The New York Herald Newspaper, April 20, 1860, Page 2

2 DIPLOMATIC TAILORING. Official Correspondence on Mr. Marcy's, Celebrated Dress Coat Circular, Reception of the United States Diplomats in the Plain Dress of American Citizens. WHAT FINE CROWNED HEADS MOUGHT OF ID. SOME LIKED If AND SOME DIDN'T. | Napoleon, Like a Sensible Man, Didn’t Care Hew the Americans Drewed, &e., &c., &C. Bressage of the President of the United Btates; Commundca, ;, im Compliance with a Resolution of the Senate, the In- structions and Correspondence Relative ‘te the Uniform or Costume of Persons in the Diplomatte er Co! lar Service. Yo Tux Senate oF THE Unrrep States:— ‘Im compliance with the resolution of the Senate, of tho ‘28th February laat, relative to the uniform or costame of persone in the diplomatic or consular service, | transmit & report jrom the Secretary of State, amd the papera by which it was accompanied. JaMes BUCHANAN, ‘Wasuincton, April 2, 1560. Dxrarruest ov State, April 2, 1860. The Secretary of Siate, to whom was referred tho Benate’s reeolution of the 28th February last, requosting the President, ‘if in his opinion not tn * public interest, to furnish to the Senate copies of all in Stractions, past and present, with regard to the uniform er costume of pertous in the diplomatic or consular ser- view, and also any correspondence with reference there- 40,” has the honor to lay before the President the docu- ments mentioned in the #ubjoined list, which are believed to conta’n all the Mformation in this department cailed for by the resolution The records of the department do net show tbat there was any instruction or reoommenda- tion to the diplomatic agents of the United States abroad ‘wpon the subject of uniform prior to that of Mr. Adams to Mr. Anderson of the 28th of May, 1823 It is understood, Rowever, that the uniform acopted by our mission to Ghent was informally recommended to all the United States diplomatic ageots who went abroad between the fod of the return of that mission and the action to Mr. Anderson referred to. An ‘matruction vpon ‘the eubdject, similar to that given to Mr. Anderson, was aleo addressed to ‘all other ministers about to go abroad, until the adminis- tration of President Jackson, when a change in the uni- form was recommended. The dress then recommended ‘was also recommended to all other ciplomatic officers ‘who rubsequently went abrowd, up to that period in the administration of President Pieroe when Mr. Marcy ad- dressed the circular upon the sabiook which 1s one of the mocompenyin; rs, Respecifully submitted, ‘The pease. = LEWI3 CASS. LIST OF PAPERS ACCOMPANYING THE REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF SPATE TO THE PRESIDENT. Memorandum of the dress of an American minister, as fixed by the miscion to Ghent, with an accompanying Mr, Adems to Mr. Anderson, 28th May, 1823. ExtPact from the personal instructions to the diplomatic agents of the United States, 1829 ‘Extract from cireular of let June, 1853. Ir. Fay to Mr. Maroy, 30th June, 1863 Extract. Mar. Sanford to Mr. Marcy, 18th August, 1863. Extract, Mr. Seibels to Mr. Marcy, SCth September, 1853. Ex- wact. ‘Mr. Daniei to Mr. Marcy, 10th October, 1858. Extract. | netween the simple manucr of m: by the ohief 6 y reception by s magisu ate of olay repablie in Earope meriging .9¢ | Dewe, and and circumstance still surrounding the Chief person): ¥ - which the american representative at @rov with questionable propriety, permitted by hi 2 to wear, rion. , TER #1RST APTEMYT IN * c corps no adore to the Yr gratulation 4 ot Euror - “6; without apy sacrifice of digaity or amour propre Mr. Vreom to Mr. Marcy, Slat October, 1853. Extract. Mr. Belmout to Mr. Mercy, sth November, 1863. Ex- ‘rect. Mr. Schroeder to Mr. Marcy, 2th November, 1853. Extract. ar. Belmont to Mr. Marcy, 25th November, 1863. Ex- wact Mr. Sanford to Mr. Marcy, 224 January, 1854. Mr. Wasson to Mr. Marcy, 28th January, 1854. Extract. Mr. Buchenan to Mr. Marcy, 7th February, 1854. Ex- Marcy to Mr. Sanford, 18tb February, 1854. . Buchanan to Mr. Marcy, d4th February, 1854. Ex- Belmont to Mr. Marcy, 28th February, 1864. Ex- , Sanford to Mr. Marcy, 12th March, 1854. Mr. O'Sullivan to Mr. Margy, 28th Jome, 1854, Ex- Mr. Bocbanan to Mr. Marcy, 15th June, 1855. Extract. Mr. Sanford to Mr. Cass, 19th January, 1860. / MEMORANDUM OF TEE DRESS OF AN AMERICAN MINIS- TER AS FIXED BY THE MISSION TO GHENT. A Dive coat, hned with white gtk; straight standing eape, embroidered with gold, single breasted ; straight or button holes, sightly embroider Buttons plain, or, if they can be had, with the artillerista’ eagle stamped upon them, ¢, an’ eagle flying, with a wreath mks mouths grasping Habinlog in one of its talons, Cuffs embroidered in the manver of the cape, with cassimere Breeches, gold knee buckles, white silk’ stockings, and gold or gilt ehoe buckles A three cornered chapeaa: bras, ‘Bet so large es those veed by the French, nor so smt'las ‘those of the English. A black cockate, to which ately an eagie bas been attached. Sword, &o., corresponding. ‘The secretaries have the same cosinme, with the ex- ‘eeption that their coats have less embroltery than that of the minater. 1 ‘Itie veua! at all Furopean courts, on what are caliod days, such as birthdays of the sovereign, mat @f princes of his family,and other extraordiaary occa wions, for the foreign ministers, as well as other persous ‘af distinction connected with the court, to appear in uni- ferms more eplendid with ero>roidery than upoa occa- gions of ordinary levees, drawing rooms and d'ploms. Mo circles. A decent respect for the usages of the coarts, ‘and a suitable compliance with forme there established. make it proper that the minister of th Unites States ehould this custom, and wear,on thoze occasions, @ coat jo that above deecribed, but embroidered round skirts and down the breasts, ss well as at the nod o game. The coats to be distinguished as the great and the mmall uniform. There should be a whits ostrich feather ‘or plomet in the minister’s hat, not standing erect, but sewed round the brim. All the pereons attached to the Iegation wear the same wniferm as the Secretary, and peed to baye only ome. ‘Daranrunt oF Srate, Nov. 6, 1817. ME. ADAMS TO MR. ANDERSON. DeragrMext OF st Wasmaron, May 28, 1823. ce SMe Se Batra i i the nd cape, all the other parts of tho dress remaining ae er * ae eagiaiel deeign of the uniform worn by the Minis- fers of the United States at foreign courts, on occasions ‘when fall dreer is required. In the monarchical go- -vernments of Europe, Minister of the United States is ed to con‘orm to the establighed usages of appearing fn tho pce of the sovereigaim ® court dross. He @annot, indeed, celiver his credential letter withoat it, md this uniform was adopted for the couveniencs of the same dress upon all necessary occasions, and at every court, * <5 * SBXYRACT FROM THE PERSONAL INSTRUBTIONS TO THE DIPLOMATIC AGENTS OF THE UNITED STATES, ADOPTED AT THE COMMENCEMENT OF TA ADMINIS- RATION OF PRESIDENT JACKSON. . From a proper degree of respect to what is uzderstood to be the usage adopted oe governments, requiring the members of the diplomatic body accredited near ‘them to wear a court dress upon certain occasions, such as their presentation to the sovereign or chief executive @Moers, the President has thought proper to adopt the Sellowing as the drees to be used by the diplomatic agents ef the United States upon al! such occasions, being recom- mended as well by its comparative cheapness as by its ‘adaptation to the simplicity of our institutions, namely: ‘@ black coat, with a gold star on each side of the collar mear its termination; the under clothes to be black or ‘white, at tne option of the wearer; a three-cornered cha- pean ce bras, with » black cockade and gold eagle; and a ‘eel mounted sword with white scabbard. It is to be maderstood, however, that the use of thie particlar dress is ibed by the President Itis barely suggested, by his |, 8 &@D appropriate and convenient uniform Gress for the use of the diplomatic agents of the United ‘Mibtes residing near foreign governments. ‘HE NEW ORDER OF THINGS—THE CELEBRATED MARCY CIRCULAR, Extract from cirowar, died Departsiont We State, June . enka a casas eons tet o foreign countrics, are hereafter to be observed :— i | this cannot be done. goveromeat, ‘without Boarest approach to mance of his duties, is The simplicity CK our usages, among our people are mac! nl eared ot mind first aad Fepresentative at a ro court than has since prevailed. ra ‘ = be re- there was ever any departure Pr mpect ¢ example of Dr. Franklin, History bas re- and commended this example, 80 congenial to the our institations. The department is de. Femoving all obstacles to a return to the simple unostentatious course which was deemed so proper, was so much in the ecarlicat days of the iblic. Itia our purpose to culitvats the most amica. relations with all countries, and this we believe can Knees fog 4 Tequiring our diplomatic f | HY ag ef §8 l 3 & a) i in i 3 ant ad 7 in this from what oS. what is suits! nts of our fellow citizens at hoa: im regard to whatis called diplomatic u withdrawn, each of our rep-e- Will be left to regulate tris ywn sense of propriety, and with we Of ile government a8 hereia | * W. L. MARCY. WAS RECEIVED BY THE SWISS GOVERNMENT— ‘MR, FAY TO Mm. MARCY. j Lxaation or tae Unirep a} l ? : i | « i NEW YORK HEP ALD, FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 1860.-TRIPLE SHEET. the most ancient in the world, and the p»ap yg The absurd and expensive Pa 4 ‘omnia, mn s I" ment ver required in Switzerl- i 6 ae be * * * «@EODSRE S. FAY. -ethry Of State, «ARIS—MR. BANDFORD TO MR Makoy, ATION OF THR UntrED em} Pans, Augast 18, 1868, * * monarchies is ne Hon. Witrrar L Marcy, Seer Sin:— * ” ym the cceasion “.¢ the reception of tho diplomatic «8 was made. The em} sad 2? onsmndor of + —Eogland, in taking - thank the diplomatic corps for their c22- What delights me most ia to #ec the peace firmly establiehed; for such, at least, do 1 con oe partof any pation.” At this reception, at a dinner given by tho Minister of “Foreign Affairs to ‘the diplomatic corps, aud at a svirée afterwards at the Tuillerivs,1 deemed i; my duty (all }Fevious instructions respecting diplomatic uciform belag Withdrawn by your circular instructions of Jane 1) to appear in citizen’s dress. The position in which I fouad myself was one of some delicacy and embarrassmen:. ‘The instructions had not been received by ma from the department. They had, however, been published in the Rewspapers of the Uaited States as having been comma nica! yy it; they had been extensively republished and commented upon by leading journals here and throughout Europe, avd had been the frequent sabject of convereation in political circles where Iwas present, I hed already, 80 far a8 I could witheut detriment to ths public fervice, acted in conformity to the desires therein ex. pressed concerning details in the business of the Legation. 1, therefore, a8 the only proper course for me to parsue, determine? to act tn conformity with the spirit of those instructions ; the mage so—as they2uad reeeived the ap- probatiob of our coufMrymen abroad, and were in accord- ance with my own sentiments. ‘As such a change could pot but attract attention. I deemed it due, as an act of courtesy, toinform the Minister of Foreiga affairs of my intentions. I accordingly told him, in s conversatien I had with him a few days since, thst my ment having withdrawn iis former instructl specting the uniform of its diplomatic agents, and having expressed the cesire that thoy should appear on official occasions in the simple dress of an American citi- zep, I should #0 appear atthe dinner to which be had dons me the honer to invite me, as well on the two occasions to which ] have been invited to appear at court; that I felt pereuaded that my £0 appearing Would neither be misin- terpreted or misunderstood; and that this change of tress, or @ retu’n to the original simplicity which had dis- tivgnished our firet diplomatic representative here, vould not be regarded as signifying any charge in the senti- ‘ments of the government end peop'e of the United States towards France, and whose desire was to cultivate the most amicable relations with our ancient ally. Mr. Drouyn de L’fluys replied to me, with great cordi- , that this could not affect injuriousiy those relations; the acting in this matter in conformity to the wishes, uctions «nd usager of the government, could not be avy subject of complaint; and thet he weuld be most bappy to see me in this garb if I desired it. He added, oo aa that he would make the subject understood at cou . His Majes'y received the mission with attention and with great good will. * * * * * H. 8. SANFORD. Hon. Wn11ax L. Mancr, Secretary of State. THE BELGIAN CHARGE FOLLOWS 8SUIT—MR. SEIBELS TO MR. MARCY. Legation oF THe Usrrep States, Brvsskis, Septembor 30, 1853. * * * * * wee sm— * * The instructions of the department relative to uniform, which, allow me to eay, were conceived in a proper spirit and regard for the dignity and respect due our own go- vernment and country, I have #0 far, and intend in fature, strictly to carry out. "And J will add, the’ it 1s much to be regretted that a morbid sensibility to the ridiculous customs and formalities of the courts of Europe has here- tofore induced the diplomatic and other agente of the United States residing here to depart so far from the cug- toms, habits and tastes ef their own country. * * * J. J. SEIBELS. Hon. Wnuum L. Marcy, Secretary of State of the United States, Washington. THE KING OF SARDINIA 18 EQUALLY AM(ABLE—MR. DANIEL TO MR. MARCY. LaGatioy or Tax Urirao Srarrs, Turin, Oct. 10, 1853. * * * * so « ‘Av the conclusion of my visit the Minister desired to know whether I should like to be presented to the ae After : in accordance with the principles and sentiments of the United States that its agents should hereafter appear at court in the respectable attire of American citizens than in uniforms which have no significance in our social system; that discretion was left to them in the matter; but, while I would not like to offend against the customs and maq ners of a foreign country, my personal preforences were wa aly {in favor of pursing my instructions in thelr leer and spirit. The Minister very politely expressed his acquiescence in the good senge and propriety of the instructions refor- Ted to, and stated it to be bis belief that there would be no difliculty on that score at court. * * * JOHN M. DANIEL. Hon. Wni1aM L. Marcy, Secretary of Stave. THE PRUSSIAN COURT ADHERES TO THE OLD FORMS —MR. VROOM TO MR. MARCY. Lagarioy oF Tux Usirep States, Buxuy, Ostober 81, 1853 Sr:— * * * * * * * On the 1st instant 1 prepared a note to the President Minister, Baron Manteufel, in‘orming him of my arrival, and I desired an audience of the Kiog to present my cre- dentials. After calling several times, I was euablod to gee the Baron in perton, and preseated to him acopy of my letter of credence. Ia this interview I took occasion to state thet it was the derire of my government that her represertatives should appear at foreign courts without costume and in citizsn’s dress, and that I was prepared and desirous so to appear; but, in this change, no possible disrespect was intended to his Majesty, or to any other sovereign by my government. Tne Biron iaquired whether my predecessor, Mr. Barnard, bad not a appeared in costume, to which it was replied in the mative, and with the explanation that the views of the gov- erpment, as in sica‘ed, were contained in recent iaatructious Tecetved’ by all her representatives. The Baron stated ‘that he would shortly see his Majesty, and would after. wards communicate with me. On the 12th instant I received an official note from the Baron, from which ft was evident that his Majesty would not consider an appearance before him without c2s- tume respectful. I was disappointed in this; Dut thoughtit inexpedient to insist upon this point without instructions, when euch insistment would probably be Prejudicial. I immediately informed the Baroa that I could not during the week be prepared for a presentation, Dut would be happy to be presented at any time the week following; and in the interim I procared a very plain and * * * * * simple dress. * P. D. VROOM. Hon. Wiuaw 1. Marcy, Secrotary of Stato, &. AGREEABLE EXPERIENCES OF THE CHARGE TO HOL- LAND—MR. BELMONT TO MR. MARCY. LeGanon or THE Unite States oF AMERICA, AY THE Haausy Nov. 8, 1853. } * * * Si: * ~ I wag presented to the King by the Minister of Foreign Affaire. Mr. Van Hall hei informed me previously that the King consented to recelve me in citizen's dress,as I hed insisted upon it, but that evidently my wearing uuiform wou'd have been. better liked. To this observation I did not deem it neces- sary to make any further reply, except tha’ the instruc- ong and wishes of my government had to be my guide; and I went, therefore, to the audience in plain citizen’s dress, while the King, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and his aids-de-camp. the only persons present, were in full uniform, and covered with stars and decorations. My eudience lasted about a quarter of an hour, aud the con- versation was limited to a few commonplace Inquiries and replies in regard to my voyage, my arrangemonte for = ‘house, Now that have been received by the Kin in civil dress. I aball, of course, dispense with any kin: of uniform all future presentations to the Queen and other members of the royal family, as well as on all other occasions * ® ofceremony. * AUGUST BELMONT. Hon. Wizuam L. Mancr, Secretary of State, Washington. ACTION OF THE SWEDISH GOVERNMENT—MA. SCHROE- DER TO MR. MARCY. Lucanion oF THe Usiten Statzs, Stockholm, November 24, 1853 } Ses 265%) Mad? 9; 8 Oe 6 Oe T must not loze the opportunity of informing you of the Fegult of my endeavors to carry out the wishoi of the de- partment in relation to diplomatic uniforms. On the re- ceipt of the ciroular upon the subject, as heretofore duly acknowledged, I lost mo time in vommunicating the sab- stance of my instructions te Baron Sticrneld, the Minister for Foreign Affaire; and at the seme time I informed htm of my great desire to execute them in all respects, Our conversation was not at that tims productive of any deq- nite result. The King was tobe absent for a jong time, and there was to be no Court ceremony for some months tocome. The Court returned to town on the 16th instent, and on the 224 1 received a note from the Grand Cham- beriain, inviting me, on the part of the King, to bs pre- sent at the ceremonies of thiajmorning. At the end of the note was the usual notification that the Court would be in fall dress. It was tho first Court occasion which I was to attend, since carly in May, when I had the honor to dine ‘with the Royal family prior to their leaving towa. 1 ia- ‘ediately, therefore, called upon Baron Stierneld, and re- peated my wish to present myself in the simple dress of ‘an American citizen. 1 took occasion to say that ral of my colleagues at other Courts had had this hoaor, aad it would be very agreeable to me to anderstand that no objection would be made in this instance. sent tet end oe with much aoe he assur government and to myrelf individually the foaligs ot the King wi most cordial description, and if 80 the court etiquette could be made, it would be done as cheerfully in this instance ag in connection with any other Ske Bie F ena himself give me Sreply, but he would see the King for the Ree “pep Within an hour Is I received from h ried note, inviting me to call at the offiss open Affairs, if poesible, immediately. Idid #0, and after re. ceiving me with even more than hie usual kindness, he informed mo he had already seen the King. «! mals your ition,’ he continued, ‘precisely as you ex. a and he charged me to repiy Precisely in these * “Say to Mr. Shroeder that it givoe mo great 9} all times to see Mrs. Schroeder and hinolf, Bat tue ott quette of my houte is subject to regulations which can- not be waived for one in preference to another. fa an audienoe of business i will receive him in any dreas hig government may presortbe, but in the society of ray fa- mily and on occasions of court no one can be received but in court dress, in conformity with established custom. I cannot for a moment suppose that any sach matter can impair the excellent friendly understanding existing be- a, Jape #0, 1863. : tween the Americant governmont and oursel co ‘apply alike to the representatives of all t * e these regulations Fepald aot refrain from making a fevorsble comparisoa | Governmenis; and prey repest to Mr, Sbroeder that I hope th-" die’ _ -«¢ nothing will interrupt the amloable and cor- * a@entiments which I personally regard bimes f. fail thie with much kipdness.on my part.” ~~ 4 Boon: meesag® Baron Stierneld repeated te bo ‘UUme, in orcer, ag he sald, that I might write it,f I thought P |, a8 from the lips of the King. "Teer appeared thus to be no alternative but to accede; ‘and {t remained for me to express my acknowledgmonts of the kinéness and courtesy of the meseage, and to thank Baron Stierneld aleo for the kindness eviaced by himeelf. Accordingly, 1 went to the Cour: this morniog in the drese I had eae worn there, and which, { may take oo- | casion to say, is in its charscier, I think, to perfect con- formity with the recommendations you have provided, in the event of the imporsbility of our representatives abroad appearing tn citizen's dress, In concluding, I will merely add that I ought not, per- haps, to have been surprised at the result of my proposi- tion.” My appearance at Court in piain clothes would have been likely to be regarded by the Swedish government in the light of a spirit of republican propagandiem I am satis! that no society in Europe is more jealous in its maintenance of aristocratic symbols; aud the King him- seif, although on many subjects a man of unasually large and liberal intellect, igid conservative in all the au- tque ceremonies and exactions of bis Cuurt. F, SOFROEDER. Hon. Wits L Marcy, Secretary of State, ME. BELMONT TAKES THE BULL» BY THE RORNS— MR. BELMONT TO MR. MARCY. LxGavioy oF tHe Usirep States Or AMFRICA, | At Taw Hacus, Nov. 25, 1863. } Sm— * * * * * * Sinee the date of my last desvatch I had my audience of the Queen Mother, where I was presented at ths same Yime with the Brarilian Minlaver and the Eugitsh Charge @’Aflairs ad interim, Sir Ralph Abercrombio Belng absent at present. The Queen Mother ig noted for her extreme ponctiliousnees {a matters of ceremony, and many anee- dotes are related of her, where she reeented with actuai rudeness any infringement thercof by members of her household, er even of the diplomatic corps. Some of my collegues, amopg whom my appeering at my auticnce in citzen"6 dress bas created a good many observations, had edvised me to noti’y the Queen Mother of my inten: tion not to appear m uniform; but, as I had not done so ip the case of the reigning Queen, covsidering thet my re- ception by the King was a euificient precedent for all future oocastons, I thought it more diguified and appro- priato not to follow this atvice, and aaked, therefore, simply and in the usual form for my audience. Thore Was & grcat deai more ceremony at this Itttle court than others at the Ki or Queen’s. Besites the ladies of bonor, there were # grand taster, a number of chanber- taips, and the above named diplomats, all ‘a full uniform, with the exception of myself. * . * * AUGUST BELMONT. Hon. W. L. Mancy, Secretary of Stato of the United States, Washington. ’ ox | Xf © A NEW MINISTER AT THE TUILLERIES, AND A NEW REGIME—MR. SANFORD TO MR. MARCY. ‘LxGATION oF Tite Uxrrep States, Paris, January 22, 1854 Sir—Thave the honor to tender to President, through you, my resignation of the oilice of Secretary of this Lega- Von, to take effvct as soon a& I can reosive his permission to leave my post. I beg you, atthe same time, to offer my acknowledgments to him’for the marke of his confl- dence, as shown tn cenfiding to me for a period the charge of this miseion, and in retaining me in my office as secre- tary under the new minister. T deem it my duty to state briefly my reasons for an apparently abrupt resolution to resign at a moment when it might ‘be presumed that my long perience here ought to render my services particularly ‘acceptable to the Minister, and consequentiy to the gov- ernment, which, there is reason to believe, was uncer the eats that it would also be agreeable to me to remain. Your instructions of the lst of Juve, 1853, addressed to the diplomatic sgents of the United Scates, withdraw the previons regulations on the subject of diplomatic uniform, and express in clear and s'rong terms the wishes of the government that its agente should thereafter retarn to the unostentatious and simple course of the early period of the Republic, and appear at the couris to which they are accredited in the plain dress of. an American citizen, as was formerly tho custom abroad, and which has never been departed from at home. etionary provision is made for the avoidance of apy difficulties which may exist in following this course; but where no obstacles arise, the discretionary provision remains in abeyance, and the wishes of the government are left in fuil force as a rule for its agénts, without qualification. Tn this view, I have considered it my duty to be gov- erned by the instructions; and bave, consequent the numerous occasions on which I have since been called upon to appear et court, presented myself in the drees recommendea by the department. In my ¢eapatch to youof the 18th of August last (No. 24), 1 informed you of my interview with the Minister of Foreign Affairs, On which occasion, asan act of courtesy to his government, I communicated to him the change which I intended to make, ia compliance with the new ia- structions from my ernment, (which had been published in the Union newspaper, as beving en communicated to it from the State Dapart- ment, and bad thus become a matter of public notoriety and general comment), expressing my conviction that the French government would see in this change nothing which could indicate the least disrespect, nor anything in compatible with the liveliest wishes to cultivate the most friendly relations, but simply the desire of my govern- ment to return to its ancient and appropriate usages, which were established.in fact by the distinguished inii- vidual, the firet diplomatic representative near tho French pee 7 and were marked by the approbation of the rt of the Tuilleries. Taleo stated to you that the minister received my re- marke in a friendly and cordial masner, aod replied, in substance, that this could not iojuriously effect our rela- tions, and that acting thus in conformity with the wishes and instructions of my government and its own usages could not be a subject of complaint. In continuation, [ advieed you of my first appearance at court m the dregs of an American citizen, on which occa- sion the Emperor Pr opted me with marked attention, which, with the fri¢hdly tenor of his conversation, con- firmed in my mind the impressions made by his minieter, that ze would or could be made, and that none was fel I bave since followed this ueage on all occasions of in- tercourse, whether of a festive or more formal official character, and have had no reason to doubt the propriety or expediency of this course, but the contrary. Mr. Mason baving informed me that it was his determmation, afer presenting his letters of credence, to Qj at court in « uniform, ppear renders my further official intercourse with the court im- practicable, unless I ‘retarn to the lation which by your circular is withdrawn, and what, I may be permitted 10 gay, is also of some weight, conveys the apparent dis- approbation of the government to the couree which, un- der its instructions, I have followed. Unable, therefore, to continue this usual official inter- course, that the public service at this legation may expe- rience no embarrazsment, | consider It my duty to retire, and shall await the permission of the President, as before stated, for that purpose. In the meantime I shall con- tinue fo devote my services to the dlities of the office. H. 8S. SANFORD. Hon. Wim L. Marcy, Secretary of State. MR. MASON DEFINES HIS POSITION--MR. MASON TO MR. MARCY. ee Fyfe th Tee” } ARIS, Jan. &m— * * * Lhasa ae * With_your despatch No. 1, dated the 4th of November, uldmo, you communicated to metwo printed papers, nam- bered three. The first is entitled, “‘personal instructions to the ciplomatic agents of the United States in foreign countries,”’ ana the second isa circular letter from tae ‘State Department, dated on the Ist of Jane, 1863, ‘“pre- scribing additional instructions” to be obeerved by such agents. As was my duty, | carefully examined them, and, as on the occasion of my presentation at the coart, Thave been called upon to construc them, I deem it to be my duty, for-the information of the department, to extend this dispatch in reiation to one of the eubjects embraced in those ingiructions, In the paragraph in the firat of these printed instructions on the subject of uniform, recit- ing, “that from a proper degree of respsct to what ie un- derstood to be the usage adopted by som> governments requiring the members of the diplomatic aroredited near them to wear a court dress on certain occasions,” the diplomatic agents of the United States were informed Uhat the President bad thought proper to adopt a specific uniform dress to be worn by them, but they were told that it was not to be understood that the use of that par- ticular dress was prescribed by the President; it was barely suggested by his direction as an appropriete and convenient uniform dregs for the diplomatic agen 3 of the United States resiving near foreign government. Under this inetruction, I understand that my predeces- sors at ¢his court, certainly for many years, felt it to be their duty to wear a uniform drees on certain oocasions, ana, in the discresion given them, modified the form prescribed according to their own sense of propricty. The circular of June last, ins nh on the same subject, instructs each representative of the United States ‘at a foreign court, upon Occasion of his reception, to conform, as far as is consistent with his devotion to re- Publican institutions, to the .customs of the country wherein he is to reside, and with the rules prescribed for representatives of his rank,” ‘“‘and the department en- courages, ns far as possible, without impairiog his use- fulnees to his couo try, his appearauce at Courtin the siwple drees of an American citizen.” Should there, however, be cases, says the circular, where this cannot be done, owing to the character of the foreign govern. ‘ment, withous detriment to the public interest, the nearest approach to it, compatibie with the due formance of his duties, is earnestly recommended. Declaring the purpose of the government of the United States to be to cultivate the most amicable relations with all countries, this paragraph conclades thus:—All in- atructions in re; to what is called diplomatic ualform or court Gress, withdrawn, each of our representa- tives in other countries will be left to regulate the matter ‘according to his own sense of propriety, end with a duo reepeot, to the views of his government as herein ex- preesed.”” carefully considered these instructions. They do not prescribe, nor do they forbid-the adoption of a uaiform dress, in performing the ceremonies of the court, nor in Social intercourse, but leave to the representative of the country, who is on spot, and can judge of the ‘ex! of the circumstences in which he is placed, to coneider and decide for himeelf, Their obvious construction required of me to ob- serve republican simplicity, as far as practiceble, but to evince all preper respect for this fevernment, by con- foming to its ueages, and to the regu prescribed for ministers of my rank. I was instructed with tho discre- tion, in view of the character of the government to which Tam accredited, to reguiate the maiter of my dress ac- cording to my own sense of propriety, but enjoined not 30 to act as, by wounding its pride or disregarding its wishos, to impair my usefulness in my intercourse with the Emos- ror’s government. My own predilections wore decitedly in favor of the simplest dress of the American citizen; but of ceremony and etiquette at the court has steadily in- crehsed since the Emperor’s aasession to power, ani is pow extreme. Of the thirty-cight delegates ac’ this court from other countries than the U: whether they represent imperial, royal or governments, the ministers appear at court in vaiform, nivipg external evidence that they belong to ths diploma. tic corps. Every citizen or subject, whether of France ora fhe form of governmont here is imperial, the obsorvance | ' with the distinctive evidence ef ‘his class, so that it may Be kaon Tocoguized Saas wits large piv icges of fo corps is @ Fr wi 9 privile - 35 es national hospitality hed gh it by the oyernment, and to secure their observance, each mom- fer ‘of this corps from other countries exhibits the evi- dence of his belonging to it by his dress, varying accord- ing to the orders of his government or his own sense of ropriety. td This S the condition of things which I believe exiais here at this me, and the usefulness of every minisvse of a foreign country depends in no smell degree uvon his availing bimeelf of opportunities of associatvon with thoee who direct or jaflaence the operations of govern- ment, without embarraesment or restraint growing out of a disregard of their wishes or regulations ta respeot to bis ature. I arrived in Paris with an earnost desire that nothing ‘would occur which would induce te to consider it neces sary to adopt any other than the, strapons citizen's dress, atapy time. Ifeltitto be my duty, however, to inform myself as to the degree of raportance which the imperial government attached 10 ‘be subject, and oa the 11th of January I bad an informal conversation with M. Droiyn de L'Huys, the Minte‘er of Foreign Alfairs, and made known tobim tbat t ‘was my intention when { presented my credentials, "se duplicate of which I had givea him the day before, Yo appear in a suit of p!ain biack clothes— “tbe simple drees of an American citizen’’—and tat I desired to be informed whether it would be regarded as wanting in reepect to the imperial government. He said thet be would take the Emperor’s order as to my presen- tation, ond would converse with mo freely aud frankly on the subject now suggested. I impressed on him that 1 raised no question for the Emperor's decision as to my dress, but only sovgbt information, On the 16th I re- ceived a note from the Minister requesting me to call the next day at the Foreign Oflce, as he wished to coa- verse with me, I attended at the hour named, and was mmedietely admitted. He informed me that the Emperor elt an apxions desire to establish official relations with me, as the representative of the United States, and would receive me to present my credentials in the costume I had indicaied. He added, that as the iastrac- tions o: my government bad withdrawn all order prescri- bing costume, and left it to my own discretion, it would bave been sgreeable to the Emperor, if I bad felt at liber- ty, onthe occasion of estadiishiog official relations with Die government, to bave conformed, in some: dogree, te the vesge of ministers of my rapk at hiscourt. Iexpressed my satisfaction at the Emperor’s readiness to receive me ‘as I proposed, disclaimed all intention of disrespect, and aseured him that my purpose was simply to carry out, 60 far at practicable, the wishes of my government, distinct ly made known in the order t> which he referred; but that those wishes were not inconsistent with the obeer- vance of entire reepect for the imperial government. He stated very fairly and frankly the regulations in regard to costume at court, and the reagons for it. 1 thanked him for the information he had given me, and retired. I delivered my credentials to the Emperor in the simple drees of an American citizen. Beyond Tdid not deem it consistent with my duty to my own government to ask apy exemption from those usages and regulations of the court which were conformed to by all other ministers of foreign countries accredited here, ana proper respect for this government forbade my insisting on having ciation, however important tm my official duties, in any other inode than that which would be entirely volun to me the advantages of personal intercourse and asso- | attempt to remove an erroneous impression embodied in the letger tendering your to the President, I deom % fit and proper at the ‘Ume to say thet your ‘course of official conduct, partioularly in the matter refer- red 10, is approved and commen ted ; and it is a source of regret that any of our mipisiers re nting their country abroad have found themselves so situatud that they have felt obliged, by considerations connected with the public interest, to take @ somewhat different ovurse. In this respect they bad @ discretion, and the department je vot disposed to Fay that it has not been ee exer. cleed. w. MAROY, Heyry Saerron Saxrorp, Eeq , &o. MR. BUCHANAN APPEARS AT COURT IN THE SIMPLE DRESS OF AN AMERICAN CITIZEN.—MB. BU- CHANAN TO MR. MAROY, Lecation or tie Usiten Stars, Loxpox, February 24, 1854 J . ses . * a question of court costume bas been finally, netted to my entire gatisfaction, 1 appeared at the Queen's levee on Weanesday jast in the very cress which you have often seen me wear at the President's levees, wilh the ox- ception cf a very plain biack-handied aad biack-bilt dress sword, and my reception was ali that Icoald ha desired. Iam confident they are es well pioased as myself that this emall alfair-Las ended. I have never felt prouder, ag @ citizen of my country, than when I s\ood amidst the brilliant circle of foreiga mipisters and other court digni’aries, “in the simple dress of an American citizen.”” I think I cannot be mistaken in gaying that the epondsrance of public opinion in England is deciiedly B'tavor rf the circular. Many ¥. the moat distinguished liberal membera of Parliament have never appeared at court, simply because they would not consent to wear the prescribed costume. I have purposely avoided to mention the names of those with whom I have had interviews on this subjext, lest it might expore them to censorious remarks hereafter; but having mectioned that Sir Hdward Cust, the master of ceremonies, in my olspatch No. 13, of the 23th of October Jast, it is but an act of simple justice to state that, at the court on Wednerday lest, his attentions to me were of the kindest au< most marked character, and have placed me under many obligations. In the matter of the sword, I yielded without reluctance to the earncst gestion of a om- cial character, who said thi sword, at allthe courts of the world, was coneidered morely ag the mark of a gentleman ; and although he did not mention the q name, yet it was evident from the whole conver . that this was desired as a token of respect to her majesty. He had, on former occasion, expressed the hope that I ‘would wear sometning indicating my official position, and ‘Dot to appear at court—to employ bis own language—in the dress I wore upon the street. I told him promptly I sbould comply with his suggestion, and that in wearin; | sword at court, as an evidence of the very high rear which I felt for her Mayesty, I shoula do nothiog inoon- sistent with my own character as an American citizen, or that of my country, I might have added, thet as the “simpje dress of an American citizen” is exactly that of the upper court servants, it was my purpose from the be- inning to wear something which would distinguish me om them. At the first] had thought of United States buttons ; but a plain aress sword has a more manly and udy appearance. I hope Iam now done with this forever. * * * JAME3 BUCHANAN, W. L. Mancy, &c., &o. tary avd agreeable. I became satisfied py my own ob- servation, by conversation with the minister, and by infor- mation from various sources entitled to my implicit respect, that the form of the government, its and regula- tions, required that I should mbdify my drees when I went to court on such occasions; otherwise I would offend the seneibilities of those whem it was my duty to concili- ate, debar myself from important means of information and facilities of promoting the interests of my country, and thus impair my usefu'nere as ber representative, cauge of a question of dress, which I had no right to make with the Emperor’s government, and which my own overnment had made it my duty to decide for myself. e course of conciliation was strongly recommended to me by the present and prospective condition of affairs on this continent, the relations of European nations with each otber, and the greatinteretts of my own country which must be affected by those relations. Thoroughly convinced that my duty required me to do 20, I attended at the Tuilleries on Monday evening, ins simple uniform dress, and presented to the Emperor and Empress @ Jarge number of my countrymen, and the la- dies of their families, who had been invited to partake of the hogpitalities of the palace, which they covid hot have evjoyed without having been firet presented. On such occasions, I ¢: to continue to conform to usage. The department is already informed that Mr. Sanford, Charge d’ Affaires ad inicrim, adopted a course in some respecte different from that which I have taken. I regret there was not a coincidence of opinion between us in this regard. It can hardly be necessary for me to say that, in the views which I have expressed in this de- spatch, I have no intention to call in question the proprie- z of his decision as to the rule of conduct for himself in e circumstances in which he was placed. I must ask your indulgence for the space which I have devoted to this subject. Having no knowledge of the views of the department, other 1 that afforded by the printed instructions which I have been called on to inter- pret, I could hot say leas and present my views fally. * * J. Y. MASON, Hon. Wniuu L. Marcy, Secretary of State. MR. BUCHANAN’S DIFFICULTIES IN ENGLAND—MR. BU- CHANAN TO MR. MAROY. LuGarion oF Tam Ustreo Staves, Loxnon, Feb. 7, 1854. Sr: * * . . * You will perceive by the London journ' the Morning Post, the News, the Morning Her fator, the Kzaminer, Lloy you, thet my ‘absence from the House of Lords, ning of Parliament, bas produced quite a sensation. deed, I have found’ difficulty ‘House of Commons. me, and hag arisen entire); offepsive remark of the which that opening of from an Indiscreet and ri e Parliament. But for this the q! deeired. * Some time after my interview with Sir Edward Cast, the master of ceremonies, in October last (whom I have Dever seen since), which I reported to you in my determined, aiter due reflection, neither to wear gold Jace nor em- this ‘he spirit of your circular, as well as my derpatch No. 18, of the 28th of October, I Droidery at court, and 1 did not hesitate to expréss bap ee . if eS 4 Own sense of propriety, brought me to this conclusion. did not deem Qotcomiag in me, as the ‘& republic, to imitate a court costume whi gether proper in the representatives of royalty, A minis. ler of the United States ehould, in my opinion, wear some- alg, the Times, the Spec- ds, &e., copies of which I send it the ope- in- im preventing this incident from becoming a subject of inquiry and remark in the ‘All this ts peculiariy dieagreeable to dom Nimes, in the socount yurpal published of the proceedings at the je mat. ter would probably have passed away quictly, as I had tative of may be alto- MR. BELMONT’S BXPERIENCE CONTINUED.—MR. BEL- MONT TO MR. MARCY. Lecanioy or Tas Usrrep States, Ar Tus Hacve, February 28, 1853. * * * * sr— As there bas been of late a good deal said about oar diplomatic costume, on the occasion of Mr. Buchanan’s exclusion from the opening of Parliament, and of Mr. ‘Mazon’s having again essomed ualform at the French court, 1 do not deem it out of place to mention to you how completely successful my adherence to the plaia ‘citizen's Gress bas been at this court. I, as well as my family, have been treated with the utmost courtesy, on all occa- sions, by every member of the royal family, aad at the Jaat ball of the Casino, one of » sories of entertainments somewhat similar to the Washington Assembly balls, which are attended by the whole court, I was honored by ‘an invitation of the Queen to dance a quadrille with her, which was not the Jess gratifying for happening on a more public occasion than the ordinary court bal for my being the only memher of the diplomatic corps simi- larly honored that evening. Ata late court ball, the king, who had been absent for some weeks at his cuateau of the Loo, came up to me and shook me most cordially by the hand, after which be entered into a very interesting and animated conversation with me, which lasted for more than baif an bour. inquiring after ths President's health, and expressing a great interest in oar rapid grow ih * « and success. AUGUST BELMONT. I should inform you that the dress worn the members of this legation has recen’ ae au appropriate court dress for other and what is remarkabie, also tor Bri Some weeks since, Mr. J. arrived ip London, and a presented at court.” Not wishing him to court in the absurd and ridiculous court costu scribed for civiliang, I addressed & note to Sir Cust, the master of ceremon\ y Tt is dated by! a) ples 8 “My Dear Sin—I copeider tho dress adopted by de quite sufficient to fulfil oourt etiquette, feithes’ fer" aa American or an English gentleman,” &o, Mr aye as acoording ng presented in thie dress at the birth day drawing room, on the 19th May, and Mr. Filmore end Mr. Henry E. Davies, bis companion, have. appeared at court in the same costume. JAMES BUSHANAN. Fon. Wiisam L. Mancr, Secretary oi State. Paris, Japuary 22, 1864, resigning my United States legation, to the reply of Mr. Marcy, February i8, 1864, and to my rejoinder, dated March, We} ‘and to the instructions of the jure 1, 1863, doved’ reiatiog to the subject of ciplomatic uut‘orm. ‘You will notice that my courge conformed strictly to the letter of the instructions and manifest wishes of * administration expreesod therein. Mr. Mason, the Minister, on his arrival at Paris, a‘ter presenting his ore- dentials to the Emperor, in tue citizen’ drees iodicated by the instructions, and having his audience of the Emprees in the game simple costume, oa both of which occasions I accompaniéd bim, subsequently concinded to adopt a coat: embroidered win gilt tinsel, a @word and cocked hat, the invention of a Dutch tailor in Paris, borrowed chiefly trom: the livery of asuborcinate atiachg of legation of one of the petty Powers of the Continent. Mortided and indigvant at this course, I dectined attend- ing with bim the bali at which he first igared in this tog- | gery; and insomuch as this act me to tho | French court (as I stated in my first letter above men- | tioned to the epartment) B the Lampe inet being sus- tained by my government in carrying o own iastruc- lene, ans as embarrassing the faltiment of my public duties, I at once resigned. | I think it proper to reiterate a fact alluded to in the cor- dence cited, that I was assured ively joritatively that mo intimation by the | Dor apy with indicated to it by Mr. Mason, | caused hié repudiation of my course, court was satisfied, which, pursued six months in the numerous occasions in which I appear- ¢d at court, had regarded it as final. I would a'so refer you to the expression in Mr. Marcy’s | despatch to Ce rp gel GB) course of official con- | duct, particularly in the mater referred to, is approved and commended,” whilst in the gret that any one our ministers rere. seating their count abroad have found themse! 80 situated that they have felt obliged, by considerations connected with the public interest, to adopt a somewhat different course.” to Paris will, of courte, be free 5E The new minister going to obey the instruction as I did, or, if he feels considerations of public intereat’”’ to do as Mr. Mason did, | (tadopt.= eomewnat cifferent course.” I do not knew that a letter which Mr. Mason showed me from Mr. Marcy, and which Mr. Marcy referred to in conversation ‘with me, is to be found in the archives of the department, as, though official in its form, I recollect it wae marked YE vege or “‘pergonal;”’ but if on record, it will be seen that the Secretary of State severely animad- verted upon this repudiation of my course, which he took occasion to say had been almost univer: commended by pubiic opinion in the Usited States. ‘Of the propriety and sound policy of American Ministers ‘Dot assuming any uniform in attendance upon the courts to which-they are accredited, and which was ores. the intention of the circular of the department of June 1, 1853, (all previous instructions ibject being therein withdrawn.) and of the recommendation to wear the simple dress of an citizen, I presume you, sir, with your own long experience, entertain no question; | and I feel the more assured that this be so, as those in- structions are still given by the department without modi- cation. My seven years’ experience in diplomatic ser- vices abroad, and considerable eubsequent reflection upon this subject, has covinced me that it is one of no slight importance, and has confirmed the judgment I formed when, in Avgust, 1863, I, as Chargé d’Affaires, first ap- peared at the Tuileries in citizen’s dress, in accordance Hon. W. L. Marcy, Secretary of State of the United Staves. . AN BEPLANETION BY MR SANFORD.—MR. SANFORD TO MR. MARCY. Panis, March 12, 1854. &m—I bave the honor to acknowledge receipt your letter of the 18th of February, acceptibg my resig- Dation, and conveying to me, in terms highly gratifying, ube commencation of my official conduct. pers hae thet ac Jiaiat desire } Bf from my mind any cause of complaint against the govern. ment, and I regret that you should have though: there ‘was avy occasion for doing #0. . In my letter of the 22d January, I stated that a recent occurrence “renders my further oficial intercourse with the court impracticable,” &c., for the reason, with others alluded to, that the occurrence ‘‘conveys the apparent dieapprobation of the government,” &o ‘Whether or not the court was warranted in that conclu sion, you will not fail to perceive that, if such an impres- sion prevaiied, it would be, in some measure, an ob- btacle to the efficient ciseharge of my duties. I informed the Minister of Foreiga affairs, at the time of making the change in question, that I was acting in covformity with the wishes of my government, as conveyed in jts (then) recent instructions. Our new Minister, an officer of guperior rank, coming directly from the government, ignores the spirit of the new instructions and what had been done under them, adopts a course cirectly the opposite to that which had been \seigieed and restores the usage which had been It would hardly be supposed that two persons, charged by their government to execute its wishes, acting under precisely the same instructions, could, with a due to their true intent’and meaning—which is held to bea iret duty—adopt a course so directly, if not absurdly, in contrast, without any change of circumstances whatever to lead to it. The more netaral conclusion would be, that both had acted capriciously, and without instructions, or else that the inferior officer had misunderstood his govern: ment, and was disapproved b; , it be, I ference it. However unfounded ‘roch 49 impression take the liberty to assure you that sach the thing more in character with our democratic institutions | drawn aad too willingly) by individuals connected than a coat covered with embroifery and gold lace. Be- | with the Frent government, whose opinions in par- sides, after all, this would prove to be buta feeble at- | ticular are of some consideration, and who are sempt “to ape foreign fashions,” because, most fortunate. | ed to regard a Precedent, deliberately accepted on its part ly, he could not wear the or¢ers and stars which orna- ment the coats of other diplomatists; nor could he, ex- cept in rare instances, afford the diamonds, unless hired for the occasion. At the same time, entertain for the exaltei character of the I expressed a desire to appear at court in such hovt di the spirit of the circular. not feel at liberty to mention. civil dress worp by Gen. Washington: but after e: Stewart's portfait, at the house of a friend, lcame to the conclosion that it ‘Would not be proper for me to adopt this costume. since the de) Gress and appcar in it before the chief magistrate of my own country, at one of his receptions, I should render ees = ubject, of eae Megan Besides, it would be considered presumption in me to affect the style of dross of the Father of his Country. It was in this unsettled state of the question, and befors Thad adopted any atyle of dress, that Parliament was opened. If, however, the case hal been different, and I bad anticipated a serious question, prudential reasons would bave prevented me from bringing it to lame at the door of the House of Lords. A court held at the palacs eppropriate I observed, “fashions had would, for mapy reasons, bea much more Place for such a purpose. Under these circumstances I received, on the Sunday morning before the Tuesday on which Parliament met, a printed circular from Sir Edward Cust, similar to that which Ihave no doubt was addressed to all the other foreign ministers, inviting me to attend the opening of the session. The following is extracted from this circular:— “No one can be admitt:d into the diplomatic tribune or in the body. of we Hoose but in full court dress.” low, from all the atten ctrcumatances, I do not feel diepored to yleld to the idea thet ‘any disrespect was intended by this circular, either to my country or my- self. Since I came to London I have received such atten- tiops from high official personages ag to render this quite foreign country, in attending court, is required to appear | imaocourt dress. The political institutions of France recog- _ Rise a classification of society, and each one appears at coart improbable. What may be the final result of the ques- tion Toannot clearly foresee, but 140 not_ anticipate’ any * rerious difficulties. wi JAMES BUCHANAN. Hon. W. L. Mancy, Secretary of State. a ME. MAROY SNUBS MR. SANFORD—MR. MARCY TO MR. SANFORD. ‘Darantxent or Stars, ‘Wasurxcrom, Feb. 18, 1864 mT iohay oe SS of Sener ent atae eag your ir january, “ nation ts Secretary of Logation sk Parle,and desiring ee. miesion to leave your post. He has instructed me to in- form you that be bas complied with your request, and a successor will soon be appointed totake your place. If there is any consideration that would make it agreeable te you to retire from your situation before {se eareaintg ready to enter upon the duties of it, you have his permis. sion to do 0 at any time that may sult your views. You have presented the circumstances which led to your resignation in such @ light as to convey the im- plaint agalnat Peete ha mane = com you no act on its part to sustain such an in! ce. You must have had all necessary assurance that the course you pursued, under the instructions of the Ist of June, 1863, met with its approbation; for you had oom- manicated to thie department the [eae that course, and had not, in any way or }, Fecelved the slightest intimation that it was not deemed here a reasoa- able and proper compliance with these instructions. I cannot perceive how any one can fairly infer that the determination of Mr. Mason, acting under the same in- structions which you did, and none other, to appear on fome occasions tn what is called a court dress, or im uni- form, “conveys the apparent disapprobation of the gov- ernment” of your course. There is nothing in the fi * the case, in my view of them, to justify such an in. ference. ‘The instructions on tho subject have undergone no mo. ification since they wero firet issued, and to none or one diplomatic agents has the a; of them been with- drawn. The views of the government in that matter are unchanged, and it is not now lees solicitous than it has been at any time to see them carried into effect. It is cer- tainly a stré conclusion that this government conveys a a n of the conduct of any one of its diplomatic agents use others, actin ee discretionary clause i» the same instructions, do arsue preci 8 me course as he bas a: eee tie one Without withdrawing from your sucosssor the discre. tion which was given to you, and Tequiring him to. make yor iA ben the Le Ma Teel the department could not bave effectually guar: inst the occa: wiveh seems to be odimstte ta you, Bias ‘Though I have been constrained by a sense of duty to & most sincere respect Jueen, both as a sovereign might suppose would be most agreeable to from n suggested to me, from a quarter which I do that I might assume the 80 chi f Washington, that if I were to Morn Sy by the government, as final. The knowledgs of this fact gave me occasion to allade to it as one of the reasons why I thought it best toresigu, asthe only way of removing the inconveniences to public service (such as they were) which had thus been ppc Thad = prema! Lebarlitieled expressing any tisfaction wi ernment personal to myself. bad bo such fecling. °°” fi : ‘The obligations of the trust confided to me, whish leok only to the pub'ic interest, seemed to require of me to mepreg you all the circumstarces, as it is you who ive to deal with them. My wish to do this, and in the possible, should uot, I to the suggestion ‘that ve Hho, and sil lees Ghat he ahowld’ maka may exnatpe tke ) aD rule of his conduct. ae - Itake ro credit to myself for that example, for the rea- son that it did not originate with me, but was pointed out by your instructions to both the Minister and myself, ach which leaves me at liberty to add to your from practical Ihave the honor to be, with a obedient rervanty on Oe ee NPORD Hon. Wom L. Manor, Secretary of State. HOW THE NEW DRESS WAS RECEIVED AT LISBON.— ‘MR, O'SULLIVAN TO MR MARCY. Lacanon or tam Unrrep Srarss, Lisuon, June 28, 1854. } sm:— . * * * * ‘ Having been informed at our legations in London and Paris (to which I made hasty vislis duriog the of my family’s detention at Liverpool) of the prac- tices at present existing at our respectiveflegations in Eu- rope on the subject of official dress, and of the extent to which at most of them it had been found necessary for the sake of the public interest to yield tothe exigencies of court etiquette, I had ay ended some difficulty respecting my own intended dress at ® court reputed to be strict, ostentatious aud proud in inverse ratio to the Present Feal power 3 Greatmees of the nation. . 7 I therefore took advant Of the friendly and familiar tone which pervaced this interview we the Ministsr Of Foreign Affairs, to endeavor to get at once a satisfac. Seay settlement of this troublesome, however unimpor- fant, matter of official costume. Complimenting (and with nr npimoeed the well known politeness and Kind- ness of the Portuguese character, I told the Minister that his enlightened liberslity weuld not fail to do Justice to my anxiety to show every possible mark of the trae respect due to the government, court and People of Por. togal, at the same time thet I felt bound by the spirit of the instructions of my own government on this subject; that the only drens Thad provided for official oocasiong wae an ordinary evening sult, (blue coat and biack wowsers,) such ss would be acceptable at the ome of the President of the United States, a sim) Averican Datton indicating tative Fe sot ‘and that, after the abrogation of all former ° lations on the subject by my cranovesmtas, cou its recommendation of the simplicity ‘Sppropriate habits, of any ir dress the matter of fan cooeamey and that T cy " therefore hoped that the plain dress, which was the only one I could wear, would not be unacceptable to his Ma- Jesty and the court of Portugal. I rather assamed though deferentially, ae an assured consequence of the g00d sense, as well as of the general spirit of kindaesws ‘and politeness prevailing bere, that there could be no dif- ficulty on @ subject so unimportant. I am happy to say that the minister met me in a perfectiy sensibie and live- ral way, saying that they did not undertake prescribe the uniforms or dresses of the gentlemen of the diploma. | tie corps; that each had bis own, and that if [ thought proper to mark my nationality and position by nothing more than an Amorican button, it was a matter belong- irg to my own sole discretion; and that, in view of the instructions of my own government on the sabject, he wee satified that there was no wact of respoct moant, ard that be did not doust that what I proposed to wear would be perfectly acceptable to OE Be oe & |. L. O'SULLIVAN, | Fon W. L. Mancr, Secretary of State. ate MR. BUCHANNAN FULLY ENDORSED.—MR. BUCHANAN TO MR. MARCY, Leaanion or rae Untrep Tes } sr * * * ee Ip py despatch No, 24, of the 24th February, in speohirg of court coatnme, I expressed the Sg t Was cone with this subject forever. It is proper, , ‘The true rule unquestionabl, pesenting his State or sovereign, is Treditedin costume of “aera of his country ig their res cia 10 el chief magia, uals ts regolations of own country pretoribe matic. ‘This costume gg es With the new instr uctions. is that the Minister, rep- barehical Of Burope, great and (need 8 powers arded Aa te very of ther own ooa y indleating their ale to their }, or the service they owe as subjects of their masters. The confederacy of the United States ought not to have, as it has not, any national livery for ite tipo erisceniind ins Saeed thats the costume of the embassator’s own vig: a ‘Minwters residing “near” rinciple. A representative of a vassal State would be und to conform to the usage of the court which he at tends, where he owes all 5 Tn ‘ation, I would refer to the fact that Prince Cal- limaki, the able and accomplished Turkish Embassador, when I was in Paris, in attendance upon the court, in- variably appeared in the Turkish costume, a distinctive feature of which was the jfes, or red cap, which he wore before the Sultan. Ordinarily he appeared in the costume of a Europe: é official occasions in the This is the universally undenied ceerieteceewans'es re as to ineir own. The recent fue. cordance with the precedent other British functionasies sent the keu tow before the in point. But why silale upon a point as to knows anything of the subject has ever pute? I will only add that it becomes, American representative to individuslize himself by not imitating (when nobody expects f0) the gaudy and ridiculous fashions adopted by monar- more than republican functionaries, who are sent 1, ROG for parade er show, but for public ‘business, and whe would appear better and more respectable in the | HH if re E £ Ps 5 8 $ Spengied banner. Now, sir, imagine the these representatives of divers lee and tastes assembled Nothing save a fancy ball at Mvsard’s or a burleeque first of | eccentric: nelity Lrequest that this lttor be shown to Mr, Fanlk. lence a Se Hon. Lawis Cass, Secretary of State. —_—_——______ Affairs im South America. OUR BUENOS AYRES CORRESPONDENCE. The election of a successor to General Urquisa has re- sulted in the selection of Senor Don Santiago Derqni, late Secretary of the Interior, and General Pedernera for Vice President. The former has long been believed to be de- Cldedly hostile to Buenos Ayres, and the latter commend- ed one cf the three divisions of Urquiza’s army on its late approach to this city. Its confgently asserted that Pre- Aident Derqut will immediately re-cetablish those ofen- ive cuties. This will lead to violence, for these duties Were thé immediate oocasion of the late hostilities, ‘This year may be coneidered one of prosperity to thie country thus far. No killing drought nor inundation has occurred. Wools bear an unusually good price, and 50 algo do hides. Vast quantities of goods have come in to supply the demand made by the war. The raiirosd of the west is being extended, and two new projects of & simi ar kind ha’ In the midat of these signs of physical Vitiea) horizon is nota> clear. Senor Don qui, a decided opponent of Bucnos Ayres, has besn eiect- ca Pi entcent, to succeed Gen. Urquiza. The Vico Pres!- Gent, Gen. Pedernera, commanded one of the divicions of ( ‘tbe a» my which lately surrounded thie city. The c:n- ‘yentin Dow in sersion to examine the constitution of the Confec eration pi slowly. There is an unwilliag- fens to nooept h witout expguiont, end te nangna ii: ve been undertaken. the po- Dar.