The New York Herald Newspaper, July 21, 1856, Page 2

2 ‘but a smooth sea, and all goes.well. American ice eools the water and hardens the butter, and a better table is spread than was expected, The officers seem obliging; but the passengers—good gracious, bow frigh\Jully stil!—for most of them are servants of the Company, from the highest to the lowest, each vain of his position, but all forgetting that a voyage at sea generally brings them all to a lovel. Nothing but diguity thus far, however. Whea will they unbend, unless they wish to be eccentric? [ll content myself by exchanging a friendly word with those who, from erying, have began to talk, and in reading Macaulay's last volume till I get to Aden. Up to this time not even a moonlight song. How different from the courtesy on board of the North Atlantic steamships! There all is cheerfulness aud good nature. Mere you are frozen with the dignity of office. Of course, there are exceptions. On the 17th, at 5 P. M., after luxuriating in the beautiful scenery of Ceylon, which had attracted our notice since the morning—scenery of the tropi- eal kind, and celebrated for its resplendent beauty— we gota pilot, and made fast our anchor off the stone fort of Point de Galle. Another style of na- tive is alongsioe—the men woaring long hair rolled up behind, with a circular tortoise shell comb, like women, *o that you tind it a diflicult thing to distin- guish them from the otuer gender. Another style ‘ot beat waits to take you off, for a shilling—a boat more peculiar than any I have seen since leaving Port Philip, remarkable for its siugular constraction —more singular than the catamaran at Madras. where two logs tied together make a good surf boat. This one consists of one log, hollowed oat and boxed up, the top part about twelve inches wide; and you sit upon @ platform overhanging the water. = in tbe thing trom capsizing, they have an outriyger, some ten feet long, running parallel with the boat, made of heavy wood. I asked the boat- mad they ever turned over, and he promptly repiyed “ Frequently.” There were several hotels on shore, bat the New Mavsion House seems to be the favorite. I had no fault to find with my board, and the only objection touching the bed was on account of the parti tions of the several bodrooms extending only half way to the ceiling, giving your neighbor the oppor- taxity of hearing every movement in the room There is but ove two horse carriage in the place, and that was private, so our party were obliged to put up witha “jerry; and having no time t lose, we were driven out to where the ciunamon grows. fhe only things you see there, however, are a few stunted cimpamon trees; bat the ride along the shore was the best, the whole distance shaded by groves of cocoa and beetle nut trees; and the little thatched eottages or huts of the Singalese give an interesting picture to those unaccustomed to the island. We went beyond the grove, to “ see the elephant” draw stone to where a new bridge is being built across one of the little rivers Returmng, we visited one or two of the Buddhist temples, none of which bore ee oe those _ i en nee gaudy pictures on , without any idea of perspective, repre- — all the chracterletion of their creed, were the only things noticeable. We also vislted the English and the Datch burial places, where the number of tombs tell that the fate of man is the same in every land, but that some climates shorten lite. John Black, a Scotchman, who has beena resident here for many years, is the ane of the United wens and the time voll. — distant when he any one to at Washington, for I fancy that there ae ee Americas desirous of locating in Galle; for the arrival and departares of the Company's boats, and the occasional appearance of » freightvseeking ship is all you have to break the monotony of living there, or commissions t your account. Point De Galle isa walied city, though built so long ago, the fort ramparts and embankments are still strong, aud show little decay. The Dutch and the Portuguese have given their features to many of those you meet within the wails, tut the number of Europeans in the city are under twenty. ‘The United States steamship San Jacinto has jast coaled here and gone on to Penang, where Mr. Har- ris has been awuiting her. As a oval station the port is im; wt, but for little else; were it not for the steamers it would be unknown as @ shipping piace for a day en route. itis & flower gardeu in com; on with the sunburnt desert of Madras. I find letters and papers here from Melbourne to the 23d January. : ‘On the 1th, at 3 P. M., we sailed for Aden, and arrived at noon on the 26th, one of the most rapid recorded between the ports. I found the ce of more interest than I expected, bat there a dresriness about it that gives a man the blues. It must be now some twenty years since this rock- bound port wes teken from tie Arabs by the East India Company. Atter getting possession trey had tome trouble with the natives, who several times tried to regain wiat they lost. To compromise, the Company, I am intormed, agreed to pay five lacs of rupees to the Saltan of Lahads, bat I don’t re- member of bis ever cetiiag a penny. Aden is apancien’ port. It» brightest history is in the past —Roman genersis, Turkish merchants, and told pavigator sof ye great king Solyman,’ were famili harbor and tne rock, which rises up some two thousand feet in the air. Centu- ries ago Aden must dave been a port of some consideration. Its importance now is considerable. England wants it—the East ludia Company requires it, ior it is just the plsce for u coal station—but nothing moi It ts the Gibraltar of Arabia, but ite festifications are vot commanding. The harbor forts would shake to pieces by the discharge of their own guns, but the Turkish wail is more respectable. I was surprived to find some 20,00 natives here, but Europeans are not mumerous. One wing of a European regiment—a regiment of Sepoys, from India, say about two thousand troops—the Honora- ble Company are obliged to keep here to holdtne st the repented attacks of the hordes of be other coast, who, following out the Honorable Company, that “might makes right,” are desirous of retaking the domain. The rock, the plain, and the whole shore, Jooks barren enough; nor bird, sor beast, nor pia nor creeping thing—you might Without misrepresentisg, mothe be seen from our anchorage the and village on ti ust have a donkey or an Arab herse the moment you get ashore, and take a ride along the beach, through the thatched village, pat the mass of gras rock, over tue long military oad, down under bridge, through the 4 dark pasroge way cut oat of the sold rock, the cautonments, or Lartacks he valley beneath. where you wil id the native town, the Sepoy barracks, tue European settiements, the chapel rive Eyiscopaliansanc the -ahedral below atholics, the drill ground, aod ail me at Aden. On every side of you nothing but , tock, rock. It woald be banish- ment to live bere. The Company have «pent plenty a fort &. ‘well invested. say sowe of ov A party of fellows passed a few moet pl tly. with supper, wi " with song. Tie place was christe and will keep til we see it again. 1 am astonished to see orly fortified are many of the porta of Eag- Lind » colonies. fan not well ap in sneh tactics, and never studied Veuban, but it would appear to me that bad the Rosion China fleet been willing to run the risk of Lriti-h eruisers, they might have bombarded Sings pore, Penang, Madras, and Aden, but the destrac- tion of property would have been the only induce- ment, for they could not have held the places for any length of time, for the Oriental steamers can trans 4 troops post haste to protect the flag of England. there is one thing pretty ; India can spare no troops for the Crimea. She wanta them all within her empire, for the natives are always plottiog. thas there « STEAMING IN THE RED SHA. In tor Rep Sea, ory Suez, ) Mowvary, Arar 1, 1866, On boar’ the steamship Nubia. ‘ Landing Place of the Israeltes—Evuropeans going Home— Manmers of some Indian Residents—Eti- quette of Eastern Officials— What they Think of the United States—Hints to Travellers. We steamed ont of Aden on the 27th inst., and two hours later We shall anchor a little below where the Iareclites cromed the Red Sea (probably at low ide). Our voyage from India has been most plea- sant,as well a rapid—only twenty-two days from Cal- entta to Suez, a distance of 4,757 miles. The Nubia is one of the most magnificent of the «plendid fleet belonging to the Oriental Company: is some 330 feet in length, and 2,200 tons register, and aceom- modates about one hundred and thirty passengers. Starting from the Hoogly with a goodly number, we have added to it at Madras, Galle and Aden till we have a full complement, among which are thirty-four children under ten years of age, which namber includes eight babes. The season is nearly over, and those who have the means and can get permission from the Honorable Company are flocking home; but the next steamers, from May to Aagust, will be Jeas crowded, for the hot season ie not the time for crossing the Desert or the Indian ovean. It has af. forded me no little amazement to note the cliqueish manners of the East Indians. Althongh now some hree weeks together, the diguity of office and the | responsibility of position have not entirely melted | the ice. Hospitality, and gord natae die for want of nourishment, and sociality is stifled by affecta- tation. The hereditary castes that are so religiously | observed by the Hindoo natives are not more marked | than the pointed exclusiveness of our Calcutta pas | sengers—each looks upon the other with feelings | far from friendly. | ducation or refinement seems | to have little to do with the barriers of soci- ety--money—salaries—pay—is what is most | thought of. “How long has he been out—and what dees he receive per month? Is he a collec- tor or a ‘sudder judge?’ Does he belong to the civil or the military service and has he intluence at court?” are among the queries when the new comer makes his appeat aie. Ali ci)sses ure represented on board our ship, from a collector to the consort of a meia- * ber of the Council; from a lieutenant in the Indian army (not qnite) to a commander-in-chief. Soxe are going home on sick leave, others on a three years’ vacation, while one or two have been a quar- ero! aceutury in the service, and retire with a life ension of $5,000, balf of which they have paid ow ye r to year, to make up the fund ‘There are others who tiave been out as long, but are not as jortunate; their names do not head thelist, and they must wait for their time to come. S»me of our pas: sengers are gentlemen, others snobs; many of them vnvite our acquaintance, others are fearful that their dignity will be roffled by being courteous to those whore pay is less. The member oi Council, who gets $40,000 per annum, is not in the same set as the commissioner, who receives bat $15 000; and the Bengal eiileo considers his position a peg or two bigher than the Mudras—while the Calcutta poten- ta‘e speaks patronizingly of his counterpart in the Mofussil. All the divisions of Indian society stand boldly out on shipboard, and intrepid is tae man who can remove the chill that freezes the little cour tesies of Jie. Restraint hangs over the breaktast table, and fortaality barricades the jovial langh and the pleasant conversation at dipner; gossip, iutrigne and ill natured remarks follow you through the cabin te the deck. If you wish to be quiet, you are thonght eccentric; if you sing too loud or converse above @ whisper, you are considered a fit candidate for a lunatic asylatn; ‘a hearty langh is unpardonable, and as for a dance. # tablean, a charade, it would be out of the question. All the Company's ser- yants believe in the infallibility of the Compaay; an excuse is found for everything the Honorable Company may do. American slavery is horrible, but the Indian ryot system is a blessing to the native. Annexation in america is robbery; in Iudia, frignd- ship and protection. The Court of Directors may do what they please; the Governor General pro claims it, and the servants, far and wide, say amen. Many are the arguments which 1 have had with my fellow passengers on the recent annexation of Onde. A king, whose moralities were not more marked among the Indians than were Charles the Secoud’s or George the Fourth’s among the English, is some- what surprised one fine morning by finding several armed regiments in his palace garden. He asks for an explanation of such an outrage, and is told in re- ply that he spends too much of his time in his ha- rem—tbat the revenue has fallen off—that womeu hold the seals of office, and that his ministers are bad men—ttat he maltreats and grinds down his subjects—and that in face sagpee of all these dis reputable acts, the honora’ company, alias the Buitish ernment, actuated by purely philanthro- pic motives, have decided oo his empire and annex his kingdom to the British possessions. Re- sistance makes the Rajah a ary @, » submia- ary, intimidates the king, and millions of acres of fertile land, millions of 5 millions of pounds sterling are added to the wealth of the Brit em- pire. Oude was a diamond of the first water, and the compuny not deriving the sum they expected from the increase of the opium culture, coveted it and seized it, and Lord Dalhousie (who, by the way, landed at Suez day before yesterday), is vard bound, to give an account of his stewardship. The directors will give him a dinner and a service of plate, the Queen will entertain him, and he will receive the personal thanks of the British Cabinet; but Parliamentary opposition will ask Lim, through the treasury benches, a few questions, which will open a debate, and that del May prove an un- fortunate one for the late Governor-General. uarters o! a century bave disappeared since Warren jnstings’ day, and the British politicians are irri- tated because disappointed about the war. may march an army into the parks and domains of an Indian king, and take them, but Rassia has no right to follow ber example in sending a few regi- ments into the provinces of the Sultan, and America hes no right to add Cuba to the States. Oude is only another chapter in the history of India, and my fellow passengers consider it the most brilliant in the book Formerly the Indian servants made the voyage t round the Cape, where they lett their conscience; Rat, strange to tell, says the old saying, they forgot to take it up again on their return. Now the over- land route the custom, and you must tuke passage in the P. and 0. to @ taste of official life in Culeutta. You can but meet many very pleasant people; bat you also are brought in contact with those who assume what they do not possess, and you feel disgusted with the envy and jeal of civil servants, who sneer at the officials in the army, whose remuneretion is less—moustach- ed collectors—chartered huzears, by Lord Ellen- borogh, whose sarcastic remarks and indepen- dent despatches were the reasons of his recall— snobs whore manpers are their advertisement. Bat T have said enough of my compagnions de voyage, and now will onaay all that may seem harsh, for I remember many ot the Nabia’s party whom I hope to meet again. Our officers were musty sizing; our ceptain a good sailor, without a cabin polish; our table from the first respec able, and our cabins | rather small for four. If you take the India mail, bay a chair, or else you go without—'tis the custom. Each passenger at Calcutta bronght on board his private seat for the deck In China the traveller takes bods, linen, and washbowls, bat chairs are farnisued by the ship. Five companies, of five vans each, compose oar party. Eech curriage takes six. Every five or ix hours a company starta, in order to give the leading horses a resting spell. Yesterday lota were drawn for choice of numbers, and I ain among the fortunates who co in nomber one. Those who get the last hatch will be detained almost a day, and will have no time at Cairo. I don't like the navigation of th Red Sea tor sailing ships, but it answers fur steam- ers. LANDED IN ROYPT. Camo, Eotrt, April 2, 5 t Av Sneranap + Hors. City of Suez—Its Population—Hotels and Trade—- What it Was and What it is—Travel to Cairo-- Canela, Caravans and Pilgrims—A Glimpse of the Pyramids. Were it act for the Indian mails the name of Saex would never be mentioned, except by the Oriental tourist, who, in his enthasiasm, journeys across the desert to Palestine, so that he may see where tradi- tion has traced the track of israel—where Pharaoh lost his army. Even with the immense traffic intro- duced by the Peninsolar and Oriental Company, Suez is still dead to morlern life—a miserable hotel, a branch of this,achapel,a dilapidated rain fora town numbering some 5,000 in its population of the lower ciaas of Arabs, and a few amcieut and modern recollections, are all that give it notice. The slave trade is abolished, and the monopoly of trade with Jeddo, formerly in the hands of the Levantine mer- chants, is also broken up. There are some fifty fo reigners resident, nine of which are English, the others being French and Maltese. The port boasts an English Consul. I pity lim. The overland route was opened in 1349, by Lieut. Waghorn, after which Hill & Co. took it up; thea the Eastern Transit Company, in 1943. Bat two years later the Pasha went into the carrying trade and the Egyptian government has since condescend ed, for a handsome consideration, to act as servants to the English Steam Company, in taking their pas- sengers and freight across the desert. This, of course, has given Suez what little notice it enjoys. Some eixty years ago Napoleon encamp- ed here, and his headquarters show how poor were his Egyptian accommodations. It will be remem bered ‘that Suez was the town that became very nearly being the grave of Mahemet Ali. The Mame lukes had planned his assassination well, bat the secret leaked out, and in the night time the great general escaped on a swift dromedary, and lived to return the Mamelukes’ treachery in the citadel, bat more successfully. The Transit Company have some fifty vans, as they are calledtwo wheeled carriagee—a kind of Black Maria intended for six inside incomfortable and inconve- drawn by four horses. The vane are | + Paypt: no English manutactarer would own ne] ‘he company also have some 600 Arab | and & horses, and two hondred mules; but the 500 of 600 camels required to transmit the inland and ontward freight and laggage belong to the Sheik«. The dietance from Suez to Cairo te eighty-four miles, comp each We changed fi were far a journey. single tree—yes, there was one, a murerable scrub, ana now and then a bush or thistle; but nothing green—nothing instinct with life—not even rocks, to Vary the scene—nau-ht but an everlast- ing ‘ew 01 vand- sand ou every side—mountains of it in the distance; but plains near at band, for our track —itcun't be called roau—hes dheetly anne the valley. The artistic psint ‘of the “ Dying Camel” —WLo Was it by j—fequenuy came up vefure me as 1 caw the decaying car -aees of the taithial quadra- } eds scatiered along the desert, in all stages of decay ; but tbe hearre vowed de-ert birds are ever shrieking near, keeping discordant time with the jackall’s quick, sharp yell, and when lite has departed, they ‘ommence Uber scliiary weal, giuttenizing in their giecdi: css till satiety makes them disgorge, only to glittenize sgain. The shrill wad of those carmun tirds and the fierce, whistling, ghost-like noise of ike devert wind is the morning and evening music ot the srub, seemingly an eteruul requiem. To hin, 10 cheers Lis lonely journcy—to me it sounded as from a repulehie. 1 have spoken disparaging'y of the mode of fhunsit and our hotel accommodations; but, to seficct, What most they bave bveea only thirty years ago’ Betere English government wud Engtish money aud English enterprise taught the Pusha some of the comforts of civilized life— hotels in un inhospitavle desert—oases pliuted by the Western Company in the heart of desolation. Lefore, no water, no resting place, nv suelter, no bourisbnevt rave what you carried—nv human being, suve the accidentul meeting of the camel driver 0: the muleteer, tw retieve you in distress, and NO prospect Of reaching your jouruey’s end for days abd weeks, insteud of hours, as uow. Verily the change is worthy of contemplation. The Cape route Was & lopg journey, the camels motion was too slow whe. the shorter one ucross the desert Was first estavlished. England saw her Indian em- pire; ludivn servants wanted more comiort aud despatch, and ugland said wo Egypt, “Let there be vetter arrangements made,’ aud they were made. Butthe weuge only wasiutroduced ; 4 telegraphic wire as been ordered, a railroad is under way,aud shortly the whistling of a Western ‘occomotive will startle the Bevouin trom his sleep on his sandy pillow, and the rattling of a railway trsin across the bleacoed skeletons of the ass, the mule and the camel wili prove the sweetest of all sounds to those puor beasts of burden, whose labors have been so greatly lessened by the g-nius and the ingenuity of civihzed man ‘Towards the close of our journey severat caravans of Arabs and natives us, their camels loaded with every ule ki f package. At Aden | saw aship loaded down like # North Atlaatic emi- rant packet, with pi bound to Mecca, but re were none at . The curavans in our track were wostly for the purposes of commerce. For miles before we reached the last station we saw what we sup) a lake ot dark biue water, shaded by trees, which were reflected from below, but the distance did not leasen—the deception was per'«ct. No wonder that Ni "8 army begun to show see of mutiny insubordination, for hopes rai-ed to be thwarted maketh the heart sick. It is a remarkable sight to witness the action of the sun’s rays u) a sea of sand; the panorainic magic of the lantern falls into pititul in=ignitiance when compsred to che wirage of the Egyptian desert. Thirveen stages had ended, when a shout from the leading announced the appearauce of Cairo in the distance, apd another shout as we turned the bend discovered to us at the left of the city the won- der of the world—the pyramids of Egypt. Cato, Eeyrer, April 3, 1856, Ar Suerarxp’s Horen. A Cairo Hotel and its Charges—A Ramble through the City--Royal Tragedies— How to Look at Alexandria—Europeans in the City—Eniry to the Seraglio. Shepherd's Hotel, I believe, is the only decent one in Cairo— where you have to pay New York prices for Oregou comforts. The proprietor has been ca- tering for the travelling public some fifteen years, but his ideas of lwing do not seem to profit by the ex- perience. The house is crowded—wany of our In- dian passengers who were in the last carriage have been shut out, and had to make the most of the Oriental, where they sleep, ani pay for food—which they come over and take with us. After getting once over the desert they object to being starved in a populous city. Lord Dalhousie aud Lady Susan Ramsay got in before us; and as the Governor Gene ral is the guest of Said Pasha while passing through Egypt. his Excellency engaged eight rooms for Lin at Shepherd's, and the state carriage, with pompous escort, awaits the orders of the late head of the la- dian empire. On reference to the register, I find the flags 0: the respective boats up the Nile this season, Ame- ricans, Germans, English and French have made up their parties, and have noted dowa their tours ther to the first or second cataract. The boat's tlag as well as the national ove, is usually painted in the book over the names of the party, for che benefit of their friends. Tam told that there are more Ameri cans up the Nile this season than auy other nmi tion. Yesterday | tramped through tue city, ony éragoman taking usinvo cathedrals and mosques, through narrow patbs—for there are no streeis ia the East—into dirty bazaars, and down deep int» the wretchedness of Oriental life. Several times we passed funerals and marriages, both of which are clownish— loaghable—absurd—music that hath oo eweetness—weddtug garments as unclean as thos who wear them—long processions—all mean and meaningless. Really, an Egyptian marriage ap pears the very acme of all shams, and the funeral no better; while the circumcising the children seem the most ridiculovs of all, I sawone boy perched upon en Arab horse, done up ia tinselled roves, with crown and bells, followed by a traia of about fifty of bis circumcised and cirocumeisiag frieuds and fa mily. No romances would ever be written in kgypt after the writers had lived a short time in its capi- tal. The Orient sounds magniticently—it is a mel- liftuous word, done up in imagiaative grandear—but one day will answer for Cairo. Some of the mosques mast have cost millions o Money; that known as the Citadel, or the tomb of Mebemet ali, is considered the grondest in the Kast: it is tm reality a wonderful cture, built of marble, granite, and freestone, ond much of its ornamental marble work bas been imported from France. Hetore mer = | we had to take off our boots, end encase our in slippers. in accordance with Eastern etiquette. The same egotiam that stimulated the early Exyptians, thousands of years ago, to mark the buy laces of their kings by tombetones more wonderful then anything ia his- tory, has been handed down through so many gene- rations to the sons of the founder of }- F . — dynasty. a* may ve evinced by the tomb of Mehemet Ali. Just in the rear of this costly temple you are shown the tomb of the Mamelukes, to whom this same monarch proved bimeeif the king of modern assas- sins. The story is an old one. The king and the Ma- melukes were deadly enemies, each tryiog to extin- guish the other. At last an armistice and a treaty were concladed. Mehemet's son was about to leave the capital, and a splendid banquet was given by the father on the Ist , 1811, «xa token of will tw the Mamelukes. The tlower of their order were ent. The banquet over, they mounted their bean- ful horsee—the best Arabs in the land—to take their departure, having pledged their last pipe of friendship, but the gates were closed, and quietly and mysteriously their entertainers had let the wet. Treachery flashed across their mind, and yet they could hardly credit it; then came a burst of musketry, thinning out their ranks; at once they saw the deep laid trap: the Egyptian chief had rtooped to become an assassin, liis excuse that of the modern Napoleon for the coup d'(tat—“Had [not been first, they would have murdered me.’ What could the Mamelukes do? Their bravery was of no account; their enemy was behind stone walls, pour ing down acontinual shower of ballets. Out of some five hundred of the bravest of the brave—soi- diers who won the admiration of Napoleon—only one —. Torahim Bey, the chief, and his faith- fal band, lay weltering in a pond of blood. The same slanghter was going on outside, wherever a Mamelnke could be found. Some twelve hundred or more were siain, which broke the power of that brave order forever. One only was saved of those who attended the banquet. Emin Hey, seeing death awaited him in the citadel, plunged off the preci- yice—a fearfal leap. Putnam's death ride down the church steps wae wonderful, bot the Mameluke’s found stonds firet among bold deeds. His horse wae killed, but the soldier escap withont injary. In the afternoon I visited some of the Pasha’s ps ces, some of which are chastely furnished; but NEW YORK HERALD, MONDAY, JULY 21, 1856. you mnst cross the threshold before you can admire, for outwardly they are shabdy enough, like beautiful inmate o, the barem clothed in the tattered, filthy ts of Leypt. T shall bares over Alexan: and hasten out of Egypt, for Lam sick of the nauseating filth that meets you at every turn. Slaves of hereditary cas- toms and ancient prejudices, marrying the moment ner arrive —— age of pabesty, Viner ygamy und possessing such uuprece tact Tities for divorce, knowing no such word as inde- pendence, bowing and prostrating tvemselves under the bustinado, the women biding tueir sore-eyed ug- liness under the same hind of veil as that worn by Rebecca, and the men still weariug the garments of many colors, like that which Joseph wore; without the extraordipvary industry of the Chinese, the bravery of the Malay; the grace, the beauty aud iagenuity of the native of Hindostan ; void of all manliness or nobility of purpose, wallowing in their sloth and their debasing sensua ity, under the decimating scourge of the conscription, gronud down by relent- less, agonizing tyranny, the Egyptians of today, unworthy of tl ancestral honors, live on, regard- Jess of their fate ax of their own—without the vital spark of active lapor, of religivas freedom or of civil rty. Plague, pestilence aud famine may con sume them, war and revolution destroy their habi- tations, without stimulating them o more euergetic or move ambitious measures. Standing ou a preci- pice, stooping to the bowsuring, with death staring them in the face, the everlasting Aliah kestm (Gud is great)! of the Arao is all the cousolution he re- aires. P ‘To-day and to-morrow I shall hasten over Alexan- dria, for a!terwards I am booked fur Jerusalem, Murray appears to ve the Bradstaw of Egypt, as well as of Europe and asia Minor Take Murray with you, and your dragoman, and if you are indus- tricus, and not too sevtimental, you may do up Alexandria in a day. Pompey's pillar, Cieopatra’s needle—there is but one remaining: the cata- combs; these three are the living links that bind one with the dead. Their immensity, their gran- deur, their proud antiquity, make them the signal stations between the era of the pyramids and our own time. The two thousand years have i come round—the age that has twice given birth to the mastidonic beacons that distinguished the two gieat eras that have lived und died; but what is there now to mark the third? wo thousand years hence the children of Exypt will expect s»me tow- ering mouuisent to mark the thid great epoch of their country’s history. What -hali be the me- mory that binds the present period with the Pillar and the Needle—to the Pyramids aud the Sphiax’ Shall it not be the railway, the steamboat, the tele- gruph, bringing about the moral aud the physical change thut everywhere follows the :ootsteps of the Anglo-Saxon race’ No better fame can rest upon the Pasha’s reign; no fitter mautie caa fal! upou the tombstone of the present dyussty than the in- troduction of the arts and sciences of civilized mau But | fear that Said Pasha has not the ability nor the nerve to make the moral change, unless spurred on by the energy of the American, the capital or Englaad, or the sword of France. Inheriti:g all the tyranny and despotism of his father, without avy of hi military geoius; wishing to be thought a great mili- tary tactician, but possessing ueither brains nor bravery for the scievce of war; spreading gloom and mi-ery, and discontent throu. h every mud cabia in his kingdom—even carrying the harassing torture of the conscription into the Soudan, where his pos- sessivns are six times the size of France, that he may raise the army from 8,000 to 40,000 men; speaking — and French, and keeping tho- Toughly posted in the political changes of Earope: Jealous of the Consuls who rule him with a of iron; cunningly trying to strengthen his own - tion by pitting France against the encroaching power of England and America against thei both; professing peace to ali mankind and friendship for paces ba saath yet ar wills eereasing. ant 1g 3 powerful army, cha oaton to bate those about him with an ingenui- ty and success worthy of a better reputation than he ys, managing always to bary his future = in an impenetrable mystery—rememberin, ow insipuatingly Nicholas flung E; at the he: of Aberdeen, how disgusted met Ali was with the interference of Englani, France and Rus- sia in 1527, when those three Powers in the battle of Navarino stopped the former king irom riding over Greece and walking into Constantinople—who knows but what the it sovereign may not lose bate by fooliaily following hi father's fruit- schemes: Who would have thonght of findiog twenty thou- sand Euro, -one-fifth of the population—in this fine old“ donian clocked shaped alexandcia,” while at Cairo, with a population of 360,000, there are but five thousand toreigners’ I am agreeably surprised to fiud this ancient school of arts and scienves--the it entrepot of Eastern commerce— flooded with Grecian merchants before it became ——— animated with modern life. Alexandria, with its wonderful manuscript library of a million volumes, any one of which, had it been saved frcm the burning pile, or the ruthless destrac- tion of the plunaering Arabs, might have told us the whole history of the p: ids, und saved di» tinguished antiquaries and savans mach useles abor in tlouncering over heireoglyphics that have baflied them, and will continue so to do for cenva ries—-no watier how learned some ot their decipher- ings may appear—with its famous Ptolemic museurn and its remarkable structures, one of which i# bent with age and ill usage, while the other is still ao- ecty as fresh as when erected—the delicate plas- ings of the voluptuous Cleopatra—the wondrou- raised no man can tell piece of spiral granite -how —giving Pompey the credit which belongs to Dio- cletian; Alexancria, with ite gigantic tombs, where kings and emperors, conq and conquering, slept their long sleep, while the storm and tempest of war throughout their wide possessions, sweeping like a whirlwind over the . met the storm and tempest of the great Levantine Sea, that washed the gi -c- stones of the princely dead, composing an eterua! reqniem amidst the breakers aud the winds, leaving an echo that shall last the life of history !—Alexaa dria, with its interesting associations, was among the ancient cities whove history most impressed me when at school, With the fall of the Roman empive her commerce drooped, as tue choked camel an the reduced population, are willing to attest. One branch alter another wi lopped off, till Gama's discovery made the Southern Cape the toll gate of the Indian race course. When the proud relic of the ope Alexander, who conquered Bucephalus before e conquered worlds. and shed tears when there were no more worlds to play with— Alexandria, the seatof Christianity, the great outlet of Indian and Egyptian trade, was only kuown for its ancient re- nown. Although the canal to Suez would shorten the route from the Levant to India some 8,000 miles and would bring New York 3,000 miles nearer t) China; and, nutwithstaading the recent discussion of the enterprise in England, I doubt if the under- taking will ever be accomplished. The excavating and the grading would not be difficult, and as the Red Sea is some thirty feet higher than the Medi- terraneen, the surplus water of the Nile would be useful in irrigatiog the Desert. Yet the project would never encceed without Western capital, and ‘tis not likely that England wili farvish the means to 4 bighway for ull nations to her Indian pos- ses#ions. Besides, from what I saw of the navi tion of the Red Sea in steaming through in the Nu- bia, I should think it very dangerous to sailing ves- sels, and a cane! exclusively fur steamers would be expensive. Another thing: Two years hence a rail- road will be completed between Cairo and Suez, aud before the conal could be finished, Stephenson, if be lives, will have the “ world’s highway,” as he terms Eg Ce oe to eS were Le * O Shanghnessy is negotiat ra telegrap! station among the ruins of Nineveh! Alexandria, with its harbor where Nelson so sea- manlike worked his fleet in spite of pilota or of buoys, before the battle of the Nile, as soon asa first class railway is in operation across the Desert, will commence a new era in her history. Commerce will oe = Pape she will prove wo past . Alread, you see the timulant which the In jan’ trate has given to her trade. pw i Fa up, streets are being widened, estate is advancing. se exports will be brought to the seaport market; the cotton and the indigo which Mehemet Ali introduced will increase if his egotistical suc- cessor does not impress all the husbandmen, in his short sighted policy to enlarge his army. Imports and ——s will enliven exchanges, and Alexan dria, like the fabled bird, will rise again intoa flourishing commercial city. hotels are overflowing with the outyoine ond the inee passengers. Four steamers arrived yesterday. The Nubia’s passengers will have to wait seme days, forthe Bombay mail has not ar- rived at Suez, and the Marseilles and the Southamp- ton boats can’t move their paddies till the Indian and China passengers all concentrate at Alexandria. Tam at the Hotel area da nee you come this way I recommend it; they will treat you well. Tlie Peninsular and Oriental and the Victoria are also well patronised; in fact, just now everything is full. There are no American houses, and no Americans, save De Leon of Catalonia, our Consul General here, in Cario. AEF a atthe Palace, and makes friends among the European settlers. I wish all our foreign representatives were as well appointed. The consecration of the Greek Ca! today was a magnificent exhibition. The beautifal Palace Choreh was crowded—the hall, with Greek Chris- tians and many strangers—while the galleries were ornamented with Grecian ladies, whose fair forms and ae res attracted from the much more e than the cumbrous service of con- secration. Troope of flower girls, choirs of singin boys, dozens of sally ented priests, a churc essing much archi’ | beanty—the front of which, near the cross, being covered with paintings of Christ and the Apostles—were among the chief attractions of the entertainment. Bot what was of most interest, were several of the spiral colamns being pointed to me as belonging to the old Alex- adrian library. In the rar of the church, T saw where had been excavating. Already many ancient relics have been discovered. Tsaw tas oe three more pillara just breaking into the light of day after a sleep of twenty centuries, still as perfect aa when they first felt the chisel. _ The baitle field of Aboukir is too far from the city for me to see the stone that marks che grave of Abercromby, but our steamer will, to-morrow, pass within range of Nelson’s victory at the battle of the Nile, where » young, Casibianca perished in the flames of the iee ip rather than leave his post before the cuter of the Admiral, who lay faint in death be- low. ‘The city seraglio of the Pasha is as dirty and uninviting outside as the Custom House at Dublin; but you are obliged to take off your shoes before you can cross the inlaid palace floor. These palaces are emblematic of an Egyptian dynasty they last a monarch’s reign. There is nothing substantial about them. The ornaments are chaste and costly; the inle'd floor of pearl and ebony and rosewood and cedar are very beautiful; the polish dazzles you; the silver framed bed attracts you; the marble, so beautifully veined and variegated, both pleases }ou; the oriental appearance of all, however, gives it the chief attraction. In accordance with tian custom. Said Pasha will take an extra cup of eoffee rome fine morning, and pt will bave an- otber sovereign. Mchemet Ali, however, who rose trom farmer to merchant, from merchant to soldier, from soldier to general, and from general to kiug, born the same year that fue birth to his illustrious compeers, Wellington and Napoleon, like the former lived to a ripe old age. eldest son, [brahim Paeha, did not survive him, aud Abas Pasha, who nade bimselt notorious by keeping a harem of boys, was assassinated by two of them, who had become exlous of his favors. But Said Pasha still lives, but his people hate him: more than ever; for his love for # etanding army makes his name a demon in every family injured by his press gangs. Avexanprta, Apri! 6, 1856. Said Pasha’s Improvements--Railway Progress in Egypt—Donkey Boys at the Pyramids—.A Look at the Great Wonders, Srid Pasha deserved much credit for bnilding so good a railway, and for introducing carriages more comfortable than you generally .ind; but his transit arrangements are disgraceful. There seems to be no head nor tailto anything. At Cairo, in the able hands of the Superintendent, Mr. Belts, an English- man, the baggage of the overland is received and despatched with more s, ‘em; bat even there my trunks all went wrong, althoogh the labels were distinctly printed. Each camel across the desert brings about six or seven trunks, and with a cara- van of three or four hundred camels, there needs must be more or less confusion. The baggage train came through yesterday, and I am ylad enough to find my packages, which should have been at Cairo. We make but one change between the two cities, and that is where we cross the Nile in an English steamer, which came very near sink- ing by overloading her. The changing of the freight into the boat, and from the boat into the cars on the opposite side, would make a hermit groan with laughter. Every movement shoves the cart before the horse. Four or five strapping fall grown Aravs are to be seen urging and whipping on a dozen little ragged boys, who tug away at the cotton bales with all their strength, the men taking no share of the labor. While this farce was being enacted, the head Shiek came out, and one of the largest of the men was seized by the other four and thrown down on his face, while the Sheik gave him a tremendous beating with his cane across his back. When the man got up he assisted in bastinadoing the rest of his compa- nions, who had just been whipping him. After- wards they all went lazily to work till the old man got out of sight, when they went to beating the boys as before. I never saw a more dirty, shiftless set of able bodied men. We were detained nearly two hours to allow Said Pasha to get away in his des- *h carriage. Banners were flying, guns roar- e and se ng marching all the while, to the martial of Arab musicians. During this gay pageant there were about one hundred and thirty of our Indian party shivering ou the bunks of the Nile, in our the Pasha and his satellites to uny place but Alex- andiia. We count distance in this country py hours; before the railway, with camel or donkey, it was three miles to the hour. Now, if you ask how far it is to Cairo, you are told eight hours. The rail is jaid down through the alluvial soil that borders on the Delta, and the road required but little grading. The whole enterprise is the private pro- rty of the Pasha. In fact, ever since that start- ing edict of Mehemet Ali, that all Egytian property ae the government—ergo, himsel!—every ente every undertaking, every improvement in the kingdom belongs exclusively to the reigniog dynasty. The —- doctrine of the it Prince aroured even the sleepy nature of the Arabs, bat only to feel more severely the grinding heel of the despots. The camels and the donkeys on our route huve beceme accustowed to ue locomotive; but occasionally those from far inland sheer off at a tearing pace over ditches and through oy fields, much to the disgust of their driver, who lost all control over bis frightened brutes. Afer our de- re from the chief Oriental city, our ride was jit pera bei ee fruit i and apn in plantations and cotvon ts, wing luxu- Fanti in the black loamy oil. The omens were as thick as locusts, and the road was filled with caravans of country Arabs, going from and to the fair, which took plac once a year. This season there were about 000 present. We passed the grounds, covered with tents aud camels and horses, where the Cairo dancing girls delight the youths of the country by the disgusting exposure of their forms, and the revolting norements of the Almeh, where the Bedouin finds a market for his horse, the Arab bargains with the Levantine merchant for his grain, the planter barters his cotton and his indigo with the Greek, who so well understands the tric! of trade—for when Greek meets Greek, the Arab then gets squeezed—where, in spite of firmans from Stambou!, the Tark knocks down to the highest bid- der his rez women and his ugly mea; where honesty is bought and sold, for honor and integrity are strange sounding words in Egypt. As = get further into the country, the villages and cities be- come more and more like the mud dwelliags of aboriginal races. The wretchedness of Cairo must be luxurious beside the squallid filth of the country town. The rattle trap (enewents of the city are | oar po compared to the beaver huts outside, plas red over with cow dung, which they dry and use for fuel, like the Argols of the Nomadic tribes of North. ern China. Save a view of rant pillar, there is nothing imposing in the approaches to Alexand: At one place we saw about a thousand wretcbed objects mending a break in the embank- ment, but they had no shovel, no spade, no barrow, no implements whatever. Half ‘ed they stood in long rows along the ditch, passing a handfal of mud one we the a, "4 bricks oe mb of a ship. sight was ‘al. ins Bere cae, Se tt Sets covering a la space ot i by all kinds of “Oriental flowers, ‘trees and plants, which are arranged with more than usual regard to — fountains and grottos are interspersed roughout theextensive paths and winding walks through or: groves and fig trees, the lemon, the apricot, the date and the pomegranite; a beauti- ful green foliage shades the beach stone avenves, and a delicious perfame delights one with the arti- ficial nature, in most contrast to the per- citys The palace grounds are, more extensive than ° are more é ve San paince; the butiding is bat one , of square proportions, surrounding a lake, with fountains in the centre. There are but four rooms, one in each corner—a billiard room, a dining room, # bedroom, and a drawing room. This is favorite palace of the Pasha, where he comes to sport with the fair mmates of the harem. Then no visiter or native, save the huge coarse form of the mutilated Nubian, is permitted to enter the sacred precincts; then the garden gates are closed to all but wives, and Circassian and Georgian concubines, the vo- Tuy Pasha, the impotent, beastly eanich, who can only live to curse the demon who deprived him of his natare! I reserve for the last the first of Egy; dere—the Pyramids. Besieged by donkey boys,whose infernal jargon still haunts my sleep, our party at last bead eg = er e i Nile, we seam- rou, mud wal village of Ghizeh to Re ‘coloneal pillar of ages, dark with ‘my : ' Of course I went to the top of the monster’ tom! of —— I ge te As hy a) chambers in ite base, and groped throng! ami Of course I made ‘omual commonplace obsereations ptian won- violence. e in desoribing ir senaations to your com- Coatons while gazing from the dizzy aaa oe the barren, desert, the fertile the Delta, the pyramids of Ghizeh Sokara, the minarets, the mosques of old Cairo, the first among Arabian cities, and you express sur- price to find Jenny Lind’s name cat among the thoneands scratched upon the aandstone, and think you weuld like to bave heard the Nightingale sing #0 high in air among the clouds. Ii js difficult to conceive that these leviathan | tombstones were erected so many hundred years Lefore Solomon impoverished himself in building ee the Temple. ‘The generations of forty cer said Napoleon to his army, “are looking dot the battlefield,” as the Marmeluke cavalry the desert ; thus, in his soul stirring stimulating bis tatirued soldiers to beled | 0 wry, The great pyramid was com) ars before our present era, aud has lived interesting historical changes of Eeypt ly four thousand years it has watched the ¥ » of dynaatics , age after age. oe, H of ite ‘kings—the burial o! Wail, A and of Cleopatra—the invasion of the Roi under Cesar, of the Turkish host under lim, in 1617, and of the French in 1793, wh }ears after were expelled by the English—d the peasant prince, who founded, in 1806, rent dynasiy anon all who have b since its erection, and will yet stand to tions yet unborn. The vase of the pyrami some twelve acres of iand, and it 1s estim it consumed 85,000,000 cubic feet of stone can estimate the lavixh waste of lite cau vanity of man, in erecting so prepostero costing years of labor aud thousands of © gratify the egotism of & prince, who ame mesns might have made portions of Llorsom as the rore 7 The American Consular agent at Cairo is who speaks most of the languages of th nent. These sub-Consuls receive their appoil rom the Consul General at alexa To-morrow I shail see something of eling in Egypt. Jarra, Syria, April 12, Sensations after a Journey to Jerusadem—C in Syvia—The City of Jaffa—People Mi Way The American Universality—R the Holy Tombs— Mount of Olives and the —The Arabs and the Missionaries A ment and Incidents, I have been to Jerusalem, and have again, delighted and disgusted; delight vevelling in the hallowed associations of ages—dicgusted at the utter desolation of My ride was tedious, my lunch bad, my he footed and sore backed. There is no such thing as comfort in § yet, so long as time lasts, pilgrima will be by a visit to the Holy Laud. In forty ko steamer, the Tancred, reached this enciey near where Zebedee flourished among the and Paul lodged with Simon among the 4 where Egyptian commerce was cradled, wh crossbow, the javelin and the arquebus were the Crusaders, and where Napoleon's enem material for their abuse. Iwas on the beach wh said he coolly shot down ths prisoners who svri on condition of their lives being spared—shot cause he had no food, and as prisoners they mus and I also visited the Armenian convent, where serted that he poisoned his wounded soldiers, to them from falling into the enemy's hands. serious charges may be true, but triendly and writers differ, The fertility that winds itself, Jand side of Jaffa by no means prepares one for renness about Jerusalem, After leaving the p half orange-shaped site of the quaint old walking your horses througii the soft, loamy pati on either side by the cactus or prickly pear, ap trable fence—aiter the odor of the orange and th trees is left on the shore, and the luxuriant groves: den from the view—after gallopping over ihe p fore you get to Ramleh, fertile with the wi of Indian corn, of millet and of Syrian barley. bave rode through the valiey of Sharon, adm butterfly beauty of the wild poppy, occasionally with what, I suppose, was the “lily of the looking in vain to find the “rose of Sharon” th you have wandered about the old stone towers q leh, with ite Armenian convent, now shut wall b lice, and partaken of the cheese-paring of the Trt-Consular Hotel, at Astor House sed have mounted up the ancient tower, Robinsou became so enchanted with Syrian retraced your steps to resume your journey, rid through fertile hills and valley, where givin olive plantations and cactus fences form tne traction—after these are past and the garden pd your journey is completed, prepare yourself to by shocked ut nature void of retineméat, at scener, budeness aud dreary feawures startle you into ment. The pleasant paths of the morning to’ ing verge into one, and it is now that you begin land whet itis make a tour to Jerusalem. from among some ol the Australian rapged of China and rock of Aden, I was not I amazed at the strange appearance of the « really I vever before saw a mountain desert. Iq cur foot path, for it Was nothing more, for cart bot pass through those ravines, no more than ash the Jaila breakers—for mies our Way Was over UJ deep nountain passes, down rugged heights, d © Mab Much more 6 beast, aad up the mou! again, only to tind st worse beyond; naught n ye but recks—rocks on the piain and roeks mountaip, and rocks tuervering—an tlimitadle och®—your Vision tires itself t sleep at gaaing q reeless, flowerless mountain path, But you are with renewed vigor when you at last reach the the little patch of olive trees, unde- whose branches Arebs aud Turks and tae Christan have rested for refreshment for years end yi some of the trees are patriarchs. A bard bolied chicken and some barley bread our dragomaa, magic process, Which | thali provably discover W| bilis are paid, bas always in readiness, vloch Syrian oranges and the cold water which the aren bring you. «expecting bucksheesh, gives y station war alive with “an encampment of some one and fifty person:—whole families bound on pecition to the Holy City. Drstributing the cur lunch among the poor .ittle famirhing child showed their gratituae by baupting as for buake continued our journey, but no better road The path became more more irregular, the 0 regions more und more desolate; the whole co Viaeted as with the palsy, No matter where rocke—small rocks aud largo rocks—stare ab U under the scorching sun Hoks at the base of the mountain, and rocks when we reach the surami after hour we ride throvgh the almost impeuetrab! ness of rocks. Uur faithiul Abraham, accustomed to such shows evidence of fatigue. My companion from quod bor-eman, occa onully walks to rest h lmbe, and there are poruons of my body bi the torturing jumping of the Turkish saddie, Tange Ol Motbtains more, terraced wiih rock to! perk, only one more, and Jerusalem, the cenwal city, burets out from the mountains that enoire parently buta few rods eff, but the rods are first view is sublime, and your memory is yeopling itagain. A little more than a ‘day's the Levant, little les# than a day's ride from the ts the ancient Salem of the East, the Jebus of the Canaan, the Jerusaiem of the Isractites, who sub uncer tbe stripling who so dexterously used against the chief of the Philistines. At # bro ‘village on eur way, the «pot was pointed out wih tion marks the meeting of David and Goliah, cbildren of the Saxon mother Jerusaien is oot romantic events. in eariy days it was the almost every race. David conquered it—the C destroyed it—the Jews rebuilt it, About the that Confucius eas stereotyping his reruarkable mors upon the Chinese nund, King Heroa was ing his military cbest in orpamenting his quarters of a century b: fore the Christian ere, conqueror, Titus, saw the glorious Solomon's te led before bis victorious army. Other chang = of whirlwinds of earthquakes, th ‘onstantine and of Juliam—rapidiy followed. Magnificent in history, where Persian ge Greek kings, Christians and infidels, Tur! rene Lomte all shone triumphantly in their frey of Boillion, im the last year of the eleventh Taised again bony the teed ene ago stoce 1 pored over the spar p spiration wherein Torquato Taseo,in bs a ered, ‘took out his patent for immortality—the scriptions freshen as 1 reflect—the protracted the battie and the victory—I can imagine ail; near the gate of Solomon, contemplation quickens| verential awe with which I gaze upon the our Bible, our religion and our Saviour, The @ were full of brave memories, A century after the Oriental Sultan, oueheathed his sabre, and the fing = was unfurled from the palace siuce that day, step by etcp, we #ee the v0 lation. Latin princes, Egyptian emperors puitans bave massacred aod have reigned, hai and died within the walls of Jerusalem. The bokis sway in Syria—on every side veiled ‘Jurkish soldiers. The romance and history of ors native land fs of yesterday—for w-day the: rules, and who shall tell ot the morrow? Wherever 1 go, Ifind Americans; some aro at terranean, come at £ymond’s, but the best hovel,1 is the former, and comfortable quarters can. be p ‘at moderate prices, if you can credit the reeo tion which every guest records in the hote! book fa bas been so often visited and desert shail make myself most agreeable by saying little ing it. Sinee the tyrant Sultan Achmet lorded it land, the writers on #ycla bave been mort indd Prom the Englishman, George Sandys, im 1610; th Mariti, in 1760; the’ Frenchman, Chaveaab aiter slandering Bonaparte, travelled in Syria and Lamartine, twenty-six years later, whose bo vels is only a book of poems—for fact io lostin down to later tourists, our own countrymen, in 1886, and Robinson, in 1841, and numerous tiors up to the present day, but from what Fo from the Orientals, the accomplished echeler wished divine of New York bears away the @ paving written the best work on the countr: the Syrian tourist carefull; ruse it, and feel well prepared to visit Jerusalem. Hun writers, many of whom have marked out theory—Jews, infidels, Christians, all beve day—every year something new turns 0 ties are changed, writers differ, and often terminate in’ confusion. Following oar were burried through the city and suburbs. Dolorosa, the Holy Sepulchre on Mount Calvary, of Mary, of Lazarus, Kidron, the Vailey of y in the past, Donkeys wit and of dirt rabbing against you;