Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 6, 1895, Page 10

WINTER WEDDING Favorite Materinls for Bridal Gowns and Incldentals, NEW YORK, Oct. 3.—In spite of all pre- fiction to the contrary, new wedding gowns t scems, are to differ in no great degree from the old ones. This was d ded to American satisfaction early ig the game of secson changes, by the Ritchie-Tooker wed- | ling, which took place at Newport some | weeys ago. For ‘thou there had been | sorsiderable talk of a possible revision to the old fashioned low neck and bare arms styles, Mrs. Ritchie's marriage bodice, which was declared by best opinfon in such mat- ters as a mode of taste and correctne:s, was the same high-necked, long sleeved shape our brides have worn these many moons. The materfal of this much talked of costume, too, was recognized as a familiar friend, be- ing the thick ivory white duchesse satin that has been so long “'in,” it now seems almost to have come down to us from our mothers. It is decreed that new bridal trains shall be round, and measure just fifty-five inches in length. A single thickness of coarse, white lawn i3 the sole interlining used for these. The front and sides of the skirt are without interlining, having at ‘these points only the taffeta or gros grain silk that lines the rest of the skirt; and a thing to be remembered 1s that these trained jupes are to be abso- futely without crinoline. [For this reason alone, aslde from wedding traditions, whict exact that the bridal textures should be of the best, it is wise to get the h lest silk or satin that can be afforded. As to the shaping of skirts, the old model of three front gores and godet back seems to hold its own The trained Jupes are no exception to this rule, and when made in this way the train and side gores are sewed up together. This is the French model, and it is considered the most elegant and modish of the two, though an English design, which has a full gathered train hanging loose over a petti- coat front is very effective. Where this last 18 used the petticoat may be entirely of or else the same as the train, and decorated with sprays of flowers or a draped lace flounce. The godeted skirt plain, though a very splendid one, lately imported for a November bride, had each seam outlined with a narrow vine of orange blossoms, is usually perfectly RICH STUFFS, more elegant, brocatelle is and threatens to Though not more effective than satin, rival it as a bride material Certain heavy corded silks In almost a bengaline weave—that it, with the slender raised Dbengaline cord—will also ba much used, and two novel designs, fleur de lis or love knots, In the brocatelle, may be sug- gested as superior to the boquet patterns. A marriage toilet Just imported from Felix was of this love knotted brocatelle, and to the sentimental mind the little foolish bows seemed very appropriate. As to the bridal bodice, the only exac- tions are the high neck and long sleeves aforementione This, however, some dressmakers de- clare, 19 only a ‘matter of taste; but when deeply questioned on the point, two of our smartest contourierres declare they would rather lose hundreds of dollars than send a decollete wedding gown from their doors. - Lace and flowers bodice at discretion, may be used on the but beaded stuffs are B. distinetion. Brussels and old English point, Limer- tck and Venetian lace are the webs seen on some of the most elegant of the new wedding gowns. The laco s put on in a way to best show its quality and pattern, Is often, in- deed, made in bretelle and rever shapes, that are spread smoothly over a satin foundation. One charming bodice for a slight figure was made cntirely of a delicate net, on which a duchess leaf was appliqued at intervals; bound satin ribbons braced it over the shoulders, tying there in infan- tine bows, long ends hanging carelessly over the drooping sle:ves. A satin bodico had sleeves of chiffon, that were made so full they hung literally in billows. g A costume of old white brocade, chiffon and Irish point boasted the newest thing in sleeves; one with a great upper arm puft and lower’ portion so tight that it needed to Do buttoned up with a glove hook after the bodice had been fastened. Fancy a ner- vous bride in a sieeve like that! NOVEL SLEEVES. ‘When made in this way the upper por- tion of the sleeve is usually of the silk or satin that composes the skirt, and the lower part of some delicate lace or chiffon, shirred at the inside seam, where silk loops and tiny embroldered buttons fasten it. In no case is the bodice entirely of silk or satin; lace or chiffon must divide them somewhere, though U a lace vein s to be worn the bodice lace must b of the same fabric. Some of the new lace wedding vells are s lacking PALE YELLOW CLOTH. very beautiful, and many are within quite modest reach. The less expensive ones are made of net, patternsd all over with a tiny polnt d'esprit square, and edged with a rich Guehesse border appliqued on. These measure usually three yards and a ing Inserted In the border. These cost from $306 up. Tulle veils are sald in plecos four yards square, though they are generally measured according to the length of the bride and her train, the tulle veil being c idered most elegant when edges touch the bottom of the robe all round. The edgss are left raw and the vell may hanz in four points, or else be shaped o the skirt after adjustment, which, most commonly, is to place the veil over the orange wreath spray of orangs blossoms may also be worn outside, or the tulle bunched to suit the face and pinned at the sldes with jeweled ping or broaches; dia- monds and pearls are the only admissible bride stones, The lace veil often covers only the hair, but it worn over the face the pointed front reaches no lower than the bust line. The 1 out the spot to the many changes had taken place in the within twenty-four years. ‘The Belgian dled destitute In the Cour des Miracles, Later on a person hearing the same name as the present president of the republic, and who was supposed to ba crazy, obtained per- mission from Emperor Napoleon III to search the forest for the treasure at his own cost and peril. This Faure claimed to ba in pos- session of Vanhoven’s plan, but the document, it he had it, was burnod with his hut but a few days after his death. Faure's re- searches were hampered by the war, as what remained of Bondy forest was much damaged by the Germans. These failures have not discouraged the treasure seekers, who are confident in indicated on the plan, owing which wood new the i) l J rounded back follows the curve of the train, but fdlls some inches, often a quarter of a yard, short of 1. These veils are now more modish than tulle and are possessions to be desired. If put to no other use they can be turned into adorable Marie Antoinette fichus for the wed- ding bodice. Shower bouquets are no long=r in high favor. Cut flowers are sometimes carried, a limited number, and orchids or roses preferred, the long stems of these being tied half way down with a satin bow and ends. Many brides, however, prefer to carry only a little white prayer book bound in kid or £i'k, and in the back of (his the tiny handkerchicf may be hidden, or else be tucked snugly away in the belt, the misty lace edge only exposad. Altar gloves are generally of undressed Kkid, and to expedite the placing of the ring, a little rip is made at tue inside seam of the marriage finger. As to the etiquette of a married sister being “besi’ woman to the bride, fashion has declared this quite possible whore there is no unmarried woman in the family. She way also wear white if she chooses—there | is no law againat it; but the best tastes afirm that a married best woman Is more in keep- ing with the altar ethics when her gown is in some delicate color. NINA FITCH. SHASONABLE NOVELTY, B ‘reak o Faxh n. The trimming par excellence for all of the many new and expensive dress fabrics is the button. Buttons have never cost as much money as at the present day, and they have never heen so gemlike. The art of the gold and silcer smith has been employed to de- vise the most beautiful buttons, and the but- ton counter of a large dry goods store looks more like a jeweler's show case than the old-lime department counter, where people bought uscful articles in that line. There are intaglios and cameos in designs which one looks for in handsome rings, beautiful rhinestone settings which glitter like dia- monds, medallion heads on ivory and porce- lain, charming Dresden designs In turquoise, gold and rhinestones; enameled confections after the pattern of old-fashioned brooches come in all the fashionable s'zes. Large imita- tion pearls ate set in rhinestones which re- semble costly jewels, and in price are not far behind them. There are three reigning sizes, ranging from half-inch to one and haif-inch in diameter, and price the bring from 73 aplece to §4 aplece. The old-fashioned way of selling buttons by the dozen has been abandoned except for the ordinary home consumption article, and the buttons of a dress represent an outlay of money in many cases equal to the cost of the dress pattern itself. From four to six buttons are used on almost every gown which a fash- fonable woman wears, There are no button- holes of course, except of the Imitation Kind, for these expensive gewgaws are for ornamentation and not for use. They appear on either side of the collar, on the belt at the waistiine, in the back of the waist just below the nape of the neck and below the throat and a handsome dress of the up-to-date style represents all the way trom $16 to $24 in buttons alone. That the button industry has been given a tremendous impetus by this extravagant application of a once useful article, no one will deny. It re- mains to be seen whether the jeweler's trad will suffer thereby, or whether to keep abreast with his colleague, the buttonmaker. he, too, will have to start out in a new direc- tion and devise novel and striking effects in his line to make a distinction between a great lady’s jewels and the buttons of her dress. Just now they are dangerously simllar and a_pickpocket in a crowd could not be blamed for mistaking a beautiful button at a lady's waist for a jewel many times its value. A QUEEN'S LOST JEWE Faney Jew 1 tons the l.nll-ul] Treasure Hunters toinette's G The Paris correspondent of the London Telegraph writes that some of the inhabi- tants of those breezy districts outside Paris known as Bondy, Ralney and Villemonble are afficted with a strange craze. They are under the impression that a large treasurs of gold, jewels, plate and artistic objects of great value is buried somewhere between Montfer meil and the Fort of Vaujours. A soclety has been formed for the purpose of exploring the countryside, and half a dozen men af- flicted with the gold fever turn out every night with pickaxe and shovel in order to dis- cover the hidden store which is destined, it found, to turn some of the excavators into millionaires and heroes of fortune, worthy to figure as genulne Monte Cristos. Recently the scarchers were temporarily arrested by the local gendarmes. T booted, spurred and cock-hatted representatives of authority had not heard of any treasure being in the viginiiy of thelr beat. If they had they T™=1a in all probability have excavated for it In their off duty hours. They accordingly obliged the treasure seckers to accompany them to the gendarmeric where it was made clear by means of docu- ments and identification that the suspected persons were peaceful shopkeepers and re- Ured functionaries, residing in the districi who bad been impelled by a mysterious cali to shoulder the shovel and go out in quest of burled ore. The supposed treasure had an historic and Interesting origin. It is said that Marie Antoinette, on the eve of the flight to Var- enmes, in 1791, sent a coffer full of gold, jewels, minlatures and important papers to be buried in the forest of Bondy, and that a plan of the place where the precious objects BODICE OF POINT LACE AND SATIN BRIDAL - [ WITH LACE VEIL success of their quest. A ‘local fortune teller is of the opinion that the coffer is in a gar- den, and the owner of this place is accord- ingly delving from morning to night. This is rather disappointing to the others, who are led by an expert in geometry, but they, nev- | ertheless, pursse their work of excavation, 1it- erally up hill and down dale, each fervently hoping one day or night to strike the long lost coffer with his pick or shovel and to cry “Bureka.” NEW Ccor Halr Dressing Fre Modes. This s to be a cold winter for curling irons and, for a time at least, the girl with straight hair is much more in fashion than | her ringleted sister, since new ways of head aressing have arrived this fall. The smartest head, par excellence, is crowned with siiky pale gold hair, the color of a well turncd maple leaf. It must not be distinetly curled nor hopelessly straight, but | show an obliging pliability of texture and | for best effect in arrangement ought mot to | be_too long nor too thick. Next in order of modish favor is the suit of brown, with red or yellow lights in it and, for the time -being,.all false hair and nearly every fringe of bangs bave been swept away by the board. The flat reads if it is possible, do wholly without what the French women call a “face fringe.” For the evening, oval-faced, low- browed girls should pompadour their locks. | To do this draw all the back hair high into 3 cone on top of one's head, brush and comb | out the front and even give a couple of | turns, here and there, with warm tongs to give as much\fluff and =oftness a3 possible, lightly roll back from the forehead, thrust the ends in under the come's base and FURES, Styles of Built on novel Louls of flowers also hand painted, and is square in shape. are very the brassy-looking metal and has large scroll- work designs, cents. gree or open designs and cost 8 cents. are used than tha end of one's thumb. person of r one adopted for framing miniatures. frame pleture a for standing. erally oval in form, sometimes ornamentel, sometimes a plain band of gold finished with a narrow line of bexding or fluttering ribbon, bow and ends tied at the top. | almshouse near Philadelphia. OCTOBER 6 eather, deco n gold and dainty festoons ge. A third is of brown, m«n In delicate tan-colored A beauty in burnt leather is shield-shaped and is intended for three smaller photographs —the carte-de-visite size. & most artistic pattern in holly leaves and berries; In dull greens and reds, the natural tints of the plant It is first burnt in then this pattern is painted over The price of this frame is $4.59. Another much favored style is that done in moroceo of any color—scarlet, warm brown, pale or deopeblew—and mounted in silver. One frame iaafolding piece of cream mo- rocco, to hofd two cabinet pletures, with a narrow, fandully-chased band of silver en- tirely encircly® 38 Another is of dark green, and perfectl; , lacking in trimming of any kind, Silver, both sferling and plated, is shown in a great variety of designs. A handsome frame of this metal gilded is valued at $4.39, and is square in effect, though the center part is round In the opening, about which is a dull, smooth set ng of the gold, from which branch off rays of open work of the same metal, caught with filigree inter-work. Plated frames in silver in attractive models inexpensive. One large enough to hold a cabinet likeness can be bougth for 25 cents Another cheap fashion fs the imitation of Florentine frame. Tuls Is in heavy, A good sized one comes at 49 A chaste style for framing a small photo- graph is the flower band, a delicate line of violets, other diminutive oval or perfaetly round and fs sometimes tied top enamel to match or contrast with the flower used. English ne-nots or 1s square, dulsies, blossoms. forget This or bottom with a knot of ribbons in Tiny fili- They for the setting of o pieture no larger frames come In sterling silver, A le that would take the fancy of a fin:d tast>s is that similar to the These are made large enough for a cabinet nd have a rest attached at the b.ck They are of gilt and are gen- WOMEN ICIANS, Thoussnd Nam ereaning. The first medical diploma conferred upon a woman in mode:rn times was given by the Medical college of Geneva in 1840. At the present time there are nearly 3,000 women engaged in medical, practice throughout th country. Through the north and west they are to be found In every large city, and in many country towns. South of Maryland they are raroly to be found. “For many yoars," says Emily Blackwell, M. D., in the Philadelphia “Bulletin, “‘womén could oniy study in the collgges established for them in Boston, Philadelphta and New -Yerk. Now, not only have these grown largely in means and opportunity, but others have boen es- tablished in Ghicago, Baltimore and other placos. Women, however, are no longer con- fined exclusive! to their own schools. The medical departments of almost all the stat universities in the west admit women as wel! as men. T Statd Univerzity of Michigan at Ann Arbor was the first thus to recogniz the claims of, women to share in educatica in stalo institutions, and has a large cla of women in attendance. The lasi and very important step in the direction of co-educa- i the Admission of women to the new Johns Hopkins Medical school in Baltimore. This valuable opening is due largely to the condition of the liberal endowment given to the college by Miss Garrett of Baitimore. “In connection with medicine women show thy same interest in benevolent work that they do outside of the profession. In New V' Bostgn,” ' Ph'ladelphia, Chicago, sco, apd’ some other places they have blished hospitals and dispensaries i which the service is exclusivily conducted by women p)iysm?‘ns. In the ‘work of pri HyY Three rolled and the vate socletifs @l institutions they arc often active helpeds. As a rule women arc precluded from ’ ng any part in public institntfons,, hosgals, dispensaries, asylums etc. In these, wifli few cxceptiohs, they are not eligible as attending physicians. By a recent enactment there must be one assist- ant woman physician in all.the state hospit- als for the insine in the state of New York A few other states have followed that ex- ample. They may serve as internes in th: In New York City women physicians have served in the summer service for the poor established by the board of heelth, as physicians and in- spectors. One woman physician is employed in the bacteriological service of the New York board of health. But with them and EFECTIVE HAIR DRESSING. fasten, at that point, one of the new bows. This is made of heavy black satin ribbon, in two or three loops, measuring not less than | five inches from tip to tip, and caught In at | the knot by a tiny buckle of brilliants, mock emeralds or sparling jet. Such bows can be bought already made on a long hair pin, and may be fastened in across the top or on the side of one's head. The pompadour and bow is an admirable fashion for the girl whose locks are not as thick as they might be, for she can make the cone in three big hollow puffs and the long, narrow black bow, in hair of any shade, lends an air of infinite grace and dignity. From kinks and frizzes the whole effort now tends in head dressing for the house to what Is most demurely simple and immacu- lately tidy. From crown to brow a corgect white part should show, no coquettish little pot hook can coll in the forehead's center, but_strafght back all the hair is smoothly gathered and twisted into a figure eight, done crosswise and not up and down on the head, o0 that the appearance is as though the hair had been twisted into two little concave, shell-shaped coils. It requires just four straight blonde shell pins to hold this cofl in place and its place is neither on the erown nor on the neck, but at a critical, midway point, below where the pretly slope of the head over the crown is clearly revaaled. This winter the dzbutantes are not going to wear many head ornaments, but older women will, and these chiefly of jet. Huge jet dragon flies with goggling emerald eyes sit on head hands, jet wings also on bands, littlo half coronets of fine black beads, a_few combs with shell teeth and tops made of in- icately spun gold wire, powdered with dlamonds, but none, absolutely nome, of the Jeweled or carved tortoise shell pins. There | is & notion for black-heuded women to wear lace carved, high ivory combs, but how far that fashion will go one can't say, though it 1s a Newport invention. FRAMING PHOTOGRAPHS. Some Charming Novelties for Holding amern Portraits, This season’s latest designs in small frames are extremely pretty and so varied in size and kind that all tastes and requirements can be met. Leather is the rage, and it makes a most effective setting for the face of a dainty young maiden or a debonair youth, while it lends grace to the more mature or less favored individual. A large sized frame in smooth, dark green were deposited were made for the ill-fated queen. This plan a Belglan named Van- hoven, who in the royal service, copled half In length and sell at $65. More splendid ones are of the same net seattering with a @uchesse leaf shield medalions of old point be- for himself. After the battle of Waterloo Vanhoven returned to France and repaired to the forest of Boudy, but he falled to Hnd leather is designed to hold two cabinet plc- tures, one in & square setting at the top to- ward the left hand; the other in oval open- fng below aud at the right. The frame hand painted in sprays of vines and blossoms. One that holds a single photograph Is w a few similar exceptions women physicians are not yet admitted to any shars in th medical service of public institutions. This exclusion is one of the greatest ob- stacles to the professional success of women, since it is in this great field of observati and wids experience that men obtain emi nence In practic THEE NEW CH WOMAN. and Refined S ers Who ing Se The capabilities of the Chiness character, when subjected to the stimulating influences of western clvilization, has been repeatedly illustrated in Audiralia, where the Chinese merchant or storekeeper is often an indi- vidual wholly unlike the hideous caricatures which occastonafly find their way into the illustrated papers. In the country districts of New South Wales, as in thos? of the othe: colonies, wovepal of the largest business es- tablishments are \in the hands of Chinese storekeepers, Who' everywh:re enjoy a repu- tation as enterprising, generous and law-abid- ing citizens. (‘Many, conforming to the man- ners and customs,; of the land of their ado tion, marry, Apstralian wives, attend church regularly,” take an active part in local affairs, and Qisplay a keen appreciation of the advaitages of education, not a few Chinese parefits paying considerable sums for the instructignyof fheir children. Mr. Dang Len, Chee, better known as Ah Chee, affords , & eharacteristic exemplifica- tlon of what may be regarded as the higher type of the, Chiaesc-Australian. Born at Canton in 1839, hy emigrated to Victoria in 1856, where fof qome years he acted as gold miner, storekgeper, and carrier. In 1860 he found bis way dufo the Tumut district, in New South Walcs, where he has since re- sided. In 187 he married the daughter of a crown lands commissioner named Car ruthers, by whom he has one son and two daughtérs. The former, Ying Tang, was ed- ucated at one of the best private academies in the colony, and made such good us: of his opportunities that he is a thorough Eng- lish and Chinese scholar; his command of the two languages, apart from his other at- talnments, being of great service to his father in the conduct of his business The two girls recelved their education In the local public school, where they displayed considerablo taste in musie. After leaving the school they were placed for some time in charge of a leading plano forte teacher, after- ward being sent to Sydney for the purpose of completing the'r mus'cal studies. Subse- quently, Miss Lan Hoy Ah Chee, the elder of the two sisters, pasted with credit the Junior Trinity college (Lordon) examination. Perse- vering in her cfforts she afterward passed bigh in the intermediate cx»mination; her sis- retty 1897 passing the minor examination. Both girls— they are aged 16 and 14 years respectively, have declared their intention of attempting to carry off the highest honors within their reach. They reside with their parents in a pretty villa, furnished tastefully in European hion, In Tumut, where their father, who Is & man of means, Is universally respected. A conversation with the two sisters is ex- tremely nteresting, their abilities and intel- ligence heing of the highest order and giving promise of a brighter intellectual future than is generally assoclated with popular ideas of Chinese womanbood. shions in Stationery, All formal invitations for weddings and receptions, dinner and meuu cards should be engraved upon fine, white paper of ex- quisite satiny texture. The address should be engraved across the top of the sheet. The monogram, if it is used, should be un- der it, and the coat of arms above. Silver and gold, light green, dark olive and bronze are popular in markings. Magenta, biue, pink and buff, besides gaudy combinations of gllt and color are also correct. Mourning stationery is of gray paper, bor- dered with black. The width of this edge decreases as time elapses, and, of courw, Is marked in black. For the season of half mourning ultra fashionable women use vio let paper, bordered and marked in purple, while some select silver gray paper, edged ard marked in slate bronze. The plain em- bossed marking is used by the exclusive, modestly elegant, both in and out of mourn- tng. It is very refined, and has a nice eftect if the die has been cut by a skillful artisan. Before the beginning of the soclal ason it 1s well to understand the changes that fashion has dictated for up-to-date station- ery, for nothing distinguishes a refined and careful person more than his or her letter and note paper. Cream white, heavy linen paper, fitted in square envelopes, octavo size, 13 to be used for all formal correspondenc Many tints of paper are also used. Robin egg bluz and ellver gray are popular with some persons, and lavender, cafe au lait and pink have thelr votaries. The smaller sizes of paper envelopes are to be used for writing notes, The coat of arms, crest, monogram or fac similo are rarely used upon the flap of the envelope, s thought to be in better taste to hide personality. The paper comes cheap , even in the best qualities, but the decoration and finish make the ex- pense considerable. It is far better, however, for the women of refinement to economize in the belongings of dress, if need be, than to Ieprive themselves of suitable and elegant stationery. Exclusive women usually have two dies. One the leave with their sta- tloner, along with their card plates, and the other they have et in a silver top or handle to use as a seal. Seals have by no means been discarded, and the dainty escritoire is not complete in appointment without the small silver can- llestick and wax cafidie, accompanied with mnuffers to smother the flame after the scented wax has been used. Dinner cards and menus have attained the height of ar tistic perfection. The designs are well-nigh adless, and the hostess may choose from 1 variety that is bewilderiug. Happy is the woman who can use her brush or pen dipped in India ink for appropriate designs for her woman friends when she invites them to lunch or dinner. An xquisite Com Donald G. Mitehell (“1k gracefully inscribes his n Lands, Letters and King nne and the Georges,” to Mrs. Grover Cleveland: “My Doar Madam: Many bookmalkers of that early Georgian perlod covered by this little volume cagerly sought to dignliiy their op2ning pages with the name and titles of some high-placed patron or patroness. It is not, my dear madam, to revive this practice that I have asked permission to inscribe this little book to so worthy an occupant of the presidential mansion, but rather I have had in mind the courteous reception which—while yet an in- mate of a college on the beautiful banks of “ayuga lake—you once gave to some portions of the literary talk embodied in these pages and remembering, furihermore, the unswery- ing dfgnity and the unabating womanly gen- tleness by which you have conquered and adorned the *trying conditions of a high career, I have wished to add my applause (1s T do now and here) for the grace and kindli- ness which have ennobled your lite and mad: us all proud of suéh an example of American womanhood. Very respectfully yours, DONALD G. MITCHELL. eminine Notes. Mme. Sarah Grand is one of the latest converts among literary women to the joys of the bicycle. Mme. Rejane tells a London interviewer she does not think an artist should attempt being a soclety woman. Ouida is certainly timely, even if sensa tional, in the title of her new novel “Toin." 1t is founded on the discovery of anti-toxiu It is said that a Dr. Jennle Taylor, the daughter of an American Methodist minister, has gone out to Africa as a “‘dental mission ary,” Miss Waite, a niece of Chief Justice Waite of the supreme court of the United States, ix ne of the residents and most earnest philan thropical workers at Hull house, Chicago. Patti's doings in Wales, at Craig-y-Nos, arc cld stories, but amoung her other charities t the Welsh it is not generally known that the railroad that she built to run from the castle to Swansea is used by all who wish, fres of charg Mrs. Potter recently told a friend that she had not been allowed to sce her daughter since her return to this country. She wants ter own mother to bring up the child, bu the Potters profess not to like Mrs. Urquart's record in that fleld. With the death of Mrs. Azenath Turner at Manchester, N. Y., the last revolutionary war pension of the Empire state ceases. . She re- ceived a pension of $12 a month, but this amount was subsequently increased by spe- 1 act of congress to §30. At the time of her death Mrs. Turner was 89 years ofd. Mrs. Margaret Sangster, the editor of Harper's Bazar, does more signcd writing out side her editorial duties than any other editor in New York. Religious poetry 1s one of the fields she is conspicuous in, publishing mucl of her work in denominatioral religiou papers. She is a Congregationalist. At the recent wedding of Miss Margare! daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Kendal, to a son of Captain and Mrs. Bancroft, also of stag: remown, it 1s reported that “Mre. Kendal magnificently attired in pale mauve moire, officiated energeticall Mrs. Kendal's American audiences will be inclined to think she certainly did. A heavenly census is now being taken by the Parls observatory; to count the stars the heavens are photographed in sections. Some of these sections show only a dozen stars, while others of the same dimensions show over 1,500. The work 1s carrled on under the superintendence of a Mme. Klumpke, a “Doctor of the Sclences.” Miss Dorothy Baird, the Trilby of the Lon- don stage, wears a very striking costume for the concert scene of the play. It is of cream white crepe de chine, ~embroidered with beetles' wings and jewels, and falling down the front are two long stole ends embroidered in like manner; to complete the classical effect sandals are worn instead of shoes. Ellen Terry has had all her kith and kin up before tae camera to furnish her with pho- tographs to bring to America. The two things she never travels without are a tea-making outfit and a full collection of family photo- graphs. She puts these last in her steamer baggage and always has them out to decorate her stateroom on a voyage. Mrs, Margaret Custer Calhoun, widow of Lieutenant Calhoun, and known fo many as the beloved “Sister Margaret” of Mrs. Cus- ter's descriptions of army life, has been in- vited to recite a poem on “Blue and Gray day at the Atlanta exposition. Her accept ance will mean an enjoyable performance, as Mrs. Calhoun possesses high and unusually pleasing elocutionary talents. Kate Field jestingly recal's the time she carried an English bathtub all the way to Denver with her. She had an idea that the west was in a wild and savage condition and that none of the appurtenances of civilization was o be found there. You can perhaps fancy how mad she was when she learned at the very first hotel she patronized that every apartment was provided with an ad joining private bath. Another bright thing Miss Field did when she visited Denver was to bring letters of introduction to people who had been dead seven years. The empress of Germany fully shares the military enthusidsm of Ber husbind, as was demonstrated at the close of the maneuvers at Stettin recently, when she appeared as colonel of “the cuirasslers of Queen Loulse,” a regiment of which she has been the honor- ary commander for some years. In a very soldlery uniform, & white cloth habit, with liment, Marvel”) thus English ter, Miss Lan Ho Ah Chee, at the same time scarlet faclngs and gold lace on collar and cuffs, and mounted on a splendid charge, she rodo at the head of the regiment, leading them first at a trot, then at a gallop, before the critical eyes of the kalser, the emperor of Austria and the king of Saxony. Mrs. Christine Terhune Herrick has devel- oped a new field of usofulness for the chafing dish, whose services in behalf of the bachelor supper, home luncheon and Sunday night tea have been duly demonstrated by her. This is its valuable ald {n cooking for the sick and its admirable supplementary work to that of the trained nu Mrs. Herrick goes soon to St. Louls, Pittsburg and other western cities for a serles of lectures on this particular branch of the subject, and later will be heard in New York. As an expounder of the my teries and possibilities of the blazer and spirlt lamp she is an indlsputable authority. Fashion Notes. Many of the new capes are finished with a largo sailor collar of fur or velvet. A pink taffeta is veil«d with muslin dec- orated with trailing bunchs of flowers down each side Lace or chiffon over satin fa used for even- ing waists, some of which are ablaze with spangled garnitur Some of the new black lace medallion pat- tern<d insertions for panels, petticoat fronts and walst and sleeve decorations are a quar- ter of a yard wide. In trimmings a novelty is ostrich tips of gray, laid flat and open, rather than curled, Joined with a heavy passementerie of smoked pearl ornaments. At a recent wedding the green of the bride’s bouquet was myrile cut from a root that was grown from a sprig taken from her mother's marriage bouquet. A view of new autumn miilinery leaves the Impression that the one and only idea of the designers has been to see how much garni- ture and how many colors could be jumbled into a given space. The fall cycling hats are of the softest folt crowns are indented, and have turned-up brims, and the sole trimming is a band of ribbon with a wing or quill. The hats are all as light as a f-ather, but very pretty Exquisite hand-painted muslins are likely to be the rage | the immediate future. They are as delicate and flimsy as cobweb and yet the painted decoration stand out plainly against the sheen of the underdress of silk. Tartan velvets and black and white check velvetssare trimmed with satin ribbons and cut steel buttons, and glossy moire, Persian fur, or. narrow bands of rich brown fur trim velvet w to be worn on the promenade in lieu of a wrap. Immense em| e bows with buckles of glit- tering Irish diamonds in the ceonter are set upon round hats of fine French felt, trimmed with velvet. Other large bows of ecru-col- ored guipure are covered with spangles, and have a narrow edge of fur along the selvage side of the loops. Tha new beits are not belts at all, but stroight girdles, some as wide as seven inches. They are shown in various mate. rials, from gold and silver to leather, some plain and some spangled, all provided with huge buckles. The stour, short-waisted woman will do well to admire and leave them—in ths shop window. New plaids are constantly appearing, and those who admire and can wear them have ample scope for choice this season. The Forbes, the Mackenzie, the Gordon, Camp- bell, and th: famous Forty-second Tartans are all in evidence. Thesa plaids show much combination of green, with black and blue or red with black, the union of colors which fashion just now particularly affects French coats of smooth-finished cloth, im- ported to wear with various dresses, come in dark shad:s of russet brown, green, blue. and the always popular black. Among the models is one of Russian green cloth, made with full skirt, the upper portion of the cont trimmed with velvet and richly jetted pa menterie, a singular addition being a broad bias band of black velvet encircling the waist Some of the newly imported black toilets are exccedingly elegant. The combination of black and white is still in highest vogue and has the merit, if artistically designed, of giving a_distinguishcd appearance to the wearers, Black lace over white silk and chiffon Is lovely. Black satin duchess is frequently used for the richly trimmed skirt of the dress, with a white satin bodice as its accompaniment, draped with white chiffon. Among the dressy toilets for autumn are those of crisp taffeta in Dresden or old chintz patterns, the skirt made up over morcen interlinings. Some of these are in colonial style. Others” are more fancifully made, with sash and ribbon trimmings matching the hue of the chintz or Dresden design. The patterns and colorings of these silks, intended for demi-dress uses, rival most sucessfully the much more expensiv ovening silks whose devices they so closely copy. Wide handsome ribbons are again to fall from the nape of the neck a la Watteau on evening dress bodices. Ruches, Empire bows, coquilles and choux of ribbon, and sashes tied on one side or at the back, will be every- where in_evidence in the world of fashion Bows with long loops and ends will be worn on the shoulders, and ribbons will lie flat on dress skirts, narrowing toward the waist, and leagues of ribbon will b2 used on millin. ery, both for autumn and winter hats and bonnets. The new chameleon silks of the season make up very handsomely with plain surahs which show one shade of the changeable silk dotted with silk of the other tint. For ex- ample, a violet apd green shot taffeta is com- bined ‘with a lustrous French surah of mig nonette green, thickly dotted with silk spois of a beautiful heliotrope shade, a trifle less rosy in hue than the violet color in the taffeta. The skirt is gored, and the medium length Louis XIV. coat has immense flat revers of green velvet lined with violet silk Yellow brocades made up in Josephine or Marie Antoinette fashion will be exceedingly fashicnable for full dess toilets this winter Yellow brocade is an eminently rich lookin textile in any of the various shades in which brocado is produced, the floral patterns glim- mering with either silver, pearl, or opal ights. A brunette with or without color looks here best in one of the deeper tones- Jonquil or buttercup, for example, and blonde women, once zaid Mr. Worth, “‘can just as well wear many of the yellow shades as they an st in the sunshine.” They often look most charming in delicate canary or primro relieved with lace. Yellow Is a color that shows up most attractively under artificial light, and looks rich, warm and sumptuous against blue, green and many of the lovely dyes in mauve, which unfortunately takes on metallic lights under gas or electricity. It is an excellent foil to black, however, and does not kill red when in proximity. ou cannol go sof fo the opera JEwithout gaining o whiff of THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME. Flowery, refreshing, delicale and lasting. - For sale by druggists only. IMPERIAL CRGWN PERFUMERY €0, SAINT LOUIS MEYER BROTHERS DRUG €O.,AGENTS. ALSO TRY {WEDDING BELLS| Two newie ‘eRénn" | PEACHBLOW. | odors. THE SWIFT ACTION of Humphreys' Specifies can only be coms parved to an electric eurrent, This action 1 obtatued throngh the eapiliarios the pellots are hardly. dise upon the tonguo beforo the eure conts and nery solved mences, centros “7" FOR COLDS, Dronchitls, Laryneltls, Influcnza, Coughs, Honrseness, Clerg, £ Throat; Grip, Hay Fever and Poeumonta. From the first Chill or Shudder to the droad Poeumonta “77" {8 & Specific and Cure. T9 will sbreak up' a Cold that or men's Catareh, “hangs on. Disordered Stomach, Dyspepsia, Indigostion, and weak Stomach earry 0 their wake more misery than paverty. Dr. Humphreys' Speeific No. 10 velfoves prompte Iy, and by Its continuons use a porfost and pors manont eure s assured. RHEUMATISM. Next 1o the sourad Dyspsptic may be elassed the erabbed Rheumatie, ther. fortunato Rueumatism when Dr. Humphreys discovered his Specific No. 15, 1t acts upon the Liver and Kide iminating the Urle Acld from the blood; 0 follows swittly and surely. MEDICAL BOOK. Dr. Humphre who suffers from evory indeed for sufforors from neys, the ¢ S Duts up a Specific for every dise They are deseribod in his Manual, which e sent free on request Small bottles of pi pocket; sold by dri price. or tive fol Co., 111 and 113 W nt pellets -fits your vest 1818, OF sent on recelpt of $1.00. Humphreys' Medicine liam i, New York. ta fren W, Broadway, OPIUM or HORPHINE HABIT PAINLEGSLY & PERMANENTLY CURED DR. S. B. COLLINS’ PAINLESS O FPIUM ANTIDOTE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY, Discovered In 1868. “*THERIAKI" Book Free, Oftice 312, 78 Monroe Street, CHICAD, ILL, P.0. DRAWER 851, " DR.LOBB'S BOOK FREE o nli sufferers of Errorsof Youth and Diseases of Menand Women, .08 pages, cloth bound. Treat- ment by mafl strictly confidentiul. Cure guaran. teed. Call or write. Dr. LOBB,2:9 N.15th St., Phila, WILGOX COMPOUND =H=ANSY® PILLS Safeand SURE, Always rellable. Take nosubstitute, Forsale by all droggists. $2.00. Send de. for Woman's Safepuard. WILCOX SPECIFIO €0.,228 SOUTH EIGHTH ST., PHILADA., PA. gei R ey 'PATRONIZE HOME INDUSTRIES By purchasing goods made at Nebraska factorles. If you can mot And what you want communicate with the manuface turers as to what dealeis handle thelr goods. the following BAGS, BURLAP AND TWINE. BEMIS OMAHA BAG CO. Manufacturers of all kinds of cotton and bur. iap bags, cotton ffour sacks and twine a spece aity. 614-616-618 8. 1ith-St. BREWERIIS. OMAHA BREWING ASSOCIATION. Cas load shipments made In our own refriges iator cars. Blue Ribbon, Elite Export, Vienna Ixport, and Family Lxport, delivered to all parts of ity CARRIAGES AND T L L SINPSON, 140911 Dodge-st. Dbest and cheapest place to buy a good Bugky, Carrlage or Wagon. Agts for the best rubber tire in use. " DRUAMOND CARRIAGE €. put rubber tires and ball bearing axles on thefr wh make vehicles, and sell & top buggy for $30.00 besides. Write them. 15th and Harney. GONS, NG POWDER. e st ety it e CONSILIDATED COFFEE (0., Coffec Roasters, Splce Grinders, Manufacturs cis German Baking Powder and German Dry i{op Yeast, 1414 and 1416 Harne: Omaha, Neb FLOUR. < S, F. GILMAY. Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flou B. Black, Manager @maha. FURNITURE FACTORIES, OMAHA UPHOLSTERING CO. Manufacturers of Parlor Furniture, Lounges, Jining Tables and Folding Beds. 25th ave, i2oyd to Shaler Sts. ICE AND COAL, SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND CDALCD. Domestfo and_Steam Coal. We OfMce 1601 Farnam-st. Telephone: Office yard, i766. J. A. Doe. General Munager. e IRON WORKS, INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS, ‘Manufacturing and Repairing of all kinds of machinery, engines, puraps, elevators, printing preses, hangers, shafting and coupilugs 1408 and 1498 Howard-st., Omaha. "PAXTON & VIERLING 1R0N WORKS. Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work. General Foundry, Machine and Blacksmith Work. Engineers and Contractors for Fire Proof Bulldings. Office and works: U. P. Ry and So. 17th street, Umaha, TTMACTRESSES, 00T, L. G DOUP. Manufacturer Muttresses, Spring Beds: Johhes Feathers and Pillows. N. 14th and Nicholas ts., Omana. T NIGHT WATCH, FIRE SERVIC. AMERICAN DISTRICT TELEGRAPH. only perfect protection to property. Exame ine it. Best thing on earth.| Reduces Insur- ance rates. 1304 Louglas-st. OVERALL F. T RATZ-NENINSCO, nts, Shirts and Overalls. 202-212 8, ITORL Clothing, 1th St PAPEK BOXE THE OMAHA PAPER BOX CO. anufacturers of all kinds of Paper Boxes elf Boxes, Sample Coses. Mulling ‘Tables, vte. Wudding cake and fancy candy boxes, druggist ud Jewelry boxes, 1:08-10 Jones-st, Omabe. SHIRT FACTORIES, J. H. EVANS---NEBRASKA SHIRT CO, NEW YORK CITY, 1} W. Mtheat. (ad). Central Ronrding und day The Jacetot School iy il Mile FROMENT, Mrs. C. L. MORGAN, Principaia Fall term beging Octoler 1, 1%, Frospectus went ou application. g )