The New York Herald Newspaper, June 19, 1872, Page 4

$ ” THE WONDER HUNTERS. Progress of the Agassiz Geological, Archeologi- cal, Paleontological, Sounding, Dredg- ing and Impaling Expedition. Talcahuano, Concepcion and Juan Fer- uandez, Valparaiso and Callao. notaee sgeratieaseatier THE HOME OF ROBINSON CRUSOE, | Horrors of the Crave Yards of Santiago. A FIRST VIEW OF THE ANDES Scientific Scrapings from the Ocean Bed, Botanic Grubbings from the Land, and Savant Chippings from Old Stones. UNrrep States CoasT SURVEY STEAMER ‘grown VaLPARalso, Chile, May 11, 1872, It was late in the afternoon of April 11 when we reached our anchorage in Concepcion Bay, opposite the little town of Talcahuano, We had been look- (ng forward for along time to our afrival at this port, the first one after many weeks spent either at sea or in wild, savage regions where we could expect to receive letters from home or enjoy the pleasures of civilization, and where many of our party hoped to see old acquaintances and renew old friendships. It was a lovely afternoon, and as we rounded Tumbes Heights and stood in the harbor— the finest on the western coast of South America— seemed especially attractive, partly from its intrin- sic beauty and partly, no doubt, from our personal anticipations and from the historic interest at- tached to many of the points presented to our view. The bay is about six miles long by four wide, containing one “large island and a few shoals, but affording well sheltered anchorage ground at nearly every point. Talcahuano js situated at its southwest an- gle, and we steamed toward {it near the western shore, along which runs a range of hills, eight hun- dred or one thousand feet high, continuous with those lining thé coast for many hundreds of miles, their rounded slopes being ‘apparently well culti- vated. To the east we could see the towns of Tome and Penco, as clusters of white dots at the foot of green hill sides, and ahead the low houses and soli- tary spire of Taleahuano began to draw into view as we neared our destination. The whole scene was very quict and peaceful, but it was the arena in which had occurred, on more than one occasion, a terrible contest of the elements. About a cen- tury and a half ago the seaport and capital of the Province of Concepcion was situated at the point where the little village of Penco now flourishes. It was ONCE OVERWHELMED BY AN EARTHQUAKE WAVE. In 1730 and in 1751 its successor was destroyed in a similar manner. After these two calamities the site of the town was removed to the right bank of the River Bio-Bit, about nine miles from Talca- huano, which became.its seaport, and the present city occupies the same position. A period, if not of quiet, at least of comparative, security followed these disasters, until on the 20th of February, 1835, & convuision occurred, which rivalled its predeces- sors in destructive effects, and which is still speken of with horror by many who witnessed it. On the Morning of that day great numbers of sea fowl Were seen to pass over the city towards the inte- rior, and it was noticed that the majority of the mongrel homeless curs, usually abundant in the streets, had left the vicinity. These facts seem to have been recorded by credible and reliable ob- servers, and have since been regarded as indicative | of the premonition of these creatures in some incomprehensible way of the approach of danger. A little before noon a slight to have upon fhe minds and even the morals of the inhabitants; but there was none of the squalid a) pearance mentioned by former visitora. In the poorer quarters here, a3 at home, there are filth, m and degradation; but in the houses of tho wealthier and more intelligent, although there is an absence of exterior decoration, were found in- variably a degree of refinement and elegance, almost of luxury, rare with us except in large cities, As to our PERSONAL RECEPTION AND TREATMENT, nothing could have been more kind, more attentive or more Moapifanie and there was a degree of culti- vation and lack of provineialisi which would be anomalies in a town of the same size in the States, The population, of about four thousand, probably has the same distinctions and contains the same elements asin the larger South American cities, with perhaps a little less admixture of the Ameri- can and English element. ie three Peomineas classes are :—The descendants of the old Spaniards, who constitute the upper stratum of society; a mid- dle working class, corresponding tu our laborers; and half-breeds, usually holding menial itions, and resulting from the union of the preceding class with the native Indians. These half-breeds have many distinct and interesting physical characteris- tics, and some time was spent in obtaining photo- graphs of those who showed them most markedly. CONCEPCION WAS VISITED. FREQUENTLY, the ride between it and Talcahuano being, one of our chief forms of amusement. ‘The road is about nine miles long, straight, broad, and, except in a few places, quite firm. Tt passes through a wide plain covered with baldos bushes and then runs for several miles between cultivated flelds, One of the frequent sights along tne road was a migratory Chileno family, travelling in an ox-cart consisting of @ box set on two wheels le of solid blocks, Their advent would be her: from afar by the shrill whistling and creaking the rude convey- ance, the sound of which was, however, equalled, if not exceeded, by the clatter of tongues arising from the women and children packed in the vehicle, A “Como lv va?” was always answered politely, though rather too volubly for one with but a limite acquaintance with the language. In front of the huts on either side of the-road Women and men were seated at work, the former picking out threads from pieces of muslin, 80 as to form the lace which they sell in the cities, the men making straw mats for the same purpose. Although there were none of those indications of ‘osperity common with us, no comfortable dwell- ings, commodious barns or neat ‘enclosures, yet, on the other hand, there seemed to be no want of the necessaries of life, the children, as well as the parents, bemg fat and well nourished, though neither of them were remarkable for personal nicety, In Concepcion the houses are, the same one storied, quadrangular buildings; the hotels are good and very inexpensive; the streets are all straight and do not err extremely on the score of either width or cleanliness, and the town hasa general alr of respectable mediocrity. There area number of public buildings, SCHOOLS, CONVENTS AND CHURCHES, the latter being the most creditable in the way of architecture and decoration, The Alameda is a park on the eastern side of the town, the chief ornament of which 18 several rows of noble Lom- bardy poplars. It is now almost entirely neg- lected for the more modern and convenient Plaza in the centre of the town. On the streets the majority of the population seemed to consist of priests and policemen, both usually Wasi | sleek and well fed. The influence of the Church, though still predominant, appears to be diminishing as modern education, leading to more liberal modes of reasoning and thinking, is becoming more com- mon. It has not been long since an encounter took place at Concepcion between the spiritual and temporal authorities, which created so much excitement and has been the cause of so much political and religious controversy that, although Insignificant in itself, it has, on account of the principles involved, become of great importance. A well known and popular military officer died, re- fusing to receive the attentions of a priest. The curate declared that his body should not be inter- red in the Catholic cemetery, he + HAVING DIED AS A HERETIC. The Intendente of the province, however, in- sisted on his burial in the ordinary locality, and, having the requisite power, ordered’ the funeral to take place, and the remains, followed by a vast concourse, were deposited in consecrated ground. The curate appealed to the Archbishop, and the latter to the general government in a published address, setting forth many sips against religion and morality, of which, he said, the deceased had been systematically ’ guilty.’ The matter was agitated in Congress, a resolution sent to the Executive asking that some action be taken, and the result was that in a short time a decree was issued authorizing the burial of every one, saint or sinner, believer or heretic, Jew or Mohammedan, in the consecrated ground, hitherto held sacred for the elect and redeemed. This, coming from @ gov- ernment said to have been established in a”great measure by priestly influence, and striking as it does a blow at one of the fundamental institutions of the Church, is believed by many to be an unmise takable indication of the approaching downfall of @ power which has always been ‘& clog on the pro- gress of the nation. Some ofthe characteristic dishes of the country are worthy of mention, as we ce» tainly considered them worthy of much more mate- rial attention during our stay; but to attempt a description would be to do them the injustice of mentionin: byt (pes apparently incompatible, without being able to explain the skill which com- bines them, the only conclusive proof of their ex- cellence being precisely similar to that of THE PROVERBIAL PUDDING. On the afternoon of April 25, our machine work being concluded and our new reversing quadrant in place, we got under way, after a little delay caused by the packing of our port anchor chain, and steamed out of the harbor, heading towards the northwest, for Juan Fernandez. We were going shock was felt almost simultaneously in Concep- cion and Talcahuano, but gave little alarm to a majority of the inhabitants, accustomed to almost daily evidence of the instability of the crust on which they were living. It soon, however, in- | creased terribly in violence, buildings waved and | tottered, individuals were unable to stand upright, the heat became stifling, dust arose in blinding, smothering clouds, and in a few minutes both cities were in ruins, hardly a half dozen houses remaining | intact. At Talcahuano nearly the whole popula- tion sought refuge on the hills from the wave, which they rightly anticipated as a result of the shock. The sea had retired, until vessels which | had been anchored in seven fathoms of water were | aground, and every rock and shoal in the bay was exposed, In a little while an enormous mass of water was seen rushing in from the ocean through the narrow passage between Quiriquina Island and the western shore, uprooting trees on the banks, tearing ships from their anchorage, and finally over- whelming the town. It soon receded, carrying with it everything not buried beneath the ruins» and leaving the vessels again aground. It was succeeded by a second and then by a third, augmenting in size and violence. Two immense waterspouts, followed by whirlpools, were seen in the bay, which became black and sulphurous; | thousands of dead fish were thrown ashore; gas and water boiled up and escaped in the midst of | the town, and these disturbances continued until, | as described by Captain Fitzroy and Mr. Darwin, they ceased as though from actual exhaustion. | This earthquake was felt at all points between | Chilo# and Copiapé and Juan Fernandez and Men- | doza, During the next two weeks more than three hundred distinct shocks were experienced by those who remained on the spot, endeavoring to rebuild their fallen habitations or seeking for lost treas- ures, either carried out to sea or buried beneath | heaps of rubbish. It was many years before the | traces of this disaster were removed, though since then another interval of calm has followed. Such were the events which had OCCURRED WITHIN FORTY YEARS | in the locality where a placid expanse of water, | sunny hill sides, fertile flelds and luxuriant forests | seemed to deprecate any association, even in our thoughts, with scenes of violence and destruction. AS soon as we dropped anchor we received the cus- tomary visit of inquiry and inspection, then others, not customary unfortunately, reuniting friends and | relatives after a long separation, and then the ar- rival of our mail bringing nothing but good ne’ and plenty of it, completed the pleasure of the day. We were detained at that port a fortnight while the Ped was undergoing repairs, it being necessary to have @ new reversing quadrant cast in place of the one which had broken while we were in the straits. Jt gave us avery welcome opportunity of becoming quainted with the sur- rounding country and of prosecuting the usual sc tife work, and in the latter direction much more wre done than had been anticipated. A vacant dweiing was secured as the headquarters of the | scientitic corps, at a cost which would seem ridicu- lously small in the States, and our apparatus for | zoologicai, photographical and other work were taken there. scarcely was it known what were the articles desired by Yrofessor Agassiz when every | idier—and there are ma1y—every school-boy who | could escape his task, every old, decrepit dame who | could hobble about, every lazy half-breed or tips: wa‘erman—in fact, every one who ordinarily ha no visible occupation constituted himself an at- taché of the Professor, and he and his assistants were HARDLY ABLE TO WALK THE STREETS IN PEACE, | so beset were they with importunate caterers to | the museum of comparative zoology, At first, in | consequence of the novelty of the trafic, the prices | | | asked were fabuyious, but eager competition ai abundant supplies soon brought them to a norn level, and great numbers of sp mens of all kin were secured. he town of Tal DO has one prin cipal street parallel to the shore of the bay, a row | ofomees for public business, which front on a fine | to sea for the first time since leaving Boston with- to the pleasure and liggtened the care of the trip raiso, the other at Panama. Professor Agassiz and Dr. Steindachner also stayed, intending to make an overland trip of a few hundred miles, We stop- pe‘l several times to sound and dredge on our way out, but early on the morning of April 29 we SIGHTED JUAN FERNANDEZ, and by daybreak were quite close toit. The ap- proach to the island is remarkable for its pic- turesqueness, and a nearer view adds greatly to its beauty, though if it were a mere sandbank it would have an intense interest from the atmosphere of mixed romance and reality surrounding it—remem- brances of Robinson Crusoe and Alexander Selkirk, Spanish buccaneers and Chileno convicts, ship- wrecks and earthquakes, caves, cannibals, tame parrots and goatskin umbrellas intermingling in one’s thoughis. We were not, however, able to satisfy our desire to set foot on’its shore: eight hours, during which time we sou dredged in the vicinity of the island and 9lso made various observations upon the action and penetra. tion of light at different depths. It is now gen- erally known and understood that associated with the ordinary illuminating rays of light are others, called the “actinic,” or sometimes the chemical rays, which have distinct properties, being absorbed by various bodies not affecting the others, and especially exercising a decomposing action op cer- tain chemical compounds, which action in the case of the salts of sil constitutes the basis of pho- tography. As has been previously asserted of the illuminating rays, no facta whatever were known in regard to the presence or absence of this quick- ening and VITALIZING FORCE IN THE DEPTHS OF THE OCEAN, and whether these rays were absorbed or were transmitted far below the surface has been a ques- tion on which a few zoological facts alone threw a feeble and uncertain light. A novel and interesting 4 | experiment on this subject was made by the help of an extremely ingenious apparatus invented by Dr. ‘Thomas Hill, ex-President of Harvard College. consists Of a small brass case containing the works of an ordinary Waltham watch. Covering this case and of equal size are two plates, the upper one cor- responding in its motion to the minute hand of a watch, and having acrescentic opening around two- thirds of its circumference, the other fixed immova- bly and perforated by @ small circular aperture, under which is a chamber for the reception of a coated and sensitized plate. Now, starting the watch at the moment when the opening in the upper plate is just about to ,uncover by its motion that in the lower, it is evident that during forty minutes, or two-thirds of the hour | out female society, the two ladies who had added | | having remained behind—one to rejoin us at Valpa- | | | | pointed at not seeing more evident traces of Robin- | son Crusoe, refused to believe even in Alexander It | required by the dattened and expanded minute hand | to make its circuit, light will be admitted through the revolving crescentic opening and the fixed cir- | cular aperture, and will penetrate to the surface of the sensitized plate. At the end of the two-thirds ofan hour the unperforated portion of the upper plate comes over the ight is shut off, and remains so for twenty minutes, Now, when in practical ise, a plate is prepared in the dark room, and put in its piace in t ing the interval of the absence of light; the whole apparatus is then deposited ina heavy tron cup, over which a piece of ret glass is fastened by a tightly fitting cap, and it is then sunk to the re- quired depth, and the time noted. The process which takes place is as follows:—At the end of twenty minites the upper Opening comes over the lower one, and continues to pass slowly over it for forty minutes, during which time WHATEVER RAYS HAVE REACHED THAT DEPTH pass through the plate glass and the two apertures and produce their decomposing effect upon the sen- sitive film. At the end of that time, the light being shut om by the motion of the upper plate, the apparatus is withdrawn, carried to the dark room and the plate developed as in ordinary photo- graphic operations. In this way we have been ena- bled by Dr, Hill's beautiful ‘little apparatus to demonstrate the presence of actinic rays at com- paratively great depths, and hope to continue the observations until enough shall have been taken to be presented in a tabulated form, On the morning of May 1 we ran in and dropped anchor in Cu land Bay, the harbor on the east- ern end of the island, an open roadstead, much ex- posed to northerly winds, but safe and convenient when they do not prevail, Nearly opposite the cen- tre of the bay rises for three thousand feet A REMARKABLE FLAT-TOPPRD MOUNTAIN, the highest elevation on the island. It is ‘called | from its shape El Yungue, or The Anvil, On either side are lesser peaks, sharp and jagged, and be- tween them are valleys filled with thick forests and tangled shrabbery, or beautifully green with grassy plains, The hill sides are covered with vegetation, ; :rch, @ plaza and a railroad depot. The | which increases in luxuriance a8 you ascend; but nooeie' & a orone story and in the form of a P those clitts fronting on the sea are bare and rugged, holiow square, having in the centre a court-yard, | and in ore places descend almost perpendicularly on which most of the rooms open. Those of tho | from a height of one or two thousand feet, their sur- Jower classes are iuilt, by nailing rows of slates on both side: posts set in the ground, filling in be- tween the 8 with brushwood or other waste ma- terial, and plastering the outside with mud, or in some cases with stucco. The frequency of carth- quakes has undoubtedly had its effect upon the gecuitecture of the country. as it bas been asserted | face affording neither shelter bor sustenance even to the wild goats. Juan Fernandez 1s about ten miles long, three or four in width and is 360 miles from the mainiand. Ita history has been a most peculiar one. Discov. ered in 1563 by the Spaniard, from whom it takes ite mame, it ower circle and all access Of | os city ig built on asmall atrip of land lying be- e case dur- | tractions to induce him to apply fora rmission to settle there. The request i came wl be oeanlo ed a8 & arene for various lawless characters. ugglers 801 refuge there, buccaneers and pirates made ft ener hiding place and headquarters, and English adventurers—not on a much higher level morality—stopped there to rest and recruit until a favorable time arrived for sweeping down on the western coast to piliage ana under. Their principal means of sustenance eing the flesh of wild goats, the Viceroy of Peru caused large numbers of dogs to be introduced on the island; the majority of the goats were hunted down and killed, and @ period of peace seems to have followed. In 1681 a Mosquito Indian was left there, lived solitarily for three years and was then rémoved. ALEXANDER SELKIRE In 1704 was landed from a Spanish galley and remained there alone until he was succored ‘in 1709, It is to his story, as told by himself to Defoe, that we owe ‘obinson Crusoe,” perhaps the most widely-known ofall works of fiction in all ages. It does not, it 18 true, adhere closely to Selkirk’s narrative, and, in- deed, the story, as written by Defoe, would place its hero on an island in the Atlantic, not far from the equator, Probably Tobago corresponds more | closely than any other to the description given. It |. Was, however, from Selkirk that Defoe first received the stimulus to undertake and the groundwork upon which to base the tale, which has made them both infinitely more famous then they would have been if Defoe had simply transcribed and published Selkirk’s account. In 1741 Lord Anson landed on Juan Fernandez with the REMNANT OF THE CREWS OF THREE VESSELS. The Pat dn yee Se havoc among them, but the fresh fc and mild climate of the island restored them all to health, and they went away to sing its praises, In1761 a Spanish settie- ment was started there, but was soon destroyed by the great @arthquake, and for a number of years | wabeacnenty the island was only transiently and irregularly inhabited. In 1819 a penal colony was established there by the Chilean government, but the prisoners growing too numerous roge on the troops and overpowered them. The expense of maintaining @ military force strong enough to quell such insurrections was found to be so great that the island was again abandoned to solitude, | We had expected to find a German settlement there, but on going on shore we were met by an intelligent Chileno, who ke excellent English, and who informed us that the island is at present leased from the Chilean government by a gentiem: residing in Valparaiso, There are but twelve people in all now living there, whose occu- pation is the cultivation of the soil and the care of the live stock, which consists of some fine cattle | and a few fowls. THE WILD GOATS were said to be as numerous as ever, but the dogs had been hunted and killed in their turn until there was but one poor solitary individual left on the island. Beef, vegetables and fresh milk are sold to vessels stopping for supplies, and especially to American whalers, who are the chief customers. During the twenty-four hours of our stay there everything was done in the way of collecting which | was possible—fishes, crabs, shrimps and lobsters of various genera being obtained from the bay, a few birds trom the hills, and a variety of mollusca along the shore, A shark of the family acanthius was harpooned by one of the officers from the stern ofthe vessel and was dissected and preserved, The whole island seemed tO us distinctly volcanic, the rocks consisting of basaltic green stone and trap and covered with a scoriaceous lava, the decompo- sition of which has produced a moderately fertile but loose and crumbling soil. The botany was found to be of great interest, and resembled that of Chile much more than was thought probable from the direction of the prevailing winds and currents. We subsequently discovered, on more carefully comparing specimens, that it was only a resem- blance, and that there were very few cases of iden- tity of species. The dark foliage of the myrtle pre- dominates on the hillsides, but fig, peach, cherry, apple and other fruit trees grow in abundance, and palms flourish on the summits, though they do not descend into the valleys. Wild oats, wild radishes, strawberry plants, mint, tree-ferns, lichens and mosses were also seen in great abundance, and parasitic vegetation seems to possess a luxuriance almost tropical. High up on one of the hills a bronze plate was found, fastened in the rocky wall ofa mountain path, and bearing the following in- scription :— PO OCOL LE EOLORDNOLOS LEN SOLOIELODOEEIDDESDLOGEDELE Ix Mumony ov ALEXANDER SELKIRK, Mariner, ‘a native of Laego, in the county of Fife, Scotland, who lived on this island in complete solitude for tour ears and four inonths. He was landed trom the} 3Uinque Ports, galley of ninety-six tons and sixteen 3qune, In 1704, dnd was taken off In the Duke, privateer, in February, 1709. He died lieutenant of H. M. 8. Weymouth, A. D. 1728, lookout by Com- a aged 47 years. ‘This tablet is erected near Selkirk Jmodore Powell and the officers of H. M. 8. Topaz, + Dever ence ee ee rt OIE POLLO ODODE DE DILELE DE DDIOLE The most interesting spot on the island was the cave where Selkirk lived during his residence there—the Jerusalem of all devout believers in “Robinson Crusoe," and the spot which, more than any other, connects that wonderful story with reality, It is situated near the shore of a bay, about a quarter of a mile to the west of the harbor, and we were compelled to go to it by water. When | We arrived there we found a heavy swell and surf | beating on a rocky beach, and our landing was | effected with considerable dimiculty. A SHORT WALK BROUGHT US TO THE CAVE, which is in full sight from the shore, only a field of | wild oats intervening. It is, perhaps, fifteen or twenty feet high, and as many deep, situated at the foot of a precipitous hillside and surrounded by thin clans of a species of cane. It was some- what of a disappointment to find that it did not correspond more closely to Kobinson’s description of his celebrated habitatien, with its impreg- nable hedges, ita second doorway of exit, ita nooks for stowing his powder and other valuables, and its numerous ingenious contrivances for the comfort and safety of its dis- tinguished occupant, Its situation, however, agreed nore nearly with the fiction, and the plain— ‘not above a hundred yards broad and about twice as long’'—which lay like a green before the door of Crusoe’s cave, sheltered from the heat of the sun till towards its setting, and “descending irregularly every way down into the low ground by the sea side,’ might well have been that on which we looked, The place had been desecrated by BACRILEGIOUS RELIC HUNTERS, who had carved their names over its walls and chipped away great pieces of its interior, and it was black with smoke from the fires of three Chileno families who had recently inhabited it. These cir- cumstances, however, did not dampen our ardor or lessen our enthusiasm, and, with the exception of one sceptical member of the party, who, disap- nt and refused | | Selkirk, we all left, feeling that the day had been one never to be forgotten. Early on the following morning we stood out to | Sea and proceeded towards Valparaiso, with | Occasional stoppages for sounding and dredging. | About four o’clock on the morning of May 5 we sighted the light on Angeles Point, and by day- break were standing into araiso Bay and en- | joying our FIRST VIEW OF THE ANDES, | whose grand chain was-projected against the clear , eastern sky. We were looking at last at moun- | tains, not sand hills or stone piles, but mountains, | and Aconcagua—the highest point on the American Continent, 6,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc and only excelled by the mountains of India—loomed | up from the distance of 100 miles until he seemed | close at hand, A dark cloud was perched, som- brero like, on his peak, until touched and made | golden by the rising sun. On either side for 200 miles we could see ranges only slightly inferior to him in altitude and covered with perpetual snows | far below our line of vision, though they seemed dark in their own shadows, Ye dropped anchor about eight 0° lon, where we have sin ronclusion of some necessa ng engine, lock in our remained y repairs to UNITED STATES COAST SUR Hass CALLAO, May After a short and pleasant run from Juan Fernan- dez we dropped anchor in Valparaiso harbor at daybreak on May 5. The bay is a shallow road- stead, entirely open to the north, and strong winds from that quarter are apt to do much damage to the wharves and shipping. The business portion of | tween the water and the bases of the hilis, while many of the private residences are perched on the sides of the latter at various elevations, so that it is not unusual to have to ascend one hundred feet or more by narrow, winding paths in order to reach them, The streets are kept in a state of scrupu, lous cleanliness, which contrasts remarkably with those of our principal cities, and the common spec- tacle of policemen enforcing municipal regulations, and actually assisting in the removal of waste ma. terlals from the highways, Was one calculated to | excite doubt, even in the mind of the most ardent lover of home institutions, as to the advantage of a Board of Health over an Intendente, The public buildings and the business edifices. are many of them handsome, and are generally well and sub- stantially built. There is less of the common ten- dency of South American cities to spread out later- | ally, owing, no doubt, to the very small portion of land which has been redeemed from the sea by the gradual rise of the coast. It is now generally believed that such a rise has been taking place for along while, whether from a@ subsidence of the oceanic area, from the expansive power of im- prisoned vapors, from the contraction of neighbor- ing portions of the earth's surface, from tidal waves in an internal igneows fluid, or from any or all of the numerous forces which have been assigned as causes by geological speculators. Shells of recent or existing species are satd to have taken place have doubtless produced corre- sponding changes in the climate and physical char- acteristics of the country. Before the Cordillera attained its present height the warm, tropical, east- erly winds were not chilled and deprived of all their moisture by contact with its cold summits, and the whole region must have worn a different aspect under their fertilizing showers. Then, too, localized alterations have had their effect—rivers have been turned backward in their course, and plains covered with luxuriant vegetation have be- come barren wastes, Ruined buildings have been found all through Chile and Peru in situations now the most unlikely to attract settlers—at heights where the snow never melts, in valleys where no rain ever falls and not even @ streamlet irrigates the soll, and in places where the land is utterly unfit for any kind of cultivation, To those who first discovered them they were mysteries, and even the old tribes, some of whom yet live secluded far up in the mountains, know nothing of their ori- gin. In the light of comparatively recent geologi- cal discovery it now seems probable that man must have inhabited this portion of our Continent for ages, that since those rude houses were erected | the character of their surroundings has changed, and that possibly the whole of the present rainiess region was once a veritable “valley of Paradise.” | The commercial prosperity of the city of Valparaiso dates from the establishment of Chile as an inde- pendent State, and depends partly upon its posi- tion as port of the capital and the natural outlet of fertile and wealthy tracts of land, and partly upon its central situation as a rendezvous for nearly all vessels entering the Pacific. A day or two after our arrival a party went by sail to Santiago, where they had the pleasure of rejoining Professor and Mrs, Agassiz, and learning of their experiences and discoveries on their overland Journey from Talca- | huano. The portion of Chile included between the Andes and the coast range is a narrow valley sev- eral hundred miles in length, It is crossed at {n- tervals py rudely stratified terraces of shingle and sand running from the mountains on the east over the bed of the valley. The Professor FOUND GLACIAL MARKINGS beyond the latitude of Santiago, not so intense, of course, a3 those observed in higher latitudes, but showing just a8 unmistakably the northward pas- sage of a sheet of ice, while the lines of shingle run- ning up to the Andes, and called by the natives “cerillos,” were well marked moraines, derived from iocal glaciers, which must formerly have de- scended from the mountains, Previous observers have attributed them to the action of mountain torrents delivering their detritus at first high up, and then lower and lower down, as the land rose slowly from the sea; but in addition to the usual marks of glacial action it was found that in not a single instance did they extend completely across the main valley, as they would probably have done had they been formed by torrents. Many ad- ditional facts bearing upon @he question were ob. ser ved, and a report irom the Professor himself may be expected shortly. The general opinion of Santiago was that it rep- resented in many respects the highest civilization we have yet seen, and that its situation on a broad fertile piain at the base of the Andes, with an ele- vation of about eighteen hundred teet, was almost unequalled for the salubrity of its climate and the grandeur of its scenery. It seemed somewhat strange, therefore, to learn from perfectly reliable and intelligent residents that its MORTALITY HAS BEEN GREATER FOR SOME YEARS than that of the great majority of the large cities of the world, but a subsequent experience of some of the tach seemed to offer at least a partial ex- planation of this fact. A visit which was paid to a graveyard situated in the suburbs not very far from the centre of the city disclosed a state of affairs which evinced a disregard for the principles of com- mon decency and humanity astounding in a city somewhat renowned for its culture and refinement. The cemetery is divided into three portions, one with stone walls, marble tablets, neat footpaths and handsome cypresses, which is used by the wealthier portion of the community; a second, plainer, but still respectable in appearance, where the poor are allowed to buy a decent resting place for their deceased friends or relatives, but only for a time proportionate to their means—that is, the graves there are kept to rent foracertain time, after which the bodies are removed and thrown in- discriminately into pits in the third and lowest di- vision, without any mark of identification, and are often allowed to remain exposed without a covering of earth, A HORRIBLE, GHASTLY SIGHT. Even in the second division the graves are made so shallow that in many places portions of the bodies or skeletons projected above the surface. As it is all consecrated ground it is not permitted to defile it by the burial of heretics within its limits. It is not a pleasant subject to dwell upon, but it is Worth mentioning as a possible cause of the great mortality and a8 showing the lack of some of the ae elements entering into our own civilization. everal excursions were taken during our stay at Valparaiso to the adjoining localities, and were very pleasant experiences. Among them was a visit to Vita del Mar, a little village distant some fifteen minutes’ ride by rail, but further and more agreeable on horseback. The road leads out through the suburbs, where the houses grow smaller but cover more ground, their low door- ways surrounded by swarthy groups washing, weaving or gossiping; the men gay in many- colored ponchos; the women usually in clean gowns, their chief beauty being the thick, black hair which reaches in neat plaits far below their waists. Then by spacious, well-ordered slaughter houses belonging to the city—a marked contrast in their cleanlinesss ¢o the graveyard of its neighbor— past little hovels, the number of whose occupants seemed to be in an inverse ratio to the size of their habitations, and then on a broad, winding ke up and down hillsides and over their summits, with Magnificent views of the bay, crowded with ship- ping, and in the distance the snowy peaks of the Cordillera, the highest points in the,world outside of the Himalayas. It was often har believe that they were a hundred miles away, so sharply did THEIR JAGGED, BARREN SUMMITS stand out against the clear sky. It was as strange as if, standing on the Battery and looking towards the southwest we could see & mountain apparently to be reached in the lazy stroll of a summer after- noon and yet knew that it was at Philadelphia. ‘On another occasion a short trip was taken by rail to the town of Quillota, about twelve or thirteen leagues distant. The road at first runs by the sea- shore, and then passes through a rather barren district, but soon enters a_ valley remarkabie for its beauty and fertility. Rows of noble Lombardy poplars with, bushwood between them serve as fences.on either’ side of the track for miles, and beyond them im- mense orchards, grassy meadows, groves of fruit and forest trees and grazing cattle gave evidence of the agricuitural prosperity of the region. The num- ber and length of the bridges on the road seem ridi- culous at this: time of the year, when compared with the apparant insignificance of the streams which they cross; but in the wet season the dry, shallow, pebbly water courses which we observed become swollen and turbid rivers and sweep over the plains with great fury. THE HOUSES AT QUILLOTA are built almost entirely of adobe or sun-dried brick, and are of only one story, of the usual quad- rangular form, with the enclosed courtyard, and generally with extensive grounds attached, The town is spread in this way over an immense area, and thus loses some of the advantages it might otherwise have as a commercial centre of the beautiful province in which it stands, for it has made it impossible to transact business with any despatch. A number of the wealthy citizens of Santiago and Valparaiso have their summer resi- dences there, and we were shown through the grounds attached, and one of them rivalling in ex- tent the country place of Senhor Lagé at Juiz de Fora, which we visited when in Brazil. We were delayed a short time at Valparaiso by the non-arrival of some cases of valuable specimens ; but about noon on the 13th we got under way and ran out of the harbor. DR ING AGAIN, We stopped after Folng ashort distance and dredged, chiefly for the benefit of some of the officers of the Chilean corvette Chacabuca, who had just returned from a survey of the Chonos Archipelago, and were anxious to learn our mode of working. We then continued on our course, and at three o’clock “took our departure” from Mes raiso Light, heading toward the northwest. e ran along for the next two days near the coast, getting occasional Cay of the Cordillera, anc early on the morning 01 harbor of Caldera, where the usual collecting and exploring party went ashore. The town is the seaport of the mining district of Copiapo, and as the value of its annual exporta- tions of copper, silver and gold has been estimated at more than ten millions of dollars it has an im- portance which would never be inferred from its appearance. It consists of two rows of unsightly frame houses stretching along the edge of a desert of sand, not a tree or a blade of grass or a spring of water or anything cool, moist, fresh or green being visible. ‘andering through the streets we met A TAME GUANACO, who seemed like an old friend, after our experience in the Straits, but did not behave like one, as he re- pulsed our efforts to caress him by ejecting his saliva toward us in @ disagreeably human manner, and then commenced to renew his supply by churn- ing violently with his cheeks and jaws. e deemed it prudent under the circumstances to retire and leave him in uhdisturbed possession of the feld. The sand overlies in some places beds of imper- fectly stratified fossiliferous limestone, while at others there is an outcrop of volcanic rocks, chiefly have been found strewn along the coast for thou- sands of miles, embedded in foose sand or mould on terraces and hill tops, and it seems evident that it has not been long since this portion of the American Continent was entirely basaltic and evidently in with an occasional “enatic” of nite or perphyry. Many of these were polished smooth, and even by the continual pee | of the sand omy them, and this was 80 marked that the direct of the prevailing winds might have been deduced from comparison of the! faces. Others were hoHowed out on the side tu vreseuted sufficient at- | submerged. The frequent changes of level which | seaward, aa by the deah of the waves, though the 16th anchored in the | they are now some distance above the see level, Some tufts of a species of broom, and a number daca StS ar wn, and 8 ne blank and it A special train ea ‘oa ble eed, at Professor vince. 8 dis) rior, but vi visit the inte- Fendered it impos- on our course the same afternoon, after caused by the Ton-arival of two of party, mo sula on whieh caldera ris Dalle eee peRin en for five we went wee On, out of sight of sonaneieee and smooth an by the shores of Y- livia and the great desert of Atacama, re-entered . the tropics after an absence of three months, close to the Chincha Islands, famous for th mense guano deposits, and on the evening of the 21st dropped anchor in Paraca , & little harbor lying between the peninsula of Paracas and the on a The following morning we paid our first THE “EMPIRE OF THE INCAS.” One party went ashore with seines, guns, botant- cal boxes, geological hammers, and all the para- phernalia of collectors, while another proceeded with Captain Johnson {n the gig to Pisco, a small sone on the coast about eight miles from our an- chorage. ‘ The heavy surf which beats on the beach and the swell immediately outside prevent vessels from cone ry hear the shore at that place, and a long pler of wood and iron has been built out into the sea for more than half a mile. The town itself was utterly uninteresting, the houses rudely and coarsely bullt, and the streets narrow and dirty. The inhabitants derive a large portion of their sul sistence from the sale of native liquors, called “Pisco” and “Italia,” and the streets were filled at some places with tall earthen jars labelled with one of thoge names. They also export great quantities of raw cotton. Alter gathering specimens on the beach for a short time we hired horses and rode to a fishing station not far off, in order to make arrangements for securing part of the next day’s haul. The set- tlement consisted of about one hundred huts, made by binding twigs or canes to cross-pieces runnin, between the corner posts, raftered sometimes wit! the bones of whales and roofed with skins, or often not covered at all, for this region is practically rain- less, and there have been exceedingly.few storms within the period of which we have any historical record—extending over some hundreds of years. The pepulghon. and especially the Juvenile portion, seemed far in excess of the accommodations, by virtue of that Jaw of increase giving the largest family to the man least able to support one. THE NUMBER OF BABIES AND VERY YOUNG CHILDREN of all sizes and shades of color was only equalled by the variety of curs, who playfully disported them- selves around our horses’ heels, and as the one ranged from those quite white, with an ancestry more Spanish than Indian to full-blooded Africans, so there was every imaginable grade of the other—from delicate grey- hound-like animals down to mongrels o! the lowest description. The women were sewing or washing linen in front of the huts, while almost Ue cesh above them on the eaves sat two or three Bor fi sleepy, aldermanic-looking buzzards. The children were playing cares with each other or the dogs, one poor little fellow resting a head so dis- tended from hydrocephalus that it dwarfed all the Test of his ly on the back of a patient terrier. The few men who were on shore were stretched out lazily in the sun, waiting the return of their companions from the fishing grounds. We could Just see their white sails far out at sea; but they steadily grew larger, until finally several little boats were brought Narn 4 through the breakers and landed on the beach. Their contents were ex- amined, the necessary arrangements made, and we rode back to the town. Our return to the ves- sel was effected with some difticulty. The breeze had freshened and caused a short chop- Ping sea; the bay was covered with ‘white caps;” the wind came out dead ahead and prevented any prone use ofour sails, and the sun had gone jown behind the islands in the West, and the moon rigen, fatally eclipsed, before we regained the ship. We found that the day had been extraordi- narily productive in every direction, a wonderful variety of specimens having been secured and im-- portant geological diseoveries having been made, MORE THAN TWENTY DIFFERENT SPECIES OF FISH were obtained, more than half of them entirely new. There were eight species of sharks alone, only three having ever been described as belonging to this coast. A seal was shot and skinned; gigan- tic turtles were be dant and many kinds of birds shot and prepared for mounting. Among the most interesting of the latter was the scissor-bill (rhyncops nigra), a species closely allied to one - Which is a bird of passage in tne Northern Hem- isphere and is usually found along the coast of New Jersey from early in May until the late autumn months. Their princi peculiarity isin the form of their beak, which, differing from that of a spoon- bill duck, is fattened eg | is very thin and sharp, and, unlike any other bird, has the lower mandible at least an inch and a half longer than the upper. They fly along the water in immense flocks, with this iower mandible half buried, and dexterously use it to bbe up small fish. e saw eo great numbers of a species of cormorant called the “shag.” Karly in the morning a few would come fying into the bay around the point of the peninsula, coming apparently from some of the islands. ‘The: would soon be followed by others, and then for fil- teen minates by a continual stream, sometimes in single file, sometimes in broad, densely-packed columns. They settled on the surface in a very limited area, looking from a distance” LIKE A SMALL ISLAND, and when for any reason they changed their loca- tion the flapping of their wings on the water sounded like the surf on a sea beach. The contrast between their manner of fying and that of the peli- cans is very noticeable. The cormorants take short, quick strokes, and keep the wings con- tinually.in motion; the others are more slow and plates in their movements, sailing rather than flying. A lican which was shet and preserved measured five feet from beak to tail and seven feet between the tips of his wings. Buzzards without number were seen, and also several magnificent condors. The next day—the 23d—was spent in a similar manner, collecting and continuing geo- logical investigations, and about sunset we started for our present station, and the followin, afternoon rounded San Lorenzo Island and anchored in Callas Bay—said to be the best harbor on the Peruvian coast. It is protected from the swell of the ocean by San Lorenzo, and the climate and prevalent winds from the south render it safe at all seasons. We will probably remain here a few days longer before leaving for the Galapagos Islands and Panama. THE EDGAR STEWART. a Arrival of the American Filibustering Steamer at Aspinwall—Her Attempt to Land in Cuba—Meeting by the Cubans on Board—Action of the United States Steamer Wyoming. Kreston, Jamaica, June 9, 1872. The filibustering sveamer Edgar Stewart, which escaped from the United States steamer Wyoming and the Spanish steamer Francisco de Borga on the 14th of May, arrived at Aspinwall on the 21st. After escaping from ker pursuers she made an at- tempt to run into the coast of Cuba, where she landed a boat with four men; but, having been seen by a Spanish gunboat, she again ran away in the direction of Jamaica. She was fired at several times, but her great speed enabled her to escape capture and reach Aspinwall. The boat from the Edgar Stewart reached Port Maria, on the north side of Jamaica, with the four men, who had been for three days without food or water. On the arrival of the Edgar Stewart at Aspinwall the Cubans on board rose against the captain because he insisted upon sailing for an American port, as he had been directed to do by the United States Vice Consul, while they were determined to landin Cuba, The Wyoming, however, hove in sight, and the captain of the Edgar Stewart immediately hoisted the American flag Union down, when @ boat was sent from the Wyoming to see what was the matter. ‘The Cubans, on seeing this, made their escape to the shore, and now threaten to assassinate the captain if they can only lay hold of him. The cap- tain of the Wyoming then took charge of the Edgar Stewart in the name of the United States government, to protect American interests, ‘The captain of the Edgar Stewart pow wishes to sell 700 stand of arms to pay off his crew, he having no money wherewith to discharge the obligations of the ship. It is believed the Cubans intended to have taken on board the cargo of the Virginius, which is lying at Aspinwall and to have sailed with it for Cuba, The government of the State of Panama are not pleased with the proceedings of the acting American Consul and Captain Davis, of the Wyoming, but beyond grumbling they take no part. THE GENEVA ARBITRATION, (From the Baltimore American—administration— June 18.) It is about time that John Bull was finding out whether he is going to join issue or not. If this effort to adjust long standing difficulties and settle the law of nations proves fruitless, the responsi- bility will not be with tne United States. We can afford to wait for the money which Englamt owes us, and if the piratical ni peivavoenes which she en- couraged during our civil war is to be sanctioned the law of nations we have less to lose thereby an she has. There is no telling at what day Great Britain may be a belligerent herself, and when that day comes her diplomatista may have the satisfac- tion of seeing how @ bad rule puay be made ta work both Ware, JAMAICA. The Mew Contract with the West India and Pa- cific Steamship Company for a Monthly Mail . Between Kingston and New York—The Improvements in Kingston—Open- ing of the Victoria Market, Kinaston, Jam., June 10, 1872. The new contract with the West India and Pacifie Steamship Company for a monthly steamer between Jamaica and New York will go into effect dn the 22d of July, when a steamer sails from Kingsten, A large body of merchants petitioned the govern. ment to set aside this contract in favor of the Paci- fic Mail Company, on the plea that 1t was an older, and therefore much more reliable, company than the West India and Pacific Steamship Company; @lso, that American citizens would prefer the As- Pinwall steamers, and it was better for Jamaica to have a steamer going elsewhere with New York Passengers than to have a purely local service. ‘The Governor replied that the contract had been already entered into, and that he could not on that account reconsider his action, but that the memo- rialists would find the contract with the West India and Pacific Steamship Company much more advan- tageous than any contract that could be made with the Pacific Mat! Company. It is whispered, however, that the new contrac- tors contemplate a network of steamers to connect at Jamaica in time for their mail boat for New York, and that the Governor alludes to this, which is for the present withheld from the public. Mr. Forwood, of Liverpool, is expected in a few days to arrange the periods of arrival and depar- ture and also the various routes to be opened, The Pacific Mail Company will ryn their last steamer under the existing contract on or about the 5th of July, and the new contractors will run thelr first steamer from Jamaica on or about the 22d of tnat month. It is currently reported that the Pacific Mall Company will not allow themselves to be driven out of the fleld in this way, but that they will run their steamers via Jamaica without any subsidy at all. ie THE TERMS OF THE NEW CONTRACT will best be explained in the language of the gov- ernment. Atarecent meeting of the Legislative Council the Colonial Secretary, after enumerating the number of applications that had been made for undertaking the service, went on tu say :— ‘The tender of Messrs. Leach, Harrison & Forwood, boing the most favorable, had been accepted, These gentle- men had undertaken to put on the line steamers of 1,000 tons gross register, with such power as to enable them to perform the voyage within six and a halt days, for the sum of £4, . The steamer will coal ani provi- sion at Kingston, where she will remain for two days in each trip, and at New York six days. ‘The vessels will be fitted up’ specially for the fruit trade, with satisfactor; passenger accommodation. ‘The freight will be $75 gol ber barrel, and five per cent primage. Cabln, passengers Will be chitged $80 for first class berths, and $35 for sec: class. The minimum «pace for freight both ways will tons, and the vessel will be subject to the approval of the Jamaica government. As these terms were considered the most favorable, Messrs. McDowell & Barclay were informed, as the agents of Messrs. Leach, Harrison & Forwood, that if they would accede to addi: tional conditions their tender would be accepted, and those conditions were—that w day be specified for ing from Kingston: that the vessel be two clear work at the wharf for loading before start page at New York be for five clear minimum space for freight of cai wa: that the steamer be specially fitted for fruit cargo, have also good accommodations for first class 8, ‘as well as second class, and that the class of vessels be subject to the approval of the Jamaica government; that the sp. such as to make the passage in 166 hours at most (six and a half days). Messrs, McDowell & Barclay intimated to the government that they were prepared to ‘accede to these additional conditions, and the govern- ment accepted the tender of Messrs. Leach, Harrison & Forwood. A SAGACIOUS GOVERNOR. The Governor is determined to do ail in his power to improve the appearance of Kingston and render it attractive to strangers. The magnificent new market, which has just been thrown open to the public;: the establishment of a beautiful garden on the public square, the erection of a public land- ing place, the collection in Kingston of several statues and other works of art scattered here and there in the different towns of the island, and the erection of a suit of public buildings, with archi- tectural adornments on a superior scale, will all, it is hoped and believed, and by none more so than the vernor himself, entitle Kingston to be re- | sabre with justice as the metropolis of the West — indies. T have referred to the opening of the new market. The ceremony took place on the 24th of May, the anniversary of the birth of the Queen, on which ac- count, on the suggestion of the Governor, the edi- fice has been named the “Victoria Market.” The event will be long remembered as one of the most popular that has occurred here for a long number of years. It was made the occasion for acco! to the Governor a public reception, a perfect ovation it became. ere were upwards of twenty thousand persons assem- bled, and there were colors flying, drums beating and rejoicing heard everywhere. At every street the Governor had to pass through triumphal arches were erected and a grand banquet was laid out in the new building, at which some hundreds of gen- tlemen sat down. Some highly interesting speeches were delivered, foremost among them being that of the United States Consul, who, on account of the flag he represents, is always welcomed with warmth at all such places. There are @ few dissatisfed spirits in our midst who are clamoring for a change of vern- ment, and who consequently predicted that the Governor's reception would have been a cold and insignificant affair, betokening the discontent of the public. They have been most grievously dis- appointed. There was a demonstration of loyalty to the Crown, and kind and grateful feeling to the Governor, such as have been witnessed on no simi- lar occasion betore except, perhaps, on the memo- rable revisit of Prince Alfred to Jamaica. . THE LOST COLON CABLE. The Attempts at its Recovery—No News of the Dacian—Sad Bungling in the Laying of the West India Cables. Krvaston, Jam., June 10, 1872, The steamer International has again returnett into port without any tidings of the lost Colon cable, to recover which at ieast a dozen attempts have been made. The whereabouts of the Dacian is not known at all, and people here begin to de- spair of the cable being ever found. This feeling is deepened by the news that the brig Venture, from Demerara to Halifax, had picked up on the 9th of May, adrift in the Gulf Stream, a buoy, to which was attached 700 fathoms of chain and about five hundred fathoms of telegraphic cable. There is no doubt that it is part of the lost cable, which has been swept far away from the latitude in which search is being made for it. Studdy Leigh, the great telegraph engineer, who has just touched here on his way to the Pacific, for the purpose of laying down several new lines, re- ports that a new enterprise has been entered upon for laying down a cable between Colon and St. Thomas, and that it will be carried out and in working order long before the connection between Colon and Jamaica can be made. The cable, he says, has already been manufactured, and is only leit to be conveved to the two points of con- nection and then to be paid out. This will interfere materially with the interest of the Panama and West India Oompany, whose main reliance for @ large business is upon the line to connect Jamaica with Colon, To say the least, the laying out of these West India cables has been a sad bungie. It is over two years since the first section was completed— | namely, the connection between Havana, by way of Batabano and Santiago de Cuba, and between | Santiago and Jamaica, and up to the present time | the wor so incomplete that opposition has been | excited in the minds of other capitalista who, re ceiving that a good enterprise is being damaged by a sort of “‘know-how-not-to-do-it" system of man- agement, are determined to enter the fleld—to go in and win. Before many weeks have passed away a new cable will be laid and communication opened up between the United States and Colon by way of St. Thomas. TANS. Notice for an Ante-Mortem—The Exami- nation not Take Yesterday morning Captain Caftrey, of the Twen- tleth Precinet, despatched a messenger in haste for Coroner Young, with the request that he imme- diately proceed to No. 500 West Twenty-eighth street, and take the ante-mortem statement ot John Lynch, thought to be in a dying condition from the effects of a stab received in the left side. Drs. Roberts and Armstrong, who had been in at- tendance upon the wounded man, thought it im- possible for him to live but a short tine, Coroner Young immediately responded to the summons, but on reaching the house found Lynch in @ much better condition than was rep- resented, and believing that his. wound would not prove to be his statement, was not taken oMtcially. it would appear,) however, that on Monday night, while Lynch was returning home with a friend, five Or, Six men ac- costed him, one of them saying “There goes another of ‘these sons of b—s.”” Lynch tarning around, faced the par' one of whom struck him, and in’ defeading himself he was stabbed in the back, shoulder and left side of the abdomen, after which the assailants Ree eee eenetiy rh m Lyueh Cyr sa being party. One prisoners is named Gove, Caffry and his officers are searuh. ing for the remainder of