Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 16, 1895, Page 10

10 THE OMAHA DAILY HWHE: SUNDAY, JUNE 16 1895 sCe=0=0o TJGDCTTCJT_IDDQDDDDDC'DMDJDL-JE]'—DDD—P WOMAN'S DOMAIN, ] Le0e0=0=0sebololelololele0=0o0-0=0=0=00 LiGHT Comfortable Undorgarments for the Som- mer Neason. NEW YORK, June 15.—Curious and mani« told are the expressions of the Trilby c First it was a baker who caught the fever and stamped his ples with pictures of the | falr model, in coat and loose | slippers, ‘made f Trilby cigarettes eprang up, thers were Trilby corsets, Trilby shoes and Trilby ways of arranging your back hair And now the very latest thing In Trilbyism 1s a night dress In ecrue batiste, | trimmed with yellow valenciennes, that bears | the name of the wonderful singer of Ben | Bolt Whether or rot Trilby was given to such | elegant robes de nuit is something Mr. Du Maurier does not record, but the new night | gown dedicated to her memory comes straight from y's Parls The batiste Is as pallid as ch and of a veil-like fineness, and in s wn borders somewhat on’ a painter's blouse and that of the French Plerrot. All the full- ness hangs from the shouider seams, and the bottom, which is short enough to escape e floor all round, {s turned in a simple The sleeves are bishop shape, held t at the fuside seam with a narrow in- sertion of the yellow lace, running length- ; they fall in a loose puff to the elbow, where they are finished with a batiste flounce vith edging of the lace and inzertion let in About the neck and shoulders the Trilby night dress is adorable. First, there is a vast sailor collar of the batiste, made vaster with rows of Insertion and lace until it falls low on the arms like e, and (nside of the wid this again there is a full lace that hugs the throat and tke ¢ at the » chiin, pol lar s made to sides, by beln extra wid he fullness plaited into the neck band, back and front. Altogether this dainty specimen of lingerle cails to m anything but the strapping young woman after whom it Is christened. But it may have beon suggested by the clair de lune song Trilby sings, which Is all somebody who has urgent need of a pen, and of a hard hearted Plerrot who won't his door. At any rate it is enchantingly lovely—and like most lovely impracticable to a degree. ASY AND BEAUTIFUL. r new underwear, 1t 1s plain to night gowns, be seen that fashion has had reform in b mind. Never were women’s nether garments more comforable, or more agreeable to the eye than now. The best things are all hand made and fashioned of the most fragile quantities, French batiste and dimity, which are so de- lightful for summer wear, being favorite ma- terials, Others are white nainso: or nainsook delicately patterned in tinted stripes or fig- i China linen or Persian lawn, which has the glint and caressing feel of silkaline, and whic the shape of tricky flounces is much uzed for tri ning under petticoa of colored cambric or lawn. Sometimes foolish, fixey night dresses in dotted mu that may be te or tin will be seen Ribbons or lace trim these to elaborateness, and as serious contract to the silly things, there are plainly made skirts, chemises and drawers in ecrue ponges that ave offercd for Lraveling purposes and other busy wear. New York shopping and wheelwemen are taking up these pongee underthings, which aro sald to have all the cocl virtues of thinner ones, besldes everlasting qualities. The faint ycllow of pongee is not ob- jectionable, though it cannot be denied that white nether garmients, and cotton at that, are: better - taste. Other silk underclothes, with: the ‘exeeption of the colored petticoats and ribbed undervests that have somohow ,.T’uwn indispens.ible, are cons;ic tous by th ir ul COSTLY NEEDLEWORK. Fine stitchery marks the lingerie of the elegant woman. Ordinary people buy suit of white American lawn daintily trimmo. with valenciennes that sesm nice enoug for anybody, but the feminine elegante dec! ler fair body with fragile, soft finished cot- tons, loaded with needlework, and is con- selous of her superiority. The most pleasing things creato an im- pression of surpassing simplicity. Besides the stitchery, which is in the form of her- ring bone, feather stitch and tucks of miro- scapic slenderness, thore 15 usually only an additional edging of narrow valenciennes, A chemise of fine whit nainsook, with these decorations, fs cut slip shape, with a turnover baby bib fn two points, made entirely of the needlework and edged with tho lace. There are no sleeves, the arm- holes being simply outlined with the lace, the bottom Is made wide enough to take the place of an under petticoat, and In length it comes to the ankles, where It is plainly lemmed. This is the favorite and most use- €ul model for chomises There are chemises, and uightgowns as well that have bottoms frilled and tucked like skirts, but by fastidious persons the Nhemmed edge I8 considered better form, Other chemises bave puffed fronts, in a more delicate texture than the garment that above and below the bust are drawn into the figure by baby ribbons run through lace Deading. One adorable little model that formed part of a suit of three articlos had a front In two oblong embroidered pleces that took the curve of the bust and tied low at the conter with daisy ribbons. This chemise and the nightdress and drawers that went with it were of the new figured nainsook mentioned, white, delicately patterned with cool, dim blue. AN APPROVED PATTERN. The drawers were the short, wido shape that have long been popular, the bottoms belng finished In deep points made of the A BATISTE GOW handworked nainsook between rows of valen- clennes Insertion; they were edged with a frill of wide valenciennes that gave them a tull flouncing look. Another dalnty and becoming drawers model has bottoms that come up to a point above the knee, when they are finished with full roset the so-called *‘wash” ribbon. ‘This ribbon, which has a smooth glace finish, is seen on all fmported underwear, and is warranted to stand water like the proverbial open, and In some cases with a tinted edge, is much seen on nainsook garments that are intended for common use. Lace s also in favor, and especially for Aressy petticoats. The skirts are gored, but are made to look full with overlapping founces, the lace edging them, and being let in by hand between strips of the rial Lawn in varlous degrees of fincness seems to be the favorite petticoat stuff, and the | m effective laces remarked were either Russian or a new and curious one called “llerre."” A LOV LACE A familiar design in a French lace is very lovely: and if it has ready been dis- covered, 1ok for a cr.amy net, throsgh which | is run’ a thick white band looped like a wattean ribbon in garlands, and tied at the points in love knots. It is most charming. Just the thing, too, for dressing sacques, and all the dainty garments | 1 batiste d dimity that, | made up, some women are buying for night | dresses and some for wrappers Corset covers are een, but little bought Modish women have discovered that the thin, &lip chemises, worn over the corset, are more comfortable and effective than the old- fashl light corset bodies; though loo: they are too fine to aNect the fit of the out side garment. A woven silk undervest is worn next the body. As to corsets, a certain little combimation corset and body In the market 1s worthy of consideration. ~ The body ltself s in light ¢ drit, with a ba in two s and a single front dart; a put of mull covers the bust, - and, narrowing to an inch width, extends over the shoulders all around. Seams are lapped, neatly stitched and whaleboned, and the neck puft is held in place by narrow ribbon slipped through the inevitable beading. Tiny pulfed sleeves arranged in the same way. Tor slight figures this seemed an admirable corset compromise, for, of course, the woman Is rare who wlshes to discard this much abvsed article entirely, NINA FITCH. S8 OF WONE ational Convention in n Leudon, of the World's CONG A Demarkable Int Sension The joint biennial two short years ago poor King Lobengula reigned over his savage subjects. There aro unions In Asia, In Malaysia, In Mon- golian domains; in India, in China, and in Japan. Mrs. ‘Leavitt in prosecufling her werk employed no fewer than two hundred and twenty odd interpreters and_translator In this way both the idea and the organi: tion have been carrled iuto nearly all the places of tho earth. The very first sugges Christian _Temperance small and uninfluential body, might ever be- me an international or a_world's confedera- tion, was made by Miss Frances B. Willard To most of her hearers it seemed atiful poetic fancy, but not a possibility n oany way. Seven years later the growth of the order had been so great that when Miss Willard suggested drawing up plans for n that the Woman's rfon, then a very a world's organization her proposal was ac cepted us a matter of course. The plans were accordingly prepared, and in 1885 a tem- oted by the el porary organization was ef - tion of Mrs. Margaret Bright Luc: as the first world's president. The cholce was a very wise one, for Mrs. Lucas was the sister of John Bright, the great commoner, and en- joyed popularity and social prestige almost as great as her brother, She was on friendly terms with all the leaders of British politics, and possessed to a rare degree the tact and discretion imperatively required for the office to which she was elected. The next presi- dent was Miss Frances E. Willard, who was cted in 1887, and has held office ever since. She i3 to preside over the convention in Lon- don, and thus far seems to b2 the unanimous choico of the delegates from every part of the world for president for the coming term. The other members of the hoard of officers are Mrs. Leavitt, who I8 honorary president; Isabel (Lady H.) Somerset, vice president at ary A. Woortbridge of Chicago, ary; Miss Anna A. Gordon of Evanston, 111, a religious hymn writer and composer of church music, is assistant secretary. The office of treasurer was filled by Mrs. Ella F. M. Williams of Montreal, Canada, one of the great orators and executive officers of the Dominion Woman's Christian Temperance She signed the call for the present s only a few weeks ago, and immedi- y threafter was attacked with pneumonia, which terminated her career. At the head of the British organization Is y Henry Somerset, who has been its presi- since 1800. She has gathered around her a circle of women who wield a very wide fluence in Great Britain. Some have been selected on account of their literary ability, others, like Mrs. Ormiston Chant, for ad- ministrative capacity, and still others for their high social position. Lady Henry is a born politician, an aristocrat by birth, educa- Women's Christian Temperance union and the Bri Won mperance clatio; was opened last Friday in London. There have been previous conventions of both ! bodies, but never before was there one so large, so composite and so representative. Every civilized country s represented and the proceedings ars conducted in thirty larguages. The story of its birth is related by the tlon, wealth, and marriage, but a thorough democrat in her speech, manners, habits and TRILBY NIGHT ROBE. New York Sun. There have been temperance societies in England and America as far back as the memory of the oldest inhabitant goes and as much further as he claims to have heard about, but it was not until 1874 that Miss Frances E. Willard, Mrs. Louise 8. Rounds, Mrs. Mary Clement Leavitt and a score of other women conceived the notion of starting a temperance socicty upon a broad, non-sectarfan Christfan basis. The moment they put their idea into practice it met with a success that was almost magical. Local union after local union was formed, until the whole country was dotted with societies like & country meadow with dandelions In the early spring. In 1876 the American system crossed the Canadian border into the land of our northern neighbors, and with one spring leaped across the Atlantic into Newcastle-on- Tyne. In Canada it preserved its simple mame of Women's Christian Temperance union. In England it took the title of the British Women'’s Temperance association. By 1852 all three organizations had grown S0 great as to be recognizel factors in re- ligious if not in daily life. There were unions in every state and territory of the United States and even In far-away Alaska; there were unions In every province of Can- ada, including Manitoba. There were branches of the British Woman's Temperanc: association in every county in England, Scot- land, and Wales, and not a few in the Emer- ald Isle. Not alone were the branches of the three socteties numerous and well organized, but they were also prosperous and well offi- cered. Each had mouey in its treasury, en- Joyed an income from its membership, and, in general, was led by women of more than ordinary ability, The system pursued by the women was and is one which tends to make the members of a club good speakers and debaters. Beyond this the practice of having a literary bureau and of publishing large quantities of much better reading mat- ter than the old school temperance socleties were wont to supply, made the more active members extremely well Informed and pre- pared to address miscellaneous audiences, These were probably the chief causes of suc- ces, but, whether they e or not, one thing is certain, the Woman's Christian Tem- perance union turned out some capital »eak- ers and executive officers. Any one who has studled their work and attended their larger meetings has had occasion to recognize the tact and diplomacy of the leaders and the forensic ability of thelr regular speakers. Amopg the foremost women are Miss Frances E. Willard, Miss Ellzabeth U. Yates of Maine, Mrs. J. Ellen Foster, Rev. Anna How- ard Shaw, Kate Lente Stevenson, Mrs. Clara Hoffman, Mrs. Anna L. Diggs, Miss Edyth Archibald and Miss Jessie Ackerman. Their admirers have even gone 50 far as to declare that the nine best orators in either the senate or the last houss of representatives would mot average so high as the women named. In 1883 the leaders determined upon doing regulav missionary work, and be by sending organizers out Into other lands, by opening correspondence with friends and be- lievers in the common cause, and by dis- tributing campaign literature. This work succeeded from the first, and has gone on ever since. The two greatest missionaries are Mrs. Mary Clement Leavitt, who is now the honorary president of the World's Wo. Christian Temperance union, and Mis: Ackerman, a Boston girl, who is now president of the Australian Woman's Temperance union. While the the Christian rag. As bows, rosettes and ties it decorates evorything, when slipped through Ham- burg beading In closely worked squares it makes itself an effective and easlly accom- plished trimming. Lawn skirts that bave a deep Souace that full by the upper portion belug laid are sometimes headed In this way. English embroldery of awn, very i ;gfl' AT i O major part of the missionary effort has pro- ceeded from the United States, neither Can- ada nor Great Britain has been far behind. The result of all this tireless endeavor is Something amazing. Thers e unions in West Indies, Mexico, Central America, and South America. There are unlons in every country in Europe except Portugal and Tur- key; there are unlons In Africa, and one has even been started far up lo Matabele, where assoclations, She owns a fine estate and uses it as headquarters for the great army of her followers. These are of little importance to an American, but in Great Britain they have a world of meaning and a power for untold good. Although the masses are op- posed to the temperance idea, and favor the great brewing Interests, yet they have so pro- found an admiration for Lady Henry that If a vote were taken tomorrow in those counties of the south of England where her estates lie and wherea ske is well known, it would prob- ably be In favor of her cause and against the thirsty desires of the voters. Another bright particular star in the Brit!sh firma- ment is Miss Hallle Q. Brown, a graduate of Wilberforce university. She is a young woman, a fine speaker and writer, and s ‘more than enthusiastic In her advocacy of the principles of the British ociation. Other leaders are Mrs. Price-Hughes, Mrs. Wynford Phillipps, Mrs. Agnes Slack and Miss Goham. The leader of the Australian order is Miss Jessle Ackerman, formerly of Boston, who succeeded so well in her missionary efforts in Australla and New Zealand and took so great a liking to the people that she has become an Australian. Thus far the leaders of the varlous European countries have not been an- nounced. There are large socleties in r.any districts of Europe, more especially in the four Scandinavian countrles, in Finland and north Germany. There Is a society in Mu- nich, the famous center of the lager beer industry. The delegations from these socie- tles wiil make an interesting element in the convention. Many of them speak English imperfectly or else not at all, and will re- quire the services of an interpreter. There will be no trouble in this respect as nearly all the American and British leaders are lin- guists and have frequently translated the speeches of their less gifted continental sis- ters. RER INVENTIVE GENIUS, How Lovely Woman 1s on Record In the 'wtent OfMoe. Nearly a century ago the first patent ever granted to a woman was lssued from the United States Patent office, at Washington, D. C. The event, now an every-day oceur- rence, was then unprecedented, and attracted widespread attention, says the New York Times. The intrepid little Woman who had the courage to so protect the result of much thought and experiment was looked upon by the virtuous but somewhat narrow-minded women of her day, whose horizons were bounded by the four walls of home, as one who had wandered far from the fold. Undaunted and unheeding, however, Mrs, Mary Kies worked unceastngly to perfect her invention, filed an application for a patent, obtained it, aud after several years of dis- couragement from manufacturers and others, reaped the benefit to the extent of some $10,- 000. That was in the year 1809, and the patent was for a certaln method of straw weaving, with silk or thread. Six years later a ripple of excitement aguin fluttered through the patent office when M Mary Brush filed plication for a patent on a corset. After due deliberation the de- sired protection was given on July 21, 1815. From 1809 to 1829 eleven patents were is- sued to women, and during the twenty years succeeding just twice the number. It i in- teresting to note that even those early pat- ents were not confined solely to improve- ments in articles especially adapted for the use and adornment of the falr sex, the list including such articles as foot stoves, device for sawing wheel fellles, cook stove bellows, machine for cutliag strew and fodder, process of extracting fur from skins and manufactur- ing it into yafp, & fireplace, improvement in the mode of nvxx‘fiylflg distemper colors having albumen or gelating for their vehicle so v render them marg durable, and preserving them when nof wanted for immediate use; a submarine tel ?5'”" and lamp, and a process for making sagdiron: From 1349 to {842 300 patents were issued— fitty-six during jba, latter year—and the mo ‘el room of the patent office bears silent testi- mony to the fact that since then the inventive genius of woman has not lain dormant. One of the most, ingenlous models on exhibi- tion is a combjnagion washing machine and see-saw, concelvesd;and patented by an Ohio matron. It consists of a hollow receiver, containing a rotary clothes holder, the motive power for which.is furnished by means of a cleverly contriyed; connection with a see-saw. The peculiar merit of this invention as set forth in the application papers is that the clothes of the family—and others, should the fortunate possessor of such a machine chance to be a washerwoman by profession—be placed inside, with the necessary quantity of soap and water, the children of the neighbor- hood graciously invited in to “‘teeter,” thereby affording them pleasure and recreation and at the same time utilizing the energy ex- pended. In an adjoining case reposes an article that should achieve instant popularity with those contemplating trips by sea. The inventor, a fair Philadelphian, being evidently Impressed with the unbecomingness of the ordinary life preserver, designed a shapely life-preserving cerset, and secured a patent on it, too. This unique article of apparel s provided with stays of cork, and Is intended for constant wear, while on the water, by men as well as women. It fs sald to be “flexible, yleld ing to the motions of the body, not liable to break through or rust, and may be made thin and light.” Besides hundreds of articles connected with her surroundings, such as cooking utensils, picture frames, improvements in articles of dress, and things useful and ornamental for the house, women have won wealth and repu- tation by the Invention of numerous articles, implements, and attachments with which men only, as a rule, are supposed to deal. In'1864 a Philadelphia woman, after watch- Ing a husband and two sons depart for the war, employed her lelsure moments in study- ing up a way to improve war vessels, She hit upon a valuable chance for increasing thelr power of resistance, and personally ap- plied for a patent, which was granted In due course, Other which have | important Inventions noted—all of oved profitable—were a plow, a dumping wagon, an improvement in desul- phurizing ores, a mode of preventing the heating of axles on cars, a car heater, car coupler, stem-winding watch, screw propeller, a process of concentrating ores, an ozone ma- chine, a pyrotechnic night signal, street-car awning, dice box, and 50 on indefinitely. Imitating the example of her fairer sisters the negro woman is also coming to the front as an inventor. A recent patent issued to a dusky daughter of the south for a self-walt- ing table shows great ingenuity of construc- tion. A’ movable circular portion of the table, supported on rollers, is mounted on a central pivot, so as to admit of its being turned Articles of food are placed upon this rotary section, so that a person wanting anything from the opposite side of the table has only to turn the central section to bring it within casy reach. . A New York, woman has patented a one- wheeled vehicly, in; which the equilibrium is sustained by the equal disposition of the load upon either side of the center, as on a biey- It has a dofble seat, supported by a lateral frame,, g0 arranged as to bring it both fore and mft of the axle, and so assist in balancing tue veblcle and in removing the dead weight partly of wholly from the harness saddle.” X An interesting model evolved from the brain of an enterprising music teacher 1s an adjustable device ~representing a musical staff, leger lifies, ‘bars, cte., and movable characters to represent clefs, notes and rests. This young woman found difficulty in making clear to beginnersithe fact that certain signs or characters plaeed upon a particular de- gree of the staff wepresented a Gifferent tone trom that whieh the same sign represented it placed upon’ another degree of the staff, by means of & dhaft having the notes perma- nently placed, afd so she designed an adjust- able staff, by means of which a sign note may be placed upon a certain degree, and, after the musical tone has been assigned it by the plano or voica, the same sign may be placed on another degree of the staff and a correct tone given, thereby combining the evi- dence of the eye and ear to impress upon the mind of the pupil the importance and utflity of the staff as an indicator of pitch. A novelty in skipping ropes comes all the way from England. By a clever contrivance the rope is connected with a music box in one of the handles. As the rope revolves about the child, while in the act of jumping, machinery s set in motlon and a pretty musical accompaniment delights her ear. A lover of animals contributes to the model department a sunshade for horses and other animals in harness. The object 18 to protect them from the vertical and oblique rays of the sun in hot weather without preventing free circulation of alr between sunshade and animal. This well-intentioned but clumsy ticle consists of a canopy and an articulated adjustable supporting frame, Coarse bleached muslin or any strong cotton fabric is used for the top, of sufficient length and breadth to shade the entire animal. Two long colls of wire counect the top of the shade with the harness in such a manner as to afford easy contraction and expansion of the canopy the movement of the animal's head, up a down, requires. One intrepid daughter of Pennsylvania has recently been granted a patent for an im- provement in corpse coolers. The article upon which more patents have been granted for various improvements than any other is the corset. The evolution of that garment, as demonstrated in the history of patents, forms by itself an interesting study. During the reign of hoops hundreds of applications were examined and patents 1ssued for trifing modifications of accessories to the wire cages, while an almost equal number was refused. Mrs. Lavinia H. Foy of Worcester, Mass., sets forth her claim as follows: now experienced by wearers of hoopskirts they are now constructed, in consequence of the frequent turning over of the bottom hoops. 1 remedy this cbjection by placing a plece or strip of glazed cloth on each side of tho hoops, and place between pleces of glazed cloth pieces of stiff paper or other substance to stiffen and prevent the bottom hoops from turning over, without destroying proper elasticity. Also, as the bottoms of the hoops and the supports are apt to soll, and much time and money have to be spent to remedy this difficulty, I accomplish that object by the use of glazed cloth in combina- tion with the use of hoops covered with fibrous material and then painted or covered with some matéfial not soluble in water, so that it can be washed." During 1892 more applications were filed by women for patents protecting new concelts In souvenir spoons than for any other one thing, § & — : The examiners of the patent office have frequent laughs over the many curious man- uscripts that pass through the office, as many of the applications for patents are ir- resistibly funnye request for a patent on *artificlal dimyptes’ is perhaps the gem of the collection. :"The claims of the fair one were as follo ® What I desire to secare by letter patent is my original method of . making artificial dimples, as follows: First—Smear & all spot on the cheek or chin with colorl with glue. & Second—WIitli“a pencil or penholder press the flesh* with the point, holding it there until the substance on the face becomes dry and har Third—The stiffened tains the exact shape of face powder, dusted carefully over the “arti- ficial dimple” will completely conceal the varnish glue compound. Fourth—Some care must be observed In smiling too suddenly or the dimple may be shellac varnish, mixed fndentation thus re- dimple, and a lttle broken. Fiftth—With ordinary gentle usage it will retain its shape a whole evening, if ot longer. While the dimple process s applicable to thore whose faces comprise & soft, velvety, or pulp surface, as then a very deceptive dimple can be produced, it s not so available for thin or bony faces, nor where the skin ia very thick and unylelding. Another woman wanted a patent on a crimpiog. pin, which could be used also as & paper cuiler, ekirt supporter, letter flle, child’s pin, bouquet holder, shawl fastener and book mark. One of the most novel patents ever fssued was secured by a Boston woman on a device for restoring faclal symmetry. It consisted of a spring plate, with two prongs or forks The plate was to be attached to the teeth, and the prongs placed inside the mouth, &o that they would press outward against each cheek and eause them in time to look plump and full, A recent application for a nose improver was refused. The models conaisted of metal molds of every shape of nose Imaginable, in all sizes, Accompanying directions required that the nose be well bathed before re- tiring, and rubbed with olive ofl or glycer- ine until perfectly soft. The “Improve was then to be attached and allowed to re- main undisturbed until morning, when it was to be removed and the nose bathed fn warm water. The paper also stated that some sorcness would probably result, but that a few applications would relieve ail unpleasant- ness. It was claimed by the inventor that as the nose was only a plece of cartilage, it was easy to shape, and could be changed to suit the most f; fous taste. Up to the present date 5,200 patents have beea secured by American women. THE SALAD BOWL, couked Vegetnbles Are Absolute ceensition in Summer Thme. While primitive man subsisted on the products of the flelds, forest and stream without the aid of cooks, it should be our alm to live near that condition by taking more and more of those fools which demand the t use of heat or cooking In their preparation, In selecting uncooked food we must always be vigilant to use that which is perfectly sound and in good condition, neither unripe nor overripe. ~ With tomatoes, lettuce, ro- maine, cucumber, cress and the numerous other plants of the kitchen garden we can make combinations for a summer meal whic almost excludes cereals for maln substanc Beef tongue with lettuce and beet, or fish and cucumber; chicken or game with cress or romaine, and tomatoes with just enough well baked bread to help out a meal, ofters a repast attractive, satisfying and nutritious to the majority of feeders. Contrary to general notions the use of fat in the form of salad ofls should be encour- aged in summer. Let it be remembered that the more oll we take the less bread we need. One ounce of ofi wili do as much duty as food as two and a half ounces of bread, and is much easier di b The quantity of oil we can consume is very small, and once the appetite is acquired di- gestion will be greatly improved. Salad might certainly be used twice a day. There is another aspect to this feature of food of great value. Observation will teach the inquirer that the thirsty souls who can never get enough water to drink of any kind are those who consume most starchy sub- stances, -as, for Instances, boiled potatoe bread having very little browned crust and ples. Cheap potatoes and abundant flour are not always unmixed blessings. With these there Is needed a high degree of ex- perience and skill from the cook to prepare such articles in a way least injurious to the stomach and intestines. In summer digestion needs to be vigorous, and to insure this end we ought to avold as much as we can the use of foods which di- gest in the intestines, to which class breal and potatoes belong. Sulads are at all times valuable Ing, len Fresh T as cool- refreshing food, and are besides excel- food for promoting slcep. he salad dressing dees not often require tho cook stove to prepare it, since oil, vine- cream and eggs may be used. The taste and sentiment of every individual may ba consulted by varying the form of service to any concelvable extent. he number of silad articles prepared from cooked garden stuff are as varied and en‘icing as the most delicato appetite could desire. From the health standpoint it would be diffi- cult to choose a more delicious plant than the tomato, either raw or cooked. The ex- tent to which this beautiful fruit-vegetable is used and its yearly increasing uces attest its value as a vopular favorite, The enormous quantities used for the manufacture of catsup, canning and for soup give promise of a still larger consumption during the win- ter seasons. For rheumatic and kindred evils the mild acids of the tomato are ex- tremely useful as a solvent of decided power. Fushion Notes. Some of the new crepons show changeable effects. Novel French creped silks are printed in caine devices. Fancy dress buttons match Dresden designs in silk and satin ribbons. Many of the new silc walsts have entire fronts of guipure or point de Gene lace. Undressed kid gloves of pale cameo pink are worn with evening toilets of cream or pale rose color. Box pleated waists of light colored liberty satin are fashionably worn with full gored skirts of white serge or crepon. In the matter of shoes the ridiculously high French heel and the two-inch vamp In pinks there are but & fow shades, but there are most lovely shades appearing in diaphanous fabrics and in silke for evening woar under chiffon or lace. Primrose, gold- enrod, and corn-yellow dyes are still much | used in satin as foundation stips under trans- parent textilos. There are also a few rare shades in mauve and violet to b used in com- | bination with cream-color, white and black fabrics or laces. In gray® are some ex quisite shades in dove, and creamy pearl and fawn in crepons. nine Note, Queen Victorla %as signed the bill making full woman suffrage in South Australia an accomplished fact. The princess of Walos has a tea service of sixty pleces, and each piece Is decorated with a photograph which she took herself in Scotland. Jane Harding has made a hit in the revival of Alexander Dumas’ “La Princess de Dag- dad.” She takes the part of Lionette, created in 1881 by Croizette. Mra. Francls Klock, of the Colorado legis- lature, has Introduced a bill in the house pro- viding for an fudustrial school for girls and appropriating $15,000 for its estabiisment and maintenance Mrs. Langtry has the finest head of hair of any lady on the stage. She once used a dye, but it disgusted her, and she has neve since attempted to improve on nature’s hand iwork in_this direction. The oldest living subject of Queen Victoria Is sald to be Mrs. McLaughiin, of Limavaddy, Ireland, the home of Thackeray's famous “‘Peg.” She is sald to bo in mer 111th year and in full possession of her facultics. Miss Mary A. Proctor, daughter of the late Prof. Richard A. Proctor, is following in the footsteps of her distingulshed father by popularizing sclence, and, though a young woman, has already won a high reputation as a writer and lecturer. Mrs. John Jacob Astor Is one of the most beautiful women In the world. She has every- thing—marvelous color, a graceful figure, re- finement, youth and wealth. She belongs to that rare type who can wear anything, mod- ern or ancient, And she wears everything. John Oliver Hobbs (Miss Craigie) Is only 26 years of age. Her books have caused a great hubbub among the critics on account of the pessimistic views expressed In them, and the note of precocious cynicism prevalling throughout their length, Sarah Bernhardt drew a large audience to a Paris civil court lately, where she ued for not paying a horsedealer’s bill. She said that sho aiways destroyed receipts, but that she had paid this one, and, being asked if she would swear to It, said,"Jé le jure,” and won her case. Rov. Phoebe Hannaford, a prominent mem- ber of Sorosis, has the honor of being the first woman minister ordained in America. At the time of Dr. Hannaford’s ordination only three women besides herself in the world had received orders. She fs busily engaged in preparing a book of her early experiences. The most accomplished lady of English royal family is Marie of Russia (duchess of Edinburgh), who is a thorough linguist and an admirable planisto as well. She devotes soveral hours a day to her music and de- Hghts in finding any one as fond of the piano as herself, who will play duets with her. Mr: Sarah Stephen, an aged widow of on, N. Y., who has ecked out a living molasses candy to school children, has fallen hefr to a fortune of several millions. Slio is 85 years of age, but that doesn’t mat- ter, as she has plenty of poor relations in the town to help her take s of the money. and to take care of it after she dles. The queen of Madagascar European fashion, always dresses in Slie wears a purple cos- tumo with a train on great occasions and sometimes assumes a golden crown. She is very vain of her personal beauty and has three times refused to accept coins struck to her order, because she did not consider her likeness *sufliclently handsomo for circula- on. Mrs. James G. Blaine has two homes, one in Washington, where so many sorrows crowded thick upon her, and the beautiful summer home at Bar Harbor. Mrs. Blaine 18 a cold, reserved woman, who has never been very popular socially. ' All her life and soul seemed to be centered in her distin- gulshed husband, and without him she seems 1o be lost, indeed. She spends much of ber time in traveling, and the Washintgon house is rarely opened. At the annual meeting of the New Eng- land Woman's club, held the other day, the president, Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, sald in her opening address: “It was once eccentric to belong to this club. Now the eccentric woman is the one that does not belong to any club.” Mrs. Howe claims that the New England Woman's club was the first *“housed club” in this country, and she adds: “We clubblfied Massachusetts. It is needless to say that Massachusetts believes now, as she has always done, that the whole country revolves around her. Mrs. Amelia Barr, who is probably the most prolific woman writer of the first class in America at present, lives for the greater part of the year at her beautiful home near Peeks- kill. She has one daughter at home, who re- Heves her of all household cares and another are as obsolete as a one-button glove, Sleeves of transparent materlal are lined with thinnest tarletan to keep them in place, and caught up with ribbon rosettes with pretty effect. Lace on the stylish shoulder capes by means of stiff linings is made to stand out after the manner of quills upon an offended porcupine. White duck suits are to continue In vogue, but not the cheap, domestic duck. The ma- terial that comes over the sea will have the preference. Garden hats for the coming summer are better named than ever, since on top and sides is a horticultural display marvelous to look upon. Roman lamps, which the Chicago woman took for a sauce bowl, are creeping Into the “‘house beautiful,” albeit a source of annoy- ance to the hired girl. Lace, silk, muslin and crepon berthas, which were worn in the days colonial, will be “all the go" this season. They have the “soft, soothing" effect. Neapolitan straw is the material of which some of the most beautiful of the newly im- ported bonnets are made. And it is declared they cannot be imitated. Pure undyed silk with a weave resembling canvas and rather coarse in texture is called Arabian silk. It is used for tailor suits for morning and travelling wear. Imitation ivy vines for the exterior of the modern old homestead can be had at so much per yard. To those who do not know the real it 1s a good imitation. Dressy sleeves for afternoon as well as evening wear are made quite short, reach- ing only to the elbow. From thence fallsa very deep frill of lace, covering the arm to the wrist. i) Dimities, organdies, lawns, and light silks are more tempting Just now than any sort of cloth, and lovely gowns of these delicate fab- rics are made in most instances without lin- ings, and worn over silk petticoats. Costumes of pure white, from the plain crepon or silk parasol to thoe tip of the shoes, will be one of the prevalling fashions in sum- mer dress, and they will be worn morning, noon and night, in all the varying graces of elegance. Golden russet shades are in high favor once again In addition to tan, fawn, and belge tints. Theso dyes appear among gowns, Jackets, walsts, capes, gloves and hosfery. Shoes to match are worn, not only in the country, but also in cities with morning cos- tumes, 'With cycling and tennis suits they are universally worn. An afternoon dress of cream glace foulard, dotted with black, has a strap of white satin covered with jet at each side and finished with a band and large velvet bow at the foot. The bodice Is of cherry red chiffon, with ac- cordion-pleated Jabot of jetted lace at the neck. The pointed revers are open-work fet, which also bands the lower edge of the im- mense puffed sleeves. Among the dainty things for summer are very short silk capes with lace revers and collarettes; white silk parasols with Dresde figures In chine effects and white handles; silk waists with wide velvet straps down the front, and from shoulder to belt, these straps studded with jet or cut steel buttons; large Leghorn hats simply laden with white or pink ostrich tips, plaited chiffon rosettes, full blown roses, and foliage sprays. The newest summer bonnets—so called— are new in the sense of freshness, but not as marked noveltles, and are made of crepe lisse, chiffon, Parisian patterned nets or ex- quisitely wrought Indian tissues, with laces to match, These French trifies light as air represent (orolg';‘l.u-" nl"I:l, e delicate straws, satin 3 nets made of rushes Nn-."nhflhd to & secondary place in fashi gowning. hw-wntm.::l‘m Mh‘: Blados Lawa brown, many groen u, yellow, are certalnly predominant. living in Boston, who is marrled to Kirk Munroe, whom all small boys know and adore. It 1s rumored that Mrs. Barr s going to write a novel about Cambridge. If she gives to It the looal color that {s the charm of “The Bow of Orange Ribbon" she will add another gem to American literature, Bix years ago Mra. Eva Austin Weed, of Auburn, began practical work as a topograph- ical draftsman, or rather draftswoman, with her father, who is city engineer. She con- tinued her studies at the Syracuse university in 1889 and 1890 and the following year worked in the Cooper Union, New York. Wmen the examinations under the civil servico rules for the position of assistant topographical draftsman were held in the Polytechnic insti- tute last February, of the 108 applicants 46 passed. Mrs. Weed was the only woman. She stood first with a percentage of 94. A young woman of Washington county, Maryland, Nannie Robinson by name, is con- sidered one of the most energetic farmers In that gection. Since the death of her father last fall she has been keeping up the farm as well as a water-power sawmill. Miss Robinson has but one assistant, her brother Charles, aged 5. Four months were consumed in logging last season and Miss Robinson cut down trees herself. She put the logs In the mill and personally superintended the sawing. Her lumber i in great demand among the dealers of Hancock. Miss Robinson is a comely woman, a splendid horsewoman, well educated and but 20, Mme. Yale’s Hair Tonic Ladies and Gentlemen: It affords me great pleasure to call the attention of the public to my Yale's Hair Tonle, which is the first and only remedy known to chemistry which positively turns gray hair back to its origi- nal color without dye. I personally endorse its action and give the public my solemn guar- anteo that it has been tested in every con- ceivable way, and has proved itself to be the ONLY Hair Specific. It STOPS HAIR FALL- ING immediately and creates a luxurious growth. Contains no injurious ingredient. It is net sticky or greasy: on the contrary, it makes the hatrsoft, youthtul, flufty, keeps it in curl apd removes dandruff. For gentle- ‘677 ” FOR ROSE GOL HAY FEVER-SUMMER COLDS Taken early cuts It short promptly. proventive, prec its invasion Taken as & pios the system and preyents Commence taking now. Under the_Mahogony Lurk Dyspepsia Gout. ® at the table in rich foods and cating too fast, is the most coms of Dyspepsia and Gout. causes the weak stomach ted, and n '8 Indiscration to Kish'" n clafms her debt for t ) | A dose of D ry's Homocopathio § ol 10, on i (he tomach and give cure forDyspepsia, Vi Indigestion, or. the tru for §1, ( S OMEDICINE John St GUARANTEED FOR 10 YEARS. Cannotbe datected from the finesd ClearWhite Stone known only ‘The Borneo Diamond. Any Rettingin the st ity sk, We Bave s ful A and enr drops. ‘o and upwards; our 0350, 16 yo + rops. 1o responsible. frms, o B ranle ‘gencies il send €. 070 fece pecially fon: " Sauple sent prepaid of price. 11 ring fs wan Avire We Call attention of Merchants,Bankers and Lawyers 10 tese goods. _Catalogue Free. ADDRESS, .U BANGHART & €8\ 56 sth Ave. Chicago PATRONIZE HOME - INDUSTRIES purchasing goods braska £ want, made tories. |1t you smmunicaf s as to what dealel at the following cannot find what with the manufac- handle you tur thelr goods. BAGS, BURLAP 4 BENIS ONAHA BAG CO. Manufacturers of all Kinds of cotton and bure bags, cotton flour sacks and twine a specs 614-616-618 8. 1ith-St. BREWERIES, OMAHA B‘l'la\'lll(} ASSOCIATION. Car load shipments made in our own refriges rator cars. Elue Ribbon, Elite Expot, Vienna Export, and Family Export, delivered to all parts of eity. R e COFFEE, SPICES, BAKING POWDER. e CONSOLIDATED COKFEE 0., Coftee Roasters, Spice Grinders, Manufactur ers German Baking Powder and German Dry Hop Yeast, 1414 and 1416 Harney-st,, Omaha, Neb s S e it = FLOUR. S. I, GILMA) Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour. C. B. Black, Manager. Omaha, FURNITURE FACTORIES, O0MAHA UPHOLSTERING (0. Manufacturers of Paror Furniture, Lounges, Dining Tables and Folding Deds. 25th ave, Boyd to Shaler Sts. e ICE AND COAL SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND COALCO. Domestic and Steam Coal. We have the best. Qffice 1601 Farnam-sta Telephone: Office 378, yard, 1766, J. A. Doe, General Manager. Ak il e INDUSTRIAL [RON WORKS. Manufacturing and alring of all kinds of machinery, engines, pumps, elevators, printing preses, hangers, shafting and couplings 1408 agd 1408 Howard-st., Omaha. PHOENIX FOUNDRY CO. Fire Hydrants, Water and Gas Pipes,specials, Dofler Fronts and Fittings, Street r'y. cap Architectural lron works, Office, 307 8 Omaha, PAXTON & VIERLING IRON WORKS. Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Worlk, General Foundry, Machine and Blacksmith Work. gineers and Contractors for Fire Proof Bulldings. Office and works: U, P, and So. 17 naha. MANUFACTURING CHEMISTS. THE MERCER CHEMICAL COMPANY. Manufacturers of = Fluld Syrups and Wines, compres ¢ tablets, pills and scientific medical nove . 0TS, CRIBS. L. G DOUP. Manufacturer Mattresses, Spring Beds; Jobbew Feathers and Pillows. N. lth and Nicholas §ts., Omaha, _— ~ S MINERAL WATER, " HEDESSA MINERAL WATER C0., 200 So. 1lth st Tel. 254. Medesss Mineral Water, Carbonated, unequalléd. Plain for table use unsurpassed. = = = = el NIGHT WATCH, FIRE SERVIUVE, “"AMERICAN DISTRICT TELEGRAPH. The only perfect protection to property. Exam ine it. Best thing on earth.| Reduces Insure ance rates. 1004 Douglas-st. VERALL FACTORIES, HATZ-NEYINS CO. Manufacturers of Men's and Boys' Clothing, Pants, Shirts and Overalls.|202-212 8. 12th st — IR Y PAPERE BOXES. THE OMAHA PAPER BOX (0. Manufacturers of all kinds of T Shelf Boxes, Sample Cases, Mailing Tables, Wedding cake and fancy candy boxes, druggish and jewelry boxes. 130810 Jones-st., == ey SHIRT FACTORLES. § men and ladies with hair a little gray, streaked gray, entirely gray, and with BALD HEADS, it i spevlally recommended. All_drugsists. Price, $1; also Yale's Bkin Food, $1 Yale's Complexion Cream, $1.00; Yalo's Face Powder, 50c; Yale's Beauty Soap Zc. Mme. 'Yale Health and ° Complexion ~ Specialist, Temple of Beauty, 146 State-st., Chi- cago. Cuide to Beauty malled free. J. . LYANS--NEBRASKA SHIRT CO. xclusive custom shirt taflors, 1515 Farnam-st.. Telephone 908 = O it VITRIFIED FAVING BRICK, HENRY BOLLN, OMAHA, NEB, - ' Factory in Loutsville, Cass C.0 Q .n:: guarantced as §00d s eny Tt outside of this state. Henry Bo Ry, =