Evening Star Newspaper, December 23, 1934, Page 33

RUINS OF EMPIRE VISIBLE IN PERU Gold and Silver Altars Give Hint of Wealth in Reign of Incas. BY ELSIE BROWN, Managing Editor. Pan-American Union. This is the fourteenth of a series of articles on travel in Pan Amer- ican countries. Peru is a country for the ua\elen who desires something more than I\ new stage setting for his hotel. “He | who would bring home the wealth | of the Indies must carry the wealth of the Indies with. him” is one way of referring to what the French call “intellectual baggage.” In this case the figure is peculiarly appro- priate. | Who but the Spaniards who saw Cuzco in its glory four centuries ago could really appraise the wealth of the Indies? Sent to despoil the great capital of the Incas for the ransom of Atahualpa, Pizarro's emissaries| found the temple of the sun “lit- l erally a mine of gold.” At the eastern end was the hlgh aliar, blazing with representations of | the sun, moon and some of the con- | stellations. Plates of gold adorned | roof and walls. To right and left| sat thc mummies of the preceding Incas and their wives, clad in rich attire and seated in chairs of gold. Gold Torn Away. The Spaniards tore out the gold. | Most of it was leud down except | i The soldier to whom | an Anugc of the sun fell in the divi-| sion of the spoils gambled it away before dawn This the visitor to Cuzco today will recall as he looks at the smooth curving wall of stones laid without ar, but so closely that a knife blade cannot be thrust between them, | above which rises the church of Santo Domingo. This is one of the all too few traces left of Coricancha, the place of gold. About a mile and a half outside the ity rise the massive triple fortress | of Sacsahuaman, site of the old | of Upper Cuzco. Here 1mporunl| archeological excavations have been | going on for the past year. Who knows but a visitor standing by may see come to light some example of In- can art, like the graceful silver dish inlaid with sea she!l and malachite found a few months ago! In the Cuzco of todav evidences of the wealth of the country are found in the beautiful colonial cathedral. | Glimering softly in the light of the candles stands the lofty high altar sheathed in silver from top to bottom, while the exquisitely carved side altars and their grilles reflect a richer glow from the gold leaf which covers them, The choir stalls can vie in their mas- terly sculpture with any in Spsln. itself, and golden altars such as those | ©f Cuzco even Spain does not boast, Over the Andes. Now travel down from the ancient to the present capital of Peru, Al- though Lima does not have behind it 500 years or more of pre-Spanish his- | tory, still it is old enough to have had & university open for more than 50 | years when Jamestown was founded. If you fly, as may be arranged, the trip will take three hours, up over the Andes to 20,000 feet or more and then down to sea level at Lima. But the train trip along the high plateau to Juliaca, where the night is spent, is packed with interest. From Cuzco the train ascends from approximately 8,500 to 16,000 feet, so that you are riding along the Andean plateau at about the height of the Matterhorn. Snow peaks are frequently visible, but do not seem enormously high be- cause of the railways’ altitude. Also 10 be seen are remnants of Incan ag- ricultural terracing on the mountain sides and flocks of sheep, llamas and alpacas. What gives the trip its color, literaily as well as figuratively, are the Indians who come to every sta- tion, dressed in brightly colored hand- woven shawls and ponchos and wear- ing most picturesque headgear, vary- ing from village to village. And so on down to Arequipa, see- ing from time to time as you descend through the mountains the light | brown vicuna, a relative of the llama. Its soft fleece was once re- served for making apparel for the | Inca, but now you may buy your- self a sweater made of this fine, | warm wool A Wealth of Interests. At Arequipa is the famous Quinta Bates, in European parlance a pension, tut on the West Coast an institution of many years' standing created by an American woman, who has given it a hospitable individuality. You can have Indian musicians come to sere- nade you on their strange instru- | ments; you can buy the lovely rugs made in the city; you can visit the new cathedral, the colonial churches, | or the mineral springs in the nearby | country, or you can simply sit in the luxuriant garden and feast your | eyes on the great cone of Misti and | the other snowy peaks which dom- | inate the city. i Leaving Arequipa via rail for Mol- lendo and proceeding by sea lor Callao, it is three days in all Lima, or by Pan American Grncew RESORTS. of Past Glories One of the most enlightened civilizations of the Western World before the coming of the white man existed in Peru, Here are shown some of the ruins of the great Incan Empire near Cuzco. plane you may arrive in a little less than five hours. The site of Lima, like that of Washington, was chosen for govern- mental reasons. Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of the far-flung empire of the Incas, wished a central seat of government near the sea. He laid out the city in regular squares about a central plaza, 400 years ago next January 18. There in the cathedral in a special chapel. He seems more real, however, on the other side of the automobile-filled square, built, and look at the venerable gnarled fig tree whicl “e is said to have planted. In this palace have lived all the viceroys and presidents of Peru. Arcaded Shops. Around the other two sides of the square are the arcaded shops characteristic of Spanish America. Leaving the plaza and walking along one of the bustling streets under the overhanging balconies so typical of the city, you will come to the Torre Tagle Palace which, built late in the | © colonial period, seems to incarnate the elegance and luxury of the age. Its exquisitely carved balconies, the great door too heavy for hinges, the patio with its fountain, the beautiful rooms hung in red damask and adorned with handsome dark carved furniture, the blue and yellow Span- ish tiles along the corridors, seem to recreate the atmosphere of bygone | centuries when the beam at the en- trance was used to weigh ingots of gold and silver. The Peruvians, with a true national pride, purchased this mansion for the ministry of foreign affairs. It is as Peruvian as Mount Vernon is American. In the heart of Lima the hand- some, modern Hotel Bolivar faces the Plaza San Martin, thus linking the names of the two great leaders of South American independence, both of whom played a great role in Peru. The National Museum of Archeol- ogy is enough n itself to draw visitors to Lima. The gift of a wealthy Peruvian, it houses a large collec- tion of ceramics, textiles and other objects, often intrinsically beautiful, representing the various indigenous Peruvian cultures, of which the Incan, although the best known, was only one. Driving out to the country club, which you may use as your hotel if you like, you will pass through part of modern Lima with broad avenues | and detached houses set in gardens, RESORTS. ATLANTIC_CIT on one| side of the plaza rest his bones, | entombed in & glass coffin and placed | when | you penetrate to the second vast patio | | of the government palace, which he overflowing with bougainvillea and other vines and flowers, You cannot judge the climate of Lima by looking at the map: near as it is to the Equator, the heat which would be expected, according to its latitude, is greatly modified by the cold Humboldt current which sweeps up from the south. The warmest and most sunshiny months are December, January and February, when the nearby beaches of La Punta, Ancon, Chorrillos, Barranco and Miraflores are much patronized. There are pleasant automobile ex- cursions to be made from Lima to Chosica and Matucana in the moun- tains and to the ruins of Pachacamac: and enticing excursions may be taken to the curio and silver shops. Hand- woven rugs of various kinds and colonial silver and modern reproduc- tions will tempt the visitor. The government forbids the export of pre- Columbian antiquities and, except with special permission, of rugs made of vicuna skins. Fourteen days by steamer from New York to Callao, the port six miles from Lima, or four days by plane from Miami, and on January 18 you may join in the 400th birthday festivities ! “the City of the Kings.” But at any time Lima extends a hearty welcome. S EUROPA EXHIBIT TO SHOW BEAUTIES OF GERMANY Liner to Be Open to Visitors in New York December 26, 27 and 28. NEW YORK, December 22.—An exhibition featuring various attrac- tions of interest to the traveler in Germany will be held aboard the | liner Europa at Pier 56, foot of West Forty-sixth street, Manhattan, De- cember 26, 27 and 28, between noon and 7 pm. Admission cards may be obtained without charge at the company's offices, 57 Broadway, or from local steamship and tourist offices. Visitors not holding cards will be required to pay a small entrance fee, which will go to charity. The exhibition includes models of the castles of Neuschwanstein and Heidelberg, photographs of German architecture, ancient and modern, and motion pictures of scenic beau- ties, picturesque costumes and folk dances peculiar to German provinces. RESORTS. ATLANTIC CITY, An Ideal Welcome to the New Year! ‘30 Per Person (two in a room) covers all expenses from Saturday until Tuesday At One of the World's Finest Resort Hotels %é AMBASSADOR ® All -inclusive ATLANTIC CITY CALIFORNIA LURES TOURIST CROWD Racing, Film Stars and Orange Show Among Attractions. By the Associated Press. LOS ANGELES, December 22.— Southern California expects a revival of its fourth largest industry—the tourist—and practically everything short of polishing up the mountains and dusting off the desert has been planned for in the effort to cater to his amusements this Winter. An average season brings 900,000 visitors, with an aggregate purse of something like 8100000 000. Last sea- son the tourist traffic dropped to a new low for the post-war years. Busi- ness leaders and travel agencies re- port unmistakable signs of a sharp upturn this Winter. The most spectacular single in- novation this year, with the return of horse racing to the State, is the “Dream Come True" race, to be held February 27 at the new track near Los Angeles. Cavalcade Entered. Lured by the $100,000 prize money, Cavalcade, Equipoise, Mate and Twenty Grand, four of the great horses of modern racing, are scheduled to face the same starting gun. It is believed that horse racing as a whole is the most powerful magnate that could have been introduced as & tourist lure, and hotels are already filling up with followers of the sport. i Another innovation this Winter will be the market weeks, designed to emphasize the importance of Holly- wood as a creator of fashions. The market weeks represent the first serious effort to hook up the motion picture business with the gen- eral tourist trade by enlisting the services of a large number of stars in putting on the exhibits. Chance to See Stars. ‘This will give the average tourist a chance to get a good look at his| favorite screen luminary, something | not easy to manage ordinarily. The attractions of other years are expected to draw their quota. About 2,000,000 people annually visit the 10- day orange show in San Bernardino. The foot ball game in the Rose Bowl, where the Stanford and Alabama teams will meet on New Year day, | will present the usual colorful climax to the Tournament of Roses Festival Polo and golf tournaments figure prominently in the list of attractions, is relied on to do its share. In addi- tion there will be a host of small fem and exhibitions. | Southern California 1s looking lor— ward to an estimated 26 per cent in- crease in the tourlst traffic. . PORT OF CALL CHANGED | NEW YORK, December 22.—Begin- ning with the departure of the Ile de France from Havre January 30 the French Line will make Southampton its port of call in England on all westbound crossings, the line has an- nounced Plymouth, which has served as the British port for the past dozen years, both eastbound and westbound, Mll | be retained as the British port for all Iecstbound trips of all the line's ships. RESORTS. ATLANTIC CITY, N. J. and the automobile show, one of the | most comprehensive in the country, | / THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON! D. C.! DECEMBER 2, 1934—PART TWO. I The Traveler’s Notebook State Department Issues Bible to Guide Americans in Through Travel Red Tape—Advises Accurate Knowledge. BY JACQUES FUTRELLE, JE. obtained by all persons who desire the data as an aid in mapping their trips. It be mailed upon telephone request to the Passport Division, or one may call in person at room 151, State Depart- ment Building. The information is corrected to September 15, 1934, and distribution will begin tomorrow. It is printed only in English. * * ¥ ¥ HILE the veteran globe - trotter may consider much of the infor- mation in the A. B. A. class, he is called upon to remember that unset- tled conditions throughout the world can bring new regulations suddenly and without notice. This justifies the State Department warning that trips into various hinterlands, and éeven countries on well beaten tourist paths, be undertaken only after obtaining in- formation on latest developments. ‘Travel agencies and steamship com- panies, of course, keep informed of re- | strictions, and serve their patrons as a convenient information bureau. But complicated questions, the pamphlet cautions, had best be taken up with | passport officials or with consuls of | the natlons to be visited, * ¥ % = | PROMINENT among the injunctions is the one which concerns travel in France. Dificulties incident to extensions of visits can be avolded if the traveler states on his visa appli- cation the length of time he intends | to stay. | Students and those seeking work abroad are given a word of advice. The former zre told to secure all | necessary credentials and proper | authentification so they will not find | & forgotten piece of red tape barring { them from their studies. Employment | in most foreign countries is in a sorry way, as perhaps everybody has sus- pected; but remember, should the job | seeker find himself down to his last dime or less, the United States is not | prepared to pay his way back home. This information is printed on the front cover in red ink. * ¥ % % ASSPORTS should be carried everywhere. This is not necessary,, however, in Canada or Mexico, but a ‘blnh certificate, a baptism record or a naturalization paper may come in | handy anywhere, l ‘The pamphiet goes on to enumerate a number of conditions which may confront the naturalized American. It is pointed out that some countries | refuse to give up claim to a person born within their boundaries, and even contest the citizenship of one | | who is born in Amgica of foreign | parents. In some countries, and under cer- tain conditions, naturalized Americans ‘;rnn be pressed into military service by the land of their forebears. RESORTS. ATLANTIC CITY, N. J. A ~ I N certain other presents not be opened till Christmas. suspense of Christmas Eve ‘We'sg never so happy in our role of host as when our Christ- mas tree is trimmed and plans are brewing for our annual New Year's Eve Party. Right now we’re particularly jubi- lant, what with plum pudding on our minds, plus the busi- ness of stuifing stockings and turkeys, hanging greens, hum- ming carols, shopping for favers and prizes, as well as for Here at Chalfonte-Haddon Hall it will be an old-fashioned holiday all through, from the the last hon-blow that salutes the New Year. A glorious feast. with your own family table, your own tender turkey. Con- certs, dances, and special en- tertainments all week. Outside, the Boardwalk. gay as Santa’s workshop. Also horseback rid- ing,ice hockey, and goli courses fo try out those new clubs. Come for Christmas and stay till the New Year is born midst a fanfare of fun at Chalfonte- Haddon Hall. We'll &ll your holiday as full of joy as a good child’s stocking. Rates as low as $7 up at Chalfonte. and $8 up at Haddon Hall, single. American Plan. European Plan also, Special weekly rates. to “In connection with military service l“ A pu;c‘:ph on visas, the pam- phlet s 3 “No visas are required of non-immi. sig, Denmark, Dominican Republic Haiti, Honduras, Iceland, Italy, Liecht- enstein, Mexico (but an identification card, issued by a Mexican consul, must be obtained), Netherlands, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama (Americans entering Panama as transients, maximum limit of sojourn being six months, need no visas; those expecting to remain more than six months should consult the required of tourists, but a visa required of other travelers), Siam, St. Pierre-Miquelon, Sweden, Switserland or Uruguay (Americans traveling second and third class to Uruguay must hold passports; they m#st also obtain travel certifi- cates from & consul of Uruguay, but no visa is required).” * x ok ® ’I’BAT countries are changing regu- lations is illustrated by the recent money decrees of the Council of Min- isters of Italy. The royal Italian Em- bassy in New York City has issued a statement pointing out that the edicts only called for a declaration to the Bank of Italy by Italian citizens and resident industrial and financial in- stitutions of all foreign currency and foreign bonds. Commercial Attache Romolo Angel- one of the Italian Embassy in New York issued a statement which said: “I am authorized to State that no difficulty exists or will be encountered by American tourists and residents in Italy in changing their dollars into lire. The same applies to travelers’ checks, letters of credit and other paper exchange issued and used by the various recognized travel agencies and banks. “Americans everywhere in Italy are exchanging their money today at cur- rent exchange rates as in the past, and there has been no necessity for any deviation from this normal pro- cedure at any time since the passing of the new decrees as far as the Italian government or the Bank of Italy is concerned. “American dollars are ‘as good as gold’ in the matter of their purchasing power in Italy. They are accepted at face value by all banks, business houses and foreign exchange offices and travel agencies.” The American Express Co. also has issued a statement that the firm's travelers’ checks issued to turists were being cashed as usual. STEAMSHIPS. Balinese Beauties Barter Batik for Dainty Lingerie Cruise Passengers Find Old Clothes Handy for Trading. MONTREAL, December 32.—“Take plenty of old clothes with you, espe- cially gay lingerie,” is the latest sar- torial advice travel agents are giving to their feminine cruise passengers. The old clothes are suggested as graceful but not overdressed native women are developing an Occidental fondness for fripperies, visitors re- C, | port. Beautiful pleces of batik, hand- worked silver and carved wooden devil-masks are among items obtained by cruise members by bartering. In a recent book Maurice Irwin, a Montreal journalist, writes: “Fancy, bright-colored lingerie is eagerly sought by the Balinese girls, ideal for bartering in Bali, where the | FLORIDA AGAIN BASKS IN BALMY WEATHER Foliage Damaged by Cold Snap in Orlando to Be Replanted to Preserve Beauty. ORLANDO, Fla, December 22.— Winter came to Orlando and other Florida resorts for several days last week, but Spring was not far be- hind. The cold wave has been succeeded by sunshine and balmy temperatures normally experienced in Central Florida in Midwinter. The cold served only to remind Winter visitors from the North of what they were missing all season. Orlando will replant all flowers and shrubbery damaged by the cold, 50 as to maintain its usual Midwinter scenic beauty. Outs! holiday events include Christmas sorority dances at Orlando Country Club, New Year ball at the Rosalind Club, a New Year eve dance at Dubsdread Country Club and & tea dance at the San Juan on New Year day given by American As- soclation of University Women. STEAMSHIPS. SHINE” Cruises the waficmmu or Bermuds To Book local agent or Cynard White thru ur 41 W mw. Wash., even if its exact purpose is not always immediately understood.” INFOIMA’I’ION IIREE s 'x‘:: Us. | “MIID‘ service, call, write, D LOW ROUND-TRIP IA'I'ES ot B“s 'ln( Jo T a'porter on every bus Rone Thru express buses—no local CRUISES O Mexico and Spanish America O Arcund the World DO Around South Amesica O Mediterranean D South Seas and Pucific O India and the Mediterrancan or call for complete information, literature, rates, sailings and sog- gested itineraries. Reservations made in advance. Steamahip tickets at regular tariff rates. AMERICAN EXPRESS Travel Service N.W. wil a Hotel Blds. Washinston, Phone National 1016-11“ Amevican Express Travders Chagunes Aaatss Prosect Yeus Funds T ) STEAMSHIPS. 114 F St MEDITERRANEAD HOLY LAND Your choice of EGYPT brilliant itineraries on famous Italian “sun-ships"'! Short or longcruises planned for fastidis ous travelers. Enjoy Italian Line cuisineandcourtesy. JAN. 26 . . ROMA . . The Mediterra- nean us the Adriatic on “Italy’s palace- ship™! 40 Days, 16 Calls. $485 up First Clul.&fliup'l’am 13 . . Conte di SAVOIA . . (only gyro-stabilized liner.) 27 .. REX .. (Fastest liner aflcat) IDENTICAL CRUISES on Italy's pre- ew, to the WEST INDIES | 825 liners! The whole Mediterranean in than a month! 29 Days, 12 Calls. $560up First Class, $330 up Special Class, up Tourist. Ill. 17 « « SATURNIA .. Famous offering a six weeks itiner- nz“oz Dayl. 19 Calls. $485 up First $275 up Tourist. For literature and reservations apply local agent or 1 State Street, New York City ITALIAN LINE & HOLIDAY CRUISES o BERMUDA From New York Dec. 26, 28, 31 8days %60, Sdays %67 6Gdays374up 10days$102.» lndn‘l-. PRIVATE BATH aboard and accommodatiens. Joad- "'fim CROUTSES 1o BERMUDA, twice !.-"n- “-'u as ahove e eiete et ” T o nled TRIANGLE CRUISES TO BERMUDA -NASSAU 7 DAYS including PRIVATE l\11‘ Jan.8...and... o) A b s Tfl—dl&u days also avail- One wayfaresto! on request. instruction by drthur Mo ol I urray T Gotlon Koy = WEST INDIES CARIBBEAN Your key to new shipboard [oys, fo en- ing ports on the Great White Fleet. Trim spotless liners. Mechanically ventilated. All eutside rooms. Outdoor swimming pools, dance orchestras, cele- brated service and cuisine. Thirty-three years of Caribbean cruising have made these gleaming ships able guides. 17Days*195 "HleThnea 18 Days 185 e 13 Days ‘175 “*E2 0NN 10Days*130 “*=255 0 1o Sailings from New York Thursdays and Saturdays No passports required. Superior accommodations only slightly higher. any Autberized Travel Fruit Fiere ot ner miver, City. Aveiy Agent ver, Plan a world tour of your own .. stay as long as you like. Go east or west. Spend as much or as little as you wish. Go in 90 days...or loaf along and take two full years ... one inclusive ticket covers the whole trip. Choose from a wide variety of routes. You can book with particu- lar ease by Canadian Pacific in com- bination with Peninsular & Orieatal and Beitish India Steam Navigation Companies, and other lines. This service goes around the world and has many optional trips. Fares are surprisingly low. 179 Cana- dian Pacific agencies throughout the world will be glad to help you at any time. Ask for programmes of personally-conducted tours. . .write for 72-page booklet, “Round-the- ‘World Tours.” ORIENT Direct or via Honolulu. Just 10 days to Yokohama by Direct Express Route. .. on the spacious Empress of Asia or her sister-ship, the Empress of Russia. Or go via Honolulu in 3 days more ...on the Empress of Japan (fast- est ship on the Pacific) or the Em- press of Camada. California sail- ings connect with “Empresses” at Hooolulu. Sail from Vancouver or Victoria. Orient fares include pas- sage to and from Seattle. Reduced round-trip rates (First and Tourist Class) to Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hong Kong, CATHOLIC and PROTESTANT RELIGIOUS SERVICES on all aailings. “‘Pleasure-planned” voyaging on the Monarch of Bermada or Queen of Bermuda with their (amous shipboard facil cuisine and brilliant social atmosphere ! ‘or _complete information and litergture apply uda Line, 3¢ Whitehalt Street (w Manila. Also, low-cost Third Class on all “Empresses.” Ask about per- sonally-conducted all-expense tours. SOUTH SEAS Honelulu . FIji . New Zea- lond . Australia. Visit Aus- tralia’s brilliant festival ..the Victoria and Melbourne Centenary. Go on the Aorangi ot Niagara of the Canadian Austral- asian Line . . . ships built for com- fort in the tropics. Ball-louvre ventiladon . . . outdoor swimming pools, First, Cabin, Third Class. From Vancouver and Victoria. Con- pect at Honolulu from California ports. Ash about veduced round- trip faves. Folders . Maps . Information on any Canadian Pacific service, from YOUR OWN TRAVEL AGENT or C. E. Phelps, 14th and New York Ave. N.W.,, Wash, D. C. National 0758, Arriving Saturday for dinner—stay until after luncheon Tuesday— beautiful double room, twin beds and bath — delicious meals with Ambassador service —dancing in the Grill Saturday and Sunday with RogerKay and hisBroadcasting Orchestra—swimming in warm sea water pool—championship hockey in Auditorium—sun decks—garage for your car—the Boardwalk and all of Atlantic City in gay holiday mood. Celebration—New Year's Eve—in Renaissance Room. Rate provides: © ROOM ® MEALS © GARAGE © HOCKEY GAMIE © DANCING ® use OF SWIMMING POOL ® GALA NIW YEAR'S PARTY © EVENING CONCERT LEEDS COMPANY ATLANTIC CITY AND LIPPINCOTT CHALFONTE-HADDO local _agent or Furaess Broadway begins), New York City. Now! WINTER SERVICE FROM BALTIMORE! Two sailings weekly from Pier 3 Pratt St., foot Gay St., Balulnore «..to FLORIDA. Large, luxurious sister-ships: BERKSHIRE, CHATHAM, DORCHESTER, FAIRFAX in service. avery Fri- MIAMI x50 Fares INCLUDE meals and berth. L) every Tues. $ Jacksonville = ég For retun In 18 days. Loager-limit fares o request. HOLLYWOOD BEACH H OT[I- AND Wl' (llll Amazingly complete Inllm- on the “Super-American Plan", Privat rdwalk, beach, golf eours ocean fighin| Writs booklet “If Vou Were King of Florida.” 3 i WEEK-END SPECIAL Trom Dinneron Saturday P it N A ROOM ‘18"’21..‘24’ G Resermd. s e : eslle. " Christmes Eve Donce. . Garage Aecwm::u w o andfrom ALSO ATTRACTIVE EUROPEAN RATES WILLIAM HAMILTON, General Manager Washington Office—Phone National 5387 % 1/& RITZ-CARLTON Boardwalk ATLANTIC CITY TR LI _____ NEW YORK HOTELS. 3 4 ann PENN POST HOTEL in the heart of New York City S. W. Cor. 8th Ave. & 31st St. CLEAN, MODERN ROOMS Single, $1.50 up Double, $2.50 up ] i T pu&-,dhn-pniu-nduu Rooms with bath and meals from $6.00 a day Open Jon.1to Mayl. Write to HARRINGTON MILLS, owner, Daytons