- The afternoon parasol ke exceed- ingly vivid made, in many instances, to match the with which it is used. Embrotdered batiste sunshades are lined with rose or green silk in accordance with 7O tho foundation skirt of its owner's batlste dress. Plain taffeta parasols are often of- namented with little Waterloo scenes vainted on their silk skins, and the tab- | teaus of piping shepherds or dancing | nymphs 18 then framed in a circular or ob- long wreath of lace. Extravagantly pretty are the ribbon sunshades. For these the ribbons fjare herringboned together with it or silver thread and the ends of each strip of gay silk finished in a point, to | which a light glit ferret is attached. When | the sunshade is open these fringe the bot- tom of the #ilken dome and tinkle together lke pagoda bell. When the sunshade s closcd they form a jeweled necklace at the buse of the handle. Another highly approved parasol is made ot gold or silver tissue drawn over a col- ored silk foundation, and yet another and distinetly brililant example s of white loulsine brilllante, mounted on a stick of silver gllt and ornaliented on its white dome with glittering sun spots, from which epangled rays diverge.” Wattean Hats, What pleases feminine fancy greatly are the hats of pure Watteau shape for after- noon wear and the compact, simple and comfortable Little Corporal walking hat. In ;Yhin latter shape there is a clearly defined | raze for black and white. A Little Cor- NOOK., porel bas its brim cocked In a point over the face in front and fastened up flat to the | crown 1n the re: On the rear brim a broad bLright buckle through which a big velvet bow is pulled is the proper decora- | tlon. A largs ball-shaped tuft of flowers or another bow and buckle is approved as ornamentation in fron Baby ribbons deserve more than passing notice liey have made their spring ap- [ pearance with a flourish and are used 1ib- erally in dress decoration. Let us conelder as a case In point the lttle velned etamine of the single plcture. It 18 trimmed | with two types of ribbon and a MNttle iml- tation liigh lace. In common with many a mart suit of the season |t fastens in the | reor and 1s banded prettily in a yoked effect | with bullion telegraph ribbon. As a passing fantasy of tLe spring, telegraph ribbon, fu color, with its black dots and dashes, resting and worthy of uttliza- ernoon or house frock. and right shoulder of this coa- enr large pompons of the new baby has a satin ter and edge of ilver or mingled bullion and tur- threads. 1n the hair, on eveniug and in light tulle toques and such, soldedge baby ribbon has a proudly im- portant position. It is not costly and yet {very erisp and gay and decidedly a con- wown | | | WV REMAMYY ““Strong and hiexy odw Boy, is it, and no pain? That's goodl’’ ‘The joy of a new arrival in the fam y is usne ally overcast by the shadow of the pain and di comfort the expectant mot! 1f she knew ot FRIEND,”’ this would be 2ll d yourfricnds about it, as being a exclusively for external u muscles s0 that pain and sul 1t will be 3 paid sl e Sniag FHE BRADFIELD REG er must ot by express Boughy 4t a1 tespon bea nd used “ G RAAMRIAERARARAN temporary of the very Jatest phases of the MARY DEAN. | | | New Passton for Horticalture sumes Various Forms, NEW YORK, April 12.—That we have | only touched the outer edge of the garden craze is what the florists and plant im- porters’ and landscape architects have agreed; and the fad and demand thie spring is for an acre or two that will de- velop with the greatest rapidity and is | habitable as a garden can be. The pop- ular requirement {s for the massing of bright, vivid colors in the flowering plants, for Japanese corners, colonial alleys, eighteenth century grottoes and rookeries, sun dials, lead figures and over and above everything else an abundance of arbors. The taste for arbors was first nourished on the Itallan pergolas that are almost an {nevitable feature of every modern country estate. _But the pergola, beautiful as it is, is not at all satistying and the garden of the very near future will be as well sup- plied with cosey corners, flirtation re- treats, tea nooks, etc. as a well designed country house. The foundation for moat of these arbors is no longer the earwig- | inviting rustic pagoda, or a chilly minia- ture marble temple, but a frame of green painted wire or lead piping to be covered cventually with the rapid growing honey- suckle, clematis or rambling roses. Ase Nopes of Roses. Such a garden develops with a rapidity that satisfles even the impatient American mind, and among its manifold charms i to be considered the inducement that it is not a very expensive luxury; that it is pleturesque and casily lald out: that a flower and exerclse-loving women alone can take e of it and that it adapts itself to every species of environment. On some of the spacious country estates of the millionaires a special little arbor garden is laid out in a corner to itself, in erder that its peculiarities may not jar upon the horticultural design followed in the dizposition of the rest of the flowery area; and when this plan i3 followed the arbor garden Is divided from the Italian or from the water garden by a rope of crimson or white rambler that forms a dividing line, but not a barrier For the rope of roses fron stakes, six to ten feet long, are fastened in the ground from ten to fifteen feet apart and a slack green-painted wire is strung through holes at the top of every stake. Eventually a lusty crimson rambler climbs the wire and describes In time a fairy ring of greenery and color about the gay colony of domed and striped arbors. ‘This pretty boundary line s somewhat happily utilized abgut that area of a gare den devoted exclusively to rose culture, and in a rose tract there is sure these days to be a domed tea arbor of green wire, shaped like a temple dedicated to the muses and large enough to give the climb- fng plants a chance to display their glo- ries of blossom to the greatest advantage. Where Lovers Linger. A flirtation retreat has now become a feature of every garden that is nobly planned and is a circular frame of trellls wire, ten feet high, with three exits, and the gardener usually allows honeysuckle, matrimony vine and a white running rose called the bride to vie in their efforts to screen the occupants of the green and frag- rant enclosures from prying eyes. A flirta- tion retreat is always provided with a garden seat shaped like the drawing room tete-a-tete chair and never a seat is there provided for the tiresome, superfluous third person. In the way of wire and lattice furniture for big and little gardens the most pictur- esquely pretty trellis gateways with double arcl. or double gables, are made. Some of these, made in double gothic gahles, have the extremo tops of the gables 80 arranged that they may be utilized, by quick-witted robine, thrushes, black birds, ete., as fine building sites. By dint of excluding cots and marauding small boys most of the properly lald out and well conducted gar- dens are made to harbor large colonies of wiid songsters and the owners, who really love the birds and seek every means to encourzge them, buy tiny nest frames and nest shelters and thoughtfully hang them about among the vines and bushes. At the garden furnishing shops they sell also the most charming arbor cages for canaries and bullfinches and an amazing array of Ivory- handled scissors and baskets for gathering roses. Rowse Narrows. To the woman who has a garden and loves it, it is safe (o offer at the shrine one of the rose barrows made of white rushes. It is shaped exactly like a farm wheelbarrow, with the difference that it is, of course, far smaller and is as light as a baby's per- ambulator. Its body {8 woven of cream colored yreen and red willow, or rushes; bunches of cream, red and green ribbons are tled on its long curved handles and it will hold roses enough to decorate for a ball. SHE FAVORS DIVORCE. Wite of a Clergy Advocates Easy Divoree Laws. Quite a sensation has been created in Kansas City by a lecture recently delivered there by Mrs. Edith Wilson Roberts, wife of Rev. Dr. J. E. Roberts, minister of the Church of This World. Mrs. Roberts scorns being classed with the strong-minded of her sex, yet some think her views on mar- riage and divorce entitle her to a place among that sisterhood. “Marriage,” says Mrs, Roberte, “as under- | stood today, may be described as serving | two purposes; first and directly, the happl- | ness of the contracting parties; second and indirectly, the welfare of children resulting from the union. The purposes of divorce are | 1dentical with those of marriage, the eccond and indirect reason for the one becoming the paramount reason for the other. To perpetuate In the home an atmosphere of { misery that rapidly turns to hate is a erime against both children and parents. Chil- dren hed better far grow up with only one surrounded by love and peace, than with both surrounded by hatred and strite.” Arguing along the line of her contention that the number of divorces s mot dispro- portionate to the number of marriages, she sald To make a choice is ta run the risk of sing wrongly, and when we consider the vouth and inexperience of the vast ma- Jority of those who marry, when we reflect that no being can know another so per- fectly before the marriage state exiats as ufterward, the wonder increases that even & majority of homes know the pieasure and peace of happiness. The percentage of fail- ures in business is sald to be above ninety. Is it reasonable, therefore, to expect mar- riage to bo always successtul or in its bighest sense even often succesa(ul? And when people have chosen wrongly, when they have made nn honest and blameless mistake—for no man wilfully seeks his own undotug—when they have been forced to recognize their riarriage as a failure, Is it not barbarous to compel the continuance of that union Discussing the opposition made by some churches (o divorce, sk “The preachers, forced by public opinion to be wary in administering future hell, ful- fill thelr nature by demanding the continu- ance of existing hells.” Her idea of tne part courts should play in the granting of divorces is thus expressed “Marriage, being wholly a private and elvil contract, with which religion ha ing to do, unless to perform the ceremony at the wish of the contracting parties should be capable of being dissolved by the simple mutual agreement of the two them- selves, or mot they are fitted to live together. In all cases of mutua] agreement the court should have the right simply to witness the transaction, to put it on record, to see that an equitable division of the property made and to provide for the disposition ¢ support of the children “‘As 10 the state having anything to say about when the divorced persons shall re- marry, the state has no more right to die- tate by a day upon such personal liberty than it has to say when a bankrupt shall be- gin business again. “More than ten years ago our state of Missourl placed the wife on a level with her husband. Of course she cannot vote yet nor is she permitted, as in more enlightencd Kansas, to constitute herself censor of private works of art exhibited in certain places of business, nor can she indulge with impunity in piate-glass breaking, but A CREAM BATISTE FROCK THAT IS A NEW FASHIONS. can gecure release trom an intolerable mar- riage, as also can a man, which is a bless- fng not ligatly to be esteemed by lovers of Justice and moralit; BATHING SUIT! atlons for the Summer Season at the Seashore. . Time and thought and money are all well expended on surf-going and still-water bathing costumes, so various and charming are the colors and the cut of the newest models. For a half a dozen seasons back pure mohair has been the material pre- ferred for the salt water dresses and flan- nel, the standby of other days, has been curlously absent from the beaches. This year a mohair flannel has been put forward and) as It possesses the virtues of both true flannel and trve mohair it Is probably des- tined, like Britannia, to rule the wave for many svmmers to come. Mohair flannel, in many attractive colors, Is made up in designs so graceful and fanciful that many women, who have mo liking at all for salty dips and look upon buffeting waves with terror, have en- thusiastically purchased bathing dresses, along with all the paraphernalia that nowa- days 1 considered necessary for the smart beach tollet A distinctly newest mode yet e charming gown, of the seen, is a white mohalr flannel relieved with touches of green. The green 1s prettily adapted in lizes of zigzag braid, edging skirt and sleeve puffs pointed collar. With this {s worn a white silk bead handkerchief dfversified with big green polka dots To all the women now on land it is as well to suggest that on the fashionable beaches it will be cons!dercd necessary for a bathing sult to fit with all the elegant preciseness of a calling costume. At New- port, Narragansett, etc., the bathers last summer began to adopt » French fashion of carrylng down to the bathhouses every morning a pretty white wicker hand satchel, containing all the small etceteras that serve in the graceful completion of a swimming gown. The handbag is itself a special feature and it holds a becoming silk mackintosh cap, saltproof; silk hoae, white linen bathing boots and & pair of linen bathing corsets. These last are ail Important articles, for the mohair flannel sults are now so cut and fitted that they cannot he properly or presentably worn without stout, ghort and very flexible stays that lace up and have vot a bit of metal about them “Though it is perfectly safe to predict that white bathing dresses will outnumber all others, none the less will many col- ored ones be worn. Starthog bright red and Yale blue, black and orange, scarlet and white are some of the flamingo and parrot-like studies in color that the fair amphiblans will patroniz d there is a very marked inclination toward the inau- guration of vivid Roman stripes and bold Scotch plaids in the more showy gowns. Roman stripes are prominent in the ma- Jority of the flannel and Turkish toweling bath wraps, without which no well-equipped bather pretends to consider her seagoing toilet complete. A VANK NOTION, | International Organization of College Projected ional for a w It s unconve woman to travol alone in Europe or to stop at hotels | unaccompanied by a member of her family or a discreet friend of her own sex Al woman violating this unwritten law would expose herself to suspiclon if not to Insult or other danger The Amerfcan woman is gontly aud grad- ually thrusting aside irvational traditiens, relates the Chicago Chroniole civiliz tion mdvances the trestment of women all over the world grows more considerate of the inequality of her sex in physical com- petitions, of its co-ordination in all other competitfens. A movement under way in New York City will not only confirm the just claims of woman's self-reltance in this country, but must in due time modify old wor.d etiquette in beha't of educated women, The University club of New York has adopted amendments to its charter | viding fer a clubbiouse for women having college degrees, the building to provide a reception room, assembly room, sleeping rooms for non-resident members and o resiaurant, membership to include not only representatives of American, but also of foreign colleges, thus securing to this gory of somen a comforiable bome when APRIL noth- | they being best able to know whether | is | ity | ro- | 14, 1901, | traveling and all the advantages accruing { from congenlal association and local guld- | ance. The clubhouse is 1o n the center of the eity. Charges are (o cover cost only. | Hitherto the club men clusiveiy) limited to graduates of a few colleges colleges or universities are broadened charter and to these will addad the foreign Institutions of high class which admit women to degrees International organization women will, it is predicted bip (women ex 150 members, Twenty-throe of the old world, thus facilitating interna- tional intercourse and making travel for | women safer, more profitable amd more agreeable. Thus doth the American woman lead the world of women, but she should not forget that 1t was medieval Italy which first opened university doors to ber sex and en- | rolled women among the highest class of professors in the highest range of erudition, | wanrs A B LIMPS, Man with a Cork Leg 8 Girl Stmila Here 18 a chance for a girl with a cork leg. Albert Dolby, a resident of New York, who had lost ons of the limbs with which originally endowed him and has COMPROMIS SEN THE OLD AND stituted one of cork, wants to warry, and, In order that neither may be able to cast reflections upon the other he stipulates that the woman who is to become his bride shall have but one foot to stand upon. Dolby in- serted the following advertisement in a New York paper the other day “Middle-aged man wants a wife. He is all complete with the exception of one foot. Has constant work; his character and re- spectability are good. A lame person pre- ferred.” Dolby says that while some men demand musical eulture, conversational ability, a liking for books or business acumen as ac- complishments of their wives, his ideal bride is a woman with one limb a lttle shorter than it really ovght to be. “There's no accounting for tastes,” said Dolby in his home, 140 East Seventeenth street. I lost my left foot in a railrond accident, and consequently T limp. 1 want to get married, but I can’t bear the thought of hobbling up to the minister with a bride by my side whose step is the symmetry of motion. My pride would take a fall “There must be plenty of girls with AN ELAMIRE TRIMMED RIBBON. WITH BABY pretty faces and good hearts, but minus a foot limb. Th the only kind I'm looking for. 1f 1 could only find ope who limped on the left side the same as myselt 1 shoull prefer her. 1 might look funny walking up street if my head bobbed down as 1 stepped on my leit foot, when my wite's head bLobbcd up as she put down her #ound 1imb. But then that cowld be ar ranged if we took care to keep step on the game’ leg." Dolby is 49 years old ment in an aiiificial } the clarinet to this countr fifteen arn “Maids with uch has steady employ- mb store and plays He 1s a Scotchman and came a year and a half a He years a bandmaster in the | | | | was for | Er one limb my “and me 1| Best Way to Care Buckacehe, Kaches ere sod by disorder in the Foley's Kidney Cure will make the Take no substitute and and hearts come," the large ' | satld Dolby one that s B Kkldneys. kidneys right Destiny. Detroit Journal: 1 tore my “Destiny is writ!" T cried “Well, the.way you loo% at m | might think 1 id 1t was wrote A the woman, my w and tears Lnocked her head | hair anybody whimp- burst into gainst the plano and BLACHHEADS I Tores, erip: / . red nose, red, included in the | be | | colloge result in estab- | lishment of like clubs in the principal cities | |reliable Tonic Stimulant for left the room aftes all she was but a chiid and 1 could not find it in my heatt to be harsh with her " DEPRESSED? 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