Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, July 23, 1893, Page 11

THE | AL “SHE'S” GUSH ANDGOSSIP The Much Abnsed but Patient Husband Not so Horrtbly Out of Luck After All, GOLDEN ROD, ARBUTUS OR PANSY? Diplomats Talk of Teantles~The Much irpin & Wonder-Working Wiz- These arc the days and espe nights when the katydids war sweet tones of frost to come, and the ex- rienced and competent young man ves space work while the staff is away having the balance wheel adjusted and the movement regulated ready for an- other year's hard labor. One of the favorite wails of this aforesaid Y. M. is the harrowing and cruel story of the woman who flirts like a butterfly to the cool sea shore and leaves her other hall tosweat and groan in his particular chain gang in the heat and dust of the unhealthy ¢ the “‘eaitor” were only a woman énee he would nov worry himself into an carly grave over such an unfair division of labor, Suppose you take your children and about a dozen trunks and go off to live in a crowded hotel or miserable “cottage” with no con- veniences and fufl of rats, June bugs and infinite ugliness. The children get so badly “mixed” with the neighbors that they can only be separated in sections and one Is never certain whether they will be drowned or commit suicide in some other manner before night. At the resorts you fuss and fume, the pow- der will not stay on, the crimps will not stay in, and of all vile and uncomfortable things those same airy robes, which the unsophisticated young man thinks are sodivine, areabout the most unbearablo. About the time you get all together and are just about ready to expire with th herculean efforts made to keep pro- sentablo, in comes your rival looking as though she had nover been anything but cool and languid in her life. " Althougt yousee through the sham, the knowledge that some one clse does not makes your life & burden and you vow you will go home and stay there like a sensiblo woman shiould, where you can at least be comfortable and not be eter- nally nagged and ‘‘sized up.” How is it with the man all of this time, who might just as well have gone too but that he declined to be bored? The poor husband and father is at home where the house tlosed to the hot sun and is cool and inviting, or at least cool; the papers will be knee deep, of course, arid ends of cigars lying all ‘'ronnd to re- mind him that though the ruling power is absent, his consolation is left. He dines off the fat of the land, his busi- ness, about which we hear so much, i at a standstill. He puts in a few hours each day just to help keep alive, and then he goes off with the other poor martyrs and makes a night of it with the sure knowledgo thut he will not have to make any excuses in the morn- ing. Life is just as he likes it, no worry, no restraint and no fuss, every- thing his own way. In fact in this d vision as in most” others of this world the mao has the best of it and no one realizes this more fully than he, for if he had the least des! to go with bis wife in her annual outing he would go. ‘Who ever heard of a man not being able to afford anything whi affected his comfort? Buta woman can only survive death by being in fashion, no matter what she endures so long as other women have to stand it too. *'e T Women are all right, and cspodiall; those who have charge of the woman's department ‘at the World’s fair can hardly make a mistake, but when they discarded the dress making exhibit they certainly came very near doing what if & man had taken a’hund fn,’ would hayve looked liko o great blunder. Al the foreign exhibits include needle work of various kinds, and while;of course, a fow renowned dressmakers are men, it is not in America that the man dressmaker flourishes in all his gold and glory. In this country dressmaking is pre-cmin- ently a woman's job, and while it does not come in the sme class of work or “art” as painting, sculpture or writing books, still it is work that requires in- finite tact, taste and paticnc Women who are angels to every one else on earth are often unreasonable toun insufferable degree when dealing with a dressmaker, The dressmaking exhibit was excluded on the grounds that it was not *educa- tional.” The Chicago trade schools have begun suit for damages and the outcome will be watched with great interest by women in all parts of tho country. Tt is claimed that the exhibit is educational in the highest degree and properly be- lopgs in the departmentsdevoted to'work dne by women, and nearly every one, outside the committee, will” agroe with the trade schools and hopo for a fayora- ble deeision at the hands of the cour is the season when nasturtiums bloom, and sweet peas, the dainty, old- fashioned flowers thatour grandmothers loved and which were ‘revived” by “fashion” us very artistic and beautifui o fow years ago. But as flowers never change in their grace and loveliness, it matters not what fashion says, and if in this one instance the foolish old dane has shown wisdom adequate to her years and experience, we will humbly enjoy the bright checry blossoms which her decree makes move plentiful, and pray that the fashion will not change, Ko turtiums will grow anywhere and sur- vive any kind of harsh treatment, and the gay, frail blooms, with their spicy odog, will come in such abundance s to ropay a thousand times the time spent. Speaking of flowers reminds ono of the heroie efforts Miss Margaret B, Harvey of Philadelphia is putting forth to have trailing arbutus_recognized by vote of congress as our national fower, While it 15 impossible for any one to agree with Miss Harvey when she says that goiden rod is coarse, for under favorable condi- tions nothing even in the floral world could be more graceful or beautiful than this product of Ne- braska 1 raitfes; still, the arguments presented in favor of the arbutus arve all goad, sound ones. The flowers are blue and star shaped, it is liberty loving, never having survived transplant ing, and it grows in profusion in all of the thirteen original states. Miss Harvey has recently published o poem in favor of her hobby, which is a strong one and will bring the subject before many peo- ple in a new light, Tho pansy is really the only rival which golden rod and arbutus have, and the trouble is that the cnes who will decide the matter in cong oss are all men, and every wan in America admires pansie A men, small boys and all; and it will be no wonder if the Junsy wins the day by its rare beauty and its” popularity, us other things have been vietorious at the hands of men from the boginning of time, in spite of facts and justi The question i to be presented ut the o ng session of congross, if Miss Harvey, backed by the women of the country,can bring it to issue, when the much mooted question of an American floral emblem will be settled forever. . . The Tfairy tale of Cinderella is not mor» glittering than the romnnee of the insignificant and oft _ridiculed hairpin, The bard’s words: “Truth orushed 10 | earth will rise again," are once more verified in the vindication of the hair- pin, The hairpin is a real horo. Buried underncath mountains of abuse | it has commanded the light of justice, It has mounted the thr of useflul righteousness and <will hereafter reign in the glow of a modestly earned crown of universal utility Long reign the hairpin, queen of the home. “Give her a few h make home happy,” was said of a young woman who possesses - infinite Fesoutc It was a figure of speech | which doubtless appeal more to the feminine understanding than to the mind masculine, for the latter will never bo able to understand the 1m- mense number of uses and possibilities of this ever handy, always accessible fe- male rpins and sho will wi appendage, or convenience, or | whatever may be its proper designa- tion. As anall around, desirable trav- cling companion it has no equal; no Yankee notion can hold a candle to it. If your Tauchnitz is uncut out comes the | hairpin, and a better paper cutter can- not be invented. And—tell it not in Gath—but rather than trouble herse to tuke off her gloves the society girl will probably extracta pin from her p fumed tresses, will rub it daintily her cobweb of a handke and use it in lieu of a fork to eat berries in tha train, Asa shoe buttoner in case of necessity all the world knows ita merits. Used as a geo- metrical instrument it will draw a circle as well as the best of compasses. It can be a bodkin if need be. It can bea needle even. It can pick locks, mend straps, fasten refractory bags: it can be used as a clothespin, a book marker—in in fact, it is a veritable multum in parvo, and the name of its capabilities is legion in the hands of an American girl of fair abilities, “I wish T had an electric bell in the house,” said the mistress of a capacious country dwelling. “Can't Madge arrange you one with half a dozen hairpins?” said the Har- vard student, who, according to the New York Tribune, had been struck dumb with admiration and wonder over the clever and queer eontrivances of the daughter the hou “I am sure sho could do it. The writer heard not long since of a Long Island gir) who, while | driving a friend to the station, upsct the village cart and broke one of the tr and who deftly mended the latter with a hairpin and got her guest to the station in time for the train. But as the smoke of the approaching locomotive showed its white feather in the distance it was discovercd that during the accident tho friend’s dress had been torn quite off the band. ST cannot possibly go to town like this!” she cried in dismay. hokding up al breadths with the gathers com- unripped. Ever equal to the emergency, the fair Long islander drow out several hairpins from her braids, shook back her flying tre ran one hairpin through half of the loosened folds, made a hook at the end so that it could not slip, gathered up the rest on another, fastened it in the same way, se- cured the whole to the band with a third, and finished just as the train came steaming up, so that her visitor went on her way rejoicing, none the worse for | ner exeiting i pl e this flopping affair said a youthful dandy whose mother handed him an umbrella on a rainy day to take to New York. “The strap is broken.” “Here, fasten it with a hairpin,” said the woman, of course, and with a tight, neat little ring made of black wire the umbrella looked sufliciently slim and well volled up to satisfy even the fastidi- 993 fdsto of the young man, R ihta racent dinner at which several Afplothats were present, says. the New York Tribune, the overfertile subject of beautiful women came up, and as usual evoked many commen ms and memorie st beauties as compared with the belles of the present day. “Who the most beauntiful woman you have ever secn?” was asked of the i * 10 ——, who has grown gray in ice and had lived in every largo town in Europe. “Ungu stionably the empress of he replied without & moment's hesitation. =*Of course I speak of the time when she was younger and happ! thaa she is now. I remember well the first time I saw . We were all assembled in o large salon of the palace when some heavy velvet posticres were suddenly drawn back, and she appe surrounded by her ladies. It was like a veritable fairy scene. 1 suppose I was young and foslish and impressionable, but—what a vision of loveliness I thought her! She was dressed in violet, with something glistening all over it, and 1 took it all in at a glance—her regal figure and carriage, her magnificent eyes, and the superb coronet of hair which she wore plaited as one sees even now in her pictures. She spoke most graciously to me, a youngster, and it was then and there that [ became her slave and shall be till [ die!” “Well,” said “one of his listeners, *I never saw the empr of Austria, but I have a picture in my mind that I would not like to lose. My beauty was a an who had lived in Paris most of her life. She was too perf i to require any wits, I suppose, must confess she was rather stupic but it suited her style to be apatheti different. One evening my angel was smoking a cigarette and a~ spar] fell on her light muslin gown. only said languidly, ‘Look, mon ami my dress is on fire; pray put me out,’ and 1 really folt grateful to her for not jump- ing up and scroaming as most women would, thus shattering my ideal of the absolute calm and restfulness of her great beauty,” e A handsome young druggist was in a talkative mood the other day, says a re- porter on the New York Suu. “Women arc queer creaturos,” he said with a vising smile under his mous- tachoe. He pointed to a_large assortment of toilet articles ~temptingly arrayed. There were powder boxes” and rouge pots and the flufliest of puffs, There were rainbow rows of perfumes and toilet waters, There were salves of all sorts, and hair tonics galore. In short, every thing that the care of the feminine fac and form could erave, The handsome young druggist lifted a box of powder. "Its shape was clearly defined in the undisturbed dust which had dvifted upon it. “Phey don't buy em,” he said. “Not at all?” “Oh, sometimes! But, you see, I had an idea that woman simply bathed in serfume, put hair tonic in ‘the shower ath, and was practically clad in cold cream and powder. Assoon as 1 saw & woman coming in the door 1 headed for the cosmetics, in order to meet her on the a|mll. 1 felt sure she would select,” Well?” was the wrong move. By the time 1 fetched up behind the powders and perfumes the woman was leaning over the counter down there, and either an- other clerk made the sale or else 1 had to meekly chasse back.” *‘And what is that counter?” Us the medicine eounter, and about nety-nine out of ever 100 women who come there want & nerve tonie, Sick or well, thin or stout, old or young, their one cry is—uerves! Perhaps, being a OMAHA DAILY BIE: JULY 23, SUNDAY, 18033 - IXTEEN TPAG man and therefors an animal, eaid by women to be totally lacking in nerves, | may be a trifle skeptical, but upon my word [ don't thiuk half of them need a nerve tonic any more than they need w0 tongues! “If you want to make your everlasting rtune, why invent a new nerve tonie. They all go with a rush Weo have one patron, & good, strong woman, whose only nerve trouole is that she thinks sho hus nerve trouble. She has tried every remedy we have in stock. He system ought, by this time, to be per- foctly callous to any new compound, but I have just sold her a bottle of the pres- ent fashionable nerve soother. She has a pillow of dried poppy flowers, another of hops, another of balsam, and so on and on, Today, for the first time, I sold her a box of powder. She says it will last her three years. She doesn't believe ‘ehoking up the pores of the skin all sorts of rubbish.’ “Quite right!” “Yes, but she'll choke her entire in- ternal arrangement with any sort of de- coction which bears the magica! inscrip- tion, ‘Nerve ic. Women are cor- tainly queer ¢ And the young the despised powde k sighed as he put back on the shelf. u’! There is one great need of humani parrticularly of feminine humani that is at last receiving well-deserved, although tardy, recognition and consid- eration. Much is now said and written about the great need of rest and relaxa- tion of the mind. The tremendous, rushing strain of the life of today calls imperatively for an offsct to the tension of daily existence as a necossary sequence of overexertion, and therefore we have ‘‘rest cures,” massage treat- ments, “quict retreats” and a host of new remedies for ovepwrought and brains, that were never dreamed of tweaty years ago. The disciples of Delsarte believe in rest— morally and mentally, as well as phys- ically—and it Is a sign of the times that the curious combination of his philo- sophical and sentimental calisthenics is received with so much favor and prac- ticed so universally. “Do you remembe asked 0 woman of socicty the other day. **He belic in what is now called ‘rest cure’ years and years ago. 1 re- member very well a formula he gave me when 1 was first married, which wa practically the sume thing that ever one advocates nowaduys. 'Whenever a woman feels tired," he used to say, ‘or discouraged or depressed, or out of sorts gene , she should Iie down and be absolutely quiet for fifteen minutes, The eyes should be closed and the mind should be made a blank as far as pos- old Dr. L— sible. No pitlow” should be used, her nead reclining on a level with her shoulders. She should not even think of the ti but have some at the expiration of the time. ™This treg J he used to say, ‘repeated twice a day wonderful effect on nervous womer one call her e Do you know how to wash dishes? Not merely so that you get them off the kitchen table into the china closet, but s0 that the despised and aded task becomes almost a pleasure. This is the way to accomplish that result: As soon as the cooking is done fill all the cooking utensils with water and leave them to soak. When the meal is ended scerape all the plates clean—not with a knife, for that scratches and nicks—but with a soft picee of left-over 1. Put the plates inone pile, the in another, the cups, empticd of rinings, together, and the glass and silver together. a bowl of water cool enough to our hand to remain in it a few without scalding, but hot, and wash the glasses with soap in vhat. Dry them as fast us they are washed. 1 you let them stand upon a tray the air dr them and does it in streaks where the water is trickling down. Have a soft, clean, lintless cloth for this purpose. Then wash the silver: the water should bo very hot for this. 1i there are any crevices, clean them with a brush kept for the pur Dry on a clean towel and polish with v powder. Next wash your cups and saucers—one atatime. Use o mop witha handle, and don't, in this day and generation, be without one of those wire kitchen con- veniences known as u soup shaker. Wipe each cup and saucer before putting it out of your hand, ov it will dry partialiy and streakily, and be rough to the touch. Aftor the ciips and saucers, wash the plates in the same way. Then clean the tins, and then the pots and pans. To clean knives, rub with a soft flannel dipped in powdered bath-brick, or in wood ashes. Never let the ivory handles be dipved in hot wator. ins may be kept in a state of dazzling brightn by being rubbed with sifted wood ashes with whitening. Copper utensils should be scoured with rick dust and flannel. dish cloths and mops should be washed, scalded and dried after each i The towels should never be ide in & damp lump, but should be hung to dry, and then dropped into the kitchen hamper against washing d ay. Fho atshpan should be thoroughly washed with soap and water, scoured and vinsed with scalding water, dried and hung on its own hook. Then the sink shouid be scoured and rinsed with scalding water, in which common soda has been dissolved. e The American sojourners at D winter had their oy white and blue capes. by the highestr at outdoor celebra idea is French e last gladdened by red, These were worn wesentatives of fashion ions of all sorts, The and its inspiration the French tricolor. But there is no American who does not eutertain a prior cluim to this trinity of tints by at least a half score of yeal These capes have been introduced into this countr; They are of fine. smooth- fuced cloth, In whatever the order of tints, the red or the blue being first, a covding to the complexion and hair, the white is always the center cape. The Columbian yi 5 to these capes an especial pertineace, Nothing s gayer and prettier. Such patriotic blazon, to throw across the shoulder, the chai or hang on the arm on board yacht the row boat, at the races, or whe J people conyoke in the open air for pleas- ure and en ainment. In the ve attractive model shown the edges of the capes are bordeved with git. This gives & gayly imp military aspect to the wrap, in sonce as coquettish as patriotic, ve any sort can find an attr sion in dress. These capes of tricolor are an exception. Itis only curious that awhole century passed before the introduced. It is to the alert, artistie, Frenth mind, with its memories of 1793, that they ave due. Our right to wear them, however, is not impaired thereby. It is seldom that enlarged sentiment of ive expres- *"e If you are that proud and enviable creature, a business woman, you might as woll make a study of the art of keep- ing cool. You are pledged to the city for the ater part of the can't wear loose wrappe noon naps. From 9 until 6 you are in an oftice where your collar must be as stiff as in December,and your thair coiled, as neatly as at Valentine's day. gin the day with & bath and g brushing of the hair. Let your gauze [ Toss t and your stockings be fresh at loast | ark of “byw-wows," “‘mew-mews” and day. If you can afford silk yon ‘ ‘g meas blue velvet ap- ind that the ¥glest material for | plig mbroidery. A broad divan is at both those articles. df not, lisle thread | gne end, with a little rail around it. _Of is fairly cool. Spun &ilk vests and stock- | course, the toys ar ondid, and in- ings, however, M‘{ nxr "asonable that it | clude a musical box, 'n by a royal might be well ‘td Wiegoa fow four-in- | godparent, which plays 100 different hands and chamois gloves to purciase | melodies. ' The bed room is draped in them 3 soft pink and white China_silk: the cot Over the silk vest fasten your corsets | itselfl is sandal wood, inlaid with mother or your reform wal¥t™ A pair of muslin | o' pearl, and is, wisely, without cur drawers, a_muslin €arset cover, sleeve- | tains. y and low-necked, and n very silk skirt will bo quite enough’in the line of underweaty The silk potticoat, by the way, is coolor than starched mus- lin, and is quite a8 €@ nomical when the laundry bills are eansidered. However much, you may long for lawns and organdiag, do not wear them downtown, The dust of the elevated roads will sprinkld “them with cinders; an unexpected shower will send you home the most bedraggled spectacle; the crowds will crush your pretty gown out of all its crispness and freshnees. light Cling to dark clothes that can be brushed and shaken. Get the lightest possible weight of cloth and have it made into the lightest possible skirt and jacket. Your fondness for gay colors may expend itself upon your shirt waists of linen, chambray " and gingham, A simple hat, not necessarily a sailor, a parasol, low shoes and loose gloves will complete as cool an outfit as the business woman can hope to assume. The Hungarian women are among the most beautiful in the world. They are not languishing, diaphanous creatures, composed of cobwebs and the odor of musk, with a sickly pallor or a hectic flush in their cheeks. . No! Erect and straight as a candie, hearty and vigor- ous to the core, they are pictures of good health and abounding vitality. They are gifted with small fect, full arms, plump hands with tapering fingers, and they wear long braids. The sun has spread a reddish-golden tintora darke the ¢ )ln{vhvxinn. The Hungarian woman is not a beauty of classical eontour, nor docs she perhaps frequently present a riddle to the psy chologist, and ethereal J»ools will scarcely find a theme in her or hypersentimental reveries. She is rathér the vigorous embodiment of primeval womanhood. As her exterior, s0 her whole chara, ter is enchantingly o fresh and positive. She lites to eat well, is fond of a little wine, takes naturally to swimming, dancing, gymnast and has not the least objection to being admired. Grace and beauty know no difference between high and low, and often bestow upon a poor, bare-footed, short-skirted peasant girl (with her face framed in a kerch tied under the chin) the same enchan ing form, the same graceful walk, the same magically attractive glance as upon her more favored sister, e he greatest and first essential to physical perfection in woman is a figure without an angular line. Nature avoids angular lines overywhere, but in the human fizure espéciully. A perfectly formed woman will #fand at the average height of five feet three inches to five feot seven inches: She will weigh from 125 to 140 founds. - A plumb line dropped from a point marked by the tip of her nose will touch ata voint one inch in front of her great toe. Her shoulders and her hips will' strike a straight line drawn up and down. Her waist will taper gradually o a'size on a line drawn from the outer third of the collar bone to the hips. Her bust will measure from twenty-eight tothirty-six inches, her hips will measure from six to ten inches more than this,; and ther waist will call for a belt from: twenty-twoto twenty- eight inches. he arms ofs:thd. perfectly formed womun will end at the waist line, so that she can rdst her elbowon the table while standing ercet, and her forearm should extend to a point permitting the fingers to mark a point just below the middle of the thigh. Her neck and thigh should be of about the same circumferenc The calf of her leg ana arm should measure about the sume. Her legs should be about as long 0s & line drawn from her chin to her finger tips, or about one-half her height, say from two feet seven and a half inches to two feet nine and a half inches. She should measure from her waist to her feet about a foot more than from her waist to the crown of her head. Her neck should be from twelve to fourteen inches around, her head evectand on a line with the central plane of her body, and her feet should be of a size and shape to conform with her hands. Although sizes in foot- wear and glovés vary somewhat, a well proportioned woman wears a shoe one- halt the size of the glove that her hand calls for: thus. if u lady weurs with com- fort a No. 6 glove she should wear a No. 3 shoe. . ¥ Any woman who wishes to be a social success should cultivate the gift of re- nboving faces and names. A little to the time, a little care to fix idual by name and feature in the memory, will bring its sevenfold reward. While some lucky people pos- sess the facility naturally, and others are wofully deficientin this respect, still it can be cultivated; so that study will supply the lack of memory, and the social aspirant may ‘‘assume a virtue though sho have it not.” *No one can fancy the trouble it gives me to be unable to remember faces and names,” said a well known leader in society. I think, on the whole, it is better to make a mistake on the side of friendliness than to ap pear snubby and forgetful; but I seem always doing the most absurd things. The other day in an omnibus 1 worried over the face of a nice looking girl sitting opposite me, fecling suve thut [ must know her, and not being able to fix her inmy mind until she got out at Mme. L.’s drossmak- ing establishment. Then I realized that sho was one of the show women. It is awkward to shake hands warmly with your best friend's maid; to cut one of your husband’s best business friends dead; to hold long.conversations at a dance®ith well dwessed young men whom youdo not know trom Adam; to smile and nod to perfect strangers, re- ceiving a strong glane, in return; and to mistake the son jof, the house for the butler, as i did thg other day, all be- cause 1 have never been able to acquire the royal facultyjofgpver forgetting o remember the nayne yhat fits each face.” W Baby worship onwtho part of young mothers has sadlysgene out of mod ) often the. maternal duties abore than otherwise. It is delightful to-come across a charm- ing exumple of it When one can, and in Paris, too! The ppincess de Tarento holds the highestgapk both for beauty, birth and wit, ull«t),pl, she is not too tin de siccle to adore Ler first child. She hns designed and arranged the most lovely of nurseries in which to lodge this lordlet of ereation, and, although [ fear fow can imitate, some may like to hear o big nursery is a good- with throe sunny windows, rooms adjoin, one being baby's sleoping room. the ether. his bath room. The walls and ceiling gre in pink and deco- rated with panels of fairy tales und nursery couplets done hy hand: Cind ella, Old Mother Hubbard and doz besides hardly know themselves in their dainty colors and designs. On'the floor is a nice, fleccy, thick white carpet, on which a perfect Noal's zed room 0 smaller | | of little brushes, The bath room is in keeping and is 1 with white Milton tiles, painted wild flowers from the lanes, The ar bottles and powder boxes in ivory, with a tiny gold mono- gram and coronet, makes one sigh that one was not born with a golden spoon in one’'s mouth. Four nurses are the suite of this infant, one being entirely for night duty. .'u Half the ills that woman 0 say doctors, from the fright- fully high pressure at which they live nowadays. k headache, or migraine, as they call it abroad, universal s from over- insomnia and hysteria ave all on the' increase in the upper classes. Theve 18 & mania to see and to bo seen; to learn everything, from politicaleconomy to clear starching. 1n short,women of the upper classes do too much. Perhaps they cannot help them- selves, owing to the exigencies of so- ciety, says an English exchange. at the women whom one meets who have been doing the season. Are they not pale. worn, anxious, high strung? Ac- cording to a great medical authority, if only London women would once in every ten days take a whole day's complete rest in bed, they would retain their health, spirit and energios much longer than they do. Of course, this advice is only meant for really hard working women of fashion who are obliged to keep late hours, is heir to Fa on Frills, New gold is a brilliant shade for bru- nettes. The rage for colored linen dresses still continues. Ermine is to be the fur of the imme- diate future, White silk serge is much used for dr and noglige waists. The favorite handkerchiefs at present are of India linen almost as sheer as mist. Small gimps with a touch of color in them are used as headings in the place of jet. Corduroy silk chiffon is a French ma- terial with more body than the plain chiffon. Long empire scarfs of chiffon or lace thrown over the shoulders give a quaint touch to the costume. Paradise feathers are included in the list of old-fashioned newcomers, and will be used to trim turbans, A novelty in trimming isivory jet upon black net in tiny disks, with a thick fringe of black and ivory. The notion for white weddings con- tinues, and also to use only one variety of flower in the decorations. Old-fashioned cherry color is used with white dresses, and makes a pretty, bright effect for young girls. Indian printed silks are brought into service again for blouses and draped ices to be worn with crepon skirts, Spangled brocades are among the new silks. Gray, showered with steel or sil- ver, is especially pretty for light mourn- ing. Novel French skirts are shaped with many gores, then gathered front and back, but left with & plain smooth gore at the sides. Short pelerines made of a double- plaited bias strip of the material of the dress are a fashionable substitute for a street mantle. It is said that the knell of the white ovening glove has been sounded in Paris, and that flesh-colored suede will take its place, Panama hats, trimmed with bands of velvet or colored roscttes and shaded wings, are much worn, espezially for boating purposes. An exquisite parasol is of smoke-gray chiffon gathered over a pale yellow silk lining. The handle has a knot of yel- low Dresden china. The latest fad for the owners of dogs is to make them wear shoes in the house to protect the polished floors. The shoes are made of chamois skin. The fashion of wearing a cluster of real flowers pinned on the bodice has been revived again. Marguerites on snowy satin make a lovely effcet. Lace embroidered in colors is a fas- cinating novelty for evening gowns. Cream lace, embroideved in gold and turquoise, is effective on ivory brocade. Hats are generally becoming broader and rounder in the brim. If the straw is not deep enough the lace is arranged to fall with a lampshade-like effect over the forchead., A pretty cape is made of green velvet, fringed with jet sequins and trimmed with perpendicular lines of jet. The upper cape is of coarse black tulle, with falling ends in front. Sail cloth is not, as the uninitiated might suppose, & fabric like to that which speeds the boat upon its way. It is a woolen fabric, soft, pliable, loosely woven and very light in weight. A stylish finish for the shoulders of a decolette costume is a couple of mercury wings of black or white lace or spangled gauze. Wired bows which stand out like the wings of a butterily are also used. The pretty tan hosiery has brought out some very dainty bronze ties, beaded with bronze beads. One design of bronze slippers has the instep strap and the toe slashed across in slits an inch and a half long. The tprincess of Wales appears at the opera dressed in black veiled in jet and embroidered chiffon. The fact that all ladies wear either black or white insures these colors to be the lead- ing ones of fashion, The great state bail in London gave Look | opportunity to study the latest fashiohs in dressing the hair. Tho prevailing style was an arrangemont of eurls high on the head and_ extending to the nape of the neck. Very few chignons were secn, while many Indics wore their hair parted down the center and much rippled and waved on cither side. Svrays of diamonds wero the usual ornamentation The new tea services are little beau ties. The dainty cups, cream sot, bowl and low teapot are arranged ona revolv- ing tray of the china. One scen re- contly was decorated with sprays of for- -me-nots, the deen sealloped edges finished with broken gilt trimmings. As the little cups swung sround you could almost detect the odor of the tea, for when served in such dainty service it is natural that this important feature of the evening meal should seem to bo endowed with a flavor unusually sweet. One of the most delightful dresses seon this summer was made entirely of wide | white embroidery mounted in flounces on a white muslin_ foundation skirt. The bodice, mounted on a white muslin lin- Iim_'. had bretelles made of the em- broidory, let out ita full width in the | shoulder, and narrowed at the belt by plaits. Inside the bretelles a width of | embroide was folded in each front in surplice folds, opening wide over a white linen chemisctte, worn with white collar and flat tie of white lawn. The belt was a width of embroidery. LAFRECK Makes a Clean Sweep of Freckles. La Freckla is now removing freckles in full blast. A few days’ application of the famous remedy will remove any freckles in existence. Every bottle guaranieed. Money refunded in case of failure—over 1,000,000 cures in one year and not one failure. Price $1.00 per bottle. Mail orders promptly filled. PUBLIC NOTICE. Mme. Yale's Complexion Remedies are the only Beautifiers in the World’s Fair, showing them to be the best in the world, selected on theirgreat merit. When visiting the World's Fair Visit Mme. 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