New Britain Herald Newspaper, July 15, 1916, Page 10

NEW. RBRITAIN DAILY HERALD, SATURDAY, JULY 15, 1916. “FEET FIR OR an inexpensive bathing suit the only material seems to be mohair, and even this is not( in the end a great saving, for it does not seem to last more than one season, as the salt water gives it a grayish look and plainly dates the suit. Satin suits will wear two seasons, pro- | vided they‘are not made in such an odd style &s to be quite impossible the fol- | lowing year, and surah will outwear all silks. In color, black, the old standby, s always best for a foundation, with such additions in the way of trimming #s the maker sees fit. Blues fade and| become streaky, and the lighter shades will all of them look very conspicuous on the beach or fade from the salt wa- ter. The most desirable material for a bathing suit is a heavy black satin which is sold for this purpose, and this should be made simply, but becom- | ingly, and, while it may be trimmed in any practical way, it should not be trimmed in such a way that will at- tract the attention of the entire popu- lation. - She who intends to make a bathing suit at home should make a waist with short puffy sleeves, or long ones if she is afraid of sunburn, and with tucks or some fullness across the front so that when the material be- comes wet it will not cling to the fig- ure. The skirt must of necessity be short, and, while it should be wide, a circular skirt is very unsatisfactory, for it will sag wherever the bias occurs, so that | in the end the most practicable skirt is one that is tucked or plaited so that it will hang in graceful folds and re- tain its shape. In the way of trimming the edge of the skirt may have a little color applied around the bottom of the skirt or band wherever the figure re- | quires accenting, and the waist line may be held in by a girdle or a tight belt, depending upon the trimming. Most bathing suits nowadays are made without bloomers, and under- neath one wears wool jersey tights. | This arrangement greatly facilitates | the making of the bathing suit at home. Taffeta is a very delightful material to | wear in the water, but unless it is hardly last over a two weeks' vaca- tion. It must be borne in mind that in buying bathing suit material only the imported satin can be relied upon to withstand the wear and tear of salt water and the sun, and it will be nec- essary to buy a good quality. The heavier the satin the better it will withstand the water, and the invest- ment will be, in the end, a profitable one. There is a material called silk serge, a loosely woven silk very much like serge, which is thick and wears well under all conditions. This is not so stiff as satin and will fray in han- dling. It would be well to French all the seams in any bathing suit, for they will fray out, and even binding will not hold them in place. Of the two bathing suits illustrated one is black and blue satin combined, a pointed tunic over a drop skirt. Nar- row lacing over the V front is a new detail. The four cornered hat is made of the same materials as the suit. The other model takes black taffeta as a fabric and is cut princess fashion. The saucy hem is piped with white in points like the V neck, and a gay ban- danna kerchief affords the cap. | Speaking of caps, the one pictured is !'a waterproof satin in vivid green with white buttons, piped crown and wings as trimming. WHAT SHORT SKIRTS WHISK INTO VIEW IT is decidedly a case of “feet first,” where fashion is concerned. Foot- gear has become the most important detail of the modish costume. Never since the romantic days when the court cobblers worked both day and night to supply the “twelve dancing princesses” with enough slippers to keep their feet shod has there been such a demand for shoes. Short skirts and the vogue for danc- ing are responsible for bringing our feet again into the limelight. It is no longer fashionable for pedal extremi- ties to be shy and retiring, and Her- rick’s oft quoted verse, Her pretty feet Like snails did creep A little out, and then, As if they rted at Bopeep, Did soon draw in again, is not apropos of the maid of today. It has been a long time since the ox- ford tie enjoyed the favor of la mode, but this summer will find it the popu- | lar covering of many a dainty foot. | The modern development of the oxford | tie is leather in two tones, preferably It is frequently trimmed with alloped, perforated and stitched | strappings. It is laced with round, silk cords through unbound eyelets. High shoes will be worn by many women all summer, especially when they come in such attractive styles as the high laced pair of washable kid. The laced shoe is tk favorite, as in the very high shoe it more likely to give a neat ankle appearance than the guaranteed it will invariably cut and buttoned variety. IS WHAT FASHION INSISTS UPON JUST AT THIS TIME For country wear there is a com- fortable high shoe which laces snugly about the ankle. It is of tan leather with a low, flat heel and uppers of white buckskin. To individualize the new sports shoes the makers have in- troduced scalloped and perforated strappings, hand embroidered eyelets and oddly cut vamps Pictured are bronze slippers, worn with bronze silk stockings and elab- orately beaded. Colonial pumps rival them closely—pumps with silver, leath- er, gun metal wnd steel buckles. The very latest novelty by way of buttoned boots is the double closing in the back. In this case gray suede and black patent leather are combined, as in the illustration. The sportswoman will find a wide choice of wool or silk hosiery in gay plaid and striped designs. Some of them will strike us as rather startling, until we become accustomed to seeing them. They are heavier in weight than the ordinary stocking for sports wear, and the higher priced designs include those of silk in ribbed wea tical or horizontal striped designs. The former have the admirable quality of making the ankle appear slender and are widely worn, while the latter have ves in ver- | fewer admirers because they accentuate the thickness of the ankles. However, there are always those who like, above all else, to be “different” and who care not a straw whether their ankles are heavy or of gazelle-like slenderness so | 1ong as they wear something exclusive. To these the barber pole stockings of the Victorian era will make a strong appeal. There are also stockings in the mag- pie combination of a checkerboard de- sign. The tops are plain white, which produces a half sock effect. Sometimes they are of white zephyr wool inter- woven with black silk. instead of all silk. The stockings worn with evens ing slippers are truly wonderful cre tions of cobwebby thinness. The cut shows sports stockings in modish checks and stripes, the white silk ones being handsomely set off with black clocks. How to Laund;:r Tub Frocks TP the gown in warm water and| rub soap all over it. Take up the | soiled places and rub with the hands. | Finally rub the whole gown lightly rmd‘ squeeze repeatedly. Change to fresh | water and repeat exactly. A third washing in warm water good to | clear the material. Very fragile ma- terial may be soaked for a half hourj and moved about lightly in the water, then squeezed and changed to fresh water. If there is time the soaking | may be repeated in two more waters. | Only a light rubbing may be needed at | the last. Never twist delicate fabrics to get the water out, but squeeze them. | Three careful rinsings follow. The Jast water should be perfectly clear. Use as many waters as are needed to | have it so. No bluing is used. For | materials requiring stiffness, smooth | three tablespoonfuls of powdered starch in three pints of water with a | half tablespoonful of borax dissolved | in it. Immerse the gown in the prepa- | ration. Work it well and squeeze as dry as possible. Spread it between two layers of Turkish towel, roll ulli tightly and let remain while an iron | heats. It is ready to iron in five min- utes. An equipment for ironing consists of | a clean, smooth iron with a stand, a level, smoothly padded board, with a | clean white cotton cover. A small cot- | ton blanket makes good padding, and | this can be laundered by the steam Jjaundry. Old sheeting is ideal for cov- ering. It is smoothly stretched and pinned. Clean covers are put on for each ironing. All gowns are ironed on the wrong side. Shake out the wrinkles h::'ntly.‘ Begin with the waist of the gown. All| edge trimmings are smoothed out wel! by hand. Each point of lace or em- | when | skirts. |in cold water and squeeze well. broidery is smoothed into shape and pressed in with the iron. Work in small sections for best results. Sleeves are ironed after frills. Collars are next ironed. Begin the waist at one hem and work around to the opposite hem. If there are gathers work the point of the iron well into them. Always iron on a mark thread when it is possible. Never iron on the diagonal. The skirt trimmings are ironed be- fore the skirt is placed over the board, they are narrow trimmings. Deep flounces are ironed like separate The main part of the skirt may be ironed first when the flounces cover it entirely. ‘When ironing with an electric or gas iron with a cord attached arrange the cord to fall to the back of the board and let the work progress from the front of the board toward the back. Turn the ironed portion to the front of the board to avoid mussing. Every part of the gown must be ironed per- fectly dry as you work. When the garment dries too much to iron well dampen with a soft white cloth dipped i wrinkles are made dampen them and iron them out. A good ironer does not make wrinkles because she smooths each part on the board, using both hands, before she sets the fron on the cloth. It is then easy to push the fron over that portion. Care must be used in regulating the heat of the iron. When the gown is finished it must be taken from the board carefully and placed on a coat hanger. It should be | hung in a draft of fresh dry air to make it sweet, and then inclosed in a closet free from dust and damp. This will keep it crisp. Gowns laundered in this way will never need to be bleached. They will retain the quality of white of new ma- terial. A CHILD'S GARDE kesp your child and hap! arrange to pro- vide him with a garden. Buy a cou- ot bird houses and a few painted , to train vines and flowers on; a jong nozzled watering can, a spade that he can use, together with rake, hoe and a ball of tw e bird louses from the first, and if ho bave little sisters they will le: feed and now the different birds too. .d to him suitable books to stimu- te interest in gardening. Let the little people attend to everything un- der your observaticn. Let them gath- er the blossoms and cut the vegetables and watch their eager, happy faces as they proudly lay them before you. Al- low them to make little gifts to their friends, and be liberal in your praise of their work. Any. father clever with his pocket- nife can whittle out birds and small mals of thin wood, which can be vainted in gay colors and tacked on to you wish to stic interent him | FOR BEAUTY SLAVES HERE are certain things to do every | day with unfailing regularity. In the morning take ten minutes of ex- { ercise and a cold shower or a warm salt bath. In the evening before going to bed exerc fifteen minutes and wash the dust of the day from the face | and neck with warm water and pure Then massage the face with a am Ay tonic; v s0ap. good cr Massage scalp with halr seline on brows and lashes. Tuesday—Steam face to prevent blackheads; use neck bleach; cream at base of finger nails, Wednesday—Manicure; cream to fat- ten shoulders and massage them, Thursday—Scalp treatment with ton- fes and massage. riday—Neck exercise and massage; ire of feet; hand lotion to soften the n. Saturday—Shampoo and manicure, EYELET EMBROIDERY. lopg sticks Lor fowers, as to buy every- thing of the kind may not be within reach of all paren FYFLET embroidery is widely em- | ployed on some of the prettiest HERE'S TO YOUR BREAKFAST JACKET HIS dainty garment is fashioned of | pretty and practical one tone frocks of | which cream lace delicately outlined in | gold thread. lace falls in soft folds sleeves, and little silk flowers in pastel | shades outline the V neck. This model would also be beautiful in flesh colored | crape. that form | FICHUS OF TULLE. HE tulle fichu, transparent, and disclosing through veiling the outlines of the bodice shoulder, is rath- | | sumumer models in linen, er less trying than the fichu of more | substantial and opaque stuff, asd someJ taffeta and grosgrain have such tulle | A deep shoulder cape of | fichus in the color of the frock with | tons bordering narrow frills or ruches of the same tulle. Where the color needs relieving next the face, s often the | case, a mere wisp of flesh colored o cream tulle is laid inside the colored | fichu. CHILDREN LIKE THESE. )O you know a youngster who | would refuse a bean bag? of course not. Then get to work and embroider g set of the new bean bags come all ready stamped and and ready for the colored cot- "hey come in sets, but may be divided. One is a very chubby little boy in overalls, the other his little s ter in pinafore and sunbonnet. The doll bags are first embroidered, then printec £ |ing August. | for | commercial arena should The Vacation Girl "PHE girl who prepares for an early vacation must plan clothes for | weather quite different, from those she | would need were she going away dur- For this reason cotton and the lighter dresses should be re- placed by sports clothes - skirt and shirt waists. Her evening dress should be of silk instead of net or any of the thinner fabrics, as they might be later in the season. Sweaters may be purchased ready- made at small prices if one has time to shop and look for the broken lines, for the regular priced sweater is a very expensive affair and one must do quite | a little shopping to get the right sweat- er at the right price. The best looking | and the most serviceable garments are those knit of Shetland wool, with, per- | hap: a border of white, with a belt across the back to match the border. | These are very good looking with a | skirt made of ratine or gaberdine. Gab- | | erdine comes in awning stripes, in fact, any color combination de: d, and any one of these are effective and styl- ish. The material should be shrunk before it is made to insure its future behavior, and three widths would be sufficient to make any of the skirts. It is pretty to use the material straight and to plait it at the top so that the stripes form a solid color at the belt line, letting the skirt fly below inches below the waist line or hold in the folds, if desired, over the hips by patch pockets in any of the many fash- jonable shapes. It would be better for the short waisted vacationer to choose sweater, | green and white, blue and white or, in | One | may also stitch the plaits six or eight | Plans Her Frocks merely the narrow belting instead of the wide skirt belting, which was for- merly the style, and a narrow outside belt around the waist, and again at the | hip line, if desired. The price of the gaberdine would be $2.50 for each skirt, | ana at this rate one could have several skirts for the price t a linen one would have cost in former years. For the belt there are mother-of= pearl slides which may be purchased at prices ranging from 5 to 25 cents aplece which will add greatly to the garment and may also be used to hejd the tie on the waist. If pongee is considered too warm there are always lawns and swisses which make up well and stylishly, and these will wash so beautifully, and they would serve for ordinary wear during the rest of the summer. For more dressy occasions there should be a crepe de chine or taffeta, preferably the latter, in some dark shade with pef- haps georgette crape front and sleeves And there should be two or three more dressy gowns to be worn in the even- ing or for parties. It would be bettet to have these of a dainty and pretty material, not necessarily expensive, ané if cost is to be considered ribbonsy tucking, plaiting and frills are the be¥ ter trimmings, for lace to be proper should be always very good. If the new panniered style is chosen a very desirable gown could be made in a light shade of silk and cotton poplin, caugh! up over a net foundation to make pufft at the hips and with a net waist with a bit of the poplin draped up to the bust line. The girdle be made of narrow ribbon tied at the front i & plain bow. should GO IN FOR FADS ADS have been frowned upon and laughed at, but a fad has often caused a woman to forget mental and physical ills. | The strongest hearted of us at times become discouraged and weary. Life very many of us is made up of | very many commonplace things—the same work from day to day, the same associates, the same surroundings, and | the woman who has lost her first youth in the vast have, indeed interests outside of yet must keep her place must have, her work. Do not feel embarrassed if your friends should hear you have “gone in for a fad.” Go right ahead, rezardless of their criticism. The woman who belittles another tired woman who takes up a fad is generally very much in need of adopting one herself. Anything that serves any kind of le- some | make stitched together, back and front, with | a small opening left for the beans to | be poured in. There is no more fun in a bag of this kind, except the fun which some loving auntie, real or adopted, gets out of surprising a wide eyed boy or girl. These bags have the added advantage of serving as dolls. l gitimate purpose is most commendable, and any little fad that will help to a woman stronge either men- tally or physicall is far more than its name infers—it is in all truth a bless- | ing in disguise. \ | SAUCE FOR THE GANDER. A SAVORY uce is essential to a good cook’s reputation. And, too, it is like charity, for it often covers a lack of flavor or quality in some meat ox vagaiable disb, The cook who, when | ‘sho discovers that the string beans are flat in taste or that the meat, despite areful cooking, lacks the tang Mt hould have, can quickly concoct the right sort of sauce to supply the mise: ing flavor, is indeed a good cook. Mustard sauce is a flavorsome meal sauce. To make it melt two tablas spoonfuls of butter and brown in il three tablespoonfuls of flour, Then add a cupful and a half of stock and stif until smooth. Now add a tablespool ful of prepared French mustard, a tas blespoonful of vine teaspoon- tul each of paprika and and a teas spoonful of sugar. Blend and serve Caper sauce, equally useful as a mésl sauce and erved with fish, # made by adding caper drained free of vinegar, either white or t drawn butte, salt also to sauce, sauce Hollandaise sauce, delicious with cold vegetables, made beating the yolks of two eggs, adding them to hall a cupful of butter, beaten to a cream the juice of half a lemon, a saltspoon= ful of salt, quarter much cayennt pepper and half a cupful of boiling W ter and heating the whole mixture over hot water until it is thick and creamy. is by WHITE FOR SUMMER, A LMOST every summer white proves “% its worth as the most populat summer color. This year, like all oti= is to be a white one. There will 0€ frocks of white taffeta, white orgdb die, white voile and white in eveFy other fashionable fahria. ) ers