Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, March 10, 1895, Page 10

10 THE OMAHA DAILY B¥ ‘oman’s IDomain. FRENCH FASHION LEITER, Detalls of Evening Dress as Seon at Paris Grand Opera. PARIS, Feb. 20.—(Special.)—Evening dress changes most In its accessories. I have ob- sorved this in looking over the opera house. The gowns themselves do not show much variation from one season to another, for a low-necked bodice fs always a low-necked Dodiee, whether square or round, and pale tinted materials are always about the same, but the Jewel settings, the fan, the aigrette, these ornamental details change wholly from time to time and the effect of the dress is altered with them. At the grand opera certain of these orna- ments may be seen in different stages of pro- gressivo a'rophy, while ¢ rtaln oth rs once thought an essential part of evening dress have disappeared altogether. One needs to be careful about these details, for not even an old gown makes one look €0 horribly anti- quated as a superfluous ornament after its day is dono. The fan's day is over. Rarely brought to tho opera now, it liea ldly in the lap when there, all forgetful of its former sprightliness, 1ike an old first-nighter gone to slecp in the middle of the ballet. Requiescat in pace and good riddance. It had its beauty, but to a northern born woman it was always a foreign and awkward tool. This disappearance of the fan is important for two reasons. In tho first place it shows that the ideal of manners has changed. We onco took our inspiration from the south, whers movement is one-half, at least, of specch, and for southern women the fan was invented by Venus herself, “‘to heighten the graces of beauty, to entice zephyrs to attend on her and light loves to slide Into her breast,” etcetera; but the northern ideal has moro or less triumphed, repose is now DOTTED SILK DINNER DRESS. the word, and to flutter & fan in company is bad form. And it shows in the second place whero to save a needless expense. Since its effect goes for nothing one's money is better saved o put Into another gown or another toy. The thing to buy now is a jeweled lorgnette. Bougquets, once a part of evening dress, have been relegated along with trained skirts and several other kickshaws to the sole use of brides and bridal parties, and are no more seen with ordinary evening wear. The hands must not be cumbered; another sign of the ohanged ideal. Towering algrottes of jeweled feathers, for # long an institution, have nearly disap- peared. An undulating outline, with no ec- centric breaks In it, is now the fashion, and if a tall aigrette is here and there seen it only convicts a mode passing away. The hair 18 done with simplicity, much as in day- time, and as often low as high, and the ornaments are a twist of pearls, or long curved combs that form jeweled bands, or else artificlal flowers, the last a fashion slowly gaining ground. A very new idea is an ornament placed on each side of the head, relatively as they are placed on hats, as Bernhardt wears the garland in “Gis monda,” only not as large. Barrings today appear to be worn prin- elpally “by elderly women. I don't know why. Perhaps because of a habit taken when young, or because they fill up the hollows of age. The great majority of fash- fonable women do not wear them. Gems are set less frequently than they were into imitative forms of Insects, flower sprays, crowns and crescent moons, which after a few times seen grow tiresome, if not ridiculous, but they are set very simply, with the idea alone of showing off their color and brilliancy. The latest idea is to set them single and to use them to stud the garment, as the front of a bodice, all over like stars. The new toy of the cpera Lox is a lorgnette, It 1s a curlous substitute for the deliclously sentiental fan and Venus clearly had no hand in its making, Far from expressing soft sentiment it detracts absolutely from beauty by suggesting plysical defect. But it is the mode. Every woman has one, and has it bedizened with jewels and fastened to a jeweled chain in order to make it con- spicuous. An ensemble of old rose moire white lace bertha, and black pansies placed as a bou- tonniere in one corner of the square decol- lette and as a garland over the opposite shoulder, shows what an evening dress Is like in this last half of the season. It Is smple If costly, and the touches of dark solor are particularly antful. Such touches wro used to give character to pale evening dnts when seen at a distance, as across the wera house or a ball room. Strong color s used In touches with the. ame art and for the same purpose. Thus a Mack satin gown with white lace bertha has Moulder straps of turquoise blue velvet and WHITE MOIRE EVENING GOWN. e o - t-wuh: Jewels on the bodice front end in White gowns are much worn for evening, will be also next summer. It is the fashion to add a single touch of color to these '8 velvet band round the neck, which is made In gathers or folds with flanges behind each side, just as they are made for necked gowns. The color is oftenest In place of the band are also worn of colored silk with fringed edges. sort of necklace looks odd with the de- but not uupleasing. Instead of those Decklets & color touch may be given with a of velest flowers lald over one shoulder, ‘(he effect is not 50 new and striking. . A black gown shows up Jewels betier than | the a colored one, and black velvet, white lace and dlamonds make a toilette of the greatest distinction. A beautiful model has a square decollette blouse front framed in on each side with point applique that passes over each shoulder and down under the arm to the belt, and this clear field of black is studded over with diamonds. TIn place of diamonds a stm ilar effect, if less brilliant, is obtained with iridescent spangles. Every season seeks a new device for the dress of stout women, because the device of last season has been discovered. Scarf drapery is on one of the newest models, fall- ing from each shoulder to the foot, caught at the waist line with plaits. It is carried out in mixed silk of fawn and gray with scarves of brown velvet. The bodice Is surplice, open in a point, and white lace surrounds the neck and forms a vest framed on cach side by the scarves, The two following remarkable tdilettes deviate from the conventional order. The first s of myrtle green satin that reflects its color under gaslight Iike a jewel. The bodice is cut In 1830 form with the siceves entirely oft the shoulders in a perilous suggestivencss that is saved by extra straps running over the shoulders. They say this style will be much worn next summer. The straps and the neck cdge are enriched with cut jet and mock emeralds, and a bar of dfamonds some six inches long reaches nearly across the front. The halr is done low and loose with no orna- ment; the gloves are beige. The second toilette is all white. It is of satin; the bodice has the low neck cut straight across with the sleeves set on above and the waist line in a rounded point in front, and the whole stiffened and embroid- ered ‘all over with pearls, giving the effect of a Marie de Medicis = stomacher. The sleeves are formed of a ruffle of doubled satin stiffencd and made to flare. The hair is done rather high and strung with pearls. A great many evening gowns are made with a black or white skirt and a colored bodice. In this way several diffcrent bod- ices may be worn with the same skirt, which 1s a gain In economy. Thus Felix has Just made for wear with white moire skirts a dinner bodice of yellow velvet, the front en surplice, and a decollette blouse of old rose mousseline de sole trimmed with feweled rose passementerie. The greater number of evening bodices are in blouse form, bouffant in front, with the neck either square or round, bordered with a wide lace bertha that covers the sleeves, Violets or cerise roses catch the laco in front and jewels are not necessary. The gloves are white, pearl or beige, a rather deep tone of beige being worn with much effect. ADA CONE. Etlquetto of Traveling. “What may a man do, and what may he not do with propriety during a journey in the course of which he is either acompanied by women, or thrown by chance into their company?” asks a young man of the period, who adds that his manners would be better, doubtless, if he could ever find out just what a well-bred woman is entitled to expect under the circumstances, Tho journey may be up and down in an elevator; it may be round the globe. In both cases and in all the events that may go be- tween these extremes a very good rule for a young man to follow who is not quite sure of himsel! is to act just as he would like any other young man of his acquaintance to do it the young or old woman in the case were tho sister or mother of the would-be polite but perplexed youth. Women adore little attentions. Even the strongest minded ones do. And a man who would be popular cannot too early find this out. He must not make his attentions oftensively pointed, but if he manages to be extraordinarily civil, and—more than that— thoughtful, and at the same time act as if he did whatever he does as a matter of course, he s going to win good opinfon for his courtesy. From raising or lowering a blind or win- dow to obtaining a luncheon for one una- ble to herselt get off a train by reason of in- disposition or because she is caring for a child, etc., there is nothing a man may not offer with perfect propriety to do for an un- known woman, providing there is no porter who can assist her, and her own inability to wait upon herselt 'is patent. But the well- bred man raises his hat as he asks to be al- lowed to be of service, makes his request in a chivalrous fashion, with all sobriety, and whether his offer is or is not accepted the gentleman will not afterward presume to enter into conversation or make any attempt to force an acquaintance out of the act of civility. The polito man who is willing to give up a lower car berth, or to exhange his car stateroom for an open section, or to give up his steamer stateroom to accommodate -an invalid or a woman traveling alone, who by some mishap is unprovided with a resting place, does mot proffer the courtesy of so much magnitude in person to the lady. He should ask the stewardess to do so, in order to save the lady to whom he would be merely chivalrous the embarrassment of not being sure that the offer is made by a gentle- man. The polite man who finds himself the es- cort of ladies uj=n a journey, or one of a party, as on a large and long continued ex- cursion, during which everybody is put upon the footing of acquaintances and thrown much into each other’s society, may with propriety offer to do any of the offices that he would wish his sister to accept at the hands of a corresponding ac- quaintance. He endeavors to spare the ladies all possible care and annoyance, such as looking after luggage, etc., but he must not spend money for them without permitting them to repay any chance outlay. 1f the meeting is by chance at the end of the jour- ney, he, after sceing the ladies safely to their hotel, will himself go to another one if pos- sible. In the case of an cxcursion where all the party have rooms engaged at one hotel, the case is different from that of one or two women traveling without male rela- tives, as In the excursion party there are always husbands and brothers and chape- rones The difference between the actlons of a polite man and one who is not is very often merely a matter of manner and not of the act itself. In fine, the etiquette of traveling is very like that which obtains anywhere among well-bred people. Such circumstances as being in a wreck would make it perfectly proper, it need hardly be said, for a lady to accept attentions from a strange gentle- man that she could not aceept under ordinary circumstances; but under the usual circum- stances a lady will be grateful for and not resent the courtesies made possible by the routine of travel if they are proffered by a gentleman in a gentlemanly way, distantly, respectfully, without any = after-presuming, where they do not include the payment of money, and preferably are made through the medium of a paid servant of the cars, ship or hotel, Proper tare of a Flano. A musical instrument may be regarded in the light of an exotic—costly and requiring constant and careful attention, It is also like a race horse—the better its treatment, the more it responds to the hand, and even in the evening of its old age s & thing of beauty, with a past record of great things accomplished. Frequently, alas, though, a costly and beau- tiful piano grows’ worthless and tuneless be- cause it s neglected. Like a race horse, also, it needs to be kept covered after use. In frosty weather especially always close it when not in use, and it possible throw a cover over it. Keep in a moderately warm room, not too near the source of heat, and let the temperature bo even. Not cold one day and hot the next, but warm all the time, say 60 or 70 degrees the year around. Always place the plauo against wall and a little out from it. Sbun the itinerant tuner who comes un recommended and of whom you have mo pre. vious knowledge. As soon intrust your own ills ® & quack as your dellcate, high strung instrument to an ignoramus who had much better be shoelug horses or sawing wood than meddifng with planos, Do not allow children to drum on it. True, Prof. Banghard may expend a like amount of streugth upon its keyboard—I doubt if it thoroughly enjoys either treatment. But if the right keys are struek it will not affect it, nor you, so seriously as where children muse themselves and wreek the Christian empers of all listeners but those of their fond memunas by thelr soul distracting sounds. Resolutely avold littering the tops with an inside bricsa-brac, for it unquestionably affects the tone. A well known maker recommends frequent wiping off of the case with a chamols skin wrung out of tepld water, and where ‘he case Is very highly polished and dark this is not o seary, but productive of good results, and lit'le else will answer to remove the dust that settles resolutely in the rightly named fretwork. But if you are afrald to try this, and you want to remove finger marks and blue mold, take salad ol and vinegar—two table- spoonfuls of ofl to one of vinegar—and rub on a very little of this mixture, and with vast perseverance, mighty muscle and a soft woolen rag rub until your arm threatens to drop from the socket; then survey your work with a critic’s eye, and you witFdoubt- less pronounce the result good. Fashion Notes. A new slipper for bedroom or boudoir is of gray kid, narrowly edged with fur and lined with pink kid. Velyet blouses and other waists in black, dahlia-color, brown and green will be In highest vogue this spring. A new ornamental shoe is of dressed kid or patent leather perforated like the fashionable cloth and velvet fabrics. Rancy vests of pique and bright-colored vesting are shown with the new tailor gowns, and are very similar to those worn last season, Some tailor dresses have the extreme full skirts, while others are more moderate in size, but in either case they are cut short enough to clear the floor. The toque s a greater favorite than the turban, because it is becoming to more faces than the latter hat, and also because it ad- mits of so very many ways of trimming. There appears this season a cholce variety of soft, beautitul India woolens, brocades and very lustrous corded silks, in the silvery pink, English pink and paler dahlia shades. Handkerchiefs of white linen, with two or three insertions, and a border of valciennes lace, are pretty. A single blossom whose petals form the scalloped border of the hand- kerchief is new. A new thin fabric that is in vogue for fancy waists, and which will be used late for whole toflettes, is called “silk tissu It is as pretty as mousseline de sole, and is much mors durable. Some new spring walking boots for gen- uine servico are made of eoft French calf- ekin, These button or lace up the front. Thay are really. smart looking boots, as they are of good shape and take a brilliant polish. A pretty afternoon dress 1s of mauve bro- caded silk, made with a blouse and apron panel of pale yellow accordion-piaited silk muslin_over yellow silk. Mauve satin forms the belt, bow and collar, and lace epaulets fall over the sleeves. With dressy post-Lenten costumes will be worn single or double-breasted Bton jackets of black velvet, made with full mutton-leg sleeves, lined with shot silk and trimmed with cut jet in points or narrow lines of gimp. Cashmerss are in use again. A simple dress recently made for the empress of Rus- sia Is of white casimere, with a bodice of white crepe, cut in crossway folds and bal- loon sleeves, with deep crepe cuffs. A crepe ruft finishes the neck. Skirts for tailor frocks or for street wear are preferably of moderate fullness around the bottom. The very full skirts are re- served for wear at receptions or for evening frocks. All skirts fit well around the hips. Moreen Is sald to be an admirable sub- stitute for horsehair lining. SKirts lined with the latter material require an extra lining of sitk or cambric. Moreen is a pretty fabric, and thus can be used without another lining. One of the marked features of the present fashions is the use of one materlal over an- other o that both can be seen. And some- times three materials are employed, as, for example, lace oven. chiffon for a blouse. waist and these made over satin or silk. Long ostrich plumes are just now greatly used in combination with short full tips and tufts or aigrettes. These_trimmings are seen upon picture-hats of various shapes, and on toques and turbans os well, also on the mata- dor hat that is still quite popular, but suited to but few faces. Gold, jet and bronze spangles and sequins are to be used more than ever on galloon and passementerle trimmings. In very . many handsome spring toilets the entire yoke of the bodice is a mass of these glittering garni- tures, and the sleeve decorations match it from ‘wrist to elbow. Feminine Notes. Mrs. Irene Ingram has been elected state librarian by the Tennessee legislature. The Empress Frederick invited Fraulein Boecker, the one surviving woman of the Elbe disaster, to visit her at Osborne. Mrs. Cleveland recently became a member of the Woman's Christian Temperance union, and she is said to Wear the white ribbon badge with much pride. Lady Randolph Churchill wears the excep- tionally bestowed and much coveted Imperial Order of the Crown of India, conferred upon her by Queen Victoria. It was as a pianist that George Eliot was noted at school—not for any epeclal ability in other directions. She displayed an un- usual aptitude for acquiring languages. As a little girl she much preferred romping with her brother to studying. The minister of instruction at St. Peters- burg has presented a scheme to the council of state In favor of permitting women to practice medicine. This is the third or fourth attempt of the same kind, but as in the present instance it is strongly supported it appears to havo a chance of success. Dr. Helen Webster of Wellesley college is the only woman who has ever earned the title of doctor of philosophy. She went to Germany and won the title by hard, unre- mitting labor. She Is a woman of great repose of manner, with a strong face and determined expression. Her hair is fron gray. All departments in the University of Chris- tiania, Norway, are open equally to women and men. Many women fill positions as post- mistresses, Every fair-sized town In Norway bas a soclety for the political enfranchise- ment_of women, The only carecr absolutely closed to women in that country is the legal career. Tho latest addition to the occupations of woman is the “professional marketer,” who, as may bo surmised, flourishes best outside of New York. In Philadelphia, where mar- Keting is a revered houschold rite, the cx- pert finds @ clientele, who, unable from one reason and another to attend to the duty themselves, are yet unwilling to trust it to untrained hands. Lady Randolph Churchill has been staying since thp death of her husband with her compatriot and relative by marriage, the duchess of Marlborough, formerly Mrs. Lily Price-Hamersly. Her health is rejorted to be severely shaken by her long anxiety and final sorrow, and she is contemplating a con- siderable stay on the continent, probably near Paris, in consequence. The beautiful iridescent effects in brass work which were exhibited at the World! fair are the invention of an English girl, Miss Lily Marshall, now resident in New York. The secret of the process is kuown only to herself and her brother, and, as it is accomplished by laborious handwork, it is not likely to become common. The Inven- tion was the result of long and patient la- bor. Dr. Anna Willlams began her duties re- cently as an expert bacteriologist in the New York Board of Health's anti-toxin laboratory, where she has been studying sine: laat June. Dr. Williams is a young woman of 25, Who has had very thorough trainiug for her work. She studied in Leipsic, and then re- turned to this country and was graduated trom the New York Woman's college. She is now an assistant io the pathological labor- atory of that college. In France the universities were thrown open to women Js early as in the year 1863. The firer diploma (for mathegatics) was granted to a woman at Sorbonné, and about at the same time an English woman took the first degree as doctor of medicine. The medical facully in Paris nad in 1868 four medical women students; in 1878 the number had only reached thirty-two, but in 1886 it had rison to 119. Only three women have matriculated at the Paris faculty of law, The lovellest of dolls has just been seat Lo the little daughter of Emperor William. It SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 1895 was made to ofdet and 1s the size of the baby princess. It % dressed In similar garments to those of hef 'tbyal highness and has & clock-work artAngtment which enables it to say “Guten mdfgén, majestat.”” The donor 18 the baby glfi's” great-grandmother, Queen Victoria. a1 o Miss Carrie ‘LidBbg, who has just been ap- pointed a mvu!fl. surgeon of the Northern Pacific rallroad at Hope, Idaho, s the first woman physicidf th be appointed in the rail- way service, That eccentric. finglish woman sportsman, Lady Florence ,Dixle, has accepted the presi- dency of & woman/s football club which has recently been . formed in_the “tight little Isle.” * The captain is a Mrs. Nettie Honey- ball, a name ,which is full of suggestion under the circumstances. Mme. Henry of Parls, the superintendent of the Paris Maternity hospital, has had her namo added to the list of Lady Knights of the Legion of Honor. This high distinction Is awarded to her for the excellent service rendered to the important and useful institu- tion of which she s the guiding spirit. Mre. Emma L. Davidson of Peru has been clected state librarian for Indiana. Miss Nancy Baker of Indianapolis was a_close competitor, recelving in the joint republican cancus 46 of 101 vot Mrs. Davidson has appointed Miss Fitzgerald of Madison and Miss Lilllan Welton of Vincennes as her as- ststants Sarah Bernhardt has francs the Fortin des Pou massive tower on Belle Isle, in the Bay of Biscay, which she will transform into a cadtlo and where she will take refuge dur- Ing the Intervals between her dramatic tri- umphs. She discovered the place last sum- mer whilo passing her vacation at Begmeil in Brittany. Mer. Irving, In his kind and charming way, says the Gentlewoman, presented Beerhohm Tree with a beautiful silver cigarette case on his departure for America, anl Mrs, Tree with a traveling clock; while Miss Ellen Tetry, ever practical, dispatched a monster bag ‘of ‘Jaeger,” covered with leather, for Mre, Tree to ‘“tie herself up in” on deck when the winds blow cold. Miss Julie Cooger, a nicce of Peter Cooper, 15 the one of the family on whom the great philanthropist's mantel has fallen, though the public knows but little of her wide charities. She is a handsomoe woman of the world who conceals as far as possible her constant good works, She supports a kindergarten en- tirely at her own cost to the extent of $300 a month, and that 1s only ono item in a long st. Lady Charlotte Screiber, just now dead in London at the age of 82, was an indefatigable but most discriminating collector. Her valu- able collection of English porcelain she gave in lifo to the South Kensington museum, and her collection of English fans was b stowed on the British museum. Besides these splendid displays she possessed a superb collection of foreign fans and an exhaustive and interesting showing of playing cards of all nations. bought for 6,000 ins, a square and SIP ABOUT MEN, It is related in Kate Field's Washington that Fred Douglass, though very sensitive on the subject of any distinction drawn between negroes and mulattoes to the disparagement ot the former, always ready to crack a Joke on his own color. He often laughel over a witticism of Mrs. Fred Grant's at his ex- pense when they miet at the Chicago con- vention of 1888, “The convention had been in session several days and there had been some balloting the day before,” he said, re- lating the story to a friend. “I was sitting with Mrs. Grant ang her party watching the balloting. To my surprise one vote was cast for me for president of the United States. It had no_sooner, been announced by the tell- ers than Mrs. Grant, turned to me, and with the most charming, smile imaginable, said ‘You must be the dark horse of this conven- tion, Mr. Douglass.)” At a meeting of the Free Religionists in Boston some years ago, he was among the speakers. Referring to the rule of the assembly which limited the time of speeches, ho sald he never made a short speech that hewas-eatisfied with, and never a long one that ‘anybody else was satisfied with. T came here;” said he, "not to speak, but to listen; to' learn, not to teach; in fact,” he added, “I caie’ Here merely to give color to the occasion.’” Of General Carr, who has just died in New York state, they used to tell an amusing story about™Troy, his old home. Carr left Troy to go to the war in command of the Second regiment.” The story is that the first engagement the young colonel figured in_was at Big Bethel. His regiment had halted for rest and refreshment in a pleasant dale. They had not then tasted war. It happened that the rebels were in ambush in the immediate neighborhood of the resting place of the brave Trojans, and from a safe biding place opened fire upon them. Carr instantly put spurs to his horse and rode up to a group of officers. Excitement and bewilderment were apparent upon his handsome face as he approached the party. “They are firing upon my regiment!” he shouted. *“My God! now, what is to be done?"” The Washington Post says: ‘“Ex-Senator William Pitt Kellogg, who now resides in Washington, was one of the seven gentlemen who, in_the territorial days of Nebraska, at the outbreak of the war, boarded at the Herndon house in Omaha. The incident is curious, in the light of the interesting cir- cumstance that each of the seven In after years occupied a seat on the floor of the United States senate. The Herndon house, where these seven distinguished guests were all guests at one time, is now used as the headquarters of the Union Pacific Railroad company, and at one time figured promi- nently fn connection with one of George Francis Train’s eccentricitles, Train was a guest at the hotel. He was assigned to a room with a broken window. His protests were left unheeded, and the next day, in a fit of indignation 'at his treatment, gave orders for the erection of a rival hostelry. The lumber was ajl on the ground in the next few days, andawithin two weeks he had his hotel completed: and ready for business. It is still pointed out in Omaha as a monu- ment to American enterprise and eccen- tricity.” “Mr. Edmunds,” says a gossiper In the Burlington Free Press, “is enjoying a very largo and, of course, profitable practice of tho law, now that he has timo to devote to his cases, but residents of his native state havo little opportunity to know of the real extent of this service, inasmuch as most of his work is in the higher courts of the coun- try. His income from the cases which he presents before tho supreme court of the United States must be very large. but his counsel and services are In demand in many parts of the country beside, not excluding the west. For cxample, when the city of Chi- cago began a movement to compel the rail- roads leading fromsthat city to the south- western_states toirevise the discriminating rates which weravalleged to have been made in the interest of eastern cities, the question as to who should be melected as chief co sel to take charge:of the entire case promptly disposed of by retaining Mr. Ed- munds.” s ~lod st When lecturingobefore a negro convention in Louisville, Ky somoe years ago Fred Douglass sald thats.the question of social equality did not disturb him. “I have never desired,” said hel f'to asscclate with any man, white or bluck, unless my company is acceptable. However, if a white man is well educated, clever, and respectable, I would just as sconbd eangnt in his company as in the comphnyiof a negro.” While speaking on miscogenation another time his eyeglasses botherddl &im by sliding from his nose. I wish,ichevbroke out, *'we could t up some sorbiof an alloy for the negro which would assure him a nose capable of holding glasse: ot e LABUR NOTES. The Altruria colony ported to be prospering. Working people of Spokane, build a labor exchange. Cineinnati union men are taking steps to bulld a labor headquarters Carpenters gained ten new unions and re- organized seven In the last two months. A New York factory Inspector wants an eight-hour dsy for women and children. The American Féderation of Labor is or- ganizing the tobacco workers of Chicago. There Is a growing sentiment in France favoring nationalization of the liquor traffic. The Chiczgo bricklayers are considering a in Californla is re- Wash,, may project for the publication of a weekly of- ficial organ. New York clothing cutters and trimmers AN 5 i A are preparing to Inaugurate a fight for an eight-honr work day. New York labor commissioner finds that labor organizations have steadily increased in membership during the year. A company has been organized, with Will fam Bell of New York as president, for the erection of a steel plant at Elizabethtown, Tenn. Lawrence Gronlund says Yo finds the peo- ple of California nearer ripe for the co-op- erative commonwealth than anywhere else in the country. An agreement has been reached between the Niles, Ohlo, tin plate manufacturers and thier employes and the plant started after a long idleness. Bocause of the general amnesty by the carpenters' district council in Chicago, the carpenter unions in that city are rapidly in creasing in membership. The Coast Seamen's Journal has a depart ment called “The Tale of a Dock Rat.” In the standing head a rat of the “dock” species busily writes with his tail. The Barbers International union has fe sued for free distribution a 500 page pam- phlet showing the unsanitary condition of bake shops in New York and vicinity. The New South Wales government is go- ing to provide employment for a number of men at thinning out the state forests. The butty-gang system s to be introduced at this work. Some of the dally papers in Washington state are advocating the disbanding of the militia, and the money saved to be used in building school houses and furnishing free school books. Hebrew charitable organizations of New York, composed largely of employers, is ac- cused by the Hebrew trades unfons of be- ing a non-union recruiting agency, and there is trouble in the air. When the Union Steel company's plant at Alexandria, Ind., is completed it will glve employment to 1500 hands. This company was formerly known as the Val- ley_Steel company at St. Louls The Journeymen Bricklayers' Protective assoclation of Philadelphia resolved that the wage scale and number of working hours per day observed last season shall be fol- lowed during the approaching season. el i LEGAL LORE. Varlous Knotty Law I'olnts Decided by the Courts. The question as to the duty of a father to permit his children to visit their maternal grandparents after the mother's death is raised iIn the Louisiana case of Re Reiss, 25 L. R. A. 798, which discusses the question in the light of the French authorities, and suggests that the duty is moral rather than legal, but renders no express decision on the point. A mere transfer, called a bill of sale, with- out consideration, and without delivery of possession of the property, is held in the New York case of Forward vs Continental Insurance company, 25 L. R. A. 637, not to constitute such a change of title or incum- brance as will defeat an insurance polic even if it was intended to defraud creditors, A nonresident plaintiff in an attachment suit, while In the state to testify therein, Is held in the Maryland case of Mullen vs San- born, 25 L. R. A. 721, to have no privilege from service of summons in an action for maliciously bringing the attachment suit; and with this case are collated the multi- tude of decisions on the question of the privi- lege of a nonresident witness from suit. Greater vigilance and care in running an electric street car over a public street cross- ing much frequented by school children than at other places, is held in the Oregon case of Wallace vs City.and Street Railway com- pany, 25 L. R. A. 663, to be demanded by the law; and the annotation to the case, analyizing the numerous decisions on the subject, shows that they are mot in conflict with it. A succession duty or tax on the transmis- sion of property at the death of the owner has been discussed with respect to its con- stitutionality in some recent decisions. In Maine the case of State vs Hamlin, 25 L. R. A. 632, sustains it as an excise duty, and not a tax on property, the court expressly declaring that thera s no constitutional right to transmit property at death or to take by inheritance. The right to insure one's life for the benefit of another is discussed in the Michi- gan case of Heinlein vs Imperial Life In- surance company, 25 L. R. A. 627, upholding a policy to the son of the insured, while a note to the case, reviewing many author- Ities shows that nearly all of them sustain insurance taken by a person upon his own life for the benefit of another, even if the latter has no insurable interest therein. A novel decision in the New Hampshire case of Barnard against Taggart, 25 L. R. A. 613, 18 to the effect that illness of the gov- ernor which disables him frqm performing the duties of his office constitutes a vacancy. This seems to be the first decision on the subject, although in a note to the case dicta from other courts are quoted on both sides of the question. r A city ordinance prohibiting the owner of land to build thercon within the city without permission from the city building inspector, from whose decision he could have no appeal, is declared in the South Dakota case of Sloux Falls against Kirby, 25 L. R. A. 621, to be an infringement of the constitutional property rights of the owner. The court condemns the ordinanco as an attempt to restrict the owner's dominion over his property by refer- encs to the arbitrary will of an officer. A partnership doing business within the state, but the members of which arc all non- residents, is held by the decision in the Ohio case of Byers against Schlupe, 25 L. R. A. 649, to be a nonresident so that the partner- ship property may be subject to attachment on that ground, notwithstanding the fact that the statutes consider the partnership itself as a party to an action so far that it may be sued by its company mame and served by leaving a copy at its usual place of business in the state. That & train dispatcher with power to em- ploy and discharge flagmen and brakemen is a fellow servant of a brakeman with re- spect to his negligence in sending out incom- petent or unfit persons with a train Is decided in the Maryland case of Norfolk & Western Railroad commpany against Hoover, 26 L. R. A. 710, in this respect conflicting somewhat With the Arkansas and New York decisions in 25 L. R. A. 386 and 396, which held that a train dispatcher was not a fellow servant of trainmen. With this case are collected the great number of authorities on the liability of a master for injuries caused to one servant by the Incompetency of a fellow servant, “That a court of equity has no inherent ju- risdiction to annul a marriage In the absence of fraud or duress is decided in the Maryland case of Ridgely against Ridgely, 25 L. R. A. 800, while the review of the other Ameri- can authorities on the subject in_the annota- tion shows 2 general concurrence in the doc- trina that some recognized ground of cquitable jurisdiction, such as fraud or Quress, must exist in order to sustain such Jurisdiction. To similar effect is the Massa- chusetts declsion in the case of Kelly against Kelly, 26 L. R. A. 806, which denles recogni- tion o a judgment of the supreme court of New York anoulling a marriage on the ground of the prior marriage of one party, be- cause its jurisdiction is not shown, There is hardly an unclaimed piece of min- ing ground left on Ellioit creck now, and that section will be one of the liveliest camps in northern California or southern Oregon when spring opens. new Remarkable Sucoess of a Philanthropio Or- ganigation in New York, VIGOROUS DEFENSE OF OPPRESSED LABOR Detalls of the Working Woman's Protec- tive Unlon—What it fias Accomplished in Making Dishonest Em- ployers Pay Up. The Working Woman's Protective union of New York City, which was organized thirty 0dd years ago, during the civil war, 1s located at 19 Clinton place. The amount of unostentatious good accomplished there is worthy of record. The place is under the management of a superintendent, Mrs. M. J. Tenny, a bright- faced, sympathetic woman who has devoted heart and soul to the work, who inspire every poor oppressed girl or woman with a desire to pour out her woes. From 9 in the morning till 4 in the afternoon she is seated at her desk, busily occupied with a large correspondenco and other matters connected with the work. A complainant is asked to state her case clearly, the amount of money withheld by her employer; how long it has been owing; in what manner it was earned, and other circumstances of the case. Then, if It proves to be a just and deterving claim and the applicant too poor to help herself to recover it, the case is immediately taken up and the union works ceaselessly until a fair settie- obtained. in order to be just to both parties and give the employer a chance to state his side of the story and avoid legal proceedings, the following notice is at once sent to the delinquent: Sir (or madam): A complaint made against you at this office by ———, who states that you owe her $—, which you refuse to pay. If there is any just cause why she should not receive this money pl make it known to us within three da tiie end of that time we shall assume that you admit the debt, and the claim will be placed in court for collection. —, Superintendent, Working Women's Protective Union. At the expiration of the three days, if no reply has been received, the usual legal summons Is issued, requiring the employer to appear in court, listen to the charge and offer such defense as may be made. If the defense prove insufficlent, or if the em- ployer fails to appear, the court, in its own discretion, orders judgment for the union. At the close of this procecding the employer finds that the petty claim of the poor work- ing woman, which amounted perhaps to two or thres dollars, has been increased by costs. He finds also that the woman whom he de- spised has found friends whom he can neither buy nor intimidate. He is followed by the union, who are neither daunted by trouble or expense, and the poor woman insignificant bill is paid, with costs added. When the Protective union was first es- tablished theatrical claims were declined, but of late years it was thought advisable to do so. Many chorus and dancing girls de- pending for livelihood on their week’s salary are often defrauded by unscrupulons man- agers, who take companies out on the road and become stranded, refuse even to give their employes enough money to pay their way back to New York. The only resource remaining is to “‘work their way home on their trunks.” In theatrical dialect this means that trunks are put in pawn to the railroad company who allows their owners to return, with the understanding that if they cannot redeem their baggage within a certain time they will be disposed of by the company to pay the fare. These cases are very troublesome to the union owing to the dificulty of getting both complainant and delinquent to meet in New York. When one is to be had the other is probably away on the road, and vice versa, The union refuses to take up the cases of women employed in household service, as not depending for immediate board and lodging on the recelpt of their wages and having always, while employed, a roof over their heads and food to eat. As a rule, too, do- mestlc servants have not the same dificulty as other women wage earners in obtaining what s justly due them. At present the union has a number of cases pending. No lets than twenty of these are against a fashlionable New York dress- maker, while there are ecight other com- plaints against another well known modiste. A third claim, which the union hopes to conclude soon, Is that of a trained nurse against one of the managers of a prominent theatrical company. She nursed this man through a long fllness and was never paid one cent for her service, nor could she for a long time discover the delinquent’s busi- ness, Now that he has been located, and as his company came to town, the union will compel him to settle his lawful debt to his faithful nurse. About a year ago a well known Fifth avenue dressmaker gave an order to a girl who earns her living by beadwork, to do an elaborate design on a velyet mantle. The girl took it home, furnished all the ma- terials, beads, silk, thread, etc. The design took time and close application to complete it. When finished, she brought the mantle back to the modiste, who insisted upon greater elaboration, The girl did as she was told, and again brought back the mantle To her dismay the dressmaker absolutcly refused to take the cape, saying It was too late in the season. She could not sell it. The embroiderer was in perfect deepair, as sho needed the money for herself and an invalid mother and sister, whom she sup- ports. Hearing of the union, she went: there, stated her case to the superintendent, who, satisfied of its justice, took it up. The dress- maker was served with a summons to appear in court. An expert on beadwork was called to report on the quality of the work. He stated to the judge he would not have done it for $75, though the girl's agreement had been only §25. The modiste then had not only to pay the girl the $25, but the costs as well, which amounted to a great deal more, During the thirty-two years of its existence the Working Women's Protective union has brought to the bar of justice over 12,000 de- linquents, sending some to prison in explation of their wrong. It has collected, by legal process, and paid over to these women, {ree of all cost to them, $41,000 in sums varying trom a few cents up to scores of dollars, but averaging but little more than $4 each, all in wages earned, but withheld, and which otherwise would have been lost. It has pro- cured the passago of laws which give speclal protection to all working women; imposing extra taxed costs In their prosecutions of dishonest employers, and thus securing the willing services of many good lawyers, whom they could not,” otherwise, afford to employ. It has traced, and by exposure o the pro- prietors, has exterminated petty and yet out- rageous’ frauds, once mot uncommon among well known business firms. It was opened, and stands holding wide, a door of redress to thousands of working women who come to it for success; and is the pioneer of sim- llar institutions’ in Boston, Philadelphia, Cleveland, Chicago and other places. 1t has supplied more than 300,000 applicants has been breakfast.’ OATS Save Dentists’ Bills, Doctors’ Bills and Butchers’ Bills by eating a bowl of delicious QUAKER OATS A pleasant economy. Sold enly In 2 Ib. Packages. [WORTRY WORK FOR WOMEN | sihcrotzmes ot sprc o some snee stitution In New York to start an employ- mont bureau for women. Of late yoars these have sprung up all over the country, and though the union still supplies seamstresses by the day, dressmakers, nurses and nurses maids (but no household servants), it devotes itselt for more especially to recovering for poor working women the wages which they have justly earned, and out of which dise honest employers would defraud them. M. B. M. (11 77 ” ~FOR= A HARD COLD. Tt requires the skil the difference betwe Cola.** You are familiar with the symptoms of a cold. mpare them with the Indications of Gripp, from Dr. Humphrey's Manual given below. Homoeopathy treats of the SYMPTOMS, rather than by the NAME of the disesss, and ‘77 covers both Geip and Colds. Grip Symptoms. se of lliness, pain or oreness over the system or in the head, back or limbe; sore throat or cough, sometimes obstinate hoarseness, and pain in the breast or side, snivelling, run- ning from t or weeping, ftching, and rednesa of the eyelids, In some cases the soroness at some particular part; in others the cough and hoarseness or the sore throat, or, again, the profuse catarth or flowing from the eyes and noss are more prominent, The appetite is fmpars ed and the nervous system unstrung, depressed and run down You can surely trust it for Grip, and rest ase sured that A Mnenosticlan to detect n La Grippe and a “Hard SEVENTY-SEVEN? CURES: COLDS VERS—C ngestions, Inflammations, and pain re cured b Dr. Humphrey's Specific No. 1. If in doubt as to the disease or the Specifio needed, give No. 1 If tha other Specifics do not act promptly, ale te with No. 1. DACHES, —Sick Headaches, Vertigo, Head from Indigestion, excitement or ' othes are cured by Dr. Humphrey's Specifio —Indigestion, wesk stomacl all forms of Mliousness are cured by D [ Spectfic No. 10, Inflammators Membrancous, as well ilts) are cured by Di and Hume Spasmodic, and even Laryngitis (croup of Humphreys' Specifio Hives, Tiumphreys' SKIN DISBASES Rheum, all yield quickly to Dr. Specific No. 14 RHEUMATISM and all_rheumatic phreys' Specifie N AL BOOK.—A copy A free on application, Humphreys' Specifics a up in sn les of pleasant pellets 2 e five for $1.00; may be druggists or sent prepald HUMPHREYS' MEDICINE John Streets, New York. Acute or Chronie; Sclatica, paing are cured by . Humphreys® Al bote ¥ celpt "ot prio Wintlum" sad Ladies and Gentlemen—It affords me great pleasure to call the attention of the public to Yale's Ixcelsior Halir Tonie, which is the first only remedy known to chemistry which posi- tively turns gray hair back to its original color without dye. It has gone on re- cord that Mme. M. Yale—wonderful wo- man chemist—has made this most valu- able of all chemical discoveries. Mme, Yale personally endorses its action and gives the public her solemn guarantee that it has been tested in every conceivs able way, and hds proved itself to be the only Halr Specific. It stops hair fall- ing immediately and created a luxurious di- Physicians and chemists invited to analyze it. It Is not sticky or greasy; on the contrary it makes the bLair soft, youthful, fluffy, and keeps it in curl. For gentlemen and ladies with hair a little ntirely gray, and with BALD HEADS, it Is especlally re- commended. All druggists sell it. Price $1.00. and growth. Contains no injurious in ent, gray, streaked gray, If Auybody Offers o Substitute Stun Them MME. M. YALE, Health and Complextion peciulist, Yale Tew plo of Beuuty, No, 140 State street, Chicago. BREAKFAST — SUPPER. EPPS’'S GRATEFUL-COMFORTING. COCOA BOILING WATER OR MILK, DR. C. GEE WO WHO IS HE! He Is one of the most wkilitul of Chinese dooe knowledge and cures. in the medical college China he understands the immediate action of uver 5,000 remcdies. With fours over four years of that time In Omaba has give hm & reputstion ip by thousands of testis aonials in curlog EVER! Wicier Chassoavic OR 3 r. G & two-cent slamp for and questicn bisaks Dr.C. Ges. Wo. 519 N. 10tk 1,; OmannNeb