Evening Star Newspaper, May 5, 1900, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY 5, 1900-24 PAGES. A pretty little green and white foulard frock for a thirteen-year-old Iasste. heavy cream lace, edged with stitche mm, having a corded silk crown, and is dressed with white roses and knots of black velvet rately Le ribbon. rimmed. Ww SILVER SPANGLES| Both Gowns and Hats Glisten With Them Now. —— CONTRAST BETWEEN OLD AND NEW Fancies That Delighted More Than a Century Ago. DAME FASHION —_— IN REVIEW n for The Evening Star. “L want evening gown, madam, that will be elegant and not showy, yet mark me as a woman of exquisite taste.” And madam proceeds to design a beflounced and beruffied costume over which spangles are thrown in profusion. “Please show me one of your large plc- ture hats," orders my lady at her milliner’s, and the umbrella-like affair, literally cov- ered with spangles, is trotted out by a pret- ty maiden. “Yes,” ks my lady, after eritical exam’ I like the theme, but the not to my Make spangied with silver, spangled with sliver, aste that he robes of diamonds, which got lost under foot. Joxephine's Eton Jacket. y a bit of silvered tinsel quivering by a single tiny thread im the heart of a lace ones purpose and is much more ¢ inty. “Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed in fancy,” was old Polonius’ counsel to Laertes. The old Dane's advice has gathered no moss in th ing centuries. * ¢ © rich, not gaudy: For the apparel oft proclaims the man (and woman)— is no less true now than then. It is true, wo, that the oddities and eccentricities of modes were no more pronounced then than now. In Polonius’ day the paYements were nothing to brag of, and the street cleaning forces were no more to be depended upon than now; but the women who wore trained It is rather claho- ands of white taffeta. The hat is a attempt to aid the m ipal thoroughfares. bu vread, and when ra wore could be i ono n of hed them, cr, u d from the they ide till, their . wits again en- Two Fat 1 Words. “Empire and imperialicm are yrds that non the lips now, a upled the of “Nap tion of idea 1 intere Some one thunder. st “imperialism and Napoleons t meet Waterloos. My Jady la mode remembers that Napoleon had ‘The onting suit photographed here 1s one of the most attractive styles designed this season. It fs of Oxford mixture, a rather light gray, is heavily stitched, and the coat has the effect of & Norfolk fucket. A seariet necktie and gray felt hat with white rilk scarf complete a very Beat costume. a _wite, whom he made ss of the French. Josephine, of France, was an elegant dresser. never wore the same garment twice. Her stockings, at $5 a pair, were worn but once—for three hours only. Her jewels were the wonder of the world, the seandal of the empire. Her s were magnificent. To this day they r her title—empire ire and Impe with zown: fom. From assocta- ndous dream of to healthy An ideai- there grows—what? mpire rfashic issued her edict, and empire gowns will be the rage this coming season. Not x ly such as Josephine wore, however; for only a lunatic would attempt that. Lavish as Josephine was in expendi- . costly as were the she adore Were parsimoniously us for the skirts of her gowns were narrow and cling- ing and they outlined the form most scan- P of lace and ing held suffi- many rs ago y at the age of ninet 2 writer that her “coming-out” dress was of four widths of soft “tabby’ trim- med with rare old lace laid on smoothly, and that under this clinging stuff she- wore a single Swiss mus!in petticoat, with an edge of narrow thread lace, all guiltless of starch. This remarkable gown came to her ankles, and the waist struck her just under the arms, with scarcely enough above to hold it to her body. A Real Picture Dress. Josephine, Empress of the French, whose home was the historic Tuilleries, once wore a coaching gown like the picture. Idealized, the same gown is worn today, and can be found in every shop on the bargain counter. There will be the fasten- ing up the side of the front, the rows of stitching in the back, the buttons, the clinging sides, The young lady who dons it will wear with it a shirt waist, and the same kind of a ribbon belt, which will who told artistically shorten the waist in the back and lengthen it in front. Eton jackets are the rage. Josephine wore one a century ago. It had sleeves that fell over the knuckles, and its fit was something to give a dressmaker of today men‘al strabismus, but it was worn by an ecame the rage in her day, With {t she wore a long-tailed skirt of “prune-colored velvet lined with yellow and the yellow velv f cluster monds, when the er sumably the * ing up) nee to the skirt an the jacket. Some irreverent w ave no re- gard for the upon a throne” s ame when Jo- sephine had to hold up the keeper or the imperial € quer every time she annexed a new gown. It is scarcely right perhaps me her for her extravagance, for n incited her to it. “Madame la hale he said one 4 to a lady of court, “your cl n it a good many me k i iperb; I have imes,” and after that ta Marechale had no alternative nark Meant a new ‘cloak’ or leave Slippers and Gloves. they wore gloves that it doth happen that some arms are more likely in appear- During the empire old writer, “and many ladies are moved to believe that the covered arm, although not . IS more suggestive, since oncealment doth the more wh the im- agination.” They wore red slippers with and cloth If a woman Rainy Day Dress. : without stockings as any other way. Mad- ame Brabant, writing of Madame Tallien, in whose home Josephine first Napo ys that at one of the Francatl balls Madame Tallien wore an Athevian gown, and on her bared fect were sandals laced with ribbon up to the knee, where were gold circlets worn as garters, tne Stocking is of palest pink, and the bewitching nigh-he It is quite the thin ‘or people to go to church in a r: re and even in bi- eycle costum e out on wh and the spirit so moves them. At some suburban chure! along the shady lanes and bywayg that bicyelers frequent will be found conVfnient for wheels, and th up-to-date div ly invite’ plea. ur seekers to rest awhile under the sacred roof. old Rainy Daixies. This, too, was a fashion a century ago— yes, longer than that in the past—for it is in the “Lady's Magazine.” printed during nch revolut n, that a writer c plains bitterly of the to attend church in their r querulous spirit he irreverent in au or although lor that the ladies’ ered with bonnets ¢ ition of w ing “Riding hi: nce of dt custom heads s hats in ¢! as elsewhere, yet I do not conc that this tends to the wearing of riding a part of the riding habit, and which do not differ in appearance from the round hats worn by men, but never worn by men in church. fon holden by the Spe papers that we ought to ke much as possible out of the are so many other plac opera, the theaters, ball: tus, routs and hurricanes, where we may be as fashionable and as properly fashionable as we please, that I would be for reserving a plain simplicity and a decency in garb for our places of religious worship.” We copy empire customs as well as fash- ions, it would seem; for a sparkling French I am of the opin- in one of his p fashions as ator ‘This is a charming model of the extremely fashionable friaged silk bodice. A sllver-white ground with figures in shaded and varied tones of blue makes it very becoming, and the style, having a folded girdle and bolero jacket, adds grace to the garment as a whole, writer says of that period when everybody in the official and financial,world of Paris vied in the splendor of their entertainments, just exactly what might be said of Wash- ington in the height of the season: “Persons of large fortune stillzinduige their petty vanity by entertaining crowds of pegple. There is a mania for having a great many coaches at one’s door, ® great many guests at one’s table, a meb in’ one’s drawing room, for having itvsaid s'ali Paris was there,’ for extorting from Ahose who pass by the rows of lighted windows, the ad- miring cry, ‘how gtana! How happy the folk in there must be!’ And yet everybody at these parties yawns; and Is half dead of boredom, and if it were not for the sorry conceit of being ableto say ‘Yesterday T was at thé Duc de W ball,’ ‘I dined with M. de R.,’ every one Would Be too delighted to stay at home.” $ Lions and Tigérs. We use a word today which was born of the empire fact, two words. One is when referring to one who is dis- tinsuished in any field of art or science or or a waman who has made a social success. The other is “tiger,” meaning the figure who si th folded arms and a de- meanor, in my lady’s cartinge, with the ap- pearance of being “It.” In the early days and rapid till they: of their attire, thelr ribbor enervated the ving had thought ont men, s and equipages, the bouquet of their wines, verses to my lay’s eyes and sonnets to her instep, there grew up a set of women who were termed the “Iionnes They rode like Arabs, they drank like fish, fenced, wielded a cane, shot with pistols, smoked like a factory chimney, handied an Josephine’s Coaching Dress. oar with the ease of a college eight, and otherwise did everything that a woman should not do according to the narrow ccn- ception of the day, and disdzined the ef- feminate men who gave the lie to their name. It became the habit to give one’s woman friend the epithet which seemcd best o suit her nature. One called the “leopard,"’ another a and so on through ‘the animal list. s_they were termed “Lionnes,”” Their cavaliers addressed them familiarly as “ma Lionne,” “ma Savage,” and gave the foot- man the title “‘mon Tigre.” because he was the natural defender of ‘“‘ma Lionne.” The Early Bachelor Girl. These women were not the “fast set,” par- ticularly, but were tired of the conventio alities of a hollow sham called ‘society, and struck for larger liberty. They were the forerunners of the “liberated” or bach- elor girl of today—she who crickets and bowls, who plays tennis and rides a wheel, who races “her own stable and manages her own ranch, who goes in for politics and philanthropy, and, when the spirit moves, entertains lke ‘a queen and charms like a siren. From this empire age of dress we get a glimpse of the expansiveness of the ten- dency toward s also. One writ speaks of a p' hmere as “divine” in quality. One might almost imagine that it was a Washington school girl, apostro- phizing a bolt of ribbon as “grand,” or a senatorial pyrotechnic display as “lovely.” A writer of the empire speaks of a noted general as a “lovely fighter,” and of a cock fight he makes a woman say that her fa- vorite ‘" most sweet in the manner that pas he put to rout his cowardly opponent.” It is not possible that a Connecticut avenue young lady could have plagiarized the cen- tury ago belle whe e last Friday told tn a strect car of “th which Dido bit at th fright let the poor | The rainy day dress js not a new Idea. It rus old one, simplified and Queen Victoria might have worn dre: which illustrates the sensible s of her girlhood. It was far from be- as elegant as some of the dri of looday are, but it was an advance on the fs simply a hid. idealized the White musiins, the bare necks and arms, and the low ‘slippers which preceded it, and which w ns, The big hat ved for the pachydermo at the opera, and the w as been taken out of the balloon sleeves, but the idea is the same. Bext of All Nov One must admit, too, that the golf and dresses of the present are a v ment of those of the day when Vi toria had not yet dreamed of the diadem An Empress Ball Dress. that was to displace her befenthered broad- brimmed hats. = r A Jong dead poet once expressed his dis- gust at everchanging fashions as follows: “Now dressed in a cap; now naked im non Now loose in a ‘mob,’ now clese in a ‘Joan; ‘Without handkerchiet now, and now buried in ruff, Now plain as a Quaker, now all of a puff. Now a shape in neat stays, now a slattern in jumps; Now high in French heels, now low in your pumps; Now monstrous in hoop, now trapish in walking With your petticoats clung to your heels like a maulkin, Like the cock on the tower, that shows you the weather, You are hardly the same for two days to- gether.’ : After all, however, when one has reviewed the styles that have intervened since Jo- sephine’s extravagance and intrigues hel] to topple a throne, it is quite evident that of all ages this is the greatest of all the world of fashion; never were the devotees of dress more becomingly gowned than now. ISABEL WORRELL BALL. ———— He (as the clock strikes 12)—“This is the hour that graveyards yawn.” She—“Well, the: re New York ‘World, Here ey: yume ty LATE PARIS MODES Virtues and Style of Khaki Cloth Extolled. NEW TAILOR-MADE TAFFETA GOWNS | Chantilly Lace Again Worn, and Shows Its Age. = OTHER LEADING FANCIES —— Special Correspon nee of The Evening Siar. PARIS, April |, 1900, Outing gowns of all sorts are made of the inevitable khaki cloth. The strength of the fabric and its ability to conceal the effects of weather, wear and grime are qualiti that cannot fail to recommend it for use in the making of outing gowns. Bicycle costumes of the khaki cloth are very sim- ple. They have the plaits artfully disposed behind and the lower part of the skirt os- tentatiously hemmed and stitched. The skirts are a good length, with no unseemly display of ankles. The jackets are, of course, short. According to the taste of the wearer, they vary from the Eton and bo- lero jackets to the little coats with straight, round basques. Golf gowns are made with stitched bands across the bottom of the skirts, sometimes brought around and up the side. The jackets are made with basques and button up the front in double-bri ted fashion. The tabbed fronts are sometimes seen fin- tshed off with handsome stitchings. The gay red coats so popular a short time ago ave altogether disappeared; no really smart woman wears them. In Riding Coats, The jackets worn with riding habits have much more of the coat effect. A narrow band of stitching may be seen ‘ound the lower part of the skirt, which is only of moderate length. and outlining the sleeve wrist or on the lapels, but the most happy effects are accomplished with no ornamen- tation at all. A smooth derby hat should crown the head of the modish equestrienne. I noticed quite a pretentious bicycling ¢ tume of cloth on a rider in the Bois a few It was not simple in its deco- far as the jacket was concerned. Walking and Cycling Costumes. Tho coat was made with a stitched girdle and with epaulets and flat collar of cloth a shade darker than the gown. The sleeves were stitched at the shoulder and at the wrist, the open revers having a facing of Ught cloth bordered by fanciful rows of silk stitching. Modifications of the bolero jacket are still seen on gowns sent out from fashionable shops. One of those worn at the Auteuil races by a modish dame had long tabs of cloth in front, which were fastened to the polnted girdle of stitched cloth by small crystal buttons. The gown was of gray, Outdoor Dresses for School Girls. made with a double box plaited skirt, the plaits put on both back and front. Around the skirt straps of cloth were applied four rows deep. The revers of the jacket were handsomely painted, while the collar above it was crossed with rows of silk stitching. A tie of lace came around the high collar and was tied in front in a loose knot. New Hair Dressing. There are some slight changes to be noted in methods of dressing the hair. The coiffure is softly waved and falls into a slight part at one side. The hair is brought low on the forehead, and there is quite a There 1s no greater novelty in dress hats this season than the flounced brin are draped to frame the face, and they prove hat for a young girl is a combination of muslin, lace and taffeta ribbon, with big sprays becoming to all who wear then This char eyed daisies arranged among the soft folds of the trimming. suggestion of a bang. It is customary to train the hair to form a few soft and cling- ing tendrils on the neck. For the ornamen- tation of the hair are tortoise sh worn rather hi leaves a ters of fruit si seen upon the spring milline Verily this son of fruit. The mil- A Fetching Riding Habit. Unery of the year has been turned into miniature vineyards, orchards ami berry Patches. The head of the fashionable wo. man is as heavily loaded with grapes as that of a Greek Bacchanalian. Panne, which is still popular for full dress toilets, is, shown in printed patterns, the most desirable of which are those em. bossed with empire wreaths. Petticoat Frill: The Frenchwoman is the most fastidious woman in the world in regard to petti- coats. Under a very simple gown one dis. covers a petticoat of the most luxurious sort aS madame lifts her skirt to swish across the street. Vertical tucks are used on underskirts to give that slenderness to the upper part of the figure which fashion now demands, while the material flaring at the knee gives the desired modish full. Ress to the skirt above. Hand-painted skirts are the height of luxuriousness. The skirts are of the most delicat of silk, intended, of course, for € ear, and are trimmed with flounces or plaitings of chiffon or lac such skirt was of pale blue, with of blush rx painted above the White danc- ing pe owe much Iful use of the up 2 lower part of the s ass of filmy flounc with taflor-made gowns the and petticoats in one piece because the combination ol y of the b of Fr ok or Swiss corset nd at the stout figur that long sash ends w yorn with most of the summer jackets, even if short and of the 2 | and bolero variety, will be given an effect of extension by the use of tabs and sharp- pointed ends. Fashions for Doggie. Just at present the-French poodle is the favorite dog of society. The wardrobes of these animals continue to increase in weirdness. The clipped portion of the body is taken out for an airing. The cc of leather. with a silver monogran of arms at one side. coat to the with silver wh also n grammed. The ets the yer mals are of leather hung with bells, that cause him, lady of Banbury Cr by music wherever hi ions doggie is and lace, with anklets t the top of teh foolish litt ™ him and see that his wardrobe ie alw irreproachable condition. Revival of Chan ly. to that of time. the la and blow richne: Transparent fabrics will have the ence for summer wear. muslins, voiles and similar matet are decorated with broker ed stripes, flights of birds flowers in garlands and vineli Taffeta gowns are to be th fashion for visiting and They spots, effect ad tings, but as only skillful ftswomen can apply will have the added advantag irreproachable fit. Flowered the Marie Antoinette style are novelties, and very charming made up in desi consequent hions of Louis period. Many of these gowns hav than a suggestion of the pannier sides, so that, ip spite mises contrary, thei duction of the pannie them, of the the ————— see A good polish for fur half a pint each of vine linseed off and turpentin in a bottle and shake wel furniture with a pie polish with a soft, 4 ture is madr Mix Apply to it duste @ **4 Perfect Food’’ BAKER’S BREAKFAST: COCOA “Known the worl and caterer.” —Di Hygienic Gazette. DORCHESTER, MASS. Established 1780. is covered by a small coat when the dog ens modeled upon the ** Prolongs Life’” ming of ox- ts are coat ive udded straps is Nar of gold set with The bow that is very often hekl there by a jewe Worth a small fortune. The animal has a special maid, whose duty If fs to care for n Tt has been pointed out to me that we may expect a revival of popularity for Chantilly lace. Happy is the woman who has some heirlooms of this beautiful ma- terial, for it is considered the height of chic to wear lace a trifle yellowed. and this tint no manufacturer's art can give equal ats are trimmed with fronts depend for their e of the trimming. prefer- This will include They and butterflies, height of the afternoon wear. will be tailor made and given all fi antages of tuckings and craftsmen they mos CATHERINE TALBOT. t with the! Received the high = ments from the me ‘ss tioner, the nurse, and intelligent housekeeper gy Walter Baker & Co. iss. : ar, spirits of wine, r ) the of old flannel and fering women for generations. raught, and you wouldn’ -Marriage for Women Marriage is a serious affair for a woman. It involves many new and serious duties for which none but a well woman is fitted. Too often a young woman, who is weak in the organs which make her a wo- man, enters into wifehood, without considering the consequences. Then her troubles multiply, and she becomes a burden to herself, and to her husband. Her children, if she have any, are sickly and puny. The relation that began so happily, ends disastrous Ns is a way to avoid all these troubles. Wine of Cardui, that wonderful medicine which builds up and stréngthens the womanly organs, fits a wo- man for the married state. It is no experiment. It has been curing suf- It is a remedy that always does the same thing—builds up the weakened female organs and makes menstruation painless and regular. A trial of But there Wines Cardul will convince any woman of its wonderful power. Dr. W. W. Ward of Concord, Ark., wrote Sept. 3d, 1899: practice in female disorders and have the Wine. You will soon notice the improvement. It is the made for every female disorder. “I have used Wine of Cardui in my had brilliant results with it.” Try best medicine My health was not good when I was Mrs. In cases giving, eymptoms, Big Spring, N. C., Oct. 1, 1899. married two and a half years ago, and since then it has been much worse. My physician says I have displacement and ulceration of the womb. I suffer terribly at my monthly eriods. Lately I have been using Wine of Cardui and Thedford’s Black- 't believe there could be such improvement in So short a time. I suffer so much less, am very much stronger and am gain- ing flesh. BLANCHE M. ALLISON. requiring special directions, address, Ladies’ Advisors Depart- Chattanooga Medicine ‘Company, ‘Chattanooga, Tenn.