Evening Star Newspaper, October 8, 1898, Page 19

A Le 1S08, by the International Literary and News Service.) of Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 7, 1898. bevy advances the elevator boy f into narrower compass. s him Sweeping skirt after skirt is coiled away in the “if i it voyages upward to the music of “When did you get back?—How Where did you go this sum- ive of bees buzz the parlors arged. figures detach the newcomers, “When did you get well you look!—Where did you n the coiors of au- ors of violet, and thing faint o s of “When did you get there mingles programs. . a catch of silk the carpet, a filing -decked lunch tables. Fol- > of seating, the struggle to brought into the club fold nearly every woman who before had remained outside, so that now to speak of what club women can teach other women is less accurate than to speak of what women of one club can teach other clubs; and, outside of ‘ence and philanthropy, among the things of which interesting lessons might be made is the arrangement of lunch tables. Sorosis leav much to hotel people, but among the clubs of smaller and exclusive member- ship the beauty of the table is as much re- garded as the music or art of the program. Color Symphonies for Clubs. One of the Brooklyn clubs made of its first meeting for the autumn a study of yellow, with straw-tinted trumpet glass, pottery of the color in which Chinese royal- ties are dressed, and brass bowls filled with jos t from the to dinner. For lub woman has nking dry r hus-like— e of philanthropy 1 roll down. ary work during the war son | = color was scarlet, ‘‘angry and brave;” ons and euphorbia in squat chryso- gla 8 crowning tabl y knots in whose centers arlet ribbon. But wer the most unique design was that of a small camera club, which celebrated its first ex- hibition of pictures brought home from wanderings with a_ breakfast u cards were decorated with > members cut from amateur s. Terra cotta and white were lors chosen for th> tables; the terra cotta in rather dark plush centers, the white in flowers held by enameled Cinder- ella slippers. in a great majority of the women’s ciubs has few of the eccentricities of Bo- hemianism and few of the vagaries of ex- treme fashion. As representing the taste of moderately cons2rvative, well-to-do wo- men, {t is of all attira almost the best worth studying. The girl on the music program who chooses a Greek robe of some clinging wool, in order that the loose sleeve may fall back and show a white arm as gha fingers the harp, has h2r reason. The woman who reads a paper on “Sanitation in Tenement Houses” has equally her reason for wear- ing rich, dark hunter’s green velvet, spar- ingly embellished with bright Scotch plaid ve'vet and set off by the smartest of gloves and millinery. Club women are chary of having it known that they waste much gray matter on cos- tumes, but an ord2r to appear on the pro- gram results as often as not in an order to the dressmaker; so that there is a closer ecnnection than might be supposed between an up-to-date pap-r on “New Theorios of. Wagner” and an up-to-date dress of cop- per-red cloth with long copper-red velvet potonalse opening over a white satin waist- ceat and lace jabot. Dress and Essay in Harmony. By subtle magnetism a disquisition on “Manners at the Court of Louis XV” at- tracts to itself a skirt of pewter-gray face cloth, with a lanky Louls XV coat of cucumber-green velvet, whose paste but- tons are properly enormous, and whose tail is cut away from the front to flare the longer and more peaceck-like behind. There is not so much reason, epparently, why In the Sober Society for Political Study a discussion of the constitution of the state of New York should bring to the front one of the best examples of the new button-in-the-back tailor gown, national blue in color, princess in cut, decorated with scroll designs in darker blue and black applique; or even one of the smartest black velvet coats of the season, with white cara- cule vest, embroidered in silver; but so it goes. Find the women who stand up to be looked at, and you find not only the new- , but the best considered and most ele- gant dresses of the season. Ever siice Adile Sultana, betrothed of Abbas Pasha, found no use of her English education so pressing as a letter to her shopping csmmissioner to send her “Feath- erses; my soul, I want featherses again. I want featherses of every desolation to- morrow;" or since Grace Greenwood heard Mary Sorerviile advising Harriet Marti- peau to dye a certain dress to match a cer- tain shawl, the women of progress, instead of ignoring “featherses,” have lifted them to the plane of a fine art, rather than left them as a vanity. A beautiful costume that hid away among the truants at a recent club meet- ing was of currant-red uncut velvet, cov- ered with black hair lines and crossed by haif-inch bayadere stripes of black velvet. The skirt was left plain; there were a black satin stock and belt, and a cream lace tie fell over a currant-red vest covered with little ruffles of black satin ribbon. The larg? picture hat of black velvet was trim- med with ostrich plumes, while a wreat ot currant leaves and fruit lay around the brim. Stylish Model in Blue. Another dress that figured on the same occasion was of Delft blue broadcloth, whose deep, shaped flounce was covered with black net heavily appliqued with sil- ver. Above th? flounce the sheath skirt was trimmed to the waist with silver cords forming inverted V's. The lower part of the corsage was covered with striped blue and silver gauze gathered to the waist; th upper part showed a square yoke in- crusted with applique like that upon the skirt and edged with frills of blue satin ribbon. The hat accompanying this cos- tume was of blue felt with decorations of silver gauze and black ostrich plumes. ‘The little note books that are nec2ssary to a clubwoman’s peace of mind are often mounted at present in Russian enamel, whose varied colors are sometimes so har- mcniously r2peated in the dress as to sug- gest that the entire outfit has been built around the emblem of office or dignity. The multi-toned poplirs in vogue lend them- selves curiously to this illusion. The effact is almost as marked in costume trimmed with the broad satin and velvet stripcs which so harmoniously combine metallic blues, reds and browns. Some of the newest materials for elabo- rate dresses look as if their makers were trying to steal a march on the designers of trimmings. Fringes, appliques and r bon insertions are woven into tnem with What must seem to the fringe and ribbon men diabolic ingenuity. A dre: erder in black silk and wool grenadine has a bayadere stripe of white ribbon with a fluffy fringed edge cropping out upon tha skirt in most unexpected places. Flounces With Narrow Headings. The skirt, which is not quite so cel-like as the models of last month, is edged by a flounce whose heading, as upon dresses of years ago, stands up in an aggressive little ruffle. This heading is of white rib- bon with a lace edge, ard it is woven upon the fabric. The bodice has a full biouse, which is cut away to show a yoke and yest of tiny ruffles of the same lace and ribbon. A black felt hat with trimmings of white and turquoise blue 1§ worn. A rather stately reception dress of white broadcloth is made with a long polonaise, which has flat side paniers in black velvet, and with a skirt the bottom of which is cut out in a Greek fret pattern over a black velvet flounce. The bodice revers and nigh Medici collar are faced with white satin covered with jet applique. Hints cn How t Various Kinds. phia Times. of ers in the present to be no end, for on any casion a note or letter i or another is necessary. Busl- notes of invitation and of ac- of the same, ete., all or less frequently every one does not © writing of them to be either easant duty. er,” as it is called— ne right thing in the to express enough and yet t not to be diffuse—is a gift that ally to everybody. Let- n are, as a rule, easy in fact, they might greeable of difficult and to ons either ly both Like their friends. in times may not hy is more an many people » not seem to e it when offered, they ys Uncon- ey as certainly remember it not the pen of a ready refore such a one may find © a letter of kind hes, for if they are ex- sound formal and the recipient is apt letter as gushing and to + writer insincere. When a daugh- tled the mother an- ives and_intim: m she write ter without loss of @ wedding present the a note of good wishes n to go with the present, suld write a note of acknowledge both the » letter of congratulation that When sen ould wr s been d not be Black-edged paper and enerally used for letters of sn when the wi S are not nose in trouble. It is not con- t for friends who live near unless on very intimat2 but they should at once cards of inquiry and sym- s with kind inquiries. ° answered as soon as able to do so, and cards with thanks for kind in- all those who have called or sent when the sender is once more visitors. continent mourning cards—or per- y would more correctly be called “announcement cards’—are sent to all friends and connections when a death oc- curs, announcing the sad event, and in this way people are certain to hear at once and are able to tender their sympathy without loss of time; but in this country the an- | nouncement of a death is made through the | medium of the newspapers alone, and some- umes only in one paper, and when this is | the case those friends who do not happen | to see that particular paper may know | nothing of the loss their friends have sus- tained until some time after, when perhaps | it Is too late to either write a letter of con- dolence or send cards of inquiry, and are therefore often accused of being unsympa- thetic, when all the while they are in com- plete ignorance of what has occurred, so that 4t would really seem as if the method employed in this country might be in some way altered and improved. Sep Spoons for Gifts. Frem the Philadelphia Press. Considering whe fact that the modern hostess refuses point blank to furnish her guests with spoons for anything more solid than coffee, one wonders that spoons are still fashionable as wedding presents. But they are, and the silversmiths show cases of five and six drawers filled with spoons. To be sure, the spoons are not exactly like the old-time implement of that name. Some of them bear a striking resemblance to the oyster fork, and others look lke shovels, bon-bon tongs and sugar shakers, The latter are berry spoons, and they come in pierced gold and silver, with great bowls, almost as big as the spoon end of a salad ladle. Then there are spoons for bouillon that look Ike sea-shells and spoons for jelly that have flat, round bowis and lcok like the little money scoops used by the paying tellers of the treasury. The handles of all these are very elaborate and heavy, or of chastely simple designs. There seems to be no middle ground. One of the prettiest designs in silver spoon handles shows cupid heads in pro- file, the soft feathers from their wings fcrming the stem of the spoon. A perfectly plain handle, with a narrow, finely wrought vine around the edge, is another design new this season, and in excellent taste. SUK Wa’ From Harpe>s Bazar. With the tailor gowns, that is, those that ars made with coat and skirt, it will be ab- solutely necessary to wear silk waists, and so there are a great many different de- ens being made up. Almost all are tight- fitting, and made very elaborately. The tucking and shirring that wer3 used on them in the spring are again to be seen; while a new fad is to have as many rows of fancy stitching as possible. The waist should match the color of the gown as nearly as possible, and not be of a violent contrast in color. A gown of dark blue cloth has a watst of almost precisly the same color, but in silk, and this is made as a cloth waist would be, but with lines of stitching so put on ts to give a V-shaped point back and front; it is tigat-fitting, cut with a basque, and? worn with a belt, and round collar of white lace. A CUP OF TEA, Novel Ways of Preparing This Bever- age in Various Countries, From the Youth's Companton. The offering of a cup of tea seems about the simplest form of hospitality, and on its face appears hardly capable of affording much entertainment. It remained for two ingenious girls to find out a way of reliev- ing “afternoon teas” of thelr monotony and rendering them truly entertaining. These girls had traveled, and they had observed that tea was served in different ways in different countries. Their idea was to prepare tea for their guests after the method of other lands, serving it in all the more interesting ways in succession. ‘They began with the Russian samovar and the slice of lemon or lime. That was simple enough, but the next “tea” was more novel. It was a reproduction of the Uruguayan mode of tea drinking. The tea of that country was used, prepared like Chinese tea, but with the’ drinking came the really entertaining part of the affair. There was something far removed from the hackneyed in the sight of a group of guests drinking tea through silver tubes, each of which had at the end a ball-like strainer, known as a bomba or bombilla. It is little wonder that this tea was pronounced a success. Next on the lst was a Mandarin tea, in which a large artistic cup was set in a brass or silver holder, In this cup the tea was placed and covered with boiling water. The process was continued by the placing of a little saucer inside the cup in an in- verted position, the saucer being of such a size that it just fitted the cup and kept in the steam and flavor of the tea. When the tea was drawn it was poured from the big cup into dainty little ones no larger than an eggshell. The process was not easy. Several cups were broken and their contents spilled, but the tea was good and the whole entertain- ment successful. A Java tea, served in broad, flat cups and flavored with Batavia arrack, was fourth on the program, and was followed by the Formosa, 1n which the tea was steeped with tea flowers and one or two orange flowers. The result was a perfume and a flavor of the most intense Kind. One of the guests remarked that they were not drinking tea so much as wedding bouquets. A young lady who had spent a winter in the West Indies introduced the plan in vogue in Martinique. The teacup she em- ployed was narrow and rather deep, re- sembling the old-fashioned lily cup. An aromatic tea was used, and a peculiar liquor made by the inonks and by the oid French housewives was added. Last of all came an up-to-date Paris tea. —2+ Here is the way in which to was gar- ments or quilts of eiderdown: Make suds of lukewarm water and the best laundry soap. Put in the garmert and wash it thoroughly, being careful not to rub soap on it: that causes it to shrink in spots, and it is undesirable in every way. The’ best eiderdown will not impoverish, and will bear hard and frequent washings. It must be well and repeatedly shaken after !t is washed. the more and oftener the better, ard hung in the sun or near @ good fire, but not tco near, rs EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 8, 1898-94 PAGES.’ 19 HOUSEHOLD HINTS a> ip Few housekeeper’ retlize the usefulness of lime water in tht ecdnomy of the house- hold. While it can be tought already pre- pared at eny drug store, it can easily be made at home if One is so situated as to get the lime. Put a ‘piece of fresh un- slacked lime—aboyt half a peck—into a large stone jar and pour over it slowly, so as not to allow it‘to slacken too rapidly, four gallons of hot’water. Stir until thor- ovghly dissolved, and then allow it to set- tle. Repeat this process several times dur- ing the day, and ‘then carefully pour oT into bottles all that conies clear and limpid. Many people who find that milk distresses them will feel no ill effects if a teaspoonful of lime water is added to each glass they drink. If put into milk that is liable to curdle when heated, it will prevent its do- ing so. For burns and scalds it will be found most effectual when mixed with an equal part of linseed oll. This, in fact, is the “carrou oil” which the Welsh miners always keep ready for use in case of acci- dents in the mines. It will also be found useful in cleaning babies’ nursing bottles or small cream jugs, purifying and sweeten- ing them without leaving ary unpleasant taste behind. The latest remedy for flies comes from New Hampshire, and fs said to be both sure and agreeable. ‘The wild sweet pea flower is the promised safeguard against that hated pest, the housefly. A physician who has had much experience among the sick of the poorer classes declares that a pot of the peas grown in a sick room will in- sure reliet to the patient frequently har- assed almost beyond endurance. The vy: eties mentioned as, most specially effective are the Lathyrus’ Maritimus, the purple variety which grows near the seacoast from the coasts of the great lakes, and the La- thyrus Ochrolencus, with its small, yello ish-white flower, which is found on the hillsides from New England to Minnesota and even further west. A mixture of celery and English walnuts makes a delicious dinner salad. Cut ci celery into small bits and mix with it twi thirds the same quantity of nut meats pre- viously boiled in salted water for ten min- utes, with a slice of onion, a bay leaf, half a dozen peppercorns and a blade of mace; then plunged in cold water and skinned. Add mayonnaise to moisten thoroughly, and serve each portion on delicate lettuce leaves While grapes are still abundant, a supply of the unfermented juice should be canned for use in sickness. This will always be found a valuable tonic, without the deleter- ious effect of alcoholic stimulants. A drink that is often served in sanitariums is made as follows: Put in the bottom of a wine- glass two tablespoonfuls of the grape juice: add to this the beaten white of one egg da little chipped ice: sprinkle sugar over the top and serve to the invalid. A good, plain tapioca pudding that ts always in season and {s warranted not to give dyspepsia is made in this w Soak one cup of tapieca over night in two cups of cold water. In the morning fill a but- tered baking dish two-thirds full of tart quartered apples, peaches or berries. Add one cup of sugar to the tapioca and pour over the fruit. Cover and bake two hours. A correspondingly simple pudding sauce to go with this is made of a beaten egg fla- vored and sweetened to taste. While the creaking of the cider mill is heard through the land it is expedient to recall the best means of keeping that bev- erage sweet. A dealer in cider who has achieved the reputation of “knowing what's what,” says that he allows to every gallon of cider one handful of common salt, a quarter of a poundiof sugar and the whites of six eggs, well beaten. The cask is then kept open until fermentation ceases, after which it is closed. To the housewife'who missed putting up her usual store of currant jelly, greeting and good cheer! A Canadian housekeeper says that an almost pe¥fect substitute may be made by combitfing: two quarts of crab- apple juice with one quart of plum juice, and then proceeding in the usual manner. A little grape juice added makes a good jelly also, but it then lacks the currant flavor. “It's a great mistake when taking qui- nine to break up a cold,” says the family doctor, “to take it in too large doses. Two or Three grains. four hours apart, is quite sumMei for the purpose. When larger doses are taken the pores are opened and at the least exposure the cold is added to instead of being cured. Tce cream served with a hot chocolate sauce is a late culinary discovery that finds favor with many. The sauce is made of a pint of milk scalded and thickened with corn starch to the consistency of cream. A square of melted chocolate ts added with sugar and flavoring to taste. In serving the ice cream as a dessert the sauce is passed with it in a pretty pitcher. An appetizing relish for the Sunday night supper are the small No. 3 salt mackerel, freshened, well dried and broiled over a clear fire. Serve each fish on a small in- dividual platter, garnished with lemon and @ sprig of water cress or parsley. “A good, stout toothbrush, plenty of wa- ter and some antiseptic dentifrice applied morning and night,” says one who has given much thought in the interests of an- Useptic purity, “will afford a greater safe- guard against many diseases than most people are aware.” Never use large pots for plants from which you want many flowers. Abundance of root room makes vigorous, bushy tops, but the plant will be all leaves and no blossoms. In making a salad bear in mind that the different parts should not be mixed togeth- er or with the dressing until serving time. ———— WOMEN’S CLUBS, Valuable Suggestions on How Start and Run Them. From Self Culture. This is the month for the coming together of club members, and also a good time for the formation of clubs, now that women are back from their summer outings, and are settling down to the vocations and amusements of the winter. There are many villages in which the prejudice against clubs still exists; and, if the truth must be told, these are the villages where the people are most tired of one another and most self-centered. If these neighbors who now bore eath other to the verge of extinction Were to unite themselves in a club, devote themselves to the study! of good books, dis- cipline themselves ‘with the observance of sane parliamentary law, and extend some club courtesies one to the other, they would be amazed at the interesting qualities whtch they would excavate out of the debris of thelr misunderstandings, their petty jeal- ousies and narrow estimates. Nothing ts easier‘that! the formation of a club. Any good-naturel and popular wo- man can do it. She need not be skilled in parliamentary law, nor a college woman, nor a social sing If,she has an intelli- te gent understanding of’ her neighborhood and its needs, and @ heart which warms to her kind, all she Gas to do is to make a few calls, arouse some/interest, or at least get a polite hearing, and then announce an hour of meeting at any convenient place. Then let her put on a,simple street dress and also a simple’manfier, and lay before her listeners her ideas and call for theirs. This meeting can be preliminary. Another day can be appointed for the regular or+ ganization. A chairman can appoint a com- mittee with power to arrange all the de- tails of constitution, by-laws and tieket of Proposed officers. The election can pro- ceed by ballot, and with officers to perform their functions; it is easy to discover who the proper women are to prepare the lines of study. The briefer the constitution and the fewer the by-laws, the betjer, by the way, and the more modest thé course of study, the more thorough it is apt to be. If the club is a small! one, it is better for the members to unite upon one line of study. If the members are many, it is desirable to divide the club into departments. Five women, desiring to study the same general subject, or to unite themselves for any particular purpose, would make a sufficient number to justify the forming of a ,department— whether for study, or philanthropic pur- Poses, experimentsin cooking, or what not, FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Fars That Will Be in Style This Coming Winter. Sealskin for Those Who Have Long Purses—Modish Coats and Wraps —Mufis and Hats. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 6, 1898. The furriers have’their wares all displayed, and from Montreal come models of the furs in which the women will deck themselves during the carnival. One of the mysteries of “openings” is the fact that although one may now determine what furs are to be worn, cloth coats are still kept in the back- ground, and even models of what we may expect in the way of heavy winter wraps are shown only to a favored few. Seaiskin is growing to be the most ex- pensive fur on the market, and it is only a question of time when a sealskin coat or cape will be worth a king’s ransom. In the meantime, while these coats and capes are still within the reach of well-filled purses, it should be remembered that although Per- sian lamb is still the smartest fur, it can- not compare in becomingness to’ almost every shade of hair and skin to sealskin. The newest shapes in coats of either Per- an lamb or sealskin are double-breasted nd cutaway below the waist line, rounding off to form a sort of cutaway polonaise, re- | minding one very much (in spite of the | difference in material) of the half-polo- naise of lace which decorates many of the winter models of gowns from French mo- distes. But if one is going to invest in a sealskin it would be wiser to have one of the double-breasted jackets with reveres and collar lining of chinchilla or any other contrasting fur which one may desire. For if sealskins are to be investments, and it may be that we will never be able to have another, it is best to have as much skin or pelt in that one garment as possible, in or- der that alterations may be made success- fully when capricious Dame Fashion be- gins to laugh at our antiquated though luxurious garment. Reveres of chinchilla, by the way, are much used on coats or capes of either Per- sian lamb or sealskin and are very beauti- ful as well as bright. They do not, how- ever, begin to stand the exposure to wind and weather that sealskin, or even tender lamb, will stand without getting and this should be considered when ng a garment. Chinchilla is a fair- weather fur. Of Persian Lamb. Persian lamb coats were very popular last year, and this year will be worn as much as ever. But last year they were made with a blouse 2ffect. So many of the new French models of gowns still droop slightly in the front that it hardly seems necessary to have a beautiful and exper sive skin sent back to be altered simply because it Is not the very latest cut. But | many fastidious women are having their | coats altered. They are having the back ughtly fitted and the front drawn in, or perhaps fitted snugly, putting on flat | y tails, or perhaps (when expensi is not an item) having the whole skirt of the blouse removed and a cutaway long s put in its place. The w ring judiciously covered w goid or beaded galloon. This galloon is a beauu- | ful gold and silk bre dark, rich fur most attractively. usually a jew- waist to bright- | inting the lily” galloon is not used there is eled belt clasped about 1 en the fur. This sort of * hardly seems necessary, as the beauty of fur needs little trimming, and it is not probable it will be popular for very long. The plain, long serviceable capes of this year are not erry pretty nor are they graceful. They are made much seantier than heretofore and hang In straight folds, which are far from becoming. But to compen- sate us for this there are flounced capes without number, and in every combination of fur possible.” Then, too, even for plain capes, there are reyeres and linings to the collar which may be of some lighter fur which is becoming to the face and softening in its effect. These fur capes with circular flounces are made exactly like the cloth capes which were made up for early au- tumn wear, and which bid fair to be popu- lar throughout the winter whenever a cape is a necessary garment. They are short in front and curve gracefully down until very long, nearly to the knees, in the back. They have about them one or two flounces of fur, sometimes of the same fur as the body of the cape, sometimes a contrastin; skin. For instance, a magnificent mink cape has two flounces of sealskin. The col- lar is also lined with sealskin. The combi- nation of sealskin and mink is a very py one, as each fur sets off the other. Capes edged with a flounce of the same fur are often made, but this is not in especially good taste, especially in the case of seal- skin. It reminds one of velvet gowns trim- med with ruffles of themselves, which 3 barbarism. | Once More in Favor. Astrakhan is wern again, and, although not an expensive fur in itself, it 1s usually seen combined with a more rare fur, the beautiful plucked otter lining the inside of the collar and forming the wide revere of an astrakhan coat, which is short, coming little below the jeweled belt, and which fastens on the lefi side under the revere. Short capes coming just below the shoul- ders are still in favor and are most useful in these days of heavy cloth gowns, when one needs something which can be put on when leaving a house, but cannot, in addi- tion to the weight of the gown, support a heavy wrap as well. These short yokes often have a fitted yoke of one fur, and around this a heavy ruffle or cape of a con- trasting fur. Indeed, it may be given as a good general law to follow that every fur garment should be composed of two varie- ties of fur. Many of the capes have a fit- ted lining of a fur with close hair and are finished with sable or marten tails. Among the short capes the combinations of ermine and astrakhan, or ermine and broad-tail, must not be forgotten. These are simply beautiful with a fitted yoke of broad-taii, or astrakhan, and a collar and border about the yoke of ermine. Ermine is also made up in short capes and evening wraps. Muffs and Hats. In these combinations of fur the muff which {s carried is usually made of the fur which fs used for collar lining and for trim- ming, although sometimes the muff may be of the flaring order of the darker fur, show- ing a lining of the ighter. Muffs are either large and plain or of the variety just de- scribed above. The collars on all fur wraps are without any exception Medici shape, and this gives play for the various linings of contrasting fur. The woman who can afford to wear furs can also afford to wear the proper sort of a For Company Dinner or whenever something extra nice is wanted in the way of cake or dainty dessert, be sure to use Baking Powder It will do its share to make your dinner a perfect success. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. hat with them, and in her hat lies half the secret of the effectiveness of her furs. This should be borne in mind when choosing a head covering. Hats to be worn with furs should always be jaunty, never too large, yet with eter of their own, and there should always be about them some bright note of color which harmonizes with and brightens the fur with which they are worn, MABEL BOYD. —_.__ COLD FEET, How This Disagreeable Chilliness Can Be Avoided. From the Philadelphia Times, A woman whose feet are habitually cold cannot be well. I have heard some of my feminine acquaintances complain of hav- ing feet like ice even in summer, and that means physical disorder. If you cannot keep your feet warm with proper sho and stockings, and in a warm room or even under the warm covers of the bed, your blood is poor or your circulation imperfect. ‘The feet do not receive their share of warm blood, and show their condition by making you uncomfortable. It can be safely said that a large pro- portion of lung diseases are due to cold feet. ities goes to the lungs and con: Asthma arises from the + ain and eye troubles can some traced to habitually cold fe I don’t say that we are for this affli The c: hood, The blood repelled from the extrem- ts them, aly to blame on, because that is not tr is often traced back to c where thin stockings and shc all for growing feet prevented 2 ulation of blood. And s haps wore garters which to do their and when we womanhood the mischief had been fu done. We were then obliged to suffer, if we knew enough,, to mitigate our s ing by such sensible remedies a: and warm bathing, with a proper re for the covering of the feet. Wear woolen, cotton or silk stockings according to y: comfort. If the feet are prone to be dry as well as cold, they should be soaked in hot water for ten minutes every night. thoroughly dried and rubbed with a smd quantity of sweet oil, bestowing spc tention upon the soles. Nothing that can keep the feet comfortable should be consid- ered a trouble, as, ide from the fact of their affecting the physical condition, their relation to the nerves must be considered. Trouble with the feet means a nerve-wear- ing strain. The following has sometimes proved a simple cure for cold feet: Stand erect and gradually lift yourself to the tips of the toes, coming to the natural position in the same easy manner. Repeat this exercise several times each day, and the circulation of the blood must be improved. Diet has something to do with the degree of im- provement, as affitcted women are advised to shun much salted meat, pies and rich puddings. Long abstinence from solld food is dangerous, and over-eating produces a list of diseases, ild- too oper pr had to be tight hed nf ——+e0—__ Why Babies Are Cross. From Demorest’s Mag: It seems almost absurd to advise moth- ers not to pinch bables’ feet, and yet p! s.cians say that much of the fretfuinese and trritaticn of babyhood is due to tight shoes and stockings. Not tight, perhaps, from a grown-up standpoint, but ciently snug to hurt the tender, soft of baby feet. The shoes that are for the very little baby are ofter act instruments of torture because of some slight roughness or pr: If the shoe fit snugly, no matter how soft it is, the sole is sure to press in sen. sitive flesh and irritate the temper, if not actually injure the nerves. Baby fesh is So soft that mothers or nurses often @o not notice how badly the Iittle foot crowded until impeded circulation t story of suffering. And small stockings are as frequently a means of injury as are small shoes. Always buy both shcees and stockings at least one size larger than the so-called “easy fit.” This rule should hold good until the foot has ceased to grow. The result woul! be a generation of healthier, better-tempered and more graceful men and women. Hat Pins. Frem the Philadelphia Times. Now that hat pins are selling for $1,000 downward, the minds of inventive geniuses are turning toward a pin that will stay in the hat, past all danger of falling out. Re- cently there was a patented split that was provided with a little spring which worked by pressure. A very nice hat pin, with a head of am- ber, had an amber fastening accompanying it and fastened by a gold chain. The “fast- ener” was stuck in the hat, so that to lose the hat pin you must lose the hat also. A very ultra little piece of jewelry ts a band of pearls connected with the hat pin by a gold chain. The pearl band ts used as a brooch or as a pin upon the breast. The gold chain dangles from the hat pin and Teakes a pretty bit of finery for the wo- man who likes “fixings.” The band may match the hat pin, and be of any jewels or plain gold. Any device is go04 so long as it holds the pin; and when you reflect that every year there are hundreds of dollars lost in hat pins the economy of a little fastener is easily computed. | off graceful: SCREEN, How Up-to-Date Housekeepers Economize on Space, From the Pittsburg Dispatch So strongly is modern apartment life forcing the necessity for «& nizing: space upon the up-to-date housekeeper that she is obliged to us: every method to obtain it. Many ‘in women, who live and sleep in th do ame room a little cooking there, too the screen their greatest ally tect the couch—their bed by night—from too close inspection. The tiny gas stove and the little dining table may be concealed behind its folds, and it may hide the wash- and and towels. If the home is more am- bitious and there are several rooms, the n hes still its part to play. It may and perhaps will find in It may pro- serve the purpose of a door, and yet not prevent the circulation of air through the narrow parlor-car-like arrangement of rooms. In e of illness it is almost as good as a nurse. It can be set to temper the light, to keep off dangerous drafts, to shut away a bad wall paper pattern from tired eyes that weary of following large geometrical patterns, and in many other ways be made useful If one lives in a large house in the coun- where it is not necessary to economize » by sleeping in the parlor and cook- ing in the dining room, there ts still use for the se m. When one has drawn a chair up by the hearth with a lamp upon th ble at one’s side. a tall th will shut away the shadows gusts that st in through the ment. Elderly ladi nd delicate may be saved many a cold by in the sitting room. In th: screen is almost an absolute door leading to chen, or s pantry. The effect of many a beautiful dining room has b: this vista of cook stove, range or pantry, which a sereen would have concealed. In the hall, too, the screen is a most useful e. It can stand sentinel before the r that leads to the back hall, or that which goes down to the cellar. | Indeed, there are very few halls so arranged that a screen is not almost as much a necessity as it may be an ornament. From the Philadelphia Press ‘The advance gowns of the season show conclusively th> important part buttons are to play. For example, a very smart cc tume of cinnamon brown cloth with a smooth surface had a plain skirt and coat which can best be described as a glorified Newmarket. This opened in front over a brown velvet vest decorat=d with lange rec- tengular metal buttons. These were really only for decoration, as the front closed with hooks and 8 beneath a jabot of age-yellow lace. This color, by ths way, is the proper thing in lace—not cream or butter color, but the peculiar tint taken on by lace which has been in existence many years. The t pa gown and th> tea coat are to be rendered more fascinating than ever by these artistic buttons. Here is a charming instance of what I mean A skirt of dion-kilted gray vetling was mounted pale yellow and wor with a tea ‘ay and yellow brocad the shaping of the ls ionable directoire lin he fronts rounding to a coat-tail back Large pointed revers turned back the top and revealed a vest of old lace. Immense and very beautiful topaz buttons surround- ed by diamonds found a home on the front and sides of this unique creation. You can easily imagine how much these decorations added to the effect. en Dunets the Fashion. From the New York Herald. There comes yet another feminine device of housefurnishing to disturb the masculine mind. Mere man is now accustomed to dozens of sofa pillows, he ceases to trounle himself about center pieces and bureau covers of great elaborateness. He is not prepared, however, for the dunets that promise to overwhelm the prosperous homes of Naw York. A dunet is a n2w sort of bed covering. Pillow shams that are masses of embroid- ery, lace spreads and silk coverlets will be as nothing to it. The dunet is the silk cov- erlet glorified. It is to be the acme of style in Nsw York this winter. Outwardly it is of thin silk, inwardly it ts of goose feathers and about two feet high. It is an adaptation of the German bed- spread, only far more gorgeous. The finest possible silk and the best quality of goose feathers ar: used in its construction. It may be of any color, the only provision being that there must be a large mono- gram in the center. see Why She Left. From the Cleveland Plain Dealer. “Yes, we lost that good girl that I tolg you about.” “What was the trouble?” “Why, she left the water running in the bathtub, and it leaked through and she caught cold. She said she wouldn't stay in a house where they didn’t have water- tight iloors.” THE EDUCATION OF MR. PIPP. In Paris he has the opportunity of enlarging his horizon and of developing an interest in the real purpose of the trip,