Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 14, 1894, Page 18

o s L e e THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14 1894 Women always show by thelr actions that | February last, out of 448 children who re. they enjoy going to church; men are less | demonstrative, When a woman becomes flirried ehe feols for a fan; when a man b comes flurried he feels for a cigar. Women Jump at conclusions and generally hit; men Teason things out logically and generally miss the truth. Some women can’t pass a mhlinery shop without looking in; some men can’t pass a public house without going | in. A woman never secs a baby without wanting to run to it; a man never sees a | baby without wanting to run away from it. | ‘Women love admiration, approbation, self- tmmolation on the part of others; are often weak, vain and frivolous. Ditto men. woman always carries her purse In her hand, so that other women will see it; a man carries his in his inside pocket, so that his wite won't see it. A woman can sit in a theater for three hours without getting all oramped up, catching the toothache, or be coming faint for want of fresh alr; a man ean’t. A woman, from her sex and char- | one establishment A | bust | celved the serum injections, 109 died. The Verus de Medicl s 5 feet § Inches in height, 26 inc about the waist, about the bust and 44 about the hips. 1 employed as “cloak models’” by most of the dry goods establishments are about of the e helght ‘model”’ hes 6 feet and 5 inches in are the following: Walst to 24 inches; bust, 34 to 35; hip, 45 to base of skull to waist, 16; biceps, 11% to height in 2214 12, A “prominent physician recently gave the following as the current measurement for a I formed, well developed and healthy oman of 6 feet § inchos: Walst, 24 inches; 83% to 3414; biceps, 12 to 18; wrist, big to 6%; hips, 44 to 45; calf, 13 to 15, and ankle, 7 to 7%. The doctor's “model woman has similar hips and a smaller bust and about the same walst as a “cloak model.” There 18 every prospect very largely used during this season, both on dresses and on coffs. The plain skirts will be trimmed with either one very wide that braid will be acter, has a clalm to many things besides her | braid or three, or, perhaps, five narrower, shelter, food and clothing. She Is not less a | woman for being wedded; and the man who | Is fit to be trusted with a good wife recol- | lects all which this implies, selt at all times considerate and deferential. male scribe fell burden of describing the first wedding in Coolgardie, Western Aust:zalia. With a noble desire to rise to the importance of the occa- s'on, but with a limitel and techn!cal vocabu- lary, he plunged in. The bride, he tells us, wore “a creamy, quartz-colored silk, with orange blossom outcrops.” Another lady was dressed In a “reddish substance, with ironstone colored leaders running around the main body, and looking so nice that many a male animal wished for a miner's | right, so that he could apply for a perpetual lease. Miss B. appearcd in a charming out- fit, the main body being blue, trimmed all down the foot wall side with laminated leaders of dark slate color, The dancers showed their appreciation by immediately prospocting round. Miss M. set envious | teeth on edge as she zed round in a slate colored robe, the principal outerops being decorated with diorite colored stringers and other surface indications of a highly pleasing nature. More than one poor dryblower, as ha panted round the room with a less accomplished partner, envied those who for the time being owned so good a claim. Miss K. wore a kaolin colored silk, while Miss S. was from peg to p>g arrayed in slate colored material, relieved at the throat by a white quartzite sort of band Miss D., in a rich limestone colored creation, relieved at the datum points mear tho neck and shoulders, looked as pretty a picture as Pprospector or painter might wish to see.” After the funeral of the comte de Parls the splendid floral emblems, of which there were over sixty, were, by the order of his widow, photographed "and then taken to Weybridge, where they were put in the mausoleum. The beautiful wreath sent by the officcrs In the American army measured twenty-five feet in circumference and con- tained more than 3,000 artificial roses. ‘What to do with the great quantity of flowers and emblems that still accompany many funerals, notwithstanding the fre quency of the *’kindly omit flowers™ noti 3 18 often a question to the family of the de ceased. Recently a man prominent in a public way dled and the house was almost besieged on the day of the funeral by mes- gers carrying their burdens of flowers When the cortege wended its way to the cometery several carrlages were piled high with the pieces, after the casket had been literally covered with loose flowers. ‘were placed on and about the grave and thre left, which is the usual course. A better use would seem to be to break apart the splendid masses of bloom and to scalter them among the sick and the poor. In the case referred to such a course would have been peculiarly appropriate, as the dead man was one who never turned a deaf ear to the suffering and whose charities can never half be told. chivalrous, sweet-spoken, Upon an unhappy the Probably the two most interesting persons fu Washingtoh today are Mrs. Peary, wife of Lieutenant Peary, the famous arctic ex- Dlnr&-nm her little daughter, Marie Ahmig- ito Peary. Young Miss Peary s born to a greatness she can never escape. Like Virgina Dare she will go down to posterity sung of many tongues, her primary claim to distinction being that she Is the first of her kind to b &ln existence among the glaciers and ice caps of northern Greenland. Hesides, this, however, little Ahmigito has more than even a firsi baby's list of per- fections. Se Is very pretty, with flaxen hair and big biue eyes; she is wonderfully vigor- ous and well; she is gay and bonny, ready to laugh with any one, and, with a pluck that could hardly be absent from the child of Al | [ in and shows him- | vorite. | and | whieh | for | are apt to rattle against | | accomplishments are less | quite as worthy of notice | has an abundance of money such resolute and plucky parents, she has passed the trying first year of life with an egse and success that other babies should be urged to emulate. The present tendency In philanthropic movements seems to be toward a non-elab- orate system of management. it that the untutored cash girl of the city stores can grasp its scope and machinery. The Needlework guild started In England Wwith Lady Wolverton at its head, and di Dlicated in “this country with Mrs, J. W. Stewart as president, Is a marvel of great- mess and simplieity. A woman who has spent her life In charitable work other day: “I am copvinced that the great- e8t benefit to the needy can be rough some system of regular individual ving to individual need, If every well-to- o Who needed assistance and agree to help it over the hard places, bureas and offices could be shut up.” Some- 1 ng of this system has been suggested in land, where a general committes shall ive the mames of the charitably dis- %ed to pass oh to heads of districts where t exists, thus bringing the two parties to transaction in actual contact, A woman writing from Liverpool where ’n assisted “at the street festivities only the visit here of the duke and duchess r York,” ‘says of the latter: “Of course was interested to see the probable future dusen of Eoglnd, and I was fortunate onough to be very near the carriage as she came to it at the railway station. The daughter of some dignitary, a little girl dressed in a white frock and a big white pleturs but most tastelessly wearing tan and stockings, presented the «duchess with a bouquet of Tovely orchids and Mlise as she left the train, and It was wear- ing the smile of pleased acceptance of this Qourtesy that I saw her. Nothing, however, Can make the duchoss of York pretty. She fl a fiod Kind face, but heavy, and most llusloningly ~unaristocratic. = At her mothef's age she will be the commonplace hol.l:: matron that the duchess of Teck in, undoubtedly equally devold of figure and presence. What a pity royal women are 80 disappolating! It would be a real ploasure 1o see an English one who looked as if born 0 the purple. I've had some of the young Wwomen of the aristocracy pointed out to me, and moet of them are beautiful high-bred ..-nu*:m , but a step higher in English #ociety shatters all traditions of blue blood, Dr. Roux of the Pastour Institute claims to bave found a cure for croup, that terror of mmnrl'nu‘- It consists In the subeu- nfection ¢ sorui: taken from the blood of & hors. that has heen yreviously Yaccinated with the cultivated wicrobes of m-p The injection should be made once all, Boon after it is made the tempera- fure, falls, the growth of the false mem- Brane 1s arrested, In twenty-four hours they B 10 poel from the inside of the throai, and in thirty-six hours the larynx s free t &} the Clildren's hospital on February h Ho 0ok there with him a large supply the serum and innoculated every child and other (reatment was ecoatinued . Roux asks us to remember that in the 1860, 1891, 1892 and 1898, out gf m treated for croup at the the bacilii. Dr. Roux hegan his treat- Be found suffering from croup. The ordinary Me oxperimented, 3,029 dted. The circle of | plishment, Daughters, an organization of really [ tography, Stupendous size, has 50 little red tape about | are worthy of a professional, secured | tume, family would take some other family | Jewelry, and her face I think the charitable | weby'" that it allowed | | | and for this purpose military braid will be very much in request. There are several new makes of this, and one which Is made Imitation of lattice work is rather a fa- Sometimes the braid will be carried up to the waist on either side of the front, the intervening space filled in with a double row of enormous buttons, a trimming which generally comes in with brald. It is a senseless kind of ornamentation, and one occasionally is extremely nofsy, as, instance, in church, when the buttons the front of the pew. A “Fast day” soup that s delicious any day is made from the tops of a bunch of celery. Add two quarts of water, a table- spoonful of butter, an onion, and four pot toes, sliced. Boil for two hours, and just before pouring into the tureen over toasted bread cut into dice or ecroutons, thicken slightly with flour wet In cold water. A lively young Danish woman, Miss Sophle Christensen, is anxlous to get work in Chi- coga_as a carpenter and joiner. In the city of Copenhagen she learned the trade, to which she was bound as an apprentice. When her apprenticeship was completed, a short time ago, she was admitted to full member- ship In the union. She displayed great apti- tude and skill as a worker at the trade, and she Is ready to display specimens of her handicraft. ~ Among other things, she has made & ‘“‘self-closing bookcase” which is serviceable, artistic and beautiful, and which is admired by everybody who sees it. THEIR COMPLIMENTS, Highly Polished Gifts and Graces that Make the New York Women Attractive. NEW YORK, Oct. 12.—Descriptions of the dresses, jewels, lace, carriages and recep- tions of the grand dames who are members of the ‘400, abound upon all sides. Their exploited, although In fact there is no harder worked woman in the world than the society leader, who and s also sup- posed to have an equal amount of leisure, She has a “lesson” of some kind every day, it Is a German one morning, French another, and so on through six days out of soven. If she has not written at least one book, it is not from lack of desire to do so. Mrs. Pierre Lorillard, for instance, has published a book or two and they are gen. erally regarded as noteworthy as her gowns which is saying a good deal. Miss Saliie Hewitt, daughter of ex-Mayor Hewitt, is also literary in her tastes and hus written sev eral magazine articles. She also spends one or two hours daily at the piano or prac- ticing on the violin; her sister, Eleanor, is cqually as studious,” although perhaps more devoted to outdoor’ sports; she is a cleyer whip and ean drive a four-in-hand. Mrs. Wiibur A. Bloodgood is a woman of varied accomplishments; she is often seen on the amateur stage, and is a good actress, Then she sings as well as she acts, fences as Well as she siogs, drives and dances and in her drawing room hang two portraits, one of herself and one of her little daughter, painted by her own hand. Mrs. Lioyd 8. Bruce, daughier of Mr. Ed- ward Cooper, and wife of the editor and proprietor of the North American Review, has really wonderful talent as an artist, and had “Mrs. Bryce not been a ‘‘society girl" she would probably have achieved dis. tinction as & portrait painter and cari- caturist, Mrs. Gabrielle Greeley Clendenin derfully clever with both pen and and some of her etchings on wood, done with an ordinary pen, are really works of art; had she, too, been obliged to turn her talent to use she would have achieved re- nown and been reckoned among the artists of the day. Mrs. John di Zerega, mother of the late Lady Franklin, is one of the literary lights in New York society; her first ook, a child’s story, was made up of tales first originated for her own children's amusement; at the suggestion of a friend she wrote out the stories and had them published. She has recently translated some fairy tales from the French, Mrs. Richard is won- pencil, P. Lounsbery's pet accom- one among a number, is pho- and some of the pictures she makes %0 clever are they In pose, light and shading and finish- ing. Portraiture is especially her hobby, and not only has Mrs. Lounsbery photographed each member of her family. but she has also accomplished the unique feat of photo. graphing herself, with slight assistance from a friend, who removed and replaced the cov- sald the | ering from the camara. For this picture Mys, Lounsbery were the picturesque Turkish cos- In which she appeared at Mme. Barios de Roda's costume ball about two or three Yyears ago. She wore some genuine Turkish was veiled a la Turk— however, 5o filmy and ‘‘cob- the features to be with a vell, plainly seon, Mrs. John Jacob Astor has plishments, but the ones which afford her the keenest enjoyment are athletic ones—. tennis, playing for instance, at which she 18 an ‘expert, sailing cathoats, at which she has recently won distinctton’ and applanse. and oyo although she has not made any ‘‘century” runs, as yet, she is a r shilltul bioyoler. L iss Fannle Tailer, a tall, stately girl, is distingulshed among her friends as a Kl‘)rlgm and shining 1ight at the tennis courts, Mrs. George Andrews, wife of Judge An. drews, 18 one of the best linguists in New York, and every morning she devotos twy hours, and often more, to her favorite studies In this line. She always has a German maid and a French one, and converses with them in thelr own tongue. Law s a strong point with Mrs. Theodore Sutro, and she could give points to @ Philg. delphia attorney. Sho studied it quite re. cantly at the University of New York Law school, and ‘when she graduated had the distinguished honor of belng the valedie. torfan of the class. many accom- daughter, as well as Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish is also musical, and plays remarkably woll Miss Rockefeller, daughter of Mr. John D, Rockefeller, devotes her time to violin play- ing; she possesses a valuable Stradivarius and also an Amati violin, Miss Kirkland is play in “Shenandoab” at the Academy of Music for the season. 'The rooms here are spacious and Mr. Frohman: has put aside a pretty suite for' her. Miss Kirkland looked into the mode of entertaining while abroad this year and came baek determined to adopt it. The large Qlt“u‘ room in which she celves her friends is hung after fashion in delicately colored woodwork is blue. The barred with filagreed iron and hung in golden brown plush. - Rugs..are thrown about the floor, great divans covered with golden velvet are piled high with silk and Persian cushions. A low Freach dresser is placed under two great side lights,-on whieh lle a multitude of silver tollet articlgs writing desk is usu- ally open with Miss Kfiklmd‘- monogrammed per lying ready aed everywhere on mati- nee days are flowers. Oue only goes hy . invitation and usually pleasant people are brought together by the tact of the ‘hostess. Sometimes a clever musiclad 45 asked 4@ ju & most informal € the leading part re- the English chintz, windows are cross- The measurements required of The “ way he spends his tima at the plano, while the mald serves tea in the exquisite cups that | were sont o Mies Kirkiand by friends when her recent engagement to Mr. Howard Gould was announced. | Miss Kirkland gowns at th was strikingly robe was of gathered collar of yellow batiste edged with valenclennes. The large sleeves were gath- | ered at the elbow with narrow blue satin rib- bons. As sho walked the robe showed the petticoat of the same silk with vari-colored pinked" ruffles, .each lace covered. Louis XV. slippers of yellow suede with filagreed silver buckles completed the costume, SMALT wears very eptions, smart One 1 ful and Frenchy yello with se T grac mandarin noticed The | |1 ats and Bonnets Designod for the Oponing Senson. NEW YORK, Oct. 12.—Big hats have come to town. They are, says Mme. Mode, with her foot well down, for carriage, church, promenade—any soclal functions—alone; so let the woman break this solemn law who dares. Among the most unique and becoming of the large shapes yet shown was one that locked as it it might just have stepped | down from a Reynolds portrait. In fact, | picture effects, it is to be clearly seen, are | the order of the day, and many end varled are the suggestions they give The brim of this hat, which was wide and almost without a curve, was a skeleton structure of wire and black net, with a small roll of bright green as a border edge | The crown, high and stiff, and looking | more like a French bonbon box than any- thing else, was mado entirely of the velvot, The same color in a rich ribbon velvet re- peated itself in a wide Alsatian bow at the left front, and fastening behind this was a high tuff of loosely waved black ostrich feathers. Another delightfully ploturesque fashioned nfter this model, bad its small, steep, powder box crown made of blush- apple velvet, which, with its delicate streaks of yellow and crimson, closely imitates that fruit. A charming addition in the way of a pair of wide, black crepe de chine strings has been ndded to this, and instead of the net a full moon of jetted lace, cunningly wired, formed the brim. The sole outside trimming, a bunch of blaok feathers as large almost as a small bush, was fastened immo. diately in front, with a square fet buckle. But if those 'two hats have a reason for being, by virtue alone of their becoming Qualities,” how to account for the next fan- talsio! "It was as curlons and ugly as some strange weird flower, ono of the un canny mushrooms that sometimes come to us from Paris, and the mere sight of it ro- calls a certain inconsistency for which the French are famed. Fathers and mothers of all fashions. at least the best and the worst of them, they nevertheless resent openl, and with no mincing manners, any nesw whim of La Mode that seems merely bl zarre. The first freak, flower bonnet house | huge | master In the art of chiromaney, often began his readings with a hand shake. It is not, however, mo sot down In his book on the subject, or in any other work I have ever seen. The mere touch of the hand gives you a certain intimate acquaintance with ft that all tho lines and bumps and even the gen- | eral form ot the palm and fingers can not | tell one. For example, the pallid, slender, | thin-skinned, loosely-kait, moist, ool hand | ot the woman who lives on her nerves in- dicates lack of health and lack of vitality. | Such a hand belongs to a sentimental, mor- bid temperament, and is an invaluable key to the reading of the lines. It is easy also | to detect from the feeling of the fingers the uses to which they are put. The violinist | with his callqused finger-tips, the elastic spread of the’ firigers and the development | of the muscles, across the hand of the prac- tised planist, lejl the tale of such occu tions at once. 1' the left hand is larger than the right, It is @ strong pregumption in itself that the owner is lefthanded, In this case ask to| shake both hajids, You can at once detect | the lefthanded ‘man by this means and that | in spite of the fagt that he is in the habit | of giving the right 'hand for the purpose. Tho | stronger muscylar development and work-a- | day feel of the Jéft hand leaves you in no doubt. A firm, strong,' warm clasp, bespeaking health and hedrtifiess, tells you of the un- suspicious, generoys normal man or woman, and such a nature is free from certain petty faults. BEven if you should see these very traits written in the palm lines realizo that they are balanced or overbalanced by virtue of what! the hand-shake implies, and you interpret the opposing lines and marks as inherited qualities. For, to the eye of the keen observer, each hand s a record, not only of itself, but of its forbears. A careful examination of the general form, the consistency of the flesh and skin, gives you an idea of the admixture of nationality in a person. If there has been Latin blood, by which T mean French, Italian, Spanish, any of the southern races, with Anglo-Saxon, it ‘betrays itself in a certain difference in texture, hard to explain, but easy of detec- tion to one who knows it. There is a_silk- iness of the skin, and the flesh lies under it like the inside of a ripe peach. It Is a more sensuons hand to hoid, or to look at. Of such a type is the soft but firm woman's hand that slides slowly out of your clasp, like a white kitten; a hand suggestive of Romeo's words: “For palm to palm i3 holy palmer's kiss." The Turk, the Egyptian, the Greek have theso qualities to a still more marked de- gree, and a deeper shade of color that helps the novice to recognize the trace of such blood more easily. 1t is extraordinary how one drop of fareign biood inherited from an antagonistic race will endure and show it- self after generations of pure breeding. As an example of this, let me tell you the story of an artist, a very well known American artist, whose hand I read last winter, be- fore I knew his name, “You have Oriental blood southern at least,” I said quick glance, and asked: “How do you kiiow that?" I smiled. "I was not at the moment un- raveling the mysteries of the art, as I am now doing! “I have in your veins; He gave me a been American born and bred| ever since the battle of Bunker Hill,” he said, “on both sides, but my ancestor, who fought there—a mere boy—had a Spanish- went down followed by the hoots of the | multitude, and even stones. Foreign fash- | ions are stared at and audibly commented on by the passers by, and one of our the streets of own | ) | time Moorish name, inherited from a Spanish- Moorish father. He, the father, came over to New Orleans as a refugee, about the hen poor Manon Lescant made her tragic journey to the same place. This an- countrywoman, Miss Viola Roseboro, the clever magazine writer, tells somewhere that she was once so amazed in Paris by re- marks on her headgear—which happened to be a dashing little Scotch traveling cap— that she put it under her arm and walked home bareheaded and respected. And now, with the memory of all this in- solence, this hat! Picture a monster disc, straight and flat as the ogre's plate in the fairy tale, of deep, 2old colored felt. Put in front on this vast, untrimmed ex- panse a single low bow of black velvet, whose wide, stift ends touoh the edge of the brim at each side. Under this brim, as it Erowing out of the temples, fasten two large balls of silver and Rhine stones; next, from the two crown sides underncath, hang two black ostrich feathers that curl around the colfture atd droop to the shoulders, and lo, the latest French freak that offends the Amerlcan palate. In this large hat the temple ornaments were distinctly out of place, but for small hats and bonnets they form an effective and becoming garniture. ‘Indeed, the very latest fad in millinery is a broadening effect at the sides, and to emphasize this, not only balls and jeweled horns of every description are used, but also velvet choux and seal and sable heads. A tiny saucer bonnet of flame pink crepe ruffled like a peony has an entire brim of baby seal heads, with two larger ones ac- centing the gldes. Another, a minute tri- angle of scarlet felt braid, sugggesting the headdress of the east, was bewilderingly beautiful, it fitting close to the head like a skull cap, and from the center of the flat crown rose two shadowy Mercury wings of black gauze starred with jet. Looped .through the brim around the front and sides was a long scarf of thin white lace that fell In short headdress ends behind the ears, and projecting stralght in front, and neaf to- getlier, like two large beetle horns, was a pair of dull silver ornaments richly set with red stones, Ancther infinitessimal toque of turquoise blue velvet wrapped over wires had as its only trimming a cluster of tiny cut jet wipgs at each temple, All of these bonnets, the confidential mo- diste informs us, can be worn at a pinch at the theater, but since license in bonnets points toward a sneaking in of hats as well —and maybe big ones, alas!—one can only hope the pinch may never come. Besides, everything else considered, if all women only knew It, thec2 1s no hat or bonnet on earth 80 becoming as a well groomed bare head. Mme. Mode empties from her horn an in- concelvable varlety in color and shape, One marvels where she gets them all, and it they were designed for princesses, thay are such precious luxuries; but any one of them abounds in valuable ‘hints for the nimbfe fingers of a home milliner. Brims, even ‘of felt hats, are. not neces- sarily of the same color as the crown; thus a yellow crown may own a black brim, or else the crown may be entirely of velvet flowers and the rim of felt. A charming Felix Conlin, fashioned in this way, had a brim of wavy brown felt and a crown of Dlue velvet roses, while a smart little Eng- lish walking hat of pigeon gray felt and black wings had, curlously enough, a black silk brim. ~ Huge white lace bows ornament black hats, and in some cases low crowns are made to look high with bands of silk or satin ribbon, The best of possidle tints, however, for a becomine and useful walking hat could be taken from the one showing the two views in the group drawing. It was dosigned especially for a moon faced southern beauty, and was of bronze felt brald, mirror velvét of the same. shade, and black wings. NINA FITCH. SIDE LIGHTS ON PALMISTRY, Amuteur Palmist Tolls Some o0f the Secres of Her Wonderful Art. When I read & palm I always begin by shaking hands with my victim. This is my own idea, as far 1 know, though I have #econtly heard ‘that Desbarolles, ‘the past | ment, ‘make i, of cestor found his ‘way Bostonwards. There he met, married a Puritan malden, and their-boy, at tho age of thirteen, fought at tho great battle—the Yankee boy with the Moorish name.’ "In each generation ever since thero has been a Yankee boy, with that same name, ahd I am the last of {hem.” So here was the strange Oriental blood showing itself in {his man's hand after five generations, as it/showed itself in his name and fame, too, porhaps, for he sees and de- plets things as the descendants of a dweiler on the Mediterrancan shores do. The general critical survey of the hand following the Landshake will tell you, too, much about the tastes, the habits of the i dividual. The hand of the athlete Is known at once; the hand of the sportsman, of the surgeon are most easy of detection, and every trade sets its seal upon the hand that prac- tices it, only that it requires experlence and observation, for experience and observation in this art, as in every other, are worth all the learning of the schools. There is a cer- tain precision, firmness, yet delicacy of touch that makes it almost impossible for one to be deceived about a hand that is in the habit of working with the eye or mind I have never seen Buffalo Bill's hand, but I should not guess at it, if fifty hands were put hrough a hole in he wall at me and I knew that one of them were Mr. Cody's. His hand should be long, brown, firm, pre- hensile almost, with eyes in the finger tips Uke a blind man’s, and the clasp of it should be like iron behind velvet, The typical surgeon's hand—and it is very generally typical, 1 find—suggests the scalpel at once to the keen, practised eye; the turn of the wrist; its dextrous play and freedom, the development of muscie at the base of the thumb; the machine-like precision of move- ! hands, the most capa- ble, the most’ human, the further removed from the elementary type with Its short, thick fingers and Inflexible tard palm. Look at your friend’s hands and try, it after a little feeling and gazing, you are not able to tell which girl is the girl who em- broiders, who draws, which one is musical, which one goes In for tennis and paddling. The easiest hand to detect is the natural horsewoman’s hapd—a hand like Mrs Beach's—the teaclier of one of our fashion- able riding schools in New York, and who has ridden many a stubborn, frightened, ‘groen hunter” to safe victory In the an- nual horse show. Such a hand is light, light as eider down, but With whipcord nerves be- low. Tha sweetgst typa of woman's hand is the “‘born™ rurse's hand, thé palm and finge s t' a soothe with a touch, that brush away with thelr magic achies, and pains and griefs, Happy indeed the, woman who has the blessed gift of laying on of hands, AlL this is prologue and. preface to your study of palmistry proper, to the lines and fingers, the Joints tbe stars, the crosses. the Mount of Venus, Plain of Mars, all the pretty secrets of chiromancy, with thelr hid- den and significant meanings. M. M. M, Actross Miss Elslo de o Baub'e Shop.” 12.—Parisian fashions by a few of the promi- otresses in the modern drama.” Are an modes to be intro- duced by AmeMtid actresses? It looks so. The majority of them now order thelr toflets from the world's leading artists In dress, and American tastg has 8o impressed its ex- clusive elegance pén the designers of femi- Dinity's finest feathers, they plume them- seives upon the'béatity and originality of the creations they make for American women. One of the mbst elegantly dressed women on the Americavistag: today Is Miss Elsie de Wolfe, New YORK's soctety nctress, and one of the very few ‘members of the Four Hun- dred who have adfed the grace of their gentle birth and breeding to the stage, and keep up their ‘a@ifation with the Brahmin set. A rio of tollets’that Miss de Wolfe wears nent French in “The Bauble Shop' keeps her audience In & murmur of admiration. They are e pecially wuccessful apart from thelr in- trinsio style and beauty, because they sug- gest the refinement of a lady of fashion and family fn her own drawing room, and noth- Ing of the over accentuation of fashion that crowds a tollet over the line separating good taste from bad, Tmmensely chic and extremely good form 19 a morning ealling toilet in light blue sicilienns silk. It is not of the new bluet (cornflower blue) that is destined to be hopelessly common, but a elear, pale sky A VISITING TOILET. blue. The skirt {s a marvel of fullness, yards and yards wide around the bottom, and yet not an extra inch of material round the walst save at the back. Cut a circle from tissue paper. Make a hole in the center, and fit it upon a doll. This will give you the effect 80 far as the pattern of the skirt goes. About the fopt of the skirt, which is so full it falls as it flares toward the bottom into overlapping and ever changing folds, there are flights of butter- fiies In black, little ones and large ones mounting nearly to the knees, and then falling back to one or two. These recherche decorations are not embroidered or ap pliqued on the silk, but are inserted In it. The silk under each butterfly, which is of lace, and of exquisite workmanship, Is cut away to show the white silk petticoat be- neath. The bodice is also circular in shape with more fullness over the bust and between the shoulders than at the neck. It is made whole in front and fastens down the left shoulder, ound the arm and under it to the sashes There are two of these. One is of lovely lilac purple velvet of tho shade of a pansy petal, und there is a crushed stock collar to match this ceinture, which is finished off at the left of the waist with some careless loops, and a cluster of velvet pansies, The second ceinture is of black velvet and this Is tied into a Jaunty upstanding bow at the back, and falls in two long narrow sash ends on the ekirt. There is a flight of butterflies about the shoulders, and one perches piquantly on the inner edge of each sleeve. 'The sleeves aro single balloonlike puffs to the elbows The half large hat has a straight brim of velvet and the crown s concealed with bouf- fant 1oops of blue ribbon and curling coq plumes. Paquin of Parls created a superb dinner doess worn by Miss de Wolfe which has a flaring ‘gored skirt, perfectly plain, of saimon pink satin. The under side of the satin is as yellow as gold, but although the yellow warp is not permitted to stamp its individuality very strongly upon the pink woof, neverthe- less the pink surface shimmers in every ray of light with a faint golden flush. The silk manufacturers this season verily have wrested the last color secret from gems and skies. The bodice is of white chiffon just covering the bust in a square line back and front. The shoulders are two crushed straps of apple green velvet. This velvet, which by artificial light is softened to look almost blue, forms the elbow sleeves that are large puffs, and the wrinkled ceinture. Old yellow lace forms deep cpaulettes over the sleeves. The opera wrap designed to wear with this gown 18 an exquisite creation of violet velvet shot with green and lined with ivory satin. The shape Is circular, reaching to the wrists in froft.and at the back and shortened con- siderably over the arms. The shape and an interlining make the wrap sit all round in very smart style. A beautiful old lace scarf In ivory tints is draped about the collar, forming a shert cape, and jabot falls down the fronts, where each corner is ornamented with a choux or rosette of velvet ribbon and long ends. A rosette of the velvet is set also on each edge of the collar to drape the lace. The entire lower portion of the cape is wrought by hand in yellow, repeating the pattern of the lace above Felix, who is the best fitter known to the fashionable world—Worth does not believe in fitting smoothly—made the dinner dress. He also created the carriage dress worn by Miss de Wolfe in another act. This is a beautiful model of the latest new wrinkle for having the skire and sleeves of one material and the bodice of another. Sil- very gray Siclllenne forms the skirt and the sleeves, which are huge leg o' mutton affair also the pointed girdle and cape collar. . The trimming is embroldery in silver done by hand on the silk, tiny spangles being intro- duced in the embroidery to heighten the effect. The bodice s of white chiffon and the dress is a viston of refined elegance. DRESS DESIGNERS, The Possiblity of a Good Business Opening for a Clever Artist. “It Is surprising,” said the head of a large firm for supplying ready made gowns whole- sale, “that there are so few women de- signers in New York. One sees women struggling to squeeze into already over- crowded occupations, but never stopping to think of something new. “Now, one with natural ability for artistic and practical dressmaking or designing could make a good living selling ideas to great houses. There are men who supply this need, but never & woman. “Does not each flrm secure a designer?” incuired. *“No," he replied. “The retall firms gen- erally’ buy from the wholesale, and they copy or adopt forelgn fashions. Some firms, of course, do employ women, and these can make anywhere from $35 to $76 a week, with a trip to Europe thrown in.” He went on to say that if a woman was clever and had some capital she could open an office and make a success. An abundant patronage could be secured of large whole- le firms, retall ones, modistes, etc. If her orders are, oply sufficient for her own time, she makes designs for all sorts and condi- tions of clothes, selling them for as much as an illustrator 1s pald single and double column drawings. If she cannot sketch well, let ler make each model of colored tissuc paper. There are a_hundred things to be done in this line. New York is a tremendous fashion mill, grinding all the grist that is thrown into it. A new collar or cuff, a shoulder arrangement, the manner of finish- Ing the bottom of a gown, a new way (o hook a bodice—these are all minor details that are eagerly caught up by the rapacious maws of the stores. This patronage could not be accomplished in a day or a year, but the business would pay as muoh in the be- I for winter, Small wonder that this is so. It is not @ “fussy” plant, nor one usually troubled by fInsects, so that the beginner stands nearly as good a chance to succeed Wwith It as does the expert. Its delicate fragrance is most delightful, while its abun- dant epikes of beautiful, pendant, snow-white bells are exquisite alike for window decora- tion, cutting or wearing. Last of all, as they | cost but 60 cents a dozen, and two bulbs are | sufficient to fill a four or five-inch pot, people of moderate means can afford to them freely. They can be kept dry until midwinter without injury, ®o one can plant them at three-week Intervals from September until January, and thus secure a constant succes slon of their lovely flower from December to April. Lately many amateur gardeners have adopted the pleasant custom of buying a dozen or 5o bulbs In September or October, designing them for Christmas presents tc verdloving and fnvalld friends. Few ex- pensive presents give as much pleasure and certainly none speak more plainly of loving care and forethought to minister to our triends’ 1ikings. Like all Holland bulbs, the Roman hyacinth needs to take a sojourn In the dark, after planting, in order to form good roots to sus- tain the flower spikes that otherwise would prematurely spring up and as quickly perish from lack of mourishment. They are not at all particular as to soil, but that a little sandy and open best suits them. Cover them lightly, so that the tip of their crowns just show, water well and place in a cool, dark cellar or closet until well rooted. Barly in Lhe season this may require six or seven weeks time, later it will take but half as long, as the roots develop faster. After bringing to the light they require absolute no speclal care, except to remove the spikes as they fade, when new ones will usually be sent up in their place. It is nothing unusual for a white Roman hyacinth to have from five to seven spikes of flowers, and to remain In flower from four to six weeks. Try a few potstul of them this winter, and my word for it, you will never be without them an- other season. Fashion Notes, There s still a great fancy for short jacket walsts, the style even extending to those made of seal and other furs, There is a large chanco for seed pearl col- 1ars In numerous strands connected by bars 50 as to set well about the neck. Black birds and wings, which are used in lorge numbers, are strewn with fine jot fragments that prove so enlivening. Doe kid and chamois skins are again used on expensive gowns for vests, cuffs, collars, ete., and also on imported French bonnets, Velled bodices 1s a term applied to silk bodices veiled with accordion-plaited chiffon. It is a particular fashion just now and very pretty. Baby astrakhan will be the favorite coat trimming for the season. It is both becoming and durable. It is used freely on dark brown and green cloths. Changeablo effects in satins, silks, molres, silk and wool mixtures and fancy velvets are still the correct fashion, notwithstanding their prolonged favoritism. On somo of the model walking skirts of covert or Venetian cloth is a band of Russian galloon woven in red, green (or black) and £old, with a very narrow line of fur each side of the gimp. The French felt turbans, toques and round hats now exhibited by fashionable importers are dyed in lovely shades of color, in mauve, dove-gray, fawn, old rose, pale and dark greens, magenta, etc. Very becoming opera cloaks are made of the fine cloths in light shades and lined with a white fur or thibet. Ermine, of course, Wil be the most luxurfous opera fur, a though it is not as becoming as the fluffier thibet. Notwithstanding the slow progres that the French coat (half fitting and with a seamless buck) made during its first ap- pearance, it has come to be more generally favored than the ultra-English covert coat. Pansy velvet sleeves are on dresses of fawn-colored and mignonette-green ol some of these elegant wool fabrios belng forated with silk underskirts or lin the shade of the velvet sleeves showi through the fancy cut-work. Tangerine, lemon topaze, maize, amber and bronze are among the new shades, A new autumn basque that Is gracotul and not at all masculine-looking has flat postiliot backs falling about five-cighths of a yard of the skirt, while the front is In open Eton shape, finished with a double-breasted vegt, The foollsh fashion of draping every plos ture, chalr, ple of statuary, table and shelf with some wondrous plece of fancy work s over with, and now one seldom sees drapery except on shelvos or at the windows and doors, For the street for the first cold days of the season are charming littio collets of seal, otter, or moired astrakhan fur, called the “Duchess of York pelerines.” They have & hgh collar and are lined with shot silk im gay color-blendings. Feminine Notos, New York women have organized in oppe- sition to Tammany, In Great Britain women vote for all elog tive officers except members of Parliament, Miss Elllen Terry confesses to a new ace complishment—the power of turning pale at will, Rosa Bonheur, although 70 years old, has tecently taken up photography with enthusie asm. The physiclan in charge of the Woman's hospital in Soo Chow, China, is Dr. Anne Walter, a Mississippl woman, Willlam Morris, the English poet, says any woman can learn mathematics, but it takes lots of skill to manage a house well, Mrs. Francis Hodgson Burnett s laconie- ally described in an articlo on women writers as “the mother of two sons and twenty-two novels,' The countries of the world where women already have some suffrage have an area of over 18,000,000 square miles and their popula- tion is over 350,000,000, Miss Margaret Tupper, a once famous Martin Tupper, died suddenly in London the other day of heart disease, She was an artist of some repute, and was 56 years old. Ladies' chalets aro to be a new feature fn London. They will provide at various points of the metropolis in little cottage buildings the advantages of a lady's waiting room in conjunction with a millinery shop. The grave of Eve, which tradition places in a cemetery outside of the walls of Jeddah, I8 visited annually by over 40,000 pilgrims. The tomb is 50 cubits long and 12 wide. Tho Arabs believe that Mother Eve was the tallest woman that ever lived, Tho mother of Abdul-Aziz, the new youth- ful sultan of Morocco, bids fair to have as much influence as the empress of China. She Is a woman of great talent and infinite tact and her son is said to cousult her be- fore taking any political step. About two years ago Mrs. Theodore A. Havemeyer had her portrait painted. She wore for the event a magnificent white and gold toilet, which sho had made for a grand ball. _ While not strictly a beautiful woman, Mrs. Havemeyer has rather a distinguished air, and looks quite the grande dame. Of the 165 women studying medicine in Paris only sixteen are natives of France. From Russia there are twice this number and five are from the United States. Ot the 164 women attending the school of belles- lettres 141 are French women and two are Americans. If the possession of almost an indefinite number of homes can make a woman happy, Mrs. Seward Webb should be that individual. Besides her Fifth avenue mansion, her hunt- ing box in the Adirondacks and her Shel- burne Farms castle, still another house, with all the magnificence of the other thres and more, s being built. As a memorial to the late Miss C. M. Tucker (“A. L. 0. E."), the Christian Litera- ture society of India has determined to raise a special fund of 500 to republish her elghty-seven works for Indian readers and to translate them into a much larger number of languages of India, with illustrations, sister of th The Queen of Beauty's Secret. WNE M. YALES Excelsior Complexion Remedies WERE AWARDED Worid's Fair Hedal and Diploma. Showing thetr superfority over all " g0 remedies. of Beauty other do- B Indoresd by YALE, who i woman 1 more_beautiful every affect her marvelou t lies in the use of her vonderful rem- des. They combine w their composition every Ingredlent lacking in the human flesh to red youthful appearance. Any ake herself just as fair and lovely heart desires it she will use these reme- dies according to their dircctions. Taey con- tain no injurious mgredient, absolutely guaran- teed to be all that Is claimed for them. MM Cul- sl continues to Age does not uty. Her se- Ko A GUIDE TO BEAUTY. 4 PRICE Pimples, Black Heads, and Skin Diseases cured with’ Mme. Yale's Speolal Lotion No. 1 and Speclal Ointment No. 2 guaranteed price, $1.00 each. biceisior Skin Food. Guaranteed to remove wrinkle trace of age. Price $1.50 and $.0. Lice:gior Complexion Bieach, Guaranteed to remove 3 paiches and Al skin | blomishes. Gives & complexion ' of marvelous beauty, 2.00 per bottle; 85,00 for 8 bottles. Exceislor Hair Tonic. Turns_gray hair back to its own natural color_without dye. The first and only rem- edy in_the history of chemlstry known to do this. Stops hair fallipg In from 24 hours 1o one tes a luxuriant growth. Price $1.00 per bottle; six for $6.00. Erceisior Bust Food. Guaranteed to develope @ beautiful bust and neck; gives firmness to the flesh creates a natural condition of plumpness. P'rice $1.60 and §3.00. (reql Sgol ! 3 le's wonderful remedy roying the growth of scperfl r takes but minutes to use: does not hurt irritate or even make the skin red; removes every trace in one application. Price $5.00. 10 Freckio and Frecsies. Mme. M. Yale's wondertul La Freckla Ix known to be the only cure for freckles. In from 3 days to one week after its first ap- plication every freckle will disappear and the complexion become as clear as crystal. Price 31.00 per bottle. S2LD BY Full line carried by Kuhn & Co., \MEI and and Howard, Kinsler Drug Co., 16th snd Farna 8. Davis, Council Bluffs, and by ail druggists. Kichardson Drug Company, Omaha. and every sallowness, moth inning and better in the énd than many n which women are now existing. 1 know a woman In New York now: whose flngers are nimble and taste exquisite, and thres large firms have offered her their pat- ronage if ghe will supply them. She assures me_that she feels confident of $75 & week from thege three should she have good talent at_hand. ¥ven If the woman cannot alone supply | orders ‘or suggestious, she can have a corps of fashion rtists, who may sell their work through her, she exacting a commission. The very 'large retail firms that make a speclalty of ready made gowns and bodices ago the best 'to work for; they are kaleido- scople in their. rapid changes Again, prominent modistes are willing, fre. quently, to pay for good suggestions as well as the large furriers and cloakmakers. Taking it all in all, to quote again the busi- ness man, “it should be a most profitable undertaking. T Best Winter Flower. The paisy fs no greater favorite for spring and summer than 18 the Roman byacinthe Al first class druggists well Mme. Yale's MME., M, TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, ¢ LIST p—o Eiceisior Aimoxd Biossom Gompiexion Cream Refines coarse pores, keeps the skin smooth and lovely. Price §1.00, Exceislor Hond Whilener Makes the hands soft, lily white and beautl tul.” Price §1.00. Hole and Warl Extracor Removes and destroys forever moles amd varts. Price §3.00, Eye-Losh md Eye-Brow Grower Makes the lashes grow thick and long, the eye-brows luxurfant and shapely, strengthe ens and benutifies the eyes; guaranteed pure. Price $1.00, el o Beauty Cultivates natural skin tonie. Price Hme. K. YOle's Exceisior Ferilizer Cures constipation. Price 31,60, Exceisior Blood Tonic Purifies the blood, acts on the liver, kidneys and bullds up the system. Price § bottle; six for $.00. Hruiteura. : Mme., M. Yale's wonderful cure for all kinda of female weakness. Prico $1.00 per bottlej six for §6.00, FLTCCELE, Douglas streets, Merchant & Vickees, 16th m, W. J. Hughes, 24th and Farnam, George Al wholesale by E. E. Bruce & Co, ama rosy cheeks. $1.00° per bottl Mall orders and corresponaence may be sent to Mme Yaule's headquarters, remedies. YALR,. 146 State Street, Chicago , 1. —_——————————— rYA EXACT SI7F sale by all First Class Dealors. THE MERCANTILE 1S THE FAYORITE T2{ CENT CIGpl ER FECT) Manufactured by tno F. R. RICE MERCANTILE CIGAR CO, Vactory No. 504, St Louls, Me.