Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 27, 1895, Page 10

T VHNTVAT THE OMAHA DAILY AT BER: SUNDAY, Sureo JA ARY 27, 1895 CHARMING SPRING DRESSES Exquisite French Creations that Will Be Worn by Fre-Lentan Brides, KNITTING GOLF STOCKINGS FOR PLEASURE Favorite Pastime for Fashionable Malds and Matrons — Soms Dainty Muffs and Drapery for Do Mies for rways — Choice Intne Renders. NEW YORK, Jan. 20.—(Speclal)—She makes a good beginning in matrimony who can go to the altar well and becomingly dressed; and since this is one of the perlods when the young man's tancy of the foregoing springtime is yearly made into something more solid, a little talk on wedding clothes does not seom Amiss. To begin, there Is the marrlage frock It- of course, and in all the history of never were marriage frocks mor ming than no All who are sufficlently youthful white as the bride material, and satin, that ladies of the old still speak of as “standing alone pre-eminently the favorite. Along with it, however, will be seen effec- tive gowns in less expensive stuffs; white grenadine, plain gros grain and the thin erinkley crepon that drapes so beautifully, Chiffon over silk is also used, and white satin and Brussels net make a combination that nothing can excel in daintiness. A wedding dress of cspecial loveliness in these last two materials, and here illustrated, has just been imported for a February bride. The skirt in particular, though of surpassing simplicity, is most bewlldering. Fitst thero Is an entire demi-train, one of satin, over this a second one of the Brussels net of a heavy grade, made full, slightly gored at the waist and finished at the bottom with a wide hem and three tucks, The bodice which follows the correct bride model of high neck and long sleeves is of the choose school witli'a bag rest of netj through which this peeps are finjshed with a tiny satin underfold; the drooping sleeves aro of satin.. A fold of satin and side choux outlines the walst, a stock and hinges of net at the throat. A FELIX FANTATSIE, bride gown that is even more cloud-like tban this is a Felix tulle over satin, with a foot fringe and bodice decorations of orange blossoms. But here it scems wise to add that this last is a mere freak in altar frocks. It fs just one of those traps sent out to cateh the unwary, French women, the best dressing of all brides, rarely departing from the prescribed rules of silk or satin, the gown being made as simply as possible. As a rule, indeed, the Parisian wedding dress s considered ‘in best taste when soverely plain; when trimming is desired the bodice may have a bertha or some other Another novel and fantaisic of big a _one for the prospective bride, who, nevertheless, felt the wrap to be the one thing necessary te her happiness. It was Just the weight suited to the mild Florida air #he intended to seek, and, moreover, adorably becoming 1o her pale brunette type. So, 1 ka patience 01 a monument, she kept hor eye (n |.; and, when after the holidays, to- gether with sfocks or the thermometer, or what not, its price fell, she bought it for $60. So much for knowing how to wait. In getting up a trosseau for Florida honey- mooning, it fs well for the alien to remem- ber the ralments of that climate, Wraps and gowns that are comfortabls in New York sonville or 8t. Augustine; and even the colors epted elsewhere seem downright sad In flower-decked towns. Soft winds and ng odors demand, by right, delicate tex- tures an these ar ida she blossom the privileges of the bride 1h Flor- may mak: herself as_much like a as she chooses. ~ NINA FITCH. COMFORTABLE FOULTICES, ~oothing Applieations that Temprr the Shurpest Pain, Fundamentally, poultices are the means of relaxing the tissues and relleving the pre: are on the sensuary nerves. Their benefit is a question of heat. Why hot water bags are not quite as effective Is due to the ab- sence of moisture, and the touch of rubber on the not o soothing as that of mush. No poultice, Some skin is especial aflment requires a special Any one of the list may be chosen, whether stomach, back or brain Is the tor- menting member. To produce a good heat nothing is speedier In effect and simpler in make than the child’s poultice of bread and milk. Wheat bread s the best to use. The crust of the bread should be removed, the milk heated without boiling, and the whole thoroughly pestied, so that no lumps obtrude. The bread retains heat for an incredible length of time. A poultice of flaxseed is usually consid- ered the most efficacious of all. Its soothing quality, that penetrates the brain centers, comes from the pungent steam of the heated flax, an herb whose medicinal benefits were congidered by olden dames a panacea for ev- ery ill. The flaxseed should be ground up into very coarse meal and slowly Incorporatsd with bofling water until a consistent thick- ness is reached. No gulde is needed for the quantity of water to use, for even an an teur's eye can judge of the requisite stiff- ness, 1 the pain is severe, a handful of powdercd slippery elm bark added to this 1s excellent, or the poultice can be an equal compound of the two. Yeast can be added to the flaxsced to give thickness, if the bark is not procurable. If the pain becomes intense, tobacco mois- tened with hot water is very soothing, and other narcotics serve the same purpose. They should be mixed in very thoroughly after the meal has been prepared. Doctors universally advocate the usage of mustard leaves instead of the home made plaster. They are more efficacious and le troublesome, However, in cass of emer- gency, it is best to stick to plain mustard and water in the make up, unless the suffe er's skin is too tender to stand the stin to alleviate this coung@r irritant, vine molasses or flour can be sparingly mixed in. For ulcers, wounds or sores that have healed badly or have not healed at all, a poultice made of powdered charcoal mixed with bread, or yeast, does more to remedy and reduce irritation than any salve. It has a particularly cleansing effect that is most gratifying. To make and place a poultice as the nurses at the hospitals do is something of an art, as insignificant as it appears. The sufferer, whose racked nerves are sensitive to phys cal impression, writhes under a badly made application more than the healthy ~person realizes, Pounds of irregularly laid meal, thick, unwashed cloth, that irritates the flesh, edges not caught together, between which the substance oozes over patient and bedclothes, are conditions that counteract ali probable good. When your substance is carefully mixed and prepared, no lumps and no pools of water appearing, put it aside for a few mo- ments to cool, While it Is settling down cut a quadrangle of soft, washed muslin twice the size required. Then slowly pour your mixture on one corner, leveling it over the cloth with a knife, leaving three inches clear on either side. ~Close the untouched half of muslin over the mass and stitch or pin together the edges, that everything may be safe and compact. Learn to put in a pin, bending its point back, as the nurses do, and never fear that it will prick. Under such a light, soft, steaming plaster the grateful body will succumb and the pain be cased, while its opposite would have been torture. If it Is not intended to renew the poultice, only heating It anew, a modicum of glycerine should be poured on the surface of the cloth; otherwise the skin will break out in small pimples or rough patches be left when it is removed. The application of poultices is too tive and apt to be abused, and the quence is that the skin becomes white, seduc- conse- docoration of rich lace. The smartly stiffened satin skirt is either demi or full trained, and is rarely trimmed, The veil comes to the bott:m of the skirt, back and front, as always; but where there i3 liked it is sometimes bunchy over the ears with little sprays of o:ange Dblossoms to widen the head af'er (e present fad. As to the gown in which to start off on the hongymo-ning, brown seems to have become, for ‘color, almost as popular as the old time dove gray. Brown is more universally becoming to complexions than any other shade. It is, be- sides, best adapted for wear and tear, and when long journeys are in cintemplation, this point s ‘of vital importance, The_dashing going-away frock of a late New York bride, who is now on her way to spend the lune de mill in Florida, a favorite winter place for honeymoons, was cf tobacco brown cloth over yellow dafodil silk. This formed the foundatiin of the French circular skirt, and showed through brown open work em- broldery in long piinted hip pleces, The front of the round bodice, which, buttoned at the left side, was slashed and embroidered in the samo way over a daffodil lining; the back likewise, A 1itile roll of tchaces brown velvet finished the walst, cver which In front the body hung with a slight bl-use effect. The plain sleeves were the usual huge mutton-leg affalrs, The collar, which began with a high glistening THE OPERA C — = tock of daffodil satin, was completely under fho chin, with four points of tobaceo velvet ’ FOR THE TROUSSEAU. . Anothier garment worthy of mention is the rousscau of this eame young weman, who, ¥ the way, hud a dower of more wits aud looks than dollars, is a carriage wrap eloth 1a a brown tan, with a bewildering ulia Mting and bands of silky broad-tal his splendid affair, a Worth creation, and here pictured, was what may be vulgarly termed a “bargain.” When it mede its debut 1o New York ils price was just $200, far (oo LOAK. wrinkled and sodden, and boils are apt to form and the circulation about that part Is serfously retarded. INVIGORATING LATHS, A Hot Tubbing Followed by a Cold Plunge Protects the Nystem. Baths should be largely regulated by per- sonal experlence as to what is beneficial and what is not. However, it Is well for every one to know some general truths, for in- stance, that a cold bath is not cleansing, and that an unmodified hot one predisposes the bather to cold; and again, that a tepld plunge Is a hopeful bid for a headache. What then? What now! When it is a recognized and necessary mark of a lady to take a full bath every day, though our very wise grandmothers did nothing of the kind? Well, unless you have a personal physical \diosyncracy in their favor, you had better drop the fepid bath from your list. It is much used, but it is not useful. Take hot and cold baths combined, and cold ones alone frequently. A hot bath, as hot as it can be borne, is very luxurious, very cleansing and very freshing, but no one should stay in it longer than five or elght minutes. Then a quick cold sponge or spray removes all Qanger of taking cold, If you think this sounds severe, it only shows you don’t know. A cold sponge after a tepid bath Is a terri- ble shock, but when you are just out of a very hot bath there is no shock about it, it 18 _delightfully refreshing. We have been learning the joy of hot baths from the Japanese, but before the Japanese became o fashionable Mrs. Lang- try did much to start actresses on a course of hot baths, for to them she attributed (and attributes) her success in preserving ber looks. Such a bath as this, with plenty of soap and a bath brush, taken every other day, leaves one free to take a cold plunge on the day between with a good conscience, That is the greatest safeguard against colds and pneumonia in the world. If the bather is very dellcate, the plunge can be ex- changed for a quick cold sponge, but gen- erally the plunge is the less shock of the two. Again, any appreach to the tepld con- aition makes the bath very chilling, very trylng. The water should ha really coid; the bath literally a dip, and nothing more, in the tub; necessary ‘'scrubbing” can be gone through on the feet. In this way the glow- ing reaction comes 80 Guickly that ther no ehill whatever. VIOLET HEARNE. Xome Diinty Mufrs, WASHINGTON, Jan. 26.—BEvery one pres- ent admired in extravagant terms a muff, held by slender hands, at Mra, Carlisle's re. ception ir the capital last weck. It wasi't an expensive accessory, bore the hall mark of originality. It ap- peared as a cloud of black chiffon, caught with & great scented bunch of Russian vio lets, and slung to the neck of its wearer by a slender, pearl-studded gold chain. Somehow that muff made a hit, and it was honored by prals>s of Mrs. Sceretary, who had followed the beut of every one's glance. ‘The young woman afterward confided fo me its manner of making. It cost just 40 cents," whe afirmed, “to begln with It is inexpensive black fur, and I bought ft on the avenue. Then I took some good breudths of a hlack embrolgered chiffon skirt that way warm and made them into rufies, and sewed yards of them to my fur foundation. A bunch of violets, the chuin for my lorgnette, and there is my mufl complete.” So chiffon muffs are quite the vogue. Those of seal, sable or any other variety that but it it was | will develop almost stifting qualities in Jack- | tints for wearing apparel, and since | is | have become shabby from econstant usage are being rufled and frilled with gossamer tissue until they are unrecognizable. And, sober- | sided as for muffs seem, they take quite happily to the coquettish chiffon. The long stoles, or collarettes, of fur are coming in for their embellishment, two full ruffles of the mouselline used to soften their edges. Those carried In the evening are not less artistic and effective. It is quite the fashion to have these fanciful trifles scarcely elght | inches in length for the theater, cotillions | or evening receptions. They are all made [ in light effects, cither of chiffon or gauze | An_especially pretty one at_Sherry's |had a white silk foundation, rufled over with white chiffon, embroidered in gold; one golden butterfly nestled fn the draperies, and narrow white silk ribbons caught it about | the neck, that it would not interfere with its owner's dancing. Another was of pale lavender, that matched the young won n's gown, with a bunch of pink blossoms pinned in the center. An exquisite littla creation can be fashioned from billows of blue chiffon, with five stripes of silver braid confining it rways. seen Deapery for & For a hall, library d'ning room door- way five or seven yards of rich brocade draped, swung, and knotted Into rosettes, takes the place of the passe three-yard length portiere. Instead of the brass pole a speafr is placed diagonally across the upper part of the doorway; this may be of metal, or it can be purchased for much less money In wood at a theatrical shop, and silvered or bronzed according to fancy. The spear Is really held in place by brass hooks firmly screwed into the casement. The spear will rest upon these. The length ot drapery should be caught in a rosette of itself easily fashioned by tying out a circle of the ma- terial with a stout twine string and sewing it down, here and there, above, until you have a ruche effect, this should be fastened into place by tiny taoks upon the upper left hand corner of the casement of the doorway. Fes- on the material across the casement and A WATTEAU PORTIER. finish on the opposite side with a similar rosette; then deftly twist about the spear and catch back to the left, with still another, the length of the materlal fall- ing diagonally from beneath. The effect of dressy luxury given by very modest materials in such arrange- ment will be most satisfying in an unpreten- tious home, For the chamber entrance here Is the model for lovers of Dresden china, Watteau girls and their jaunty French flower bas- kets. A shepherd's crook, silvered or gilded to match the fittings of the room, cross-gartered, like Malyolios's stockings, with pink and blue satin baby ribbon. This is finished near the crook with a generous cascade of the Frenchy streamers and a dainty nosegay of artificial flowers, tiny pink lady buds, and forget-me-nots. Now, your own taste sug- gests the drapery for such a magic wand already, French chintz to be purchased for 30 cents a yard, covered with tiny shepherd- ess's with panier flowered frocks, a crook, and a basket of flowers on their arms, or, in licu of these many little maidens, nex- pensive silk flowered over with a ground of white or pink or delicate blue. Little lady rosebuds are inexpensive by the bunch, sevarated and sewn along the edge of the drapery with a three-inch swing of stem they make charming fringe. For the long pier glass flanked on either side by tall windows shielded by lace cur- tains, an ample length of any stuff, no mat- ter what its quality, festooned from full rosettes, starting from a center, and gradu- ating to the sides with a swing of the ma- terial, lends much to the grace and softness. Bow windows, o general in apartment houses, fitted with French sash curtains with their palms and silver Jardinieres, will be greatly improved by the dressy addition of a drapery canopy festooned, rosetted, fringed and chosen according to your industry and the elasticity of your purse. FLORENCE WYNNE ELLIS, KNITTING GOLF STOCKINGS, Favorite Amusement of Fashlonable Girls and Matrons. Knitting stockings, which for many years has been relegated to the grandmothers of the famlily, has had an immense revival of late, Now the smart young woman belong- ing to the sporting set from Hempstead or Westchester may be seen piying their pretty fingers busily, on train or ferry, beguiling the tedium of their trips to town, like any German frau in the old country. They knit the great, coarse woolen stockings in the elaborate parti-colored patterns of checks, stripes, etc., so much worn nowadays by their husbands, brothers and sweethearts, for golf and country bicycling, or for ordi- nary wear at home with the “Tig” they best lové to aftect. Certainly, a big man never shows to better advantage than in tweeds and knickerbockers, while even a slight per- son looks well, owing to the present fashion of gartering the stockings below the knee over the buttoned “extensions” of the knick- erbockers and turning over the top, over the calf of the leg, to the depth of several inches, when it can either be turned up again a littls or left to cling to the leg. These “over-laps” are generally made in a different pattern, and sometimes different color from the stocking itself; and for the benefit of those who have been accustomed to knit the ordinary ribbed stockings we give directions for knltting one of the favor- ite patterns in vogue just at present. It is quite easy and very interesting for any one €0 invent patterus for themselves as soon as they have become accustomed to the use of a number of balls at once, as each color has to have its own ball. The pattern we will take has a check- erboard over-lap of brown-heather mixture and black, alternating solid squares—that s, of each color, arranged just like a checker- board, with a scarlet edge as a finish, the rest of the stocking being of the brown- heather mixture, with cross-bar lines of black, This sounds all very elaborate, but it is In reality very easy to do. In the first place, as the over-lap must g0 over the thick stocking itself, cast on 108 stitches of scarlet wool and knit one and purl one for several rows. About four or five will do. Then take two balls, one of brown and one of black (to avold tangling ke one on each side of you), and commence with the brown and knit seven stitches and purl | two, making nine in then knit seven itches of the black and purl two; earry across the brown yarn, being sure to leave it loose enough not to contract the black stitches, and repeat; then repeat in the same manner with the black. Thirty-six stitches on each of the three needles will bring the alternate colors right This 1s don again and again, until a square is formed of each color, the greatest care being taken meanwhile in passing the yarn across the back of the other color to leuve It slack enough not to draw, but at the ame time not too loose. When the squares are finished the inside of the stocking should | look like the reverse side of tapestry woven cloth, and the double worsted makes it de. lightfully warm and soft. The first row of squares being finished, the next block must ommence with the black yarn, so that the black square will come above the brown square. Continue in this w | rows (according to t | have been knit. and then finish with several | rows of the scarlet wool again. The stock- ing should now be turned over and then rap- idly narrowed, knitting three plain and purl ing two for a couple of Inches, o as to formn a sort of garter, and then widen again to 1108 stitches. This may be done with the plain brown, as it will save trouble and be until three or four te) of these squares | other black, hidden by the dobriang. Now knit sixteen and purl two formaviral rows until six wide ribs are distinct7and then arrange the balls 80 as to producebdhe cross-barred effeot while knitting. #Fhis {s done by measuring twelve lengths of black wool, each two yards in_length, rolling reach length into a little ball and tying tiorend of the yarn, one at the beginning and anothor at the end of each set of sixfeeriistitohes, putting all of the littie bally toside of the' stocking. Now commence by kiM#ng one black stitch, then fourteen brown otfes, jtifen a black one again, then spurl two browal, and the next rib in the same way, onelMlack, fourteen brown, an- and .Borf two brown, and so on On the next row the second on each ¥ will be black at either end of the set of sixteen stitches; on the next row the third 'stitch, and so on until they meet in th¢ middle, when they go the other way, and continue thus In criss-cross fashion until the ankle is reached, fotming, will be seen by following out the dir tions, a diamond pattern of fine black lines. As the narrowing is done on each rib equally the diarionds naturally keep in their places, point meeting point ‘all the way down the leg. In turning the heel plain brown fs used, but in front the diamond pattern i continued until deep enough to be worn witn a low shoe, and then plain brown is used to_the end. 1t is quite amusing to see what an Inter- est cne's men folk take in the new importa- tiong of wool, for tha best yarn comes from gland or Canada, and how interested they re in the progress of the work. These directions are intended for those who know already how to knit plain ribbed stockings, and who would Ik to try the patterns which are now so fashionable. If directions for knitting plain stockings are desired they will be given. for one ro stitch The New Woman. Tho initial number of the Windsor maga- zine, the latest addition to English periodical literature, has the following to say on the subject of “The New Woman': ““To say that the new woman is a butterfly would be to do some injustice to a meritorious insect, for the new woman is apt to be un- lovely and to make her brief sojourn amongst us hideous with discordant cries. We do not propose to encourage her in the illusion that she is a permanent factor in soclal dovelop- ment, ‘and is_working victoriously for the regeneration of man by the equality of the sexes. The only service she renders to man is to provide him with cynical entertain- ment, while she fondly imagines that his natural supremacy is seriously In question. “The true responsibilities of woman do not ; they demand a deep and lasting re- . Which man is eager to accord; they assert in a considerable sphere an authority which he does not dispute; they are infinitely lelpful to the race by virtue of an en- larged education, which he does not grudge; but’ they cannot supersedo the funflamental law which gives to him alone the arbitrament of the force that makes the basis of govern- ment. When the new woman announces that sho is the equal, if not the superior, of man, sho overlooks the important though prosaic fact that In tho last extremity he is the stronger animal. It is he, and not she, who, in the struggle for existence, which the most exalted humanitariuan cannot disguise, must be the chicf bread winner, who must bear the greatest physical strain, who must defend the country against invasion, who must decide the issues of peace and war. “Many women, it_js true, have to earn their own livelihood, “and to acquire through much suffering {he needful self-reliance for independent tofl, but the ordinance of nature still holds good, for few women will under- take this task when they can get men to do it for them—men whom they can rule through the affections, and bind with the tender ties of the family and tje home.” Fashion Notes, The up-to-dategirl is having the gems that once glistened iu-her_ears made into finger rings. The newest velvet ribbons ‘have a jetted edge, making them very effective for bat as well as dress trimmings. Open work embroidered chiffons come in great variety, and white embroidered with black, s used for Jight mourning. Moire gauze I\Jfivaly- pale shades is @ new material for evel dresses, and declded. moire effects = are’ own in the crepons. i Y One of the latest eccentricities of fashion is to dye owl's heads and wings a bright parrot green, and to-place them on the fronts of hats. The pretty fashion of wearing flowers. or ribbon in the hair is again revived. "Debu- tantes especially affect this style. Women who have slender, graceful figures will be quite willing to adopt the, revived fashion of lacing the bodice at the bagk. Petunia and rust red are new shades com- manded by French modistes. Both are be- coming . shades for brunettes without much coloz. The furor for perforated fabrics has made itself felt in every direction. For . white frocks In fabrics that launder the effect is excellent over a color, Ostrich feather trimming made of small tips Is very popular for evening dresses, and comes in sets shaped to outline the neck, with larger feathers to form the sleeves. Skirts worn with evening dresses are made of white brocade, and flounced with innum- erable ruffles of white chiffon, alternated with a pale color, pink, blue or yellow. Many of the newest evening gowns have no inside ruffles or balayeuse in the skirt, and in its place is a box plaiting of rich wide satin ribbon, which adds stiffness to the edge. Evening bonnets consist of a band of cut steel in the front, while across the back is a garland of fine flowers, From a nest of the flowers springs a stift aigret. “Senora” s the name of the new bright shade of Spanish red that Is slightly less vivid than the popular cherry color, but more brilliant than either the geranium or nasturtium dyes. Some of the new models in spring capes have lengthwise rows of cut jet galloon covering the large cape-collar, the galloon effectively edged with a narrow line of black ostrich feather trimming. Silk petticoats display a growlng extrava- gance in material and trimming, which is very discouraging (o the woman with a limited allowance. Colored brocades and moiro silks are used In their construction, with yards of lace and ribbon for decora: tlon, A new gauzy material like crepe lisse, a vard and a quarter wide, in cowslip yellow, sunset pink and pale water green is perfor- ated in this way and is much in demand for the billowy sloeves, exacted by the pres- ent mode. A charming yellow satin gown is made with a plain skirt and a full walst drawn into a folded belt of the same, A large buttterfly bow of creamy lace trims the front of the low. corsage, and a band of brown fur goes over: the shoulders, The largo satin sieeves:are caught in the middle with lace bows. Short, jaunty lltle Juckets will be worn the coming seasorf Just as soon as the weather permits tlie Temoval of heavy coats and capes. Venetlin And ladies' cloths and light qualities of Qerman broadeloth will be used for these JacKets, also black and colored velvets. Mahy! rather striking color- combinaticns will tippear, although there will be plenty of quiet'$y1és for those who prefer them, ¥ ton. Fanny Davenpory, when 7 years old ap- peared in a fairy ‘spegtacle, and played for a week, much 1o uer_delight. The Bmpress Engente in her English hom. 15 constantly besieked by applicants for as- sistance. These coté'ehiefly from France, in the form of begdimk<ldtters, most of them in the nume of religlot Miss Dora Wells is owner and purser of the Puget sound steamship Delta, which runs from Whateom to the San Juan islands and Victorola, B. C., three times a week. She collects fares, wakes contracts for freight and takes & hdnd In navigating the steamer. Miss Maxine Ruby” at Daly's, was a Boston woman long before she went on the stage. 8he then went to London, and made quite & reputation as a dramatic eritic. She also wrote chatty letters American papers about the follies and folbles of “'high soclely. There is no European coustry in which women are more employed than in Fran It is rare to enter a French shop and find 4 man serving as accountant, Bookkeepers are paid from §200 to $600 a year, and ac- countants much the same. In commereial houses, where women are also employed, they often have an interest in the business. Mrs. Heuary M. Stanley has a special fond newspaper ness for parasols, and possesses a collection ot these articles that is unique and valuable. Another Englishwoman, Mrs, Arthur Stan- nard (John Strangs Winter), is partial to old china, and owns several complete sets that aro more than 100 years old. A favorite room in her housa is paneled with oak and entirely decorated with old china. Queen Marguerite of Italy has not only more claims to personal beauty than any other queen {n Europe, but she is possibly the best educated. She reads, writes and speaks fluently French, German, ‘Spanish and Latin, as well as Italian, and Is familiar with the masterpleces of Furopean literature. She has written for her own pleasure a little work on Shakespeare’s heroines. So quietly has Christina Rossett! lived the latter years of her life that the announce- ment of her recent death camo as a sur- prise to some of her readers and admirer Many fancied that the rest of which she sang s0 constantly had already been entered upon by her. A lato picture of the gifted woman shows the samo spirituelle beauty and charm that was immortalized by her brother in his famous picture, “The Girlhood of the Virgin Mary,” painted in 1849, Sybil Sanderson has a_mania for bric-a brac, and her house in Paris, near the Arc do I'Btoile, is a perfect museum of sohvenirs and gifts. All the wreaths of immortelles and laurels which the different composers presented hor with on the night of one of her greatest triumphs are preserved, and her salon is a meleo of photographs, and decora- tions and Jewels adorn every shelf and cab- inet. Miss Sanderson also has a foiblesse for cats, and thinks there is nothing quite s0 sweet in lifo as a small, flufty kitten. Miss Helen F. Schofield has been commis- sioned by General Booth as a lieutenant in the Salvation Army, and he has assigned ber work in the hardest post in San Fran- cisco, among the lowest, of the fallen women. She Is a daughter of Rev. L. M. Schofield, who was the pastor of important Presbyterian churches in California, and who is now in Chicago. Miss Schofleld was graduated with distinction from Mills seminary two years ago, and joined the Salvation Army last April. pibetbin L okido BEATS FICTION HANDS DOWN. Remarkable Story of a Man Who Found Fortune and Lot It. The wildest imagination could scarcely con- ceive of a more intensely interesting story than was unfolded before the Colorado Board of Pardons yesterday, says the Denver News, An unsophisticated young countryman, trayeling on the old Santa Fe trall, discov- ered a box containing $10,000. The treasure 18 allowed to Mo for three years in the dis- coverer's valise in a lone cabin in Kansas Then the young man starts out in the world to invest his fortune. Passing along the streets of Colorado Springs with his valise In his hand he is accosted by an old man, "becomes a companion of the stranger in a rude tent and finally parts with the $10,000, recelving two notes for $10,000 each in payment. Thesenotes are signed by the aged individual, who, according to the story, follows his victim with a devilish maliguity that never ceases in its operations until the too confiding rustic is landed in the state penitentiary under a sentence of twelve long years. The grand denouement came yester- day, when a minister of the gos- pel appeared in behalt _ of the young man before the Board of Pardons, and Governor Waite signed a full and unconditional pardon for Charles E. Keagy. The minister who appeared as the good angel in the case is Rev. John E. Roberts, of a peculiar religious denomination known as the Church of the Living God. The reverend gentleman is as intelligent looking and as handsome a man as one can see in a day's experlence. His story is told in such a plain, straightforward “way that it carries conviction, although it may be stated tbat Judge Campbell of the - distriet court at Colorado Springs, who was elevated to the supremo judgeship, and President W. F. Slo- cum of Colorado_college, do not accept the story as true. On the other hand, the min- Ister’s story- is. supported by the mayor of n new | Elliott, who plays “Heart of | Colorado Springs and numerous prominent citizens of Colorado Springs and Manitou, as well as by experts in handwriting, who, it is claimed, were refused the opportunity Lo oppear.and testify at. the time of the rial, The addreds which the minister delivered betore the Board of Pardons convinced many of the listeners that a gross injustice had been practiced on Keagy. It failed, how- ever, to touch the hearts of a majority of the board, and Governor Waite acted upon his own .responsibility when he fssued the executive order relieving the young man from the cloud that has hung over him for years past. According to Mr. Roberts, the case was first called to Lis attention while in attend- ance at a camp meeting of his church over two years ago at Junction City, Mich. A white haired man arose and toid the story of his son's misfortunes and imprisonment in the penitentiary of Colorado. The re- cital greatly affected the hearers, and right then and there prayers were offered up for the release of the young man and for his vindication, Mr. Roberts pledged to the sorrowing father his utmost efforts in froe- ing his son. Keagy was sent to the penitentlary in No- vember, 1890. From the day he entered the institution good fortune seemed to smile on him. He was made the recipient of every favor the prison officials could bestow, and at the first favorablo opportunity the prison board orderd him transferred to the re- formatory at Buena Vista. 1In less than three months Keagy was released on parole. Ho has visited Denver several times and is at present a prospector in the Cripple Creek gold fields, Mr. Roberts says that Keagy was born near Blkhart, Ind., thirty years ago. *“Hi: mother died when Charles was quite youn; said Mr. Roberts, “leaving Charles and his father to work the farm and support a family of 6ix or seven growing girls. For this rea- son Charles was denled the privilege of a common school education. In 1886 Charles took up land in Stevens county, Kansas, and drove a frelghting team for a living, between Hartlan and Hugoton, while proving up on his claim. While at one of the towns he was de- layed over night by a heavy rain, The next morning ho started for home and as he was crossing a bridge on the Cimarron, on the line of the old Sdnta Fe route, he noticed the end of a wooden box protruding from the opposite bank of the river. The sand had been washed away by the freshet. Upon opening the box he found within it a tin box containing $10,000 in cash, mostly currency.” Mr. Roberts relates how the surprised young teamster carried the treasure to his cabin and hid the money away from sight. There it remained for several years until the young man dispcoad of his Kansas farm and started for Colorado. The evil genlus, according to Mr. Roberts, appeared in the form of Alvin K. Fullam of Colorado Springs. The minister says that Fullam was an old man, apparently on the vergo of starvation, living in a tent. The Women's Christian Temperance union of the city had compassion on him and took up & collection for his benefit. In reality, Mr. Roberts says, Fullam was a miser and it was afterward shown that he was worth $50,000 in money and property. Walking on the streets of Colorado Springs or Manitou, Keagy was accosted by Fullam and a friendship was struck up which resulted in Fullam's getting posseesion of the §10,000 and $2,000 additional which Keagy had accumulated by sslling his ranch and other operations “After securing the money,” says Mr. Rob- erts, “Fullam disappeared and Charles became alarmed. He called to his ald several of the business men of Manitou and every effort was made to ascertaln the whereabouts of Fullam. He was finally located at Friend eb. Fullam returned to Colorado Springs and remalned thero for two weeks without the knowledge of Charles or his friends. It was during Fullam's sojourn at the Springs that Charles' awful fate was planned. He was arrested for forgery and placed behind the bars. The prisoner's money was freely used to conviet him and the only method he had of paylng two young attorneys, who en gaged in his behalf, was to give them his gold watch and other effects.” One of the grand jury refused to vote for indictment because upou comparing signatures he felt convinced that Fullams wrote the fotes, Experts were summoned, but their testimony was ruled out except that of the men with whom Fullam bad his wmoney deposited. All of Charles' witnesses were ruled cut and Fullam’s. signa turo was not allowed to be compared with the signatures on the notes, and Charles, who a short time before had walked the streets of Manitou, Colorado City and Colorado Springs with $12,000 cash in his hand satchel wearing 4 neat suit of clothes worth $75 ud everything to match except experience, was sentenced to Canon City penitentiary for twelve years, THE ART OF In Which Oleverness, Sharp Eyes and Patience Are Oalled Into Play. SHADOWING SHREWD ~ WORK DONE BY BOYS Dutles and Responsibilities of the Shadow Man—tnstances Tilusteative of Work—Fight ns a Lagt Resort. One of the most valuable men on the de- tective force is a first class shadow, and he is also one of the most difficult men to find, for the art of shadowing Is one in which fow excel. A shadow must be able to go without food or sleep for many hours; must havo an eye like a hawk, so as to follow his man two blocks away and not lose him in the crowd; must have the patience to wait in the street for half a day or half a night, always watching a particular doorway, from which the person shadowed may como forth at any moment; must be able to endure all kinds of weather and all extremes of heat and cold, and must be fertile in expedients and always on the alert, so that whatever happens the man who is under survelllance will not escape. Detectives are frequently called upon to shadow for weeks at a time some notorious criminal or respectablo citizen fallen under suspicion. 1t is only a few months sinco one of the Piukerton shadows ‘kept” a famous express robber for five weeks on a stretch, never losiug sight of him night or day, although the man during that time was constantly moving about and made a journey from Louisville to Lexington, Ky. Here was a responsibility of thousands of dollars rest- ing upon one modestly paid man, who had but to fail in the least degree in vigilance or faithfulness during, say twenty hours of each day, and the bird would have flown. But he did not fail, and the express robber was ed when the time was ripe, e bodily fatigue fnvolved in’ shadowing a person, even under the most favorable cir- cumstances, is very great. The man m visit forty places in a day, may take street cars and carriages, may lose himself in the maze of a great office building, or visit some theater, dry goods store or railway station from which there are numorous exits. Wher- ever he goes or whatever he does, the never- resting shadow must be near him at every moment, without allowing his presence to be suspected. He must do this, and does do it, even though the person shadowed sus- pects that he is being watched and is taking every precaution to baflle his pursuers. QUICK-WITTED BOY THE BEST SHADOW So far from being the sharp-featured, “lynx-eyed,” “sleuth hound” fellows they are generally imagined, the shadow detectives are commonplace in the extreme in their appearance. In a great many instances they are not men at all, but lads of 18 or so, such as lounge about on street corners. Mr. Pinkerton has had somo of his greatest suc- cesses In shadowing with boys of 14 or 15, who are able to “‘crawl through a knot hole,” and are never suspected by the parties they are following, even when seen stealing a ride on an express wagon or staring into some shop window. Innocent looking boys have brought more criminals to bay and been instrumental in the discovery of more crimes than would be believed. On one oceasion, just to settle a friendly wager, Mr. Pinkerton gave one of Chicago's great editors a practical illustration of the easo with which a shadow may do his work and yet remain undetected. It was agreed that for a week a shadow should make a complete daily report of the movements and doings of a young lady typewriter employed by the editor during her absence from the office. The idea was not to pry Into the young lady’s life, which was quite exemplary, but merely to furnish a practical test whose truth could be easily verified. Accordingly the report was rendered every day as to where the typewriter took her lunch, what she ate, what person she bowed to, what time she'Teached home, how she spent the evenings, etc. The editor himself took occasion to wait In front of the building at such hours as the young lady would be entering or leaving the office in order to watch the operations of the shadow, in which he was interested. But look as he might he could never see the shadow. He even walked several blocks behind the typewriter on various occasions, scanning every person near her, but he never caught a glimpse of the ghadow. And yet the reports were in every case absolutely correct, as he was able to_verify, Finally, very much perplexed and exceed- ingly curious, the editor went to Mr. Pink- erton and asked him to show him - the shadow whose presence he was unable to de- tect, Much pleased at the sucoess of his ex- periment Mr. Pinkerton walked down the street that.day about lunch time, accompa- nied by his friend, and as they passed tho typewriter he poinfed out a young negro lad who was moving along lazily on the other side of the street. ““There is the shadow who has been turning in the reports all through the week.” The editor was astounded. He admitted that he had seen the negro several times but had never thought it possible that such an unpromising looking lad could b so clever. “That {8 where you make your mistake answered the detective. *‘Some of our best shadowing is done by colored boys like that one. The very fact that no one thinks it possible for them to be detectives makes it easler for them to do their work.” HOW SUSPECTS LOOK FOR SHADOWS, One of the most important features of shadowing is the changing of the shadow as soon as there is reason to believe that the person followed may have suspected him. It often happens that a professional criminal— they being always the most difficult class to follow—will take measures to find <ut whethier any one Is following him or not. For instance, he will jump on a street car at one corner and then Jump off again, after having ridden only ono block. Then he will watch t0 see If any one else gets off, and will then repeat the operation with a ‘following car. It is impossible for even the cleverest shad- ow to continue operations in the face, of such & move, and the only thing left for a de- tective to do in that case would be to re- main quietly on the car and telephone the office at the earliest possible moment that he has lost the scent and to have another man put on, By remaining on the car and not allowing his presence to be discovered the shadow will probably have set at rest the man's suspicions, and it will bo easy for the new shadow to “pick up” the trail again a few hours later, or certainly the next day, by going to the criminal’s home or to some of his familiar haunts, which are us- ually well known. THE SHADOW'S LAST RESORT. It happens not infrequently, however, that a shadow cannot afford to aliow his man to escape him evon for a few hours. Perhaps he {8 pursuing some desperate criminal pend- ing the arrival of requisition papers, or in the Interim of making out a warrant for his arrest. Should such a man, by a clever expedient, force the shadow into either un- masking himself or giving up the chase, the shadow, If ho understood his business, would meet this dificult situation by a trick that has been employed with success more than once by the Pinkerton detectives. Instead of concealing himself any longer he would come forward boldly to the man he has bee following and deliberately pick a quarrel with him. Perhaps ho would address him in an Insulting way, or wote that fnsufficlent, would strike him in the face. Then a scuffie would ensue between the two men, and the outcome would be that both would be are rested and taken to the nearest pollce stas tion for disorderly conduct. There the des tective might reveal his fdontity and the rea~ sons for wishing to have the man held, of he might preserve his Incognito and allow hime solf to be put In & cell over night along with his fellow prisoner. At any rate, no matter what the cost, there are cases like the above whero a shadow would not hesl- tate to take the law into his own hands, or even to break the law, in order to keep the man he has been instructed to guard as he would his life, THE MOST DIFFICULT SHADOWING, As for the actual shadowing through the streets of a large city, this work Is entrusted to men specially skilled in the art, for it {8 an art, of seeing without being seen, This In itselt is one of the most dificult tasks detective 1s called upon to perform, and the ‘rm‘ who do excel in It are glven iittle else o do. In all important cases whore a criminal is being followed upon whose captare much depends, two, three, or even four shadows are employed simultancously, one keeping in advance, one in the rear and two on elther sido. The advantage of this multiple shad- owing s that one relieves the other by change of position, thus lessening the chance of picion, while of course it is scarcely possiblo for' several shadows to bo simul= taneously thrown off tho scont. An adroit criminal’ might outwit a singlo shadow. In cases of shadowing on trains, tho detective, arriving with the suspect in n strango ecity, uses some prearranged mothod of signalling, like a handkerchief In the left hand to. re veal himself to the shadow waiting to re- lieve him. R by BOOKS AND PERIODICALS, PICCINO AND OTHER CHILD STORIES— By Frances Hodgson Burnett, Cloth, $1.60. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. From Megeath Stationery Company, Omaha. A study rather than a story of child life, and somebody says that it is {ndeed a tribute to Mrs. Burnet's faculty to inspire sym- pathy for her creations; that Piccino, like every other wee creaturo she has devised, tempts one to stoop and caress him, despite the fact that soap and water and he are acknowledged strangers. THE BANKING SYSTEM OF THE UNITED STATES—Dy Charles G. Dawes. Cloth, 83 75 cts. Rand, McNally & Co., Chicago. Mr. Dawes {s a practical business man Whose home is in Lincoln, Neb. In this work he lays stress upon the omission of & good many people to see the conspicuous part bank checks and drafts play in the augmen- tation of ecirculation, Increasing tho pur- chasing power of a_community. ~ A man, for instance, borrows $60,000 from a bank and the amount is credited to him on his bank book, less the Interest discount, and he draws checks against it which are deposited by others and play the part of money and so determine largely in the aggregate the money. supply of the country. This bank credit money figures In 94 to 95 per cent of the business _transactions. 8o decreased de- posits and decreased loans decrease tho coun- try’s purchasing power and in time of panics and depression the absence of bank credit money makes the real hardship of the period. In the chapter “How Bank Credit Money Is Created” a very clear statement Is made of the part this money plays in business. The author advises the creation of a safety fund to secure depositors in failed national banks by levying a small tax on each na- tional bank and more stringent iaws for ex- amining the condition of banks. SEA YARNS FOR BOYS—By W. J. Hen- derson. Cloth, 195 pages. Harper & Brothers, New York. From Megeath Sta- tionery Company, Omaha. The telling of a story is everything, and it is more than everything in a combination of fish story and fairy tale, such as is the collection of yarns here strung together. Saiflor slang and swagger add a pecullar charm to the adventures among the sea ser- pents and the mermaids and all tho odd classes of people and things encountered fn tho career of a vessel upon the high seas. The book is liberally illustrated and makes & capital holiday book for boys and girls. TWILIGHT LAND—By Howard Pyle. Cloth, 437 pages. Harper & Brothers, New York. From = Megeath Stationery Company, Omaha. “Twilight Land,” the author tells us, “Is & wonderful, wonderful place, where no sun shines to scorch your back as you jog along the way, where no rain falls to make the road muddy and hard to travel, where no wind blows the dust into your eyes or the chill into your marrow. Where all {s sweet and quiet and ready to go to bed.” So he goes on evading and answer yet telling the little reader that where you find things as he describes them, there is Twilight Land, Indeed, when all the queer stories in this collection of falry tales have been read the young reader will find himself living in Twilight Land, and a happy-go-lucky place, indeed, he will find it. 6,000 TONS OF GOLD. lain. Cloth, 349 pages, $1.26. cent, Meadville, Pa. This story has already met with consider. able favor as a serfal In the Chautauquan, and aside from its interest as an exciting ros mance, deals with the monetary question. SPOON RIVER DAN. By Laura Evering- ham Scammon. Cloth, 62 pages, 60 cents Hudson-Kimberly ~ Publishing ~ Company, Kansas City. From the opening sentence the reader feels that the writer is sure of her ground, There {8 no tremulous tone, nor the vasclls lating uncertainty that belongs to the traveler through unexplored or only partially known territory. Mrs. Scammon's sentences are com= pact, cloge cut and usually indicative, She puts her Teader at ease in the course of the first page. You read to the last, and find when you have finished that all else meantime had sunk into oblivion. Is not this absorbed in+ terest in itself proof of the talent of the writer and the excellence of her work? Th conversations of Sal and Dan are realisms that would bring a playwright fame and fortune it he could find capable “artists' to impersonate these two life-like characters, It the title page had bLeen left anonymou: critics, who are yet slow to acknowledge the talent of a woman, would declare that the story was written by a man, with no thought of he fact that many a man, known as a reasonably successful author, could not equ the style nor paint the pen pictures with the vivid glow which Mrs, Scammon gives them. BOOKS RECEIVED. MINISTERS OF GRACE. By Eva Wilder McGlasson. Cloth, 141 pages. Harper & Bros., New York, From Megeath Stations ery Company, Omahu, THE FEDERAL INCOME TAX EX- PLAINED, By John M. Gould and George F. Tucker. Cloth, 108 pages. Little, Brown & Co., Boston, From Kinsman & McCloud, Omaha, THEE PARASITE. By A. Conan Doyle, Cloth, 148 pages, Harper & Bros, New York, From Megeath Btationery Company, Omaha. ST. JOHN'S WOOING. By M. G. McClels land. Cloth, 175 pages. Harper & Bros,, New York. From Megeath Stationery Com- pany, Omaha. THE BORDERLAND OF CZAR AND KAISER, By Poultney Bigelow. Illus trated by Frederlc Remington, Cloth, 348 pages. Harper & Bros., New York, From Megeath Stationery Company, Omaha. THE PROTESTANT E PAL ALMA- nac and Parochial List. Paper, ~26c. Thomas Whittaker, 2 aud 3 Bible House, New York. By H. R. Chambers Flood & Vine The Best Food Is that which best nourishes brain, nerves and muscles, Quaker Oats d oes it. Sold only in 2 Ib. Packages.