Evening Star Newspaper, January 14, 1923, Page 77

N THE - SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTO D. C, JANUARY 14, -1923—PART 3. Taffeta Hats Have Become Conspicuous in Midwinter Millinery Few Large Shapes Have Made Their Appearance, and It Is Believed.the Small Hat Will Continue Its Career Through the Spring—In New Forms It May Have a Veil, Give Glimpses of Silver Ribbon, Have Big Bow at Back, and Show Crown So Large That It Sinks Over Head. Exquisitc Lace; Feather Decorations and Ribbon in Cockades or Bows or Windmills Are Con- spicuous—Sport Hats Shown With Blouq‘es. Mufflers and Jackets to Match. \ N N .14 THIS HAT FOR THE SOUTH, OF BLACK STRAW WITH IRREGU- LAR BRIM OF BLACK SATIN, IS TRIMMED WITH ROSETTES OF RIBBON. THE BLOUSE IS OF WHITE CREPE WITH HIGH COLLAR THAT WRAPS AROUND THE NECK LIKE A MUFFLER, AND IS EMBROIDERED IN BLACK BRAID. / THIS HAT, OF BLACK TAFFETA, THE FABRIC CHOSEN BY MILLI- A PANEL OF NAfllr(R(?W BLACK BRAID OUTLINES THE SPINE NERS TO RIVAL SATIN AND PRECEDE SPRING, HAS A DIA- DEM OF WIRED LACE AS CROWN TRIMMING. A FLANGE OF THE LACE COVERS THE EYES LIKE A VEIL. THE COLLAR, WHICH IS A BIT OF WHITE GEORGETTE DECORATED WITH ‘ A BLACK BOW, IS QUITE NEW. ! HELMET HAT OF BLACK TAFFETA, WITH HIGH €ROWN AND LARGE MEDALLION OF BLACK RIBBON FRAMING ORIENTAL EMBROIDERY. THE WHITE LINEN BLOUSE WORN WITH THE BLACK TAFFETA SUIT HAS RUFFLED COLLAR, ALSO CUFFS, WHICH IS ATURE OF MIDSEASON CLOTHES. hats with it, make ruches, flowers,| feathers and medallions of it. Some of the helmet hats are made of small | ruffies - of taffeta ribbon, black on one side, mauve, sreen or gray ) the other. Double-faced ribbon give fered by a sport ghop is of white gling of garments. As the clathes|a chance for Infinite color schem creps de chine, the skirt arranged in|which are offered for midwinter| Windmill bows of plain or ribbed knife-pleated groups, the girdlo fit- sports will be repeated for street and | ribbon stand out from the back of ting hipe like 3 yoke, the blouse loose | country clothes in the spring, neither |a hat as though they were pushing and graceful with surplice opening |time nor money is wasted In buying |a woman along. There are salls of | down front to show chemisette of | them now. | ribbon standing straight up from a embrotdered muslin, the peasant| Take a black and white costume ns]tiny brim. Ribbon cockades are ves gathered into a low armhole, |an example of clever assembling of | copied from those worn by rovaity is far better in sports than in the street. The change in the neckline is 8o im- portant that it may have a strong influence on hats as the season strengthens. The high collar is ae- cepted and that in itself suggests a small hat. The round decolletage with a deep bertha or a small collar of precious lace finished with a cameo or o1d brooch will bring brims back into fashion, one would think Such collars and brooches have The smart way THIS MODIFIED RUSSIAN SHAPE, IN BLACK STRAW AND TAF- FETA, 1S DECORATED WITH HUGE POMPONS OF GREEN AND BLACK. THEY ARE BUILT OF SMALL FEATHERS, NOT OF they have been since pre-war days.|launched last August continues in RIBBON, AND FOUR OF THEMCARE ChoUFEn pasks, NOT OF .| Wreaths of flowers do mot appear,|fashion. It has stiffened comb run- ostrich feathers do not flogt from |ning across the top, extending from the brim, but silver ribbon, exquisite | ear to ear. In the beginning it was lace, feather decorations expertly|Wworn Wwith a fifteen century veil of fashioned, and ribbon in cockades, lace or silver gauze causually thrown in stiffened bows, in swirling wind- | over it, the points hanging to should- mills, are conspicuous. lers. It was made, also, of silver The kind of taffeta miliners like | 8auze to be worn with formal after~ is dull in finigh and permits a variety | noon frocks or used as a headdress BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE, | woman buying a gown. The trade is passionately absorbed in labels, but the public is absorbed in getting ! something it likes. The talk mout | American designing and French crea- | tiveness goes over its head like a light summer cloud, an aimless bit of puft that dissolves on the horizon. Tt T is somewhat early for straw hats, but they dot the landscape even when it is covered with snow and sleet. But what use is it to argue with women against the wearing of unseasonable clothes? They consider that a straw hat len for the theater. piquancy to a snowstorm. that a vel- vet hat 1s rather whimsical on a blaz- ing August day. Most of women's| caprices are purposeful, you know. Behind them lie centuries of subtle reasoning. The philosophers may not know this or they may not reveal it, but women know it of women. | The trade, of course, helps us to be | whimsical and capricious in clothes; | therefore we have a plentiful offer- | ing of spring hats at the moment | when fur coats are put into needful service. But if fashion were not a bit humorous, something of a jest, it would be & dull world. Those who consider clothes as mere coverings to | keep them warm or cool look upon | fashion with lack-lustre eves, | The spring hats that have arrived | with Palm Beach clothes are of taf- | feta, of horse hair, of various straws, | Chinese and Italian. There's an amaz- | ing variety of names for these fab-| rics, but the public cares less and less | for names. ‘It has ceased to Ingulre | who is the maker of a gown, a hat or a fabric. We have arrived at a condi- tion where the label of a French | dressmaker is nearly meanlingless to | Listen DITIH and Bill are divorced. Grounde? Incompatibility. Couldn't get along, nohow, no- | where, no time. “Our souls | weren't mated,” sighed Edith. “I'm | off women for good,” snorted Bill. | “You're free* announced the Judge. | And that's that. | But is “that that” Is incompati- | bility & sufficient ground for divorce? | Now, I'm not going to indulge in a| diatribe against divorce. But I/ would like to hurl a nasty adjective | against this “soul mating” theory, | and this is my chance. Contempo- rary literature is all gummed up with efusions about “blended souls” and other romantic phenomena. Tt sounds pretty, but I honestly believe that it's tommy rot, and the most dangerous sort of propaganda for youngsters entering matriomony. I dom’t think that humans were ever intended to achieve their great- est happiness through “blending” with our selected mate, but rather by blending with all life and the in- terests of all men. Human characters aren't bunches of Oolong and Ceylon. They are ever-changing forces, constantly re- acting to 2 milllon outer stimuli, constantly amalgamating with all life and all experience. If they do not do this they dateriorate. ® ok % ok 'DITH and Blll have failed in mar- riage, not because they are in- dividually’ unsuited ‘o each othey, but because they have made no aerious effort to fit themselves and theilr wedded partnership into the larger sociasl program. They were taught that love was sufficient. They thought It would cure all the weak- nessess, limitations and unpleasant reactions which hampered them be- fore marriage. It didn’t, It never does. And mow they are blaming it on love and saying they are incom- patible. s Edith and Bill are not alone in their anticipations and lamentations. Such have been the thoughts of nearly every lover since the dawn of time. His whole life, prior to marriage may have been a failure due to im- patience, cowardice, dishonesty, silli- nees, laginess or a score. of .other| weakpesses. He might huve wrecked is a stranga thing that this fact is more apparent at a time when whole- salers are the dominant buyers in the French market and modified French clothes permeate every shop and sell trom fifteen dollars up. i R A Tur;m»: is no end of straw hats going to where south winds blow, but taffeta is pressed upon the world as a popular rival to other fabrics for midwinter wear in the snow as on the sands. Few large shapes have made thelr appearance, 80 we take it for granted that the small hat will continue its career through the spring. Summer will probably reinstate the sunshade shape, especially in our country where the sun demands a brim between it and the eyes. At the moment, how- ever, the small shape rules. It 1s not 3s small as it was, and something has changed in its outline. There is more to it than there was. It has| a veil, it gives glimpses of silver| ribbon, it has & big bow at the back, it has a crown No large that it sinks| over the head. Hats are more ornamental than WAS FRAGILE A% A TLOWER. AND 50 IN WEDLOCK THRICE SHE TRIED TO FIND HER IDEAL TUT ONE T3Y ONE SHE SADLY GAVE EACH LOVING SWAIN THE GATE. THE TRUTH IS THAT DEAR MAYRELLE COULD HAVE SHUNNED THIS SAD SUSPENSE . GIVING UP HER IDEAL SEARCH AND USING COMMON . SENSE. every other partnership into which! he had entered. But let Jove once come and immediately he felt that these little diMculties would be smoothed away. When they weren't | —as of course they weren't—he Im- mediately blamed it on marriagé. He wasn't mated”—that was “the root of the troubl But that wasn’'t the root of the| trouble. The most perfect. msting in the. world can’t bring happiness unless you possess the ability fo ‘ob- tain happiness, mated or unmated. The most imperfect mating cannot destroy your strength and joy if you have the 4ualities by which life in general may be conquered, mated or unmated. The unhealthiness of these decora- tive articles about marriage lies in the fact that they Jead us to.concen- trate on love a8 though it were. the main issue after marri t fsm't. of curious things to be placed on its surface. One hat, for instance, has a diadem of lace in the shape of those worn by royalty. A flat edge of it forms a veil to mask_ the eyes, Another taffera hat that looks like a huge inverted flower pot carffes a conspicuous medallion consisting of an embroidered canec surrounded by tight pleatings of ribdon. Thére are combinations of straw and (affeta in small shapes so bullt that they eclipse the head and show only an earlock. Such hats are trim- med with ribbon In any fantastic form the milliner devises. Decoration by pin feathers grows in importance. It was begun three years ago by dressmakers who used it as buckles for drapery, as orna- ments for belts, as an ornament on satin slippers. Later, the milliners exploited it in small, important clust. ers of decoration. One hat of black taffeta worn today has big snowballs of green and black pin feathers over one ear. The wearer looks as if she 'had that side of her head exposed to the snowballing of boys in the street. The Venetian mediaeval hat The midseason hats fashioned in this shape are dull things compared to the originals. They are built of velvet, of taffeta, of straw and they haye ceased to be sensational. They are merely demure, good-service hats ready for emergencies. Thus have the mighty become humbled. * % ¥ % 'HATEVER remains to be said of the holmet hat -concerns its popularity. Its. repetition does not stale its charm. Far from avoiding it, women order three and four con- trasting colors and fabrics. The majority of sport hats are helmets. The trimming varies and the crown is higher in some than others, but the ‘one idea runs through all. The 1fk- jing for. lichen green has not de- | creased. That particular shade of a | virle color is delightful in sport | costumery. Againat the smow and | against the sands, it is suggestive of | foliage. It goes with white and beige frocks, which is well, for thess two célors grip the imagination of the designers this season. A new white gown, by the way, of- WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED DY ELSIE TROBINSON Lifé is the main issue. “And 1ife alone can act 48 an adequate. buffer be- tween fwo personalities bound in the bond of wedlock. 4 v * ok ok ok F you haven't enough humdrum live ing . issues to contend with, there's going to ‘be trauble, The reason our . grandmothers _.stood our grandfathers w. not * because they -were “spirtually. blended,” but ‘because they had.so much else to think about. scrubbing, washing, cooking, raising half 3 dozen bables—such things are excellent counter-irritants to the poss #ible peevishness of a partner. “There wasn't an inch of common ground between us,” grieved Edith. Piffle! -All married partmers possess acres of “common.ground” it they will look for it. In fact. there is mighty _little in Soap, making, Weaving. | human experiencej that isn't common ground for every one if you have a willingness to neighbor. Three meals a day, carpets, shoes, politics, pupples, toothaches, tempers, banana peelings, busted tires —the million crowding demands of each day will provide a common in- terest and a mutual bond if you will stop chesing rainbows. Stop chaging rainbows—there, I think, lies the solution of most of our married discontent. Accept marriage for the thing it is and your married partner for what he or she may be. You'll note that they promise that there shall be no marriages in heavén, ‘Marriage is a partnership by the way, Sometimes the partnership fails—al- ways it disappoints us if we lean too heavily on it. But the big plan of life goes on just the same—and we will fing joy and fulfiliment if we co-ordi- nate ourselves with that plan, but not otherwise. (Copyright, 1823.) elaborately embroidered in red and black woolen threads. This embrold- |heavy white creps de chine, has alof ol deep girdle buttoned at back; its! ery extends over the shoulders and is' THE CORRECT NOSE VEIL IS SHOWN ON THIS BLACK HAT, BONNET. A FRILL OF SILVER RIBBON GOES AROUN BACK, AND THE LACE OF THE VEIL CASCADES OVE! the only note of color in the frvck.l It is copied In canary yellow and pale blue embroidery, but the copy is not as effective as the original Sport hats are now shown with blouses, mufflers and Jjackets to match. We have ceased to buy one separate garment unless we know whether it can be gracefully assem. bled with others. The designers have taught women the folly of putting money {nto a hat that does not match anything else, a coat that has no re- lation to any gown in the closet, & blouse that is useless until a new skirt is chosen. These various gar- ments are now assembled by the dressmakers. Thbey are often made by one designer. A woman can go into a shop and buy the whole cos- tume in one effort. This is especially helpful in sport costumery, where much depends upon the proper min. Menu for & Day. BREAKFAST. Sliced Oranges. Hominy with Cream. Bacon and Eggs. Graham Mafiins. Coftee. LUNCHEON. Savery Bean Croquettes. Sulr-:ld B:vvn Bread. Mustard Pickles. Baked App] tuffed with Nuts, w!lhsw DB.&E!GIN. n . Hot Chocolate. DINNER. ‘White Vegetable Soup. Roast Goose. Stewed Apples. Baked Sweet Potatoes, Eullom Onions. IS, Jellied Asparagus Salad. Cunuripff Nuts, tree. several garments. The blouse, of sleeves are short and its high collar is a single strip of the material, heavily embroidered- in black silk cord at one end, then wrapped about the neck like a muffler, the front end dropping over the chest. A panel consisting of narrow black silk braid runs the length of the spine. The black skirt harmonizes with a black bralding on the blouse; the soft hat is black straw with rosettes of blaek and white ribbon at side. This decoration of the spinal col- umn, by the way, is exploited ' by many designers. They like the idea. They combine it with pleated dra- pery down front of skirt, which is an ancient adjustment of fabric. Orna- menting the back of blouse and front of skirt gives the observer a chance to look at both sides of a gown. * ¥ % ¥ NOTHER black and white costume arranged for pleasure life in Florida and Georgia consists of a taffeta skirt and coat, the latter, looking ltke a slim basque until it reaches the waist, where it flares into a peplum lined with white. One white button is at the waist. The linen blouse has 'a high collar fin- ished with three ruffies, and still more ruffies are put into the jacket sleeves. The helmet hat of taffeta has a me- dallien of ribbon and embroidery in front. Ribbon has saved the day for the milliners. They now know what to do with every hat. It is the ace of trumps. The revival of this ancient form of decoration is tempestuous. There is no. escaping from its virile influence. Dressmakers use im- mense cascades of ribbon on one hip and long loops to give side or front drapery to skirts; milliners cover and footmen since the commencement distinetion. Small hats of wide black satin rib- OW IS AT THE R EACH SHOULDER. i bon that fold flat and go into an en- velope remain in fashion. They ex- tend far out at the sides and are strikingly suggestive of the cocked hats men carried under their arms when wigs were too enormous to be crushed by covering. The recrudescence of Venetian renaissance costumery revived the tricorne hat of satin and metal cloth with & masque veil. This season the veil appears on hats that are not even poor relations to Venetian finery or to any class of society under the doges. Nose veils that were considered a bit too capriclous and coquettish when first worn in America are now com- monplace. They are attached to hats sold on bargain counters at small prices. Despite their constant repe- tition through all strata of millinery they remain smart and fashionable. They may be two inches wide and serve as a masque, they may be five inches wide and serve as drapery. None of them is long enough to throw back over the hat, none is tightened under the chin. The most fashionable expression of the Vene- tian veil is in theVenetian manner as & masque, but designers are too eager in their exploitation of it to limit its appearance. HERE is a separate square veil of tulle or net embroidered in lace which is thrown over a helmet or tiara hat When these were launched they were considered too extreme for any but those who walk in the lime- light, but like all fashions, they are accepted through famillarity. The.oriental veil drawn up the face at the sides, leaving the eyes uncov- ered, is worn by a few women, but it |changea the coiffure. | her to arrange one's hair is to part it in middle, bring it down to top of ears and roll it in & small knot at nape of neck. This fashion was begun last August in pleasure places, and later it wag taken up by stagefolk. Now it has gotten Into general society. The round neckline, the lace collar and the big brooch are conspicuous in the new silhouette. It is in these changing details that, fashion is fmportant. 1t is well for every woman to watch them. She won't be caught napping. (Copyright, 1923) Paying Damages. Sometimes an embarrassing situa- tion arises when, a guest does some real, though uninientional, damage t6 the property of his host or hostess, He feels that he ought to make amends, yet he does not know whether he can do this without giving offense. For instance, he may inadvertently break some piece of glass or bric-a- brac. In driving a friend's automobile he may permit some slight damage . to come to the car. He may even for- get to close his bedroom window and feel responsible for the rainspots on the wallpaper or window hangings. Now the only real reason for giving offense in making an effort to repay lies in the awkwardness with which-- such an offer is often made. To sug- gest baldly to pay what the damage costs 15 usually the tactless way to go about it. In the case of the dam-" age dene to the automobile, even If this is slight, the gueat should inform the owner of the car concerning the:’ damage and then quite positively an- nounce his intention of settling with' the garage man for the repairs nPed'. ed. However, if a mishap occurs to the automobile that is obviously due to the previous conditfon of the car this would hardly be necessary. = If the bric-a-brac or glass is of trifiing value the incident is usually, passed over without suggestion of. making amends. 1t possible the broken article should be replaced by personally buying one to take its place. If any damage is done to some - articlo that cannot be duplicated-. exactly the penitent guest should buy- something that he thinks will take its place, and send it as soon as possible to his hostess, begging her to forgive him his awkwardness. Housewife’s Task. * 1f there are delicate children in her family the housewife resolves to make it her personal business during the next year to see that the food for the children is well cooked and kept a8 scrupulously clean as possible, She resolves to put matters of diet ahead of matters of household decora- " tion or thought of dress for the com- ing year. b If there is 2 tendency on the part’ of children and aduits to drift away from home, in leisure hotirs the. housewife resolves to spend more time and money in providing home entertainment. She buys indoor. games wWith the :money she had planned to spend on mew equipment.: and reads directions for playing somes: new game that all the members of: family can enjoy, instead of directions for & new pudding. o 1t she has come to the end of the year worn out and fagged the houses": wite 'wisely Tesolves to plan her family schedule so that there will be time ' for a nap every day, even though the map must needs be brief. 1t her eves find no place to rest with satisfaction the four walls of her house the housewife ' wisely resolves not to let the next year wane until she has developedc some more definite and satisfactory-: scheme of decoration in her owm_ house. A ¢ within