New Britain Herald Newspaper, January 8, 1915, Page 12

rs we have ac- he narrow shoul- p lack of curve be- jand hips. We have rts and preferred cause our skirts ed for the result. psculinity with slit street gowns and vere all too trans- e Fashion has be- high time, too,f I ish to know my 8 a new silhouette ng of style stand- [houlder line is the er silhouette that ithe new order of be normal, neither and the skirt will jubtless, before the vings back again. ing skirts until eme will be found able than skirts have been for some time. In the illus- trations shown the general changing of the silhouette can be traced. At the left is one of the new models in which the tunic is dispensed with, and there is shown almost every variety of tunic that has been worn during the past season. A There is another wide skirt coming into fashion that will not be so easy to hang as was the one shown in the il- lustration at the left, and that is the circular skirt, unless we adopt the French idea of accentuating the de- fects caused by sagging and thus transform them into real style features. When the wide circular skirt was first launched Premet noticed the defects caused by sagging, so she lifted the skirt upon each side and let it fall in a point front and back. This was a pretty and graceful fashion. One no- ticed directly that it was intentional and not caused by improper hanging, and so your sense of the fitness of things was satisfied. The French are clever and real artists. Only a French- woman could, have thought of that. The result is fascinating, and you need never worry about the sagging. There is a way to make a rippled skirt that ANUARY 8, 1015, RE YOU GOING TO LIKE TH cannot sag, and that is to cut melon shaped gores—godets the French call them. These joined together, a bias edge against a straight edge, counter- act the bias tendency to sag. | But these edges must be sewed to- gether with much care or the result would be something to marvel at. The full skirt of straight breadths | sewed together and gathered at the waist line, then “gauged” in the old fashioned way to fit the figure, will also be worn, but this f: will be coming only to the v slender The styles shown still good and will servative women fashion's mandate be figur: however, worn dare the wide shion Ty here be re n- disobey skirt, by who for E NEW SILHOUETT materials in her possession would be able to select a style from the ones |shown here, in which two materials could be combined, for not all women will wear the wide skirt, at least not before midsummier, but it is on the way ’and the woman who wishes to utilize = F MANY a woman will hail with relief | 4% and joy the significant percentage | of high collars and gufmpes among the | new neckwear. | The low collar and low cut neck of | the daytime frock -have been com- le far as physical sensation but they have been hard on the | spirits of the women who did not look well in them, and what is physical com- | fort compared with wounded vanity ? The change has come gradually. Just so Daytime Low Necked Dresses about the time the last recalcitrant subinittted to the apparently unavoid- able and allowed her make her look ten year rider by cut- ting her daytime blous nd bodices down more or less radically at the neck the women who had launched ‘the day time decolletage began roll thel collars up against their necks in the back and on the sides, thercby in many cases conferring a boon upon the eral public, for if there is anything less dressmaker to to gen- Passe " & | sightly than the front of an unyouth- | ful and scrawny or too plump neck it | is the nape or side view of that | neck | The | front throat was left uncovered in It is still left free in a majority of the guimpes and collars, but the al around high collar has appeared or some of the very smartest frocks, ane the high sides and back, clinging man and more closely, proclaim themselve: more and more assertively. DSOME ured here is developed in white Bones under arms and at back. oulder straps. ation of brassiere and corset cover. BRASSIERE ilk and cluny lace, with This is a Very good under sheer OF SLEEVES. uming special im- set well in the g over the hand. ered into a wrist- pllowing. Some are ono plan. The va- eeves, as well as | skirts, cannot be gain d. The Louis XIV. coat revived shows the sleeves of that period. Distinct sleeves from the dress have no following, though the plain colored tunics are worn over checked skirts. In everything there is a touch of the oriental, especially regards the size of the.walst. as Restaurant Life Shows Fashions as Well as Fads NEW YORK'S gay restaurant life is an intensely interesting spectacle for the sojourner from out of town. In no city in the Union is there anything that approaches it in brilliance or in an almost continental gayety. In Chica- go, in San Francisco, in Philadelphia and other American cities well dressed | folk may be seen any evening dining and supping in an atmosphere ap- proaching that of the metropolis, but in New York the Great White Way brilliantly white long after midnight, carriages and taxicabs dash along the asphalt until dawn, and when in other cities all is quiet and dark New York's restaurant life is still at its gayest and brightest. The climax of this gayety is to be observed between 11 o’clock and midnight, when the theaters are pouring their crowds out into Broad- way and the side streets flanking Long- acre square. Women in delicate gowns and magnificent furs wait at the the- ater entrances for their taxis, and if the distance to the favorite supper place be short elaborate dressed folk make it on foot. One thinks nothing of seeing hatless women, wrapped in gorgeous theater coats, but stepping in thin satin slippers, on the icy pave- ment of Broadway, and everybody is happy, care free—so it seems—intent only on the pleasure of the evening, the play just enjoyed and the appetizing bite just ahead. of women in is ! New York whose sole diversion of a social nature is afforded by the restau- rant life. Ior the theater and the sup- per following it they select their even- ing gowns, and in the restaurant they play their part of the social drama, quite satisfied, apparently, that life has not cast them for a role in some more exclusive social circle. They entertain and are entertained after the theater in the restaurants, and during the day they give luncheons or teas—also in the restaurants—for their women ac- quaintances who. are also restaurant devotees. The gowns and wraps worn in the New York restaurants in the evening would grace any private ball, however magnificent. Hats have become so un- popular for theater wear, not only be- cause they are taboo during the play, but also because it is so tiresome to hold them or to wait in line after the play at a hat checking stand, that with elaborate evening gowns they have al- most been abandoned now. This ab- sence of hats gives the assemblage of beautifully gowned women in a fash- ionable restaurant a more formal and less casual suggestion—as though the occasion were a social one, with guests assembled under a hospitable roof— than a mere restaurant suggestion of people dropping in to eat and pay and greatly adds to the impressive bril- liancy of the scene. Almost all restaurant gowns for the evening are cut without trains, for one never knows where there may be a chance to dange, and many of the fash- iomable supper places provide accom- modations for Terpsichore and make the dancing muse their chief drawing card. Sometimes the theater or opera gown has a short train, added for the sake of dignity and impressiveness, which may be looped under by an ar- rangement of snap fasteners so that the gown is made comfortable for dancing. The restaurant gown, in con- trast with the ball gown, has sleeves of one sort or another, usually sleeves of tulle or chiffon coming to the wrist, but sometimes mere filmy folds of airy stuff draped over the upper arm. Wo- men who seek their social diversion entirely in the gayety of the restau- rants do not hesitate to wear their jew- els for the benefit of all who care to behold, but the highly bred woman who has a sure place in an exclusive soclal circle hesitates to deck herself out conspicuous gems for a public appear- ance in a restaurant-—unless the occa- sion be a select little party at some ex- clusive supper place after the oper very restaurant of the better sort has its luxurious cloakroom, where wraps may be checked if milady pleases, but milady is apt to wear her $1,000 ermine coat into the restaurant proper and let it slip from her shoul- ders to the back of her chair, where not only herself, but all the rest of the diners, may keep an eye on its mag- nificence. There are thousands i % e L] Lemon Pudding. UT two ounces of butter in a sauce- pan and when melted stir in slowly one tablespoonful of flour and one ta- blespoonful of cornmeal. When the in- gredients form a thick paste add quickly one pint of milk and stir until the mixture has boiled and thickened. Remove from the stove and add three rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind of one large lemon and one teaspoonful of vanilla. ¥old in the yolks of two eggs, which have been beaten previously, and one teaspoonful of finely chopped candied lemon peel. Add one pinch of salt to the whites of the eggs and wh to a stiff froth. | When the pudding is cold add the whites of the eggs and the juice of the lemon. Cover with a thick puff paste, brown in a medium oven and serve with cream. Timbale of Pumpkin. One pint of stewed and sifted pump- kin, one -tablespoonful of butter, four 700000000000 0000000000000¢ OWWOOMMQ“OOMM““““MOQMM: Five Delicious Desserts 000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 eggs beaten, half a cupful of sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful of ginger, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and a half a pint of milk. Pour into buttered molds. Set in a pan of water in a mod- erate oven until firm. When the tim- bales are cold unmold and serve with whipped cream. Mixed Fruit Pudding. Peel and core enough tart apples to fill a deep baking pan. Fit them in nugly and fill in the holes left by the cores with seedless raisins and bits of shredded citron and lemon peel. Dust with sugar. Pour over them half a cupful of water and bake in a slow oven until perfectly tender. Remove them from the oven, sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs, dust with F and bake ten minutes longer. with the following sauce: Beat together in a stewpan one ta blespoonful of flour and one-half cup- ful of sugar. Pour over this a cupful of boiling water and bring to a boil. Serve » !n§ Remove from the fire and pour this slowly over one egg well beaten. ¥la- vor with a dash of lemon. Pour over the baked fruit and serve immediately Lemon Dumplings. Half a pound of breadcrumbs, half a pound of finely chopped suet, a quar- ter of a pound of dried flour, the rind and the juice of one lemon and two eggs. Mix together well, form into dumplings, tie in cloths and boil two hours. Steamed Fruit Pudding. Cover the of a butter mold with dices of bread lightly buttered Over this place a layer of stewed ap ples or peaches, then another layer « bread and butter, alternating with the fruit until the mold three-quarters full. Pour over this a custard posed of two eggs, one-half a of sugar and a pint of milk the cover of the mold tight, drop into hoiling water and hour. Serve witli snuce or sweetened crean. bottom is com- cupful Fasten one steam TAKE SYSTEMATIC EXERCISE. YHE woman who docs her own house- work (and that the fortune of the majority) is usually worn out at the end of the day. She is apt to con- clude, therefore, that exer not intended for her. She couldn’t make a greater mistake. A woman needs a half hour’s rest near the mid- dle of the day, it is true, but she needs also systematic and stimulating ex e is a word 'DAINTY COLLAR A when the d illustraied TPHIS is the time of year nings. The stitched inserts of set is bati s could pink har blue or te hanging heavil her hersolf ainty developed of sheer |cise. One reason why women are fatigued at the end of the day is that they muscle Half an hour ;nr brisk exercise suited to the peculiar |needs of each individual, taken regu- {larly, followed by a cold dash of water, | will serve to keep the whole muscular |and nervous system in tone and work wonders In keeping the eyes bright and the good, something that all wo- men desire. s0 lack tone color ND CUFF SET collar and set has cuff white batiste The girl with clever finger fashion its in- with hem- and time such tor dainty accessories same