New Britain Herald Newspaper, May 28, 1914, Page 12

FEELING of solemnity, of sub- ! tle melancholy, permeates the festivities of commencement week. One who has had the experience of being merry through a mist of sadness will know what I mean. You are breaking with associations which have become dear to you, and even though. through the school time you have known the heartburnings of defeat you have also known the ex- htlaration 6f hard won victories, and now the school of life awaits you. But this is a fashion article. I had almost forgotten that important item in the rush of poignantly tender, half sad memories which the thought of commencement week brings. However, clothes must be thought of even though we may be in the throes of an excep- tional emotional upheaval, and since we must have clothes we may as well have pretty ones. ‘With this thought in mind I selected the very smartest models I could find for your inspection, and I will begin my description of them by telling you about the most important frock of all, the graduation gown. This is the gown the girl will wear when she receives her diploma. As pictured here it is made of lovely fine white net. At the bottom of the tunic and about ten inches from the bottom to simulate a double tunic are placed shirred double ruffles of the net. About the bottom of the not too scant skirt is a puff of net, a tiny heading at the top of it making a fluffy finish. The bodice is of net, shirred from the neck to the edge of the sleeves, which gives a becoming fullness to the kimono %haped bodice. The folded girdle is of white taffeta. Long white kid gioves are to be worn with this costume, which is simplicity itself, as all co NEW BRITAIN DAILY HERALD, THURSDAY, MAY 23, 1914, Fashions For Class Da at the left of the graduation gown. is built of figured George:ie crape in sweet pea shades of pink and pale lay- | White undressed kid pumps are worn buttons and worked buttonholes. an the | It |loose kimono bodice has a collar and|with the material. vest of fine sheer white organdie. tumes meant for the graduation day |ender, and jts most distinguishing style | with this fetching costume. ceremonies should be. White buttoned kid boots are worn with the frock, which strikes a decided note of change from the everlasting and ubiquitous pumps. But the girl who is to graduate will have other new frocks in her wardrobe. Beautifully chic is the gown illustrated | feature is the exceedingly wide belt | trimmed with a single bex plaiting of | narrow pink taffeta ribbon and is but- | toned down the side with buttons made by covering molds with pink taffeta. | The short tunic has a finish of the | plaited ribbon, as has also the turned back cuft on the elbow sleeve. The The gown on the extreme left is evolved from ivery linen. It is built in Russian blouse fashion, a style which will be increasingly popular as the summer waxes and wanes. The blouse and tunic are cut in one and are con- fined at the waist by a folded belt fas- tened with an oblong buckle covered Sw eet Girl |figured pussy willow taffeta. The deli- |cate green of the plain silk is repro- |duced in the background of the figured taffeta, the figures in a darker shade of The entire blouse Breen giving character to the gown. jand tunic are closed with white pearl|The chic little loose coat Is of the The |figured taffeta, garnitured with the |skirt ts plain and narrow, though the plain silk. A green tagal hat coquet- narrowness is eased by an inverted |tishly trimmed with taffeta ribbon is | plait in the back. | worn with the costume; also a parasol The handsome tailored gown in the |of dark green silk. | center of the illustration is just the| Should class day be exceptionally. thing for the girl to wear who has been 'sunny and the gir! has accepted an in- invited by big brother or “him" to at- |vitation from “him" the gown ct the tend the festivities of class day. As'right of the tailored frock would be shown here it is built of plain and lovely to wear on the campus. This gown is developed of net and shadow lace over pussy willow taffeta of a fain| pink shade. The lingerie hat |built of net and lace on a wire frami |and has a true lovers’ knot tied upon one side, from which long streame fly over the shoulders and nearly td |the bottom of the skirt in front. black taffeta parasol gives the added touch of black to this black and whit costume. Add a stunning big corsag bouquet of sweet peas, and this is costume which will draw the attentios of many admiring eyes, although th preity face beneath the bewitching ha would be sufficlent as a magnet fo susceptible masculine eyes. At the extreme right of the fllustra. tion is pictured ome of the pretties |hats of the season for youthful f and by youthful I do not necessaril mean “sweet two and twent: Man: [women of thirty-five or even olde |have by some bewitching art managed to maintain youthful faces. Possibly | is not art, but kind old Mother Natus who at times enjoys herself by th | pleasures of omission and omits tq visit these faces with the care lin which come to most after the thirtiety | milestone. Howeyer, I must keep & my text and write of fashfons. - Thi hat of mauve straw is trimmed wit |bunches. of grapes which look 80 real that one is tempted to eat them | Bunched at the side is & becoming chot of mauve ribbon. Worn with this hal are a sheer collar of organdie and tailored frock. MAY WILMOTH. Glovemakers Give Milady a New @lash Glove WB have had for some time the fab- ric glove which is washable, and, of course, for years we have worn chamois or doeskin gloves, but to all of these washable gloves the objection ‘was made that they could be used only for morning ‘wear with the trotteur suit, but now glovemakers have sup- plied a wash glove made of glace or dressed kid which can be worn with the afternoon or evemning frock. The kid is prepared by a new process, and there has been such a demand for these gloves that the manufacturers have been taken by surprise. Some of the stores cannot get their orders for the gloves filled. It is said that this is the first glove of American make that has sold extensively in Europe, but the European shopkeepers have been quick in taking up this new wash glove. So far it is a succe It looks like an ordinary kid glove, either tan or white, as the case may be. With each pair of gloves there are specific direc- tions for washing them, and if these directions are carefully followed the gloves wash quite successfully. There are, however, many warm weather advocates of silk gloves. One serious objection to silk gloves, how- ever, is that they wear out quickly. Another is that the long silk gloves make the arm look pinched and thin. Last summer gloves with tucks run- ning around the arms were sold, and these served to give the arm a plumper appearance. Sometimes, too, it is pos- aible to get silk gloves long enough and ®ig enough to wrinkle from the wrist to the elbow, and these are more at- tractive than those that are literally skin tight. The tucked or loose glove is one remedy for its defect of making the arm look thin. Careful washing helps to remedy the other defect—the tend- ency to wear out quickly. To begin with, always hang the gloves, when they are drying, by the finger tips. Pin the tips to a cloth and hang them wrists or arms downward. This position makes the water run away from the finger tips—the parts that always wear. If the water runs into the finger tips it is held there by and it rots the silk. g to remember in wash- it they are white is never to use very warm water. It turns the silk yellow. They should aot be dried in the sunshine, but in the shade, as a further preventive of their thicknes: Another th ing siik gloves The daintiest of boudoir slippers are evolved from four inch wide ribbons, and to colonial shoes are added shirred widths of ridbom wlich, flaring from under the bucklas and covering the fyont of the insteps, raake the feet look FASHION KINKS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT. THAT there is small prospect of any decrease in expenditure for shoes and hostery. Skirts of dancing frocks are increasingly worn with a trans- parent lace or muslin drép, which makes the dressing of the foot evident. That walking skirts of latest cut are short, some seven inches from the ground in front, though they taper to the line of the heel at the back panel. Even the flounced taffeta skirt is worn at ankle length, while the very newest skirt line shows a decided upward tilt at the back. éerviceable and Modish Bathing Suit HE most acceptable material for bathing suits is the new soft mohair and It is used in many of the French bathing suits and proves vastly ‘wool. many alses shertes, prettier than the stiffer stuff and more practical than satin or taffeta. Care {ill Mahe BEAUTIF'UL hands are a possession no woman can afford to despise, and yet how few we see nowadays. Go to an aftérnoon tea and notice the hostess or the young women who as- sist her by pouring the fragrant bey- erage which cheers, but not inebriates. Are their hands soft and white? Per- haps so. More likely, however, the nails are beautifully manicured, while the skin i{s reddened by careless washing or exposure to the cold, or chapped and drawn because the owner of this par- ticular pair of hands will use too hot water. It takes more than mere manicur- ing to keep the hands in .good con- dition. The skin must be treated as well. This may sound a trifle com- plicated, but it is really very easy. Before going to bed at night rub the outside of the hands thoroughly with cold cream. If they are in very bad condition use a little strained honey instead, as this is very soothing to the skin. If it is put on while the hands are still wet, after washing them, it can be dried in as the skin is dried, and the stickiness will not trouble you. The hands of many women look dingy, and it seems almost impossi- ble to get them clean, even with fre- quent scrubbings. If you are troubled with this affliction use a simple prepa- | ration composed of glycerin, one part; rosewater, three parts, and one-half dram of acetic acid. This will very A JEWELED LAGE BOW quickly make the skin look clean again |and will also remove any stains that may be on the hands. A famous southern belle, who in her | |day was the toast of two centuries, ;was famed for the beauty of her hands. An old friend once asked how she kept them so dazzlingly white and was told that the secret lay in an old fashioned remedy—the powder bath. This may sound elaborate, but it is really ex- | tremely simple and does not take five | minutes. Take a little cold cream. A | bit about the size of a ten cent piece | will do. Divide it into two portions | |and put one into the palm of each | | hand. Now rub over the skin with the | | same motion as in washing your hands. | Some women use homemade mutton | tallow for this purpose instead of ex- | pensive cold cream. After the cold cream rub the hands must be washed |in warm water and mild soap. Don't use hot water, as this will certainly | dry the skin and cause it to chap. Dry | thoroughly with a soft towel, rubbing | down both sides of each finger, as well | as the back and the front. Be sure to rub down the hands toward the wrist. Rubbing up the hand makes it red. Put | some toilet powder into a small bowl | and rub the fingers and the backs of | the hands through and through this| {powder as though they were being washed. Wipe off the powder with a |dry towel and remove any that has| | lodged beneath the nalls and you will | find your hands as white as a lily. fashion Riddle W WWHEN s a blouse not a blouse? This 18 the sort of fashion rid- dle for which there is no definite an- swer at the moment. The blouse of the early spring embraces a great va- riety of “waists,” all listed as blouses. Occasionally it is so diaphanous In material, so low in the neck and so short as to sleeves that it could rank as an evenimg corsage. Again it is a plain affair of silk or crepe de chine or heavy linen with se- | vere lines and a lack of ornamentation. | Surely then it is a shirt waist. So once more, it is asked, when is a blouse— Anyhow, it is always strong in fits hold on our fashion affections. Its downfall is prophesied every now and then, but we can't get along without it. A year ago there was a concerted movement to kill it, but the good and useful little blouse died hard—in fact, it died so hard that it never really died at all and sprang into popularity again with the next coat and skirt models shown. As long as we wear tailor mades we must have our comfortable, boneless, easily cleaned and becoming blouses. The tailor made was and is parent to the blouse, and if the former is plain and severe so is the latter, while it is ith No HAnswer the much ornamented and very elab- orate tailor costume in vogue now that | has created the costly and exquisite blouse of the moment. Some very pretty models of elaborate blouses for spring wear have been seen. Chiffon, net and other transpar- ent materials are used, while the lin- ings are of net, lace or a layer of chif- fon of the same or a contrasting shade. | Dainty frills of lace or net are still smart, and the frill which stands up in the back in courtly fashion maintains this position by means of stays of deli- cate wire. The varfous rolling and | flaring collars are seen in everything, from heavy white pique to delicate lawn or mousseline, and on all varie- ties of the blouse. Many of the new models show a re- turn to the overblouse, the jumper or the sleeveless waistcoat, with a sgot- ted net or figured chiffon underblouse. A blouse of lace and chiffon showed a guimpe and upper sleaves of delicate shadow lace over a lining of pale pink chiffon. The collar was of the medicl variety, forming a V at the neck. Be- |low the guimpe were a body of the pink chiffon and & narrow waist band with a panel of the lace in front. The long | undersleeves with ruffles were of the chiffon. | EVERY one wears beads, and some | few wear a tiny jeweled lace bow at the collar. The bow resembles a | butterfly, the lace forming the wings |and the jeweled bar forming the body. The beads are of amber, combined with | crystal, the flat heart shaped pendant made to hang low upon the bodice. Coneider the Delicious Lobster | JOBSTERS are always in the market | but they are at their best froi spring to autumn—from March to No | vember. Then they are sweeter an juicier and altogether more dellcio than they are throughout the wint months. The first step toward cooking lo ster is to parboll it for bhalf an hoi in slightly salted water. It must b alive and tn good condition when it bought, and the smaller, heavier on will be found the best. The opening of‘a lobster is t.die work. The dark, greenish cord o fllament jmust be removed. All th meat must be removed from the shell which is cracked open with a hamme The claws must be cleaned for deco, rating purposes, and the coral can powdered for the same use. Lobster salad, dear to the heart am | palate of almost every lover of goo | things to eat not very dicult t make, but it st be daintily made o the best ingredients. The lobster mi |be firm and fresh and sweet. The let tuce must be crisp and cold. The & | must be of the best quality. To begin with, cut the bolled lobsts |into neat pleces about an inch sq) Put these on a rather shallow dish [over them pour a dressing made | three parts of vinegar to two of olf |oil. seasoned with salt, pepper an | minced parsley. The addition of a Mt |tle onion juice is optional. Turn th pleces of lobster over and over In | dressing and then put it in the refrig erator for weveral hours. When it time to serve the ad pile the lob: |ster in the center of a nest of | white lettuce leaves and cover ¥ witl | mayonnaise dressing. HAIR ORNAMENTS ARE ODD ANK BRILLIANT, {(QDPD _shapes and brilliant colors & i long scarfs of gold or ilver tiss |are wound once or twice around thi head and caught in the most becomin way with beads, rhinestones, pear |etc., and are worn low to the top of th |forehead with hair below. Cap shap |bands are of pearls, rhinestones | imitation aigrets in front. Velvet bandeaux are overlald wit) | tiny bands of rhinestones or iridesc |s¢t. Bandeaux are also formed |spangles. A platinam band in th; [rows, set with jet and rhinestones, h la fAufty group of white feathers on g |left. A band of jet sequins, ek |overlapped, 18 clasped .on the left wi |an outspread jet butterfly of wire o ered with spangles, with three |feathers above, A close turban cap |net. embroidered in Chinese design l'or" pulled down, shows only a of halr. - Pink satin apple form a bunch on the left of the o