Evening Star Newspaper, October 22, 1898, Page 19

EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1898—26 PAGES. &pectal Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 21, 1898. ough in every region which boasts @ hunt club, huntirg or rather riding to hounds is the social diversion from the Ist of Octcber until snow flies, there are, in the neighborhood of New York, at any rate, comparatively dew women whose share in the sport is not limited to appear- unt breakfasts and at the meets, slowing in light traps along the n example iowbrook Hunt. whose kennels Hempstead, L. L, is supported by wealthiest of New York's so- e, whose megnificent estates irned the rolling hills, wide mea- ow heavy reaches of woods into a of the trim When New- park-like country, with much Stateliness of English scenery pert and Bar Harbor are deserted, when th re ing end falling, then the 1 season culminates in great h with their succession of eros runs, hunt breakfasts, di a? hant that has built the great country hou and that rules the life in them unusua!ly nS present and the fact that the his unde! enables the discretion. This Ralph N master of the has brou m England a tine pack—emong which Yarrow. Boleno an. Garrick are famous—so that nothing is wunting to add to the pleasure of the spor $ popular’ Nevertheless, the women who hunt increases if at a 3 because women do not love uther a case of husbands and fat! | to some extent of farmers. Four and v varred fences are a natural pre- caution when your fields are likely to be trampled by enthusiastic hurtsmen, keen on the scent of the anise: but many men ferbid their women folk a try at such leap- who de take part in the runs ater reputation. wh Ride to Hounds. among them is Mrs, Jame always at meet on beautiful with the he Ls wor manlike beauty of the thoroughbred. Mrs. ° gE Miss Bird, Mrs. Hamilton < Mrs. C. Albert Stevens, Clarence M Mrs. Hadden and Mrs, Ripley also | follow th nds. Mrs. Emily Ladenburg Pe most ceful horsewomen in t s riding this autumn with the Cs of the whrook hounds is differs ma om an English af- breakfast at one of | t then the star » sunlight 3 are few r 1 DS the costumes are the sm devised. Where the } will end is 1 beforehand, and it is | us a ” easily reached by vehicles. The v no follow the ho are exp nd it is a thr & thing to see a thoroug red, ridden by woman as ligh as a scouring along in an electric ex r t. rammed arrowstraight for an e ringe of the mare's back, a rs hand, and the fence s n v triumphantly Another fence ey KO in ¢ fashion, the mare’ pected under her. glints on satin-smooth es; they their | at} And the women? Hair coiled | -rything about them trim, trig. | t a loose end fiving, the look as bred, as fitted for their work as 1 animals. Dark Wabits the Thing. dark blue and brown are the colors that impress you, with touches of bunting b en them. Habits for cross- riding are som Imes more pictur- than for park riding, often quite as Everything is ne perfect cut, the grace of line, the beautiful | the material. Never does one | better than when seeing good } ostumes the uselessness of trim- } A woman not well groomed—a sta- to stable topics— | seback. i rize | who ride to hounds wear but whatever they wear is | a high riding hat is not lor hat is permissible, y with the gown autum more | n formerly, and at used to be ep cuffs and | Look t coming up at an POINTS OF BEAUTY. | Charcteristies for Which Wom Should Atwayn Strive. rw > 3 i h ght at once that atic bas hing for some- XN g than an ery girl }olding up Olsed head, and xy make the differ- as style and her s clumsy and awkward. One verlook the advantages of drill. ecessary to think of the soldier 4 squad, and compare him who has undergone 1 training. to be convinced grace of movement are wh, illing to work rl can daily take exercise in a he may train her muscles so obey her will: but even bet- ndo: ng is that which watks a great deal in the open yf and s. or often rows 1 pond or river t of beauty, needless to say This. too, is within andard who ne omnites larly m: 3 coff uns Wo ‘ul skin. nd rub- essential, and k- wel sh re ud be washed with 1 day i a lather nade of a delicate seap. This should be thoroughly ed into the sk ansing the e fine dust which clogs th The face should b i, and wiped with a soft time to do this suffi towel. The Is at night before re- ent ex zood food, ar bathing and plenty of Sleep, there » reason why a2 woma should not pre- rve the freshness of her skin unimpatred xt to old age beauty of the skin, but also 1 abundance of the hair, the of the eyes, and the sheen of the all are dependent on the circulation, h is promoted by healthful living, ‘d hands and feet have always been regarded as d etive marks of beau- While one cannot regulate the size of » members, she can always have her and nails well cared for and her feet uingly dressed. A woman who is well ved and well shod makes a creditable © even if the rest of her dress If one has not very gk appearan be somewhat shabby. | | her | | The hat is a high riding hat, closely young girl in the saddle wears a habit 0? dark blue smcoth cloth, the acm> of sim- Plicity and severity. The skirt has not so uch as a line of stitching to break its rigid plainness. The coat bodice has a pestilion back and a pointed basque front, fastened with a strap at the waist line. It turns away from the neck in a narrow col- lar and revers, with a silk facing. At th> opening appears a buttoned waistcoat of tan vesting. One has the merest glimpse of high turn-down coliar, smali dark blue four-in-hand tie and plain, tight ed in a blue scarf, which is confin-d some sort of glittering buckle. Searlet Vest and Hatband. Other costumes in sight differ not seriously. A black habit has a short, point- ed basque body with postilion back, and, in frcnt, narrow vest and lapels faced with rlet broadcloth. The black sai has a narrow scarlet band fastent horsesho>. A third habit is of brown covert cloth, and is nade with a cutaway coat and lapped seams. The coat collar and lapels are of 80 brown silk; pocket flaps on only ornament. The carriage procession is not as strictly sportsmanlike in its apparel; but here, too, there is a keen eye to the exact requir rents of the occasion. Long driving coats e ina and under them or dfs- 4 without th smartest of tailor tpe hips are gowns. Biscuit-color: tan and Melt are the favorite c teria of stitc and buttons their recognized trimmings ior the tailor z nin the city by bei col ) suit her dress, ar a taste- vat. The extremities give > the Hlet. Soiled, ill-fitting or worn-out gloves, h yawning holes buttons off, ¥ at the H ruin any from the impress ends and costur id of beauty whick eye of the t woman should make upon tt ——_+e+___ + Satin Cloaks. rom Herper's B: ir. loaks are always fashion- Satin opera able, and this year to be more used than ever, and th> satin that is shown is of the | most exquisite texture and coloring. Pale yellow, pale blue and pink, gray and whiie are all very popular, while in black and sme shades of green in peau de well as satin, there is much to choose from. Where economy has to be consulted a black opera cloak is a very useful garment. One of tha newest styles is made very long, in the circular shape, with a scam down the middle of the back, and quite close fitting. It ts long enough to reach to the ground, «nd is edged with a bias ruffle, the ruffle trimmed with bands of black velvet. On top of this cloak fs a cape, reaching, below the waist, pointed in shape, and med with a bias ruffle. Just around shoulders is still another cape, with a high flaring collar. The lining is of cream-white satin, and inside the satin ru are ruffles of white lace, 2ach ruffle headed with a narrow band of fur, At the throat is a large bow of black satin ribbon fastened with a rhinestone buckle. This cloak is very smart, and yet is not too conspicuous to wear in a public conveyance. The short satin capes are made on the lines of th long ones, and reach half-way down the skirt. A very smart one in dark green peau de sole is trimined with bands of black vel Vet ab and has a gr a rufile n vely flaring with he cloak is lined throzghout with flowered of lace insid>. silk. 2+ Woman's Laugh. From Collier's Weekly. A feminine laugh has to be decorative, and it should be the laugh of gayety rather than of humor. There can hardly be a question as to the sweetest laugh to be heard among nations of women—it is the Frenchwoman's. She has the softest warble of all. If doves were not so serious they might remind us of Parisian women laughing together. The Italian laugh is happy enough, but ft is not quite so independent of the subject of laughter; it has a jollity all its own. It is somewhat uncivilized, but needs no civilizing. But its principal characteristic is the contralto tcne proper to th> woman who is to the last somewhat of a peasant. The laughter of Englishwomen is too various for any brief description. For Englishwomen laugh, not according to their caste, as caste has lately been revised and redistributed. It may b> said that in caste also the treble note, the ready, the immediate, flits up to its own place—the top—and 1s audible there, for all its slender quality, a, as | iso’ trita- | [ca. st few women have established the precedent of wearing while in the coun- try short skirts, almost to the exclusion of others. Riding habits also have their mo- ments of relaxation, For the country lanes on days when the foxhounds are not in cry eVen white pique is Not always tabooed. Hare and Hounds Revived. The old game of hare and hounds is try- ing to establish itself with some of the younger set. not as a rival to other sports, but as co->xistent. The chances are that it will meet with little success. Even in these days of physical culture few women or girls have wind enough for the paper chase. The bicycle gymkhana, the sport of the hour in England, 1s winning its way more slowly in this country, partly because it requires large grounds, specially prepared; but some of the feats of gymkhana riders are often sven at the big country houses. The four-in-hand driving competitions are very pretty. A team is made up, for ex- mple, of four wheels ridden by girls in red and white or blue and white, the long ribbon reins being held by a man whose wheel flaunts the same colors. A novel ex- Fibition seen a few days ago required the riders to race for one hundred yards steer- ing the bicycle with one hand and holding in the other an egg in a ladle. The disincli- nation of the egg to stay put amused every- body but the competitors. Li Another item on the same nrogram re- {quired the cyclists to cover a like distance trundling a wooden hoop. ‘There was also 2 bending race of the familiar type.in which it fs uired to ride around polo balls j Placed four feet apart. The most novel thing tried was a bun race, in which the | women competing nad to spear a hin, put it off th» point of the spear into a basket, then repeat the process, all at full speed. ne Smart Wheel Rigs. Some of the smartest of the autumn cos- | tumes for the wheel are in dark mixed ; seeds trimmed with bright plaids. A re- cently finished bicycle gown is of chestnut- brown cloth, with a fitted bodice opening | over a chemisette of white cashmere, band- with scarlet braid. Wide revers and collar are treated in the same manner. Some of the latest experiments in bicycle skirts are cut to form inverted box plaits all round. Others are kilt-plaited. All these skirts are too full to be serviceable, how- evel For winter riding, one of the most eff. ive combinations is a brown and tan checked cheviot, trimmed with tan braid ae worn with a silk blouse in scarlet and orown, ' | Tourists Abroad Are Making a Prac- tice of “Rubbing Brasses.” om Harper's B. Many years nated by the seattered all « whose ago—a period usually desig- word “merry’—there were rt England churches upon floors and walls were innumerable brass tablets, of more or less artistle de- sign, to the memories of lords and ladi or rich merchants and thelr wiy period of turbulence set in, and “Old Noll,” at the head of the parliamentaria marched up and down the land, and co siderable damage was dcre. In’ the more prominent places these memorial brasses were torn from their scttings, and noth |Temains to show where they were but | Stone matrix here and there. a > However, in out-of-the-way places many, more or Jess worn, are still in existence. Those that | were on the floors have in some cases heen | placed on the walls, sometimes in nich and sometimes so high as to be reach only by a stepladder. While on a bicycle tour through the mis land counties of England the past summer I stopped for a rest at a stile under an old beech tree, and, noticing that the by ath led over the fields to an old church, whose square tower could be seen aver the tree tops, and knowing that the old churches of England are one of its most interesting and instructive features, I pushed in the direc- tion of the building. “At the porch stood a number of bicycles, and on entering T found a party of young ladies busily engaged in some sort of athletic exercise. They had Paper fastened to the walls, and were Scrubbing the surface with great dexterity, and gradually bringing out, by means of a black wax composition, the forms of knights and monks. The old rector, whom I met outside, explained that this was called “rubbing bi "and that the last ar or two had shown a decided increase the number of “rubbers.” Just why in they did it the dear old man did not know. A Roman Catholic father said, later, that when he was studying for the priesthood he rubbed brasses, and that in those days only antiquarians, students and sometimes art- ists, made any records of these ancient me- morials. A fair devotee of the art proved to me that we were on the eve of what might be called a new fad of the traveler and tourist. This person was a yoang American woman who had made some forty edd rubbings. She sald it was one of the most fascinating of hobbies. The more you rubbed, the more you learned of old armor and costumes and lettering. Take the knight, for instance. You can trace the changes that were made from the chain mail of the early times to the plate armor of a more recent period. You could note the changes made in the costumes of the rich freeman and his wife. This young lady belonged to a club evazy member of which must have rubbed a brass dating prior to the year 1600. An exhibition is held now and then, and the production of a “find” ts an_event. With your roll of paper, your gelatine lozenges and your black wax ball, nothing can be much more valuable as the record of a bicycle tour in Engiand than a few of these rubbings. or All Washington an Audience. The Star’s “Wanted Help and Situations” columns are carefully read by thousands daily. Fifteen cents pays for fifteen words. |HOUSEHOLD HINTS —— A salad and cheese course that is the daintiest thing Ithaginalile in the edible line hails from Auburn. N. ¥., but will bear passing atong through the length and breadth of thé'land. It is the nasturtium again, leaf ahd Blossom, that forms the basis of thts deliciously appetizing morsel. Upon a perfect leat with the stem left on is laid one of the rich yel ow blossoms, stem and all. Heré, however, the caterer’s art steps in to supplement nature. A teaspoon- ful of creamy, white po: cheese is deftly rolled up until iti is aboat an inch and a half long and as large around as a lead pencil. This is carefully slipped into the center of the blossom, simulating a pistil— somewhat abnormal, it 1s true. A number of these Individual salads are tastefully ar- ranged on a pretty glasi dish and served as a special course at lurcheons or dinners where something special y appetizing and novel is considered as a jesideratum. The salt with which the chzese is seasoned usually suffices for the whole tidbit, but more can be added if desired. Every bit of this course is edible—ieaf, blossom and stems. Many housekeepers fond of grape Jelly are deterred from attempting to make it of the ripe grapes becavse of its liability to refuse to “jell.” This objection may be removed by combining crab apple juice, which is remarkably mucilagincus, with the juice of the grape. It is said that a combination of grape and orange is also specially satisfactory. Stem the grapes, shave off the yellow rind of the oranges, add the pulp and juice and put’ in a stone jar or the preserving kettle. Cook slowly on the back of the range or set in a larger vessel of boiling water. When thoroughly heated mash and strain. Then allow a pound of sugar to cach pint of juice and proceed as with currant jelly. When cold and “set” cover the bowls with a double round of paper wet in brandy, pressed close against the jelly, ax.grapes are liable to mold. A layer ‘of absorbent cotton is particularly effective in excluding the air from cans or bowls of fruit where there is any doubt about their being air tight. Creamed chicken—Auburn style—makes a particularly nice company dish. It may be prepared in the morning if desired for sup- per or luncheon, leaving only the baking to be done at night. For the meat of two chickens boiled or roasted and cut in small pieces allow half a pint of milk, one pint of cream, butter the size of an egg, three tablespoonfu's of flour, cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Scald the milk and cream in a double boiler. Mix the butter with the flour and stir in the cream until it thick- ens: season; butter a pudding dish or the individual shells, put in a layer of chicken, then one of cream, and proceed in. this way until the dish is full, having the cream on top. Cover with a ‘sprinkling of fine bread crumbs and bake, allowing twenty minutes if in the shells or an hour if baked in the pucding dish. All milk may be used instead of part cream, in which case more butter will be needed. A dainty little housekeeper who delights in the evolution of new and appetizing Gishes for the delectation of her family and friends, stands sponsor for a delicate “ezg puff.” which all who have eaten approve, it may be mate in the chafing dish or aKed in a mold in the oven; but in either @ shoul be eaten the moment it is done, while . puffy, brown and delicious. The ingredients cailed for are four eggs, half as much gra S egg. half as much but thin tablespoonful of cream, a scant half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoon ofpepper. Melt tie butter, add the well en yolks of eggs, the cheese. cream, it and pepper, and. lastly. the whites of the eggs whipped sti If the chafing dish is used cover and cook over the hot-water-pan, Among the prettiest table decorations for the service of fruit in the winter are m: ple leaves, prepared by dipping in a sol tion of glue water. Maple leaves, bronze or scarlet; berries, hotly branches, pear and grape leaves, ferns and strawberry runners, are all suitabte for this purpose, are easily prepared,and will be found invaluable when it is dificult «to find. sultable decorations. The proporticns of the glue bath are one tablespoonful of liquid glue to one pint of water. Dipped in this, carefully dried and packed in bexes, the artistic service of fruit becomes possible without the aid of the high-priced florist. ‘all trees aleng the country roads are all aflame now with the bursting scarlet wit- ter-sweet, anc late sojourners in forest and meuntain are busy gathering this most cf- fective of winter decorations. Stripped of the leaves, which soon fade, the graceful twigs, witn their pendant burning clusters, which never loosen and “drop,” may be twisted about the pictures or over a cur- tain, where all winter they will call up the memory of blue skies, green fields and spreading trees. The annual harvest of coughs and coils is bearing its legitimate fruits, and the da- mand for efficactous cough remedies 1s well nigh universal. An excellent cough syrup that requires no persuasion to get it taken is roade in this wa Steep three table- spoonfuls of flax seed in enough water to make it a half cvp of clear flax seed tea when strained. Add to this a cup of loaf sigar and the juice of three lemons and cook until a clear, jelly-like syrup is ob- tained. This is not only agreeable to the palate, but will be found most soothing to the frritated throat and lungs. Absorbent cotton is one of the nicest things for removing floating globes cf fat from the soup, where time cannot be allowed for it to cool and n before r. heating and serving. Take a small bit of the clean cotton, wine deftly over the toy of the soup, and every bit of the fat will be absorbed. i for a cocoanut or there will be less chance of oggy crust if the milk is prought In making the fill custard pie having a to the scalding point and the eggs and st gar stirred in before putting in the crust. This will shorten the time of cooking by half. Tiny decanters of crystal mounted in s! ver filagree, and containing brandy or liqueur, are frequent additions to the after- dinner coffee cups when the is brought into the drawing room. tray In making drip coffee allow one table- speonful of coffee to each cup of water. See Pocket Knives for Women. From the Chicago Times-Herald. The tradition is—and maybe it was true ever so long ago, when woman always had a Kitchen knife within easy reach—that women have no use for pocket knives. That is what man believes to this day. He thinks she sharpens her lead pencil with her teeth, opens her letters with a hairpin, cuts string with scissors and borrows som man’s knife when'‘there is a can of ed ham or corned beef to be opened at a pi nic. But nearly every woman hus a penknife and find pienty of use for ft. Usually she has bought it herself, for she prefers that it shall not bea gift. Any man who gives a woman a penknife will find himself regard- ed with suapigian: It isn’t that she is perstitio} no, of course she isn’t. he will buy ‘one for her husband or for her son, but nevertheless she doesn’t like to be given one, and will look askance at the dainty little itaplement unless she has paid the traditional penny for it. The jewelers catry in stock knives for women, and 6ne of these merchants said the other day that one-third of his custom- ers were women, This he explained by the fact that a woman will keep a knife three times as Iong as a man will. Some of the knives they have in stock have jeweled handles or decorations that raise their cost from $5 to $50. Women don’t buy sucn ¢x- pensive ones—that is, not from jewelers— although they often buy them from friends at the price of 1 cent—an astonishing bar- gain, indeed. The popular knives for women are tiny bits of knives, not so long as the little finger, and sometimes not longer than a finger joint. Some of these dainty lttle knives have handles of gold or silver stud- ded with jewels. Very often they have chatelaine attachments or are worn with other little articles on a chain. ‘Wants Quickly Filled. At this season, when go many are seek- ing situations, and, on the other hand, 80 many seeking employes, it is of interest to know that advertisements under the classifications Wanted Help and Wanted Situations are inserted in The Ster at a charge of 15 cents tor fifteen words. FOR: UP-TO-DATE WOMEN What to Wear While Playing the Noble Game P of Golf. Clothes Must Fit Comfortably and B: Stylish, Too—Coats Better Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 20, 1898. The first view of the golf links is most disappointing. One sees few correctly ap- pointed women. Many of the best players affect an untidy alr, or, to be more just, are so interested in the gome and pursue it so industriously that the best cloths succumb to the hard usage they receive and soon take on a draggled air. At first glance the men seem to adhere more closely to one’s idea of the traditional uniform, for their bright red waistcoats enliven the land- scape. But a nearer view reveals the fa that not one man in ten wears golf stock- ings and knickerbockers. Must of them wear long trousers which are of such irre- proachable pattern that they would har- monize weil with a frock coat. After careful observation, one discovers that much of this carelessness as to attire is due to a desire to look as little like a novice as possible. Good nlayers often wear all of the attire proper to and re- served for the game of golf alone. So a fe course to follow would be to play your maiden games in a skirt which reach- ed the ankles in front and drooped enough behird to catch the dew and dampness of the turf; a cotton shirt waist of nondescript color, with the sleeves rolled up above the elbows, and any outing hat In your ward- robe which had seen service enough to take from it the reproach of newness. After a knowledge of the game has been gained and the novitiate is safely past, It is best to dress as correctly and neatly for olf as for the hunt—and for the latter Sport no deviation from neat and suitable attire is ever seen Fer all outdoor exercise dainty feminine undergarments are discarded. Laces and muslin are not suited to the work in hand. Union garments of silk, silk and wool or of a light-weight natural wool in the beige or castor color are best. Over this may be drawn black tights or knickerbockers of silk or mohair or any prefered material. Boned waists are preferable to corsets, but if the latter are worn they should b> ver short and elastic. As the weather grow colder the elastic jersey flannel corset cov- ers are of great value under th» shirt waist. For, though one may begin the game on a cold day with warm coat or cape over the shirt waist, yet soon the warmth of the work will make it necessary to discard wraps. Not only is the fresdom of the arms necessary, but it is a mistake to sup- pose that the game of golf is a leisurely one. Many miles are covered at a brisk pace by good players, as natural curiosity prompts ene always to hurry forward to find the “lie” of tha ball. Skirts Heavy, but Golf skirts are made, heavy, double-faced mate lenger and longer, and u stand they will rt. as last year, of jal. They grow women make the ground reach They are often worn below the ankle: The sensible set of women, however, wear ene skirt for both golf and cycling, which goon now is at least six inches from the ground. I! is not as a rule made of the heavy double- faced Scotch flannel, as this has been foun quite too heavy for eccats, although it makes ‘magnificent golf capes. and a coa! is a neeessity with a wheeling costume. There is httle superfluous fullness in t front of the golf skirts. If used for t plone they are often gored In front anc circular in the back. If for bicycling as well they may be either circular or gored kirts. The latter are apt to keep their contour best. Golf capes or red or green cloth golf jeckets are worn over the inevitable shirt waist. The golf capes are much longer than _of yore, quite three-quarters length and are usually mtted in the back though it is doubtful whether a fitted c: quite as convenient for play as the loc one, even when thrown back from the arms by means of the crossed straps. However, as was mentioned above, playing in a coat or cape is not often necessary, and it is better to dress warmly enough to avoid it. Gilt buttons, with the initials of one’s club upon them, and reveres faced with the club color are a feature of both coats and capes. The red golf coats are by far the most attractive bits of color on the links. They are perfectly plain, not very long and must be fitted with great care. Those who are fortunate enough to have a figure which Is fitted by the ordinary cus- tom cut clothing can purchase them ready made, and have the buttons and colors of their own club put on. This is not only less expensive, but is much the wisest plan unless one can afford the very best of tailors. Custom work is cut on good and generous lines, but the tailor is rare who does not entirely depart from his rule of long and generous lines when fitttng a wo- man. Usually he has a theory that she wants everything skin tight, and nothing is more out of place and inartistic in cloth garments than a drawn or tight look. Coats of Brilliant Hues. The green golf coats are made like the red cnes, and are those who find the bri! to their style of beauty. A very striking costume plaid skirt and a coat of fitted lke the besque ¢ is very smart, indeed. coat with fitted fronts for golf is, however, that one cannot wear a tight wais It, and thus the contour is apt to be spoiled But although tight exactly designed for iant red too trying for golf has a plain material, a riding hodit. It The objection to a waists to play ‘n are out of the question, there is the golf waist- coat for women, made exactly like the men's golf waistcvats, with sleeves and back of satin or silk and k fronts. In spite of all attempts at innovation, the ted or worst shirt.waist reigns supreme as the go vaist par excellence. For on the swing one 1s carefully taught to give the club 4: pends, to a great extent, the long-dista plays, and this swing can never be acqui if ths arm is cramped in the socket. Fiar nel, velveteen or any warm, light-weight material will make suitable waists. Plud and red flannels continue as heretofore to be most used. Of course plain flannel waists are worn with plaid skirts and plant wais” { freshly spilled ink; it absorbs the ink, and OO SOOOS OOS OOOO ODO NOON OO Oe Mrs. Rorer @rincipal of the Philadelphia Cooking School, and Cookery Editor of the Ladies’ Home Journal) says: LWP? PPAR PER PY PE “Cleveland's baking powder is entirely free from ammonia, alum, or other, adulterants. A “I am convinced Cleveland’s is the purest baking powder made, and I have adopted it exclusively in my cooking schools and for daily house- hold use.” Mrs. Sarah T. Rorer. @leveland’s Baking Powder minds one of the important fact that none | Old-Fashioned Jewelry. but the best materials will stand sun, rain From the Philadelpbia Press. and wind with success, and even 2 as ‘ 5 ‘ ‘ should never be made up without most | 2 Nee WAL We want mowedays, Ge careful and thorough sponging and press- | then throw it aside ing. | Those, however, who in the past have The smartest hat for golf is a gray in| taken care of what has been handed down campaign shap>, with a band of leather or | ¢) 1), Reece eraaliess st Nees ribbon and one quill on the side. Th to them ‘will have thelr rewerd, eapertally campaign hats will have to be avoided } BS Seberds Cameos and worl, any exercise in town, as they bid f. he old-fashioned cameo bracelets, nec be too popular, but at the country lets, brooches a buttons can be ned they are very smart and appropriate to most profitable account, and those pos- Alpines Hold Their Ow | sessing coral necklaces of smail, long beads The Alpine hat still holds its own. This | closely strung together will have an op- year it usually has a bow and some loops ty of wearing them on the left side, with a quill run through Fn ene ier then tbe Mates season ; immed as last | °f Colored glass which are coming in the loops. Sometimes it is trimme 8 las in the Jatter part of the last ntury year with a band of soft, bright Roman | semi-circular combs mounted in gold were colors. The Tam O'Shanter is 2 very be- | worn as coron’ These are now mounted ccming head covering with a golf cape. aeagl a Revd above the other, and The foot gear for golf has been described | tists of hair ant ct ends & Sonia Or before, and is very familiar to every one, as | WISI Of hair out o sis vies the shop windows are continually display- | 0) thu hair ween lo ct . ing the heavy spiked boots or shoes. | opesbs Mingly eth : ag! a aoe eae See Stocks, ties and collars for wear with the | ToMNS singly Will be brought forward on shirt waist follow th> prevailing mode i tanheui. Sve ee ee Tee nee MABEL BOYD, | Pandeau. When long earrings were worn | there was generally a smail top and a long ——— | Pendant, which, in coral, was mostly Reopening the House. | carved.” Both the small < tons and Seon tha dicen aa | Penda ts will be employed y as pins. There is a surface cloudiness on carpets | “Vin. oy ; partied at abe ee cai in closed houses that often makes them | position reversed, @ pin ia inet che dull and grimy-looking, even after the most | base, and thus employed for lace ties careful sweeping. Housekeepers returning | The carved coral heads, « oches to closed, dust-laden homes are discour- | 4nd Neri — Coral is aged often that even two or three sweep- | women. orn Sy = dark-complexioned ings do not seem to take out the summer's | accumulation of dust, It is not desirable to | Side Plackets remove the carpet from the floor for spe- | From the Philadelphia ‘Times cial leeuing, at it As Known fo pe pertecty 1) AV beat cae trashy, alienyw beers ak bee clea beneath, but the dull surface fs very | imminent concerning the placket hole, is disheartening ist aud bere eed e ee vosed of an y woman who cannot The most simple and satisfactory clean- | pmembor to hook this ing will be the brightening of the surface | oo. her ath olors by the use of a little spirits of tur- iran Fink Se db bay pentine in water. A good tablespoorful of | nie nutioned securels turpenune io two quarts of water will be | 1)" : eetbnsbhen te ol fon, apd it will be found : cas psec A for rapid brightening and | * ning in Sep are } vent and a little to th be applied with a broom re the seam of the f width but a cloth should be wrung out frem the | runs up. This leaves the back of the skirt mixture and the carpet wiped over with io Mh abepbd fadadaenis “ey Before using thls the carpet shovld be | 2) ire and innocent ef bon en ates te SL StEC ae EL aroeh any EES cule Pe wea ah reys while the house was close’, sait | 7 as mange of base for kbe placket has should be thickly sprinkied over the soot, | = mrs he A gcnnig theo ergemnat9) e ard all traces of the salt and soot care- | Siove Bung the tops of all skirts, and the fully swept into the dustpan: then rubbing at ot fovation sn front is mently ever with the turpentine water will leave | Caled by a short row of small ornamen the carpet bright and spotless. buttons or a careful adjustment of braid And not on t the time of the reopen- | lites. Probably never before in the history ing of the house, but at various intervals | Of dressmaking have skirts been so scant in the regular cleaning, the turpentine | @8 this year. They simply have no full- water will be of benefit to the carpets, | 288 at all, save w slight spreading effect keeping them free from moths, as well as | in the rear and below the knees. Such a bright and clean; and in case of occastonal | Pesult is obtained by artful sloping and Salt the accidents. as the spilling of ink, etc. should be applied immediately to goring, and thus ample fre-dom in walking is allowed, though a skért that boasts a cir- cumference of three yards is # very, very wide one indeed. the two form a crust which car be readily removed: then sponge the spot with clear acaeeeeee es wes hot waier, using the sponge elmost dry, to biwihs ot Abie avoid the spreading of inky water; then | rom the Indianapolis News. wipe the spot and all around the spot with | °°" ee A very pretty and amusing way of mak- ing jewelry to be used in the production of charades or In juvenile amateur theatricals is here shown. Dissolve a pound of alum the turpentine water. —+e+—_—____ Selfishness. From the Philadelphia Times. a Probably the most insidious of all the | in a quart of hot water aod suspend in the faults is that upon the absenre of which saturated solution a crown or some other we most pride ourselves, and that at the | Sheape d form made of wire and covered with same time we notice most readily in oth- | Sitips of flannel or wound with woolen ‘3. In some of us it is pride, in others | threads, In order to obtain the very best gossiping. The list is long, and we know it | Tesults it Is necessary to ta vessel of glass with an even, high! surface, wid turbed for y polished which must remain und without going into details, but that which we do not seem to realize is that the very e -for ours in a ylace afte most common fault of us all as a mass} TO" iition of alum fas! been poured. ia is selfishness. We do know that nearly | and the article to be covered with crystals every one we meet is selfish, but we sel-| has been suspended so as to ha e in dom discover how selfish we are ourselves | the solution without touching side untess shown by a sudden touch of deep | A coul room is preferable, for reer st of us discover, for instance, | (). DAniant that we were selfish in reference to some | 'A'ter remaining twenty-four hours in the | dear fri 1d dead, but we stop right there, | ution the at tava dae nd wh.e we regret the past and shed | a aba, Jess tears over the lost chance, we do aan not make any new discoveries, ‘namely, | {UnItSIy oni seeks ta that we are selfish to our living friends, | pansy wigs : nd -while we think that they are being | faci very tine luc crvstals unfair, unkind, to us, we forget to be gen- | Slum equally fine yellow ones erous ourselves, to look beyond the frown, | 2utitione ter coloring the erystale the hard word, the selfish act or neglect. | Sor bringing about such tine results, are a and see what it is that causes all this, to | (Cy ‘drops “of ordi aoe-binck lwrseige see what strain our friend is bearing and | [CW (robs of on ohhh an, share it in so far as patience, generous | 11,0" 0! & Sv" mccoy forebearance, will lighten it. . iseetisets ‘Think how selfish most of us have been é in time gone by, how quick words have White SUK Underskirts, one out to hurt hearts already hurt, when | From the St. Locls Globe-Democrat from us at least that particular cross friend | phere jg something so exquisitely dainty had a right to hope for better things. 3 p a pure e si poat that ia Do make a very close examination of | i @ pure white silk petticoat that it with plain flannel skirts, providing one af- } fects plaid waists at all. Plaid Tests Good Taste. Plaids require disereet handling, and loud plaids, although the very smartest patterns on tall, slender people, should be eschewed by short or stout women. Almost every one con wear plaids which are not very pronounced, and as a rule a piaid pattern is far more durable than a plain one. It ts less and does not wear a dingy look, * exposed to wind and weather. 1g of exposure to the clements re- small wonder every trous and that they are especially favored for evening wear. They may be elaborately plaited, flounced and ruched with regal ef- fect, but the most refined women will select those made like the muslin models, with a sored top and deep Spanish flounce, with rows of point de Paris inserting let in be- tween clusters of the tiniest tucks, and having a full fall of the same lace, rather deep upon the broad flounce, and numerous things in general and see whether you are ae a not yourself more selfish than are your friends, and remember that the greatest generosity in this world is to have patience with others in their “selfishness,” for in| half the cases at least it is pain or worry, not real intended unkindness at all. Might as Well Be Consistent. From Puck. “Here is the first definite proposition I 5 es ese si leanse beautl- Have nora sor error an Ae 2 hiNeptan Tolly,ioam be worm wath i oartety oF eaner zp Wwoat tn itt shades, and are less expensive than the “A corresporéent of this paper suggesis that we shouid either spell Philippines with an ‘F’ or Filipinos with ‘Ph.’ ” proportionately less desirable ones in color. An extremely pretty skirt in this style costs about $18.50. THE EDUCATION OF MR. PIPP, On this occasion Mr. Pipp follows instructions he bas received and appears interested,