New Britain Herald Newspaper, September 3, 1915, Page 10

'H-H '\ seasons always have $pecial feminine thrill of their n, one somewhere between ixjety at being passe and 'to be ultra. What to wear er and what to have on hand nights at the beach and in the will always overstock the surcharge the conscious- jhion's devotees. whites, cool, pale green, soft Jight ‘blues 1n linen, voiles and ires for morning and after- s. This page suggests a ‘evening gown for warm or chiffon over an under- hé same tone, with a dash of 1o shodsliofefuduof oo YW et ARV EVVRY wreathing roses at the bottom of the shortish skirt and clusters at the belt and shoulder. This gauze brimmed hat with a fur edge makes an artful play at between seasons’ fickleness, while the white satin toque with a telling black velvet side cut off by a gracefully nestling white ostrich plume unreservedly de- clares for fall. Please note how at- tractive are the plaid silk revers of her coat. o fomleeonfonfororforfoofunter] foefort eeefreforferlocdselctosdulontecfuufesfenfrnfonfonfosfurforoofesiorio] fonfereofonfoofonfoctorferenforioofunforforfurforforte ol foofoforfonfesfocferioel ke sfeeteefarlocfoofonion -t Nothing could be more regal by way of motor or outing coats than this of covert or even heavier material. The full skirted effect is achieved by shirrs at the underarm waist line, which is finished by a truly elegant girdle of braid, instead of the perennlal belt. The deep, capelike collar of chinchilla over a V front, neatly buttoned high, and cuffs of this same fur leave little that is smart to be desired. An untrimmed turban and a gorgeous set of fox furs, with a plain suit of navy, serve to “fix” juveniles for au- tumn winds and chilly, gray afternoons. This rough material sports suit still speaks the first word for smartness, carrying over the popular buttoned up BETINGS TO AUTUMN AS SUMMER SAYS GOODBY front of all the summer linen skirts. Serges and beige covert still lead as. favorite fabrics for fall suitings—prac- tical, comfortable and modish. Black and white headgear and footwear, boots of brown kid with beige cloth uppers and tiptilted toques with sparse trim- mings, but jaunty veils, constitute some of the season’s accessories. NFVER has the sports hat reached such beauty and Juxury as this summer’s models are showing. In their gray silk coats and graceful sports hats women make charming pictures of col- or against this summer’'s background of green and sea blue. During the dis- embarking from a large sailboat that carries summer people across a Long Island bay to ocean and dunes, one Sunday morning recently, the long pro- cession of women in gorgeously color- ed coats and hats aroused many ex- pressions of delight from a group of spectators seated on a hotel veranda near by. The long pier seemed fairly alive with brilliant flowers, ranging through the golden yellows, deep orange, rose, pe- tunia and dahlia pinks and exquisite blues. Cretonne crowned straw sports hats with wide brims are especlally pretty, and the basket hats with rib- bon bands and streamers have a charm all their own. One of these basket hats in white has a crown of glazed black straw, with bands of white and black ribbon. Shade hats for country wear of loosely woven, inexpensive straw -I-H-H-I—H-'I-I-IW o THE SPORTS HAT IS BEAUTIFUL R e i e e e e have huge flowers cut from gay cre- tonne, appliqued to the hats with but- tonholing done with worsted. Other hats of panama show crowns of cretonne with trimming bands of silk fringe. Some young women mateh their silk coats with hat scarfs of col- ored pussy willow silk and wear silk stockings in the same shade below skirts of white linen. A TENNIS DRESS. THFRE was a time when girls who played tennis felt quite comfort- able wearing linen middies or old shirt waist suits on the tennis court, but today the ultra smart girl wears clothes that have just as much style and at- tractiveness as do the clothes she wears to social functions. One dress which has been especially designed for an athletic maiden is of white volle. The top of the skirt is Jaid in plaits. The bottom is finished with a wide band of blue linen. The bodice fits snugly and yet is made so that the arms can move freely and is fastened by means of a blue lacer which is run through embroidered eyelets. THE MOUNTAIN GIRL NG wraps, folding like squaw ts about the shoulders, are sively by fashlonable women. fmade of every variety of ma- _in all colors. ong them is one made in file velvet, fitting loosely about jders to represent the Indian folded crosswise. Below der a seven inch band of plait- is attached to give the ap- of a cape. It is three-quar- with the long back pointed d with a tassel at the point. of nile green is made of taf- From the waist it looks like a full skirt, but the top resembles the loose cape with flowing sleeves and shell collar lined with shell pink or in ivory white. The skirt is fastened about the waist, and when one is stand- ing the top falls and looks like a huge shell overskirt. The effect is striking and artistic. Another is a loose cape, draped from a beautiful shawl, brought to this coun- try more than fifty years ago. The color is one now among the very popu- lar rose shades, with fringe twelve inches wide. A black, flowing collar is attached, the whole making a beautiful wrap. L B 2 o RE OF THE PATCHWORK QUILT # i w2 R B R MR MMM AR R TR B RS jur post bedstead to be truly ble in effect now must old fashioned patchwork quilt. men are copying genuine old terns, and others are evolving f their own, the colored bits eing combined with plain or terials in quite charming ‘start a silk patchwork quilt quilt, The former is easier lbecause of the softness of the the cotton patchwork Iis art and may be equally at- if the pattern is well worked raps cut from old dancing pussy willow taffeta or gold- tin in pastel colorings make inty quilts for the boudoir gue, satin and taffeta fab- pmbination achieving a variety » while the matching of the the color design. flowered and plain silk are g. One charming quilt of evolved from a castoff ©of pink faille classique dollcgh white pussy willow he pattern .was . done . in the cut in Joined blocks, flowered and plain silks triangles, and the blocks were with strips of pink satin ribbon. Such a quilt must be lined with thin silk in plain color, an interlining of thin cotton wadding being put between. Then, stretched over a quilting frame, the finishing touch—quilting with exqui- sitely flne hand stitches—is added. i o S o S e T 2 o ¥ For Woman’s Delectation i B S o i e e o S e S o ERSEY scarfs in wide stripes are used about the neck as girdles with white morning frocks. Velvet parasols have followed velvet hats into popularity. One is made of black velvet, with a plain bright green silk center. Sleoves on some of the new evening frocks are no more than little ruffles, sometimes of tulle edged with beads ible wirg at che lower edges | . S SR IR ITY girls who spend much of their vacation time in walking or other steady exercise usually find that they tire very quickly. In fact, many cases have occurred where girls have re turned from their holidays more ex- hausted than when they went away. The unusual exercise, unless taken in moderation and in the proper way, is more apt to fatigue than to strengthen. The average girl is apt to overdo ju as'much when it comes to health seek- ing as when it is a question of pleasure seeking. Now, exercise is essential to well be- ing, to glowing health and happiness. Out of door vigorous exercise does more to strengthen the mus s and set the blood to circulating than any tonic or medicine. But, like everything else, exercise is only valuable when taken in the right proportions. If overdone it can easily result in more harm than good. You do not expect a baby to stand on its feet and run when it is still creeping. No more should you expect your body to run and jump and swim when it has been accustomed to noth- ing more vigorous than clicking a type- writer or striking piano keys. If you tried to force the progress of the baby's locomotion you would soon find that the little one would come to grief. So will your body fail if you force it be- yond its limit. The proper amount and kind of ex- ercise will not only strengthen your body, but will enlarge your physical resources. But to force the capabilities of your body beyond the endurance limit is reckless and criminal. If you are quite unused do not try to accomplish first few days of your viacation. Do not and sometimes held out with a flex- try to play tennis and golf, to ride jhorseback, $o_ swim and to_take long L e S e SRR R to exercise | too much the | + 0 e e e B B R R I I i S { THE CITY GIRLON VACATION e e T e walks all at once. The first day of un- accustomed exercise should be inter- rupted by frequent and lengthy rests. Do not attempt to walk miles on your first walking trip, but just tramp until you are tired and then stop. Never it until you are too exhausted to go farther, ‘but stop when you are pleasantly fatigued. Gradually you can Increase the amount of your exercise. From a half hour's tennis on the first day you can work up to an hour or an hour and a quarter playing by the end of the ten days. The first mile may be length- ened by degrees to five or ten a day during the first fortnight. The fifteen minutes’ swim of the first day may be stretched out to forty minutes in the water, and so on. By gradually in- reasing the amount of your exercise you will avoid that complete exhaustion which always follows overdoing in any direction, and you will be obtaining the greatest benefit from your vacation. Now as to exercising in the right way. You would be surprised to know how much difference your clothes can make in the benefit derived from out- door exercise. You can walk and play and swim all to no avail, as far as the acquisition of health and strength goes, if you are clothed in a harmful way. Tight stays should be religiously avoided during vacation days. If you can wear middy suits and do without the corsets entirely, so much the better. But if you feel that you must wear your corsets in order not to lose your self respect or your figure keep them Just as loose as possible. Loose clothes, low collars and comfortable stays are most nec ry items in the search for health through the medium of exercise. Shoes for vacation wear should be chosen with an eye to protecting the feet against stones and brambles. Heavy but pliable soles, flat rubber heels, ankle high tops, these make up the right kind of walking shoes. When you set out for a walk which may be through a particularly wild stretch of country wear canvas leggings and short skirts and you will be saved many rough and ragged cuts and scratches from briers and barbed wire fences. If you wish to derive the most good from your out of door exercise you must use even more common sense than is necessary for ordinary thing: Rightly and sufficiently used, exercise will build and strengthen you, but there is such a thing as too much. USE FOR OLD I A\’L you in your collection of relics a wire frame left from a wornout lamp? If so the following suggestion will make it possible for you to root out the frame and put it to good use. After removing the dust get the exact | 3 | the size of the open space at | With these figures in your mind or on your memorandum pad buy sufficlent asbestos to cover the entire frame or the top. ents from top to bottom and | | pose. LAMP FRAME buy muslin and lamb’'s wool to make a padding to be placed around the frame; then purchase sufficient silk, linefi or cretonne to cover the heat proof frame. At the top of the shade place a doll's head to act as a handile, or if your finer sensibilities will not permit of such a thing use a loop of cording for the pur- By this time you are anxious to know what is to be done with the cov- ered frame. It I8 to act as a cozy for your teapots 3 PLAIN felt hats, HINTS FOR untrimmed, are worn They are made in blue and pink, for sports. bright yellow, green, and also in white. Smocks are now made of jersey cloth and are delightfully soft and sup- ple, in spite of their fullness. Beads are embroidered in a design that incrusts the ends of some of the new black silk and satin hand bags. They are mounted in silver and have strap handles of ribbon or stitched silk. Cretonne flowers are cut out and glued on the crowns and brims of white hats. They make effective trim- ming, and, of course, when they fade or become tiresome they can easily be re- moved with the aid of a little water. A white silk tam-o’-shanter hat shows a worsted cord and tassel as its only decoration. The new skirts in black and white stripes, of cloth and silk, are made so that the black stripe overlaps the white, and at the hips only the black SEPTEMBER shows. Lower, where the stripes open out, the white Is visible. Wide awning striped ribbons are formed Into belts, with buckles of sil- ver or brass, to wear with white skirts and blouses. Crepe de chine hats are not & nov- elty, but there are some especially pretty midsummer models of this fab- ric. Sometimes a soft ruching of the fabric encircles the crown, and some- times a little frill of it is laid sround the brim. Pockets that apparently or really button over the belt are much used on frocks and coats for both children and grownups. Big Quaker collars are made in many materials. First of organdie or other plain, sheer white fabric, they are nov made of white or colored mull and ever of lace or all over embroidery. There are to be some petticoats with Jersey tops, and these, of course, wear far better than the petticoat that is all taffeta, for a new flounce can easily be put in place of the frst one when that becomes worn. G i o o Woman's Enlarging Sphere $ -l—!—H-H—PH—!—I—I—H—Pl—H—PO-l—H—HE THE proposed employment of women as bus and tramcar conductors has been abandoned in Birmingham, Eng- land, the men having refused either to teach the women their duties or to move the vehicles on which they are engaged. Miss Theodora Keith of Weymouth, M , associate member and bugler of Reynolds post, G. A. R.. i8 the only wo- man on the roll of the Grand Army of the Republie. of age and is officlal bugler of the post. It is proposed to establish somewhere in the west of England a training school where women police can be trained for work outside of London. |1 She 1s only sixteen years | So far all the 150 women police in England have been trained in London. Thousands of washerwomen employ- ed in the public wash houses of Paris are facing a serfous crisis. After one year of war many familles whose budgets have diminished are retrench- ing and are using oficloth instead of linen on the table and doing their own washing and laundry work. Miss Agnes Cecelia Wright, a Chip- pewa Indian girl from northern Minno- sota, has enrolled as a student in & Washington business college, where she expects to enlighten herself enough to pass a civil service examination and receive an appointment upon menrit and not because she is an Indian, In the forty-three years she has been |carrying the mail from the trairs the postoffice at Lancaster, I'a, Mra, Samuel Walters has made 100,000 mp. without missing & mall. to