New Britain Herald Newspaper, September 17, 1915, Page 10

¢ Paris stil holds to she s sending AN Women many smart ‘With a subtle trib- fest ally, Italy, certain “are putting out ber- r instance, with plc- 8 feathers, in imitation of ¥ ‘Italy’s sharpshooters, training of Garibaldi lamous marksmen. Our the idea somewhat, an ) in excellent felt An hat. It is featured in gay little “brush” of P8 and a smart ribbon band jed bow in front. u fall hat is of black '8 wide, tiiting brim and a d. Still another takes on a ih-+& i white satin beaver brim of black velvet. A h pompon of black and es the side front, ture is an afternoon ma- of black faille silk with " belt, deep novelty cuffs collar fastening high with which are also used on A narrow brimmed sallor nish coque held by a hand- ‘goes well with this coat, be lined or even developed or. gaberdine if autumn hands more warmth. suit of blue broadcloth is f in' a coat of almost three- £ length. - A f on deep belt, disap- either side, is fastened with ‘buttons. The high turn- r is of novelty velvet, and y brald on the cuffs and hips admirable finish. With this cloth top boots and a navy vel- brimmed sallor. The skirt is and its fullness lies in eight ts. ming evening frock, suitable .college - girl, is developed in 18 in black net over pussy. éta. < The drape of black edged with a narrow bind- thich .also furnishes shoulder ‘and finish for the net sleeves. ashion [=3 | of the prettiest of the new fash- lon features is a Watteau plait of bt brocade at the back of a plain evening gown to be worn the winter. One foresees in this | & promise of trains for winter Ing wear—not the first hint of the sweeping lines by any means In all probability, however, frocks will remain emphatically E for the' sake of comfort and con- ‘ train 1s not the only roman- n feature prophesied. Stom- hayo been resurrected by one of Parisian designers, and very i they are. They are appear- on the evening dresses and found in many instances in- with gorgeous mock jewels. ‘the ostrich is to have his day & i & geturn of his day. Seasons of the Stunning New Designs for The basque-like bodice gives a trim waist line. Black satin slippers, sim- ple as the gown itselt, give a pleasing finish. The very stunning riding habit has a distinction all its own, a severely tailored black serge coat and checked breeches. The waist line is decided and from there down takes a marked flare. Trim velvet collar and tatlored pockets are the only notable detalls. Please observe the drooping brim of the sallor to keep sun glare out of the eyes. Indeed, among the favored styles are coats made with a wide flare at hem and showing the more fitted tend- ency in the upper section. Much in- terest, too, ia manifested in coats hav- ing a flare effect that starts from the shoulders or from a small yoke. Coats with ripple backs and more fitted fronts are also recelving consideration. Although the normal and the low waist lines largely predominate, coats made in two sections, joined at a slightly higher waist line, have been put out in a limited way, with the bulk of the output in the smaller sizes. High collara are a feature of the best selling coats, preferably those which Hints For upon seasons he reigned supreme in the fleld of millinery until the novelties of the manufacturers superseded him. Then the poor birds dled oft for want of funds to keep them, and ever so many tragic things happened to them, but next winter promises them a return to power. One of the early fall hats shows a band of uncurled ostrich, and a dress tunic displays an edging of the curled variety. Black velvet trimmings for frocks are exceedingly smart, They are fre- Quently detachable, so that the same trimmings can be worn with more than one frock. To a white dress black vel- vet adds just the needed note of char- acter. Yes, tunics are being worn. They are so adaptable and afford such variety as a trimming that neither designers nor wearers are disposed to part with thelr versatile lines. There 18 a ru- w- Kerchiefs Are Gay As the Autumn Leaves very newest and at the same tHe only really smart and el W o voiles ber wide border of white around a erchief is made of a very _in white or any delicate ‘hemmed by hand, the hem han .an eighth of an inch the corner of which is em- the meonogram “or crest, in ite, preferably white, kighted girl, who is already r Christmas work, will ind ell in making some of dkerchiefs this fall, «to be up to the minute e of them of fine volle. ] is_of solid and is bound with a hite hem. Blue, lavender and are used in the same way. 'of the handkerchiefs have a ‘portion of color. j. photography, tennis, riding, dancing, walk- butterfly. chasi flower collecting, crocheting, swimming, dogs, ch: m‘nilc—nny possible autofng” williap- linen hand- machine Fe edge, but securely embrofdered in place! Or what nicer gift for the girl who has secret hankering after foot- ball than a banky embroidered with the symbols of the game, which she may flaunt during innings? The making of these very attractive little accessories might very well prove & hobby in fitself, as they offer such possibilities for most original gifts and favors. A yard of handkerchief linen one yard wide will make nine twelve- inch squares, which may be finished in various ways, If you are brave, scal- lop the edge in small scallops and col- ored cotton. If time is a consideration apply a very narrow separate hem of linen and either stitch it by by machine, Another pretty corative way of ’?n hing the hgridmade handkerchief to roll the ge and overcast it with a colored cot- and reversing the process so that the second stitchies cross the first ones. There is also a plain buttonhole edge that may:be done in colors or a but- tonholing that is being much used for centerpieces, where, instead of each stitch following the other in even pro- cession, about four or five buttonhole stitches radiate from omie point to the edge, forming pggx_eg,gm: very like a hell crochets -~ ‘jwhich fasten snugly to the throat and OB B OO OODDDOTITODODDPODPOODOOOODY" can be worn either open or closed. The “chin” collar continues to meet with considerable success, Among the novelties which have ap- the Fall mor, too, that skirts are to be narrow- er—that is, some skirts. The wide skirt will in all likelihood be seen throughout the fall and even the win- ter. Nevertheless, now that woman has been “broken in” to the lines of the narrow skirt, we may expect to see it reappearing frequently, particularly for the tailored suit. Even while the war wages designers are thinking seriously of rejecting all suggestions of the military In the fash- fons to be. Just how far they will be able to carry out their peaceful inten- tions remains to be seen. War has greatly influenced the fashions of wom- en from time immemorial and will doubtless do so until war is no more. The court costumes of Louls XIV. Louls XV. and Louis XVL are said to be replacing the influence of the pres- ent war., ‘While every one knows that winter's tailored suits are to have passably long coats, as winter suits invariably have, it is somewhat surprising to learn that some of the coats are so long as to fall two or three inches below the hems of the accompanying skirts and give the appearance of gowns. It 18 observed, too, that the winter coats are Inclined to curves and that these lines require a complete annihilation of the slouching carriage affected for the past two seasons. Buttons as a trimming are to be used in the fall. Jet buttons will be in par- ticularly good standing for the pur- pose. They will serve no purpose but that of ornamentation pure and sim- ple, even most of the fastenings of frocks being really closed with snaps and the buttons serving to hide the snap stitches. . Plaits are coming for fall skirts, and welcome they will be. When in fashion there is no prettier skirt than the plaited model, and it is becoming to all ages and almost every type of figure. The choker has arrived—not the choker open at the front, as madam has insisted upon having it during the summer, but the choker that comes up to the chin and sometimes envelops it. Most of these new models are un- boned and therefore sufficiently soft to be comfortable, even though more con- fining than the cutaway models of the summer. E Loose Military Models MEDIUM sized women look very smart in the loose mijlitary models POODOOL peared in bright colors are the silk jer- sey waists. These are worn under the skirt, button up the center front and are semifitting. -Some of the novelty button well over at the left side with large metallic buttons. Semifitted styles with the flare skirt set on at the low waist line are another type suitable for the average figure. Then there are plain coats with a suggestion of curves and a conservative flare at the edge, The lengths are from forty-two tb for- ty-eight inches. Stout women will find the coat lines are more suitable for their figures than has been the case for several years past. Aside from the semifitted styles with modified flare skirts set on at a low walst line, there are also ‘models which suggest the curves of the figure | in long unbroken lines, ending in grace- ful ripples at the knees. The old time revers and shawl collars which made the stout woman look stouter are no longer in vogue. Instead appears a plain smooth front with cen- ter or with side fastening. POOOODE Jerseys have satin revers, but the more simple types are of a military char- acter, having high collars, long sleeves and narrow braid trimming. AS the mother of a household she should take as much of nature's greatest restorer, sleep, as possible. Keeping the children clean, seeing that the household runs on smoothly, going to market and attending to all the sew- ing are not the easiest tasks in the world, and plenty of sleep will help her more than all the medicines that come in bottles. The girl’in business who sometimes feels that the day will never come to an end is probably trying to work all day and keep up a social life in the evenings. The girl with an iron consti- tution can do this for a time, but even- tually it will tell on her as much as it does on her weaker sister. Take a half Hutumn ear =% | Waists of velvet combined with chif- fon, with silk or with georgette crape are popular. Owing to its greater welight, however, velvet is mostly used for the lower section of the walst and in the sleeves; also for trimming touches In the collar and yoke. Walists of georgette crape in dark colors over flesh color or white chif- fon linings have trimming touches of wool or silk_embroidery, or of beaded effects, or of soutache braid, or they are simply finished with smocking, with small tucks or with little plaits. Other materials in favor for walsts are chiffon cloth, crepe de chine, mar- quisette, gros de londres, taffeta, satin and fancy silks. The striped and plaid taffetas are very smart for early fall wear, There is & big demand for crepe de chine walsts in white and in flesh color. The styles follow closely the semi- tallored effects, new ideas belng in- troduced in the high collars and the novelty sleeves. Collars are either high or low. There is a tendency to get away from the convertible effects. Some of the new day in bed now and then and simply relax your tired body and nerves. Do not take an exciting novel and read it but let your brain have a holiday as well as your body. It is not necessary to stay at home from the office on a pretended plea of illness to take this re- quired extra sleep. It can be done on an occasional Sunday morning, the holidays that are bound to come from time to time or a Saturday afternogn. There is no doubt you have laid plans for all your Saturdays and Sundays, but If you will set one aside every now and then, go to bed and catch up with your sleep, refresh your tired brain and wornout body you will enjoy the oth- ers far more. ‘Women need far more sleep than the average man. Many men can get along with four or five hours’ sleep, arise and be perfectly refreshed. Not so with the average woman. She needs at the very least seven hours of good uninterrupted sleep, and If she is a THE stunning hat for the coming autumn season will be the broad, flat sailor. As shown in the illustration, it is built of black velvet, the brim being bound with a blas strip of black satin. The crown is of crape, a crape scarf draped gracefully about it, and finished with a silk tassel nervous, high strung woman she needs ) high collars are cut out at the th to a point even with the collar line, many others are entirely closed closely hug the neck. As the advances these high collars, It is bes lieved, will come strongly into fa as they are in line with the semifi > effects, long sleeves and military fons. White lace waists are holding. own. A great feature is mads of pocketsy Some coats have four pockets, two off the waist and two on the skirt, Oths ers again have three pockets, other§ two and a few only one. The are often cut in odd shapes and fastened with flaps and buttons, g! a decidedly swagger touch. R Fur continues to be the hvofln" trimming. Bands of fur at the \ of the coat are used to & \ extent in several designs. % Elaborate evening gowns are devels oped In chiffon, the skirts being o or banded with taffeta, velvet or h.lll;( Rich silver brocaded grosgrains also favored materials for gowns, Woman’s Need of More SH@@};@“ | at least ten. Just as soon as you to steal the hours that you shoul sleeping you will age with about twice the rapidity that you would were you giving the allotted time to rest thai your physical being craves. Sleep re« duces fever, it relleves pain, it helps nutrition, it courts beauty. The loss of it leaves you a wreck that nothing can repair. : Women the world over have & banes ful habit of leading inactiye lives They persuade themselves that they get plenty of exercise while doing housework, and then when they g0 to bed at night they cannot sieep. Jusi for a change try a little exercise out of doors after the afternoon sun has gone down and the air is cool. Fill your lungs with all the fresh air they will hold, taking deep breathing exercises. as you walk along; then go home see if you do not sleep better than you 4id the night before, when you had not. taken any fresh alr into your starved lungs. For the Perusal of the Ladies Plain Shoes Loom Upomn Fashion’s Horizon. MEMBERS of the four assoclations of boot and shoe manufacturers at a meeting held in the Hotel Astor, New York, decided that women the coming season should wear the plain, sensible black shoe instead of the fancy foot- wear that has been so popular. The shoe with plain toes will be the smartest, and in the better grades a narrow receding toe will be found. Al- ways in black, the biggest sellers will be those of the cloth top variety, both lace and button. Heels will remain the same, and in the medium priced shoes there will be the same easy rounded toes. Fancy shoes will be of the front lace type. There will be no colored top stitchings or perforations. Colored buttons are a thing of the past. Pockets All the Rage. Pockets persist In fashion. They are employed on many frocks, even on those of the sheerest and thinnest ma- terial. A ‘'white cotton volle frock /shows two huge pockets’ on the skirt, - thelir flaps embroidered heavily in white soutache braid. Cloth suits, too, show pockets of various sorts, and so @0 heavy one plece frocks. Perhaps the newest phase of the pockets is the lit« tle shirred bag that hangs from ribs bons fastened at the beit. This is & feature of many of t eady to Wear one plece frocks, and & good feature. too. Fragrant Cushion RFiller. THE next time you want a pincushion and desire a heavy one for the dresser or the sewing machine try make ing one with this filler, which is cer tainly excellent for the purpose possibly no filler, aside from hair, & more satisfactory. Save your coffee grounds until you have a pound of them or really just what you think you will need. Dry them thoroughly and add to them ones, half teaspoonful of olive ofl and quantity of cinnamon, spice, cloves and. nutmeg. Blend the spices to produce a pleasing odor and add a little sane dalwood. While sachets are ly fragrant, yet they will soon lose t fragrance, while this will last a8 as your cushion. Put the flling ia stout muslin cover and decorate it | you desire. 2 4