Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 8, 1895, Page 18

I P i LB A 9 A e U AL 52 A 9 9T M V5 e AR b i B THE OMAMA DAILY BEEx SUNDAY, SCHOOL CLOTHES, ns for the Little Maids and Men NEW YORK, Sept. 6 month of sore trial, both in flesh and spirit, to the very young person and her brother, who are now making periodic trips to town in search of suitable clothes for school and the winter. Along with the solid comfort and Tiealthful protection a good deal of French daintiness in taste s being commingled in Juvenile fashions this autumn. Over from France have come, for little girls, any number of novel fabrics, and the whole objec. now seems to tend toward bringing much cheerful color into school and street gowns, by the use of stripes and plerced cloths. The stout flannels, as soft Iadfes’ cloth, are dyed in at least four har- monized tones, showing yellow, red and brown laid in narrow bars on a dull blue ground and ait tho tones employed almost Oriental in richness. Occasionally these flans are figured, displaying a small Persian pattern, done in blue and yellow on an Indian red ground, and then, in pretty contrast, are the plerced cloths and wide wale, loose woven serges, of which the first good use was made in England. 4 However, as everything comes from Paris bearing its own stamp of originality, it is not surprising to find that this season’s serge frocks for school girle are sent us embroidered elaborately, in place of the more tamiliar braiding. KINDERGARTEN GOWN. Here, for example, is one prepared for a Kindergarten graduate, of soft, dark blue Cowes serge. The skirt, laid in wide box pleats, flares at the hem and is adjusted to & short-waisted little body, almost covered by a great five-pointed coliar falling capewise over the shoulders and full sleeves. Deep about the hem of the skirt, all the width of the collar and up to the elbows, runs a wide band of black and red embroidery, a skeleton pattern, worked out in a twist of mingled silk and wool and done with a big poirted fvory pin. The effect Is at once gay and most suitable to the littie wearer, whose skirts, as is now the mode with all woman- kind under 14, fall only just over the round- ing points of the knees. In place of long skirts, stout ribbed, knitted stockings will be worn, of a rich blue, with gich a gown as is described above, and show- ing fine red silk clocks above the shoe tops. When out of doors little leggings of soft, heavy suiting, to match the color of the dress, will be buckled over just the legs, from' ankle to high on the knee, and 50 protect tender young limbs from any un warranted exposure. The shoes themseclves, it may be well to remark in passing, are nearly all this winter made very high buttoned, the foxing of stout, dull, black suiting, and the small Antumn Fashi ptember fa a and heavy as SMALL REGIMENTALS. vamps at the back and front of patent leather. Indeed, without a touch of this bright varnished leather the child of the season is scarcely dressed within the pale of fashion, for shoes, school bags and belts are all made of it, and little boys are going to wear very soon demli-billycock hats of dark blue, green and brown felt, clasped round with wide crown bands of patent leather. Walst belts of this material are sold with the dresses for girls, that are as simple as the most sensible mother could ask and can be casily made at home, should economy de- “mand it. A SIMPLE SCHOOL DRES Of the striped flannel the cut shows one, and to give the proper effect let the skirt be wide, quite ungored and gathered with equal fulness into all parts of the waistband, A deep hem finishes the bottom, and a flat, broad linen collar or narrow upstanding row of whipped-in lace completes the neck, while the middle of the wearer's little body is clasped by a broad patent leather strap and buckle of the same material. With two or three of such capital gowns a school girl is dressed all winter for her daily tasks, since to freshen the pretty suit It is only necessary to baste In at neck and slecves every morn- ing little turnover collars of lace edged mus- lin, easily done up in the Kitchen by the family nurse or housemaid. Not a whit less commendable is the bi warm school and street bonnet, de- signed to replace this autumn all previons fashions in hoods and hats small moidens have uncomplainingly and s often unbecomingly worn at the re- quest of their mammas. This bonnet Is meant to comply with the new and picture- like mode of dressing a little daughter's hair. No bang is now permitted, but all the Jocks are parted from the forchead to the crown. Two side plec or heavy ringlets, are brought forward, to hang curl- ing down the inside of each shoulder, while the rest falls unconfined over the back. This odd big bonnet, an adaption from that worn In colonial times, is made of braided felt, decorated with® soft flat bows of bias silk or bunches of dark hued feathier tips on the crown and tied under the chin with & wide short bow of satin ribbon, When it is a bonnet for Sunday school wearing and the sult is blue this big hood, of dark blue braided felt, fs trimmed with mushroom- like bows of rich cream white satin ribbon, and just inside the coquelish shovel brim A FRENCH MISS, s fastened a tiny cluster of little pink silk wosebuds or blue velvet forget-me-nots, THE NEW PINAFORES. More serious sometimes with the mother who considers her dauglter's wardrobe con- sclentiously than beauly or variety of tollets is bhow to keep whatever may be provided whole and clean, For this reason, because Uttle girls will be little girls, forgetting all the tenets of heedfulness and cleanliness always neat and present Let her take a look now at the ne: , made expressly | for the school girl of 1895, and stand con- vinced ,that those of brown grass linen are incomparably useful and pretty garments. For the quite incorrigible child, who needs one or two changes of apron a day, the best and most economical pattern is the pina- fore, made In three long straight breidths sewed together, hemmed at the bottom and arranged at the top with a casing to run a draw string through at the base of the upper hem. Two holes are cut in the top side r:f this great square and plainly hemmed or frilled about, then the pretty result is shown in the cut of the simplest apron In the world, to be laundered as easily as a face towel ora pillow case, A pattern equally nice is outlined by its | side and in the original was made of brown | ] they had satisfled themselves that every- thing was all right. The receipts were un- usually large, so that there was a consider- ablo sum for the Masonic association, while the company lost nothing by its “generosity One reason why the receipts were o large was that the new conductors adopted the methods of the charity bazaar. They gave no change. If a man handed one of them a quarter he was told pleasantly that “‘we do not give change today.” 1If he was ‘‘mean and stood up for his rights, which he v ashamed {o do generally, the conductor looked reproachfully at him and he was carried as far beyond his destination as possible. Most of the men, being unwilling to make a scene, submitted to being gouged. This shows what men will put up with from women, and how easily the latter can trample on them and deprive them of their FROCKS FOR £ e LITTLE GIRL grass linen, its wide collar edged with plerced white muslin embroidery and the big sleeves, with muslin cuff, arranged to button snugly at the wrist. Evideutly the popularity of the pinafore is guaranteed to reach a great height next winter, for lovely ones there are prepared, more for ornament than utility, of finest white nainscok or pale tan grass lawn with richly embroidered deep falling collars caught with bunches of Dresden ribbon cn the shoulders and then a broader ribbon run- ning through wide beading to form a sort of girdle just under the arms. WARM TOP COATS. There are some small growls of resistance when reft from their delightful last ays these little boys and girls are put 1gh the tedious drill of try'ng on their stout top coats, which in wise precaution are already prepared against the coming of that first cool wave presaging winter. Ziballines cloth and a light weight of English and Scotch frieze are the two stuffs used almost to the exclusion of all others in buttonel wraps for children. There is a fine, rich shade of red In the zibelline that is univer- sally adopted, made up with no other trim- ming than that of stitchings and big dark smoked pearl buttons, as the little coat in the double cut shows, with its dstachable cipe and hood. Of the dark green and brown freize young sters of both sizes will wear smart litile surtouts in colder weather caught down the front with five big rcund silver buttons and long skirts set on, without godlets, to the close fitting, plain bodies. But prettiest of all the new fashions for school children is the extensive use of the handsomer Scotch plaids. For girls these are made up in long cape coats falling free to the hems of their small petticoats, with hoods to draw close, with ribbon frills about the face and the whole garment lined with a pretty plaid silk. LITTLE HIGHLANDERS. The boys, many of them, will be put bodily this winter into Kilts over short plaid trousers, with knitted golf stockings, high laced shoes, blue bonnets, the coat and shirt of ordinary cut and color and a plain leather pouch swung from the shirt belt. 1 Boys who have outgrown their kilts with the kindergarten and attend what they proudiy call a “real school,” have persuaded their mothers to lean mora and more to a military uniformity of garment, until we bid fair to evolve a distinet dress for our school boys, as is seen in England. Dark blue, al- most the naval biue, is the color preferre CORRECT SUIT FOR A BOY. these school suits, with all the decorations done in black silk braids and black enameled buttons, The caps are blue, trimmed with patent leather and 5o accoutred the young men regard themselves as well equipped for study, games, and above all for their pseudo military drills, without which no properly conducted boys' school dares offer any in- ducements to its pupils, ANNY ENDERS. WOMEN AS CONDUCTORS, Bay City Women Mun the Street Oars for u Day. On several occasions within the last few months organizations of women which wished to raise money for some particular purpose and which had exhausted the ordinary methods, such as the strawberry or ice cream festival, have persuaded the publishers of newspapers to allow them to run their sheets for a day, doing all the work and pocketing the proceeds. There is no harm to any- body in that and the readers of those papers aro not likely to complain if for one day only there seems to be too strong a tinge of femininity to them. But the women have gone a step farther, relates the Chicago Tribune. Not satisfled with running newspapers, they are setting in to run street cars after the same fashion. Tho members of the Women's Masonic Tem- ple assoclation in Bay City, Mich., were in need of some money. S0 they asked the ofticers of the electric car company to give them a portion of one day’s recelpts; on that day tue ordinary conductors were o be re- placed by members of the association. As it 15 a liitle risky to entrust electrical ap- paratus to green hands the women did not ask to be allowed to serve as substitutes for the motormes. The company saw its profit {n this proposition and aceepted it So Thursday the women collected fares while the regular employes had a holiday, Whenever one of the amateurs got tired there was another ready to relleve her. This was a wise precaution, for the collecting of fares for ten hours is not easy work, e pecially whei it has to be done on an open car and the conductor has to crawl along where a jovisl romp is concerned, the mother ‘who done away with pinafores has done away with her own pe of mind and the wery first principle by which a child 1s kept rights. 1f a passenger thinks an ordinary male conductor has kept back even one little nickel he will keep up rowing about it as long as he is on the car and will write an dignant letter to the company or the papers, in which he says that he does not care for the money, but that he feels a great principle is at stake and in order that that principle o be vindicated he tries to e pe paying his fare whenever he can. But that same man is an utter coward. In view of the fact that as soon as what has happened at Bay City becomes generaily known other street car companies will be importuned by other women to allow them fo uct as conductors for a day, so as to make some , it ought to be understood that the collection of treble or quadruple fares is all wrong and should not be tolerated. It is practicing robbery under the guise of charity. 1t women want to play the part of con ductors, so be it, but if they cheat any one let it be the company and not the public. But the simplest plan will be for the com- pany to give its check for whatever amount it wants to and keep the women off s cars, except as passengers. ATHL] 1c hpnced Sportswomen of Upper Austrin, Never have I seen sweet Ischl so charm- ing as it is this year. To begin with, won- derful as It may appear to those who know upper Austria, it hardly ever rains, and one can enjoy to its fullest extent the beauty and peace of thig delightful sojourn, writes the Baroness Wallsee in. Vogue. Since my arrival here I have wished more than once that American, English, and even French women, comld watch for just a littie while our sporiswomen at work. No offense meant to this trilogy, of lovely beings: but still, in spite of the'undeniable beauty of Uncle Sam’s daughters, in spite of the grace- tully athletic deportment of their English sisters, and last, but not least, in spite of the unrivaled “chic” and “dash” of Parisiennes, yet none of them know the secret of being thoroughpaced sportswomen and of joining in the favorite pastimes of their husbands and brothers without becoming, ipse facto, either masculine or a little too, too—well, what shall I call it—emancipated?—from those laws of sweet femininity which will ever remain woman's greatest charm. Now our great ladies over here carry their love of nature and of sports of all Kinds so far that it seems to be born in them. During the summer months they fly away to the mountains of their own splendid country, where they climb to the loftiest summits, and from whence they descend the most dangerous ice slopes with the swiftness and security of practiced mountaineers; they fol- low the chamois on narrow ledges of rock which would give any other mondaines the shivers to look at from below; they are as sure-footed as goats; they row like Oxford graduates; they shoot, they swim and ride— 0, how they do ride! and they smoke cigar- eftes by the hundreds, but they do all this without losing one iota of their grace and of their winsomeness. No bloomers for them! No costumes or aititudes which make one hesitate as tc the sex of the being before ono's astonished eyes. A pair of perfecily fitting knickerbockers worn under a short tweed skirt, a waistcoat of chamois leather half concealed by a ‘‘Joppe” or gray cloth, many-pocketed, green-passpoiled jacket, and a Tyrolese hat adorned with a chamois beard; tall gaiters of untanned leather and stout boots, and they are ready for the mountain. Equally compact aro their riding habits for summer or winter wear, without any frills, ribbons, or lace collars, and gauntlets such as T have seen occasionally fluttering about amateur sportswomen who knew no bette poor. things, but still who ought to have ac- avired knowledge from competent people in order to avoid these mistakes which stamped them at once for ignoramuses of the decpest dye. 1 remember that during one of my stays in London 1 cnce heard a celebrated English diplomat say to a_country cousin of his: “My boy, it would be better for you to break the ten commandments than to eat your green peas with a spoon or to use your knife when you are partaking of fish.” ‘I feel in- clined ‘to alter this wise remark in the fol- lowing fashion for the benefit of any candi- date whose aim fs to enter society by the right door: Break all the commandments it your conscience permits you to do so, for, much to my regret, I am forced to acknowl- edge that one meets with queer characters in the highest rank of life, but for mercy's sake remember this: If a thing deserves to be done it deserves to be well done, however insignificant it may be, and, what is more, no amount of “dash” or “airs” will ever re- place the true refinement which permits a well bred woman to encroach upon the do- main of the sterner sex without in so doing becoming this horror of all horrors, a virago ~—anglice a “new woman." ISCHL'S GIRL The Thoro Carrying the Mid-Day Meal and Mak- ing It Appetizing. There are very few men who are willing to carry a lunch basket. The reason is not readily apparent to women, for a nice, littls willow affair is the daintiest as well as best receptacle a lunch can find. However, those who do carry them do it under strong pro- test, and are secretly pitled by their more emancipated brothers, who, likely enough, have their mid-day meal concealed in their coat pocket, from which they will produce it, a shapeléss mass, when wanted. A cold lunch s not good for any man or woman either, as far as that goes. No mat- ter how nicely arranged and put up, it is not appetising. The different odors of bread and meat, fruit and cake, mingle in onme Inde- scribable smell never met with outside of a put-up lunch. Dyspepsia and indigestion nearly always follow a two years' course of such diet. Whenever practicable, it is better to arrange with a restaurant to supply a dally dinner, but when this is impossible, the greatest care should be taken o make everything palatable, and, as far as possi ble, suited to the needs of the individual. Thore Is & great difference o putting up lunch for a man who works mentally and the side. Happily there were no casualties, None of the conductoresses got tangled up in thelr skirts and fell off, and the motor- meu were specially eareful not to start til one who labors physically, For the for- mer little Is needed In quantity, for no one can work thelr brain to fits full ea. pacity whoss stomach is loaded to reple. ton, On thg.other hand, & physieal laborer n;n;?l good," strghgthening food, and plenty of As before stafed, a pretty little willow baskoet I8 as ulv} 4 thing as can be found for a lunch, but for those who decline to carry it there ars some substitutes. A paper package whould never be used. It i¥ alike distastefuf} (o sight and taste. Tt does not kecp'its shape, for one thing, allowing the br to break .and crumble to bits, #ifle it is Impossible to add littls dainties in xt:; way of proserves, ete. A pasteboard. bk {is also open to many ob- Jections. In hlarge railroad office, where all tho clerkd earry thoir dinner, the most fastidious use a tin box made to order of the size most fancified. It takes up littly room, ie handy to carry, and does not pro- claim to every beholder, “I am a lunch.” The repast of most clerks is very light. A couple of dainty sandwiches, a little dish of preserves, and an apple or orange. The dinner kettle is too well known to need any notice. But there is a large class of cated men, likeclyil engineers, superin- tendents of furnaces, etc., whose work car- ries them from home every day, who wonld revolt at a kettle yet decline to carry a bas- ket. Lunch they must have, and must like wisa carry it fow to do it was solved by an engineering ‘‘gang,” and it was astonish- ing the number who followed their example and still do so, A nice looking “gelp”. was purchased of good size. Into this was fitted a tin bottom, which could readily be taken out. The side pocket “was tacked to hold salt, sugar and pepper boxes, knife, fork and spoon. Small bottles of mustard, catsup and a tiny flask of brandy were ranged on the other sid Into the tin dish the lunch was laid on a fresh napkin, with another spread over, and yhat a fine repast could be packed away in Some things should never be packed in any lunch, cantaloupes, onfons, bananas, for in- stance, for their odor permeates everything and is very annoying to a dainty appetite. But many other things can be used that few think of. Soup, with all the grease skimmed ofl, baked beans, rather dry suceotash, peas, stewed tomatoe all these are relished by an cutdoor worker. The hest way to put them up is in glass cups with serew tops. A nice, ripe tomato to be cut up when needed, a baked potato, with the insides scooped out, mashed and seasoned and returned to the shell; a glass of stewed fruit and, if liked, a bottle of cold coffee or cocoa. The sandwiches are better not made and wax paper is a necessity. The should be thinly cut and buttered and wrapped in paper. Then the meat, also in paper, put In separately. Potted tongue is a nice change, but this must be put on the bread at once. An addition of mustard nice. Ham is not as nice as beef for a lunci for one tires of it so much sooner. Properly prepared, a lunch is as much trouble as a dinner. To make it appetizing, there must be a little change every day. Many articles which a man declines to eat at his own table he will relish from his lunch bag. Cold fish, for instance. It takes much diplomacy to keep a.man from fault-finding over his mid-day meal. The clerks “afore sald” attached an apparatus to a gas jet in the office and made coffee, which they sold at 2 cents per cup, this just covering the cost of materlals. The company, without any formality of asking, paid for the gas. This beverago was a veritable godsend to those men who had just a bare half hour for re and lunch. Outgide workers do not often lavo this chanee, but the cold drink will often fill theiv-ywakit of liquid refreshments, Then, oftentimes, feir work is near a spring, and then a bgttls of lemonads or root be can be coolefl,, With a little thought an care this lueh c§n be. made a very fair meal, and a fan will appreciate the trouble much more than if he ate at his oyn table. up, bread Rev. Anna Bhiw's Interesting Colony at Seitet Winn Lovely woman, lovely rew woman, has made an extraordinary advanced step in an out-of-the-way place on the coast of Massa- chusetts. Here sHfe is living in an interest- Ing community of her advanced sisters, who believe in fréedont of dress, and fearlessly practice what they believe. The place is an exclusive little spot, and is called Wianno, They wear what they believe most health- ful. No men are included in this com- munity. During the summer months the woitien ‘make this'd world of thefr own. Rev. Anna Shaw is their leader. These women believe, says the New York World, that freedom of limb and the smallest possible weight of clothing is necessary to enjoy to the full the out-of-door life they lead. For boating and fishing they all wear di- vided skirts ending below the knee. When they bathe they wear no skirts. There are no puffed sleeves and no corsets in this little Brook Farm community of earn- est dress reformers. They believe that in order to bathe prop- erly a woman shonld reduce her suit to the smallest limits. So, to prevent their move- ments being hampered, they wear woven jer- sey tights and tunic. In fact, they wear a regular man'’s bathing suit. These women come from different parts f the country. They come from as far west Kansas. Sometimes there are nine. Son times there are as many as sixteen or seven- teen. The number varies with the arrivals of guests, who are tinually coming and going. Some are miidle-aged. The majority are young and pretty. The girls show the effects of their manner of life and methods of dress. Al are graceful. They know how to stand and walk and breathe. They have studied the structure of the body. They cut loose from everything that hampers thelr move- ments. * Their shoulders are thrown back. heir heads are carried as the maker of the human_ body designed that they should be held. They carry themseives as the beauti- ful maidens of ancient Greece did, They all look forward to accomplishing something in the world and they want to be physically fitted to carry cut all their ambi- tions. They look forward to living and enjo ing all the advantages of belng a woman, They believe woman has a right to live and think and mark out a life for herself. One of the prettiest girls said: “I'm glad I didn't live twenty-five years ago. What a place this must have been when man denjed woman the right to work for her- self!” All are workers. The tall girl, with an air that ought to have at least $65,000 a year for its support, is an independent Philadel- phian, who is going to do great things some day in designing artistic dresses. Some are wives. They have left their lusbands at home. Married or single, elderly or young, eich woman in this com munity is against petticoat The youngest and most advanced girls wear knickerbockers. Older ones wear di- vided skirts. Matrons add short skirts over the gathered bifurcated garments. In the house all these are changed for pretty col- ored dresse These are also made on health lines, On dressy occasions they wear gowns of artistic shades and materials artistically made. - v No one In the,gqmpunity is a howling dress reformer. Nof one of them could be hired to wear a pair of 'bloomers down Broadway or a less pretentidus city street. On six days the members of this munity wear bfurfdted garments and chase health and strepgth. On the seventh they wear ordinary gowns and observe the Sab- bath. At all times it is a God-fearing, moral community under Rev. Anna Shaw's roof. When the membgra of the community gather about the table their heads first bow in silent grace. Among those tu this Eden were Miss Shaw herself, Miss Wilson of Philadelphia and Mrs. Harriet Taylor Liptop, daughter of ex-Con- gressman Taylon of Ohio. Mrs. Upton has been engaged Ip suffrage and other work in behalt of womets'for ‘years. She is a light- ning worker, alweys:head and whole of all press committogs:at Washington conventions of women. Hor bead was built for facts and the arranging of them so a newspaper man knows what he s getting. She has the reputation of being the best natured woman in the entire suffrage ranks. Wherever Mrs. Upton is everybody around suddenly feels good natured. Then there was Miss Grace Green of Kan- #as. She is Miss Shaw’s niece. Nicolas Shaw is the quaint name of another nlece of Miss Shaw. Miss Nicolas is quite ac- customed to being asked where she got the forelgn name. It was originally from some Russian ancestors and has been handed down in_the family for years. Miss Lucy Anthony, a niece of Susan B. Anthony, s the young woman who runs the domestic machinery of the community. Mi Grace Anthony is & sister of Miss Lucy and is & student at Drexel lustitute in Philadel- phia, She has made physical culture a special study. Not one of the occupants of Eden Is a bi- cycliste, They don’t care for that scrt of baven't time. One girl sa'd: SEPTEMBER 8, 1895. “Why, T would rather have my money for other thinge”” So that fsn't why the Eden- ites take (o bifurcated garments so gracefully, A Datnty Baby Careinge. A dainty baby carriage 18 ono of the things which every mother likes to possess and yet a nice one is, as a rule, very expensive, One mother, howcver, succeeded so well in mak- ing a really handsome buggy at a compara tively smail expense that a description of it may ald other mothers to achleve equally satisfactory results In the first place, she bought at second hand a plain but well made willow carriage with easy springs, The body of this she had en- amelled with French white enamel, which gave a very handsome and lasting finish. This she succeeded in having dome for $2 The next step was to upholster it anew. For this purpose she used cream white corduroy and did the work herself. It tock time and some patience, but was not really d'fficult, The edges were finished with cream white furniture gimp and the result was most en- couraging. The strap of the buggy was cov- ered with a full piece of white wash silk with a full bow and fringed ends tied in the middle. The parasol was a plain cream white sateen. A cover for this was made of fine white Swiss mull, accordeon plaited and fastened at the top with a bow of the wash silk. when done was exquisite and those friends to whom she confided the secret of its cost could scarcely believe that the total amount expended was but $12. Fasl Notes. Bordered changeable taffota silks are an- nounced. Black, golden brown and dark green velvet capes of moderate length will be very much in evidence this autumn. Velvets of every kind, pl:in, p'aided, striped, chameleon, repped and moired, wiil be in use for two seasons to come. Crush belts and collars made of richly col ored plaid satin or taffeta silk will be very fashionable accessories on bodies of dark gowns. The well equipped wardrobe has one under, skirt of fiber chamois in it. This is designed for wear beneath an unlined serge or cheviot skirt. Large orders have been placed with manu facturers for lustrous white corded silks and lieavy but soft-finishcd cream and ivory-white satins for evening toilets. Brown crepon trimmed with putty-colored grass cloth will be a faverite combination of color in the season of brown leaves and with- ered grass. Every woman who beasts a coat-of-arms is having it cut in one of tha semi-precious stones, llke cat's-cye or sardonyx, and set in a ring or umbrella handle. Correct young women have made to order for each of their walking dresses a pair of galters exactly matching the skirt in color. These they wear with low shoes, either patent leather or of calf. Lusterless colored black silk is worn by others than those in mourning. ~ Combinel with sapphire blue, apple green or cowslip colored _velyet it makes a handsome dinn gown. The deep sailor.collar wh ture of wash dresses t summer will be equally popular in the fall. An interlining of fiber chamols will give them the necassary stiffness. Pink in every tint and tone will be in high voguo this winter for evening toflets, dressy opera toques and bonnets, for trimmings and linings, for black velvet round hats, and for lining velvet and cream cloth capes for bail and theater uses, Salammbo is a new delicate shade of rasp- berry pink that is combined with scveral beautiful tints of green in evening toilets of Marie Antoinette brocade, showing an ex- quisite floral design upon a rich background shot with pink and green. Some of the new fall jackets have rolling collars, which may be Worn turned up or down. Their shape is preserved by an inter- lining of fibre chamois, the utility of which seems to be without end. Bows of stiff ribbon, ospreys, quills and wings are the trimmings most favored for fall wear, They ares et upon the hat with a sort of mathematical precision,.which is very charming when the hat adorns a fresh young face, but which s trying in the ex- treme to worn ones. The toque and the English turban are set beside the sailor and beefeater hats as claim- ants for fashionable favor this fall. The little *h has been a fea- exception rather than the rule. One of Mra. Ward's reasons 18 that some kind of sliding seat 18 on the eve of Inventlon, or has been invented, that s going to revolutionize cyo ling, and this cannot be used with a skirt, Miss Flora Lucy Stowart, one of the young Bnglish women who were vietims of the recent Chinese outbreak, had been at Hwa- Sang only three years. She was a daughter of a vicar, and came of missionary stock, belng grand niece to Charles Stewart, a well known Canadian_ missionary, who afterward became bishop of Quebec. Her frequent let- ters home have been in the most cheerfut spirit, and in the last one she spoke of her happiness in her work and her determi- nation to continue it. Miss Marion §. Parker, the first woman to graduate from the engineering department of Michigan university, has entered the office of the resident engincers and architects of the Astor estate in New York City, upon | precisely the same basis that would have been granted a young man. Miss Parker | stood well to the front of her class in col- | lege, holding her place by dint of unflagging industry. She has the “(alent for hard work,” which is sure to bring her success in this comparatively new employment for women. Mme. Ponisi, whose stage old women were beloved by all who saw them, has concludea her life in New York by the gift of all h stage costumes to “Aunt Loulsa” Eldridge. In the forty-five years sho has been on the stage in this country she has played many roles, and the contents of her wardrobe rangéd from the robe of the grand dame to the cheap frock of the village matron. When Mme. Ponisi began her career she went twenty-five miles on foot to secure her first engagement. This was in England, and it was nothing unusual in those days for her to walk from town to town to keep her en- gagements. In time she won fame, and she has_supported Macready, Forrest, Charlotte Cushman, Lester Wallack and others. She expects to end her days fn Washington at the home of a stepdaughter. Miss Celina Gray is a young woman of { Oklahoma who will probably soon have some unique experiences, She has rceently been appointed United States commissioner for the Third judicial district of Oklahoma. This is the first appointment of the Kind of a woman in the union. The duties of tne place call for close application to work and unrelenting activity. Miss Gray is a pretty young woman of 24 years, who went to Okla- homa in “the early days.” Up to this time she has been ‘‘just like other girls.” In.her new position Commissioner Gray will be mpelled to come in contact with all manner of men, from the common Indian whisky seller to the frontier killer, but since she is a bright, accomplished young woman of nerve and determination she will probably suc- ceed. Mme. Christine Nilsson vizited her Swedish birthplace, near Wexio, and all the peasantry, of course, turned out, the men to cheer, the babies (o be kissed and the elder giris to strew flowers in her pathway. Mme. Nilsson remains on her brotier's farm until.after the marriage of her favorite nephew. The Nilssons in the early forties were an extremely poor, but industrious couple, leasing a_tiny farm called Sjoabol, on the estate of Count Humilton, and having a rather hard time of it. Both father and motber, indeed, worked on the patch of land. Many times it has been said that little Christine sang in the streets of Stockuolm for a living, but this is a fiction. When quite a child she was taken in hand by an ex-prima donna, who once sang under the stage name of Mlle, Valerius, and who, after her marriage to Baron Leuhusen, settled down on an estate contiguous to that of Count Hamilton, From this kindly lady little Christine received her first lessons and after a short time under Berwald of Stockholm, she sang at court and also early in 1860, when only 16, she ncert at Stockholm. Her friend, the baro- ness, took her to Paris and placed her under Wartel, teacher also of Trebelli and Marie Roze. CONNUBIA Nell—What was Mrs. Newlywed's maiden name? Belle—Her maiden aim was to get married She—I'll marry you, George, it you_can satisfy father that you can support me, He— Do you think I could get him to play poker with me Just once? Thero may have been other contributing causes, but the fact that the Ohio girl who eloped with her married pastor was the pioneer of the red bloomer habit seems to have the right of way. Jongressman Dolliver of Towa Is going to French toque is a greater favorite than the turban because it is becoming to more faces than the latter hat, and also because it ad- mits of so very many more ways of trim- ming. The box pleated Norfolk waist reappears among costumes and toilets for the fall. It forms a part of utility gowns of mohair, tweed, cheviot, shepherd's check, camel's hair, serge, etc., as well as the bodice portion of dainty toilets of corded silks, fancy taffeta, crepon, plaided surah, flowered satin, and a host of dressy materials. A low, round-cornered walking hat in brown, trimmed with brown ribbon, close balls of brownish red ostrich feather and brownish red osprey is a pretty piece of fall headgear. Brown and yellow and brown and red are, by the way, two of the favorile fall combinations. A brown hat ablaze with nasturtiums ranging from pale lemon color through glowing reds and into rich brown is a triumph of the milliner's skill. The long favored mutton-leg sleeve seems to be quite as popular as ever with ladies’ tailors and dressmakers, whether correspond- ing with the corsage or made of some con- trasting fabric. The bishop and Queen Anne shapes also continue in favor and although they fall from the shoulder in flat, unstif- fened effect, they are quite as wide and full as ever, their greatest width and fullness being arranged to droop over the close fure- arm in which they almost invariably termi- nate. There are quite as many tempting shades of blue among the autumn and winer dyes as in green or brown. Among them are the lovely grayish sifver blues, often more becoming to women of neutral type than any other color. Thera are likewise the ocean blue, Bengal, cadet, swallow, and the revived peacock blue, but of a shade so dark that it is much like the sup:irb Neapolitan and Roman blues that are seldom se:n out- side of rare Oriental paintings. The Rus- sian and marine blues appear among hand- some tailor cloths for fall and winter coat- ings and costumes, Modistes report many orders for velvet blouse waists in black, brown, green and dahlia_color. These velvet garments give a yery rich effect to a costume at compara- tively small outlay. They look very stylish over skirts of crepon, corded silk, satin, repped wool, or taff or, indeed, any pretty skirt ‘like shepherd’s check wool or mohalr that is cut in fashionable shape and gracefully hung. It s practically im- possible to get the sleeves of a velvet walst into the sleeves of a jacket without ruin to the velvet one. Nothing but a cape Is to be thought of in such a case. The velvet blouses for cold weather wear will be lined with outing cloth or other soft flannel in order that they may be worn out of doors without the addition of a wrap. The piti- less blasts of winter preclude all thoughts of a silk-lined waist for the street, unless worn above a fitted chamols bodlice. Fe nine Notes. Mrs. George J. Gould is very fond of sitting for her portrait. Mr. Gould has In his possession twenty-three different paint- ings of his wite. Patti was born In Madrid in 1843, but was brought to this country when a year old. A portion of her childhood was passed in New York City. Mrs. Charlotte Smith of the Woman's Rescue league of Boston has taken a reso- lute position against those clergymen ®who | say to erring humanity: “Come to Jesus” and then go off to Burope on a vacation. Mrs, Frances Hodgson Burnett has extra- ordinary notions about bringing up children. Hers have never been allowed to be cor- rected since they were born. However much they may have outraged the traditions of good behavior, sense of shame and the force of example were the only remedies permitted It was as much as 4 governess' or a servant's | place was worth to forget this rule. ! Brooklyn's municipal service has an oft cially designated “‘draughtswoman” in Mrs Eva A. Weed. She is employed in the City Works commissioner's office, and draws salary of $70 monthly. Mrs. Weed was polnted atter a civil service examination of 108 conpetitors, all men, and made percentage of 94. Ehe Is the first woman tc be appointed to such a position in the city of Brooklyn. Mrs. Humphrey Ward current Idler on “Woman on Wheels,” con fesses to a projudice against bifurcated gar- ments, but thinks, however, that the time is not far distant when the skirt will be the \ in a_paper In the get married. He is 40 years old and has arrived at the conclusion that it is not well for a_man to live alone, His bride-to-be is Miss Pearsons of Fort Dodge. “I hear,” sald Diana the Huntress, as she ted her toe for an Instant on the pedestal ‘that Pygmalion is In love with Galatea “Indeed!" ejaculated the Bust of Minerva; “well, it's a cinch that he gets the marble heart,’” James McElroy, who died recently at Stratford, Conn, willed his wife to James Nugent, who was his barkeeper. The widow married Nugent immediately after the funeral and deeded half of her property to him. She—I—I fear, Mr. Sommerman, that our engagement has’ been a mistake. He—Now, ain’t that a nice way to serve me? You know it has been only three months, and I told you, when I gave you the ring, that it would take me six months to pay out! In Tacoma, Wash., a man sat up all night in a mountain ice cave with a young lady while the thermometer stood at 20 below zero. Before morning he had propofed and had been accepted, which all goes to show that there is less danger in fooling with a buzz-saw than with a sumfer girl, even in cold weather. Under the new law which went Into effect in New York state September 1 it is an offense, punishable with imprisonment, to marry ‘a girl under 18 without thé consent of her parents, and clergymen who per- form the ceremony are liable to be punishea as accessories. It still remains true, how- cver, that when a girl of 18 has made up her mind to marry the best thing her parents can do is to consent. Wesley A. Hunsberger, the marrying parson of Milwaukee, did a rushing business, as usual, Sunday. But his fame as an_ expert at tying nuptial knots came near getting him into serious and unlooked for difficulty. He had to invoke the aid of the police to dis- perse the rabble which collected about his door to watch the bridal procession. *Yes, I marry more couples than any minister in Chicago,” he said to a reporter. “I married eighty-seven couples in August. In July I married eighty-one and in June sixty-two. I average nine couples every Sunday. The high water mark was reached the 4th of July, when I_marrled twelve. 4You cannal go 1o the opera withoul” gaining 2 whiff of PURPLE THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME. Flowery, re{reshmg. delicale AZALEA ond lasting o For sale by druggists only. IMPERIAL CROWN PERFUMERY (0, 5 'SAINT LOUIS. MEYER BROTHERS DRUG €O.,AGENTS ALSO TRY (WEDDIHG BELLS) Two new NUNYON'S TRIUMPH. The Fight Agzflnsl Dissase, Polsozou§ Drugs and 01d Fogyism Declared in His Favor, Mr, J. Rau In the Story of re. Mr. J. Baumer, 42 East Twenty-first street, Bayonne, N, J., says: ghteen months ago T was so crippled with rheumatism that 1 could mot dress myself. I tried all the doctors In Bayonne, but they gave me up as hopeless. 1 tried numerous preparas tions, but failed to find any relief. At last 1 heard of Munyon's Rheumatism Cure and began using it. The effect was marvelous, I improved at once, and found that less than two bottles were sufficient to cure me coms plotely, as 1 have not had a twinge of rheus matism since.” Munyon's Rheumatism Cure is guaranteed to cure rheumatism in any part of the body, Acute or muscular rheumatism cured in from one to five days. It never fails to cure sharp, shooting pains in the arms, legs sldes, back or breast, or soreness In any part of the body In from one to throe hours. It is guaranteed to promptly curo lameness, stift and swollen joints, stiff back and all pains in the hips and loins. Chronie rheus matism, sciatica, lumbago or pain In the back speedily cured. Munyon's Homeopathic Home Remedy com= pany, of Philadelphia, put up speifics for nearly every diseas which are sold by all druggists, mostly for 25 cents a bottle. Those who are in doubt as to the nature of thelr disease should address Professor Mun yon, 1505 Arch street, Philadelph'a giving full symptoms of thelr disease. Professor Mu yon will carefully diagnose the cise and givo you the benefit of his advice absolutely fres of all charge. The Remedies will be sent to any address on receipt of retail price, 7MO|§EY P;flor Gas Burner. 9 5_9 Handsome,S: wewals (gua For Cut, Patent, Terms. &e.. write to MOREY. LAGRANGE. ILL: “Tansver Safeand Always reliable. Toke nosubstitute, Fo Ists, §2.00. Sond WILCOX KPECIFIO SIGITH ST, PHILADA., PA. PATRONIZE HOME INDUSTRIES By purchasing goods made at Nebraska factories. It you you want commuilcate the can not with the turers as to what dealers handle tollowing find what manufac thelr goods. BAGS, BURLAP AND TWI BEMIS OMAHA BAG CO. Manufacturers of all kinds of cotton and bur. lap bags, cotton flour sacks and twine a spece lalty. G14-616-618 S. 1lth-St. BREWERIE TSR T S e OMAHA BREWING ASSOCIATION. Ca: load shipments made In our own refriges rator cars. Blue Ribbon, Elite Export, Vienna Export, and Family Export, delivered to all parts of city. A 1. SIMPSON 1409-11 Dodge-st. The best and cheapest plac to buy a good Buggy, or Wagon, Agt, for the best rubber in DRUMMOND CAKRIAGE C0, put rubber tires and ball bearing axies on thelr own make vehicles, and sell & top bugky for 18th and Harney. SPICES, BAKING POWDER, CONSOLIDATED COFFEE C0., Coffec Ronsters, Spica Grinders, Manufactur- ers German Baking Fowder and German Dry Hop Yeast, 114 and 1416 Harney-st.. Omaba, Neb Loun. T GILMAY, of Gold M ger. Manufacture C. B. Black, Man: al Flour, Omaha, FURNITURE FACTORIES. OMAHA_ UPHOLSTERING (0. Manufacturers of Parlor Furniture, Lounges, Dining Tables and Foldiug Deds. th ave., Boyd to Shaler Sts. — —— 1 ICE AND COAL, SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND COALCO. Domestic and Steam Coal. We have the best. Office 1601 clephone: Oflice 373, yard, 1766, 3. A. Doe, General Manager. INDUSTRIAL 1RON WORKS, Manufacturing and Repairing of all kinds of machinery, engines, pumps, elevators, printing preses, hangers, shofting and couplings 1408 d 1408 Howard-st,, Omaha, PAXTON & VIERLING IRON WORK turers ot Archiice ok i \gineers and Contractors for Proof Bulldings. Office and works: U. P, and Bo, 17th street, Umaha. MALTRESS COTS, CRIBS, e DT Manufacturer Matiresses, Feathers and Pillows. N, Sts., Omaha. Bpring Beds; Jobber Hih and Nicholas CTUKING CHEMISUs. THE MERGER CAEMICAL COMPANY, Munufacturers of Fluid Extracts, xirs, Syrups and Wines, compresséd triturites hypo: dermic tablets, pills and sclentific medical nov- elties. Omana. MINERAL WATER, * HEDESSA MINERAL WATER CO, 200 8o, 1th st, Tel. 2. Medessa Mineral Water, Carbonated, unequalicd. ¥laln for table use unsurpassed. LEGRAPH, The only perfect protection to property. Exame ine it. Best thing on carth.| Reduces insure wnce rates. 1304 Douglas-st. OVERALL FAOTORIES. KATZ-NEYINS €0, IMPERIAL DEACH BLOW, | 0dors. cRoWn = — Manufacturers of Men's and Hoys' P Shirts und Overalls. (202212 8. Clothing, wh et PAPER BOXES SR " THE OMAHA PAPER BOX CO. Manufacturers of all kinds of Paper Boxes, Bheil Hoxes. Sample Cases, Mailing Tubles, vtc. Wedding cake and fancy candy boxes, druggist jewelry boxes. 120810 Jones-st., Omaha. e == = = == SHIRT FACTORIES, J.H. EVANS---NEBRASKA SHIRT CO. Laclusive custom shist tallors 0