Evening Star Newspaper, August 5, 1923, Page 71

BY ANNE HE RITTENHOUSE. | coat dress is a sort of para- | among women's clothes. | Itself not coat, mor suit, nor frock. it borrows from the| designing of all three. Any fashion development that appeal to you in the making of any of these three types of garment may be.made use of in the molding of a cout dress. The characteristic of the coat dress that s by itself is that 1t shall b v like a dress in fit and finish to be worn directly over a slip or petticoat, while it must be enough like a coat in general ap- | pearance to make it eminently suita- ble to wear in the street without any other wrap. Even the conservative woman who has grown up with the notion that it is not quite good form to appear in city streets without some sort of wrap has no hesitancy to wear e coat frock had its origin in France and has lost popularity To the ma of never there. prestixe or distinct woman thick beneath the jacket mportant te able between her skin sleeve. advantages. The American to her suit through| have something wash- and a clot This is a matter seemingly of ne moment to a French woman. She is not cursed—or blessed—with a skin | ®o sensitive that at direct contact with wool or other terial that must be worn repeatedly without cleaning. But the American to the suit ¢ Freneh women ten that it shudders so she clings in those vears when have forgot- thing exists. The American really prefers a skirt, shirt and jacket of some sort for golf and tennis to a cloth frock for the same reason. But for the costume she is not going to wear every day and all day she consents to wear the coat frock because of its excellent line and the ease with which it can be adjusted that have georgette neath the coat frock We have thought of the coat frock as espe for spring and autumn davs. This vear we are finding that it has excellent & warm-weather adjunct of the ward- robe, and when made of linen or other washable ble as any ¢ Heavy linen is an excellent medium for the warm-weather one of the smartest models of the sort worn t ing on the such a woman it is a simple enough matter to a very thin washable lining of sleeves and bodice of the sirable material comforta her sort of frock summer shows a side left, scant- low waist line. There is single rever, which, wi*th the long, slightly flaring sleeves, is finished with lace and lingerie. Two large pearl buttons, he belt and the other just be- effect the one at t neath the ing. single rever, clos- IPE de thought might fabric for the coat frock, has, in fact, been used in several charming frocks of this description. Sometimes plaitings are used with the crepe de chine, and the long, f: ciose sleeves that seem to be an essential of the coat frock at present found here. A charming mod in rust crepe de chine with georgette form inland, BY FRANK CARPENTER. HELSINGFORS, IT down with me in the chamber the congress of Finland, and take u look at the liveliest as- bly of new Baltic We are in far northern Hu- in the latitude of Alaska, in the of Helsingfors. and within rifle the ha The republic have a national parl and for the time congres s chine, which seem Ut too light a| are is England the re- public rope. city shot too ment house is meeting in scraper, sandwiched in between stores. The front of the building is all win- dows, being composed of a tower that extends bevond the shops which ad- join it. It looks like no other capitol in Europe. There one branch of con- gress, a house of representatives, and the one chamber consists of 200 mem- bers. The hall looks for all the world like a church. It is lighted by incan- descent clectric lights in frosted globes set into the ceiling. The mem- bers sit at little school desks and seem very crowded. The furniture s of oak, trimmed with gold. The earpet is red. The chamber has a wide gallery running about it, well up near the roof. The speaker sits at the back. under a ferocious ‘bronze lion, below which stands a statue of justice. There are two elorks on either side of the speaker, and beyond them on the left ure the seats of the cabinet ministers. who have the advantage of our cab- fnet at Washington in being able to take part in all legislative discus- sions. To the right is the press gal- Jery. from which go out daily reports of the chamber. As I look down from the gallery 1 have a good representation under my eye of .the new Finland. The 200 \members represent all parts of the country, and they are the best type of the new Finnish republic. They look not unlike our congress- men except that there is a goodly Eprinkling of women among them. According to the new constitution. every Finnish citizen, man or wom- an, has the right to vote after he or she is twenty-four years of age. Every one of them is eligible to the house of representatives, and the starms-are for three years instead of two as with us The women are 3 live working part @f the assembly. Almost one-tenth @f the whole body is composed of them. They have nineteen of the 200 eeats, and they serve on all the committees, taking a live part in making the laws and fixing the taxes. They are not afraid to speak and they speak well. Looking down from the gallery, these female states- men are not different in appearance from our good ordinary American women. They dress well, and there are but few short-skirted and short- haived omes among them. The male membars have fewer bald ’ud.luu.n thase aof. our. Houss -of | of bor. is new to seven-story only American woman it has| distinct disadvantases and some | because of the blouse | To her it is very | She has even discovered | or China silk adjusted be-| possibilities as | t dress and | clos- | iered skirt and | ing a frill on the right side of the bodice portion and the left side of the skirt, Satin and moire, fabrics that have been more smart than popular this summer, are weil adapted to the coat trock for wear on moderate days in summer. The satin coat frock espe- | it is easier to put on. r o RS FOR WARM DAYS THE LI CUF | of | gloves, waistcoats—that go to give the THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, 'AUGUST 5, 1923—PART b. Coat Frocks Are Chosen for Use on Warm Days as Well as Cold cially makes an excellent frock to wear when motoring, owing to its dust-shed- ding propensities. The attached scarf collar further recommends to the mo- torist the coat frock of navy blue gatin shown in one of the sketches, which is embroidered rather lavishly in pastel i colorings. Sometimes the coat frock is an invit- ing substitute for the suit. .The coat frock has many of the good points of the suit and the distinct advantage that ‘The smartly tailored suit has been heralded for autumn, and we are assured that there will be a revival of interest in all sorts suit aocessories — scarfs, jabots, COAT DRESS IS AN ADMIRABLE CHOICE. THIS ONE 1S MADE WITH LINGERIE COLLAR AND THE TWO-BUTTON FASTENING IS DISTINCTIVE. | hair appeared by i Now a French milliner has hit upon severe svit distinction and feminine charm. The coat frock really is as £00d a medium for these accessories as the suit, and it may be a more con- venient one. Something of the directoire effect is achieved in the coat frock of navy blue twill shown in the sketch, with long revers fastened at the side with three buttons. There is a white or- gandie and lace vest with a high col- lar that further carries out the direc- toire note. The close-fitting cloche and the long walking stick complete the picture. Looking forward, velvets loom large, and velvets will undoubtedly be the medium for intricate and colorful prints this autumn and winter that georgettes and other crepes have been this sum- mer. Alpaca, which has taken strong hold in Paris, is another material that lends itself well to the possibilities of the coat frock. Quite the most extraordinary bit of gossip about the coat frock is the fact that there are dinner frocks worn by very ‘smart women here and in Paris that are to all intents and purposes coat frocks. At least, they are mod- eled on coat lines and, save for the lower bodice and the brilliance of the materials used, are similar to the coat frock with which we are familiar. * ¥ % ¥ OT since Indian days, when brave chiefs wore the scalps of their slain enemies as part of the decora- tion of their gala attire, has human way of ornament the weird idea of using human hair in imitation of monkey fur, run down the center of the quill of an ostrich feather. Apparently it is cheaper and less difficult to get the human than the simian variety Dregs of wine was a color known to our grandmothers, if not to our mothers, and it seemed a perfectly innocent color name in those ante- Volstead days. And now the French milliners are using a range of lovely red tones that go by this name. Flowers made of black lace have been one of the millinery triumphs of the season, and Reboux is credited with this invention. The petals and leaves of roses, lilies and other flow- ers are skillfully wrought with fine black lace, and are used in trimming hats of the floppy, garden-party variety. Here and there colored sist even among the best-dressed women, but usually they are worn only with all white or all black, and this is also the rule in fashionable France. It is a new extravagance to have underclothes to match one's frocks. Sometimes this considerable inconvenience, and makes it necessary shoes per- causes to have materials especially dved to match the unusual shade of a gown. A new and much-talked-about hat from Jenny takes its inspiration from the soldier's helmet. It is brimless, of course, and well over the eyebrows. A Dbig crest made of a roll of the ma- terial with which the helmet is cov- ered extends from ear to ear by way of trimming Jenny is ulso responsible for a very recent attempt to display a new frock with an old-fashioned, snugly corset- ed waistline. That is, the waistline of the frock is so small that to wear it one would apparently have to go back to a kind of corset that held the waist in close confines. This frock en seen attracts more in nce laces and georgettes or other | surprise than admiration—surprise that a generation of men and women could ever have regarded such a sil- houette with complacency. Almond green, they say, is on the wane, but if Chinese colors have the vogue that has been predicted as a result of the Bal de la Grande Prix, then jade green will come back into prominence. In the meantime a moss green and a bottle green are gaining favor, and these are used in light fabrics as well as in the heavier ma- terials. * ¥ % ¥ HE coolest of all the midsummer has sounded the Chinese note so emphatically in women's clothes, showed a pageant representing the Chinese mariners at the court of Louis XIV in France. This gave opportu- nity to show all sorts of Chinese cos- tumery brought up in sharp contrast to the equally resplendent costume of the Rococco period in France, with its white-powdered wigs, its enormous headdresses, patches, lace and pan- niers. The Chinese costumes are not expected to have so much influence as the coloring of the Chinese clothes — BLUE TWILL FROCK WORN WITH A HIGHNECKED VEST OF WHITE ORGA! FINELY PLAITED LONG LINES OF THE FRO NDY AND LACI&l l’l‘l-lE LONG REVERS AND THE FRILL EMPHASIZE THE SLENDER RUST.COLORED CREPE DE CHINE IS THE FABRIC OF THIS FROCK. IT IS MADE WITH PLAITED RUFFLE OF WHITE GEORGETTE, WHICH FALLS FROM ONE SIDE OF THE NECK. '_\ BRITISH roval land a half above lable to see 1150 1 {it could find no place { Tme 7 and Chinese decorations. too, Chinese decorative motifs will be brought to the foreground. * ¥ ¥ x Among colors that have and kept their mark this summer might be mentioned various yellows—Susan and buttercups — greens, bottle green and Egyptian—cornflower blues and a charming rei known as goose- berry. Plaits persist, the most recent version being unpressed plaits that would make you start and stare if you were not reassured that the lack of pressing was intentional and not an oversight. The smartly-tailored suit is predicted for the autumn, and women in this country do not have to be urged long to adopt this mode. Twills of various ma- terials will be chosen first, but already the tailors are getting good re with certain thinner pile fabrics as a medium for these new suits Ribbon has been used ways within the last few vears more way is not surprizing. There was a time when ribbon appeared mainiy in the guise of bows. But now it is used as the fabric hats, blouses, frocks and evening wraps. The newest thing is a slip of wide moire ribbon, strips running round figure, and narrow ribbon straps finish- ing the shoulders Nk HE coolest of all the mid-summer hats Doubtless, made including in so many at one and rot straw with perched on one side of the crown, snowy plumage fastened flat agai crown and brim, One the big will be worn so much comes is made of a of hea threads In tan and dark blue. The plaid is out- lined with fuzzy threads in with the hard-twisted 1 Rose petal handkerchie vogue. And now there is t petal glove. The cuff is f bits of kid cut the shape leaves, finished with a picot eds fitted about the wrist fullness to make a fluffy bulky cuff. Sometimes . shaped pieces of kid are lined pink georgette The combination of black and white in gloves is always smart. There is much elaboration in black s on the backs and cuffs of short gloves for street wear with dark frocks, motor coats en a pun weave big plaid of woven espun. s are in rose ned of of rose and ough though not petal- with with e How Carrier Pigeons Find Their Way Home force pigeon from a balloon a mil the ground, was un- the earth below count of a thick blanket of clouds After flying around for some little time the bird gave all hope of finding its way back to its home, some miles away and settled down comfortably on the balloon, much as Noah's dove settled on the ark whe to rest on ac- released e on ac- count of the pigeon, however, had hbetter luck than Noah's dove. After a tim a rift appeared in the clouds and the bird swooped from the balloon through the p in the vaper and two hours later hac ered the message tied to its lex waters CROSSING OVER ABOVE THE WAIST-LINE, AND THEN CON-| TINUES TO THE HII This incident proves th finds its way home b. a pigeon sight, not by - thought New Republic of the North, Is a Land of Thousands of Lakes Representatives. the same, black, and others the pepper and salt suits of our business men. ical parties, * * x x FlShAND has six po and each has its own section of the house. The socialists, or social democrats, as they are called, are grouped at the left. This is the largest party. numbering eighty mem- bers at the last election. In the center are the agrarians, or land owners, large and small, who number forty-two, and off at the right is the Swedish party of twenty-two members representing the Swedish population, which is only 400,000. And then there is the Finnish progressive party, twenty-six in all, and the Christian labor party, which is only two, Now a member his risen to speak. He does not address the house from his seat, as in our halls of Congress, but comes to the rostrum, where on the right or left of the speaker is a pulpit, in which he stands as though he were giving a sermon. The pres- ent speaker is reading from manu- script, looking up now and then as he does so. He is speaking in Finn- ish. The pure Finlanders are proud of their native language and Finnish has been made the official language of the republic. On the other hand, the They dress much some having the stateman’'s members of the Swedish party will speak only in Swedish. All congres- sional papers are printed in the two languages, and when a Swedish mem- ber has finished his speech it is trans- lated freely by a Finnish interpreter. The interpreter is one of the officers of the parliament and he receives a salary as such. He summarizes the speech, giving only the principal points. Now the Finnish member has finish- ed his reading and the speaker has Tecognized one of the Swedes. He comes to the pulpit on the other side of the house and talks, with the in- terpreter standing beside him. As he goes on 1 ask my guide what he is saying. He replies that the ques- tion before the house is the union of church and state. The social demo- crats want to separate the two and the Swedish party demands that the old conditions, in which the church is subsidized by the government, be left as they are. Most of the Fin- landers are Evangelical Lutherans, who number more than 3,000,000 As to the remainden there are 50,000 Greek Catholics, 'about 600 Roman Catholics and 89,000 Baptists. As the speaker goes on with his prosy discussion I see. the members slinking out until at 1ast three-fourths have gone to the lobbies. They go more quietly than our members: of Congress and there is no loud talk- ing or chatting while the speaking goes om At the least noise the speaker brings his gavel down with a thud and he tries also to prevent the applause which sometimes breaks out. i Has Parliament Where One-Tenth of the Members Are Women—Six Political Parties, With the Socialists Most Numerous—The Finnish Nation and Its Fight With the Russians—The Lum- I observe that most of the messen- gers employed in the chamber are women. A middle-aged brunette lady. kept the door of the gallery where I came in and two sprightly young blondes went abeut with glass pitch- ers and gave drinks to the members. The liquid was water, and I can truly certify that prohibition probibits in these lobbies of congress. TT first let me give you a bird's- eye view of this new nation, which, like Minerva from the head of Jove, has sprung full-fledged from the cranium of the Russian bear and now tramps its independent way rejoicing. The Finns came from Russia and are said to have lived along the Volga about 700 A.D., and a hundred years later were crowded from there into Finland. A few centuries after that they fought with the Swedes and were conquered and for 500 years were ruled by them. Later still there werq wars between the Swedes and the Russtans and at the end Finland came under the czar, where it remained un- til the world war. The people, how- ever, were more in sympathy with the Swedes than with the Russians. They were nearly all Lutherans and they objected greatly to the Russifica- tion attempted by the authorities at Petrograd. This Russification began about twenty years ago. At that time the officials of the czar did what they could to crush out Finnish business, culture and religion. They made the country send its goods into Russia free of duty and charged a high tarift on all imports from Russta. They sent in missionaries and established Greek churches. They Russianized the civil service and tried to Russian- ize the schools. They stirred up trou- ble between the working people and the upper classes. They organised a spy system and many Finns were illegally arrested and sent off to Si- beria. Such of the state officials as objected were put into the prisons of Petrograd and this continued until the ‘world war was three years under way. At that time the Russian troops tried to create a revolution in Fin- land. They broke into the prisons and armed the crimipals with riffes. They were aided by the soldiers of the Russian navy and the two looted the country and pillaged the larger estates. This continued until the lst- ter part of 1917, when the Finns de-! clared their independence of Russia| and began to fight for their liberty. They had only edged tools at the start, but they disarmed the Russian garrisons and, under the name of the ‘White army, routed the Russian “SQ(I WINNING INDEPENDENCE FROM RUSSIA, FINLAND HAS OT HAD TIME TO BUILD A CAPITOL BUILDING, SO ITS CON- GRESS MEETS IN THIS TOWERLIKE STRUCTURE, IN THE HEART OF THE HELSINGFORS BUSINESS DISTRICT. SIX PO- LITICAL PARTIES ARE REPRESENTED IN THE PARLIAMENT, AND Oflm OF ITS MEMBERS ARE WOMEN.” ber Yard of Northern Europe—A Land of 300,000 Farmers, Who Thrive in the Latitude of Alaska. troops and the Finnish Red guard. At the end, however, they were able to maintain their republic and by middle of 1919 they had formed a new constitution and established a parliament. They now have a presi- dent and cabinet just as we have and are making their way along the path of the nations as a live, up-to-date political entity. The Finns cannot be compared to the Russian: They look, think and act differently, and have had a dif- ferent experience and civilization. The Russians are naturally socialists. For generations the peasants have ltved in villages, where much of the land was held in common. The Finns have owned their own farms. They are individualists and they have always had more or less freedom. They had a congress before the war and in it they demanded their rights of the czar and of the parliament at Petrograd. Most of them succeeded in keeping out of the Russian army and they were not subject to draft. When the war began it brought com- mercial prosperity. The Finns manu- factured supplies for the troops and they sold timber and wood fuel to Russia. They shipped in wood pulp and paper, and their industries were paying dividends of 30 per cent and upward until the revolution came in. The Finnish mark did not fall with the ruble and today it is on a level with the best of the second-class cur- rencies of Burope. The people are doing all they can to create a stabfl- jzed mark and they are gaming ground right along. The Finlanders are an imteresting people. Living as they do way up here on the roof of the world, they breathe ozone and their hard strugsie with nature has made them one of the strongest of races. Their cour- try is in just about the same latitude as Alaska, but while Alaska has less than 50,000 white oitizens, Finland has more than 3,000,000, and it does a manufacturing and commercial business running into the tens of millions of dollars a year. ¢ ‘We have just begun to farm Alasks. Finland has more than a'quarter of a million farms and it is now annually raising tehs of millions of bushels of rye, oats and potatoes, and large quantities of hay, hemp and flax. It is a live stock country, having cattle: sheep and goats by the hundreds of thousands, and its dairy cows ann &Nty yield several hundred million pounds of butter for export. 3 The republic is just about ‘one- the our territory did as well it would have a population twice that of Hol-} {1and, with fine cities and towns and | factories of description. All the railways of Alaska and the Yukon joined together are a hundred miles eve tween New York and Cincinnati. Fin- land has enough iron tracks to reach Salt lake | and leave some to spare. Almost all the railways belong to the state and they carry each vear about 5,000,000 tons of freight and 17,000,000 passen- gers. In addition there are something like 5,000 miles of public roads and about 2,500 miles of canals. Many of the roads are macadamized and one can motor about almost everywhere. Some of the railways run through the forests, and the canals and water- ways are so many that one can go over most of the republic by boat Finland has been called the “Land of Ten Thousand Lakes.” This name gives but a faint conception of its Waterways. Tt has by actual count over 35,000 lakes, and its waters suit- able for the driving of logs, it joined end to end., would reach from Seattle to Shanghai. Some of the lakes are large, and one, Lake Saimo, has 1,000 islands. It is connected by a canal with the sea. The country is a land of water powers. At the Imatra falls can be generated 150,000 horsepower, and the fall of Pyhakoski has a drop of 200 feet, giving a potential force of 20 000 horsepower. Imatra is the Ni- agara of Finland. The drop is only sixty feet, and the stream is so nar- row that one can throw a stone from one bank to the other, but the water roars as it flies through the rocks with a noise that can be heard five miles away, sending up volumes of mist and foam that vie with the clouds. Have you ever heard of th nish bridge? That is how scientists speak of this country. It is a huge peninsula hanging down from the Arctic ocean into the Baltic between Russia and Seandinavia, forming an isthmus or bridge from ome to the other. The bridge is a granite pla- teau more than twice as big as Mis- souri, and its lakes fill the holes gouged out of the granite when the glaciers moved down and covered the half of north - Europe. There is granites everywhere in Finland: In coming here from Stockholm. I trav- eled most of the Wway through red granite islands, and the whole coast seermed walled Wwith that stone. One can dig-down anywhere here and.find rock fit for his tombstone, and 'the granite will take a polish that will outlast the ages. The tomb of Napoleon, under the Hotel des' Tn- alides in Paris, is of granite from Finland.- | o % ¥ Xk ¥ HE chief resources-of this country are forests and farms. Finland is one of the great lumber yards of from Boston to the great Fin- or so shorter than the distance be-, the world country More in covered lift transport valley half of the 1t stretches of the would cover E woods. you coulg timber and Mississippi up its them to they an area larger than k sas. and you find that everywhere the The forestry better than ours and it is said they have even counted They have more than 300,000,000, of which 70 per cent are pine. The govern- ment knows just how many big logs it can furnish. It has more than 26.- 000,000 large pines and 30,000.000 | smaller ones fit for railway ties. It has fir trees and spruce fit for wood- Pulp and paper. Nearly all the news- papers of Europe are printed on Fin- nish woodpulp, and trainleads of news print may be seen moving over the railroads to the ports. The largest paper-making plant of Kurope is lo cated here, As to lumber. Finland has about 300 sawmills. and there are wood- working factomes of every descrip- tion. The logging carefully done, the trees being sawed off in the win- ter, carried (o the waterways on sledges and rafted down in the spring. The cut in one year is more than 13.- 000,000,000 cubic feet or enough to plank a motor car road an inch thick and sufficiently ide to accommodate twenty cars traveling abreast all the |way from here to the moon The Finns are a nation of farmers Although only about one-twelfth of the country can be cultivated there jare 284,000 farms, ranging in size from eight acres to 75,000 acres. The large estates are comparatively few and the government is buying them and selling them out to small farm- ers on long time. The purchaser pays one-fifth down and has forty years for the balance, at 4 per cent interest, or he can pay sooner if he desires. The subdivision is popular, and it results in the farm formerly held by one man or a company being divided into several hundred farms, each with its individual owner. Sinee 1 have come here I motored out into the ocountry and talked with the farmers. The roads are excellent about Helsingfors and the land has an air of prosperity and thrift. 1 understand that it is even better in other parts of south Fin- land. The fields are well cultivated, and the crops seem eqaal to those of the good farming regions of our country. The fields are divided-into long strips separated by ditches for drainage and the ground is-so molst that for the making of hay the grass has to be dried upon racks as in Nor- way and Sweden. The most common farm vehicle is a sled, which is used |for the hauling of grain, rogt crops and fodder. The sled runners do not |sink into the earth and sleds are used both winter and summer. T see many women at work in the fields and the labor goes on from daylight to dark. 3 Carpenter’s World Travels.. Copvrighi e KAk G. aipeaters) o ia woul are well cared for. the trees, have