The New York Herald Newspaper, August 22, 1873, Page 8

tho 8 NEW YORK HERALD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 22, 1873—TRIPLE SHEET. ‘KANUCKDOM. "Jp +the Central’—Incidents En Route. The “City of All Saints” as a Watering Place. Unparalleled Dulness of the Season. BANQUET HALLS DESERTED. ST. CATHARINES - DESCRIB Its Moral, Religions, Social, Financial and Business Characteristics, THE WELLAND CANAL. —— + — The New “Loup” or Enlarge- ment Thereof. Another Danger to New York Commerce. CANADIAN POLITICS. Bir Allen McHygh Not So Bad as He Is Painted. “Ory OF ALL SAINTS,”? Sr. CATHARINES, Canada, August 10, 1873, It was in a “Wagner” I took a seat a few days since at Albany, en route direct for this place. It Jooked as if this road was doing a thriving passen- ger business, and 1 remarked as-much to the draw- ing room usher, “Sorry to say itis not so,” said Van. ‘the first full train I have had this season,’? “What creates this sudden revival in travel ?” “Boys going to the Buffalo races. A very gen- tlemanly crow4, but nat so blessed fashionable.” “Then the fashionables are not moving north- ‘ward this year ?” . “Not much. There has not been enongh fash lonable or pleasure travel by this road to Niagara #alls or Canada this season as would pay to run @atly a single car for that purpose alone.” BOB, THF PORTER. It is pretty well known that in each of these a@rawingroom cars the most intelligent and best mannered colored men are selected as porters or attendants to wait upon the passengers, serving up tefreshments, and so forth. Robert, or Bob (ior short), Was ourservitor. Desiring a glass of ice water I went to Bob’s private quarters. I thought Thad seen that countenance before. lasked him dis name. “Robert.” “Where from ?? “Maryland.” “Where were you during the war ?”” “In Frederick City.’ “Did you ever drive a gentleman from Frederick €o General Banks’ headquarters, at Darnestown }" “Yes, several times.” “Who was he ?” “A/NEW YORK HERALD correspondent.’? A WAR REMINISCENCE, Yes. It must be the same Bob who had driven me from Frederick City to General Banks’ head- guarters on the Potomac many a time, and a good and faithful driver, then a slave, he was, ex. eepting once. I will now teil the HeraLtp how Bob left the war correspondent in a peculiarly per- plexing predicament on that one occasion. Rumors had been circulated that General Stone who commanded a section of General Bai line ‘would. attempt to cross the Potomac and make a demonstration against the enemy. We were @riving through the woods toward Poolesville (Stone's headquarters) when firing began to be beard. “Do you know this country well, Robert?” “Yes, massa.” “Do you know where that firing comes from?’ “No, massa,” “Then you drive where you hear it the sharp- est.” “Yes, massa.’? Bob drove, and as we galloped along the country people told me that a tremendous fight was going on at Ball’s Bluff (properly Washington Blut), and that the Union troops were being fearfully cut up. Bob gave a full rein and a full lash te our horse, and as we entered Poolesville the dead bodies of many Union troops, with a few of the enemy as prisoners, were being brought in. The mangled remains of the ever-gallant General Baker were already in. Here was business for the war cor- respondent. Directing Bob to keep my horse in a convenient place, I went to work, and after the labor of a couple of Bours or so I made up a hasty but what I believed “This is quite a creditable report of this terrible disaster to | the Union troops. Hastening through mud and passing over the bodies of many a groaning and @ying soldier, fsought Bob and my horse. They Were not here, they were not there. Kverything was in confusion, and Iran the risk several times of having the bayonet of @ guard thrust through my body in my eagerness to find my team. I had finally to avandon the hunt and seek other means to forwata my despatches to the HenaLp, A week or so afterwards I met Bodin Frederick City. “Bob, yeu rascal, why didn’t yeu stick to me at Poolesvilie?” Bob looked a little ashamed for a moment, and then answered, “Why, massa, 1 was worth 100 and I didn’t think you could afford it.” Bob did not then knew that the HERALD would Mave given the price of his freedom if he had not at that time theught so much of his personal value to ais then master. SPEEDING ALONG. Craving the reader's pardon for this diversion, Jet us speed along toward our point of destination. But what is all this great turnout of workmen, dig- ing, spading, shoveiling, hauling gravel aud stone, £ ni sorts 01 farmers’ Wagons and in all sorts of ‘wheelbarrows, along this part of the line o! the Centrat road? at the station in Rome. The Romans were not out at thispoint | suw a couple of pugiletie indiviguais uple o! preparing to cive'ons ‘another [AN PUNCH, there was nothing cular to notice. TI under- stood, however, that Rome is quite an interesting Place for young widows and. ladies Rot antic turn of mind. Theré is, mentioned in this connection, a Rome here that is always on guard to protect the viri ous and uphappy, From Rome we proceed to as- certain whether there is any salt—there always Was plenty of virtue—leitin © SYRACUSE, Syracuse has often, wanted to be the capital of the State, but there seems to be alittle too much capital invested in the new Capitol building at Al- bany for her people to expect to enjoy immediately the luxury of being the centre for the distribution of the official spoils of the Empire State, Syracuse 18 now being run on the VANDERBILT EXTENSION PLAN, which means that its linked sweetness is being long drawn out. That 1s to say, the ining. tables that were wont to be spread near the old shed, miscalied a depot, have been extended a consider- able distance beyond, the cars sweeping past the Vanderbilt House as if they were airaid that the talisman im the name would attract some of the passengers from the twenty minuve gobble at the dining saloon just beyond. At ROCHESTER I found everything dull, and the Genesee Falls, Jamous for Sain Patch’s fatal folly, dry as a chip. ae let me pause @ moment to relate briely a ttle ANTE-BELLUM INCIDENT. Rochester, as your readers are aware, is the resi- dence of the well Known colored orator Fred Doug- lass. In 1860 he was about one of the most im- portant characters on the political stage at that turbulent pertod. It was the fortune of your cor- respondent to visit een van in that year, alter having interviewed most of the prominent states- men of the country at their homes in all sections of country. Douglass, however, was not in the programme, but being here I determined to call upon him. With tnat view, and in company with an English ofticer who bad lost an arm at the battié of Inkermann, the residence of Douglass was visited, He happened nét to be in at the moment, but one of his daughters, who was an ex- cellent pianist by the way, as we had ample oppor- tunity to realize, invited us to be seated until her fatner could be called. In a *short time Douglass entered, aud, after introducing ourselves—our host douptiess being surpueed that @ HERALD repre- sentative should dare td venture across his thresh- old—Deugiass, with much dignity, said :— “Gentlemen, | am glad to see you. But I would like te know whether your intents be wicked or charitable?” Being assured on this point the conversation proceeded, and the whole feid of American politics was traversed, Slavery, of course, was one of the principal themes touched upon. Douglass was de- scribing with his usual intensity and bitterness the horrors of Southern slavery—of which he was once himself a notable victim—when my English companion found an opportunity to interpose the suggestion :— “But you will acknowledge, Mr. Douglass, that there are some slaves in the South who are con- tented with their condition?’ sonaiass, in measured and forcible tones, re- e “No, sir; a slave is never contented. If he has a a@ bad master he wants a better one. If he has a better one he wants the best. Ifhe bas the best he wants to be master of himselt.”” That being a truism which nobody could deny, we shortly alter took our leave, your correspondent to hear afterwards from a railroad conductor— since a millionnaire—that Douglass had said to him, “That New YorK HERALD reporter had better look out how he éalls at the private houses of people or he may get his head broken.” Onward we continued, just tarrying at ALBION long enough to admire its cuffs, which are verdant ae beautiiul, and to hear a Mississippian declare that BEN BUTLER’S BROTHER-IN-LAW would carry the State of Mississippi in spite of all pppoaitions His eyes moistened as he uttged this, ut, using an expletive beginning with the letter “a,” be aflrmed that there was no help for it. (And let me parenthesize here that that is the general seatiment amoug many with gyhom I have conversed with regard to Ben Butléfs influence, not only in beter but in Massachusetts, an in fact all over the Union wherever the federal ad- ministration has patronage.) BETWEEN ALBION AND LOCKPORT, the latter the residence of Santora E. Church—the struugest map, probably, in the democratic party in the State—we skirt the borders of the towuship of Hartiand, from which MORGAN, THE MASONIC RENEGADE, 80 mysteriously disappeared many years ago, and whose disappearance brought into vitality the ; who might be mentioned are the managers of mer- | | | | Specific gravity web rguagbe . ++ 10838 | ‘ 10,000 grains of the water contain :— Carbonate of iron... ‘ 0.5210 | Carbonate of jim 0.0820 Sulphate ot iim “Why, you unfortunate newspaper man, don't | you know that ° VANDERBILT JS LAYING A FOURTH TRACK on the Central’ And you had better believe he is Fr, up the work.’ aarWane does all this mean?” “[t means that the old Commodore is preparing | to have four ve for rs, and two exclusively for ireignt. jo with this matter?’ or course it nas. While the present manage- ment of Erie is learning to ag ECONOMY,’ Ng ES by running the whoie concern on the ch c sluggard pian, the Old Graybeard of the Central is working fixe @ young beaver in getting at least his share of the transportation between tue West and rt.) “But isn’t Canada working in the same direc- yn y’? “You're right. Say what you please abeut those mucks, they are sharp fellows alter all; a little w) DeThaps, bat sieady, and solid when they get fy her notexactly to enlarge the canal itself, make an addition which wul largely increase ied for business,” (But more of this NO PENT-UP UTICA. Being ODiiged to contract our powers, and not aware of any other contract from which “a , ‘thing’ mignt be realize “MAKE ROME HOWL! Vhat is their latest project “TO ENLARGE THE WELLAND CANAL} Lake Shore movement has something | tracks on the Central, two exclusively | , We proceed to @r the scroeohking of our well managed locomotives anti-Masonic party, with the now venerable Thur- low Weed as its leader. There are still residents living in Hartland who remember Morgan, and be- lieve that he still lives in some Joreign quarter or has died a natural death, A Jumping Niagara Falls for the present, we reach he SUSPENSION BRIDGE. Leaving the cars, we prepare to undergo that tn- efavle bore and botheration to purely pleasure travellera—the examination of luggage by Custom House officials, I doubt exceedingly whether the ameunt realized from the seizures of duty-paying goods here pays the salaries of the persons cn- gaged in the service, But it is perhaps best jor the present to let the nuisance go on until times change and circumstances warrant its abatement, 1 was rather amused at the remark of a Western man, in reply to the question whether he had any dutiabdle goods in his baggage. “Dutiable goods! You may examine my bag. gage, Mister, but | guessif you find any goods there that ought to pay a duty it is the duty they owe to @ Washerwomau.”” ON BRITISH SOIL. ° After about an hour’s ride on a very easy-going Toad we ilud ourselves at ST. CATHARINE’S STATION, and, taking an omnibus at hand, we are driven at once to the Welland House, which we understand to be one of the best hotels in the place. DESCRIPTION OF ST. CATHARINES. St. Catharines, which is situated about-twelve miles west of Niagara Falls, is a beautiful young and growing city, of about twelve thousand in- habitants, its location on the banks of the Wel- land Canal proves of great advantage to the busr hess community, as nearly every steamer and ves- sel sailing between the Western lakes and Eastern ports: takes in its supplies here. The delays necessarily occasioned by passing through the locks leading up the mountain afford ample time for not only vessel proprietors and captains doing ali their trading, but also through passengers, male and female, On the steamers, taking a drive to the Falls and other places and purchasing first class outfits in the way of clothing, dresses, jewelry and many other things, all of which are sold flere at about half the prices.asked on the | “other side’ of the river, This large trade, com- bined with that of the hundreds of wealthy | visitors who every Summer crowd the first class hotels, s built up a number of MERCANTILE ESTABLISHMENTS vi York itseli might envy. Such men | Stfuthers, Barr, Thomson, Fowler, Douglas, Monro, Andrews, Boles and many others | cantile establisiments, such as can scarcely be equalled in the Dominion. ® THE HOTELS of which the “City of all Saints” can boastare kept ina superb style. The Willard House, Mr. E. M. Lromley proprietor, is Keptin @ tanner equalled by very few 1 this or any otuer country. Tue bill of fare which 18 laid before the guests o1 this estab- lishment presents a variety and richness that would satisiy the most epicurean Oriental. The Steptienson House, F. Stinson & Co. propri- etors, is an immense Summer hotel, ahd is | generally filled with pleasure and health seekers Iroin all parts of the Continent, many of whom find great relief from the mineral water and baths, jor | Which St. Catharines is famous, Spring Bank is | an extensive private hotel, kept by Dr. Mack, an | eminent physician, whose name is well known in every State of the Union. This fine private hotel is the work of many of the Doctors best years. | He has furnished it in the ricnest and most luxu- rious style, combining all the exceilences and com- 1gyts of the best hotel with the quietness and pleas- ures of home, The mineral and Turkish baths of Spring Bank are taken by people from all parts of the Continent. THE WELLAND HOUSE BATHS. These batus—tor ladies and gentiemen—are sup- plied from an Artesian spring, the chemical prop- | erties of which, as analyzed by a Professor of Toronto University, are as follows:— Chloride ot ¢ eium, Chloride of magnesium Chloride of sodium vs Chloride of potassium lodide of sodium Browide of sodium Total we . eee 616,798 A gentleman going through a course of one of these baths under the manipulations of the Per- sian colored attendant, Dr. Henry A. Wise (so christened in Virginia by the distinguished Gover- | nor Wise, of that State, by whom the Doctor was atone time held in bondage), feels as if he had gathered himself into @ caldron of hot soapin a liquid state—but no soap is used in these baths. nsation to a tolerably healthy trame is rather | pleasant. Besides these there are the Murray | House, named atter the proprietor, Captain James | Murray, @ ongemes. and shipowner, and managed | by Mr. W. Witbeck, @ popular hotel keeper of | many years standing; the Cairns House, kept by Mr. H. Baby; the Peninsula Game-Cluo House, | managed by Mr. John Melvin. All these places are yuanaged im such a manner as to Make St, Cathar. | ines @ mOst Gesirabie place to spend a few wee during vacation, or any other time for that matter. | THE MILLING AND MANUFACTURING INTERESTS | of St. Uatharines are of great and growing im- | portance, prominent among: them being the | Sylvester Cotton Mills, the St. Catharines Paper ‘lls, Collier’s Agricultural Works, Union Fo Stone Foundry, Edgetool Works, Saw Fac | Ojlle’s Foundry, Neelon’s Fiouring Mills, Norris’ Flouring Mills, &c., &c, The water power in this | neighborhoed is the best in America, When the present contracts to lower the canal to the level of Lake Erie are completed ail the water that flows over Niagara Falls will be tributary to the machinery along the Welland Canal, But the largest interest of this city is that of than that of any other Canadian city, except Mon- treal. The magnificent fleets propeliers and sailing vessels owned such men as Neilon, Grabam, Murray, Larkin and other, m' be agource of pride to eve et of this saintly city, shipping keep a large number 0} . SHIPYARDS busy all the vear, [Lenco among these being those of Shickluna, pson, Abbey, and An- crews. The “City of = La ,, Doasts of hree daily re. » J. yer, DrO- prletor of tne Daily Pines, ondene. ts your correspondent Webted for courtesies, The Jowrnal and the News are the names of the other papers. PRINCIPAL MEN of the place are Mayor Colher, formerly of Texas, & courteous, Intelligent and enterprising citizen; J. G. Curne, M. P, P.; J. O. Rykut, MP. P.; T. Re pig Wit gre hig igr H. ©, Barwick, james Nor jeclon, F. Stingo! . . James Murray, R. BH. Smith, 0. Brown, P. Ligier 4 James Douglas, H, Carlisto, J. B. Fowler, J. D. Tait, J. R. Monro, R. Struthers, M. Simpson, L. Shickluna Dr. Comtort, &. THE SCHOOLS here are of a high order. The Collegiate Institute and the public schools are very largely attended, The different religious denominat are well represented, CHURCHES. The Wesleyan Methodists, the Epi Ly Roman Catholics seem to be taking the le: their fine churches are any indication of their. tive strength, WARNING TO THE COMMERCIAL EMPORIUM. Having thus hurriedly ‘done’ the “City of All Saints” (reserving some marginal references for and if the present), let me proceed to you a descri tion of that artifi watercourse, which, with it contemplated addition, ought to attract the atten- tion of our commercial Solons of the New York Chamber of Commerce and other mercantile bodies, if they wish the “Commercial Emporium” to retain its prestige as the first commercial city on the Continent. THE WELLAND CANAL (PROPER) is twenty-seven miles in length, and connects Lakes Erie and Ontario, ‘and affords uninterrupted navi- gation from Lakes Erie, Huron, Michigan and su- perior to tide water at Montreal. DIMENSIONS OF LOCKS, The locks on the Welland Canal are 140 feet in length and 26 feet 6 inches in width, with a uni- form depth of water of not less than 10 feet on the mitre cills, The gates are of wood and generally worked by hand or manual labor, TONNAGE OF VESSELS, The largest class of vessels passing through this canal will carry about 600 tons, and some of the sailing vessels carry 19,000 bushels of wheat at ten feet draugut of water. The propellers carry from 11,000 to 17,000 bushels of wheat and other freight in proportion. WATER SUPPLY. The canal is supplied with water from the Grand River. Adam has been constructed on the river at the town of Dunville, thereby raising the water to the summit level and feeding the canal ina northerly and southerly direction or causing a fall from the feeder to Lakes Erie and Ontario. HARBORS.” The harbors are Port Colborne and Port Dal- housie. Port Colborne is situated at the southern entrance of the canal on Lake Erie, eighteen miles west of Buffalo, and hasa depth of twelve feet of water rock bottom, and will moor apout seventy- five vessels. Port Dalhousie ts situated at ihe northern entrance of the canal on Lake Ontario, has about twelve feet of water and will moor about one hundred canal sized vessels, ’ THE NEW SHIP CANAL, The new canal, or ‘“loup,’”’ as it is sometimes ed, now under contract, is to be built and com- pleted in four years, and will shorten the distance of the present canal about 1 mile, or make the en- tire length of the new ship canal! 25% miles, ‘There are to be 14 locks gp the new canal, with an average lit of 15 feet. ‘The canal is to be ted direct trom Lake Erie, The locks are to be 275 feet in iength, 45 feet in width, with about 13 feet of water on tie meter cills, The gates are to be worked by water power and the jaost approved machinery. The 8 to be 100 feet wide at the bottom, the banks having the necess: slopes, and vessels"and lake craft of 5,500 tons burden will easily pass through it in twelve hours, Messrs, Cairns, Morse, Hart & Co. (mostly Americans), have, | understand, large contracts for the work, and have already commenced business, ‘They are also ut present at work on the feeder of the Wel- Jand Canal, where their “plants,” or dredging ma- chines, are doing good service. Ina recent exca- vation & CURIOUS AND EXTENSIVE DEPOSIT OF CLAY was found, apparently unusually free from “grit,’? und, consequently, worthy of experimenting npon to-ascertain whether it is not pecultarly adapted to the manufacture of aluminum, or clay-metul—a valuable, but rather rare article of commerce in consequence of the cost of its preparation. The de- posit in the W d Canal feeder 1s ound more or less for a distance of twenty-one miles, THE FASHIONABLE SEASON in the “City of All Saints” has been a dead failure, like most allo! the Canada watering places. At this time, when the “dog star” rages and hydro- phobta 1s by no means rare, the hotels in this place are usually crowded with visitors, But to-day their dining rooms and aver rooms exhibit the sad spectacle of “banquet halls deserted.” It ought to be a good season jer melons about here, the landlords exmbit such a melancholic spirit. THE OMNIBUSES come and go from the depot with scarcely the ghost of a passenger. No Saratoga, no human trunks. It 1s easy ror the horses, but it is hard upon the hotel people. THE WATERS AND BATHS of St. Catharines bave their different estimate made by ditterent people. Some think they have a good efiect upon their systems, but others say they can perceive nothing beneficial in them. One gentleman, a high judiciat authority in Welland, pronounces them a “humoug’’—that with a peck by “Boston rock salt”? unless he intended to refer to some of *‘Acorn’s”’ celebrated ‘fattic’) and a tew old nails, any one could make a bath equal in its qualities to the medicated baths of St. Catharines. ‘This gentleman miglit, however, have been somewhat prejudiced, ‘There is A PLEASANT RIDE : from here to the ola Canadiab town of Niagara, at the mouth of Niagara River, where it empties into Lake Ontario, and opposite the American Fort. Niagara. The town was once the mart of trade on this side, but sinve business has been transterred above and to St. Catharines, the old town has languished, its inhabitaygts have departed and the houses, or the most of them, are so. dilapidated that they might be expected to fall to pieces at any moment. There is, however, a very fine Sum- mer hotel at this beautiful point, called THE QUEEN’S KOYAL HOTEL, a branch of the hotel of the same name at Toronto, It is conducted by Captain Dick, a well-known \ake captain and a distant relative of the renowned Dr. Dick, of Scientific Dictionary fame. Here, too, is a dearth of visitors, and it was rather significant to hear a pretty young lady who had been | playing crequet say to one of qur party, “Do please send us up some young gentlemen. There are enough ladies here now. We want gentiemen.” The ride from St. Catharines to Niagara town ts about twelve miles, and the return drive would make tt rather ted{ous were tt not ,or Tom Brown's (not the Erie man) half-way hostelry. Captain Brown was in very good humor, notwithstanding he had just returned from the Buffalo races, where, he said, the New York boys “wert through him” most beautifully, He is the great horse man of the neighborhood. SYMPATHY FOR SIR HUGH ALLAN. Ifind in St. Catharines considerable sympath, expressed for the Canadian Oakes Ames, Sir Hugh Allan. Still, there are others—some gentlemen from Hamilton, for example—who, although per- sonally friendly to Sir Hugh, deplore his mistake, The Chicago informer, McMulitn, 1s, however, um- versally eXecrated, and some want to know what is the use of having a Suspension Bridge if that rosy old gentieman, Sherif Woodrufl, should not be required to exercise his official functions in the case of such fellows. It ts generally understood that means will be taken to screen the high gov- ernment officials from complicity in the business; and yet some are confident that the whole nefa- rions proceeding will result eventually in turning out the present Ministry, body and boots, A COSTLY MASONIC PRESENTATION, At a recent meeting of Baldwin Chapter, No. 17, Royal Arch Masons, of Newton, N. J., the chapter ‘was presented with a rich andjcostly High Priest's breastplate by the organizer of the chapter, M. E. Israel Baldwin, Past Grand High Priest of the Grand Royal Chapter of New Jersey, now a resi- dent of Newark. The breastplate cost $2,500 and 1s of white corded silk, ten inches square, em-, broidered in green and gold and set with twelve recious stones, emblematical of the twelve tribes of israel. It is very handsomely decorated and is suspended by a heavy goi ; the stones are set in gold sockets. In the *Cyclopwdia of Masonry” iv is thus described:—"A splendid piece of orna- mental embroidered cloth, of the same material of which the ephod was made, ten inclies square, and worn by the Jewish High Priest on his breast, when dressed in full sacerdotal vesiments, ‘The front was set with tweive precious stones, in golden sockets, in four rows, three in each row, on arranged each of which was engraved the name of one of the twelve tribes of Israci. On the first row a sardius, red, for Judah; a topaz, pale green, for Issachar; an emeraid, green, tor Zebulon; on the second row a carbuncle, tor Reuben; a Bapphire, deep blue, for Simeon ; jasper, green clouded with’ white, for Gad: on the thir row, @ ligure, dull red, ior Eparaim; an agate, gray, spotved with digerent colors, for Manasseh; an amethyst, purple, for Benjamin; on the fourth Tow @ chrysolite, pale green, for Dan; an onyx, blueish white, for Asher; a beryl, blueish’green, 1or Naphtali, The breastplate was double, or com- posed of two pieces, forming a kind of purse or * bag, in which, according to the rned rabbis, the Crim and Thummin fight of Truth) were in- closed. It was fastened at the four cornerst; hose at the top to each shoulder, and a golden ring at the end of a wreathed chain; those below, to | the girdie of the ephod, by four biue ribbons, two | at ¢ ch corner, This ornament was never to be 8 d from the priestly garments, and it was called the ‘Memorial,’ petng designed to remind the priest how dear those tribes should be to him Whose names he bore upon his heart. It was also named ‘the Breastplate of Judgment,’ because it was believed that by it Was discovered the judg- ment and the Will of God, or because the High Priest who wore it Was revered as the fouptain of justice, and put it on when he exercised lus judi- SHIPPING. ‘The tonnage owned by St. Catharines js Jarger cial capacity ia matterg of great Uuportance Which coucerned the pation,’ of Boston rock salt (1 don’t know what he meant | FRENCH SUMMER RESORTS. A Series of Norman Watering Place Letters by E. C. Grenville Murray---No. 7. TROUVILLE AND HONFLEUR. Henry V. of England Worshipping Bare- footed After the Capture of Honfienr. GAMBLING AND DONKEY RIDING, TEOUVILLE AND HONFLEUR, July 21, 1873. Trouville is a planet surrounded by a number of maritime [patellites—Villers, Houlgate, Benzeval and Cahourg to west and Honfleur to the east. ‘This last is & deceptive place, to which you hurry respectfully because of its 10,000 inhabitants, and desert with alacrity because of the dulness of these 10,000, There are several ways of getting there: first by train, which is the slowest route, by reason of the V which the line of rail desoribes, going from Trouville to Pont V’Evéque twenty miles south, and from Pont PEvéque upwards with 6 stoppage at every station; next by diligence, which takes two hours; then by donkey, whjch is faster than diligence, if you can only procure a donkey who loves exercise; then, again, by boat, which offers good practice to people who want to get used to sea sickness; and, lastly, by foot, which is said to be the quickest route of all, though I have not tried it. T went by diligence, and was honored by the com- pany ofa French poodle, who climbed up to the Impé¢riale with his master, 8 sportsman on the look out for seagulls, and howled at objects of interest along the road. The sportsman wore a suit of vel- veteens, leather gaiters up to his hips, anda white jockey cap like an apple pudding. He told me he had commanded a corps of sharpshootens during the war and had been taken prisoner; but when the revanche came it would be a different story, for he and many other patriots were schooling themselves to be unerring marksmen—saying which he suddenly raised his double-barrel, and, in Is sitting posture, covered two passing sparrows with agool and deadly aim, fired and missed them both. The driver, who had been pensively chew- ing @ quid in front of us, gave a start which almost shot him on to the lean backs of his team, and he remonstrated; but the sportsman aflirmed that going off a rolling coach was excel- lent practice, and then gave us a story about the last train which entered Paris before the siege. He was on that train, and passing a company of Prussians ten miles outside Paris, thrust his head out of the window and discharged six shots into thetr midst with his revolver. But be had scarcely achieved this valiant exploit when, to the horror of himself and his fellow passengers, a battery of artillerymen were discried bringing a fleld piece to bear upon a curve in the line which the train would have to pass. ‘It was amin- ute fuil of emotion, as the train neared the curve, but the Prussians aimed too high, so that the sporte- man lived to narrate his lucky escape, thank- fully wagging his apple-pudding cap in acknowl. edgment. Honfleur, like Dieppe and La Souques, is- a town that has seen betterdays; but is now so outpaced by Havre on the one side and Trouville on the other that there are no very satisfactory reasons why it should exist at all, Looked at from the sea it promises well, for its houses nestle together in tiers and reflect the sun’s rays bravely frem their pink roofs; ‘but poetry vanishes when you find yourself in a maze of crooked streets perfumed with red herring, and paved, as though for the sins of its inhabitants, With gritty stones in shape like cones. There are agood many English residents here, come as usual, I presume, for the “specially healthy climate of Honfleur,” and not at all for the cheapness. One portion of them maybe seen on the Cours d’Orleans, the pretty avenue on the route to Caen, | sporting the year before last’s Clapham fashions and well treighted with old sensation nevels from the local circulating library. As to the other por. tion I can scarcely imagine how they manage to fill up their time put, judging from the supremely haughty countenance of a shabby Briton I saw emerging {rom a small café, 1 shoald say this one, at least, passed his days in reflecting on tue amaz- ing honor he was doing ‘these miserable French- men in locating himself among them. There is nothing like holding a good opinion of oneself; it makes bread taste sweeter. ROBERT THE DEVIL'S CHAPEL. Passing the port, with it’s stacks of Norwegian timber and its Meet of fat brigs laden with pota- toes for the English market, I made my way to- ward the hill of Notre Dame de Grace, which shelters the town to the west, and whereon stands a votive chapet. It was once the custom for the crews of vessels which had escaped dangers at sea to make @ pilgrimage hither in their shirts, barefootea and beheaded; but police regulations have run athwart this iaudable practice, and ptous sailors must now be content to climb the hill on their knees, I regret to hear that they mostly delegate this duty te their wives, for women climbers are ina majority of nine to one over the men; but let us hope there is nothing true in the rumor which ascribes this to the circumstance that ladies can more east!y pad their knees undetected than can the other sex. ‘Ihe chapel is jull of little ex-voto ships hang from the ceiling, and the verger who served me as ide pointed out one which had originally en of pure gold, but changed unaccountably to brass at a date dimicult to specify. This was altogether a grievous busi- ness, though the explanation I deterentially sug- gested was that some pilgrim had admired the gold ship unduly auc acted on the precept that ex- change was norobvery. The Verger preferred the idea of diabolical interference, and reminded me that the chapel was built by Robert the Devil (Father to William the Conqueror), which sufficed to account for any number or sorts of ,unpieasant- nesses. “HAVE YOU MANY PILGRIMS ?? Tinquired. “Yes, a vast number,” said he, “and if you go into the Hotel de la Kenaissance, opposite, ou may see a young lady who came up on her Knees but an hour ago; she was ninety minutes about it.” I crossed over to the hotel which is almost opposite the chapel, bu did not see the young lady, for they told me she was lying down exhansted in one of the rooms set apart for piigrims who do not trifle with penance. Some of these arrive at the hilltop ina Fttable plight, and it seems the young lady in mestion Was Ohe of them. I have witnessed too much of the charlatanry of religion in my own country not to feel somet deeper than a com. mon admiration for piety ich is sincere, and I would gindy have met this young pilgrim on my way, go as to lilt my Mat to her and dq no age to that faigh which, however quaint in its manifestations, is ‘none the less touching and worth worlds of scepticiem, CLASSIC GROUND. The piece of table land on which the chapel and hotel stands offers a fine landscape, whicu I enjoyed in silence while an artist was sketching it ina high wind and shouting to his easel to stand steady. Down the hill, which is ar’ and stony, though bordered with trees, 1 passed a Norman fisner-girl, tripping barefooted with a hamper of mussels on her head, and so into the town again lay my route, Probably tew Englishmen roam here without recollecting that the whole country for miles around is classic ground, which their ancestors trod and spoiled, aud which good Shakespeare has made famous. Henry V. (not the sedate and corpulent eld gentleman who may soon be King of France) pitched his tent on this very ligrim’s hill, with Warwick, Talbot, Shrewsbury, joucester and hundreds of those sturdy yeomen whose cloth yard shafts could pineven a mailed knight to his saddie. Then, not many miles to the east of Honfleur fourishes, or rather vegetates, Harfleur, pow @ Village of 1,500 inhabitants, but once the finest port of Western Normandy, and which it took the above-named Henry forty days to besiege and carry by storm. When at last he had cut is way in he cast off his tron Hoots and stalked with naked legs to church to say prayers, after which he turned 8,000 French hduseholders out of their doors and put Englishmen in the stead. If Henry had lived in the present age of ogress he would have found no houses for his Biiowers, but only smouldering heaps, for the town would have been shelled trom without and possibly burned by petroleum from within—a fact which teaches us once more to be grateful for the blessings we possess and never to envy the bar- barity of our forbears, But let that pass. I reached the foot of the hill murmuring the words of Henry’s Harfleur specch :— In peace there's: nothing so becomes a man As modest stiliness and humility, J Being at peace wisn the world, agd willing like the Irishm: to ment ony I mar Eee tl who would look queer, though, if offered su: in Paris, One of these that we have been g jing upon = matter, a pearl-gray- dis- graced being who firat proclaimed that the world spun round—that is, a dangerous innovator, to be cegmenee with a coo! and careful eye and not to be tolerated at any price. a RIDE IN THE RAIN, Solreturned to Trouville by diligence and was this time alone on the Imperiale, if alone it can be called to have Hig 4 in my pocket a volume of Miss sncneray “Olid Kensington” and to be charmed with its gentle, woman): Rhilosophy all the way. I have not yet mentioned that, gs ry by Trouville was really d to its present status . Sardieh, its earlier steps were guided Alexandre Dumas thirty years ago. ‘Thacke- ray’s novel reminds me of my omissions and also sreneae a D vriney between the literary genius int has descended hereditaruy in these two ies of Dumas and Thackeray. Perhaps read- ers of “Old Kensington” and “L’Homme-Femme” will agree that the younger Dumas has not the best of it iu toils paraliel, and it might well be wished for his sake that his literary legacy had consisted, as in Migs Thackeray's case, of the purer and nobler part of his jather’s genius, instead of the tawdriest half of it. I did not submit these re- flections to the diligence coachman because his mind seemed to be imbued rather witn meteo- rological than authorlike speculations, and he twice are that it was ing to which 1 lid, sure enough, before jad time to repeat a third warning. Soon the cream-colored and pear!- gray donkeys from Trouville scampered past us at a alloy; saunterers trom the cliffs, the sands, the fields, flocked towards the high road through the downpoyr, and the diligence was made to stand and receive, out of Christian charity (not to the horses), a third more than its proper load of pas- sengers. My book was periorce closed, and I shared the Impériale with four moist souls, one of them an _ officer from the Havre gar- rison, who professed to love a shower of bullets better than this finnikin rain. The French are always grand in their preferences; but they never have umbrellas. You may observe this either in town or country. An umbrella is cumbersome and to some extent a costly institu. tion, for it is atways getting lost, and the Frencn have no liking either tor eh encumber or things which go Astray, and have to be replaced at asacrifice of temper und money. That is why they are always gesting wet, but being aningenious Beurie they avoid the reproach of improvidence by poking fun at us Englishmen for continually carry- ing umbrellas, the which, they remark, isa seif- condemnatory precaution, evidencing the total ab- sence of sunshine 1n our islands, “This must remind you of London weather,” observed one, asl arrived at the hotel. “Well, no; it was reminding me of Norman weather,” was my ly. “Ah, no, that won’t do,” he answered, ‘France only gets the overflowings of English rains, When you are drenched through out thexe you s2nd the rest to us,”’ HIGH PLAY AT THE CASINO, If that be so the overflowings were abundant this alternoon, for they prevented my going to see the historicat Chateau de Lassay, as T intended, and I spent the time till dinner in being assured by jegitimist members of the Assembly that the raai- cals had been only scotched after the Commune and wanted killing outright before things could be made pleasant all round. Dinner ‘over, the casino remainea; but there wag no ball this even- ing—only high play ip the card room. ‘Two French stockbrokers sat fown, and with great in- trepidity lost 100 shillings between them. ‘Then one of the Rothschilds supervened, along with an English peer and two or three Americans, all of whoin began backing the players witli one hundred dollar notes, to the evident stupefaction of these Frenchmen, who con- tinued to play, nevertheless, as it all the money staked, upon them was theirs, with a great deal more besides. ‘Presently a boutlotte table was made up and the Frenchmen, fairly carried away by the sight of notes piled high as sandwich heaps, began fumbling rather excitedly in their pockets. I lett them at that critical juncture and went off to a@ private party. to hear snatches of the new operetta which Offenbach is to bring out at the Varietés in December. It treats of Persians, of course, but, like Mr. Carlyle and many other great men, has no title as yet. E. OC. GRENVILLE MURRAY. WATERING PLACE NOTES, The next Chief Justice is at Long Branch. Brick Pomeroy is at Schooley’s Mountain; N. J. Saratoga Springs is to have two horse railroads next Summer, There are five fine hotels at Lake Mahopac, Put- namcounty,N.Y. . Over five hundred visitors arrived at Saratoga Springs on Tuesday last. Admiral David D. Porter has taken rooms at the Kearsarge House, North Conway, N. H. Rear Admiral James Alden, United States Navy,e is at the Grand Union Hotel, Saratoga. Mat Brennan, the Sherif, went on a straw ride from Gregory's Hotel, Lake Mahopac, last week. The Union Hotel is the headquarters of all the. democratic politicians that visit Saratoga Springs. Governor Sprague, of Rhode Island, was among the first who erected cottages at Martha’s Vine- yard, There are 354 cottages tor Summer residents at Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard, and eight first class hotels. The breaking up of the encampment of the ca- dets will be celebrated at West Point on the 28th inst. by a grand hop, Several Brooklyx gentlemen have bought lots on Spring avenue, near the "xcelsior Springs, at Saratoga, for the purpose of erecting cottages. Rev, Matthew Hale Smitn is at the Union Hotel, Saratoga, Mr. Smith has given up sensational Breaching and become a newspaper corre- spondent, The recent rain storms has had the effect of dampening the ardor of many of the sojourners at the various watering places, and home is the word, Mrs. A. M. Winslow, of Putney, Vt., who 1s now at Saratoga, made her first visit to the Springs in 1814, The only hotel in the place at that time was constructed of logs. It is expected that General Grant will review the troeps of the Second brigade of New Jersey, which are now encamped at Cape May, to-day. The brigade numbers nearly two thousand men. North Conway, N. H., is honored with the pres- ence of W. H. Tiffany, Robert -Hoe, the *lightming press manufacturer and family; Mrs. W. F. Have- meyer, H.C. Havemeyer and Rev. Dr. Robinson, of the Memorial church, and family; all of this city. . The following are the names of tne various springs at Saratoga:—Congress, Putnam, High Rock, Excelsior, Eureka, White Sulphur, Geyser, Glacter, Triton, Commbia, Hathorn, Hamilton, Pa- vilion, Seltzer,-Star, Empire and Old Red. The waters of the Congress, Empire, High Rock and Geyser are bottled extensively and sent to all parts of the country. The waters of the Star spring is put up in barrels and sent away. Among the late arrivals at Saratoga Springs are Dr. George B. Loring, of Boston; ex-Mayor Richard S, Wallach, ef Washington, D. C.; General W. W. Burns, United States Army, and family; ex- Mayor ©. Godfrey Gunther, of New York; ex- Speaker of the United States House of Representa- tives Galusha A. Grow, of Pennsylvania; Colonel Audenreid, of General Sherman’s staff; Jordan L. Mott, the iron foundry man, and wife, of Mott Haven, N. Y. THE HOLY LAND. American Science in Solid and Usefal Application—Pedestrianism at Sacred Places=Turkish Progress, Lonpon, August 9, 1873. The Oriental Topographical Corps of New York, during their recent explorations in Palestine, in-. troduced @ system df forest tree planting among the people Wuich promises to result in the setting Out of several hundred thousand trees annually. Mr. George May Powell, of the expedition, in order to prove that pedestrianism is practicable for geological and botanical surveys in that climate, made the journey from Jerusalem by way of Nazareth and Mount Carmel to Mount Lebanon on foot in midsummer in twenty-four hours less than the usual horseback time. Americans recently arrived from the Holy Land say that Keamil Pasha, the new Governor General of Palestine, is a progressive Man and speaks several foreign languages, RACING IN ENGLAND. - THE BRIGHTON MEETING The Brighton Stakes—Mr. Savile Successful with Lilian—The Brighton Cap-Mr. Savile ‘Wins It with Ublan—Overthrow of the Goodwood Cup Horse, Flageo- let-M. Lefevre’s Liberality— Admiral Rous—Iliness of Baron Bothschild. Lonpon, August 7, 1873, ‘The second week of the “Sussex fortnight,” a¢ sporting folks leve to call it, is now in progress; and perhaps the period is the most enjoyable of the racing year. I have already described the first ‘week, which is wholly devoted to the Goodwood meeting, lasting over four days. The second is oc- cupied with the Brighton ana Lewes gatherings, the former extending over Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, while the latter takes up Friday and Saturday and brings the “iortnight” to a close, During this period the great majority of those who take an interest im the turf or {oliow it as a liveli- hood reside at one or other of the many seaside towns that dot the coast of Sussex; but Brighton, the “queen of Bnglish watering places,” receives by far the largest amount of patronage. Whata change has come over it since it attracted the no- tiee of the Prince of Wales, “the first gentleman im Europe,” afterwards His Most Gracious Majesty George the Fourth! When he built his famous pavilion in the Old Steyne Brignton was @ comparatively unimportant bei with a little ing and very few visitors during pp! he Summer months. Now, itis “London, supers ,? witha resident population of 90,000 Ral represent them in Pariiamen: nificent in ti two gen en to Its parade is one of the most mi world, and many of its streets an Bynares almost: rival those oi the metropolis, while its equipages at this peridd are so brilliant and so numerous ag to recall | Hyde Park in the height of the season. The rank and wealth of Engiand fill its lodging, houses and its enormous hotels, and its a and its piers and its aquarium are dui nigntly crowded. The racing is held ona BEAUTIFUL STRETCH OF THE DOWNS, overponing the town and affording a fine prospect of the English Channel. The straight run-in, abou! three-quarters of a mule, crowns one-of the hile closest to Brighton. Opposite: to this there is another hill, and the two join at the top of a long and deep valley, which Spelt out to the sea, ant which is now waving wit! iden corn and wheat, ‘and refreshing the eye with its patches of green crops, Most of the races _ be; at th head of the valley, at the junction of the two or farther down the straight and nearer the stand, Witn respect tothe two chief contests o! the meeting, however, the Brighton Stakes and the Brighton Cup, the case is different. The horses en- gaged in the former, distance one mile and three-, quarters, start at the top of the valley, run round @ loop, return to the place whence they were sent off, and then dash down the straight to the win- ning post. The cup candidates, on the other hand, are despatched right on the other side of the valley opposite the grand stand, so far away that they can hardly be seen with the naked eye, and run right round the valiey, that is by way of its head, to the winning chair, thus completing the journey of two miles. There was, as usual, & LARGE AND BRILLIANT COMPANY, and, as the weather was beautiful, the sport was thoroughly enjoyed. Among those present was the: gallant Admiral Rous, who has not yet quite recov- ered from the severe accident to his ankle which he met witha lew weeks ago, but whois able to move about much more treely than he did at Good- wood last week, when he had to be wheeled in & by and There was some talk at the meeting. oft SERIOUS ILLNESS OF BARON ROTHSCHILD, who, by no means, recovers so rapidly a8 was expected, and with Tepes to whom some ominous rumours are afloat. He his suffering from diabetes, which has completeiy prostrated him, so that he has been quite upable to play any persoual part im the sport of which he is s0fond—though that ts, in itself, no great hardship, for his horses have almost invariably been beaten of late. The grand stand was filied with @ great assemblage of the country gentry and tne éliteof the visitors to Brighton and the ground on the other side of the track was iully occupied with carriages, though in most instances their room would have been better than their compauy, for the ladies who hired them were not of the most respectable. The following is summary of the ‘THE BRIGHTON STAKES. WVientrtter of 15 sovs. each, 10 forfeit, and 6 only if declared, with 100 added; winners extra; the second received 50 sovs. out 0! the stakes, New course (one mile and three-quar- ters). 34 subs, 24 of whom declared. Mr. Saville’s b. f Lilian, by Wingrave— Lady Blanche, 4 years, 119 ibs. (Maidimeni).... Baron Rotchschild’s £., by Y. Melbourne—Hippia, 8 years, 107 lbs. (HuXtable).............. Mr.G. Herring’s b. Beco a 6 Bettin (taken) s, to 2against Hippia By, ‘ainot L’Orient (taken) ; 100 to 15 against Proto lartyr (taken); 7 to i against May Bell colt taken), ! They were sent off s the very first attempt to an excellent start, of which, however, Idulla got slightly the best and went off in front just in ad- vance of the Hippia filly. The latter took the lead as goon as they had settled down to their work, her attendants_being Idalia and the May Bell colt, with L’Orient and Lilian next and Proto Martyr last of all. The May Bell colt took the second place after they had gone a quarter of a mile, and when. he joined the Hippia filly the pace, which had hitherto been very slow, was considerably im- proved. The pair raced along, head and head, for some distance in front of the fleid, which gradu- | ally closed up as they went round the loop. Com- ing down the hill for the straight, the May Bell colt headed the Hippia filly for a moment, but when fairly in the line for home he had had enough o1 it and began to retire, Lilian then took the second pate while Proto Martyr got nearer to her than ie had hitherto been. Lillan bided her time untik they reached the distance, when she dashed up to the pion filly so full of running that long odds were offered on her. Baron Rothschiid’s repre- sentative made a desperate effort to overhaul her, but it was of no avail, and co! -@way with the greatest ease she won by two lengths. All the others were pulling up, dead beaten, and L’Orient ained the third piace on sufferance. Time, 3:21%. here was CONSIDERABLE BAD FERLING at the result of the race, and various inuendos were thrown out against the running of 5 Savile’s horses, The conduct of this gentleman in sending Cremorne to the post for the Goodwood Cup when the gallant horse was manifestly unfit to run did not alittle to abate the popularity which he has hitherto pany auaey enjoyed, and the ine: running of Lilian did not tend to restore te favor. On Friday last the mare run for the Visitors’ Plate at Goodwood, and, though nicely handi- capped, was so easily beaten that it appeared im- possible she could win the Brighton Stakes, but that Cpe et was by no means believed in, as may be judged from the fact that she now started first favorite, 1t may be remembered that another of Mr. Savile’s horses (Uhlan) beat the Hippia filly for the Goodwood Stakes last week, and Baron Rothschild’s luck in ranning second twice in suc- cession to the same rival must be considered hard. The most important race of the meeting was the Brighton Cup, of which the following a sum- mary :— Tie BRIOHTON Cur, & piece of plate, value 300 sovs., added to a sweepstakes of 10 sovs. each, for three-year-olds and upwards; bk bd for age; win- ners extra; the second received 60 sovs. and the third 25 sovs, out of the stakes. The old course, about two miles. 16 subs. against (taken) ; 6 toL Mr. Savile’s br. c. Uhlan, by The ‘La Mé- chante, 4 years, 124 Ibs. Fwatdment eee Lefevre’s ch. c. Flageolet, 3 years, 118 lbs. Mr, Brayley’s bh. ‘Mornington, 6 years, 130 ‘ibs, (Fordham) 5 Betting at the 7 to4 against Uhlan (taken) ; 8 to 1 again rT mn (taken) ; 50 to 1 it any other (offered) ueen’s Scholar, Who Was started to make run- ning for Ublan, was the first off, and was soon half a@ dozen lengths in front of Mr. Savile’s horse, be- hind whom came Fiageolet, Mornington and Indian. Ocean, adout two lengths separating each from the one behind him. indian Ocean was hopelessly beaten after going hal’ a mile, and at the same time Uhlan begin to close up with Queen's Scholar, whom he reached at the mile post. From this pany the pair came down the hill side by side, ’s Scholar was done with as they rounded. home and Uhlan held a clear lead of Flageolet and Mornington Into the dip, where the latcer was “settled.” The race soon became & match between the two favorites, but, despite his own ificent exertions and the splendid riding of Fordham, Fiageoiet was unable to get up, and, intense excitement, was beaten by & neck; Mornington a bad third, "Time, 3:35%. Tue result was a prone disappointment to M. Lefevr who, alter Flageotet’s success in the Goodws Cup last week, wyen be beat Favonius and Cre- morne, made certain of adding this to the ether trophy; but the performance of his horse, who was in receipt of only six pounds for the year from a fine “stayer’ like Uhlan, must be considered & remarkably good one. Uhlan, though not @ ar: class horse, is without doubt one of the best stayers of the time, for he has won in succession such races as the Ascot Stakes, the Goodwood Stakes aud the Brighton Cup, all over long courses, |. Lefevre, TO REWARD THE SERVICES of Jennings, his trainer, and Fordham, his jockey, is about to present them with duplicates—the one of the Goodwood Cup, won by Flageolet, and the other of the Chesteyiield Cup, won hy Drummond,