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.. "NEW BRITAIN DAV wERALD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 20, 1914 Black Satin Is Being Used More Now Than Fashion Scribes Ever Heard Of No One Knows the Reason But It Contrbutes Greatly to Effect of Many New Models—Basques Are Respon- sible for Appearance Black satin, in yardage or ribbon, has more vogue than has been its por- tion within the memory of the most elderly of fashion scribes. What is the reason for it no one preténds to know. That it contributes greatly to * the effect of many new models, no one denies. Both piece satin and ribbon are em- pioyed in the development of an after- roon costume which has two of the salient features of current models—the much ruffled skirt and the long, plain basque. That basque, in black satin, is dart- less and is seamed only on the shoul- ders, where it lies smoothly, and at the sides, toward which it puckers from blindly' closed fronts. Black tulle sleeves, set plainly into short-should- ered arm-eyes, gain fullness as they lengthen toward the wrist, where they are twice shirred, making a wide puff band behind deep ruffles. Basque Sponsors for Neck Ruffs. Basques are responsible for the ap- ap‘&nnce of a new neck ruff that is eagerly welcomed by the woman who rever liked the low cut bodice, even vhile adopting it—since one may as well be out of the world as out of fashion. The new ruff is from four to five inches high and straight up from the throat’s base, framing the face as petals frame the 1 calyx of a flower. It goes far toward balancing the effects of hats whose brims steadily grow wider. Clearly the ruff is per- fectly suited to the long basque, for it carries out the severe lines of its front and back as no turned-over frill could possible do. % On the satin basque above described the ruff is gathered under an upstand- «¢ ing neck band of black satin ribbon of * the samé width as that bordeding six black maline ruffles trimming the skirt from hips to feet. Five of these ruffles stand perkily away from their founda- tion, while the lower one, somewhat drooping and incredibly scant, gives the costume a narrow appearance about the ankles, The same effect’is repeated at the shoulders. Hats Now of Exaggerated Width. Of exaggerated width just now, al- though it will not be so when the win- ter shapes are to be seen everywhere, is the hat which accompanies this af- ternoon frock. It is of black velvet, fat of crown, but so broad of brim that the flatly laid white aigrette trimming it'extends far beyond the shouiders of the wearéef. b3 7.X Picot-edged satin ribbon .is very ¥ much worn. Entire skirts, practically, are made of it, That these are im- 11ensely appealing goes without say- ing. trills is something essentially nine. Imagine 7 picot-edged black satin ribbon ruffles trimming a satin skirt from hips to feet! Tube-narrow and & tube-shaped is that foundation, skirt and on it the ruffles are so placed that the picot of each successive ruffle comes two inches above the corded heading of the one imediately pre- ceding it. ; To this fascinating ‘skirt ‘belongs a white blouse—the filmiést of affairs in maline—almost concealed, save for its ~wbishop’s sleeves, by the broadest of tlack satin shoulder drapings. Level with the armpits, these drapings run under a third wide strip of satin swathing the figure crosswise and forming its bodice. Below the hor- izontal strip at the raised waist line, th eshoulder drapings become a sash, twice swathe the waist and hips and at the left of back are joined in two ends which fall over the skirt. Ermine Adorns Black Satin. Ermine is very cleverly used to lighten and enrich certain black satin costumes. One distinctive looking frock has a hip swathing girdle ending at KEENEY'S femi- WEEK BEGINNING AUGUST 17. Dancing Expert WHITE AND WHITE Musical Act THT LEVY FAMILY Juggler CLATUDE AUSTIN Ernest Garr and Company THE GRAFTER Flying Acrobats THE DAMASCUS TROUPE LAKE GOMPOUNCE Band Concert Every Sunday Afternoon. Vaudeville, 2 Performances daily, 3:45 and 8:15 P. M. Table D’Hote Dinners, 12 to 3 P, M. A La Cart Scrvice at All Hours. & NORTON, Bristol, Conn. PIERCE Props. stands almost | For about the skirt of many little, of New Neck Ruff. the top of a coarded-headed, straight- cut vard-deep flounce, An ermine band furnishes the collar for the deeply pointed fronts of a blouse whose raglan shaped shoulders, outlined with a wide cording, simulate | a bolero. Far below the bust the white fur collar in joined by a single ermine tail of such an extreme length that it makes a slender pale line almost to the lower edge of the hip swathing sash. | Two widths of black satin ribbon— one of inch breadth the other of three- inch breadth—form stripes on the straight cut of overskirt of black tulle imposed upon the white silk under- dress of a magpie afternoon costume. Some distance below the knees the overskirt is widely bordered with a black fox band, which serves to hold it well away from the figure and, by contrast, makes the white skirt seem exceptionally narrow. Cording Flattens Hip Fulness. About the hips the fulness is flat- tened by double strands of heavy black silk cording. These drop from cord cabochons set high above the waist | line of a black satin bodice that is gathered, not bloused, under a moder- ately widé crush girdle in self mater- ial. Thesatin sleeves, narrow and set into short shouldered arm-eyes, end at the wrist with deep frills of white lace matching a collar, sole trimming of the bodice. Very modest is this collar. Slightly rolled at the back of the neck, whose nape it veils, it runs to short points under the ears, turns back slightly be- iow the throat and tapers into flat ly- ing bands defining and filling in the sharply pointed fronts of the bodice. PICTURES ENJOYED AT FOX’S THEATER Crowding the palatial Fox theater to its very capacity at all of the per- formances yesterday, the Fox ‘patrons were treated to one of the best and greatest motion picture productions ever offered in this city. The “Port | of Missing Men,” a Famous Players release not only has that eminent dramatic actor, Arnold Daly, in the leading role, but he is supported by a cast of Broadway favorites, among/ them being Miss Marguetite Skirvin, | the little miss who has delighted the HOW “TIT” HELPS SORE, TIRED FEET Good-bye sore feet, hurning feet, swol- len feet, sweaty feet, smelling feet, tired feet. Good-bye corns, callouses, bunions and raw spots. No more shoe tight- ness, no more limping with pain or drawing up your face in sgony. “TIZ” is magical, acts right off. “TIZ” draws out all the poisonous exuda- tions which puff up the feet. Use “TIZ” and for- et your foot misery. Ah! how com- %ortnble your feet feel. Get a 25 cent box of “TIZ” now at any druggist or department store. Don’t suffer. Have good feet, glad feet, feet that never swell, never hurt, never get tired. A year’s foot comfort guaranteed or money refunded. NEW BRITAIN’S FAVOR- ITE ACTRESS Marguerite Skirvin FOX’S TODAY ONLY SUPPORTING Arnold Daly In Daniel Frohman's Production of “The Port of Missing Men” A Five Part Photo-Play of Romance, Intrigue and Adventure COMING TOMORROW Mary Pickford In OF THE STORM COUNTRY” “TESS PRICES Afternoons, all Seats 5c Evenings 5c and 10c, I MEANS CLEAN EACH PATTERN CAN BE USED No. 207 PATENTED J Send this Coupon toge: patterns. WRITE NAME AND Name...cootoonansonssoses Street. THIS PATTERN SERVICE OVER AND OVER AGAIN Friction Transfer Patterns ther with ten cents in coin or stamps to this paper for one package contsining two sheets of friction transfer | g:ixmd to-day. Inaddition,there CENTERPIECE Size of Pattern 1214x9 PATTERN COUPON UNE 3, 1913. - ADDRESS CLEARLY NO PENCIL TRACING--NO HOT These patterus do away with tedious tracing with hot irons, wit{:e the use of carbon paper. They can lass, china. wood, ‘metal, gubbi‘ngmr the desi, Wfemd or your thumb nail. be used many times. this page you will receive an envel containing two sheets of transfer patterns. | One Maid’s Apron, Bib, Oap, Collar Band and Cuff design, One Corner for Lunch Cloth, Beveral Initials and Monograms. IRON--MERELY A RUB OF THE THUMB NAIL IN THIS SYSTEM THE NEWEST METHOD IN TRANSFERRING ered to any material, finen, gn with 2 spoon ach design can For 10 cents and the coupon on In it _will be the desi 11 one sheet of designs, including, We are piucing & coupon in each package of FRICTION TRANSFER PATTERNS. Ten of these coupons ENTITLE you FREE OF CHARGE to an EMBROIDERY OUTFIT consisting of one celluloid finger protector, one tusk bone stiletto, one celluloid ~ilk and thread winder, and ten assorted embroidery needles. New Britain audiences a goodly part of last season. The tense story of a powerful struggle against conspiracy and treachery, for a heart and throne is vividly and minutely depicted, and the least one can say is that it is the last word in motion picture produc- tions. This masterful production will also be shown today with a change of the single reels which augment the excellent program, and those who have not as yet seen this excellent feature will do well to drop into Fox’s theater, and be convinced that none but the very best photo plays are shown there. The single reels for today, exclu- sive of the big Famous Players fea- ture, are ‘“The Hearst-Selig News Pic- torial” that much looked for periodi- ca] showing the most recént and im- portant happenings the world over, which includes the very latest war news, Iniversal Ike,” that extreme- ly funny character in one more of his excruciatingly funny episodes, and two others that will round out two FREE ADVICE T0 SICK WOMEN Thousands Have BeenHelped By Common Sense Suggestions. Women suffering from any form of female ills are invited to communicate promptly with the woman’s private | correspondence de- | partment of the Ly- dia E. Pinkham Med- icine Co., Lynn, Mass. Your letter will be opened, read and answered by a B woman and held in strict confidence. A woman can freely talk of her private illness to a woman ; thus has been established a confidential correspondence which has extended over many years and which has never been broken. Never have they published a testimonial or used a letter without the written consent of the writer,and never has the Company allowed these confi- dential letters to get out of their pos- session, as the hundreds of thousands of them in their files will attest. Out of the vast volume of experiencs | which they have to draw lrom,,l?is more | than possible that they possess the very | }moyledgednieeded in your case. Noth- ng is asked in return except r good will, and their advice has l';elm thou- sands. Surely any woman, rich or poor, | should be glad to take advantage of this generous offer of assistance. Address | Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine Co., (con- fidential) Lynn, Mass. Every woman ought to have Lydia :-E. Pinkham’s 80-page Text Book. It is not a book for general distribution, as it is too expensive. It is free and only obtainable by mail. Write for it today. | tion of the world. The theme solid hours of pleasing and highly entertaining features. For tomorrow and Saturday an- other Famous Players Film produc- tion, ‘“Tess of the Storm Country,” will be offered with America's fore- most- screen artist, Mary Pickford, in the leading role. Mary Pickford, the celebrated screen artist in ‘‘Tess of the Storm Country” attains a dra- matic triumph greater than any that has yet distinguished her phe- nomena] career. “Tess of the Storm Country,” the drama of a woman’s unconquerable faith, written by a woman who knows her sex, will ap- peal to the entire feminine popula- is full of uplift and the dramatic situations often force a-tear of which one need not be ashamed. Mary Pickford as Tess, the ragged little “Squatter” girl, dirty but beautiful, rude, wilful, saucy, but noble and self-sacrificing, renders a portrayal of inexhaustible fascination. During the series of the Famous Players’ productions the prices of admission will be the same as heretofore charged. ASKS FUNDS FOR RED CROSS WORK IN WAR Contributions for the Red Cross fund for European war relief work have been coming in very slowly from | the United States, it is announced in a letter sent out by Miss Mabel Board- man, chairman of the national exec- utive committee, at Washington. Funds are needed at once to send over the Red Cross ship with a corps of surgeons and nurses and surgical equipment and hospital supplies. Don- ors who wish to do so, it is explained, may designate the country for which they wish their contributions used. Miss Boardman writes in part: “It seems strange that a year ago, in two weeks' time, about $2,000,000 came in for the Ohio flood relief and that The Good Time Atmosphere By RUTH CAMERON. The desire of mankind for happiness is the most deeply imp of human instincts. It always irritates me when I hear some crab! old person say in criticism of a young girl, “She is too fond of a good) time.” ‘ Why shouldn’t she be fond of a good time, Mrs. Crustyness? If she) weren’t, she wouldn’t be a normal young person. There is somethin wrong about people when they stop liking a good time, They havi crushed a normal instinct and it maknes them abnormal, To like a good time and to try to have one is not selfish in itself. It is only when you make that the sole object of your life and trample heed. lessly on other people’s feelings to attain it that it becomes selfish. Besides, people who have a good time make other people have a goo time. They are a joy to have about, They carry the good times atmosphe; with them. “Is Margaret going on the picnie?” we ask. ‘‘That is splendid, will surely have a good time.” We know that Margaret is one of th whole-souled, energetic, jolly folke wWho are always looking for a good time,| who find it in the simplest things and who incidentally help others find it, “I have given up trying to have a good time,” I heard a woman the other day. .“There’s too much work to be done in the world."” It sounded very fine and self sacrificing, but is it the best attitude? Stevenson says, “Our greatest duty to our neighbor is to make him a little happier if we can,” and I don’t think this woman fulfills that duty. She has stopped having a good time; she never has the good times mosphere about her. Quite to the contrary. As a result her childrens! and husband feel thig lack in their home, although I doubt if they ecould define it, and they are happier out of the house than in it. She is doing her duty towards them in a material sense, and absolutely failing them in the way Stevenson defines our duty. You may remember the little prayer of which I told you, “Help ma to be happy and to make others s0.” To my mind that is an all em petition, and I am sure that nobody could fulfill those conditions, who has ceased to care whether he has a good time or not. Don’'t stop wanting to be happy. It isn't good for you or anyene ahout Learn to be less selfish and indifferent to others in yoeur seareh for you. It's healthy and normal to feel that happiness. but keep on wanting it. way. One thing more,—did you ever thank one of those people who e gift of happiness and who bless the world by sharing it? I did ¢ other day and found him unconscious of his service, and deeply hed] by my acknowledgement, You see he always carried the good time ats mosphere with him, and so he never realized what it meant to be with. out it, and how much his presence bestowed. The entrance of some people into a room is as if another candle were lighted, but since they bring the| brightness with them, they do not realize the change they have made. 1C - Daily Fashion Talks BY MAY: MANTON mainly in Massachusetts, and that when the Messina earth- | quake occurred $1,000,000 was do- nated. If our peopie only realized to a slight degree the fearful sufferings of the sick and wounded and the | need for trained aid and hospital sup- plies, T am sure they would give promptly and liberally.” e A Menu for Tomorrow Breakfast. Fruit Broiled Tripe Graham Gems Coffee Lunch Chicken Salad White Cake Iced Cocoa Dinner Puree of Cream. Halibut, Cream Sauce. Steamed Squash Olives Cauliflower Watercress French Dressing Frozen Souffle Coffee Chicken Salad— Mix together one cupful cold cooked chicken cut in pieces, one cupful cucumber cut in cubes, one cupful diced celery. Mar- inate with French dressing. Chill, drain, mix with three-quarters cup- ful mayonnaise. Arrange in salad bowl; garnish with pimolas and hard cooked e¢ggs, mayonnaise, curled celery. Frozen Souffle—Take three table- spoonfuls sugar and six yolks of eggs, whip over hot water till solid froth, remove and cool, mix in gently one lady fingers cut in small pieces and dipped in sherry wine. Turn into wet mold, cover tightly, bind around two hours. PATHE’S WEEKLY KEENEY’S TONIGHT Pathe’'s Weekly will be the big pic- ture at Keeney's theater this evening and it will in all probability draw a big audience as it always does. The picture this week will include many war scenes so that all who are in- i terested in that great struggle will have an opportunity to see the battle- fields, the commanders of the vari- ous armies and many of those inci- | dents which have been attracting the | attention of the entire world. These . pictures are an entertainment in themselves and at this time they have | a particularly educating influence. : the vaudeville bill will be given as usual and the public will be given another opportunity to see the flying acrobats, who are a show in them- | selves, the Levy family in their great musical act and the other turns which make up one“of the best bills ever seen in New Britain. The Levys have one of those re- fined acts that even children like to see because it is so simple in its en- tirety and so pleasing that it seems like a family gathering in a luxurious 1 $600,000 was given in July this year, | for Salem, | pint whipped cream, and one dozen} a buttered cloth, bury in ice and salt 653 EMBROIDERY PATTERN. 8357 Box Plaited Skirt, 24 to 32 waist. This box plaited skirt attached to a deep yoke is one of the very newest emartest. It can finished at the high or the natural waist line and it can be worn with the new basqued that are being so much exploited or if can be worn with a sash or a shorte tunic arra; over the hips or it can be left all:m. The skirt is perfectly the yoke is fitted by meany hips. The it made at the center back, invisibly the yoke. size, the . For thc medium skirt e BT TR . . " - mn. 3 Evid&umgwg-edgef yds or1 is cut the dress is perfectly tasy to wear while it rimple to make. This one tmf in a pretty little design with an inset of lace budm ge. It is ve?v d.Ainty a - ng, yet perfectly simple an: r:ved is slight. plainer, however, by o tnd the embroidery, and To:;nhth.ed:‘—vlll.hn*l e .:d-db“d)ilu"“b s i ttern, No. cut in one il pat 7&%', yds. when the plaits are laid, and will be mailed to any The pattern of the skirt 8357 fn sizes from 24 to fu i wais{ the Fashion Department of this paper, measure. It will be mailed to any addrees receipt of ten cents. by the Fashion Department of this paper, on receipt of ten cents. of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful and one teaspoonful of mixed Py Bake between two crusts. Each is a skilled musician Levy sings with peculiar “The Grafter” is taking well as a sketch and White and White continue their daneing act home. and Mrs. sweetness. The lunch box or basket should fresh and odorless. Always which is regarded as one of the best of its line, some of the patrons of the theater going so far as to say that the Whites dance fully as well as did Tommy Daly who lived and died here and who was popularly supposed to be one of the greatest dancers of his time. The juggling rounds out a fine bill which together with the pic- tures make a pretty nice evening's en- tertainment. “The Perils of Pauline” wili be seen again this evening and again tomorrow. | Household Notes —_— — There is a delicious pie made of green tomatoes. Chop fine one pint of green tomatoes and three large apples. Add three cupfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of flour, one-half cup the receptacle at night and allow it air thoroughly. In case of the . scald out once or twice a wesk, drys ing thoroughly afterward. In damp, hot weather the salt cel- lurs refuse to shake out their salt. To avoid this trouble, empty them every morning, wash them out and stand them upside down in the warm- ing oven, then, when you are ready to use them, they will be 56 warm and | dry that the sait will shake out easily. It the invalid cannot take coffes, (ry making rice coffee, To make this, trown a cupful of rice in the carefully, without burning, and thea grind it fine in a coffes mill. Put it} in an earthen jar and pour a quart cold water over it Let stand an hour, Strain it, heat it, and serve # with hot milk or with cream.