The New York Herald Newspaper, August 12, 1873, Page 5

FRENCH SUMMER RESORTS. Watering Place Letters by E. C. Grenville Murray---No. 2. Lively Sketches of Charm- ing Treport. TRerort, July 15, 1873, Toame over from Dieppe this morning on an ¢x- wursion to Iréport, which Is @ watering place for | those who want rest, and who, of course, get much Jess of it here than they would inalarge town. These quiet bathing retreats remind me of those perfectly tranquil streets where every sound of art wheels, dog barking, organ grinding and child equalling breaks on the ear like a trumpet through the keyhole. The only quiet streets are those where carriages roar the whole day long and @rown all other noises; and a quiet watering place ts one which contains so many people intent on their own enjoymenta that the eccentricity of a truant individual, woo wishes to amuse himself in his own way or not to amuse himself at all, may pass unnoticed, A man can lead a hermit’s life in LONDON, PARIS, DIEPPE OR BRIGHTON; I defy him to have asingle hour he can call his own in such a place as Worthing or Tréport, where every new arrival is looked upon as a fresh candle mercifully sent by Providence to lighten the gen- eral darkness, Ihave a friend here who 1s bound by treaty to deliver a play in three acts to the manager of the Gymnase in the first week of Octo- er, and he has been telling me his lamentable Odyssey all the afternoon. He arrived here on the Ist of the month, intending to give himself ninety clear days, but he had no sooner unwrapped his portmanteau than he was waited upon by the Mayor, with an invitation to a banquei; by a rusti- cating bishop, who called with his blessing and a subscription list; by a deputation of visitors, who felt sure he would help them organize some private theatricals and write a few charades for them, and by the local editor, who scaled his staircase three steps atatime and flourisied before him a par? graph announcing his expected arrival and hailing all mankind to hurry to Tréport and see him, The result is, my young iriend has not written a line of bis play, though hehas racked his head awry over charade, for as usual the theatricais are to serve acharitable end—perhaps a free gift of curling tongs to negroes—and it is so difficult to refuse curling a nigger’s hair, ifyou are exhorted to this ‘Kind act by 4 BEVY OF PRETTY FRENCHWOMEN, with eyes like damsons. A man necd not be a popular playwright, however, to undergo that Species of social martyrdom which consistsin being drawn and quartered by contending factions on the hunt for something to do. In towns like Tréport the Mayor 1s infallbly at logger- heads with the parish priest, and you must take aside in this tmportant dispute, which involves the question as to whether the Municipal Council, being mostly intidels, had a right to reject a vote for supplying the church beadle with @ new swal- low-tail coat, lt is painful to think that one can- not back out of this debate by suggesting that Church and State should each pay for half of the eoat; but such a recommendation would be viewed 4m a@ censorious spirit, as evidencing a tortuous mind, prone to deal Mippantly with religious sub- fects. Besides, the Juge de Paix bas put his finger into the pie, whereupon the wife of the district Tax Receiver—who has also dipped into the pie, but on the opposite side of the disi—declares that the Judge’s wife has a false tooth; so that after this if you are caught talking to this lady it is quite clear you hold to the belief that the Receiver’s wife uses Persian hair dye—a base imputation which you ought to be ashamed of yourself for countenancing. 1 say nothing of the scheme set on foot for building a museum of shell fish, nor of the virulent contro- versy as to whether the facade of the edifice ghould be of the Corinthian or Doric order; for communities with smali means are always building something, and itis guite natural they shouid try to compass their money’s worth by having a good fignt about the architecture. I also pass over the delicate topic of a projected donkey race and the exasperated discussions as to who was responsi- bie for its falling through; but it js not 80 easy to pass over THE POLITICS, though, to be sure, if you carefully abetain from saying a word in disparagement of the Count de Chambord, and keep a cautious tongue when men- tioning the Bonapartes, and observe a wise pru- dence in alluding to the Orleans princes, and never on any account criticise MacMahon, Thiers or Gambetta, you may just manage to offend no- ‘body in particular and be classed by all parties in- Aistinctly as a simpleton. But to return to my start from Dieppe. A dill- gence leaves for Tréport three times a day, and takes you the fifteen miles in about three hours ‘and for three francs, no extra charge for the jolt- ing. The driver wears ablue blouse and tries to Trighten himself and passengers into the delusion that he hasarestive team to deal with, for he screams “Hue!” and ‘‘Youcement !” to his three gaunt horses, who lave no need for such remon- strance to refrain from bolting with the diligence, which resembles an omnibus turned dropsical. A coupé (‘orany one or two travellers who care to sit alone and enjoy an unbroken view of the horses’ knotted tails) cuts of the front of the diligence from the body, and @ similar belve- ere above goes by the name of impériale and is resorted to by wayfarera who like plenty of dust and hot air whie journeying, There are no seats beside the coachman, so that worthy, who likes talking with the sitters in the impériale, has to conduct the conversation with his head screwed sover his shoulder as if he had a crick in the neck. But he is not a jovial soul and reminds you in no ‘wise of , AN ENGLISH STAGE OOACHMAN, ‘whose talk and laugh are buoyant and fresh as Bealthy weather. French officials, by the way, never are jovial while exercising their functions, and a diligence ariver with the mail bags behind him not only considers himself an oficial, but feels it incumbent upon him to make his dignity felt, lest heediess folk should forget it. Sohe emits his opinions in an oracular strain, talks of the crops ‘on the road as if he had planted them ail himself, Dut felt doubtful of their success by reason of nature not having consulted him before regu- lating her rain supply. He expectorates tobacco juice at duly marked intervala in the discourse, nd rolls his quid from one cheek to the other ‘when he wants time to consider a dubicus point, <At the scraggy post inn, where we stop to change horses, he is a man to accept a glass of red wine, ‘but is too proud to make any hints for such reiresh- ment; neither will he, like an Englishman, nod briefly and say, “’Ere’s to your ’elth, sir!” put simply fingers his cap condescendingly and mumbles, ‘<4 la votre /” The road irom Dieppe to ‘Tréport is like most French roads, ciean, straight, Mat and dreary veyona expression. There are no turns, no hedgerows, no moss-grown cottages or ivy-clad churches nestling amid copses of woodland and cool grass lawns. The land is cut up into small strips, over-cultivated by pauper peasant proprietors, and the cottages in ‘which these dull bodies vegetate are of a uniform pattern—white walls and pink tiles having such a remarkable look that one fancies a stout kick ‘would be able to stave in the whole fabric like a doll’s house. One lengs for a thatch, a village may- Pole, a creaking signboard with some quaint in- scription, a milestone bearing tokens of age, or a bark, with ita ancient manor house, to remind you that France did not spring into birth yesterday, But, long as you may, you don’t get these things, tor you are in a country where the morselling of Property has been pushed to such length that every man is forced to keep up a firm tussle with the earth {for bare, subsistence. Land is too precious to be wasted for sport or ornament, so the inus have no rose gardens, but cabbage beds, growing right up to the back door; NEW YORK HERALD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 1873—TRIPLE SHEET, cackling ducks, contented pigs and kite-fying urchins, {8 a thing unknown and undesired. On the other hand, the fact is brought home to you at every step that a paternal government watches over all, sees all and puts every village into a suit of uniform institutions just like the next village and the village furtiier on, The milestones and signposts are of one pattern throughout France— _prim_jron. affairs, painted blue, with white letters, like the plaféd af the corners of Parisian streets; and every mairie is like another Mair{e, both as to the oMcial notices posted on its door and a to jts outward aspect. Local traditions, customs and architecture having been brought to such a dead level that if you were to drop a Freuch peasant out ofa balloon a hundred miles away from his | home it would take him 9 juarter of an hovr to discover that he wag hot in his own village. Aguin, | you need not expect to meet with any such ro- mantic incident as a pretty face on the road, PRETTY FACES have become, like all other things in this pinched country, articles of trade and export. Mawk-eyed women from Paris regularly scour the French villages to recruit pretty girls for the ballet corps of large city theatres and also for foreign cities— St. Petersburg, Moscow, Copenhagen ana Kio Janeiro being four of the places that bid highest. As those who are not pretty are simply shorn of their hair for the chignon trade, and they are 80 well content to part with that which women ofa less enlightened age considered their chict orna- ment that a peasant girl thinks it somehow a dis- grace not to wear that short, ciose-fitting cap which denotes that she has parted with her locks for a forty franc piece. Some heads of hair— bright golden, for instance, and abundant silver white—fetch much more than forty francs, and an old innkeeper told me with mixed feelings of satis- faction and pride that his wife, who was past sixty, had sold all her hair for 125 francs a month ago. In despite of all this my friend, the conserva- tive General, who has come over to Tréport with me, kept on exclaiming at every moment, “ Quelle prosperité! Que ces braves gens sont laborieux ! Quel exemple pour le maudit peuple de Paris!” We got out of the diligence at TWO MILES FROM TREPORT, and branched off to Eu in a gig which was waiting to convey us to the country house of a gentleman who had bidden us to breakfast, The ancestors of this gentleman owned twenty square miles of country; but twoof them were beheaded 1n 1793 for the greater glory of fraternal principles; their lands were confiscated and their castle razed to the ground, after being handsomely plundered by an enthusiastic peasantry. For all this our host maintains the reputation of being a haughty and bloated aristocrat because he wrings a revenue of something like eight hundred pounds @ year from what he has been enabled to buy back of his avital domain, and he 1s haunted by the idea that some new agrarian revolution may return and strip him once again, The General tried to reassure him, but evidently felt but half sure himself, “for,” sald he, ‘until we have suppressed all radical newspapers and stump orators a man’s coat and hat are the only goods he may feel secure of, un- less, inaeed, they may happen to be new, in which cage he can feel no more sure of them than of his fieids, After luncheon we drove to the Chatcau @’Eu, which used to be the favorite country seat of Louis Philippe and is now being returnished anew for the Count of Paris, a:ter being wninhabited for twenty years. It is a pretty place enough, and af- forded us the first glimpse of picturesque scenery we had beheld since starting—that is, picturesque in my eyes, for, I repeat, the General’s notions of the picturesque are derived from a chessboard, and consist of felds,mapped out in equal sizes, and de- voted to the growth of corn and potatoes alter- nately, At Ku we gave a gardener a crown picce to take us over the grounds and show us the spot where THE NOBLE HOUSe OF GUISB held thetr treagonable councils during the six. teenth century, when the castle belonged to them and was the stronghold of the League. An iron railing, with an inscription, rails oif the propitious spot, and aman who should be tempted to climb in and conspire too, out of respect for the memories of the place, would risk shedding his blood then and then on the spikes. After this we, called on the Maire of Eu, who rules over a borough of 4,000 souls, and wanted us to stay to dinner and watch the trial of a new fire engine, which bas been exciting the town for the past twelve months. But we were due at Tréport and so bent our steps to the Gygne Hotel, where our gig horse was enjoying himself with some beans. All the praise that applies to city hotels in France does not extend to country imns nor to the hotels of small towns, These cut ® sorry figure beside the sinall, cozey imna of England, or even beside the alberghi of Italy and the posadas of Spain, when these last are not too strongly garrisoned witi fleas. The landlord of the Cygne—a fat, mournful man—looked as if he were only waiting for a stranger to sheer him to the quick and so revenge himself for the total and persistent absence of customers, which leaves him, his wife and three servants as solitary inside their hostel as five peas ina caldron. However, I may be doing the man wrong, for he was anxious that our horse should have no stint of the beans, and if the said horse seemed as anxious to be off as we were it is probably because equine, like human, nature is ungrateful the whole world over, An hour’s drive brought us to Tréport, and we alighted at the Hotel de l'Europe towards three, that ts, in time to do many sensible things before dinner. Thus we, looked up my dramatic friend and ‘walked with (built in the fourteenth century) to the church, whose beadle wants @ new swailow-tail, We ad- mired @ market cross where PROTESTANTS’ EARS were cropped in the good days of old, and their town hall, which has hidden itself under a vault like a wine cellar, and is remarkable for having been used as a temporary prison for forty Norman noblemen during the Reign of Terror. ‘These ill- conditioned forty refusing to come out and be be- headed near the market cross, as one would have thought they would have been too happy to do had they been imbued in the least degree with the love of progress, had to be smoked eut with pans of sul- phur. Asit was, they kicked and struggied unbe- comingly as they emerged, sneezing, one by one, and their execution was by no means an easy business, and consequently reflected the utmost credit on the revolutionists, who had the patience to carry it to a tri- umphant conclusion, Twenty minutes devoted to saunter down Tréport’s main street, a half hour to stroll on the beach in thesweet company of little gray crabs who wriggle as crookedly as if their waiking education had been undertaken by vabinet politicians, then @n hour at the Casino over absinthe and a cigar, and so to dinner at the table @hote of the Hotel de i'Europe, where a fiery little Frenchwoman in @ mauve dress asks us whether it is likely she should be descended froma tadpole, a toad and a baboon, as MM. Darwin and Littré do certily? There is @ croquet lawn at the Casino, and after coffee we adjourn there. The ittle Frenchwoman in manve sends a ball through four loops in succession, at which the dramatist remarks that the tadpole, the toad and the baboon would certainly be proud of her if they came back to life. The little mauve woman answers that she has heard of toads living @ theusand years, if they once got caked in @ stone; and the dramatist answers yes, that he lately found @ toad so caked and has kept him ever since with the highest rever- ence as being possibly one of the early founders of his dynasty. BURNING THE MIDNIGHT O11, I am writing this at midnight in a room ove looking the sea, and four French fishermen are busy hauling down @ smack over the shingle to catch the full tide. Naturally they sing as they tug, and their valorous voices float through my open window :— urir pour la-a-a patrie-ie-te, est le sort le plus beau, le pius digne d’envie-te-ie! 1 am half tempted to go down and ask them why they did not indulge their patriotic wish to die for their country, since they must have had so many Opportunities for so doing. But probably they would think the joke a poor one, besides, their boat is already launched and they are off over the sad sea Waves to molest the soles, mackerel and whit- ing, whose descendants, on the Darwin theory may become fishers of soles and even fiaheis of men Sb p common, with Ite horde Of bigging gorse, . DW tigir Iyry, him up a flight of a hundred ana twenty steps | BREEZES FROM TUB SEA. Business and Politics by the Sad Sea Waves. Mayor Havemeyer Exciting Envy at the Branch. Lona Branon, August 9, 1873, People who come to Long Branch for the Sum- mer season have a character differing from that of persons at other watering places, Long Branch is simply the country residence of city people—a& pocket edition of New York by the senside, At other fashionable Summer resorts the vislors shake the dust of the metropolis from their feet, leave business behind them, forget all that is going on in the counting house, the bank or the street, almost abjure the newspapers, and turn their 1inds wholly to recreation, Here we are simply & suburb of New York; indeed, Long Branch ought to be annexed, and, for the matter of that, 80 ought all New Jersey, tothe Empire State. Here we have the H&RALD at our doors before we are out cf bed, and business men, who go backwards and forwards to the city every day, at less fatigue and with very little more consumption of time than when passing between their uptown resi- dences and theit downtown oftices, bring back with them every evening all the current gossip and excitement of the metropolis, The Board of Brokers is well represented on the plazzas o! the hotels every night, and one hears stock discussions mingling with the sound of the breakers, and quo- tations keeping time with the music of the bands, Gold is ag much discussed as moirés, brocatels and point lace, and fractious ite as much attention as frills and furbetows, The atiairs of the city of New York claim their full attention, and as many of the city oficials, numerous members of the re- form associations, a few of the old Tammanyites— the last of the Mohicans—and any number of spec- Uiative politicians are here, the municipal batties that have been raging in the city all day are fought over again on the beach every night. MYSTERIOUS MOVEMENTS OF AN OULOGENARIAN. The mysterious movements of the yenerabie Mayor of New York have naturaily excited much comment and speculation, Nearly every day one hears a whisper on the balconies that Mr, Have- meyer is actually at Long Branch, Now he is at the West End; again, he is at the Ocean; then he is at Howland’s, among the respectabill- ties; and suddenly we are assured that he is at the Mansion, among the ‘voys.”? Several times I have been told, on che best authority, that the Mayor haa actually arrived at the Metropolitan; but inquiry has in all cases been met by the same information:—Mr. Havemeyer is not here at present, but rooms have been bespoken for him, and he will take possession of them in a day or two.” About six or eight days ago the Mayor was actually here. He came at last, and carried with him a large, respectable looking satchel, which might have contained the names o reiorm appli- cauts for office or might have held sutticient ward- robe to accommodate its venerable owuer fora week. Mayor Havemeyer went to the Mansion House, drove for an hour or so, took dinner, walked to the beach to look at the batherse—the ladies’ cos- tumes attracting his most earnest attention—re- turned to the hotel for his satchel, and took pas- sage on the six o'clock train for New York, HAVEMEYER ON THE WING, Now, if Mr. Haveineyer had been as young as he was +ixty or seventy years ago this day trip to the sea shore would have occasioned no comment or surprise. But what object could have indueed a gentieman with the weight o: nearly a century upon his shoulders and heavily handicapped with the cares of office to undertake the exertion of this flying visit to Long Branch? All sorts of stories grew out of his simgular conduct. According to one account he had left in the morning for the Branch on a sudden Mspiration, intending to spend few days here, and had been peremptorily re- called by Comptroller Green, who did noi choose to trust him so long away trom his leading strings. Another rumor was that as soon as tue Mayor arrived here he was seized upon by a famous reformer, who insisted upon taking him to the West End Hotel and quarcering him with Van Nort, Strahan and Blumenthal, in order that these gentlemen might convince him of the folly of be- Ing any longer controlled by the Comptrolier, and that the Mayor had fled in terror, not feeling cer- tain that the reformer aforesaid would not place an injunction upon him fo prevent him trom prcapine. Some insisted tuat the Mayor, following the advice Of the HERALD, liad come down to Tang, Branch to drink in with the sea air useful draughts of wisdom and liberality, and that benefiting from the in- fuence of the ocean breeze more suddenly than he anticipated, he had rushed back to New York, eager to shake eff the load of Comptroiler Green, make his peace with Commissioner Van Nort, compro- mise with the Aldermen, and adopt in the iuture a policy Of progress and liberaiity. However this may. be, I may state here tliat the Mayor has be- come convinced that tie management of the tinan- cial affairs of New York is not of a character bene- ficial to the qyekiee or calculated to advance the interests or the city, and that it 1s his intention to spend a few Gays here next week for the pur- of talking matters over with some members of the city government and others who desire to see our present unfortunate municipal complica- tions brought to a close, THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, Grand Scenes at High Altitudes—Glories of the Great Hills of New Hampshire. To THE EDITOR OF THE HERALD:— NortH Conway, August 5, 1873, Why ts there so little White Mountain travel this Summer? This is the question oftenest upon the lips of the Summer tourist mm this delightful region. The question may be variously answered, but without doubt the two controjling causes are the Boston fire and the European travelling mania with which so many thousands of our countrymen and women have been attacked. As regards tho first cause, it cannot be denied tnat Boston's quota of pleasure seekersamong the “White Hills” is wonderfully smaller than for many years past, and it cannot but be attributed to tne devastating fire that snatche 1 so much wealth from the pockets of her citizens. As to the European travel, it is also @ fact that the number of those who hav either already sailed, or are intending soon to do 80, is greater by thousands than during any previous year. This fact has crippled American pleasure travel in a marked degree, and with it the pockets of angry hotel proprietors, whose lips were involuntarily smack- ing at the very thought of large receipts and heavy profits. One thing, however, is morally certain— travel through the White Mountains must always be great, and although for temporary causes it may be less during some years than others, still the unrivalled attractions of this locality will always cali together myriads of those who delight in the beauties and wonders of nature as here so strikingly exhibited. The season at this place— “the Gate of the White Mountains”—is not yet at its height, nor will it be for several days, Still the hotels are rapidly filling up, as well as the numer- ous private boarding houses, and in a week hun- dreds more will have arrived and filled the places which are so eagerly awaiting their coming. The gayeties of the season also will soon commence. The proprietors of the Kearsarge House propose before long to give a grand masquerade ball, to which the guests of the hotels and the guests of many boarding houses are invited, Then the whirl of gayety will have fairly com- menced, and if any perchance come here for other reasons than those which Nature offers they will have abundant opportunity to accomplish their en AS muchas the beauties of North Conway have been praised in literature, they can scarcely be uverestiinated, The mountain views are of sur- ‘andeur, the drives reveal new beauties rn, the air is beautiful and inv! ting, and the sunsets golden paintings trom Nature's richest colors. If you think that under the inspira- tion of @ moment I have accorded more his locality, listen to Starr King 8a “The distinction of North Conway is that it is @ large natural poem in landscape, a pd oad from Arcadia, or burb of Paradise. nd then the sunsets of North wea Coleridge asked Mont Blanc if he bad ‘a charm to stay the morning star in his steep course,’ tt is time for some poet to put the question to those Lond stag elm-sprinkled acrea that bor- der the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish aad Italian bloom, Nay, it 18 not Italian, for the basis of its beauty is pure bide, and the skies of Italy are not nearly 80 blue as those of New England, One sees more clear sky in light Summer weeks im Conway, probably, than in the compass of an Italian year.” This tells but halt the truth, No Janguage can over- rate the bewitching glories of a North Conway sunset, nor be too liberal tn accordiug un- lumited praise to the bewuties of its moun. tain views. It is the favorite resort of New Eugiand artists, and many of them may daily be seen by the sequestered waterialls, the shady giens, and in the presence of the monarch mountains themselves, fliling their port- folios with studies for development in their Winter studios, When the cola weather shall have driven them from their delightful mountain haunts. To this poe also resort the lawyer, the statesman, the min- ster, the politician, the business man, the nature worshipper—tm short, every stripe and class of so- ciety has here its representative, Formerly, be- fore railroad communication was opened with the ontajde world, the society was more exclusive and more select{ Dow itis monthly and yearly becom- ing more cosmopolitan, Bad is tone has thus un- derone a complete revolution. North Conway is pre-eminently & mountain vil- lage. Situated on an ample piateau, overiooking the lovely intervals of the Saco river, it is sur- rounded on every side by lofty mountains, On the Cast is a range of hills, the larget of which Is Middle Mountain, while a little to the north, Kear- Sarge looms abvve all other mountains in the im- mediate ricthity, epg by its elevation claims for it- Sell the lordship of the other hills, The Ascent of this Mountgin is by no means dificult, and richly repayg the traveller for the slight fatigue he will éXpérience in visiting its summit, The view from the top is especially tine, The surrounding moun- tains, both near and at a distance, seem jumbled together by nature in a promiscuous mass, and, as some tower above others, the various shades and shadows caused by the raya of the setting sun seem ‘ypical ol the glories of heaven, ‘he White Mountain range proper, throughout its whole extent, is plainly visi bie, Mount Wash- ington rising in their midst with all the power and grandeur of @ mighty monarch. ‘The smaller hills, which in some places below obstruct the view, are lost sight o1, and remain almost unnoticed in their pigmy stature far, far below, To the southeast we see Portland, with the intervening land compara- tively Jevel, while charming Sebago Lake, Lore- well’s Pond and many other expanses of water serve to diversify the Keene and render it one of surpassing beauty. In the foreground we easily identify Chocorua, one of the most singularly con- structed mountains in New Hampshire, while in the same direction Mote and Middle Mountains can also be seen very distinctly, The eye can trace the course Of the Saco nearly from its source until it bends off into Maine, and lends the greater flow of its waters to add to the beautitul mountain scenery of that State, But in what language can a8 seen from the summit of Kearsarge? I will not attempt it. At North Conway they said it was the flucat oi the Summer, Then what was it on Kear- sarge When the sinking sun lit up the mountains and streams, the hills and valleys, for scores upon Scores of tiles around, casting shades of exquisite beauty upon the diferent peaks, and tinting the clouds with wonderiul hues, first of gold and then of purple! At such a time one can inore fully ap- preciate the beautiiul words of Ruskin when be Says that “the mountains of the earth are its natu. ral cathedrals or natural aitars, overlaid with gold and bright with broidered work of flowers, and witit their clouds resting on them as the smoke of a continual sacrifice.” To see and tully appreciate the glories of a sunset one must come to the noun- tains, where the delicately tinted sky reveals untold beauties to the eyes of those whose pleasure itis to detect them. We need not go to taly jor sunsets and clear skies, Our own country can always equal and often surpass them. It is principally to English writers that we are indebted for all this rhapsodical praise of Italian sunsets, and it is very natural that vhey should be profuse in their praise; tor, living as they do amid almost continual (oss and cloads, they cannot fail to ap- preciate the beauties of Italian skies and suusets when it 18 their privilege to see them. The places of interest about North Conway are many, and combine all of the more prominent ele- of natural scenery. Artist’s Falls 8 pi jue in the extreme, and its surroundings as beautiful as the falls themselves. Plunging over rocks through a romantic little glen, surrounded on all sides by the richest verdure, it serves well to remind us of some of Scott's wonderiul penciliings of Scottish scenery. Echo Lake is another spot oi rare beauty, Its per- fect stillness, combined with its mirror-like clear- Ness and beautiul surroundings, combine to make it one of the most charming places to visit in the whole neighborhood, The steep cli#s known as “The Ledges” are also another prominent feature in North Conway scenery, hey extend along the mountain side ‘or four or five miles, and vary in height trom one to eight hundred teet, Under one of these clits is a wild spot known as “The Cathe- dral,’’ the wails of which, rising about eighty feet and gradually inclining outward, form a magnifi- cent arch, with a@ roof of solid granite. A little Dorth of tie Cathedral is “Diana’s Bath,” one of the most picturesque places abont North Conway. It has to be seen to be apprecia‘ed, for no descrip- tion can convey an idea of its beauties, The ap proach is by a beautifully wooded path, leading to a slightly inclined table ‘of granite, over which the water flows, forming numerous rivulets and minia- ture falls. Ascending the stream still jurther, we soon discover a beautiful fall about ten feet in height, while above and below this numerous holes or basins in the rock are found, formed by the action of the water. It is from one of the largest of these—about ten leet in d'ameter—that the place derives its name. Filled with water of rare purity and transparency, it is exactly the place that any goddess, ancient or modern, would naturally select as her bathing place. And thus T might continne to speak of other beauties about Conway, but the principal ones must suflice. Enough has been said to give a general though inadequate idea of what may be seen and enjoyed in this locaiity, and fastidious indeed must be the taste of that person who cannot contentedly feast his eyes, his mind and his mmagination upon the natural attractions of this charming neighbornood. Conway, five miles south of North Conway, is a place much frequented by the Summer tourist, although the surroundings can only feebly com- pare with those of its northern neighbor. Its hotels and boarding houses, however, are fast filling up, and the best of these, the Conway House, has already @ large nuiber of guests, Indeed, the whoie country around seems to swarm with Sum- mer boarders, most every house having trom two to twenty of them, TENT. ‘ou describe & sunset WATERING PLACE NOTES. Mt vcidg bls General A. Torbert, Consul General at Havana, is at Cape May. General (Confederate) Hood is at the Alleghany Springs in Virginia. Chevalier N. M. Montmoremeni, of Italy, is at the Grand Hotel, Saratoga. Charles 8, Spencer and wife, of this city, are at Congress Hall, Saratoga, Nine of the Newark (N. J.) ministers are enjoy- ing themselves at Summer resorts, Ex-Goyernor William Bigler, of Pennsylvania, 1s at the Grand Hotel, Saratoga Springs, Hon. Reverdy Johnson, of Baltimore, makes the Grand Union Hotel, at Saratoga, his home, There are a number of prominent New Orleans gentlemen spending the Summer at Saratoga. United States Senator Oliver P. Morton, of In- diana, 18 snuffing the sea breeze at Watch Hill, R. I. Ex-Governor Randolph, of New Jersey, is at the White Sulphur Springs in Greenbriar county, W, Va. H. 8. Livingston, of the firmof Fox & Livings- ton, of this clty, has purchased a villa site at New- port. ‘The bathers at Long Branch say it is not pleasant to be knocked down in the surf by the carcase ofa dead horse, Bishop Littlejohn and family aro spending the Summer at an out-of-the-way place in New Jersey called Pompton. Governor Henry D. Cook, of the District of Colum- bia, has left Washington for Cape May, where he will remain for a short time, Coney Isiand on @ warm aiternoon leoks like a beehive. There are quite a number of Summer boarders at the different hotels, Judge Henry E. Davies, of this city, it seems, cannot keep away from Saratoga Springs. He is now quartered at the Grand Union Hotel. Grace Greenwood says she was forced to pay $2 for the privilege of washing ner face at the Clifton House, Niagara Falls, on the Canada side, A young lady at Saratoga 1s writing a novel to be entitied “The Folly of Fashion at Watering Places.” It will contain, it Is sald, some real characters, Sixty cottages, to cost $1,000 each, are to be erected on speculation at Ocean Beach, on Shark River., N. J. Another watering place in embryo. Mosquitoes, like the hotel keepers, are present- ing their bills without any compunctions of con- science or feeling at tie various Summer resorts in New Jersey, Congress Park, the only one in Saratoga, is closed at seven o'clock, and all persons who are found in- | side the palings at that hour are shooed owt, The hotel proprietors should remedy this. The Newport Mercury says:—“A correspondent ofthe New YoRK HERALD has ‘done Newport’ a8 thoroughly as Stanley did Africa, He has gone into the interior of it, and we hope our authorities will listen to his suggestions in regard to Levin street and other locaiuties, If they do we shall have to thank the Heratp ior the sanitary measures it bas taken in bebalf of our city,” SUICIDE BY TAKING POISON, Coroner Keenan yesterday morning received in- formation that & man named Junke, a German waiter, had been found dead in bed at his boarding house, NO. 50 Essex street, under circumstances which induced the belies that he had taken his own life. Under the bed where deceased lay was a tum- bier containing @ small quantity of Paris green, Doubtless deceased had drank off most of the pvison, and placing the tumbier under the bed lay uown to die, Deceased was out of employment, and had been in bad heaith tor some time. He seemed to have no relations or nds to take charge of he body, Ap inquest will be held, ‘that ATTEMPTED MURDER AND SUICIDE —-+—__ A Young Man Tries to Kill His Employer and Then to Kill Himselt ——__ HOW THE DOUBLE DEED WAS DONE. —_+____ A Ball in the Employer’s Head and Another in the Would-Be Murderer’s Side—A Tragic Scene in a Cigar Manufactory—A Fam- “fly Seeret—The Woundod Men as They Lie in Hospital—The Coroner at the Bedsides. Yesterday morning, about a quarter to eight o'clock, Ephraim Stembhardt, twenty-one years of age, residing at 360 West Twenty-second street, shot Samuel Schonlank, a man about forty-four years of age, who resides at 362 East Fifty-sixth street, wounding him badly in the head, and then shot himself in the left breast, inflicting a wound will probably prove fatal, the attempted murder and suicide occurring on the third floor of 58 Vesey street, occupied by George and Benjamin Steinhardt, brothers, and Samuel Schonlank, the victim of Ephraim, as a cigar manufactory, THE WOULD-BE MURDERER, Ephraim Steinhardt, was not a member of the firm, but was employed as one of the hands, his brothers being partners with Schonlank, Ephraim had been only about two months at work here, he hay- ing been previously engaged in business in the South, When he became an employé of the firm he knew nothing about cigar making, and Mr. Schon- lank undertook to teach him. His proficiency at the trade was rapid, and on last Friday this was acknowledged by Mr. Schonlank telling his part- ners that Ephraim was now entitled to full wages, the same as the other employés were getting. On Friday last also some little quarrel occurred be- tween Ephraim and Schonlank about some peculiar method of making a cigar, but the words that passed between the two had not much of angry signifl- cance, and it was aiter this conversation that Schon- lank recommended his partners to advance the wages. Since Friday afternoon Ephraim had not turned up at work until yesterday morning, when it was noticed that he appeared in the workshop nearly an hour earlier thau had been his custom. The frm employ a number of hands and some thirty or forty workmen were in the shop yester- day morning before eight o'clock, with two of the work girls, Catherine Sweeny and Mary Ann Arm- strong. Mr. Schonlank had also been settling into work and was arranging some picces to give out to the workmen, and the two other partners had just come to the office, which is on one ofthe floors underneath, PREPARATORY TO THE CRIME. When Ephraim entered, it was noticed by the giris that something appeared to be wrong with him, and one ofthem made the remark that he looked as if he had been drinking the night before. | He sat down and soon stood up again, then walked around the room, and for some minutes re- peated this sitting down and standing up aguin, until his singular behavior attracted the continued attention of the girls, While walking up and down the room he weuld put his hand to his head, as if he were in some trouble of mind, and ina general way conducted himself asif thre was something of serious moment disturbing him, All this the girls and some of the workmen noticed, but of course none of them ever anticipated such a dire result to this mental agitation as that which speedily followed. One of the girls thinks she once overheard him say, while walking about the room, that he “would have satisfaction,” but with whom, or when, or how, he did not say, so far as the girl heard. Nor did he show towards Mr. Schonlank any particular attention ducing these wandering movements, nor had he done s0 on entering the room at first, for he saluted Schou- lank in the usual way and the = saluta- tion was returned, Once he went over to the Icecooler, for what purpose nobody knows, as such @ proceeding was altogether unusual with him, and this also attracted attention, especially as very soon afterwards he was seen toswallow some- thing from a bottle which he had taken from his pocket. This dose having been aisposed of he then drew from his pocket a pistol, which the girls who were looking at him thought was a hammer, and, stepping over to Mr. Schonlank, near the front windows and the stairs, a little behind him, on the left side, he discharged the pistol at his head, the ball entering close behind the leit ear, He then immediately turned round, facing the girls and moving toward them, and Henry Jackson, who was in the room at the time, fearing that he was about to harm the women, was in in the act of rushing toward him when the young man snapped the trigger again, with tne pistol at his own breast, and would bave fallen at the in- stant un his back to the floor only that Jackson caught him in his arms, SCHONLANK AFTER HE WAS SHOT, When Schonlank bad found that he was shot, which he learned, he says, not from the report of the pistol, but from a pricking sensation behind his Jett ear and from the streams of blood that were spurting from the wound down his neck and shoulder, he at once ran down the stairs crying out that he was shot, aud when he had got down the first flight he heard the report of the second shot, which, in bis stunned state, made him almost wild with alarm, for thoughts crowded upon his mind of @ thousand possibilities. A man who has a wile and seven children is not likey to remain cool with a bullet in his nead, and it is lit- tle wonder that the unfortunate man, as he ran along the street, his face now covered with blood and his eyes distended with alarm and excitement, attracted the attention of all passersby. A less serious Occurrence than this would be sufficient to make pedestrians on @ sidewalk stand aside and gape, with horror in their countenances, and to raw ®@ crowd, Mr. Sehoniank, accompanied by Officer Propst, who had just arrived on the scene, ran as fast as he could up Broadway to the office of Dr. Swan, at the Astor House, the people whom he met standing aside to let him pass, but failing to find that gen- tleman he crossed over to Hudnut’s drug store, where his wound was Baay dressed by one of the assistants. While here a young man came in and addressed the sufferer as father, but this ap- pears to be the only circumstance that brings thi young man into the case. Achair having been placed on a track, Schonlank was now helped up to it and driven to the Park Hospital, where Dr. Fieurer and his assistants at once came to his relief. THE SEOOND MALF OF THE TRAGEDY. Meanwhile the scene in the workshop in Vesey street was most startling to behold. When Steen- hardt had shot himse!f and fell back into the arms of Jackson the wildest cousternation seized the workpeople in the shop. The space of time be- tween the first and second sbot was not half a minute; but the first shot had scarcely fully con- vinced these people o! the seriousness of the affuir, and when they saw Steenhardt apparently a cor} in the hands of Jackson and saw his body being slowly lowered to the floor, the women began screaming and yelling, and the men, most of whom were Germans, grunted out some expres- sions of their terror, and all started for the stairs, down which they went in a headiong rush, the women tumbling to the floor in the rush and the men having their wits scared out of them, Tho crowd reached the street in satety and quickly dis- persed in various directions, not at all aon secure Of their lives, no doubt, till they were we out of sight of Vesey street. While this pellmell descent of the men and the Cin was going on Jackson was alone with the suicide in the work- tig Steenhasdt, though he fell back when the bail pierced his side, was not yet deprived of con- sciousness, and more than once, with such strength as he could command, asked Jackson to help him down stairs to the office where his brothers were at work, that he might breathe the last of his life with their eyes core erm him, Jackson was willing enough to do this, but he feared that in the descent the wounded man might grow too weak and the result might be a fall for both, that would destroy whatever little of life was left to the wounded man. Just at this opportune moment one of the German workmen ascended the stairs in his head at tne doorway, summoned new comer to his assistance; heard what was wanted of him he wheeled round, and made a plunge down the stairs as if his life de- pended upon his swiftness, leaving Jackson and the suicide aione, Fortunately, however, OMcer White arrived on the scene, and lent his assist- | ance by sending for an ambulance, and thus Stein- hardt was conveyed to the Park Hospital. THE TWO MEN AT THE HOSPITAL. Dr. Fluhrer received the two men at the hospital and as speedily as possible located them in the further ward, 3 hardw’s bed being immediately to the right of the door on entering and Schou- lank’s right opposite the door. A screen runs by the side of Steinhardt’s ved, and this projects just 80 far OU} ad Meather to allow him to Bee OF be ween 5 = by Schonlank. Everything that medical skill could do was done by Dr. Fiuhrer and his assistants ta give relief to the two men, and ina very short time the wounds of both of them were dressed and nurses placed to attend them. It waa @ curious though melancholy signs to see these twa sufferers, who but a few hours before were on the very threshold of the next world, 30 near, inaged, that scarce a hair's breadth intervened, lying here now within a few yards of each other, each with a bullet in him, and yet so loyal to each other that neither would breathe # whisper of the causes that led to the tragic termination of their secret troubles, It was strange to sed this, and no matter what may have been the cause, or Who may have been the offender, Mr. Schoulank certainly deserves some meed of admiration for the truly brave stand he took in favor of his would-be murs derer—not, indeed, that his charity, so far as is known, extended to young Steinhardt, but be- causg the grounds whereon he persisted in possessing his secret alone includea a generous sympathy for the father and Mother of the suicide, and that he wished not to heap upon their load of sorrows the bitterness ofathreatenea persecution from himself, When the doctors had examined Steinhardt they pro nounced his wound probably fatal. Yhere waa Very little blood flowing from the wound externally, 80 that it was beyond all doubt internal hemorrhage had set in, and here was where the danger lay. He grew weaker and weaker for the first hour or two, and it was cur- renily circulated outside that he was dead; bat this was unfounded, though all hope of his life had been despaired of. Later in the afternoon, how- ever, he rallied somewhat, though only by the aid of stimulants, and for two hours or so he remained. ata standstill, and then he began even to improve alittle, From the first he never lost his consclous- hess, and was well able to speak if the doctors permitted him to do 80; but, of course, trom this he was debarred. His face evidently bore the traces of his approaching end, the eyes being shaded with that wan and unearthly dimness which precedes the final darkness, and the rest of the face pallid with the hue of death, Mr, Schon- lank lay.in his bed, seemingly suffering but little pain, His head was bandaged, and in this alone was there any outward sian of the terrible shock he must have received, There was even on ww face, one should think, @ look of sympathy for the qoung. man in the bed in the opposite cor- ner, and, to say the truth, John Schonlank com- lained but little. Dr. Fluarer probed the wound in the head jor several inches, but failed to find the ball, and abandoned the operation. Neither was the ball extracted from Steinhardt’s side, During the day many of the friends of the two patients called to visit them, offering such consolation as they could, ACTION OF THE POLICE. The police of the Third precinct were busy al day in attending to the case, under direction o! Captain Williams and Sergeants Suttie and Dow- dican, The vial which contained the poison, and which had been .ound on the floor by Officer White, was taken to the Hospital, and when examined by the doctors was found to be entirely empty. On the iabel were the written words— “For external use only—Poison,” with the usual printed name and address of a Ger- man druggist in Eighth avenue, The officers at once detained the two girls—Mary Ann Arm- strong and Catharine Sweeny—as witnesses, and took them to the Third precinct station house, where they remained until they were (later in the day) discharged by the Coroner, Owing to the reticence of both Setinhardt and Schonlank and Steinhardt’s brothers, the police did not ‘find it easy to trace the shooting to any cause. The most that could be found out was that the tragedy was owing to some family diMculty, which evidently both the Stein- hardts and Schoniank were determined to keep secret, The workmen having scampered off in a panic immediately after the bioody deeds were done, notning could be learned from any of them beyend the tact that Steinhardt very likely had been shoot- ing Schonlank and shooting himself. It had been sald that & man, named Polisky, Who was the por- ter ou the premises, saw the whole affair, but when he was examined by Sergeant Dowdican, at the | station house, it appeared that he bad not been in the workshop when the shooting occurred and as could speak no English nor understand it, very little information could be got from him. “Henry Harrison, however, Who has been already mentioned as having had the ordiuary courage of remaining with and: helping the unfortunate suicide, told his story to the police, much as it has been given above. At a late hour last evening Captain Willtams had not had any information that would help in clearing up ‘the mysterious cause, nor had any 01 the friends of the wounded patients uttered asyllable tending to shed o true light upon the double murderous attempt, SOLVING THE SEORET, Many stories are told about the young man Steinhardt, one of which is to the effect that when he went South some few years ago he parted from his family on the best of terms, His return, almost peuniiess, had, no doubt, much to do in disturbing ms mind, and it is generally admitted that his mental calibre has not for some time past been mucit above the very weakest. There i8 nothing in his countenance to denote that he was ever a man of strength of mind; but as the family persist in pre- serving the secret cause of this affair, no attempt need be made to uplift the veil by mere speculation, THE CORONER AT THE HOSPITAL. Reaching the bedside of Steinhardt at the hos- pital, Coroner bse | asked Surgeon Fiuhrer the condition of his patient, and was told he was ina very critical condition, with the probabilities decidediy against his recovery, as he was suffering from internal hemorrhage. — Sur- geon Fluhrer aroused Steinhardt, whereupon Coroner Young asked him if he had any statement to make, to which he petulantly replied, “No, I have no statement to make; I did not shoot any one and know nothing about it.” The impression pre- vailed that Steinhardt had been advised by his relatives and iriends to keep quiet and say nothing about the tragic occurrence, SCHONLANK’S STORY. Turning from Steinhardt, Coroner Young stopped toacot near by, on which lay Mr. Samuel Schon- lank, of the firm of Messrs, Steinhardt Bros. & Scnonlank, 6S Vesey street, who had been shot by Steinhardt and commenced a conversation with him, He was found to be suffering from a pistol shot wound behind the leit ear, the ball passing inward and down- ward, and doubtiess in its course severing an artery, as the hemorrhage from the wound was excessive. Mr. Schonlank appeared to be quite reticent, but on the earnest solicitation of Surgeon Fluhrer made an informal statement to Coroner Young. Me. Schontank sald that about two months ago Ephraim Steinhardt came into the cigar manufac- tury 58 Vesey street, of which he was the principal partner, to learn the business, and being a brother of one of the firm, special 3 Were taken to ad- vance him, Young Steinhardt made rapid pro; became an expert at the busines of ci making, and, for atime, everything progressed favorably, until last Friday week, when Steinhardt asked Mr. Schonlank to show him something in regard to business, at the same time saying, “You make @ smooth cigar, while those I make are rough.” sci HARSH AND UNFRIENDLY WORDS then passed between them, and Mr. Schoniank saia to stelnhardt, “I will not show you any more.” Steinhardt subsequently left the store, to which he did not return till shortly before etght o'clock yesterday morning, when he entered the cigar manufactory and went to his bench as if to resume his work again, After a brief delay, and without saying a word to Schonlank, Steinhardt sepree ny hind him, and drawing a pistol, shot him behind the leftear. Mr. Schonlank says, that being alarmed at the report, and feeling that he was shot, he ran down stairs, and when near the bottom of the filght neard another report of a pistol; Mr. Schonlank says he was then taken toa drug store for treatment, and thence to the Park Hospital. Mr. Schonlank briefly hinted at the existence of some family trouble, but, checking himself, said nothing further on the subject. SCHONLANK BORRY FOR SPRAKING. Later in the evening, when Mr. Schonlank began to gain some little strength, he expressed himsel! as sincerely sorry that he had made any statement whatever to the Coroner. He was very sorry, he said, that any word should have escaped him that could by any possibility implicate Steinhardt in the unfortunate occurrence that had taken place, for what would affect Ephraim should necessarily affect his family. NO HOPE FOR STRINHARDT. Surgeon Fluhrer entertains hope that Mr. Schon+ Jank’s recovery will be speedy, though his condi- tion is still critical, Last night he was doing very nd no fears were entertained about him. , however, in Steinhardt’s case. Dr. Me- Cowan, who was in charge of the hospital last night, stated that no hope whatever was enter- tained for Steinhardt. It would be a miracle were he to recover, and the possibility was he would be dead before morning, TWO MURDERS IN CALIFORNIA SAN FRANCISCO, August 11, 1873. John Cartin shot and fatally wounded a man named Johnson, in Main street, to-day. The ale leged stdnction ch Curtin’s daughter was the cause of the shooting. Henry A, Plaeger hot and instantly killed Geo. Smith, at San Paplo, Contra Costa county, (al ang him when a c hime Pracyer claims that the pistol went off accl- dentally. A NEW YORK THIEF RECAPTURED. “Dublin Joe's’? Nemesise PHILADBLPHIA, east un, Hora ‘The Habitual Crimtnal act has resulted 80 6! cially in New York that many of her old State Prison thieves of every grade have sought pas- babe and some of them have succeeded tn 88 and soon tures new, in the “City of Brotherly Love.’ wor aire tiner ia the well known jail bird. familiar to all policemen as “Dublin Joe,” who wad bh ane Bom sing. Alter released & month ax ung Sine, nites donning citizen's attire he and was nabbed in New York ior pic! profaaton to the Tombs he and while on his wi potted the officer who arrested him and escaped ta this city. Yesterday afternoon Detective Taggar' of the Pennsylvania Detective Bureau, ran oul o | the iugitive at the Baltimore depot, and after @ lively chase succeeded, in capturing him and he was shipped back to Gotham, were he will doubt jessly be tried on the cuarge already preferred \ against him,