Evening Star Newspaper, March 24, 1900, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAROH 24, 1900-24 PAGES, he foundation of des mauve this charming Easter hat. It is dressed with taffeta, and haz one mammoth cluster of violets } i CANVASAND CHANTILLYLACE | 1 | ar Was given quite ly bows of white. . shaped into rounded was edged with a joubled mousseline de narrow frill of the was of bi the softest whic open arranged fell gracefully and naturally to show the na: Tow in which the skirt was laid un- derr The skirt was trimmed with a formed an openwork pattern resembling embro ry. the band of guimpe being nr or five Inches wide. ‘The pointed cut with a rounded vest of b 1 acoilar of the same over The buttons were of gold. a lain. of dla very fragile gowns were worn a daint ¥ trimmed with ‘oductien by the re is no doubt t tendeney of sugRE the arm with A flaring piece PLAITED SPRING BLOUSE. Rawdon and the Becky Sharp types, where the entertainers depend on What they win to replenish their exchequers for the com- ing year, are fairly swarming. So I should advise traveling Americans who encounter extremely affable and would-be sociable swells at Monte Carlo to beware, for the Rawdon Crawleys are dangerous as well as costly friends. Louis Seize Again. One who claims to be quite infallible in the matter of fashion predictions tells me that the smartest of the new gowns will follow the Louis Seize style. Skirts will be a trifle shorter and full below the knees. Tho best skirts are and will be ined with moire satin, these fabrics being also the correct things for the making of petti- ceats. One cannot but be amused at the revenge taken by the ari ratic dames of the old Faubourg in originaiing the Loubet hat. Tt is a satire on the unfortunate affair at Auteull in whieh Count Chrisfiani, in_his enthusiasm for mor y, struck President Loubet, the repres of republican- ism, on the crown of h d. The Lou- bet models show the collapsed section of the hat at one side just where Christlani's cane smashed the chapeau of the august president of France. One pretty modet of this shape shown in the shops 1s of white straw, stitched with black, one side higher than the other. White and gray speckled wings trim the hat. It has achieved al- Teady a great popularity with the monar- chial set, and, to their amuscment, is even being adopted by some of the women of the republican clique; who have not yet realized its significance. Panne Theater Bodice. The theater bodice of the moment {8 made of panne, a delightful model being cf pink, with inserted cream lace down the front and narrow bands of the pink panne piped with white satin. The col- lar is half of lace and half of piped panne. A very charming combination is the use of the tight-fitting corselet with the bolero Jacket, the outline of each being made as marked as possible. The bolero usually flares a little, so that the grace of the tight-fitting corselet {s more noticeable than it would be if it melted gradually into the colors of the gown instead of belng em- phasized by black or something of that sort. The spring bodices are all more or less plaited—the plaits of the narrow sort that look like pipings. They are put upon some waists in V-shaped bands, on others in ver- ines, but seldom in the all-round hori- Toque of Hgbt blue fancy straw, pinched up at two-inch intervals into simulated tucks. only trimmit = = | | isa fine jet buckle, the most liberal member of the anti-bird killing societies, who think that woman 1s discarding bird trimming. for there are about cight of the feathered creatures upon | the gown. Eutterflies as ornaments we | | have had, but the use of birds is a novelty | which cannot hope to win very great ap- artful thou: n socie for the ub © trimmed with rows of silk braid, opened over pPlaited arrangement of Kk 2 very rudimentary puff. Un- sik were arranged rows of the ck silk braid, so that it ‘as trimmed and below by rows of braid. of the m Startling evening dresses seen behind or before the footlights has just been completed for one of the actresses at the Vaudevilles. It is of white tulle Spotted with black, the tunic made with many tiny plaits being edged with a nar- row ruching. The underskirt, made to flare about the edge by the use of many tny Plaits on its surface, was bordered with a band of the ruching. The bodice was cut | very low and draped witha scarf of rose- colored mc side to fall over the bodice to the waist, where {t was caught by a loose knot. From the waist the scarf fell to the bottom of the seline de sote, draped at the | EMBROIDERED CANVAS GOWN. tion as dress trimmings would speedil lead to thelr extinction. sf Lent, of course, has brought the festivi- ties of the smart set to a temporary close. A great many of the favhionable folk are, | of course, away in the south. At Monte Carlo I hear that smart little dinners are very much in vogue, followed by card: | where a good deal of gambling is done in a quiet way and fn circles in which one would not lock for it. Indeed, I am told that the | ie ee ee zontal fashion. Often just above the strap- ed of loose bands of the mousseline de ped band which trims the bodice a vest ailing loosely over the atm. On the cor. |Of finer plaits of the material will be in- si » appear fluttering to | Serted. t d seat over the Skirt j Lace Blouses Worn. 1 st a swallows, na~ Sipe hock to| Lace blouses are frequently to be seen BLUE STRAW HAT, 1% in the shops. The fact Is that only a good | quality of lace made up by a 00d maker jis worth having, and these are costly, sim- ple as they look. A very handsome one of ace was mede with a fine tucked vest © blue chiffon. The lower halves of th ng out from the elbow, were rows of chiffon iting and 1 ome cf the lace blouses ure square tabs of lace falling from below the girdle In basque fashion. Black | dis are not very often seen on the latest make, but one of prim- id in tiny tucks was an exccp- of the velvet’ alternatin; with the rows of tucks Hi Canvas is a very popular material J for | spring Kowns, charming effects being pos EMBROIDERED BODICE. of Chantilly lace and CATHERINE TALBOT. HOUSEHOLD HINTS The practical housekeeper of today who has a number of fine pictures to hang saves time and trouble and secures better Tesults by calling tn the practical picture hanger. This man has come to be a necessary ad- junct of all well-regulated art establish- ments. His ability to sound a wall or drive @ nail ‘vith precision Is but a minor feature of his calling. The day has passed when pictures are hung by rule and method, just so many feet from th rr, - distant trom ite neighbor, ‘Picture bases nowadays is an art that requires judicious sible with the use hand embroidery. BEER ERORBE BREE : BAKER’S : = BREAKFAST: COcoA * “Known the world over. «. + Received the highest in- y dorsements from the medica} gg practitioner, the nurse, and the intelligent housekeeper gy and caterer.” —Dietetic and Hygienic Gazette. a Walter Baker & Co, ui. a Taree DORCHESTER, MASS. Every Package Established 1780. a BEEBE RB BER BBR HEE = treatment fn order not to spoil the effect of work artistically conceived. As to the hanging of pictures in general, it is con- sidered best nowadays, says an authority in picture hanging, to hang black and white independently, and so with colored pictures. Paintings, of course, require the most care- ful consideration in the hanging, and even the professional makes mistakes at times. The pictures must be hung according to the Ughting of the room. In some rooms the window arrangements are such that it is next to impossible to hang a painting so as to get an effective lighting by day, and in others the artificial lighting arrangements are such that at night the painting ceases to be a picture and becomes a blur. To obviate these difficulties a trained and ar- tistic eye is a necessity. In general, de- clares this same man, the old rules about hanging certain kinds of pictures fn desig- nated places have died out. For instance, the old-time fruit and game piece, without which no well-regulated dining room was formerly complete, has been relegated to comparative obscurity. In its place has come the print suggestive of merriment and good cheer. Etchings after Dendy Sadler are especially populgr for dining rooms nowadays. and such titles as “Over Nuts and Wine” or “He's a Jolly Good Fellow” indicate the way that direction. tastes run in Small potatoes which are wasteful to peel and cook with larger ones should be sorted out and utilized in salad. Boil these small tubers with their skins on and while still warm peel and slice thin. Mince parsley and onion very fine, just a little of each, and strew over the potatoes in the salad bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over two or three tablespoonfuls of best olive oil, and moisten with weak vinegar, adding water if necessary, that {t may not be too sour, Potatoes may be used In com- bination with a number of things, such as Pickled beets, a fresh cucumber sliced, a Dutch herring, Cut up small, or a few sar- dines, minced. Only one of these things at a time, be it understood, and it should pe mixed with the potatoes before adding the fl and vinegar. The salad may be gar- nished with pickled beet, chopped fine and put diagonally across the dish, or simply cut in fancy shapes, and lettuce leaves. the little animal that En- ghsh poultry di have been selling for some time as a substitute for chicken and turk re now coming into high favor in Belgian hare: this country. While many a ill being imported from England, Californians and Arizor re breeding their own with ‘hese access, hborhood of eight pounds, and are col- common hares weigh In the ored much like the with a ruddier tinge. are at their best fro ruary 1. The ha rabbit like r ts, 1 to Fen ing them for the table, the principal thing is to have them young. This may be as certained by breaking the paw between the thumb and forefinger. If the defy the pre Ha should not ha longer than ter killing. Th may be roasted, fried or fricas —the same as young poultry as delicious ss ehicken when served in a salad with lettuce or celery and a mayon- naise dressing. While there are ginger snaps and ginger snaps, the snaps made in this fashion will be adjudged par excellence. Boil one pint of molass Orleans preferred. When cooked to milk-warm temperature beat into it one beaten egg, one scant cupful butter and lard mixed and melted and two level tablespoonfuls of ginger. Add one tea spoonful soda dissolved in one tablespoon- ful of warm water, then work in flour enough to ruil easily. If the dough can li mixed, then allowed to stand armhour be- fore rolling out, so much the better. Roll thin, cut in perfectly round shapes and bake quickly. Remove from the pan care- fully, rolling each ‘snap like a wheel over the molding board to smooth its edges, if at all uneven. When cold pack away in a tin box or stone jar closely covered. At a card party lately the salad was ap- propriately dressed to simulate the cards. It was served in a rectangular block, the top being covered with the whites of eggs, boiled hard and chopped fine. Chopped parsley then divided the surface into four equal parts. Hearts and diamonds cut from beets simulated the spots on two of the cards, while spades and clubs were repre- sented by black ripe olfves, also chopped. On froning day, when the irons won't heat fest enough to supply the demand, try plac- ing them on the pancake griddle set dowr close to the coals. The dripping pan turned over them will aid in conserving all the heat, even with doors and windows opened. Carrot Soup. Put two ounces of butter or dripping into a stewpan with an ounce or two of bacon, two small onions sliced, a stick of celery cut up into small pieces and six good sized carrots which have been cut into slices; cover the pan and let the vegetables sim- mer gently for ten minutes. Then add three pints of cold stock, a small blade of mace and salt and black pepper to taste; let the stock boil up; draw the pan to the side of the stove where the contents may simmer until the carrots are quite ten- der. When they are ready, strain the soup and rub the carrots through a siéve; mix the vegetable puree and the soup, then pour back into the saucepan, and when it has boiled up stir in a tablespoonful of flour which has been smoothly mixed with a lit- ue cold milk and let the soup boil for a few moments. Add a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley and serve accompanied by little sippets of fried bread. —+. Try Layer Pudding. Make a light. suet crust, roll it out thin and cut it in rounds the size of a cake tin in which, later, the pudding will be boiled. Place a round of paste at the bottom of the tin and a strip round the sides, wetting the edges to make them adhere. Spread a layer of raspberry jam over the bottom crust and then cover with a round of paste; now @ layer of green gage jam, and then an- other layer of paste, and so on until the dish is full, using as many different jams as possible. Buil for two hours and a half and turn out to serve. —— Baked Herrings. Fillet some fresh herrings, sprinkle them with a few dfops‘of lemon juice and -brush them over with some melted dripping; then cover them thickly with fine browned bread crumbs which have been mixed with some chopped parsley and seasoned with it, black pepper and a little nutmeg. oat a white china baking dish lightly with dripping, place the fillets in it and let them cook in a well-heated oven for from twenty to thirty minutes. The herrings should be served in the dish in which they are cooked. ———_ Useful Kitchén Table. A clever housewife has devised a kitchen table which is niost serviceable, especially in a small room. She had a carpenter make a second top for the ordinary table and had it fitted on to that with hinges at the back. This top shuts down tightly over the table and is used for the daily service, but when bread or pastry is to be made it is raised, and a fresh pine surface, never used for anything else, is ready. UP-TO-DATE TIPS Many Clothes Not Needed if Details Are Watched, x‘ CLEANLINESS THE FIRST ESSENTIAL Little Hints in Restoring Pristine Freshness. THREE COLLARS FOR A WAIST Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, March 22, 1900. To break an engagement because the man you thought of mar Iways buttered a whole slice of bre: once and ate i in its unbroken state would seem to indi- cate a superficial manner of reasoning. Yet the woman I know who did it has beea justified sinee by events as perfectly as she was justified by herself at the time. Such very trivial happenings seem to point to certain weighty prem: The difference in things in life 1s only in degree, after all. A broken engagement is sure to be more or less of a tragedy to at least one of the contrac‘ing parties. But there Is this silver lining to its dark cloud, the marriage might have been a tragedy to two people and to their descendants. Rea- soning from this, it follows that one may say truthfully that a broken engagement fs an unfulfilled expectation whose non-fulfill- ment may be very fortunate. Probably by the side of the entanglement of two hearis and their final disentangle- ment one would consider the subject of suitable and proper gowning and garbing of little moment. But pause and refi:ct. Engagements are more or less problemat- ical. Whether the marriages to which they may or may not lead will be happy is al- ways a moot question. They are grzat events, to be sure, but uncertain. Gowns Versus Hearts. Gowning and garbing, on the other hand, although subsidiary events, will always, if properly attended to, lead to gratifying re- sults, So who is wise enough to judge which is the greater, exp ions in the matter of mating which may or may not end satisfactorily, even though fulfilled in accordance with all that is known of love and duty, or expectations in the matter of gowning which are certain to end satisfac- torily if fulfilled according to known laws on the subject? For, though there are tragedies (and many of them) in f lon’s realm, they all result from not complying with ‘the rules of the game, and they can always be mend- ed by attention to d S. I witnessed a trag t an at home not long ago which vould have been so casily remedied that perhaps it was more of a drama that may yet end if some a hint, for the The hos- tess Is and was the on concer She has adopted a s her house gewns which ts alw or SS favor among a certain lite set in the 1if she does not follow Dame Fash- hi frocks nality. at very closely arm of orig: On this particular day sh self in a taffeta of purest ¥ namentation cc ted of . whose or- uresque and rather expens gold embroider The effect would have been perfect but for her hair. It i y, soft brown hair, an either nature graceful wave which ni When thi together from th pooing twice i shampoo detail is not most in all accompanying details. Lest We Forget. Of cour: the doctrine of scap and water need hardly be preached at this late date and It may be quite shocking to intimate that it should be more carefully at one time than anothe i But, outside of the heroin which was a ten days’ decade ago, I h: never h man who Washed her hair daily. was long she would have little time anything else during the twenty-four hours. Once a week, if the hair is moist, and from ning periods till we reach limit; a shampoo once a varied with dry cleaning between- times.’ The lady of the white taffeta had qui iled of the effect she wished to pro- duce by want of attention to the pleasant art of shampooing at regular intervals. It is the details which count, and some- times they are trifles light as air. There is the ever-recurring shoe question. It seems absurd to’ mention it. So much has been written and said about it. Every woman must know she had better go with- out a new gown than appear in {t with un- polished or neglected shoes. Yet at a house owned by'a millionaire this winter his wife appeared in the drawing room just before dinner in a pair of calfskin shoes which had never been polished. It was not a case of dusty boots, because the wearer had just come indoors. She had just returned home, it is true, but from a drive. There is a dif- ference between superficial dust and the dull, neglected look of a shoe which has never been polished. And the woman in question is dainty and fastidious. Her ar- ray of bath brushes would shame a Turk- ish bath establishment, her underclothes cost more than her frocks and the frocks are beautiful, although always quiet. What is one to think of indifference to the plight of one’s shoes in a case like this? ‘And does it seem possible when there are pastes and polishes for every sort of kid, calf or patent leather shoe, and a maid to put them on, that a very quiet but extreme- ly fetching’ cloth gown should be quite ruined in its effect by want of pplish on a pair of boots. Now an to Gloves. I hardly dare speak of gloves. A very ex- pensive and conservative shop has this tale told on it. A customer went in not long ago with a pair of gray suede gloves which were split, and in explanation said she had worn them half a dozen times only. The It is a morning in month, observed | is a simple tea gown trimmed with rich, fatl raftl and falls ir long ends in fro uiesma pro: comvic throw worn their hem halt enormou many a ow and again. The W It was the ¢ yond opened my ey © Woman. s of a woman who troubles which to glove cleaning as an art wetary Her white gloves w potiess, and even the fact that she had so many pairs did not account for it. Frequently several pair were put in the pocket in the side of he carriage when she was going first to a matinee and afterward for a round of calls. Her maid had found a benzine which w not only deodorized, ity fumed with something wh mind one of musk. ©: we all know deodorized benzine is a polite fiction, but this was so near it that with the of this fresh cologne smell it evaporated immediately. A number of pairs of tly pc ch did not re- were laid in addition | | lace. a small basin partly filled with benzine, and were brushed off with a brush in the | same menner that one would use a nail brush on the hands; not too briskly, but with decision and’ thoroughness. ‘Then each glove was taken out separately and laid on a h, and he fingers and any ces carefully wiped another c 2y this Ume they were spot- less. Then they were hung or laid on 4 cl cloth in a warm was not much dust (this t ters), and when they were were hung in the air. Then pulied and smoothed into sh put pairs between pieces of white tssue paper, and their happy owner was ased with them that white or p. colored kid giove: enever it Her suede and mc sends to the get them proper!. color in them. To Restore Freshness. I am sorry linen coil: going out. There was never any excuse for a solied linen collar. Laundries are numerous and sib’ 2 us ly hard to nd Keep the into shape in | wantag | v iwith! or collar. first hness he | ar, | a few k. Al-| r naph- mber it with a and or ssful they m ken in befor here are any . Pur+ soap, ater and a quick ‘on them befor they are han iron not het enough to Wiere Fashion Hurts. ave shoes, gloves and collars in not to mention sing collars let u: sider the very high c - re © up the long-su' th of the neck. an turn their he you can’t turn you: a ff, and that puts an end Very few wom them, and wh easily you are 2 to ease and grace The more one thinks of collars there ts to important the more are most y about them. The and one ne they are e: gown jus who thi both meet properly, bodices, ane high and one low three collars. There is a good white chiffon about the high So the: a white « . another of whii in front, and a i figured bluck taf- feta of the gown, with two points of lace turning over it. Brush With Another mat ashing. Care zsh and ing and brushi Brushing is n but from the scant attention paid it by many women who aim to be well dressed it is evider so considered. MABEL BOYD. I amount of good, and I w doing my housework. For advice in cases requiring special directions, address, giving ssmptome, ‘The Ladies’ Advisory Department, ‘The Chattanooga Medicine Company, Chattanocga, Tenn. | How to Avoid Pai ow to Avoid Pain. hi I have been afflicted with pains in the back and hips, and bearing down pains ever since | became a woman. Last spring | commenced using McElree’s Wine of Cardui and Thedford’s Black-Draught, and they have done me a wonderiul h to recommend them to any one who suffers as I did. For nearly a century, Wine of Cardui has been helping women to avoid pain and suffering. This wonderful remedy has made a Teputation for curing i. diseases” that no other medicine enjoys. Irregular and painful menstruatior ji) leucorrhoea and falling of the womb are t women escape them. ging pains and oppressive mental torture are be mean’s experience shows you can avoid this sufi $1.00 bottle of Wine of Cardui at your dr men will do well to keep a bottle of Win he most frequent female disorders. Few None but a woman knows what they are. The terrible drag- yond description. But Miss Cre- ering and misery ug store and taking it as directed. e of Cardui on hand for immediate use when sick headaches, pains in the back, abdomen, arms and legs, and other troubles coming from menstraal derangements appear. In this way many hours of suffering may be thwarted and the v ‘ tor frequently made unnecessary. Wine of Cardui should be given every girl at the age of puberty. It is used with great success during preg- nancy and the “change of life” and after chil ford’s Black-Draught, the companion medicine for the stomach, liver and kidneys, assimiliates with Wine of Cardui perfectly. Eddyville, Neb., May 11, 1899. For the last two months I have had pain in my back and bowels, and got no relief until I used McElree’s Wine of Car- dui and Thedford’s Black-Draught, atid now I am up and MELISSA CREMEANS. “female y procuring a Wo- its of the family doc- -birth or miscarriage. Thed- Mrs. DELLA SMITH. nes @rduj |