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THE OMAHTA DAILY BERE: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 1894, Woman's: Domain. T'd like to speak to Miss Edith pr|v|h‘,"‘ sald & woman who had been a servant in Miss Edith's family, but who now took lodgers. “Miss BAith," sho began, after some pre- Mminary remarks, “I'm told that Mr. Ripley comes here consid'able. And, Miss Edith, you know what I've always thought of your family, and that any one of you young mm.[ i Bt for the best in the land, and I'm’ not | sayin' but what Mr. Ripley Is a worthy young man; but 1 think I owe It to you,| Miss Edith, to tell you that ho gets terrible affectionate letters from a young lady named ‘Belle.’ “I've no right to interfere with his le ters,” sald Edith, but her voice trembled. | “And how do you know anything about it, Ann? You wouldn't read his letters.” “No, indeed, Miss Edith; far be it from me to read anybody’s letters when they're in the whole sheet and done up proper in en- | velopes; but when a man tears up his le ters and scatters them round his room, have the right, as nobody can deny, plece them together and make what nay be out of them; and I hold that it's my duty for your family’s sake, and for your sake, Miss Edith.” A few days later Ann paid anotber visit, and this time she announced, “Miss Edith, my mind’s at rest, and I hope yours will be, | 200. 1 pleced together a letter from his| mother last night 1 out that Belle Is his sister, 1 | to and found Woman's struggle for hygienic and un- artistio dress reform, which (respasses well over the border lines of masculine attire, is a hard one, and very slow of results. But she can take courage from the fact that here and there an earnest advocate of her cause crops up who is courageous enough to walk the streets in short skirts and leg- gings, ride horseback in a bloomer costume, and never mind the gibes which are thrown at_her from the passers-by. Miss McCormick, a successful young artist of Pacific Grove, Cal, is a recent example of this kind of fortitude. The short skirt i a matter of convenience to her, and she has adopted it for all outdoor occasions. For fear of shocking the villagers by her sudden change in dress, she began by making her skirts just below her shoo tops, and shortening them a half inch every day, until now they barely reach the knee. Her cos- tumes are made by a Sun Francisco tailor, and are said to be very chic and becoming. Ona is of gray corduroy with a skirt to the kness, and corduroy leggings fastened all the way up with leather straps and buckle The coat is made long, and worn over a walst coat of the same, double-breasted. A dalnty shirt and an Ascot tie give it the fin- ishing touch. A more dressy suit is of white corduroy. For long tramps, when she i3 on sketching tours, she has a suit of English_serge with russet leggings, and a leather belt. Miss McCormick is at present engaged In painting horses in the corral just outside of the hotel grounds of Del Monte. A writer in the Medical Magazine, who has yitnessed the Berlin method of disinfecting room, describes tha cleansing of an apart- ment in which a child had died of diphtheria: Four men were engiged. After everything that could be subjected to steam without detriment had been removed to the disio- | fecting station, all the things were removed from the walls, and the men began rubbing theso with bread. Ordinary German loaves aro used, forty-eight hours old. The loayes aro cut Into substantial chunks about six Inches square, the back of each piece con- sisting of the crust, thus allowing of a good purchase. The walls are systematically at- tacked with strokes from above downward snd there can be no question as to its effi- cacy In cleaning them, nor does the opera- tion take as long as ome would imagine. The crumbs are swept up and burned. After this the wals .are thoroughly sprinkled with a 6 per cent carbolic acid solution. The floor 18 washed with a 2 per cent carbolic acld solution, and all the polished sood- work and ornaments as well. Mrs. Eliza Archard Connor read a paper on Refncarnation” before the usual meeting of the Brooklyn Philosophical society. For the benefit of such who may not know, it is added that this soclety exists to gain knowl- edge and compare ideas by means of le tures and discussions. It has the reputation of belng merciless in criticism, and it did not belle this at its last meeting. A less self-contained woman than Mrs, Connor would have succumbed under the seathing comment which followed her paper, some of them set forth in that spirit of cleverness which *‘guillotines nest- ness ' with a mot and urns the ashes of a life In a phrase.” Mrs. Connor was fully equal to_her critics, however, and it is only just to the soclety to say that her routing of them was as cordially enjoyed as its “holiday’’ of the previous half hour, when she was beng “butchered.” Mrs. Rorer evidently endorses Marlon Har- land's view of the ‘“tyrant potato.” Says the former: “Life is too short to be spent n digesting potatoes. 1 never eat them n any form. You might as well put pleces of miea Into your stomach as Al it with Saratoga chips.” It is undoubtedly true that in_many households nowadays the potato habit is much lessened. Time was when potatoes fried for breakfast, baked for lunch- eon and mashed or plain boiled for dinner was the logical course of table events in almost every well regulated famlly. The breakfast cereal has practically banished it from the first meal of the day, it s often absent from the luncheon board, and it is really only at dinner that it is apt to be in perennial evidence. A dish of boiled rice or samp or baked hominy will be found an excellent substitute for the berated Irish tuber, which, while not perhaps guilty of all the Indictments agalnst it, might well be relegated to an occasional rather than an everlasting appearancy A delicious compote of the hard green cooking pears can be produced by stewing them very slowly in an earthenware vessel. Peal evenly, leaving the stem. To two quarts of pears add four medium sized quinces, peeled, cored and quartered. Let them stew, with frequent bastings, in a sirup made from one and & half cups of sugar and two cups of bolling water, FRENCH F. How the Parisle: PARIS, Oct. 20. will continue the fashion this winter to have the sleeves very large and the hair combed down over the ears. Other detalls more or less important pale before these two. It the statement seems hyperbolic the Teader can verify it by observing a woman at any juncture where her dress is of im- portance. Always her hand involuntarily sceks the part of it with which fashion is for the moment preoccupled, to see that it is’ enough Aistended or collapsed, and at present when she dresses, or Is about to enter & room, or sees somebody coming on whom she wants to make an impression, she pulls out her sleeve tops and pats her hair A little furthor down over her ears, just as & man when about to encounter & good looking | The | woman begine to curl his mustache, same mustache always remains to twirl, but fashion flies with its collapses and dis- tensions from one part of feminine dress to another, and the preoceupation of the wearer follows. It Is a sure sign (o polnt out the moda. ‘The models themsclves bear out the obser- vation, Width ls the ides, width every- where except at waist and wrists, which by contrast look very delicate, and all fictitious helght banished from bat and halr, which rise scarcely highor than the top of the head. It Is thus by grafting and pruning that a pronounced style is arrived at. This pr nounced style of today is decidedly novel and is ebarming, of course. Each new ex- | outline | the preferred material. for the evening, according to the mode that will rule for this winter, as follows The head, It must be observed, has grown small [n effect between the enormous sleeves | and the width of the skirt, and for this reason there is a space of longitude on each | side, and fashion has taken possession of it | for the halr. The halr is waved all round | its borders, particularly round the back and | sides, and is rolled off the forehead, rolled drooping over the ears and rolled up from the back of the neck, all very loose—goufle, as the cciffeur says, which means swollen, | and all drawn together low at the back, on & level with the top of the ears, and the ends there twisted into a cord that fs knotted with a loop drawn through, such as we ha all learned to make. The knot is very small and counts for little in the effect; fashion asks only the billowy roll round the face and neck, and cares not how It spends itself. This Is the coiffure for daytime, that for the evening is somewhat higher. The hair is rolled up near the crown of the head and there twisted into a coque then the ends are divided into two strands, | each twisted separately and the two twisted | together to form a rope, which Is carried | round the coque to the fop, and there the | ends are curled and frizzed out to fill the between the coque and the top of the head. Pearls may be twisted into the | rope and a pompon be placed at one side There I8 a rumor that flowers will be worn but it is too early yet to tell; my idea is that | they will not succeed if tried. It is thought not too eccentric to part an evening coiffure on one side if (his sty'e becomes the face. | The present fashion is particularly well planned for people with little hair, sinee it makes length of minor importance. The eficct of thickness may be increased by part- ing the hair off round the edge and roughing | it up from behind with the comb. It is made to stay out very goufle with shell side combs, three or four being used when neces- sary. For combs and lerge hairpins shell is There is no longer any talk of bangs, the flow of hair over the ears seeming to take their place in softening | the contour of the face, but if the face will not support a clear -forehead some light frizzes may fall at each side, but leaving the space open In the middle, SLEREVE SUBTLETIES. If it is not modest to show the ears any more there 18 no longer a good figure with- out double width across the shoulders. Shorn of a proper sleeve one s a mere picked chicken, thin and hateful to the eyes, and a proper sleeve, it Is that which in a side view blots the waist completely out and has obliged the fashion artists to give up drawing the profile. The sleeve is the key of the gown and the test of the dressmaker It has an_air of simplicity in the best specimens, But defy yourself of this sim- plicity. It iIs a deception. It is not cut up into intricate parts, it is only & gigot, but it is a gigot shaped with infinite refine- ment of line. It is an etruscan vase besido an ornate flower modeled pot; one could say of it—"Oh, attic shape! fair attitude!—and not stretch verity. It issues horizontally from the armhole in guages or plaits accord- ing to the guaiity of the material, and at a sufficient distance out it curves over and takes its subtle cours: converging downward like an inverted vase to a wrist of the most delicate possible, even running out to a point on the hand. No inch of its surface but is studied form, Sometimes it Iis broken into two parts at the elbow, though that is another sleeve and another matter, but the general effect of outline remains the same, Into such perishable form do we nowadays put our falr attitudes! They have even to ba shaken up before company arrives, like old Mrs. What's-Her-Name in Dickens. To trim this marvellous creation is to manifestly gild the lily and the most per- fect specimens are unadorned. With fair logic on the other hand it is being made of material different from the bodice, throw- ing it out into greater relief. Here must be observed an essential point in design. It doesn’t do not to make the sleeve material enter into the bodice (o some slight form, as otherwise a cut-off look Is the result, but a relation must be established that deceives the eye into belleving that these velvet sleeves have issued perhaps from some velvet undergarment or other. To give this effect the bodice must be slashed over velvet, or appliqued upon velvet, or in some other way pretend to be lald upon the sleeve material. The idea is simple enough and quite true to art. It is the idea inspiring some.of the new models. DESCRIPTION OF NEW GOWNS. The materials are dark reddish mauve silk barred with pale mauve, velvet of the same color and a very open passementerie made of cord and chenille. The sleeves are velvet, tho bodfce a~blouse slightly bout- fant in front, with two vertical bands of passementerie set in as insertions over vel- vet laid on the lining underneath and form- Ing a trapsparency. The skirt has passe- menterie ower velyet laid down each side the front, each side the back breadth, and round the foot at a little distance from the edge. The velvet Is laid on the skirt to avold cutting, A passementerie ornament filis each corner of the trimming at the bottom, and the neckband and belt are of velvet. Theso are rich materlals; the same effect will be produced in wool crepon with velvet | ribbons in place of the passementerie and | bows shaped trlangularly in the angles of | the skirt. | To some gowns width 1s added in the form of ruffies, “rains” of passementerie or| jabots that fall from the top of the shoulder down, following the under arm seam to the belt and framipg tho waist on each side. An afternoon house reception gown showing this idea is of greem-blue silk, with velvet of the same color and iridescent orna- ments. The skirt, bodice front and slecves are of the silk spangled over with iri- descent sequins embroidered on by hand. The bodice and open side fronts are of vel- vet, the whole forming a blouse front open over the silk. A velvet bow on each shoulder Tests out upon the sléeve, and from it falls a rain of iridescent beads to the belt. On the left sido of the skirt is an insert of black net sewn with iridescent beads laid over velvet, that Is yery wide at top, cover- ing the hip, and narrows down to a point near the foot, Ita edge Ia cut In an irregu- attern and is appliqued down with a el ADA CONE. SUGAR PARTIES, { MAPLE How to Give Them in Approved Fashion Without Golng Tnto the Snow Regio To give a sugar party quite up to date it is not mecessary to charter a car and steam away for Vermont hills, as the Seward Webbs do at the first flurry of the white snow flakes, nor is it at all requisite that snow or a farm house enter info the sweet calculations at all, for sugar parties of the most enjoyable kind are being given right in the city every evening mow since the chilly weather began. And lest you may not have heard of them, here is a descrip- tion of the way they are conducted. The first requisite Is the mapie sugar. Perhaps way up in Vermont or way ‘‘down’ in Maine there is a dear old grandma or a thoughtful country aunt who each autumn sends the brown solidity down to you for the first buckwheat cakes. Or, perhaps, you know a good, reliable farmer who wili spare you twenty or :o pounds of it. It will arrive in a deep tin like a milk pan and will lift out as It it were made of wood— clear cut and even in color, but much heavier than wood. The first using of the sugar should be for | & Vermont sugar party. For this you may | erack wp a quantity of the sugar, not very much, for it increases wonderfully as it melts. The young people who are to enjoy the treat have been, of course, previously in vited, and when you break the sugar they are sitting around the dining table playing country games and waiting to be called into the kitcheu, where the feast is spread. Put the sugar in a shallow pan, in which there (s not auite enocugh water to cover the bottom of the pan, and add a lump of but- ter in the proportion of a butternut to & heaping cup of the broken sugar. Now, let the sugar melt and gradually be- gin to bubble over the fire, but be careful that it does not burn, A double bolier is an excellent thing for cooking sugar of all kinds, m?hn of dross art pushes interest in the oue to limbo, for menkind is a curious animal and must be amused when he sees himself as ho might be and not as he is. LATEST FASHION FOR THR HAIR, Leoutherie hes explalued tc me the ar- rangement of & cotffure for the day and one as it prevents sticking. When the sugar has boiled a few minuies take a teaspoon of 11t and drop It Into & glass of ice water. It lit stays In & mass and even retalns a lit- Me shape it is ready to be caten. Neow comes thebeauty of the feast. The “Improved” up to date part, as it were. Take from the kitchen shelves as many ple tins as there are young people to sit around the Kitchen table. Fill the tins full of ed fce, made very finé, and place a silver fork at the side of cach dish of fce. Al the signal the young peoplg come troop- Ing in. They seat themselves, all wonder- ing at the dishes of ice, and, of course, they cannot fmagine what is to come next. Can it be oysters, or what? Then with a big spoon the sugar Is dropped in little amber heaps in the middle of each dish of pulver- fzed ice, and a minute later all the sugar forks are winding and twisting the tugar lumps into cool, sweet mouthfuls. Th's can be repeated as often as the taste of the compatty will permit, and if all do not de- clare it the ideal sugar boiling, then the latest invention of the pleasure loyving young people of New York amounts to nothing at all TIQUWE OF © vory Woman Can Regulate Ior Varlons Costumen Alwaysto 1o (orreetly Attired. “What are you going to wear? Oh, that perplexing query that treads on the heels of every invitation! “Whatever you wear youw'll wish you hadn't,” said a gay little cosmopolitan just lome from a long visit in the smart circles of London soclety, in answer Ao this same question a few days ago. Them she went on to say: ““Anywhere else but in this country an invitation for a particular time in the day, breakfast, luncheon, dinner or ball, or ¥ be, makes de riguer a cer- toilet. But here! If you dress even for a dinner—that most formal of all social functions—the chances are that you will be the only woman in a decollette frock And as for a theater party, the safest way is to go in opera rig, and then put on a mackintosh and galoshes, so that you can S8, | keep both extremes of the dress of the other women in countenance!” But this pert young thing exaggerates, of course. It's true as preaching that our social life In the large cities is as yet so unstable that there are no fixed formulas rigorously en- forced with regard to dress for special occa- sions, And Flora McFlimsy? She is bidden to a ibreakfast,”” shall we #ay? Or a luncheon? S0 far as dress Is concerned, they are iden- tleal. ~Or to a wedding? Ditto as to dress. And this should be a handsome high- necked and sleeved gown, with elther a bouquet or a hat of equally smart appear- ance, and gloves. Note bene. Flora keeps that fetching head. gear on from the time she leaves her mirror tll she gets back to it again. If the eating part of the function is done sitting at table she takes off her gloves after she sits down. Otherwise she keeps them on all the time. The dress may be light, it better be of silk or have enough about it to give a very dressy appearance, and lace and all other rich stuffs are au fait so long as they are adaptable to the high bodice. The fashion- able sleeve now ends oftenest at the elbow, but unless one's forearm Is very good look- ing ungloved (it's bad form to take off the hand of the glove only and tuck it in the wrist, better have a handsome long sleeve. Puckered chiffon extending to a point on the wrlst is very becoming, and not always in the soup, as a fall of lace has a penchant for being. I Flora is asked to assist the hostess at an afternoon reception she can wear a gown half low in the neck, and it may be as partyfied in tint and texture as she pleases, and she must dress her hair nattily and tuck an ornament of ribbon or of gold or shell therein. But unless she “‘assists” she must wear a bornet or hat, and a calling toilet, less dressy than for a Iuncheon, preferably a stylish cloth gown with effective trimming and fault~ less fit and finish. A lady should not wear a wrap into a drawing room on any other occasion than when making a short call, never at an affair for which cards have been sent out, The girls who assist, the hostess about the tea table should not wear gloves unless they live beyond the reach of manicures, All the wumen guests wear their gloves with as much precision as their bonnets, For a dinner Flora should assume a low- necked gown and a pretty one. If it is a formal function she will take her gloves oft at the table, if not she will leava them in the dressing room. There are women still Wwho wear bonnets or hats at dinners, but their names are writ large in the debit ledger of polite society. For any sort of an evening party in a private house the rule is invariably a party gown and uncovered head, and gloves, ora, when in doubt as to what the others are going to do, will nevertheless herself dress correctly if she is wise. There fis always a happy medium between the ex- tremes of right and wrong dress, but draw the lina between white chiffon and a pretty pale silk, If afraid of over-dressing. Do not wear headgear in the evenin Never? Well, hardly ever. There is, to be sure, the theater party. One woman does not wish to be the only one with uncovered head in a party. It would be in better taste to honor one's host or lostess at a theater party by dressing ap- propriately. This would mean swallow tafl coats for the men; and In this country, for the women, gowns ,the effect of which is light and ornamental, but little 1f at all low at the neck, and no head covering, and pretty coiffures, It there is a dinner party firct the guests will of course wear evening @i c4 at least to the above extent, and go in carriages, Where the party meets at the theater or some other rendezyous, and Flora s at a loss to know what the other girls are going to wear, since she can not depend upon them doing the fight thing, and does not wish to render herself conspicuous by dress- Ing—as Cynious says undressing—more than they do, she can do this always with safety That s in American cities. I e, she can wear a handsome dark skirt of silk or satin or wool, and a pale tinted silk bodice, because the latter locks so much more dressy than any dark colored one This “‘body’ may have any of the furbelows of the day, as a chiffon “stock” with ro- scttes or wing bows, and lace collarette or revers, etc. Then she will wear light, per- fectly fresh gloves, and if she does not go in a carriage, and does nat like to risk the ite uncovered head in_the theater or to wear a head scarf of chiffon in'the street cars, she may wear one of the jaunty little apologies for an opera bonmet that are now in vogue. Let it be tiny, becoming, and little more than a head dress his will look enough'like & bonnet to pass muster if all the others wear them and will not be obtrusively a chapeau if none of the others do more than dress their hair modishly. One thing more. The American woman is forever finding herself in a hotel. If she eats in the public dining room ft is in the best taste for her to wear a simple stroet dress, and preferably her hat. A woman of fashion and reflnement does not dress for the opera, and then go with uneovered head and shoulders through the public corridors of a hotel, nor sit where any one with the price of a dinner in his pocket may sit at the next table staring at her conspicuous- ness. If she is going out in the evening and dresses for the occasion before dinner she should dine in a private room, if she be in full evening tollet. Now Design for Tea Cloth, Any new fancy that adds beauty or sug- gests a thought in the belongings of that cosy function “afterncon tea,” Is always welcomed. The design of the little clock, with the hand pointing to the consecrated hour in the tiny dial is quite & new idea for the delicate embroidery In the corner of the tea-cloth, The design may be elabo- rated by using the figure § in large bold form with a spray of forget-me-nots en- twined In one corner. The mext shows the letter O; the third cormer has the little clock; the fourth closes the circle with a ; the whole reading “Five o'clock The spray of forget-me-nots is grace- fully arranged through each of the letters. The tiny clock is, however, the chief point and may be used with a vine-work or clus- ters of flowers as the other cormer pieces. Place the face of the clock in the corner, 50 that the figure XII is set to read up- warda, The frame ls worked In white silk, 4 close long and short stitch (Keosington) to glvo & solld form to the octagon: inner eircle which outlines the dial done in white. The short cross lines and the dial fg- ures are In light yellow as are also the hour and minute hands. The spray of forget-me- nots has the leaves done very delicately in shades of gray-green, while the flowsrs are stars of light blue with the suggestion of yellow in the center. The story is simply but plainly told: The hour for “high tea” well marked, while the drooping flowers say quite clearly, though silently, ‘‘forget-me- not.” ARTISTIC LUNCHEON EFFECTS. A vew Idea for serving salad, chicken, fish or potato comes from Colorado, where under the sunlit skies everything grows deep colored and luzuriant. The large green cu- cumber is the basis. Cut the ends off and take a slice Jengtlwise from ore side until the meat or heart is reached. With a sharp pointed knife remoye this carefully and fill the little green 'boat with the chopped salad Decorate each end with a bit of small erisp lettuce leaf. Place the whole in the center of some circling ledyes of lettuce, and secve in individual salad plates a silver fork laid in each. Tomatoes are emptied and filled with salad iu tbe same fashion, and, alter nated with the cucumbers, the effect Is quite pretty The deep-curled kale fs much basis for low flowgr decorations. The deep strung involutigns fit closely and perfectly around pansies, geraniums, chrysanthemums Arranged in a silver bowl, or a ‘shallow glass dish, with an underbed of soft moss, quite wet, the leaves will keep green and fresh for hours. GUEST-BOOK COVER. The friendly seutiment that gave the custom of a handsome register bo which each visitor places his or her name with the date, and the addition of some pleasant record has met with such response, that in almost every town and country home one finds in the library or morning-room the guest-book with its story of hospltality | and happy times. With much use the vol- ume gets rubbed and worn. And some kind of a protecting cover is almost a necessity. It may be of plush, of satin, ecru or white | linen, with an Interlining of one layer of flannel and a lining proper of soft silk. Cut it a little deeper than the volume and fully two inches wider on each side so that when the book is ed the cover overlaps. The edges are neatly overhanded together, a small gold or silk cord added around the edge as a finish. If the cover is of plush or satin, the lettering or design should be of gold thread, but if of linen gold colored silk is used, and the design worked in out- line. In the linen cover the silk lining Is put in with a long stitch for easy removal when laundered. The words ‘“‘Guest Book' in large gdld outline is frequently put across the center of the cover. A pretty and ap- propriate couplet to follow can be found fo A smaller lettering below. “Our devious lives do pass some waves of time in company—" “Farewell goes out sighing, Welcome ever smiles. “'Good folks are Take care of me, One may find many a quaint unused line for thelr own particular book, if it is borne in mind. The also used as a rise to Kk in GUARDINC WE Fashionable Women Utllize Thelr Big Sleevo and (rush Collar When Traveling. NEW YORK, Nov. 1.—(Special)—Emma Abbott, during her stage career, employed a prominent jeweler to invent cunning cealments for carrying about her splendid collection of precious stones, The singer's favorite mode of transporting them was in her paniers. Hip puffs were fashionable then and little chamols pockets were sewed in- side for holding a great number of valuable ornaments. The jeweler never told of the hiding places of the jewels while paniers were in vogue, and Mrs. Abbott declared she felt safer with her jewelled paniers on than 1f she had a body guard about her. Now-a-days the crush collar so universally popular is’ employed very frequently as a temporary traveling safe. Its loose - folds usually made of velvet provide many small pockets which, when lined with chamois skin, serves the purpose excellently. The average soman carries her treasures in a small leather. bag slipped instde her cor- sct, but this Is out of the queéstion with women who own from $50,000 to $500,000 worth of jewels. Not only would the load be cumbersome, but ‘Injurious. Any continued pressure of clothes br bone against a woman’s bosom is hurtful, But the burden of gold and stones would undolibtedly create cancer. A physician whom I queried on the subject said ke had fpstituted a crusade against the habit. A woman's breast, he remarked, was one of the most seusitive spots to can- cerous growth, tYierefore the slightest pressure there should be avoided. A well known getress who owns a few dozens of diamonds has had several little bags made that are fastened with safety pins along the lines of her stocking supporters. These supporters eonsist of four strong silk elastic straps depending from a small satin belt which sha fastens securely about her waist, giving it additional safety by doubly pinning it to her corsets. So down the straps which are kept taut by the stockings are fastened these little jewel cases. She says they do mot Interfere at all with her walking; but as she is a poor pedestrienne It would cely do to take her word on it. The heavy leather belt recently adopted has proved a boon to the summer woman tourist, for several of these belts were sent to jewelers to have negluious leather pockets fitted into the inside. ““But, possibly,” sald a feweler, who makes of these devices a specialty, *“the chamois skin belt worn under the petticoat and over the corsets is thé fayorite mode of conceal- ment. The girdle is preferably fashioned at a jeweler's. It does not fit at the waist line proper, for then it would interfere with the curve, but clings to the hips. It has the same compartment method, 1s caught to the cor- sets with light steel pins, and firmly fastened in the back with these pins. None of the jewels are placed In the extreme back, for Sitting erect agalnst a chalr might prove un- comfortable.” Large sleeves,” said another jeweler on Broadway, “have proved a boon in this case t0 many diamond owners. We have had a number of these leg-0'-mutton sleeves belong- g o heavy cloth gowns sent us to have chamois cloth fitted in them. Here safety Is absolute, for the pleces are distributed so that the weight will not pull down the cloth. The chamois is put uext to the skin as an inner lining, but cut equally as full as the sleeve. Bach pocket is arranged so that the owner can get at them without ripping. I suppose we have fixed a dozen after this man- ner for Buropean travelers.” All these designs are adopted for the woman out-of-doors. For the woman indoors there is usually the fron safe for the pos- sessor of rare and numerous jewels, All the women of the Vanderbilt, Astor and Gould families have such deposits and guests who visit them are requested to put their jewels in_the same deposit, Women owning a falr sprinkling of good stones usually have a small combination safe to place on thelr mantels or in their ward- robes. This safe is screwed down from the Inside to the woodwork, where it is placed, and a thief needs to know the combination to be able to get at the screws. Rich women who go to Newport, London or Paris for a season seldom carry their jowels with them. They take them tb either of the two best known jewelers here who have branch houses In all prominent citles and order them shipped to the branch of the house In the plac they are to visit. Ildenti- fication papers are fixed, signatures are sent and the person td Whom the papers are made out enters her applitation with all due refer- ences to the branch firm and obtains her jewels. This saves all trouble and puts her to little expense. THANKSGIVING RECIPES, con- Rich gnd Yoolublne Disnes Sultable for Festal Dinner 'artios. Oyster crabs are distinctly the newest thing in the way of autumn appetiders. Private familiés Jave not patronized this dish extensively s yet, for this especlal variety of moliask-is not widely known a a delicacy. Two' years ago chefs and epi- cures discovered the lttle animal and now that which was throwa away has become the corner stone in the buillding of a dinner. An oyster ordb'is found clinging to the bost variety now comes from Baltimore, but it takes not only an appreciative palate, but an appreciative purse to enjoy them, com- ing as they do as high as $1 for six dogen or $2.60 a quart. And this at the market, Consequently $2 is thought a reasonable price for one small portion at the restaurant where one s dining out. A la Newberg is the favorite way to pre- pare them. The recipe for this dish given by oxcellent chefs is after this fashion Drop them into a hot saucepan with butter, adding a glass of cream, stir for five min- utes, then remove at the first Intimation of boiling. Prepare a liaison of the yolk of two eggs with a spoonful of raw eream. Just before serving pour this into a saucepan, stirring over a slow fire until it thickens; If it 18 allowed to touch the boiling point it will be like scrambled eggs. rason with sait, pepper and little nutmeg. These crabs also make a delightful lancheon dish, stirred in a hot saucepan with a little butter and cream and served on buttered toast They are also made up into patties in the same manner, for entrees Chet Ranhoper of Delmonico’s says that he usually pours a little Madeira wine over his abs a la Newberg and finds that it materially benefits the flavor. This ° chel also has a preparation of these crabs he terms a la Salamander. His recipe is to take some nicely washed, me- dium sized and deep oyster shells, setting them on a stralght baking sheet. Drain the oyster crabs, season them with salt, black pepper and ted pepper and fill the large | shells, Strew over them bread crumbs and | grated cheese, sprinkle “with butter and | brown In a quick oven, serving the shells as soon as dome. No sauce is used on the crab: OYSTER R new ways of preparing oysters are always interesting and one way that I learned lately should be given the benefit of a trial, The dish 1s ecalled Jamd Take some ch astragon and a few capers, put tar and thoroughly pestle. Add one-quarter pound of butter: press the whole through a sieve and mix with bread crumbs. Open the shells, leaving the oyster in a deep shell and mask each one with this preparation. Bake them in a hot oven for five minutes and serva at once, The ohef who originated this tasteful con- coction also makes the best of stuffed oy ters. His method Is to chop up some lobster, a little onion, add eream sauce and stir untii thick. He puts this to cool while he cuts the hard bit out of the oyster and then fills the void with the prepared stuffing. The oysters are then breaded and fried a la pom padour. ' This, he considers, an excellent ‘taster’ to precede a Thanksgiving dinner. Delmonico makes a skewer of oysters that Is fine. The oysters are blanched and a skewer run through each, pinning as it does a thin slico of fat bacon, cut longer than the oyster; some butter is sprinkled over and they are boiled over a quick fire and served on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. THE THANKSGIVING TURKEY. And now for the pride of the Thanksgiving dinner—the turkey. Of which one might uso the sentence given to wine—'"that which s a poor dinner and glorifies a good LISHES, Some “ I St a little into a mor- ry cook., even a passable one, knows how to cook a turkey—but tome of the re- cipes for stuffing that I learned by a tour of chefs recently, are new and appetizing. A_noted and patriotic hotel chef intends to Ml his Thanksgiving birds with stuffing 4 la Americaine. This is composed of bread crumbs, soaked for half an hour, squeezed dry and mixed with sliced raw apples, a littlo parsiey, thyme and sage. A little chopped sau Will he added: One of the Vanderbilts will turkeys prepared after the fashion adopted in a leading French restaurant. The stuffing is made up of bread crumb pate de foie gras and truffics, highly seasoned After the turkey has begun to roast, a pint of dry champagne is poured very slowly over It. Tt s a delicacy to be desired only by those whose palates require rich food, but there (s no questioning its being delighttul both in flavor and taste, Chef Ranhofer always wi in buttered brown paper an. the braziere in which ft slices of fat pork. He al:o garnishes muny of his turkeys with black olives. At this same restaurant will be served an epicure’s dish of turkey wings. These latter are scalded, cleared of all pin feathers, the fleshy part boned, then soaked. A saucepan Is lined with fat pork and the wings are moistened with mircpoix stock. They are cooked an hour, then drained and set on a dish. The stock is strained through a nap- 2| have their raps his turkeys a generally lines Is cooked with Yale Greatest Complexionand enlth Specinlist, 1S i Yale's Hair Tonie, Turns gray hair without dye. T PRICE to it own natu rat_and only mistry known to in from 24 hours to o t growth, cures d scalp troubl What 1s 10 'see either a la full of little scale shoulders? Yale's Frutienra. Mme. Yal Kkinds of § for ful cure for all ce, §1 per bottle; Yale's Al Refines o and lovely Cranm. pores, keeps the skin smooth Price, 31, to remove wrinkles and every trace Price, $L.50 and $3. Yale's Mol and Warl Extractor. Removes and destroys forever moles and warts, Price, $. of age. and Omtment, e, Black Heads and Skin Dise: with Mme, Yale pecial Lotion Special Olntm . Guarantee 's Bust Food. nteed to develop a beautitul bust and K; gives firmness to the flesh and creates a natural condition of plumpness. Price, $1.50 and 3. ecret of the Queen of Beauty MME. M. YALE'S “EXCELSIOR" Complexion and Other Remedies WERE AWARDED WORLD'S FAIR MEDAL AKD DIPLOMA. Showing the domestic ME, ture MME superlority and foreign remedies. YALE (s the Creatc Indorsed by Congress. YALE, who is acknowledged to ba a_very beautifal woman, still continues to grow more beautiful cvery day. Age does Dot _seem to affect her marvelous beauty. Her secret lles in the use of her own won derful Remedies. They combine within theie composition every ingredient lacking in the human flesh to “give it the desired hard, youthful appearance, Any woman can make herself just as falr and lov her heart desires if b o remedies ac: cording to t directions, They are absos lutely guaranteed to be ail that is claimed for them. Druggists sell them everywhere, ally and Heal LIST: " Known Yule's La Freckin and Freokles. In fiom Mme. Yale's wonderful L Freckla o be the only sure cure for freckles 8 days to one week after its first application freckle will dlsn rand the complexion become as clear as crystal. Price, $1 per bottle, Yale's Complexion Bleich. Guaranteed to remove sallowness, moth patches and all skin blemishes, Gives a_natural coms lexion of marvelous beauty. Price, $1 per ottle; 35 for 8 bottles, over other of Beauty Yale's Elixir of Boauty, Caltivates natural rosy c skin tonic, Price, $1 per bott Yale's Blood Toule. Purifies the blood, acta on the llver, and builds up the whole syste bottle; 6 for §. a wonderful Kidneys Price §1 per Yale's Eyelush n Makes the lashe brows luxuriant end shapel beautifies the eyes. Price, $1 and long, the eye strengthens and Valo's Hand W Makes the hands soft, lily white and beautiful, Price, $1 Wanlw's sl Mme, Yale' and destroy itener, ody for remaving uperliuous. hair, does not hut 1; removei the growth of takes but fiv nutes to us: irritate or even make th Full line carried by Kuhn & Co., 15th an and Howard, Kiosler Drug Co., 16vh and Farn, by il Nebraska druggists. pany, Omaha. LINCOLN D! Harley's Drug Store, corner O and 11 Druggists evc happen to hav extra charge. Mail orders sent to Mme. tention. All correspondence answer MME. M Kin, and used to molsten a mixture of skinned chestnuts and chopped celery, cooking over & slow fire until both chestnuts and celery orush under the least pressure. A littlo espagnol sauce poured over adds to the flavor and the whole Is poured over the wings when ready. CLAIRE CLAXTON. THE SMART SKIRT, The New Flaring Jupe Worn by Fashiona- ble We NEW YORK, Nov Paquin s the very latest flare skirts, and though it owes its title to the Parisian house of that name, here is the true story of its origin. At a shop lately opened the wide jupe is seen in its most ideal perfection. Indeed, a whole room in this splendid shop s glven up to the showing off of skirts alone; and as the gorgeous parade passes by, an extra dashing cut, and ultra severe finish at once distinguished those of Paquin make. Desides this cut, which after all is the thing, the only additional ornamentation al- lowed a Paquin skirt, is a rich silk lining tinted like a pallid cloud, or as gay as the gayest flower. It may be fashioned of velvet molre, crepe moire—which {s a new stufr with & mossy bengaline sort of surface—silk or crepon, but it never owns the least trim- ming; but if of cloth, the scams are strap- ped, or the three front gores perforated to show a ficwer tinted lining. It begins with the lining, which is in eight gores, and measures—for tall well-made figures—seven yards and a half around Eighteen yards ‘of silk are required for this lining, which is made up separately from the outside, and fitted as carefully over the hips as if it were a bodice. It is criolined or bair clothed, only to the knee in front, wher it is finished with a fil 4" acier, a flat half. inch wire braid, so flexible It bends in any way with the least movement. This wire holds it out at the hem, no trace of which Is ever seen on the outside of the skirt. All this completed the skirt proper, elther eighteen yards of silk or five yards of fifty- four-inch cloth, is likewise made throughout and carefully plastered over the lining, to which only the narrow turn-over hem is caught. In some cases two or three small pleats are arranged at the back, but In others the fullness Is formed cntirely by the flare of the gores, Which go up narrow and flat at the waiet. ‘The waist finishing is the usual cord and bias facing, One of the most enchanting of the skirts made after this model was a black crepon a grandes vezues. The heavy silk lining, with its narrow pinked foot ruffle, was of daffodil yellow. A skirt of pompadour bre cade, a rich white silk strewn with hu bouquets, have a lining of plain white gros grain, and a full flouncing balaieuse of misty French lace. Two of cloth, respectively dark blue and a fawn skirt, had the bloom of a pink peach, owned foundations that it scemed almost a crime to hide. That of the fawn was maize satin, that sown with violet orchids, and the two front and side seams of the skirt itself were strapped in the width of eight inches and ornamented with nine rows of stitching. The blue cloth was boldly dipped in open work, in narrow front and side panels, and fell loosely over in second skirt of bright cherry silk. The eternal fil d' acler held this smartly out at the bottom, and it was besides strengthened with an outside decora. tion of black satin ribbon bheaded with a flat half-inch gilt braid, FOR THE ULTRA FASHIONABLE. Oxtremes of fashions are concoeted simply for foreign markets—to catch the gullible American dollar principally—and though Parisians may be wearing the same thing, they have the good sense not to over do it. The cloth skirt that flits lightly down the boulevard or trips in peace up the Rue de Iu Palx, measures no more than five yards at the bottom. It made of silk it may cover a circle of five yards and a balf, and it is hair clothed instead of crinolined to make it lighter still, and there is never so much as an inside foot ruffle, When made in this way, a cloth skirt of medium length will require four yards of 1.—(Special.)—The model for wide oyster inside the shell; formerly oyster openers threw the Mttle red objects into boxes to be carted away as refuse, The fifty-four-inch material, and from ten to twelve yards of silk lining. Ot course there will be huge pi s of | again, At wholesale by E. F ywhere sell Mme. M, hom in stock whon called for, every trace in one application. Price’ $5. OMAHA DRUGGISTS. d Douglas streets, Merchant & Vickers, 16t am, W. J. Hughes, 24th and Farnam. An Bruce & Co, and Riwhardson Drug Come¢ RUGGISTS. th strects, carry a full line, COUNCIIL BLUFFS DRUGGISTS. George S. Davis, and all druggists throughout Towa. Yale’s Remedies. If droggists do nof thoy will order for you without . Yale's headquarters receive prompt at- ed personally. . YALR, America's Createst Complexion and Health Specialist, YALE TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, 146 State Street, Chicago Giirls both left over in the cutting, much of which must be done on the bias, but these can always be utilized in helping out the bodice. Besides the Paquin model, there are Worth skirts, Felix skirts and Doucet skirts. A Worth skirt of brown cloth was finished at the bottom In huge scollops, that lay against black and white check velvet, and were out- lined with brown silk and edged with mink buttons. A Felix symphony in brown and black silk, half its full back curiously puffed into a | little tournure gnd flattened at the sides in bows and steel buttons. And last, and most bewitching of all, was a Doucet evening skirt of opal gray moire with green and pink reflections, and with a foot brimming of Russian sable, headed by a long scarf of white lace, looped up in gar- lands. Zach confection s marked by some little | trick or cut of trimming distinctive of its makes. But the Paquin, the idot of the hour, is the only skirt that is always severely and re- liglously plain. NINA FITC Sleeves are in various shapes, but the full short puft s the most popular. Rose pink, pearly gray and opalescent shades are among the most fashionable col- ors, Pure golden yellow fs a highly favored | color In the brocades imported for recep- | tions and grand dinners. | White silk cozies are very dainty and are seen on the § o'clock tea table in fashionable | drawing rooms this autumn. Fur is this year used very much as vel- vet to form collarettes, pointed trim- mings, shoulder capes, immense revers and mutton leg sleeves. Pink spotted chiffon makes a lovely and when chiffon or gauze is used for the skirt it is gathered full at the waist and | hangs loose from the silk skirt underneath Fancy plaid velvet is one of the fabrics empioyed in combination costume The yoke, sleeves, deep cuffs, skirt panels and trimmings and entire corsages are made of it. A novelty in a ladies' watch is a ball of pearls which gives no hint as to the fact that there It is useful as well as ornamental, but at the bottom of the ball the tiny face is found. Imported fackets of crochet, embroidery or passementerie are shown for wear over fancy silk waists. They are sleeveless, are pointed and sloped back below the walst, and have turned over collars. Some very pretty laced boots with high arched insteps are made ready for late autumn and winter wear. These are grace- ful in outline, with a moderately high heel and with room enough at the toes for the wearer to walk normally. Box coats of only medium length are shown at the best importing houses, formed of black or green velvet, with pointed collarette and large sleeves made of ermine fur; or, | the ermine forms the coat and the velvet ihe sleeves and collaret The very general fashion which prescribe the wearlog of a skirt and corsage of differ- ent fabrics is more marked than ever, and is now quite as popular for evening wear as it has been for frocks worn in the daytime. A special faney of fashion at present is to give the bodlees a bouffant effect in front. For slender walsts the fullness s made to droop just & little below the upper edge of the belt, and for those who are overwplump | it should fall below the walst line, giving the effect of slenderness. Large roses of satin antique are used to outline the round necks of decollete cor-| sages, Women with comely necks and shoul- ders are quick to grasp the artlstic possibili- ties of this mode. The darker furs are very eftectively employsd in the same fashion. Ono of the elements of present (ashion ap: own, | on pears to be a continual experiment in odd or striking combinations, whether of two or three different materials, (he one often in sharp contrast, yet harmonizing with the other two. A very graceful evening gown is made of yel- low satin covered with black silk net, trimmed with guipure appilque, which forms stripes up and down the skirt. The bodice has @ garniture of fet, which also falls in polnts the yellow velvet sleeves. A band, of shaded yellow roses, encireles the throat and trims the bottom of the skirt, Fominine Notes. The princess of Wales rides a tricycle, A King's Daughters circle in San Franclsco is composed of eight Chinese women, two Japanese, two Syrians and two Americans, Miss Annie Macdonnell, whose work on Thomas Hardy is the first volume in the Coatemporary Authors, is the assistant editor of the Bookman. The hygienfc congress at Buda-Pesth brought out the fact that there are four times as many men who stammer as there are women so affiicted. The countess of Flanders fs very fond of dogs, and is always accompanied by half a dozen, among which Is a poodle that is re- markably clever. The sporting reporter of the San Francisce Call is a woman. She attends all the races and owns a stable of fine horses herself, Her name is Mrs. Adeline Knapp. The only known marble statue of the hu- man figure with eyelashes is the sleeping Ariadne of the Vafican gallery, which was found in the sixteenth century, By the etiquette of the Russian court a princess entering it by marriage brings noth- ing In the way of wardrobe except the clothes she wears. The magnificent trousseau belng prepared in Parls is at the expense of the czar. Miss Comstock of Green Castle, probably the youngest bank officer in the United States, She entered the bank at Green City in March, 1889, as assistant cash- fer and bookkeeper and proved so efMclent that when the owners of the bank organized another at Green Castle, in Seplember, 1892, they made Miss Comstock president of the old bank and cashier of the new. The regulations of the British postoffice require that every unsound tooth shall be taken out of the mouth of all employes. An unfortunate girl who recently was examined for promotion had fourteen teeth taken out at one sitting by order of the offictal dentist, who explained that “‘we can't have girls laid up with toothache.” One wonders fnvolun- tarily whether the corporation supplied the vacancles with false teeth Sorosis, & woman's club of San Francisco, 1s only a little over a year old, but it now takes its place as one of the leading womer organizations of that city. Members ean only be admitted annually, and at the recent elec- tion of officers and business meeting there was 50 long a list of names to be consldered that many had to be rejected because of the numerical limit of the club. Unles thi shall be Increased a hopeless walting list has been created. At a recent sallor's wedding in London, where the groom and the best man wera ad- mirals, the bride was attended by a boat' crow of pretty bridesmalds, dressed in charm- ing nautical costumes. These were of white cloth, with coat bodices faced with wmolre silk and trimmed with naval gold lace, and having heavy gold bullion epaulets, Long molre sashes, edged with the unln jack colors, and while navy regulation caps, with muldllllll flag in front, completed the Mo., s