Evening Star Newspaper, January 19, 1923, Page 30

TIMELY SUGGESTIONS MADE * FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER How to Handle Materials Which Will Be Popular in Spring and Summer: Mcthods for Sewing Room. HE advance displays of spring and summer wash materials present a charming array of dainty colors and deslgns. There are linens in sheer and heavy weaves, in solid colors or in embrold- | ared styles, crepes and voiles in plain and figured designs, embroldered voiles and cotton crepes in scarlet or in black over white, and flowered wash goods in eretonne patterns on linen, crepe and voile grounds. Embroideries, laces and braids will be fashionable and will be seen on both wash goods and other materials. Dainty embroidered linen and organdy bands and motifs will give an at- tractive finish to summer dresses.and blouses. Soutache embroideries are 0 be much used. White linen bands in scalloped and in triple tier effects are soutached in white or soutached in ‘the same color as the -dress or blouse on which such brald is used. For instance, a golden brown geor- gette crepe dress is Soutached in leat pattern in self-tone with motifs for trimming to ma A1l kinds of braids aro much us in fancy figz- ured designs. They range in width from flat silk brail one-fourth inch to eight inches Cotton braids are only used in the very narrow widt Onl very large bu tons are used as a trimming th season. appearing mostly on tailored coat suit Dresses and Blouses. The new blouses cover the hips and are made in long Rassian blouse style. They are easy to make if little trimming 18 v but many of them are claborately trimmed in beads and ambroide A good design for the home dressmaker to work on is a surplus silk or crepe blouse with a wide shawl collar, and girdle tying over ono hip with a wide bow and ends. Such a blouse should be worn with a pleated skirt of crepe. The skirt should first be hemmed by hand, then sent to a professional then the waist band put on} | at_home. Skirts of dresses, whether of the athered type or in draped style, ually made to cover the ankles. [ Inormous bows of ribbon or huge | “ound rosettes formed of 100ps of rib- bon or the dress fabric are fro- quently placed at the sidc of a dre old the drapery in pluce. “Some- | s the Tosettes are made with bright flowers and gold or silver lace | !n the center, which gives an -afs tractive touch. Buckles are used to told skirt draperies also. Dyed and ecven painted lace are used s a trimming on silk ma- terials. Wido ruffies of lace and em- broidery are used on silks, crepes and wash materials. Printed ilk crepes are made up into entire drosses or used as a trimming on! Fashionable Bead Trimmings. White georgette dresses are beaded in crystal. Voiles are beaded in sim- plo and elaborate patterns and in rich | oriental colori bluee, ruby reds and emerald green appea ing in close, all-over patterns on back grounds of metal nct; colored mets | and georgette are u. as trimmings. | Dancing dresses are made of beaded voiles, jeweled nets and laces and metal cloths, with wide bertha col- lare of colored lace or metal lace. Beaded bands of organdy in change- able effects and bands of cut work on organdy dance dresses are lovely. FEmbroideries can easily be decorated with beads, working Up the pattern with silver, jet or colored beads. Plain bands and beaded girdles arq made by stringing the beads on firm linen thread. These strings of various col- ored beads are then couched down upon net to form bands and medal- Hons. You must design as you go | along when making this kind 6f bead- work. as It is fmpossible to have working patterns for it. Belts and Girdles. The only really fashionable belts are ropo ‘belts in rich jeweled ori- ental designs or faney silk cordings. For instance, a rope belt of heavy dull gold cloth is twisted with a chain of jade green beads and orna- mented at intervals by flower-shaped motifs in dull gold cord, embroidered in_jade green beads: To make a girdle that has the ap- pearance of a silk cord take several | strands of silk, cutting them five | times the length’ desired for the gir- dle. T¥old the strands in half and| ask some one to hold the strands at | the fold and then to fnsert a small | stick (a pencil will do) and to twist the strand with the pencil | to the right. Knot together the ends of the strands which you are holding and also insert a pencil at this end, and, standing opposite to your friend, twist those which you hold to the right at the same time that she is turning the silk at her end. When the strands have been tightly twisted Peter Sees a Race for Life. Danger which fs not guspected ‘“'f. greater fright hll:lh’:;r it When. Peter Rabbit left Old Jed| Thumper, the big gray rabbit, in his| bramble-tangle In & far corner of the 01a Pasture he didn't hurry. He hopped away slowly. As he hopped along ho kept watch behind him. Ie | saw Old Jed Thumper poke his head | out of that bramble-tangle and look aftor him. Peter chuckled down in-| aide. “He'll come” sald Peter tol himself. “He'll come. He's thinking of that cabbage and thoso carrots - REDDY COULD RUN FASTER THAN HE, COULD, S0 THERE WAS \ NOTHING FOR OLD_JED \ THUMPER TO DO BUT DODGE. and apples. He can’t think of those things and stay up here in the Old Pasture. He simply can't do it. His stontach won't let him.” Peter began to run fast 5o as to get out of sight of Old Jed Thumper. Then he sat down behind a bush and watched his back trail. He didn't have to watch long. In fact it was only a moment or two before he saw Old Jed Thumper coming, and Old Jed Thumper was beginning to hurry, There was an anxfous look in his eyes. Inside Peter chuckled again. Then he stopped c¢hickling. He hmd noticed that though Old.Jed Thumpen wag, trying to hurry he wasnit mov- ing ‘very fast, and Peter understood| why. He understqod 'that. that big, | gray rabbit was weak from lack of food. Pater. started on again. but he went slowly. He .didn't look back. ..He suspeeted that Old Jed Thumper aidn't want him to kngw that he was Jeing. {be made. Then sew jthrough both thickneses in the shape {of a buttonhole. Slit the material be- | lenty of bushes and young take the end from your friend and place it in your own. The strands will immediately twist together and make a cord. ‘A very pretty effect will be obtained if the girdle is com- posed of different colored strands. Silk and wool strands look well to- gether. To make a tassel at each end of the girdle, twist some of the silk a number of times round a plece of cardboard three or four inches i FFasten the top ends of the silk, cut the bottom strand through, and tie the silk round near the top of ‘the tassel. Methods in Sewing Room. If & waist or coat hangs badly un- der the arms, take up more material on the “shoulder seams. This will probably make the armhole rather tight, and 1f 0.1t wil] require sloping out a little more. When an armhole is inclined ‘to pucker, carefully snip the ecdges at intervals and press thoroughly. ~ Skirt and seams should be well pressed-and pinked out along both edges of the material. Gathered or pleated ruches and gathered frills make an attractive and fashionable ornamentation for tunics, skirts and panels, on which they may be arranged in vandyked d ® wheels, twirls or other novel devices. These frills are simple to make. For a gathered frill ‘or ruche the strip of material needed should be cut on the bias, but for pleated ruches the strips are better cut on the straight, as they will then set better. A strip measuring half as long again as it is to be when finished should be allowed for a gathered frill or ruche. ¥or instance, if a frill s to be applled to the hem of a skirt measuring two yards round, a strip three yards in length would be needed. The strip, however, for a pleated frill of any kind should measure three times the length the frill is to be when com- pleted. There are several ways of finishing the edges of such frills or ruches. They can be hemmed, picot- stitched, pinked, or raveled. Ravel- ing or pinking are really only suit- able for frills made of taffeta, while picot-stitching looks most effective on such fragile materials as geor- gctte, crepe de chine and similar ma- terials. ‘When sewing on the machine fine silk, georgette crepe, or sheer muslin, lay ‘a_piece of thin paper under the material and sew through both thick- nesses. Tear the paper away care- o that the thread i& not pulled. ke a buttonhole on heavy ma- take a picce of the material ck it on the right side over the plare whers the buttonhole is to on the machine terial tween the lines of stitching, draw the material through the opening, and fell ‘down firmly and invisibly on the wrong side. Bring the facing over, make a slit which allows the edges to be turned under and invisibly catch down. To Dye Laces. successful method of dyeing fine °s of lace is to dip the lace into mixed with gasoline, then care- fully place the e on a piece of muslin to @ As it begins to dry, tack the luce in place with fine needles, stretehing the lace evenly while damp. If you discover a light spot, you can ap| more color to that par- ticular spot. If the lace is not to be washed, it can be pinned to a board over a soft cloth and the flowers tinted. By adding a touch of gold, not too much, the pattern will develop into something suftable for trimming a handsome silk dress. As ordinary dyes are entirely satisfactory for this work, any girl or woman can have lace in any deaired shade. To Freshen Up Evening Shoes. Dance or other evening shoes of black $atin which have been soratch- ed can often be touched up with ink. ‘When the damage is more serious it will be necessary to decorate the shoes to hide the blemishes. Hand- palinted shoes aro now In fashion, and sprays of flowers or tiny birds, little or quaint designs can be »>d on the satin. The ornamenta- tion can be added to the toes, heels, or even the sides of the shoes. Patches of varlegated brocade can be applied, and may be pasted over the toes and shaped o as to fit up under- neath the buckle or other ornament Worn heels can be neatly repaired by pasting on cuttings of brocade or piain thick satin either to match the shoes or in some contrasting colored materia good cleaning preparation ede leather of kind is made ith b zine and bran. Make a fairly thick paste of the two ingredients and then press it down over the leather. Allow time for drying and shake it Off or brush the surface lightly. When the suedo leather appears to be smooth the surface may be restored by gently rubbing with sandpaper. White leather can also be cleaned in this way. B followed. 80 he hopped al ong th the Old Pasture as 1f he bag nur&xulg: n particular on his mind, Now in the Old Pastu quite @ broad stretch in whi are no bramble-tangles. | T thera is ch there lhere Ere rees, but Old cow paths win and out among those bustes any febcr along one of thess paths that ¥ ghWIudl.lmol! through bramble-tangle i e e on 't When ho heard some aiataorCh, 18 him the the hat nal. back. bit she bound, no brambles, Dodging this ‘Way and th: {he Dushes was'a'bic. sray Tebpic Poter knew' that 1t was hee hollo% as he wh, glven that danger signal. And i nd him was Reddy Fox It was (b:)ear to Peter that Reddy must have Busture Dehing O1a 30 oS ,the Old X ed Thumper and surprised him. Old Jed Th making for’ that bramble.tames Where " Peter wag, ror 1t Dlo,engle n IYOI.I‘. place of safety. But he couldn't run straight there. Reddy ogu]fl run faster than he could, so there was nothing for O1d Jed Thump. d'%M“e!u to dodge. And how he ut dodging this wa; around the bushes took atyeneis, Loy 0ld Jed Thumper was weak from’ laci of food. Two or three times Reday just missed him as he dodged. Wealy he be able to reach that brambie. tangle in time? Would he? = Peter ad once h: Jed Thumper. He forgot howatoelda ?e‘g Thumper had always tried to drive him out of the Old Pasture, He could 21;2}% obf rl&(‘il%lngd bu!t‘ how terrible it e e rewia & num»ar.y 'ox should catch (Copyright, 1023, by T. W. Burgess. ———— ' Pimento, Celery, Nut Salad. Chop one can of pimentoes, one bunch of celery and one cupful of nut meats together, then add one- half cupful of sugar,.one-half cupful of vinegar, the stralned juice of one lemon and one tsdspodnful of salt. Soak two tablespoonfuls of powdered gelatin in one-halfcupful of cold water, then add one cupful of bolling ‘water. “When cool, add the other ingredients and pour into a wet ring mold. Turn-éut- when firm and serve shredded lettuce in the center with mayonnaise dressing. . fellows starts up “It’: to the speaker), is joining in lustily WRITTEN AND I'm going to pay off a debt. You'll be' patlent with me while I square my personal accounts, won't you, pal? |It's a debt to the old hymns. Per- haps you've never owed anything to old hymns in your life, They haven't mine, Tately. (2} But there was a gra T was a girl; a little, sh: church in the country. with rose { the window ledge, Through-the.lon | summer mo the ro€€ perfume wove like spice around | sleepy head never heard a word of the sern t some of the old hymns were like c fiture, deep, brave calls that had stirred in 1 isten,World! 1LLYUSTRRATED By Elsie Tobinson Uiy h %&MMMWMM Wy, fl ( Mr. Milton Huggins is no orator—he himself would be the first to concede that fact—but he prided himself | that he had worked up a pretty nifty peroration for the spesch he had to make at his alumni banquet, having | éren can be induced to gone to the trouble to rummage all through Bartlett’s Quotations and memorize eight lincs of verse to give ! way. The older members the thing style. But now, before he has got the third line of the poetry safely launched, one of the Naught-One | too, scatter particles of always fair weather,” and everybody, except the toastmaster (who simply had to listen | over the rugs wi [the hearts of m. | did not follow the ning of the| verses, my heart went adventuring | | with them, out on the waves of music ! And, though I and warm rose scent. out to a world f gold and Liue, where the faith in men's hearts sanz greatly and all good dreams eame trug. I do not know whether the roses are | blooming now. And somewhere along | the trail, the dreams let go my hand, But last Christmas eve the hymns | came back to me. 1 was going home through & rainy street, home to work some more. 1 didn’t feel like Christ- | mas eve. It late and cold and I { was lonely, pal-—lonely and tired and maybe a bit envious of the lights on the other folks' trees. So presently T stood ‘and looked. Before me, by a window, blazed a tree, with lights of green and purple caught within a golden mesh. Out on to the pave- ment led the light 1 spread in | | a bright. glisteriing pool around my t. Out, too, spilled laughter—soino one called and answered—whistled. | sang—the sound of dancing feet and | jazz. And then the noise all stopped | and there was silence- o the sound of bells, ar there rose the bra: then soft e oid “Oh, come all ye faithful, Joyful and triumphant, * To Rethiehem hasten ‘now with Come and_behold Him | Born_the King of Angels, on « adore Him glad accord i { must be Lord:" A | smile record on vou | No. more than that, my friend. ! The healing touch of beauty on a | heart trail w clasp of dreams upon T i I'm grateful to old hyw : (Copyright.. 1923) The Diary of a Professional Movie Fan BY GLADYS HALL. One of the Things That Make Me “Maddest.” You know, there are a great many things I come up against that make me feel like starting a little private war, with or without conscription a3 necessity may demand;.and ene of the things that make me the “mad- | dest” is the frequency with ‘which I hear the statement made that most of the people in the movies arc morons. Do you know what a moron is ELSIE me'uvsolv 1s Well, a moron, roughly speaking, is the man or woman who cannot pass the thirteen-year-old Simon Binet mentality test. In other words, & moron is an adult with a brain de- velopment less than that of the normal thirteen-year-old child. Of course, there are morons and morons just as, to go down a few degrees, there are idiots and idiots, but the thirteen-year-old, test Is the fair average. : Of course, I don’t go 2o far as to say that there are no miérons in the movies. To tell you a dread secret, Diary, I've doubts about myself. I've never taken the Simon Binet test and hence cannot be as positive as T should like to be, but while there's no test there's hope, and to that I clin However, let me back to meh topic. As 1 say, there doubtless are morens in the .movfes. at's oné “of ‘the. things_about morons; yow'rs likely | to find them anywhere. They're not 2 bit particular, and nine times out of ten, as In my own case, they don't even know that they are morons. Unlike me, they may never have thought about it. But I do delieve this, with the passing of ‘the screen June Showers and May Marigolds and December Daisles and other curly- headed ingenues, the movie intelli- gence has jumped ahead. I've learned | Tots of things from screen folk. I've met some of the most cultured and | brilliant people one could meet any where in the movie studios, and T have found before the camera men and women who can range the wide world over in thelr mental activities. Flsie Ferguson, now completing “Outcast” for Paramount, is one of these. She is interested in soclalism, not in the radical sense, but with a fine sense of balance and a desire for fair play and for no more than her own just due. Lillian Gish may look like a will o’ the wigp, but she reads Tolstol and the Old Testament and is of solid mental caliber. Once when I lunched with Carol Dempster she talked Chinese - phi- losophy to me until I thought she really was 2 daughter of Confucius. Eric von Stroheim has an extraor- dinary mind. He is of the genius caliber and one of the most po fshed, well informed and exquisitely courteous men one could well meet anywhere. He has recently signed & contract to direct for Goldwyn, by the way. Theda Bara {s a walking library, so splendidly is she read and so well is she versed in all topics current and cosmic. And she by the way, is about to do "The Easlest Wa; for the screen. JANUARY 1 .| come down to us from medieval times i 1 ; ! VERSIFLAGE ! Disappointment. Oh, well! It's nineteen-twenty-| three, the New Year safely here, but somehow it just seems to me Jike any other vear. It doesn’t do such start ling things, though we made fuss, the <parrows still have brown w the mud still makes muss. And bovs still hate to serub | their teeth, and there are bills to pay and fairies dance upon the heath, and | the night still follows day. And wives | wishing they weren't wed, and maid- | | ens long to be, and cows and horses fed, and bare is every tree And food it still the need of each,] some smile and some do weep, the teachers seem to love to teach and bears in winter sleep. @Now, '23, I feel,| I do. you're somewhat of a fraud. What have you done that's really new that we can loud applaud? WILHELMINA STITCH. [ A L Tha | bein, | Linene made the dress and match- ing bloomers of this smart little frock with batiste for the guimpe. | The guimpe {s made with a round neck and finished with a round collar which may be plain or as shown in the sketch, The sleeves of the guimpe may be long gathered to wrist bands or short finished with turn-bacl cuffs. There is & tuck at the side seams and | the sides are gathered to give the | necessary fulness. Tt would cost but $1.95 if linene at 50 cents per vard were used with batiste at 35 cents per vard. The_pattern, No. 1616, cuts in sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 yea : quires 3 yards ‘36-inch material for dress and bloomers, with 1% yards 36-inch _material for guimpe. Transfer pattern, No. 622—in blue only—15 cents extra. . 3 ce of pattern, 15 cents, in postage stamps only. Orders shoul dreased to The Wash! York eity. Please write name dress clearly. | EVERY LEAF PURE Cleansed by vacuum pressure. PacKed in spotless warehouses Sealed in air-tight aluminum. "SALADA" ‘is sweetly tlean, wholesome, delicious. BUY A TRIALAPACM_GE TO-DAY _ Ha73 led in i 9. ~1923 History of Bour Name. BY PHILIP FRANCIS NOWLAN, COOPER v::(rmflouo—cmor, Copper, hAClAL ORIGIN—English, SOURCE—AnN Occupation. The family name of Ccoper is really the same as our modern word cooper, used to designate a barrel-maker, and the family names of Cowper and Cop- per are but variations of it. It dogs not follow that-the original Coopers, Cowpers and Coppers, how- ever, were all barrel-makers. In fact, the original coopers did not ply their trade at all in the same manner as the modern coopef. They did not make their products from staves and hoops. On the contrary, they worked mostly with the medieval ancestor of the modern turning lathe, “thus nar- rowly escaping bestowing the name of Turner upon their particular pos- terities, as did others of their co- workers. Our modern word “cup” is, 50 to speak, the first cousin of the modern word “cooper,” and really is a more direct descendant of the medieval word. The anclent coopers made ups. They made them for all pur- poses and in all sizes, and out of a great many different materials, though for the most part out of wood, though sometimes out of metal. Chau- ser has a passage which explains that wocd was a material they often work- it was easily turned. uch names as ““Adam le Richard le Cupper le Cowper” and foynd in the witich have Tur. Entries of Kuppere” and as well as the form “le Coop: are 1o be tax and census records in England. (Copyright, 1923) Your Home and You BY HELEN KENDALL. A Coat-Rack Outside. When the snowy days come, and the youngsters come tramping in from their play with wet rubbers and gaiters, enowy coats and caps and tippets caked with fce, it certainly takes a patient mother to endure the “tracking up” of the hall—even the back hall—if the chil- come in that of the family, | snow ana ice they come in‘ ever from outdoors. “My house a totally difter- | ent place sir i defied conven- tion and put my coat rack outsid ms front door instead of inside it re- margked a thoughtful housewife. “I had s heer T boldly ne of t*m’ old tall office hat-trees that 't being used. so 1 stood it out there apd insi that when the children were tagcome robber hoots and kegps all wet out and | leaves nfy hall ruzs cl a d ! % Youn: E ¢ theiff outer wraps, so they do not catch cojd in that brief moment that | they stand outside. and their heavy woolen stockings keep their feet from | getting cold after they pull their rub- bers or boots off, which is done last. “We elders do the same thing. Rub- bers are removed outside, drippy um- brellas are put out there and wet coats are hung temporarily on the wooden pegs. The snow and ice soon shake or drip off of them and then they are brought indoors to get warm before put on again. “T have & similat hat-tree on the back porch, on which hang our heavy capes for ekipping back and forth to the ga- rage or toolhouse, and my maid uses this rack for her heavy artics and coat when she comeg in. It saves the wear and tear on the inside of the house to an appreciable extent, I assure you. caps outs the ad un- A coffee tree viclds about a pound} o beans In_a_scason e You Too Fat? ‘ou are, nd want to re- in a entific manner, under the supervision of a guarantees results without the aid of chiropractics, drugs, strenuous exercises, weakening diets, or baths—consult Miss A. M. BLACK Graduate Nurse Suite 209, The Chastleton Phone North 10000 for Appointment. ful of salt. Slowly shake in one cupful of Comet Rice. W'henlnh_!\wio-d'bfi]- for twenty minutes. The grainsshould then be soft. Drain through a sieve, place this over the saucepan, and set on the back of stove for a few min- utes. FEATURES: By Edna Kent Forpes. BEAUTY CHATS Vanity Purses. A friend in Paris has been sending me long letters full of the most fas- cinating suggestions for pretty things that any girl can make for herself, Alas, the best suggestion of all comes too late to be useful as 2 Christmas Bift jdea—so you must be selfish and utilize it in a post-holiday gift for yourself, The letter is all and vanity purses. The new vanity purse is just large enough to hold powder and puff, a mirror. with a place for chamge and perhaps a bill or so. One could get in a lipstick and the tiniest of nail files, but noth- ing more. Pouch bags are not gone but going. The new bag is flat and shaped somewhat like an envelope. Do you want to make a beaut such as friend deseribed? i ol enough. e a length of re ribbon—the newest thing The length depends upon the ribbon's width. Fold it on itself three times and enough to make the resulting shape pretty—about three-quartera of a yard does it. Cut a plece of moderately stiff capvas a little shorter and narrower than the ribbon and lay it on as an inne lining, andl lay on the same lengtl of white moire ribbon you have black. Whipstitch or machin te) the edges closely together, fold int three parts, like an envelope, wh stitching two of them together the body of the bag. leaving the th free as the flap. Then—here touch—take 2 yard of black silk. cc sew a tassel 10 each end. sew e tasel to each lower corner of the and the cord up the edges. The loop left over ix the b i The sels hang dowr the cord hides vour whip Your vanity bag looks qu onal Mary about handbags below t en.—Exe ultivated jost 80 you n d net St you permanently | ®lad to mail you the | it vou wi 1 shall b etash Tormul ADVERTISEME [Now is the time to fight constipation with Bran—S$ diseases that fol- | ur NT. Don't give low in the tr cooked and it is ALL BR i1l give you constipation prepared to relieve suffe | bumanity from constipation, and it | Bran | will do that. at it will p alth footir you all from p | keep Sran’s action Is wonderful. It|every one ou ps and cleanses and purifies. It |that it will f | knocks out the dangerous toxic |and cathartics poisons and frees the system from | pallution! Try Kellogg's Bran for a| Kellogg’s Bran is particularl Week. Eut it regularly—two table- |lightful made in raisin breac | spoornfuls each day: as_much each | ITACAroons, Dopovers, mu | meal in chronie cases. You will be © the difference in vour 1d not be con- | which is Millions of ters, and You Every morning millions of minds gain their poise and determination and ideals for the day over their coffee. You know how it is—a cup of the coffee you like best and your whole soul feels better—you can see things more clearly. Since 1864 the ideal ofg hase & Sanborn has been to give this cotintry coffee that would win popular appreciation. The degree to which we have succeeded is shown in the increasing demand for Seal Brand. Wherever you go—from coast to coast, fastidious coffee drinkers delight in Seal Brand. It is always fresh, always packed in one, three and five pound sealed tins. Sold by reliable merchants everywhere. % Trade supplied by Chase & *Sanborn © " 68.78 E. Lake St Chicago Chase S“Sanborn‘s SEAL BRAND COFFEE A cream cheese is a soft, Every one concedes that MacLaren’s Blue Ribbon Cream Cheese is good— many say it's the best. One thing at least is certain: thereisnothingleftundone to make it the best. That was the idea when the first package of MacLaren’s was made, and it has been followedstrictly eversince. Be sure you get MACLAREN'S -CHEESE