New Britain Herald Newspaper, November 20, 1918, Page 10

While the fabric combination of black satin and navy serge is far from new, it is so acceptable a combination that the length of its popularity does not in any serious way affeét its advent again this This attractive dress is enhanced by a con- ventional embroidery design done in Algerian red season. wool crewel Surah that color a: By Edith M. Burtis Cooyright. 1918. by Public Ledger Co. OLOR, it is 'generally conceded, is the most important element of apparel. So naturally all activities in the dye industry should interest women. Before the war virtually all dyestuffs were import- ed from Germany, as perhaps you know. And many people had been led to believe, or through ignorance of tho subject did believe, that Amer- ica could not produce dyestuffs. Per- haps this was propaganda. At any rate, it was not literally true. We had not produced dyestuffs, but the reason was not that we could not. Beemingly the need had not yet arisen, and while we did manufacture woman'’s some dyestuffs they were infinitesimal in quantity. Since America’s advent into the war great progress has been made in dye- stuffs in this country. We know now for a surety that we can make a wide range of colors and make fast colors. If you have had an unfortunate experience with American-dyed ma- terials recently it is not because it is impossible for America to produce fast colors, but that in some incidents a certain ingredient which makes the color fast is now consumed in the manufacturing of munitions. This will all adjust itself in time, and meanwhile American dyemakers are attaining many achievements. , ; v BRITAIN DAHLY HER-AL;;, \?/EDNM; LOYEMB ER 3&,_ m‘. ‘ - = MADE-IN-."/ 1LiklCA DYES COLOR ALL NEW WOME serge in the new sealskin brown, beautifully rich and lovely a ts name implies, was chosen for this girlish dress. the only trimming and quite sufficient, for there is a fine good-taste decorative effect Black bone buttons are in the design An interesting development of ac- tivities in dyestuffs is the determina- tion to produce a new color, a color symbolizing peace and liberty. <« We will, without doubt, have a series of colors under these titles, but there is sure to be one dominant color that will symbolize peace, victory and lib- for we cannot have peace and liberty without victory. I believe it is every woman's pa- triotic duty to learn what she can about American-made dyes, to ask for them, to buy the fabrics that have been colored by them. In the reconstruction and social life that is with victory and peace there is im- portant, yes, vital work for every woman in America. And not the least of business surely coming THE HOME AS A SERIES By Rene Stillman $¢YH, WHAT a picture!” I ex- claimed a few weeks ago when for the first time I entered the new home of an old friend. I say “new” home, but in reality it had been in the process of making for more than a year, only I had not been near enough to visit it before. The house was the materialization of a dream, and it had finally come true in the sixth year of my friend’s mar- ried life. And in clamation have said long-cherished reply to my charmed ex- she said: “You couldn’t anything that would please me more, for that's just what I had in mind, to have the rooms in my dream house a series of pictures. I wanted each one to be a bit of still life that an artist could put on canvas and exhibit.” When I had explored the house, even to the quaint attic rooms, I knew that my friend had materialized her beauty-loving aspirations, which is only a different way of saying that ghe had succeeded in stamping the very real beauty of her soul upon her surroundings. It was a house with a personality; a beautifully blended personality, to which each member of the happy family who lived within its four walls had contributed. It is a great mistake to think that art is reserved for museums and art galleries. one has aptly said that art in either of these two places is dead and entombed. On the other hand, art which is applied to every- day life is very much alive. Like a worth-while religion, it is capable of daily use. rt has a Some very real place in home today and the home knows it not is woefully times and would suggest the one responsible for its interior is herself woefully lacking. The “home beautiful” is no longer a theory; it is in the present day a very concrete, very pleasing fact. We have the magazines and newspapers to thank for this, for the expert decorating ad- the which behind the at once that vice which was at one time obtainable only in exchange for a plump fee can now be had in the columns of many publications, and foolish indeed is the woman who will not profit by the gold which comes to her in exchange for a few coppers. Frequently the highest aspiration of the old-fashioned housewife was to keep things painfully clean. Far be it from me in this hygienic generation to understimate cleanliness, but the overestimation of it in the last gen- eration or so was deplorable. So much life and energy were spent in scour- ing unnecessarily that wome: had no time for the consideration of art in the home. Cleanliness was next to godliness — sometimes before; but beauty was denied even the bottom rung of life's ladder. And these good women were bewildered when rebelling offspring, grown to young manhood and womanhood, did not find the sand- soaped, frequently ' Lideous domicile the center, of attraction! How much better the chances of the present generation for happiness, for no influence is more potent for good evil than the home environ- ment. Beautiful surroundings (not it arily expensive surroundings) will all unconsciously mold a child’s character, and, what is more miracu lous, will often transform the charac- ter of one who has grown to maturity hitherto surrounded by ugliness. It is a psychological fact that beautiful sur- roundings have a soothing and bene- ficial effect upon the dispositions of people. How important it is, then, that the family should be beautifully, har- moniously housed, that intimate group where masks are too often down and the velvet gloves of courtesy are all too frequently removed! Hlave I convinced you that the women who would be homemakers as well as housekeepers must give art, though it be in its simplest sense, a solemn, serious consideration? Have I made it plain that art in the home really has its effect upon the spiritual life of the inmates? or There is no longer any excuse for a lack of knowledge upon the subject of interior decorating—the magazines, the newspapers, the libraries have rich stores of such information which are yours for the seeking, couched in simple, unprofessional, untechnical terms which make the essential direc- tions easy of comprehension. The room in the illustration 1s worthy of an artist's brush, so alto- gether delightful and pleasing to the eye is it and so unquestionable is the good taste of its furnishings. The ar- rangement of them is restful and bal- anced and well and harmoniously blended are the various green blues, yellows, golds and antique brown which go to make up the color scheme. This unusual tam-shaped turban is developed in velvet, with brim band of silk and wool-embroidered band- ing. It is a typical young girl’s hat, as is evidenced by this attrac- tive illustration of these is to support American indus- tries, Color, I have said, is the most im- portant element of woman's apparel. Merchants and salespeople know that it is the color of wearing apparel which first attracts the eye of the prospective customer. And it is color which first attracts the eye of the casual observer as well as your criti- cal neighbor or dearest friend. If the color of your costume is right—that is, if it suits you and is not glaringly offensive in lack of artistic develop- ment—the other details of your cos- tume will obtain but slight conside tion from those about you. The young women’s dresses that I am presenting today are particularly interesting in color. Not that the color is unusual or striking; rather The ever accepiable blue serge frock is made doubly pleasing when combined with georgette this delightfully girlish model the combination is enhanced by an effec- tive bead embroidery done in coral pink split- zephyr wool of the same color, and hecause they are in zood taste These for young women and for women who are youthful in appe and in spirit. The sort of ready-made dress that is distinctive for its individuality has the guarantee of service and smart style, for the maker as well as the seller is known to the public. Surah serge in the new sealskin brown, a beautiful rich and lovely color, as its name implies, was chosen for the girlish dress in semi-princes lines. This dress has an interesting tucked panel and the good taste dec- orative effect of this permits of the charming simplicity of design. Black bone buttons are the only trimming that seem necessary. While the fabric conservatively and generally becoming. are specially designed dresses ince combination of OF PICTURES - .. .. The rooms which please most grow a touch here and a new bit of pottery there, you know, as the need is real- ized, and that is probably how this one came into being, but I like to imagine that the creator of the room drew her inspiration from a walk she could have taken one day and a dull brown nest she might have discovered holding three green-blue speckled eggs, bathed in a golden sun that would in all like- lihood have been shining through that particular tree. Why the blue-green brown-speckled chairs in the room could not but give the fancy a veneer of truth! des, beautiful rooms are built around just such a poesy thought oftener than one thinks. Imagination is always an asset when furnishing, and the woman who can dream a roum and form a mental picture of it before she begins its actual creation is more likely to successfully furnish than the woman who hasn’t the imagination to do so. Of course, in the end the room may be quite different from the first idea of it that is conceived, but the mental picture forms a basis upon which to work, something to which the decorator, amateur or professional, can add or from which he or she can subtract as the process of furnishing is carefully, never hastily, carried on. To have a room useful, but at the same time beautiful, be it in a mansion or a cottage, is an achievement worthy of every real homemaker, and one within surprisingly easy reach. e An all-around much-used living room which an artist would delight in painting as bit of still life Photographs by Joel Feder. Taupe georgette and matching satin were the materials employed for this lovely afternoon {rock. The trimming is crystal beads in an exquisite and unusual color of blue—some- times called moonlight blue black satin and navy serge is far from new, it is so acceptable a com- bination that the length of its popu- larity does not in any way affect its advent and acceptance ‘again this ason. The attractive dress of this ever-popular combination is further enhanced by a conventional embroid- ery design done in Algerian red wool crewel. Taupe georgette and matching satin were the materials employed for the lovely afternoon frock. and to the charm of this combination and to the beauty of the design is added the color combination obtained by the trimming of crystal beads. These beads are an exquisite and unusual color of blue sometimes called moonlight blue. The ever-acceptable blue serge frock is made doubly pleasing when combined with georgette of the same color. The delightfully girlish model developed in this combination is en- hanced by effective bead embroidery done in coral pink split zephyr woo And now back to color again. Yo will admit that these colors are co: servative yet smart and pleasing bd cause they are good colors. frocks, I think, speak for themselvel for their simplicity of design identi: them as the kind of frocks that reg women want. Interest in hats never fails. Eve woman unless there is somethi: radically wrong with her is always { terested in smart hats. So I am sujy that the single model chosen for yo! inspection this week will not be ‘lo: in the presentation of these sma: dresses. You see, it belongs to ti popular tam family, a type of hg that is very much in evidence thi season. We might honestly call t tam and all its variations a girls’ ha] for tams are most becoming to gir and young women,- Here is a ta that, lacking nothing in its suitabili for the young woman, can be wor] most acceptably by smart matrons. Fashion Notes HE Pa will here. faa for without doubt knitted frocks be launched The return to favor of fagoting is interestingly portrayed on many new frocks of both silk and wool. Chemise dres; are much dence. One of navy velour has the skirt section finished with pin tucks done in cross-bar or quilting effect that is most effective. in evi- In tailored models the smartest and newest give evidence of a strict ad- herence to the extremely narrow silhouette. Very smart and elegant are the lat- est velvet dresses in suit effect, par- ticularly those of black velvet. long and A velveteen frock on the simplest of straight lines, the bodice collarless and buttoned down the back, is effec- tively trimmed bands of silk braid put on in tunic and bolero effect on the skirt and bodice respectively. with Elegant simplicity best describes a chemise dress of broadcloth, with deep skirt hem band of silk embroidery. This embroidery trims the wrist- length bell sleeves and the round col- larless neck. Draped shirts, broad sashes and lingerie vestees are three important fashion features noticeable on smart midseason frocks. A new and pleasing feature of even- ing and dinner frocks are girdles of ribbon in which many new colors are subtly blended. Ribbon is used extensively on mid- One interesting method on in various forms on underskirts of evening gowns of transparent materials. season frock applica the Apron effects are an-interesting des tail of many evening gowns unque: tionably inspired by woman’s mo: general acceptance of aprons of ser ice. An effective costume of crepe chine is embroidered in wool and sil| at the hem of the skirt, across the bg tom of the apron tunic and about f V neck. A sash of ribbon velvet form| the girdle and hangs in string end| nearly to the bottom of the frock. Lingerie New French lingerie has in mos instances a touch of black, either i lace or ribbon, and many striking an unusual colors and color combinatio add interest to the latest creationg Some all-black sets are to be seen. Corsets of flesh-colored silk brocad and velled by black lace are finishe at the bottom with a ruffle of wid edging. An interesting combination, o chemise lines, but belted at the waisf] is made of flesh-colored crepe de ching trimmed with narrow insertion an edging of black lace. Orchid and blue, a sort of old blue is another lingerie color combination] and sets of crepe de chine and o georgette are effectively developed # this combination, using the orchid fo! the garment and the blue for trim ming. A topless chemise combination o the step-in style is of black mousseling de soie, trimmed with narrow salmon pink ribbon velvet. Needless to sa this is a Paris-made design, American women know the economical advantages of knitted silk lingerie, and matchin sets of vest and bloomers, tailor trim med, with flatly stitched bands of con: trasting color of ribbon, are much, yogue, <~ = . have come