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[ THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, d. JANUARY ‘14, 1923—PART 5. Slgns of War’s Devastation Rapldly Dlsappeang in Bel SO AT T DA AT A AT A A BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. Cverywhere Along the War Front in Belgium. AM dating this letter “Every- where along the war front” For the past few days I have been motoring, with Jules at the wheel, from town to town and from battiofleld to battlefleld, mak.|as ono of their great war etations of | ) 0 $ Decorated With Carvings—W hat Three Hundred Co-Operative Societies Are Doing—Lottery Bonds With Fortunes as Prizes—A Visit to ““Big Bertha's” Brother and Her Sisters Which ing notes of the rebuilding that has| Deen going on here since the war. It began in 1818, and has so trans- formed the country that some of the tourist organizations have stopped taking their parties through the dit-| ferent salients because the signs of | @evastation have almost passed awa: You all know how roughly Bel- gium was dealt with during the world ! war. She incurred the anger of the Germans by kolding back their armies when pounce down upon Paris they In 1914 frontier, and on August THE LIBRARY OF THE ( In the means ad up and made valn werp, bom® the canio wh tantry, eugaged gradual until they reached the that is a part of the sto FTER the battle of Mc Belgium was e British and French. ready been taken mans two days before, Malines had been destroyed by blg guns, the ca- thedral of Louvain battered und its Ubrary of valuable manuscripts and 300.000 volumes burned, and the t ing Antwerp w Belglans under King Alb During the bombardment of M tines and Louvain hundreds of b nees buildings and private dwellings were reduced to dust aud the was true of a few hundred str in Antwerp its During my I bave visited each of these cities. Many of the bulldings have been re- stored and in rome cases much bet ter ones created. The streets of Lou . valn are, still filled with construc tion material, and a network of scaf folding poles, tied together with ropes, runs around the cathedral and the old library, and as far as the modern city Is concerned the towna will soon be in better shape than ever before. The new private buildings are artistic. Many of them are of white stone and some have their walls decorated with carvings. All are In harmony with the old sur- roundin; Louvain's new millin-dollar library, the funds of which are being raised by 640 colleges and universities in the United States, is golng up and is to be completed in 1925. It i« not on the site of the old one, but faces the Place du Peuple, which is filled with old forest trees and there are large flower beds In one of the squares at the side. The design is by Whitney ‘Warren, an American architect, and the building harmonizes with the typical architecture of Belgium. Tt will have two stories with a high ridged roof above which a huge bell tower will rise. Across the front are to be sunk great letters reading, “Furore . Teutonica Diruta, Dona: Americano Restituta” which means “Destroyed by Teutonic Fury, stored by America's Gift.” When I visited it last week the foundation of one corner had been laid and the brick and stone construction had risen to the first floor. Great quanti- ties of red structural steel imported from America lay here and there in- side the high board fence which sur- ‘ rounds the site. The stono cutters ‘wore busy and gangs of masong were at work. square of ground. est land In the city and its tower will be seen for miles over the country. On my way to Antwerp I saw the place where the guns which sent shells as big around as a fiour bar- thels to be arderd and en by bt wer step But France. s most of ated by Brussels had al- over by the Ger rel & distance of ten miles into that| oity were mounted. The site, I am told, had been fixed by the Germans bofore the war. They were set up on the foundation of & wooden villa which covered a bed of reinforced concrete of great thickness. The villa was taken away and these huge seventeen-ineh guns, whose enor- ‘mous size astounded the world, were placed there. The bombardment lasted they had prepared to| LOUVAIN IS BEING SERMA? the | Re- | The building covers a full! It is on the high-! , thirty-six hours and during a part of this time the guns dropped a shell | every minute. A gun could fire only | a limited number of shells before it | | had to be allowed to cool. The dam- | {age done to Antwerp was small and |tho cathedral escaped, for the Ger- | | mans expected to matntain the port | the future and to use it as Napoleon ! |did when he said, “Antwerp is a| | 10aded pistol that I hold against Eng- {1ana's throat” In all only 700 build- ings were de oyed ul\d e of them h that the city was glad to have them removed. Tho Antwerp of | today shows no signs of the war. P | | 5 1€ v 1¢ | x | N October 9 when Antwerp Wfls‘ i | Belgtans and the British had left the | eity and fallen back upon Ghent, |where two days later they retired.| had one million men massed on | The Germans went on to take Ghent |enemies. \and Bruges, and within less than al . e CONTAINED 300,000 chicd Ostend h an army was on the River ‘ aber the great bat- | leh lasted ten days, th place upou the land, upon d in the That was the attie in aviators were which Elevcp_ Lions ‘Kdled by antlng Party in Single Morning ‘s Bt we made an- moving camp twenty 5 spread | te, 50 as to com- country as 11 in behind us. seemed rather scarce. A few were occasionally passed and two ee Thinos were sighted in the dis- tance, but no zebra was seen at all—a possible caus2 of the scarcity of loms, zebra is their favorite food. | We had gone six or eight miles on ur way when one of the safari had | pazsed three lions that did not run at mand possibla. Game a vie The dog & REBUILT WiTH MONEY GIVE VOLU ME: ' British | #1ght of them, but lay down In the grass | as they passed. We had gone down & | donga that had only an occasional tree | | for shade. Our hunter, Hill, was the first to sight | | them, two blg lonesses lying in the| grass near the dong: We turned on the dogs, first glving Capt. Murry two | shots at them. At tiie crack of he gun | off went the dogs After a chase we killed had put up a desperate fight against the ! dogs and crippled several of them. The wounded dogs were put into the | | Bary for medical care and we began lo| look for the third lion. Two grown onest were soon sighted by Dr. Johneon. They were young and gaunt and put up a good chase. but Mr. Ratney finished one | and the captain the other (his first | on). , but each ‘EXT morning we left the dogs and mules, taking some boys to drive out reed beds below the camp. There were signs of lons along the donga and RDWP‘ that looked to be fresh along the rushes. The twenty boys were marching through the rushes, hitting them with their long sticks and shouting loudly. Mr. Ralney took a stand high up on a rock, well ahead to the left, while Capt. Murry and his hunter, Percival, stood under a tres well ahead, on the right bank of the rushes. Mr. Ousman, Hill, our hunter, Roy Stewart, and I walked slowly along, keeping in line with the boys. All of & suddun there was a tremen- dous rustle in the rushes as some huge | brute raced through them. We could plainly see the line of his flight by‘ the moving of the rushes, and he broke cover fifty yards {n front of us. 1t proved to be a huge lion with full mane golr - at top speed. The enor- | mous brute, with his twenty-foot | etride, was a sight worth while, 1 had him covered as he broke cover, | but Mr. Ousman sald, “Don’t shoot yet jor he will turn upon us.” ! 1held my fire unt!l he was one hun- dred and fifty yards away, when three or for rifies rarg out at the same time. Some one hit him, for he stopped stock still, swinging his tall in big circles, looking to right and left and growling fiercely. All of & sdden h: spled Mr. Rainey on the rock and started etraight for ihim. Another volley was poured in }upon him from three directions. Mr. | Rainey was the closest. His bullet took the animal full in the chest and the lion fell in his second stride. There was a momentary sllence when one of the boys shouted, “Simba ! engeane” (Another lion). Suddenly | the rushes began ewaying again, and then & lioness broke cover at about the same place as her mate, but on the opposite side. As she mounted the bank a volley was fircd, but no one | | bunch of boys running to the scene ) Many of the Buildings Have Been Restored and in Some Cases Much Better Ones Cre- ated—Louvain Will Soon Be in Better Shape Than Ever Before, With a New Library Built by America—Private Structures Are Artistic, Many of White Stone, and Some Have Walls Bombarded Antwerp. o DD TS TIODD D < successfully employed; and it was the one in which the Belgians shot holes that {ts waters, increased by the in- flowing tide, spread over the country, | inflicting severe losses upon their It was about the same time that! BY AMERICAN COLLEGES. AND MANY PRICEL! the battle of Ypres or, as the Britis Tommies called The first shell n that town on October later 20, 000 Germans passed through it. Six days after that the ftish sol- | diers came in, and on October 19 the met the Germans in a con- ONE OF THE TWENTY-SEVEN LIONS KILLED BY SHELLEY AND HIS COMPANIONS IN THE TWO-WEEK HUNT IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN GAME PRESERVE. horses in camp and rode extra|hit her. I saw at a glance that only | Rainey standing on by aid of the dogs was there a chance of getting her. * % k¥ HE sun was now high, the grass| as dry as powder, and scent would | not last long, so I must get the dogs to the place as soon as possible. We rode to the edge of camp, called the| dogs, and etarted back. | We struck the trail about midway | up the opening, but the dogs showed no signs of scenting it. Finally old | Dewey struck and opened, and away went the pack after him at full cry. | There was a momentary loss where the lioness went to cover, but when the old collie, Doc, picked up the trail In the heavy cover, &s the pack was going to him, he came upon her and | we heard her growl flercely. She stood her ground at first, but | as the full pack came in, she broke and ran, almost knocking down a from camp. The dogs came through on her trail a hundred yards behind. As she crossed an opening thirty yards from me, 1 fired, threw a second cartridge Into the chamber and fired again before the others were ready. Mr. Rainey, Capt Murry and Per- cival all fired with their big guns within the fraction of a second after my second shot. I fired the third time simultaneously with Mr. Rainey's second barrel just as she came down, and I then gave her another in the chest, so she could not hurt the dogs. By this time she was literally covered with dogs. Dr. Johnson, who had remained in camp, came running up with all of his pockets full of shells of the sev- eral different calibres, as he thought the reason we had stopped firing was because we had run out of ammuni- tion. The lion which had chargeg Mt ’ ! up the Stony Atht. test that lasted three weeks and re- sulted In the Germans losing a quar- | surrendered by the mayor, the|in the raised banks of the river, s0/ter of a million of men and the allies,one of the richest industrial towns of more than one hundred thousand. Another battle took place there in | 1815, and a third in 1917, when the British advanced and pushed back the Germans. In each of these battles THE BUILDING DESTROYED BY TANUSCRIPTS. there was urrounding o ) towns and villages the worst destruc suffered during t To understand t must recall Ypres of the past than two centuries before throughout the which wiped out a caused that Belgium s war More the rock, and! which he had killed at close range, welghed probably over 500 pounds. e was nine feet six inches in length. The boys ran s carried him to camp. There they sang {and danced around him while the |alive. | skinners removed the skin. £ x % % 'EXT day we killed one more, and | the morning after that we started | When about six miles from the starting point, Mr. Hill saw two large lons fighting, and at his shot they disappeared into a reed bed. As we came up, other lions were spotted flling down from the plains to the rushes, seventeen in all! We decided to “gallop them,” shoot as many as we could before they made for cover, and then put the dogs | after them. To the surprise of every one, the lions did not stop In cover, but crossed the donga and headed straight out upon th's plains. One large lioness stopped to fight, but she was shot while the riders made a wide detour around her, going on after the others. 1 started to cut across the semi-cir- cle in which they were now running There was a lot more firing and the bunch split, two lionesses and five grown cubs running my way. At three hundred yards they drop- ped In the grass so that only their ears were visible. The others were killed or run off into cover, and then all the hunters came over to where I waited. We rode a few steps nearer to the lions, which then got up and tried to escape. We galloped about three hundred yards, when they all turned and faced us. The two lion- esses went down with the first volley from seven guns. The cubs started away, but soon faced us agaln. Just as we were dis. mounting, one of the cubs started in, three hundred yards away, and was about | icks under him and | was discovered the city bad two hun- dred thousand inhabitants and was the world. Its people wove woolen cloth, silks and velvets, and, excepting the cathedrals, the Cloth: Hall of Ypres was the finest building of the middle ages. It was used by the Drapers' Guild as its warehouse and exchaugo. Another great structure was the ca- thedral bullt about the same time, | and connected with the Cloth Hall the Nleuwerck, begua the same l’earl that the Mayflower came to anchor near Plymouth Rock. All of these bufldings and others were rich paintings, stained glass | and valuable archives. The' itself, reduced by time to, elghteen thourand, or less than one- tenth of its former size, was a bewu- | titul relic of artistic antiquity, proud | of its history, but famous chiefly for| Saturday, more than forty thousand pounds of butter changed hands. | At the close of the war the city was | deader than Sodom after Lot and his | two loving daughters, woll after sun- up, ran off to Zoar. The Cloth Hall and cathedral were one mass of ruina, | The houses had vanished, and the ! There are now four hundred ceme- | | thousand graves. rode by the cemetery where are buried four | bodtes folind in shell holes. thousand of ths crosses above them | lare printed the words: “In memory | |of an unknown Britlsh soldfer.” IMEDIATELY after II the work of reconstructing Ypres | was commenced. The first thing was to create a bright spot in the wilder- | ness. This was done by clearing the public square and flling it with flo ers and shrubs surrounded by grass! and planting two rows of trees along the Boulevard Malon, which leads trom it. At the samo time the people came back. Wooden structures of | difterent types, from single-room sheds to temporary town hails, | sprang up over night until in August. 1921, more than twelve thousand had been erected. In the meantime brick nd other materfals became available | the armistice | houses commenced. During the war| America | something ltke four thousand houses | bufldings. | throug? | etone. A A A R ATS CTHATAD T A AT AIAD T DD DD DD in Ypres wero destroyed, and most of thece have now been rebuflt. But we can see this much better by getting into our German war- bullt 1fmousine, with our Belgian sol- dier Jules at the wheel, and golng over the city as it is today. We stop the machine in the main street that runs through the town. There are huge piles of bricks and stone on both rides of the Atreet and we can see new houses extencing on and on. At our right is @ yard where a dosen utonecutters are hewing out building Llocks and over the way the car- in | penters are putting up.the rafters for new roofs of red tiles. Huge wagons loaded with bricks and other bullding material, hauled by big Belgian horses, pass by us, and the sound of the hammer and saw i3 broken only | by the tooting of the horn of that rubber-neck motor bus, fllled with its produce market, in which, on some | American tourists, which is just com- | ing in. Now Jules starte the machine with | a crank and we -ride along through he streets, turning this way and that, eeing new structures everywhers go- ing up. Our hearts burn as we pass | the rulned cathedral and Halles with thelr acres of still falling walls. Parts | |scaffolding and the masons have again from the face of the earth. Now we have left the city and are riding about over the country, We pads collections of portable villages which at the time of | | the armistice were in ruins. one-story | town was a “shell-swept graveyard” [of them are already surrounded by teries scattered over the salient, md,utknod to make reparations, but u‘L they contain two hundred and fity | #eems Impossible that they can uuc-‘hs called Tho other day I|coed; for the ruins look like those of | confederation, of Poelcapelle, | Timgad or Pompeil. and in places no |hundred different thousand | better than the remains of old Car-|ties which have combined On threo | thage, which was wiped again and | 1st THIS TWELVE-YEAR-OLD BOY INTO “LONG MAX.” A LITTLE BROTHER OF “BI THE GUN WITH WHICH THE GERMANS BOMBAR HAS NO TROUBI CLIMBING BERTHA,” DED DUN- KIRK FROM MOERE, TWENTY-EIGHT MILES AWA thousand private buildings have gone ' up and new public buildings number seven hundred or more * TCH of the work 13 being done by money raised by what might the national co-operative consisting of three co-operative socle- of July, 19%1, this had made building loans of more than one-half billion of francs and it th tssued 2 loan with lottery prizes, the | The 250 200 highest of which was $100,000. loan was fssucd in shares of francs par, at price of houses painted yellow and seo new |francs, making each sharc at the eur- bulldings golng up everywhere. red, each patch the tiled roof of a new farmhouse or new village. Every old house has a new roof and on soms of the roofs I see the figures 1920 or 1921 or 1922 painted or worked In with other tiles of black and blue. Red tn China is the sign of good luck. Tere in Belgium it is the sign of re- construction and it means thaut pros- perity is coming back to the neople. most of the houses are of brick or Nearly all have but one story with ridged roofs ending closs to the - devastation one and the construction of substantial | walls. It {s onl¥ in the larger towns that you see two and thres story Already more than forty could be built around the city. It was ! made of very heavy posts and elght|particular breeding time. or ten strands of heavy barbed wire. | only o objsct being to create and main- | they alone are sultablo | taln & quarantine district for the pur- pose of eradicating rever tick from | cattle. The fence was made espe- | clally strong and high to keep out | game that also carrzed the k. To give one an idea of the amount jof game, almost In sight of this, the {largest city in the country, very fre- not killed until within forty yards of | us. We counted up what had been killed that morning, a total of eleven It proved by night a record-break- ing day—fifteen killed and one caught Even though it was a record- breaking kill, our consciences were | quite clear, as the government was { very anxious for us to kill as many { of these lions in this territory as pos- sible. Our former record of twenty-seven | was equaled by the end of two weeks, |ana we hoped to make another kill in | the day remaining. The next morning found us out ear- 1y again. I saw a large male cheetah that looked like a lioness, his spots inot being visible in the early light. We put the dogs on, and he was fight- ing hard for his life when Mr. Rainey | shot him to save the dogs. We started up the donga, and the next find was a big leopard. He ran 2 quarter of a mile up the donga Into a large reed bed, and here he held his ground stubbornly. After a couple of hours we called off the dogs and set fire to the rushes, which forced him out and he fell to Mr. Hill's gun. We went across and struck the Athl river five miles above the station, and no sooner had we begun hunting than we saw large crocodiles in the deep holes. As we feared a crocodile would catch some of the dogs, we left the cover, called the hunt off and went straight across to the station. * X ok % CANNOT remember ever 'having been thrown into contact with a better lot of fellows, and all expressed regrets that the hunt was so soon over, and that we must part. A true statement of the abundance of game in British East Africa would seem almost incredible. Nairobl, the capital of the country, put up the very strongest fence that z ! | quently game would be stampeded at | night, either by lions or other causes, 1and run into this fence In such num- bers as to demolish it completely, knocking down and breaking every strand of wire for miles in a single night, I never saw the fence intact, dur- ing the five years I was in the coun- try, for more than a few days at & time. When I left, there might just as well have been no fence at all. In the daytime the fence would turn gebra, but hartebeest and im- palla and the larger gaselle would clear it with perfect ease and it was, 1 judge, six to seven feet high. The amount of game that may be seen from the train as one goes from Mombasa, the seaport town, to Nair- obl, is almost unbetievable. The dis- tance is about 300 miles and the last three or four hours of the journey great herds of game are visible on both sides of the track as the train passes. The best of authorities esti- mated the number of head that might be plainly seen from one seat at the car window at that time at 50,000' On my first trip up from the coast 1 heard the passengers shouting in the coaches ahead, and upon looking out of the window I saw & large gi- raffe with his neck entangled In the rather low-hanging telegraph wires, which held him captive while the train passed. Nowhere in America can cattle be seen from a train in any such num- bers. Game is much more abundant in the open plains then in & bush country. The Uganda raflroad crosses Kapit{ and Athi plains, the last forty miles before reaching Nairobi, and it is while tra- yersing these plains that game is seen in such adundance. This game, however, Is mostly of the common varieties, and'as a rule not/ much sought after by sportsmen. Heads of all these varicties may easily be se- cured on a trip after game that is scarce and more desirable. ¥ % % ¥ HE government is proving far- sighted. 1t has set aside two large game reserves, called the northern and southern game reserves. In neither of these i{s hunting permitted. Naturally 1t stands to reason that as long as these reserves are maintained. game will be very abundant. These reserves cover vast areas of diversified country, and even though ro hunting has been done in them since they were established, there is no more game there than in the country where hunting is permitted, but if the time ever comes that too much game should be shot out in the open territory, these reserves will come into play and show their worth, as It will give the game now overstocked in the reserve a chance to move across the line into new pas- tures. Another precaution taken By the gov- ernment as & protection to game is the fact that the natives are not allowed any kind of firearms. There !s no cloged season for saooting l ! l | | | | The | rent rate of exchange cost $20 or less. {landscepe 19 spotted with patches of { The shares bear 4 per cent interest ! and pay no income tax. Suppose our government should recognize a loan | without tax, in which we could buy |4 per cent bonds worth §26 for $20 | aplece, each bond to be numbered, and each carrying a chance in a series of lottery drawings by which, 1 we hold a lucky number, we might ' be pald back our money and win all | the way from $100 to $100.000—would not those bonds cell? They are sell- ing in Belgium and those aiready i sued are far above par. Other simi- lar loans are proposed. They prob- ably will be greedily grabbed But Jules has stopped his auto- animals having no As a rule, nyway, 28 rophies. The females of most varieties do not have | horns, and of the rarer varicties a license allows the privilege of killing males only. It would be almost imp: in the cou the males are sho ossible even By the| assoclation | mobile at T {1age near 31 to get out. {to a turnst | frane, we enter woods o |tow 2 trail to the “Long Moere,” a Iittle brother of the * | Bertha” that seat shells sevent | miles into Paris. This German was used to fire upon Dunkirk on the glish channel, twenty-cight miles away. It is fourteen inches in df- ameter and its barrel is €0 large th of twelve a otn- We do so a where by franc to crawl | graph trouble in doing s { forty-two irches {dation v alled v be raised fon a pivot. {gun which and flash ish fire. dugout, which was proba munition, I fou lace. He has at low price of fine work whic | cost only brought hlmsel telling us |nad required < i Leavi ‘0( barbed and structio tank upt |away by {three in t {go by windmills ibrick or wood, |arms abour. ¢ Don Quixote ar ‘windmill He | well as te | here are uscd to grind corn. and are |operated trom the tarmsteads nearb:: th: towers « :hflr red hink gut with rowing the me for a eclentist to enumerate all of | the varieties of game to be found| fn this great country, and for that matter 1 would find it impossible to tabulate the varieties that I have killed, as I am not at all sure of the proper names of many of them. The more common varieties that| are to be found are hartebeest, called kongoni by the natives; wildebeest or gnu, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's gazelle, impalla and zebra. These varieties outnumber all others and | are found in almost every locality in the country where there are open plains. Water buck, cland, baeh! buck and reed buck are varieties that | are well distributed, but are not| plentiful enough to be classed as common game. All of the bucks in the country, both large and small, possibly ex- cepting the gazclle, are said to be- long to the antelope family. Elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, buffals and giraffe are the big game of the country, and do not confine themselyes 19 any certain localities, but live and thrive wherever the nat- ural conditlons suit them. There are many varletles that have a certain range and stick to it, hence are found only In given areas. Among the best known varietles that confine themselves to certain dis- tricts are greater and lesser kudu, roan and sable antelope, Rolert's and Raincy's gazelle, oribl, topi, oryx (two species), Newman's harte- beeste, Grevy's zebra, gerenuk, bongo and situtunga. There are also several varieties of tiny little buck, some of which are no larger than a rabbit and have lit- tle horns, not more than an inch or two long. Among the most common of the small varieties are dlk-dik, steinbuck and duiker. There are sev- eral other small varieties, which are quite common, and as a rule fairly casy to capture. MONG the larger varieties of buck are the eland, bongo, greater kudu, rosn and sable antelope. All of these equal the size of our clk, and the eland and bongo are much larger. The eland is the largest of the African antelopes. Occasionally one finds & bull that weighs close to a ton. These bulls are 8o heavy that they can not run fast, and several times I have galloped up slongside one when he was running his best. On one occasion 1 galloped along- stde one while mounted upon a small mule and struck him with my riding whip. I saw Mr. Rainey gallop one down to a trot and drive him into camp. They are besutiful animals and easily domesticated. The bongo is nearly as large and one of tha hardest Epccimens to pro- cure. He lives in dense forests and at a high altitude. e is a striking individual., red in color, with white stripes running all the way around the body. Col. Roogevelt, these specimens. (Coprright, 1023) 1 believe, sccured most of | EE t ‘ near thoese low bricis. ‘along thd roadside cut off by th |Shel|s We atween rows young trees = nted. Farther on we zo by a dead thicket that loo':s |Mke parts of Ga In Panas when the dam had drowned out ta tropical wood That thicket was once a beaut orest which was de |stroyed by the shells. During their occupation of Belglura the Germa cut down timber wor several N dred millions of do! They oftc | cut 01d and young, and in some pla |even the orchards were ruined |Hatnaut, Liege and , wooded areas were destroyed. Riding on to the northeast, we through the ancient city of Bruges |1t once vied with Ypres. having 150.- 000 inhabitants, although now it not more than one-third of that si It is a city of canals. It Is near surrounded by them and the wate | ways run through the town. A new | ship canal six miles long connec {it with Zeebrugge was opened 1907, and you will remember that tic latter port on the North sea wus a German submarine base during the war. It was badly damaged by the {bombardment of the allied airmen, and the Germans sank large cranes in the docks, as well as twelve ships and other small craft in the basins In order to clear the harbor the canal has been blocked and the water pumped out. Bruges itself was not |damaged to any extent, and stcamers now come into the harbor. Another great canal city is Ghent, through which we pass on our ride back to Brussels. It is cut by water- ways which divide it into thirtecn islands connected by fifty-elght bridges. This is a quaint old Flem- ish town whose medieval buildings, great cathedral and belfry, and ma | museums are the delight of the tour- |1t~ About the time of Columpus it was the most Important cf Yders, and it agaln has on league boots and is rapidly growing With {ts suburbs, its population is {now more than 200,000 and it is move than sixteen miles in circumferen A wide ship canal deep enough for all ocean-going merchant vessels con- nects the town with the Scheldt. Tn 1813 more than twelve bundred ships, with a tonnage of over one million tons, came into Ghent, and although the German troops when they treated destroyed a great part of the canal and obstructed its navigation by sinking five torpedo boats and all the canal boats and dredges, it ix agaln practically open and in 1920 it was entered by more than five hun- dred vessels of almost four hundred thousand tons. Ghent stands next to Antwerp as the chlef port of Belgium. It is noted for its imports of cotton which come from the United States by’ the tens of thousands of tons, and it has great cotton and linen mills yhich have more than fifteen hun sand spindiers and about ALty looms. ("carp-nm'- World Travets, eopright 108 ¥rank G. Carpenter.” 1 va-