Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, July 10, 1892, Page 15

A NEBRASKA GIRL 1N GREECE &'rom Athens to 8puty with Glimpres of the Arcadian Way. THE PILGRIMS OF PELOPONNESUS Wen-Plotures of 1 Kxte n With the 8 Weaving of the Dowry, eresting Interiors Mory Four Colossal Tors the Peninsula Handred ctan ATness, June 8,— [Correspondence of T Brr.]—~We were a party of four, just a com- fortablo carriage load. Our hosts, an eminent Now York lawserand his gifted wife: guests, the cousul and tho consul's dunghter. Our Yriends are enthusiastic Grecians, who have Jooked forwara to this trip, they tell us, as the crowning event of their lives, ana thoy will not bo disappointed. The consul is suturated with Grook—really much more Greek thun the majority of the Greeks—and we neod no other encyclopedia, as ho nas caravaned over every inch of the ground be- fore. Tue cousul's daughter is chiefly useful as intorproter, a very mochanical function perhups you think, but by no means so easy when it comes to dcaling with Greek cupid- fty. Sho is quite ready to absorb all the knowledge and exporionse that come in her way and to sit at the fect of theso learncd people “aking notes. We discussed our plans overnight in the consul's parlor and endod with baving no plans ot all. All we knew was that wo jould go somewhere a7 o'clock the next morning. The rest was delightful uncer- winty, It was drizzling and gloomy the next day, but nothing daunted we drove to the station and took the tram for Corinth ‘Wo had our cosy little apartment all to our- selves, Greek cars und engines are mere absurd toys compar d with our great mon- sters, but they are big enough for the litle Kingdom, This whole way is replete with historical interest. Five minutes stop in the pretty station of Kleusis, from which we could’ get a plimpse of the Eleusinian Acropolis, but the great Tomplo of the Mysteries, with its double bropytma, is hidden from view aroand under the hill. Wo do not mind, though, as we recall ruany beautiful drives over the Sacred Way and have studied out the different temples and lunched in Pluto's shrine, But the consul reads to us the ever- retty story of Demeter from an excellent French author. Wo next pass Meg seem already 10 be pre ous [aster dances to be hoeld a woeek hence, As we look back upon the historic city it makes quaint picture, its low adoboe houses built_in terraces on the billside with the round steeple of a preity Byzantine church crowaing the summit, From here wo follow the Corinth through scenery chunting that we are quite carried away with delignt and only regret the impossibility of looking out-both windows at once. On one side tho sbining Alzean, withits gircle of islunds stretching awuy ind8tinitely—Salamis and the scenc of the battle, Aiging und many others—while on our right ' riso high wals of rock, sheer precipices which seem to reach the elouds, for we cinnot see the top. The 18thmus wo cross in all to short a time, but wo caught a glimpso of the field of tho fsthmian cames, and looked down into tha anul which Nero began sud left. for our gen- eration to finish. It is cut clear througn almost down to the level of the two gulfs, wiich seom so close together that the onl wonder is it hadn’t been completed centurics 8g0, tho task scouing so oasy. Andromuche Sehtiomann’s Home, Modern Cormnth, alas, retains bul scaut traces of her ancient glory, and it took a lot of imagination to put ourselves n_Paul’s place. But I bave sice read Byron's “Siepo of Corinth’? and it all seemed very real. Ages cannot change the grand old Acrocorinthus, which rises boforeus in allits sty. Think of thoscencs it has wit- sed, of the passiug of gewerations upon wrugeling, ambitious souls, still stands sereuely indifferent and sugeablo. Itis ull wo neea to bring back the vast imos. But tho state of the weather admorishes us to keep right on to Argos,s0 we spand tho few precious moments studying the railway lunch counter of tho Corinthians; and sigh in vain for the gener ous cups of hot coffen and ham sandwiche: of our native land, while we still our crav- iugs with the resinous wine of the country, black brend and Greek cheese. Ivery- vody who has cver traveled 1n Groeco assures us that we shall learn to ery for this wine as the occidental baby for Castoria, but We are as yet ex- wremely skeptical. 'Time ouly will show. As we swing southward another hour brings us to Nemen, with its memories of that muscular “old hero,” Hercules, and his combat with the Nemean lion. Of course, now that we buve seen the actual spot, it is quito impossible not 1o be perfectly convinced of the historical truth of the story. It was with keenest nterest that we discerned tho famous citadel of Mycoui, with 1ts Liou's Gate—just distinguishable indeed, for the railway leaves it a mile o more to tho east. But we kunew and adwirea intensely tho great explorer, woo has brought to light such wines of precious bistory, and whose Mycenie collection is perbaps the most in- toresting thing in Athens—uunless we accept his_daughter, Andromacte, whom 1 ofton yisit av tho classic and stately balt of Ilion, wnd whose engagement, . by the way, we wero surprised 10 seo announced in Tur Bee even whilo it was the fresh sensation of Athens. With what queenly erace she recoives the flatteries and attentions of o bost of udmirers, seated in the midst of a bovy of her favorites, lovely spirituello Greok girls, all with comfortuble dots but none to be compared with Androm- ache, So tho young (ireeks knew very woll for they are all fortune hunters. But now it is all setilod and the bappy wan is Lionel Melus, the mayor's son, Who pOssesses @ handsomo faco aud fortine and the tradi- tionul bright Groek mind, But how 1 am_wandering, to bs sure! Where was 17 Oh, yes, at Mycenw. We now sight fair Nauvlia, extremely pictur esque in the distance, as wo whirl througn the plain and across tha Trachus 10 Argos. Hero wo hud fain rested, but the ramn still dripped,and leaving the land of Diomedes aud Agumencion to be studied at a more con- Vouient season wo kept on to_Arcadia, Wo realize the insigniticance of Groeco in point of sizo when wo arrivo in Tripobs at 4 o'clock, the distance looked s0 long on the @ap, and takes in so much, A Colebrution in ra and notice that they aring for the fam- ea all the way to s0 varica and en- ripotls, Wo wore glad to pack ourselves and our baws in a little old cartand be whirled away through the narrow old streots to the Crown botel, crossing on tho way the principal square or agora, surrounded on four sides by quuiit arcned bazars fillea with ail sorts of ueer Greek knick-knacks. At the door of the inn our host receives us with the bland- est of smiles ana the lowest of bows. He is 8 baudsomo rascal, with snowy locks and anowy starched kilt shirts, scar leggins, foz und sliocs, and be is ultogother o re- freshment to the eves, How can we think of whiter sepulchers yet—but wait! Wo wore shown upstairs 10 & nice little room containing four beds, gay with scarlot covers. Our host's color scoms to bo red. We gently explain that we profer two upartments, He is ot u loss Lo understand this biv of squeam asbnoss but not at all loth to provide the ex tra room contaiuing throo bods. A long and complicated Greok menu is produced and wo sre rather nouplussed to find scarcely o sin- Eglo recoguizably dish-—10! 50 strange s thing after all considering the Frenchiness of our Athonian cuisine. But we give our order and think it all the merrier to have even our divner a mystery. Woure hungry,as boars nd everything iy perfection from the fricas soed lamb and olives to the rizogallo, or pud- ding of rice cooked with milk. It is surpris ing low fast we are ucoustoming ourselves to What drendful bitter wine. Dioner done, We go shouping i Arcadis, dragging our Rood wan of law with us, secking vainly to Doguile hum into purcunsing & shuggy shep- herd’s coat, white und picturesque, for use #8 4 luprobe in New York if noth- fog elso. But we had to be <oa tent with some smallor souvenirs—fan- tastio handkerchiofs which tho peas- ant women wore on their beads like the no gro bandanua, some band-knit lambs' wool $ooks, nOL 100 dainty, bLut suggestive of Greek industry, red shoes, which remind one of the Ialian gondolas, ete. We found the streets und the people in boliday array, and wondered if 'twes all for the distinguished trangers until wo were buwbled by the ree- ollection that this was the Greek “Fourth, and they are celobrating their escape from the heavy yoke of the ‘“unspeakable Turk.” Flags were flying from the housetops and groat bonfires of pitch, fod by the tireless small boys ana placed along at rogular inter- vals, lighted ous footsteps. Thero is no lack of firecrackers and rockets, but they are not 0 noisily patriotio as we are ar home. We ot back to the hotel just in the nick of time, for our balcony .looks over on that of the demarch, or mayor, and we hear him deliver his Fourth of July (or rather ith of April) speech to a mob of noisy boys, who listen, however, very attentively. It is *all Greek to most of us: b the Gireeks are great orators and it is wonderful to sec the small Demosthenes in pinafor spenk their pieces at school with a confidenc and with the gestures that would put Delsarto's devoteés to the blush and be the despair of our stump speakers, At the col clusion of the haranguo the national hymn is chantod ana with much rab-rabing and zotos for King Goorge, Tricoupis aud Greece thoy pass on waving their lightea torches. Wo think it great luck to witness here in the heart of Arcadia the finish of the new na- tion's birthda aghing It in Arcadia, used four beds, to bo sare, but the mvstory of the other three was solved in the morning when our honest host brought in his account for seven bods, at threo drachmas oach ! The rest of that bill was a work of fiction, and tho total jist a little more than twice his due. Our purse- bearer edited it with great care, and ten- dered the new total with the alternative of taking that or awaiting our ploasure. As ho would not como to torms, we loft him to his meditations and took oug carriage for Sparta, You wiil be surprised at his trusting us, but just in so far as we distrust these rogues they have porfect faith 1 us, and seem to think it uttorly impossible for us to deviate from the path of righteousness, We drive for soveral miles through the smooth and fertile Tegoau plain. The moun- tains surround us on ali sides. As wo begin to ascend we tako advantage of the slow- paced horses to wall a litile, and the plain is a glorious picture as wo look down upon it, tho ereat lake which raceives all the waters of Arcadia was nestled so prestily amone tho hills. Arcadia, the dreamiand of poots and artists, more than fulfills all our expecta- tions. Tho shaggy-coated shepherd, all_in white with his crook and bis dog, dvives his flock by us, or as we look down from our high mountain roaa we can sco the white dots in the green valley below. Nothing could be more boautiful, more varled thun 18 our Arcadinn drive, the rocky gorges, the rushing mountain torrents and the grand rugged chams of mountains themselves. But I quite despair of conveying any idea of the grandeur to those who have not seen it. I cannot point landscapes with either pen or brash, 8o leave it o others who have that enviable eitt. At noon wo hulted for rest and refreshmont at one of the kbans, or lit- tle mountain inns, which are the only ston piug places one finds in rural Greece, - Thoy are decidedly more picturesque than clean; but are we not in Arcadia, and so quite con- tent to take the simplo far. of the peasants, Wo are quite surewe neversaw anything like this khau vefore. The tallest of us stooped down to enter the little, low, mud building where we find one rough table and four wooden benches near the ono littlo loopbolo in thewall to hight tho whole. The black bread, encose and wine accorded with the surroundings and -~ what greater delicacy could we ask for than the Laconian honey, sweet and golden, which made our dessert. Wo note tho littie bar, in_front of which rough kegs of resinate ara displayed and the low roof of rafters blackened with tar and soot; thoe coltl stoue floor, and tho utter cheerlossness of the whole place, An Ame ican stable of tho moanest sort would bo a palaco 1 comparison. On a sort of ised platform at ouo end of the khan, ached by two or throo rickety steps, we find o motley array of feilow travelers, mostly in tho shepherd's costume, scated cross lezged around u roughly made fire of olive wood. Over it a kettie is morrily boil- ing, filled with a nameloss Greek vogotaole, which thoy sonk in raucid oil and make tneir meals of, all dipping from the same carthern font and soppiu< their black bread in 1t, in #8 primitive a fashion os beart could desire. It didn’t look appetizing, this weed, or ver nourishing, but the poor people hern scarcoly ever taste meaf. When they had finished thoy politely vacated wm our favor ana wo drew up our wooden benches aud thought tbis “roughing it in earnest. Near us were four dirty homespun blankets, in which the houschold roll themselves at might and sleep round the fire, for thera are no beds. There is the bread trough, n rough stono basin, and home- mado iron forks hung up in a gourd in the corner, evidently the total of ancestral plate. Outside and quite by itself is the baking oven, a great bechive-shaped affair and look- ing big_enough to turn out bread for an army. Nearby a wrinkled old woman was washing, 8 procedure which we watched with deepest interest. When these southern women do grow oid thoy aresuch hags—that is, the poor nard-worked ones. Sho had never heard of tubs or wringer or washboard, vut has a ketulo boiling over o fire, on the usual three sticks. Sho dips from this from time to umo and pours the water upon the course homespun shirts which were sproad out on u large flat stone. She did use soap plontifully und with a conveniently shapod wooden stick pounded the dirt out” and the soap in, and it is asatisfaction to see that tho clothes'coma out very clean, though 1 can’t see how there would bo o shread left after such rough usae, rta of Today. We are four hours from Sparta and we think nature very partial to this lovely lana, entranced with her lovely farms as the boundary of Arcadiaaand La conia, and when we sight the glorious plain of Sparta bolow us, stretching down to the sea, with the Eurotas river winding in and out among the thick orange groves—our cup 15 fiiled, and all words faile us We could see little Sparta, looking as severoly simplo with its square white houses as it must have iooked in the days of its glory. As woe move southward the flowers are more abundant and varied. Lovely bunches of piok on the mountainsides, vivid patehes of yeliow gorse, whilo among the many ficlds of wheat the tall poppies 1ift their proud heaas, their brilliant scarlet contrasting with the groen. We drove through soveral picturesque villages, and wero charmed, with the circular 'stono threshing floors which are often built out over the edge of a ravine, and are now prot tily overgrown with poppies and wheat, which push their way up through the cracks inthe stones. On foto daysthe men and maidens turn this into a danciug floor, though the dance does not much resemble ours. The lovely white fleur-de-lis grows in great clustors along the roadside. On the outskirts of Sparta we began to see evidences of Dr. Waldstein's late excava- tions there, the earth looking as if freshly nlowea up under the fine old olive trees, with & bit of wall or the shaft of a column pushing up into view. The streets of the city are as broad and RUASSErown as those of oUr western Lowus, Aftor carefully comparing the merits of the two botels (aud, truth to tell, they are about equaily dirty), we decided for the hotel of the Crown. as cue landlord was fat and good natured with an altogether woll fed appear- anco that spoke well foe the establishment. The jurist was bungry and had set bis heart all the way down on ome spitted lamb, so I penotrated into the cook’s domain and found our lanalord (who happened to be mau of all work) stirriug the identical black broth that the tough old Sovartans used to eat in thewr barracks at tbe common table. But we Athenians preferred our lamb, whicn proved tiptov, und sowe vice salad with olive oil, We rotired early, some of us, to tind tho Laconiau flen altogether too soclavle, The sufferings of thac little Spartan with tho fox were not a circumstanco to ours, and, by the way, wo saw somo fine foxskins bangiog in the shop windows in the agora, s0 the hunting wust stll be good in Tay wotus, The night's torture ended, the kitchen must be invaded once more. The landlord was gone and 10 his place was a small boy very much in need of a bath and very sleepy. But he proves better thau he looks, for he but mildly resents the sugges- tiou that the coffee pot should be washed— au entirely useloss procoeding, as it nover held anything but coffee. He had to shufle bick and forth botween the iun aud parts unkuown for overy article required, whethor bread, water or salt, as it seems Lo be the rule not to keep & scrap of anvtping in the bouse from one wmeal to another, I rashly wquire for butter and he briugs & tin of if, very vellow and temptiog, though porhaps a little too fragrant. I think, though it will be & great surprise to the others and s0 1t s, One sniff is enough for the jurist, whose tastes are rather lonic. However, the consvl insistea that we hold onto it aud declarea that it becume fresher and sweeter overy day; but it bad stay g qualities and was still with us when we' eof Lack Lo Athous, six days later. Notso with | Spartan \ THE DAILY the luscious Laconian honey, which moro than deserves its repatation: in a pot of it wo found consolation for & multitude shortcomings. or short commons,if vou prefer. Then there was the Scotch tea in our own basket drawn et last, tuough wo bad only one pitcher at our disposal and that full of hot goat's milk A Spartan W Thus refroshed, we a drive through the ol the agora to the Acropolis, all Iying outs tho present town. Littlo is left of the cient city, but the the is_atill well defined and the supporting walls in good preservation, Orchestra and amphithestre are now planted with olives and overgrown with waving wheat and bright red poppios aud precious bits of marble are scattered about. 1 don’t think it could ever have been so pretty us now. The untirving archwologist had been at work here too ana succoeded in making . mudhole where the stage should bo, a groat pity we thought, as we flounderod 11 up to ouraikles, K'rom tho Acropolis we got our first satisfactory view of “Taygetus—one of the loveliost we had ever beheld—its snowy peaks all the more beautiful for being somewhat misty and obscure, and _seeming to lose themselves in the sky above. For I must tell you that the gods have seemed to frown upon us from the start and Helios has obstinately refused to show himself, but be did condescend to beatn a little for our bevefit as wo were wading in search of Leonidas’ tomb, as they thiink con- veniont to call the great quadranguiar foundation betweon the theater and the town, which may quite as well belong to Lycurgus or any other old Spartan. While lunching av the “‘public mess,” so to speak, and in the public gaze, for the inn tables wore crowded with sturdy Spartans, we received n courteous note from the demaren (mayor) welcoming us to nis demas and offering us av accomplished escort in the person of & eymaasium professor, Mr. Nes- the first authority on Spartan topo- praphy and author of a work now on tue press on that subject. the consul had left bis pausanias bebind, and the professor was loaded with archivological lore the ngemont was naturally acceptable. Ho lared himself ready to turn Sparta insido out for us and was so hospitable and beawm- inz that we were very wlud to accept his offer of a room at his house for the ladies during the rest of our stay in 8§ Wo finally found an old edition of Pansamms at one of the two book shops, whero wo woro amused 10 see also Cooper's “Last of the Mohicans' in Greek, gavly bound, displaying on the cover a redskin of the fiercest ord:r and cal- oulated to make tho eyes of the Spartan youngsters pop out of their heads. Tunere was also a Greek “Robinson Crusoe” and stacks of Greek primers, short and easy, and profusely illustrated, exasperating LY ' cou- trast with the torture mills we are ground through in the name of Greek at home. The jurist’s wife bought one and began forth- With 10 speak (ireck—n point which our col- leginns at home never reach The demarch received us with oper arms, as he hud not forgotten the consul and the great carsvan which camped two days on the Spartan Acropolis last vear, In fact a forcign consul, if known to bo such, can hardly travel in the provincos without being a part of public gush and overwhelmed with Hellenic hospitality, and it is notably so at Sparta. The present domarch 1s the chiof physician of the province and a most genial, simple winded gentleman. Irom his broad valcony we looked down into a lovely orange garden and thougnt 1t strange to Seo the luscious yeliow fruit and tho fragrant, pure biossoms growing side by side on the same treo. We were constrained to partake of an elaborate variety of Greok cakes, very rich aud heavy, with bhoney and butter, but so appetizing that our jurist forgot bis dvspep- sia and satistied his Soul with good things in spite of wifely vrotests, which were all of no avail. But we heara from him lal Then small glassos of of cognac wers served and exquisito orangende—all by tho same stuu- ming retainer in suown fustanella and linon greaves and scarlet and slipvers. The demarch’s housekeeper, a very bright and keen-looking lady in introduced her- self as a matehn legitimato business in Greeco) and offered to negotiate a Spartan alliance on the Spot. As thers was butone eligible in our party the situation was not free from embarrassmont. However, the intendea victim escaped with nothing more serious than a buraon of orange biossoms at the good woman’s hand Home of a Spartan Village Lord. This was our cntreo inlo Spartan society and the rest of ovr stay was a continual whirl of dissipation such as we had never dreamed of at howe. Antiquities and ordinary signt. socing weresocondary mattors and threatenod to besadly neglected.” Welooked through the littlo museum, with its portico supported by Toaic columns and containing some intetest- ing inscriptions and works of ancient art, and then set out for a drive to the ruins of Amyclie, the prehistoric sacred city of La- conia. in came down in_ torrents and we w 1 to tako refugo in a pic- turesque wayside inn, where we found oth- crs haa preceded us, peasants, mostly in shaggy sheepskin coats, who were sociably chatting and _imbiting resinats with 0o care for the tempest without. We soon had enough_of this and our good professor pro- posed that wa push on ton uearby village and visit his friend, the village lord, Our road was of ‘the narrowest and crookedest, and the flood from heaven did mnot improve it, but with a good bit of wading we got through av last to Slavochorion (the nameis a reminisconce of tho Slavie occupation a thousand years ago or more) and found ourseives at the threshold of the great rude stone house. It stands in a mag- nificent grove of orange trees, the boughs bending under their load, aud tho ground strewn wita_the fallen overripe fruit. Our host, o grand old fellow with a carriage and stride that Booth would envy, greeted us with “lalos orisate,” welcome, and helped us toscud undor our umorellas into the groat house, where we were in turn greeted by his two comely daughters. Unfor- tunately, as we thought, they had discarded the pretty Greck costume, as their attempt at Parisian modes was not very successiul, toolke our intrusion very calmiy and busied themselves nelpivg their mother (a rather retty, blue-eyed lady) to preparo Turkish coffce on the cheerful glowing hearth in the room ad- joining. Tne room of state, in which we wero received, was largo and airy with a wooden sottee against the wall, the family photos displayed to advantage around a mirror; in front of this a marble topped table. But the most interesting thing to us 4 pile of gorgeous quilts, rugs, blankots and bedding of all soris on one sido of the room and reaching well-nigh to the ceiling. Thore were soft woolen biackets, striped white and red, and splendidly woven rugs in fautastic pattorns, making me think of tho relic-hunters whom' I have seon searching Athens to sauisfy their craze for curios and how wild they would bo over this rich display. This, they oxpluwed, was tho girls’ dowry; every stitch of it woven by their own fair hands, * As s00n as theso girls can use a needle thoy bogin to prepare agaiust tho day of their marrisge and spend years em- broidering their wedding gown, even plaiting tho white potticoats or kilts for the coming wan. I saw one of theso maidens at work on this fustanello. It is no child’s play. Countless strips must boe sowed together, and 1t requires twenty yards of cloth, as'it muststand out liko o bailet girl’s skirts, As for tho young man, itseems tu bo taken for granted that o will' be forthcom- ing when the dowry 18 provided, and the poor girl canuot even enjoy weaving' her dreams into her work, as papsaand mamma choose the husband, who may be to her quito a dark horse till the last baliot is taken. We wero t0ld tho history of all the sisters and cousins and aunts and met our host's son-in-law, the viliago schoolmaster. Ho fiuished the gym- nasium in Sparta, but does not know ancient Groek. Our host is not of old Spartan stock, but Arzive by descont, and named ac- cordingly Argites, 1 watchod them make the coffee, 50 unlike ours, very thick and served in tiny cups. Along one side of the kitchen wall was a wooden shelf heaped with loaves of black bread, ono of wuleh wo carried away with us. The suclf bag one living inhavitant—a poor little bare—which bad been caught in one of thewr mountain bunts. I petted it a little, ouly to repent later, when they insisted upon making me & present of it re po in ‘Ninety-¥wo. By tho Kitchon hearth was an Ame sowing machine, and from this aod healths in flowing resinato—we passed to & weavin groom such as Penel- ope might bave wrought in against the day of ner wedding with Odysseus. Hore one of the girls tried to teach me 10 run the bobbin back and forth, a thread at a time, und keop tboe treadle going with my foet. It proved to bo by 1o means 5o simplo as It looked and I mado awkward work of it. ‘They showed us & skein of tho pure raw yellow silk, like spun gold, aud also a bolt of the' most fascivat: 1og silk cloth, 80 delicate aud fine in texturo OMAHA off for our morning can after coffea of | o grove that was once | BEE JULY 10 that one could see throveh it, but so firm as to endure for vears andoyith'the nstural vel low color of the silk. Mich as we coveted the lovi es we did not dave suggost a purchase, for Kyr acres and the village hehfl: all us uveighbors looked up to him; his daughters could weave but to sell—impossible. 1t was like a dream to sen the new Penelone weaving her robe and we had fatn lingeréf in this charmingly uniquo houschold, but at length the deluge moderated a littlo and for ull their kind en- treat®s to spond the night that they might show us how they amisdd themsclves and | dance for us, we took our lingering leave. It was o rich _experiened; this peep into the home life of these simpib sturdy Laconians and one which the tourist very seldom en ! Joys. Returned to Sparta; we found that our visits were not yet ended. Our professor thought it no more than his right that we should stop av his ‘domicile and meet bis good wife, who wasan Athenian and lived accordingly. He proudly showed us library containing a very good selection of Groek, Laun and German works, and en larged upon his_ forthcoming *“Topoeraphy of Sparta,”’ of which wo saw the first sheets, Wo heroically partook of Turkish coffee for the fourth time that day, and this was fol- lowed by another tray foad of sweots and water. ~ Thero was a spoon holder with £poons for each and two jars, one a delicious rich cherry preserve, the othor containing & white paste liko our croam candy, and flavored with mas Now tho siyio in Spurta is to take a spoonful only of each and adrink of tho water, and then leave the spoon in the water glass. But it was so gond that some of us deliberately forgot our etiquetto and went in for more. At length we got away to our inn for a week of rest on our promisé to come back in the evening and meot some of the elite of Sparta. The prospect was alarming, as we had not thought of tho necessity of Swallow-tails or decollete gowns, but Mrs. M. tied a rainbow- colored Arcadian searf arouna her black bodice, which gave her quitea festive air and I folt quite elogant when I had had mv boots scraped of their layers of mud and shined and had brushed two or three inches of mud from my skirt. The consui begged uard to bo lot off, declaring that this social strain would be the doath of him, but his oficial importance and his overworkd classical Greek could not be spared on such a state occasion. In the course of the ovening we unwillingly spoke of our fondness for musio and were interestea to learn that thero 15 no such thing as a piano in Sparta. But musio there was and it was sont for forthwith—one of thoso instrumonts called a melodian, though why so calied I capnot make out! ' Again thero is cail for all Spartan heroism to endure interminable ions of the same monotonous (ireck love ditty. A Spartan Youth, Quite the lion of the ovening was & young Adonis in white kilts, rod leggings and and pointed red shoes. He wore an_embroiderod slecveloss jacket, loose, and showing under- neath folds of a ‘white'linen blouse, and the waist contined by a_broad sash, while on his curly blonde pate was poised with most ar- tistic negligenco a red fez, droopag 1o one sido under the weight of a dashing silk tassie, One wondered 1f ho knew how well it set off bis classical face. As ho posed with one tightly gaitered leg crossed over the other, he was a picture of uncouscious grace and self possession, while his bows would put a New York swell to the blush. Ho proved to bo the brother of our little Penclove, and was longing to go to’that wonderland of wealth and happiness, America; but he was his mother’s darling and sho could not part with him, he said, and ho loved his Iatber- land too well to stay more than & year or two if he went. He has Spartan friends in New York who send him _rose-colored pic- tures of their lite there. Some old lady sug- gests that it is time for him to bo choosing & wifo 1nstoad of dreamiug of America, but ho must first marry off his sistors and do_ his part in preparing them a suflicient dowry ore he can think of “himself. 'I'bat is the rule all over Greecoand n very good oue, too. Ho will please himself aud have the girl he fane AS for his sisters, their parents find their ideal young man’ After they have como to terms and scttted the business de- tails, the elect youth catls at the house with friends and inspocts’ | the unsuspeeling maiden, If she please hif tho wedding fol- lows in short order. ‘Ihgy nssuro us_that these much-tp-be-pitied dreaturos are slways very happy afterward,. for the paronts select discreetly and well. But just imagine our girls submittng to such Infringement of their rights, One chamber at the professor's was most un-Spartan in its luxutious furnishings. Guy Greek rugs for our foet, and bods so immacu- late with brocaded crimson silk coverlets and white silk sheets, that we were quite embar- rassed and were long making up our minds to venture to ruffle them. But sleeincss overcame our scruples and we crept care- fully and softly in, hoping it was all right and no sucrilozo. Our dreams of the glories of aucient Sparta wero undisturbed by any animals whatsoever. Thev seemed to be as shy of this luxury as were we. And so wo slopt the sleep of the blessed, inpreparation for tomorrow’s program, which was to be nothing less than (the gods being progitious) the crossing of Taygetus. Of that undertak- ing and therest of this PPeloponnesian raid another letter must tell the story. WiINIFRED MANATT. - LEAVENWORTI, Mr. J. 1. Moore: My Doar Sir—I have been sutject to sick headacho all my life. Over two years ago | began sing *Moore’s Tree of Life” fo tand never had a case of sick headacho since, oxcopt when the medicine was at ono end of the road and I at tho other. Itis worth more than money to me. 1 heartily recommend it to all sufferors of headache. ~Very truly you W.'B. LiLe, Pastor FPirst Baptist Church, For sale by all druggists. — - CONNUBIALITIES, <, June 15, '90. At some recont weddings the bridesmaids’ bouguets have been nhorseshoas with the nails worked out in contrasting blosso ms. Arthur—Do you like to hear the p opping of those toy pistols, Miss Madge! Madge Yes; anything that pops just tickles me to death. Sue—How did you and Tom Hillow hap pen to got married,” Blancne! Bluncho—We wero both single, you know! *Yos?’ “Well, wo marricd to get even.” J. Malcolm Forbes, the Bostonian, was rried Wednesday to Miss RRose Dabuey in San Diego, Cal. The honeymoon is to be divided between the two cossts. “As Chappie married in haste T sappose ho is now repenting at leisure,’ romarked Snipes. ©s,” said Bailey, “and an elegant loisure it is, too. Tho girl was worth three millions," An iuteresting Boston wedding of Wednos- day was that of Miss Alico Viviau Ames, daughtor of KRev. Charles G. Awes, who performed the ceremony, to Mr. T. Gerald Winter, Among the recent unique methods of con- tracting mateimony was-that of Willlam S, Hughos and Miss Nellig-ifranklin of Sedalin, Mo, They were marriedon a street corner seated in a buggy, How romantic! Hojack (looking up frem his newspaper) Here's auother illustration of the tendency of wealth to combfe. Tomdik—Well? Hojuck—Tho proprictorof o summer hotel has married the daughter of an ice dealer. Well, girls, the first half of leap vear is closed. Rememoor thay. time flies, and that Lhe young man is now easier to capture than when the keen sutumri‘shd winter winas are whistling through his summer suit, Jeunie—So Charlie married a Chicago girl, Was it a church wedding! Daisy—Yes, in- doed. Jennio—How ws #ho dressed? Daisy Ob, she wore the loveliest long rain coat, with rubber boots and ymbrella to taateh, The evgagement ha¥ been announced in New York of Miss Eleanor Duer, second dauchter of J. (i. HuuDuer, to Joseph Laroquo, ir., son of thé' emiwent lawyer of that na Their wedding will take place in the fall, A whiteclorgym an of Newton, L. L., re- cently married oo Moy Tywood, & common Chinese laundryman, to Miss Jennie Picker- ing Clurke of Philadolphia. It is the old story of @ white womun teaching & China- man 1n Sunday school. A provincial newspaper in Austrahia not long siuce coutwinea this adyerusement “A widow, who still posscsses the cntire wardrobe of her deceasod busband, is dis- posed Lo vutor into correspoudence with a suitavle gentleman, if such can be found, with a view to matrimony.” Oue of tue princival” New York social ovents of last weelk was the marriage of Miss Sallio Floyd-Joues, duugbter of the late David 2. Floyd-Jones, who was a member of the assembly and st oue time secretary of state of Now York, to Captain Barosrdiston of Eugland, graudson to the earl of Dart- mouth, Mr. Pullman bas presented his lucky sou- Argites was lord of many | his | il XTEEN P n-law with the Boyd palace in San Rafael, Cal._The house is one of the handsomest on the Pacific const, and has long been the home of John T. Bord, & San Francisco cav- italist. Tho grounds surrounding it are provided, among other attractions, with a fishing pond. One of the first society events of import in Newport this season was the wedding of Miss Catharine Hunt, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Richard M, Hun', to tieutenant Liv- ingston Hunt, whose father was at one time secretary of the navy and at another time American minister to Russia, It took place on Thursday. Jason of old went to Colchis to_steal the golden fleece, and_had to marry Medea, the sorceress, who had helped him to capture the booty. Today the wool of Jason, a colored clergyman in Orane, N. J., is in danger from Miss Adeline Brown, a member of his congregation, who had assistea him in bring- ing’treasures more valuable than gold to his flock. Miss Brown is suiug her pastor for breach of promiso of marringo, On June 28, at Moline, TIl., Fisworth Mapes and his good wifo celebrated the sixty-sixth auniversary of their macriage. Mr. Mapes is and has been for many vears a_justics of the neace in Moline, He will bo 87 years old next September. Mrs, Mapes, who was mar. ried at the age of 17, 1s now 83, They have raised a large famly of children, e The Name Was Deceptive, “You cannot always tell what a thing is by tho name 1t bears,” said Mr, De- pew the other day to a New York Times man. “Some yenrs ago I met an Eng- lishman in London, and our conversa- tion soon touched upon investments in American securities. The Englishman informed me that until a short time be- fore he had several thousand pounds in New York Central and Lake Shore se- curities, ‘but T took my money out of those properties,’ said” he, rein- ‘and vested it in an American railway that T think will pay much better.” ‘May I ask what the new investment i said T. ‘Certainly,’replied my London acquaint- ance. *T'got hold of n prospectus of the New York, Boston & Montreal railway, and I made up my mind that a railway between the three principal cities in America wasabout the best paying thing that you could have.” That railroad continued Mr, Depow, “is now known as the New York & Northern. It has not reached eithor Boston or Montres ot.” Baby's cheel is like a peacn, Isit Madame Ruppert's bleach? No! but baby’s mama's cheelk Volumes to its praise doth speal! Call for Mme. Rupport’'s book, “'llow to be Beautl- fuyl” GAPANESE PLLE CURE consisting of also 1 Box wl, luternal Anew an1 Complote Treatment, spositories, Ointmont In Capsules, and Pills; o Positlve Curo for Eate blind or Blooding ltehing, Chronie, itecent or Hered tary Plles. Tals Re his never been Known to fall. $1por box 6 for $5; sentby mail, Why suffer from this torrible disease whon a writton tao | posittvely glven with G box not cured Send. stamp for wsued by Kuhn & i tlns 5t BTN NERVE Falgla, Head: uleondn or Wakefulness, Montal Dopras sanity, wise Barr ary” Lo lon I thy bhrain Jonth's trontment matorrhe Solf-nbu 1.6 for £, by i Each order for guaranteoto ref only by orner | Wegnnrante Jxer with $ will sond weitten LI not curod. Guarauteo tssuod tosole agent. southast and Farnn Omabin BOVAL MALL STEAMSHIPS, NTREAL anl QUEBEC MON®E “" 0o DERRY and LIVERPOOL CABIN, $45 to 850, Accordiug to steamen and location of Stateroom Intermedinte and Steerage at low ratos. NO CATTLE CAK STATE ALLAN LINE LINE STEAMSIHIPS NEW YORK and GLASGOW. Via Londonderrs, overy Fortnight. July Hth.. STATE OF NEBRASKA .. July zaeh ) ETATE OF CALIFOINIA Aug. 11t STATE OF NEVADA b, 0, ¥econd Cabin §9), Steorax ADDIY L0 ALLAN & CO, Chicaw 118 MOOKEB, 1519 1o watd St “‘Cod bless the Houston Cure Institute,’’tns boen tho honest prayer of many a wife and mother, who has Poen saved from a lifo of want and mis- ery because the husband had taken treatment for the liquor disease at the e e e e e e [nstitute. We want everybody to come who is anxious to be cured of liquor disense, or the opium or tobacco habits, and inves- tigate our plans and methods of treat- ment, There is sunshine and gladness in store for those who take the Houston Cure treatment. For particulars in regard to terms and testimonials, call or write to The Houston Cure Institute, roer 15th aml Howard Sts., Omaha. VOIR S - 18 AT ONCF ARFE Y IHING T YOU. © them exam 1 OF CITARGE) Dy our Optician. and, nry. fitted Wit n palrof our PEIKE YIGLANS S or 8P LiS. Wo fit ICALLY und grind lenses o correct Wil the various dofects of vislon. such ns HYPERMETROPIA (fur sight), MYOPIA nenr “ight), PIESBYOPTA (01d 8ight)) ASTIGMATISM {rrogular sight, ASTILENOPIA (weak sight) DIPLOPIA “ouple sieht), ANISOMETIHOIA oqunl i), STRABISMUS (squint or cross eye), ete, ote: SOLID GOLD SPECTACLES or EYEGLASSES from $3 Upwards. FINE STEE SPECTACLES EYEGLASSES from $1 Upward, COLORED GLASSES for Shading the Eyes from 50¢ Up. MAX MEYER & BRO. GO Practical Opticians. FARNAM and $6th Sts., OMAHA. Established 1866. tned or cune AN ACHING BACK There is no known remedy that equals il 1t 13 not PENETRATING ,.!'.5 "5 improvement o ¢ PLASTER {inary porous vias ters, it is & revoiution in plasters. Wood's is the ouly plast having power to dilate the pores an penetrate 1o the seat of pain, HOLD BY DRUGGISTS BVERYWHEKE N.Y. Depot, g2 William St “Would youknow why with pleasure Qur faces so beam? Our Servants Is the cause of our bliss; For all sorts of cleaning S It ne‘er,comes amiss. MADE ONLY BY N.KFairBaNk & Co. CHicAGO. . POWDER 02S.FOR2HS ABSOLUTELY PURE - JUSTTRY IT. F.FRJAQUES & CO. KANSAS CITY,MO. $6 to $15 per acre. Easy terms. Send stamp {or olr- ular and price st S. H. COLVIN, “ook, Redwillow County, Nebraskns The UNERECEBENTED SUCCESS that the Behr Bros. & Co’s. PIANOS Have attained, and the hizh praise they have clicitel from the world’s MOST RE« NOWNED ARTISTS. from the press and from a public long prejudicod in favor of der makes, itis ,afe o assaome that ey dusteamsat miuit be posissal of UNCOM MON ATTRIBUTES. MAX MEYER & BRO. CO., Sole Agents, Omaha, Nebraska, Established 1866. T * COLLEGE OF THE SACRED HEART DENVER COLORADO. *5,-451 i CONDUCTED BY THE FATH RS 07 THE SOCIETY OF JESUS. This imstitution affords every facility for obtalning a thorough, Classical, Scientific and English Education. Situatea on & beautitul knotl about fifteen minutes ride by electric liue from Denver, It re- colves the full penciic of the healthful and life-giving brevzes that have made Colorado the suniturium of the Unitod States. The crounds cover an upland tract of fifly weres, and the prospect fs one of lukes and mountains und meadows. Especinl attention 1s given to the physis cal devolopement of the students. Catalogies sent freo on application PRUVVLVVUVIVLLDVRLVIVVRVLLVLTLLLLTHLVIOCLVEP HE RIPANS TABULES regulate the stomach, liver and bowels, purify the blood, are pleasant to take, safe and always effectual. A reliable remedy for Biliousncss, Blotches on the TFace, Bright's Discase, Catarih, Colic, Constipation, Chronic Diarrheea, Chronic Liver Trouble, Diabetes, Disordered Stomuch, Dizziness, Dysentery, Dyspepsia, Eczema, Flatulence, Female Complaints, Foul Bry adache, Heartburn, Hives, Jaundice, Kidney Complaints, Liver Troubles, I of Appetite Mental Depression, Naus Nettle Rash, Painful Digestion, Pim- ples, Rush of Blood to the Head, Sallow Com- plexion, Salt Rheum, Scald Head, Scrofula, Sick Headache, Skin Diseases, Sour Stom- ach, Tired Feeling, Torpid Liver, Ulcers, Water Brash and every other symptom or dis- ease that results from impure blood or a failure in the proper performance of their functions by the stomach, liver and intestines. Persons given to over-cating are benefited by taking one tabule after each meal. A continued use of the Ripans Tabules is the surest cure for obstinate constipation. They contain nothing that can be injurious to the most delicate. Price: One gross §2, sample bottle 15 cents. For sale by Druggists, or sent by mail postage paid. Address THE RIPANS CHEMICAL COMPANY, New York, POV DABDAVVVRARVOAAN "SS2S and DrDOWNS 1818 Douglas Street, Omaha, Neb. The eminent speckulist in neryous, chronic, private. blood, skin and annary di rogisterod gre T snadolne, ‘W8 Aiplomas 1A Gurt entes ohodw. 188011 Lrenting with tho gres Catirelr, SpOrmALOIThOCa, (08 B&1N001, SOmILAI Wenknoss. NIKBE 103808, 111 pILUCY, 8YpUIILE. SUFLOLUTO. KO fis Grrhicen. klewt. varicocale. oo NO e Now rocuont for 1o 0f yAal powit, Eariies o "“} VIsIL 16 1Ry b6 (FOR101 AC hOmO by Sorroxpondence. Medicine or lnstraments sont by 1 curely packed, no o indicats contonis or s 0o pursonul snturview proferced. Cons ro0 o arivaty: Took (7l of Lite) sent fros. OMoy boursve. . WY tap £0F Fepiz. DIAMOND BRAND \bh© rabiable Pl for sxle. CHICHESTER'S ENOLICH, RED CROSS NNYROVAL # THE ORIGINAL AND GENUINE. Tlo only Nufe, Bure it for (hicheatar s Kinglish Digmond Hrand 1o Be Fibon, T