The Nonpartisan Leader Newspaper, July 26, 1917, Page 11

PeCH— e ——— RSP o ~ o €N ) OTTON is the most widely - distributed and most uni- versally worn fabric “in the world. The many weaves into which it is wrought are likewise the product of different coun- tries, and each country, almost each great weaving district, has put the im- press of a name, a style of weaving or some other characteristic upon the cotton goods it produces. Many of these names have long since lost their capital letters and are known to the dry goods clerk and the shopper as merely general classifications for dress goods. Some will do the heavi- est service, as the denims or galateas, while others are designed for the dain- tiest of gowns, and work up into crea- tions of fluffiness and softness that make them a rivi and in some in- stances the superior—of silk fer ele- gance. The many kinds of cotton cloth are distinguished chiefly by the weave, but finish and dyeing have a part. Some of the names of cotton fabrics, with a hint as to how they are produced, and wherein lie their differences are given herewith, and serve to show that the making of such things is fully as in- teresting as is “shopping” for them afterward. BIRDS BREAST DOWN FURNISHES A NAME Cotton albatross cloth is a fabric made in imitation of a worsted of the same name. It has a fleecy surface and the name is taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric resembles. Albatross is a plain weave and the goods are finished by being burled, sheared, washed, singed, rinsed, dyed and pressed. The cloth is generally in white, black or solid colors and is not often printed. It is of light weight and used for dress goods. Bastiste is of French origin and is a light, transparent cloth, made from a fine quality of combed cotton yarn. There is a gradual variation in quality ranging from a comparatively coarse to a very fine fabric. The finer grades are used for dress goods and all kinds of lingerie for summer wear, while thé cheaper grades are used for lin- ings. Bedford cord is one of the most popular fabrics, The distinguishing effect of this cloth is a line or cord running lengthwise of the piece. The cloth is made of cotton, (sometimes of worsted) the face effect being gener- ally plain. To get extra weight with- out altering the appearance of the face, extra warp yarns, called “wadding ends,” are inserted between the face weave and the filling, floating at the back of the rib. Bedford cord is dur- able and is used for shirts and suits. CALICO AND ITS DISTINCTIVE POINTS Calico takes its name from Calicut, a city in India where the cloth was first printed. The majority of inexpensive cotton fabrics are constructed on the plain weave and calico is of this class. Most of the designs for calicos and cotton cloth printing are made in Paris, At present the steam styles are the most prominent, They are the fastest and lightest to be obtained. Calico is a printed cloth and is usually in two colors, that is one color for ground and the other for figure. The design is printed on it after the cloth is dyed. After the cloth comes from the loom, it is singed and bleached, sheared and brushed to-take away all the lint, and then sent to the dye house. The fingt process there is to boil it, after- which it is immersed in the dye tub. Calicos are usually given what may be termed a ‘“cheap cotton dye,” which means that the colors are not fast, but will fade when subjected to ‘When the fabric is dyed, it is given to the printer who ornaments the face of the cloth with some design. After printing, the cloth is dried and steam- ed to fix the color, then soaped, wash- ed, finished and folded. The printing machine turns out from 400 to 800 50- yard pieces a day. SOME LIGHT AND HEAVY. FABRICS Cretonne is a heavy cotton cloth printed in large designs for drapery and furniture use. Cretonne was a Frenchman who first made the cloth, water, i Dimity is a light-weight cotton fa- bric and is from a Greek word meaning “two-threaded.” The distinguishing feature of dimity is that the cords or ribs rth warpwise through the cloth. Dimity is a ladies’ summer dress fabric and very dainty. Eolienne is the name_ applied to a fine dress fabric ‘characterized by hav- ing the filling of a much coarser count than the warp, producing a corded ef- fect across the breadth of the goods. This class of goods is woven of a raw silk warp and either cotton or worsted filling. The goods are made up in gray, then dyed in the piece. The darker shades find most favor for fall and winter use, while the lighter shades are preferred for summer wear. The width varies from 27 to 50 inches, plain FarmWoman’s Page . Galatea cloth has been somewhat in demand recently by women requiring serviceable and neat appearing fabrics at a medium price. It is usually fin- ished 27 inches wide and retails at 14 to. 20 cents per yard. It is shown in plain colors as well as in figures. The paterns are obtain- ed by printing. The base of the cloth —that is the fabric previous to dyeing, printing or bleaching—is nothing more than an ordinary sateen of fair quality. Gingham is a single cloth composed entirely of cotton and always with a weave. It is a vard, dyed in stripes or checks and was originally of Indian make. It is the most widely known fabric on the market and is made in various grades. Ginghams are used for dresses and aprons. Edited by Alberta B. Tgner S S S =S Cities and Weaves Contribute Common Shopping Terms Lawn is a light-weight single cloth wash fabric. The name is from Laon, France, where lawn was extensively made. Plain lawn is made of solid white or bleached yarn in both warp and filling. The color effects are pro- duced by prmtmg Lawp when finish- ed, should have a soft smooth feel Lawn has to be handled very care= fully in the bleaching process. It is used principally for summer dresses, sashes and curtains. i Linon is a fine closely woven plain fabric, well known for its excellent wearing and washing qualities. It is made from combed cotton yarns of long-stapled stocks to resemble as closely as possible fine linen fabrics. The cloth structure is firmly made in the loom. Peonies On the Farm / Mr. van Ulisingen’s peony bed in Clay county, Minnesota, where time is found on the farm for more than sordid labor, XPERIMENTING cultivation of peonies have produced many beautiful varieties never dreamed of in former days. The develop- ment of new varieties of peonies is a work that calls for long waiting and much careful and patient effort. A peony does not really become es- tablished until the third year after planting, Many great double varieties will come almost single the first year, and not very good the second year, and do not come really good until the third year after planting. The best time to plant the peony is during the first part of September. By so doing the plant becomes rooted and thoroughly established by the time cold weather sets in. No insect troubles the peony unless it may be the ant which is after the sweet sticky juice that and high A single peony plant “exudes from the ball of the bud. In Ameriea the peony is quite free from any disease. Peonies will do well in almost any soil and when once planted are pretty sure to grow. Origindlly peonies grew wild in the barren soil of the cold Siberian plains. They will grow in any climate where grain will grow. A peony bed recently seen revealed numerous buds and some blossoms. Some of the plants were much smaller than others, owing to separation of roots in early spring. In the bed of 53 plants were found twenty varieties, some of which were late bloomers, Mrs. van Ulisingen is a peony enthu- siast. She has raised peonies not quite 10 years and finds them one of the easiest flowers to care for. In speaking of flowers for the farm home Mrs. van Ulisingen said: “Our children love flowers, and they are greatly interested in every new variety of any flowers. We spend many pleas- ant hours admiring the different colors, shapes and general characterig=- tics. “We are particularly fond of peonies and hope to enlarge our bed from time to time. - Much can be learned by spe- cializing on one shrub or flower with the thought in mind to produce the best of that shrub or flower. An intimate -acquaintance of any flower is time and money well spent.” 2 ADVERTISEMENTS LACK’ FARGO, N. D. When you come in to attend the Fair don’t forget to look up Black’s, the store that keeps the prices down in Fargo, the store that is elimbing to the front by leaps and bounds. We are now undergoing great alterations and remodeling, the front is heing taken out and ete., but the inside of the store —— o =~ 97C ¢1¢, Pul the inside of the store has the most remarkable values in this part of the state. e ——————— 7 % 10 T part of ihe stale ‘WELCOME PAGE TWELVE