New Britain Herald Newspaper, February 19, 1915, Page 11

Mme. la Mode Gives * "Us the “Washington™ e s — 'Y way of compliment to America, whose history is more brief and less romantic than that of European TWtions, a certain suit model is built ¥ith a continental coat, which has deen dubbed “the Washington.” Its Jalient feature is the springing lines of phe coat skirt, which is emphasized Into a godet resemblance and is cut a fittle longer in front than at the back. The waistcoat is an incorporated part »f this model. It may be of plain fab- ric, flowered or striped, but always it Is Yextended below the waist line, and usually it is single breasted and fas- tened on a sloping line. The cuffs, too, are Washingtonian— fiat is, they are wide and flaring, very € those noted in the illustrations of ze garments worn by the colonial of- ers. To wear with suits of this de- ,eription there are hats of the tricorne bicorne persuasion that give a con- ent finish to the whole. Because of the greater interest that Rttaches to styles and fabrics saturated with rgmantic history the designers have given great care to.the study of intique fabrics and patterns. Old pal- #ces have been ransacked for tapes- fries and laces that have not already lallen into the hands of the various povernments and been made part of national museums. A5 a matter of fact, the museums themselves offer a never ending source of inspiration to those interested in the serious study of dress and its re- lation to modern apparel. Iurope is Tich In its collections of antique stuffs d fashions. Perhaps it is because of this fact that foreign designers can @laim superiority over American de- signers. Not only are the collections available ‘on every ‘hand in the great capitals of Europe, but the men and men interested -in dress progress ayail themselves of these splendid op- portunities to know the sartorial past apd to link it with the future. §All this is being gradually demon- strfifed in models advanced-to take-the place of current fashions. To the wo- mah who knows her history the evo- Jutlon conveys a deeper meaning than thas stamped on the surface. And for that reason it is again advised that a JMittle knowledge of dress in' its more gerious phase will lend a new note of enjoyment to the selection and wear-< ing of Mme. la Mode's latest creations. ABOUT WOMEN. Women are now taking up proofreading as a vocation. Over 10,000 women are now out of employment in Cleve- land. _ Female stenographers in New York city number over 33,000. Four women out of six who trXed for a position as bacteri- ist in the Philadelphia board ealth succeeded, while but one man of nine passed the ex- amination successfully. Her skirt is sheer and very short; Her waist is low both front and + baek. No wunder, then, that strong men o GREAT many people were born on the same day as our great A lack!™ —ludge or! 4 "Alail Alack! A lass! TWO PICTURE GOWNS 'O admirable gowns that are copied from paintings that hang n Versailles and were there when the ermans made their other raid on ris; and settled in the palace and pfrom there turned: the king of Prus- ‘#ia into a German' emperor have been Bent over here. One of these frocks is of yellow taf- feta, showing wheels of gold embroid- ery” The skirt is widely circular and much shorter in front than in back. It is mounted on' a fitted, plaited yoke of yellow chiffon. | -The bodice is of tinted lace in a Jsquare open pattern with a ‘battlé- mented edge, which is used as a finish o the top. This lace is arranged’in a most alluring way; a single piece is hahdled for the low bodice over a tight lining of the yellow silk. This piece is more than two yards long, is gathered into the walist and is caught up at each side under the- arm to go over the shoulder and form a kind of. loose sleeve, which is merely a graceful bit of drapery. Where it goes over the shoulder it is caught by a silver edel- welgs. Between the shoulders the lace falls over on itself, draping like a pertha, back and front. There is also a reversal to, or, rather, & strong suggestion of, other days in England when Cromwell was in power in a charmeuse model. In truth, one girl who chose this model at the first George Washington. Most of them are not heroes or hero- ines, but just plain everyday folk who ol b bbb bbb dobddbdbdobdppp ' like 10 be remembered upon their re- NEW BRITAIN DAILY spectivg birthdays. Women especially like td be remembered, and pictured here are three gifts which would make any woman happy. The one on the left is a perfectly stunning negligee of pale pink geor- HERALD, DAY, FEBRUARY )} 1915. e gette crape with trimmings of val lace and rosettes and beading of pink satin ribbon. The kimono sleeves are cut off at the elbow and finished with deep gathered ruffles. A flat collar of dotted sV is edged with plaited val and finished with a cluster of sweet peas fashioned of ribbon. This is worn with a dotted swiss boudoir cap which droops over the shoulders. The illustration upon the right is of a very charming oriental evening scarf of cream colored crape. The ends are heavily fringed. In the center is a bonbon box. It is surrounded by U. S. A. shields and contains a cherry tree of diminutive trunk and large fruit ‘and leaves. Now a few words about cotton for the summer. Organdies, it is predicted, will hold first place in fashion’s favor. The printed forms will be f(‘.)(ured Domestic manufacturers have gone ahead busily on these lovely fabrics, of sheer cottons of any sort. There will be, dies, embroidered organdies, mostly col- ored figures on a white ground. Voiles are going to be used deal the coming summer. There were enormous quantities of these shippe:d to Switzerland from France eurly the summer last year to be embroid- ered for this year’'s trade. T& be available to A rican fash Printed voiles are wiiso good, and c ed v s will be secn, wi spaced single or used in produce attractiv ts Cords in cott of suminer wear, Borders in printed form are another novelity. Of special Interest at this time is the increased . attention given to the per- fecting of a permanent finish to popu- lar priced cotton dr goods. Buyers who have made t the finish ap- plied to popular p voile tate that it is unchanged a vepeated wash- ings and will remain atter long wear. ed tor figuring on a dearth of foreign imports | besides printed organ- | n goods W ‘ll be a phase a great | i the cords | groups to “oiton s{uffs woven from yarns dyed Lein are an interesting feature in mi-sheer cotton dre: goods. Tis- sues in woven colors have gained | mewhat in favor because of the large { popularity of sheer and semi-sheer | weaves and of plain and figured voiles | silk marqguisettes. rding wash fabries, there will much use of zephyrs and cottons for tailor mades. A new wash fabric as filete is being made. This lin ¢he {and | Re i be | | known showing of frocks named it Cromwell at once, and the name should stick. It is of putty colored charmeuse, fas- tened straight down the back, with tight sleeves ending in wide turnover cuffs. Washington’s Birthday Favor For Child s Party “,‘ASHI\GTO‘\"S birthday is a very popular holiday for children. II- lustrated is a bonbon box to be used as a favor at a child's party. Sweet Grass Baskets ERE is a sweet grass sewing basket, and any woman who has never own- ed one of the fragrant things has no idea of the pleasure derived from This one 1s lined with crimson silk and is fitted up as a workbasket. ORIGIN OF THE THIMBLE. IMPLE as is the thimble, it is an almost indispensable accessory of present day sewing, but it is only for 230 years that thimbles have existed. Before that time the needle was pushed through the cloth, usually with the thumb, without the aid of the little me- tallic cap. One may be permitted to believe that the needle was sometimes pressed against the table or chair, as sometimes, perhaps, the modern needle- woman supplements her thimble wnh a handy piece of furniture. In 1684 the thimble was invented, and it is said it was called thimble because it was a bell for the thumb—first called thumb bell. It is true, too that there is an Icelandic word thummel that means thumb and that, so the diction- aries say, is the origin of thimble. This first thimble, with many after it, was worn on the thumb, just as the sailmaker’s thimble of today is worn. His has a hole in the top, but the metal cap or bell that fitted over the end of the thumb. « It was not very long before thimbles had gone all over the world. Women, in those days at least, were much in- terested in needlework. They took as much interest in their thimbles then as they now take in the buckles for their tango slippers, and perhaps a little more, for the sort of buckle one wears does not really add much to one’s com- fort or pleasure, and an elaborate and costly thimble then did add to the pleasure of sewing. It is said that the costliest thimble that ‘ever was made belongs to the royal house of Siam. It was given by one of the kings to his queen, and it cost $15,000. It is made of gold, in the form of a half open lotus flower—the emblem of the royal Siamese house. Diamonds and other precious stones are set in it to form the name of the queen and the date of her marriage. An American millionaire’s daughter was said to have the second most ex- pensive thimble. Hers cost $4,000, but she is not a daughter of this genera- tion. Their interests lie otherwise than in thimbles. DELICIOUS DESSERT. AKE .a dozen maoaroons, put in a bowl and pour over enough hot | cream to cover; let them stand till cold and then beat up with a wooden spoon. Take two eggs and beat the whites and yolks separately, add to the macaroons, stirring all the time. Butter some small custard cups, pack the mixture in and bake ten minutes. It makes them richer to add a gill of brandy, well| mixed in, before putting in the cups to| bake, but this can be left out if one ob- Jects to brandy. In that case a little more of the cream might be necessary. | ROSEMARY FOR SOAP. Rather than use impure soap Bern- hardt will use dried rosemary. Bernhardt feels that American wo- first little thimble was probably a little | | ILK stockings striped around I'th | ne: o Zfargosfesioufocfortoofecordesforforfefucfonfeefenfecerforfec]e -!“" NEW CHINA } PLAQUES MHESE charraing little reproductions in dull ehina of some famous Mil- let paintings are among the novelties found in the shops. They resemble Wedgwood and are adorably framed in dull woods tinted to harmonize v the soft colers of the replicas. — GAY HOSIERY IN FASHION. and in Persian effect—Persian arranged in ir ular stripes do not clash for all their brig —dre one of the stocking novelties of the season Other silk stockings are varie- gated from toe to top. At the toe end they are light, soft and change gradually into magent or deep, brizht green. Another pair around colors gay deep men eat too many sweets and drink t0o much tea and coftee, pur € toe and blends changes) gradvally into decp orange. they | L | to get the is | and [each BLUE STILL FAVORITE COLOR. T[HOSE who are.in the business of selling clothes are interested in the ifact that the buying public has not had its fill of dark blue. It asks for it as often now as it did in September, de- spite the growing pepularity of covert, sand and beige, as well as putty. These shades are at the height of fashion, al- though the manufacturers say - that they were not included in the color 'DARK which The of Paris for spring use and usually rules the output here. make and sell these shades, and there {is every reason to suppose that the women will continue to like them. For a time they have been ranked as ex- clusive colors; now they will go out broadcast to the continent. They are admirable for spring, giving one a lit- tle relief from the uniformity of blue, but they evidently will not oust it. For spring it will come out in several kinds of silk, as there is little doubt that this fabric will be the one to reckon with for several months. Taf- feta will again be brought forward, but women seem to prefer it for informal evening gowns rather than for every- day frocks. With a bullion design of a flowered surface it will be the smart fabric for’ dinner frocks. It is only fashionable in light colors and in white. In black it is taboo. There is already much speculation about the joining of soft silks and flar- ing circular skirts for spring, but if both remain in' fashion after the French openings no doubt the design- ers will find some good way out of the difficulty. Much can be done by bor- rowing from the ideas used in evening gowns made of silk net, which now have flaring five and six yard skirts held out by thick bullion cord. A cable cord of velvet or silk can replace this one on silk street skirts. The advance fashions in dark blue show the usage of white satin in the vay of wrinkled stock collars and wide turnover cuffs, in wide belts of white kid with pearl buckles and even in white satin hems when the nature of the frock allows one. This is a good idea for the woman to assimilate if she is given wearing dark blue. It would brighten that serge frock she |has now and make it a bit different from what it has been. FOREST SPIRITS. THE woman of today remarks tnat the members of her family are all and then and she l~ruids in old well wood, says she must “touch does it, even as the Britain sought to pro- pitiate the trees and the nymphs pre- siding over the trees. The dryads were propitiated with gifts of milk, oil and honey by the Greeks Every woman, it is safe to say. ne superstition, and “touching wood” £00d will of the spirit of the is only one of many from which may choose her own particular superstition, tree with fine cords spaced form and white and in colors. Cotton coverts will knockabout use. Ty Wit fabric is a zephyr ground ornamented in grouped and is shown both be worn for THE maniun ix o come to stay, from Paris, whe jends tiveness to Parisian d and Parisian boyle courses, has become a well as an ornament, to ing salons. She came in more or le makers’ conventions and “style shows.” She has, function being to embol dream In dress. ? She raises a slim arm g blended colors of a d vealed She turns hy poised head and a ne disclosed. If she ls. trives to do these things ing to do them, yet eve and picturesque attitud to invite attention te wears. Enhancing the artifig the mode with her pes she is all that the dress] when she made the go' An essential factor ¥ of the mode, she is spicuous figure and an The smart world and knows little. Seeking to discover individual she may be of the smart trappin wears so bravely, one fia that she is just a i girlhood. If she is p nected with one of the ing houses one may early in the morning the establishment clad 11 ed frock, neatly shod a trig litthe hat atop coifed head. Should the pink of trifle too pink under th ing raye of the mornin recalled that there is preparation once she nation and that before o even youth will find co that weariness cannot tial roses in her cheeks. For to slip from on another all morning lo task, and even a silken unexpected weight wh ed it innumerable tim a carpet salon. The American maniki herself nor her profi ously. In fact the m country is usually a m ually, when some moré cupation flags. The French manikin her being for the exp displaying clothes, Her profession extends m: the time during which public. Many a tofl spends in acquiring the and in perfecting her cl Dressmakers here are sidering adopting the of launching their seems not at all wunlil early date Ameriean the fascinating fizure picturesque the of Paris may be enc down our best bou rd noon or sipping tea at o restaurants. in in HOW TO REMOVE GRIR T is very difficult to remove dust. wash cloth and warm water at best within easy reach, the ways be kept white the method of procedure| A card which is sent out from the mills | American manufacturers, however, will | remove but little of it. If you really wish to see how much dust the face can take up in a shopping trip take a damp wash cloth when you arrive home and dip it in your cold cream jar. Then scrub your face and neck. The result |is rather depressing. The wash cloth is so black that one is horror struck to think that so much dust has been car- {ried on the face even for a short while. If on the washstand a jar of ordinary cold cream and a jar of yellow Indian meal are kept in readiness, 5o as to be hands In water; then then add a bit of the co hands, and, last, dip th Indian meal. This form paste on the hands, enough grit to the a the dust out of the po thoroughly washed in then ringed. The M fully pink and white, of the cream stays to talcum powder with dusted. Child’s Basket ITYHE nifty child’s hat fllustrated hereis ed with blue straw. ples and leaves The garniture is Shaped of white chip straw, the of blue setin ribbon, wi