Evening Star Newspaper, October 1, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 1, 1898-24 PAGES. Bpectal Correspon f The Bveny NEW YORK, Septembe! I came -flv - minis or dag rs The entri y er. mang are { altogether to righ her fingers into | baker and candle 1 variations ae ppropri The only able in | and fill- in a child’s mou fill two lines, and ly as when they inserted—juvenil: stubby pen eculd make | hair, t grown-up extravagance. ful dress was long orn | ince its day has black silk | ch favor es this autumn. © seasons of black and black and | - Lave added to black clothes and n the silk that once was emed | by every woman, next the wedding gown, | ucst important item of her trousseau. grain silk has to some extent super- | 1 taffeta, and for garnitures wi | iace, chenflle embrotd mie skirt is worn a si moder: XVI_ coat covered with the thistle em- broidery and having large, lace-trimmed revers n which a white tulle front with black stik Black velvet has come and is being used for han costumes for matrons. A recent made with a plain, rich skirt and a bodic composed entirely of stripes of lace upon the velvet. This costume is worn with a white bonnet trimmed with black and white feathers. Black satin cloths, cheviots, satt Venetian cloths and | replin ground are employed for some of the most distingutshed-lcoking tai or cos- tumes. Some of these are brightiy irim- med for general wear, others are adapted for second mourning. A simple, graceful coming under this last category beautifully soft black cashmere. of the round waist plain black camel's ished cashy k fabres with @ of a The front is laid in folds, bor- dered cn each side with a band of sill: and chenille embroidery in leaf and flower pat- | terns. cart thence around the hem. A line of this same embroidery is down the front of the skirt and The narrow folded ed belt is of black silk: the sleeves are plain which, with its glitter and the Shops by storni. Some than those In colors, one mind owning a skirt whose short tat rt is laid in deep pleats, an lack lace striped with lines is of black velvet ribb: Chenille and Jet. A much more dressy costume has the | large thistle de- | nille and jet. These nel and round away upon giving the effect of a to the bac GLOV SOME NEW but Hooks Will Be This Year. afl ond Express e something worth lo: fall when they That del ld large enow that ovelties; Little Else is-in here never what change has been made 1s ad distinet, and, withal, entirely stitution of “jeweled hooks” for uring iron shoe hooks and clasps | and tight, with slight fullne ders and slight flare at the wrists. are made with @ more | biack toque ping skirt of the French moa- | 8:o0the et the shoul- A small worn. Costumes for heavier mourning are made of fi black henrietta cloth: of eudora cloth, which is sir to Nenrietta; of serge, black whipcord and nun’s veiling. The amount of crape employed varles from ja mer ading a shaped flounce to the en panel of the skirt or the whi upon the waist narrow crape revers and a broad crap: vest with epaulettes. } An elaborat mourning frock for house j Wear is of black armure with folds of | crape, alternately wide and narrow, form- irg points upon the skirt. The bodice ts with a era Yoke in three points, of ‘hich the mi cne ts deep enough to of of green embroid- al- glove DS More slate. ery light red 1s u: ‘ood judgment and capital result ained from th« use with caution, ly cannot be ¢ mminent color h 1 amp owing it present a as any glove laven who admire ght in the 1 uch a pi , how- n Gold points and 1a contrast in Other colors pink. purple gloves should liant contrasts to be nk and light green are S well us a darker shade of e © feminine glove a thing of |} Purple and beaver and lavende i Be ne it ceatease itis 11a (iene Demver Blowesl wnowa elaouae;andae: beauty which shines ir ae aay. | im color a trifle lighter than straw, pass predecessor of a year 4, Imagine a deli- | under the technical name of “Faucette ‘ 1 glove of a beaver or light blue | They mentioned last in the list of wo- .the deep- embroidery on the back of the . and you have the very latest apparel for women. 4 joy to the hearts of mos! . to know they will ity of lacing their gloves, pting the prosaic system of if anything, but hooks will be ir on women's gloy But- are distinctly passee, and nks, the men. AS to the embroidery, or as the knowing ones call it, it will ral the style known to our 1 the matter of the three con- I bars. Wise improvement has made in the size of the points, and will be very smail and tasteful. prevailing style in colors has devel- y f cour: clasps have been bequeathed, with th to and probably none will. This, the as it should be, since unlim- thus be given for ring. To be sure, it ts any one color held the age, but such an all-star heme of color contrasts 2 seen be the w will goth have ad- h render them, if not neces- least acceptable. “Liege” col Greek to the ed, as colors very pretty, re is a glove in three Jeweled hooks and em- n with it in blue, pink, nd slate. loring 1s the “admiral"—navy ame SUE! with contrast- nk, blue, lavender, gold and i embroidery secures as rich t as could well be de- it is simply stunning, and will make 1 for popularity. colorings in light blue will & shades of pink, green, sky ni deep pink—a much more dressy than the “admiral,” and, with the nk embroidery and hooks, a very 1 creatton. ylain black glove should be mention- re since it will have the most artistic ¥ of any glove to be found. Pink and >, probably, the most striking to thi color, but helotrope, light nd light blue will also be used. tre’ glove is brown, and on the woman who can wear the color very becoming and handsome. Such fetch- ing contrasts as pink, blue, purple and cop- per place the glove on @ higher level than it has heretofore occupted, and that ts say- ing a great deal, because the brown glove does not lack for popularity these days. \ Another shade of blue is found tn the an’ colorings. Betng so much lighter than the “admiral,” it carries a contrast- r of deep red with excellent effect son's favorites. Blue always has immense | gene aer n and the contrasts which have been made with green and brave points and hooks render both effects very pleasing. The “Gfronette” ts a gray glove. In nei- ther the gl nor suede leather is the gray glove so satisfactory as some others, and its popularity ts not on the increage. It fs not easy to say, though, what effects light blue, lavender, light green, and espectally pink embroidery will have on this vaciliat- 1 no doubt become one of the sea- | men's gle more on account of their re- cent manufacture than from any lack of distinctive merit. They are made with purple, blue, pink, green and tan points and hooks. So much for the be adie As to the men, nearly so lucky in the y. The only change worth Mentioning lies in the return of embroid- ered poin' With evening gloves the points have never been entirely done away with, but for a time, so far as walking gloves were concerned, it looked as though they will not matter of varie the 1 been permanently relegated to oblivion. That their return will be short- lived there can hardly be a doubt. The plain Paris points are in every way suited for 4 man’s glove as embroidery properly accompanies a woman’: Suede gloves m tan and slate will con- tinue their popularity. Despite their faults, which those who wear them know, there is no denying that they have a certain gen- teel quality, partteularly the slate shade, which no other glove possesses. For ordinary Street wear, tans, browns and reds are eminently proper, and in the style of make-up the ¢ have under- gone no change whatever. plain points are the sole r Those who own evening gloves with black embroidery will feel reassured to know that they are not on’ uted, but are making bids for popularity again. One make a mis however, in for evening. Two clasps and quisites, regulation glove with seams asp, will do for any ette sewn, and with rough usage, leathe: one ¢ such as driving, bicycling and golfing. These gloves will be worn in the red and tan shades, with possibly a slight prefer- ence for the red. a A Wife's Weird Vision. pm the Seattle Post-Intelligencer. A startling psychological experience was coincident with the fatal dynamite explo- fon In the Coney mine, near Skykomish, early Wednesday morning. As told in the Post-Intelligencer of that morning's issue, one of the two men killed was R. W. Rob- irson. At precisely the time he was stun- ned by the concussion hts young wife. sleeping in Renton, had a vivid dream of her husbani being killed in an explosion. She awoke tn great agitation, and was so sensibly impressed by the vision that she aroused her mother, Mrs. Jones, and told her of the eccurrence. In spite of all as- surances to the contrary, the young wifa insisted that her husband had been killed, and it was In the midst of her lamenta- tons that a message was brought from Skykomish telling briefly of the accident. Mrs. Robinson reached here but last Sun- day fron Pittsburg. Pa., and was staying a few days in Renton with her mother, Mrs. Jones, before joining her husband at he mine. The widow is not over twenty- three years of age, and has a baby about | three years old. The dream is described | as having been extremely realistic, and | probably came to Mrs. Robinson just after the explosion and before her husband’s heart ceased beating. He lived three hours before interial hemorrhage caused death, and @ part of that time his mind was de- Urtously active. It was then undoubtedly that the vigorous horror and imagery of tds own mind was transmitted to the sen- sitive brain of his wife. } i popular. | made | i reach the waist, forming a vest. A narrow ruffle of crape edges the yoke and the dou- ble epaulettes on the shoulders. Cloths in New Colors. Tailor gowns other than black appear both in the striking colors which continue to be such a feature of dressmaking, and in the soft, shadowy tones of late so littie seen. A bluish gray called pewter and a pinkish gray known as “Greuze” have been taken into favor, and are seen combined with white or pink, or with the more bril- liant tones of burnt orange, canary, crim- son, plum color or deep petunia. The unlined tailor skirts now in yogue are lighter than those of past years, bu the gain is partly offset by the heavy sil facing re ry to give the flare. The street-sweeping length is maintained by some dressmakers, with its effect enhanced by a three-quarter-length coat, which is it- sclf trimmed with a sh flounce; but the skirt that finds most favor, except for cer- se emonious occasions, is a gracefully sloped affair, just touching the ground behind and not at all in front or at the si€es. Such a skirt is at its best when fitting tightly to the hips, and thence broadening gradually. It may well be crossed on the left hip, be seamless, and be trimmed with a flounce wide at the back but sloping to not more than an inch and a half in front. With this skirt a coat rather narrow in front and with a deep basque at the buck is in harmony. Tf such a dress be built of one of the new cloths in solid color, it will be sufficiently trimmed with machine stitching and a fancy vest of bright plaid or of white gros grain. i Silk and Wool Novelties. Lace effects are woven into many of the silk and wool novelties, and the fashion which prevailed in the summer of emboss- ing Jace figures on muslins has been car- ried forwar@ into winter dress, things be- ing changed which must be changed. A beautiful dress of national blue cloth has its skirt circled with three rows of black Chantilly, while large Chantilly figures are scattered irregularly between, upon and above the lace bands. The bodice has soft velvet folds coming from the shoulders and meeting in a knot on the bosom. Converg- ing to this knot from the sides of the bod- ice and from the waist are set two rows of Chantilly like those upon the skirt, while above and on the sleeves are lace sur A picture hat with long black strich plumes is the appropriate accom- animent ‘gingerbread work” in one day to be onthe ome more rampant who sees neither The passicn for skirt decorations seems decline, the next to be than before. The womar utility nor beauty in dresses tortured with scraps and scallops of lace here, ruches of uifon there, pleacings of silk somewhere nor in frills and flounces. puffs and rrings galore, with a wilderness of rib- bons puckered, frizzed and zigzagged till the sight of them makes one giddy, y » what comfort she can from the prob- that in the near future ‘rials will not be si © small, fus. mpler and more are seen on the b Neckwenr Sclections. Aside from “gingerbread,” the chief dan- ger at present to the inartistic woman arises from frilly neckwear. The chiffon or lace boa is the prettiest ornament pos- sible for the woman to whom it is at all pretty. But latge, expanding collarettes or fichus and immense ruches make short, stout women look like bisons. Under these circumstances it is one of the little ironie: of fate that such women strenuously cra) these th zs. ‘Vhree-quarter-length English coats ap- pear among the outdoor garments, fasten- ed_usuall. > with two rows of military buttons. y striking Louls XVI coats are cut with open fronts, showing a vest of silk or a silk waist with a lace jabot. Capes are not especially numero} but picturesque s in red br or old blue have been seen; some of them with plastron fronts and coliar and epaul- ettes of black moire. Driving capes are made of military blue broadcloth. graceful drapery t gowns, THE the Habit of Purloining Articles for Souvenirs. From the Chicago Tribune. “Kleptomania,” remarked a well-known club and society woman of Chicago not long ago, “is a decidedly overworked word, and stealing an ugi But the present ad or fancy for collecting ‘lucky souvenirs’ —abstracting them surreptitiously from the houses of your friends and acquaintances— surely partakes of the character of one or both. “A year or two ago the fad began. A popular Chicago woman remarked one day to an intimate friend: “Oh, iny dear, did you know that I have begun to collect souvenirs for luck. They do say,” and she laughed as women do when not quite sure of the approval of thelr con- sciences, ‘that to steal a souvenir brings one the best of luck. So I borrowed,’ with Women | another nervous ripple of laughter, ‘the tiny statue which stood upon your library ta- ble. “The woman of whom the statue had been ‘borrowed’ felt ke remonstrating in no gentle terms, for that statue had a sou- venir value to her as well, and she really cherished it. But the borrower was an old and well-loved friend. She was taken by surprise, and hardly knew how to act, su she let the matter pass in silence. Perhaps by this time she has begun to collect sou- yenirs in this manner herself, for the fad seems to have spread fast und furiously, and about seven out of every ten people jon oné meets are afflicted with it.” es,” declared another Chicago woman who has a wide and varied acquaintance, “I'm sorry to say it, but it is growing ac- tually unsafe to expose anything pretty which has no excessive commercial valu in Chicago. Women take whatever they fancy under the cover of the new ‘lucky souvenir’ fad, and, although they seldom ract anything of great cost or worth, 1 mannerof dainty and simple things with which the average woman surrounds hersel sappear constantly. I had a little silver vx knife, for instanee, which cost only a aple of dollars, but which had been given by ad nd, and one day I saw a woman of my acquaintance who is suffering severely from the new fancy eyeing it with admiring glances. I feared for its safety, but could not well remark upon the Intea- tions of which I s' ted her. When she she calmly picked up the knife and slipped {t into the front of her waist. ‘Lucky souvenir, my dear,’ she told me carelessly, although she really had the grace to blush a little, ‘and it’s so pretty that I shall enjoy it doubly.’ Yes,’ I responded, a Hitle pointedly, ‘I notice the pretty things are usually chosen for the so-called “lucky souvenir.” I’ve lost a few such trifles myself.’ “Well, she answered, blushing a little more, ‘when you come to my house you must help yourself to something, too.’ And so the matter ended. But it’s an out- rageous fad, in my opinion, and the women who indulge in it, like the college boys who used to canal bear away your prettiest and most cherished stick pins and fang be- fore your eyes, apparently consider that to take a thing in plain signe or, if they do not this, to tell you of it afterward, quite straightens the matter out, both socially and morally.” +e. ‘o Clean Black From the London Mail. Put in a saucepan a pair of old black “shiny” kid gloves, two teaspoonfuls of ammonia and a pint and a half of water. Boil until the gloves are-reduced to a hard ball and the liquid reduced to one-half. Cover an ironing board with some black material to prevent the lint from the sheet adhering to the silk. With a piece of black material dipped in the Mquid rub the right side of the silk thoroughly, then turn and press it with a moderately hot silk. iron on the wrong side and hang it smooth- ly on a line until well aired. This will give old silk a gloss and firmness almost equal to new silk. HOUSEHOLD HINTS oe. Th Wrile the “penny-inthe-stot” has attain- ed marked pre-eminerite inthis country, it is as nothing compared to. the versatility displayed abroad by this modern Franken- stein. In England it is figured in the like- ness of a man who ig! pro¥ided with slots corresponding to varighs pdfts of the body. If one has a headache, a cain inserted into the slot in the head elicits; after a proper Fause, a prescription ‘for the evil in ques- tion, Pains in the stémach, chilblains on the toes, affections of the; heart and de- rangements of the liver are all taken into consideration and carefully prescribed for. This wonderful mechénism/does not make up its own prescriptions, but the address of the nearest druggist is given. On the rail- Way trains in Austria may be found these wonderful machines, made up with due consideration for the wants of travel-stain- ed and weary passengers. A penny-in-the- slot there and, hey, presto! a towel of in- finttesimal proportions—but still a towel-- two leaves of soap, not quite the size of postage stamps, and a few other simple toilet accessories. If some arrangement of this kind, suited to relieve the constant re- quirements on the house-mother, could Le introduced into the home, w! a _reilef to that overburdened individual! Dispensed in this simple manner, court plaster, cook- ies, safety pins, strings, rags for kite tails or cut fingers, pencils, collar buttons and clean handkerchiefs might be evolved at will, while the erstwhile wearied mother thus released, could join at least one more club for social, recreation or intellectual improvement. A tour of the great carpet stores deter- mires the fact that the new fall carpets are nearly all dark, and nearly all start- lingly gorgeous. In the rebound from the light, delicately colored and patterned car- pets with which we have furnished our houses in late years, Dame Fashion has gone to quite the other extreme, and the would-be customer finds herself halting be- tween what she has come to believe the expression of the canons of good taste, and the nondescript brilliancy and pattern of a carpet that “swears at every other bit of furniture.” Green {s the prevailing body color of the new carpets, while flowers of all shades and sizes run riotously uncheck- ed. Cabbage roses, dahlias and conyven- tional garlands of pinks and poppies afford abundant cholee of design. One hardly needs, however, to remind the housewife of frugal mind that no carpet shows every fcotfall or bit of dust so quickly as one of dark groundwork, and that a large pattern can never be ripped and turned to advan- tage. With these points borne in mind, a compromise between the extreme of fashion and the light, graceful effects to which we have grown accustomed, may ‘occasionally be found by much seeking. Many of the new carpets come now with a border the same width as the carpet breadths. One of the daintiest ways of making up the little individual butter pats for the table is in corrugated rolls. The butter paddles are kept in ice water until thor- oughly chilled. hen a plece of butter about as large as a hickory nut is taken up on one, until about an eighth of then dexterously lifted at rolled over, forming the dainty, crum roll, These are tossed in a jar of ice water as fast as made, emerging therefrom crisp nd fresh. If the family is large, and it 1s desirable to keep a supply of the butter balls ahead, they may be kept for two or three days at a time by changing the water dally and taking care that the sup- ply of ice is not exhausted. an inch thick, one end Whole wheat gems are always an ac- ceptable addition to the atitumnal break- fast. To make them) mix together two cups of whole wheat flour, one-half tea- spoonful salt and one tablespoonful sugar. B the yolks of two eggs until lemon colored and thick, and the whites until tiff. Add one cup of milk to the beaten yolks, end then a oup of water. Stir this into the é@ry mixture, Add the whipped whites, stirring carefully, so as not to break the mush and bake in hissing hot gem pans thirty minutes. Irons should never be put away when amp or sticky, and should never be left, s many thoughtless maids are apt to do, on the reservoir at the back of the range, where the escaping steam séon rusts them. When the weekly ironing is finished, scrape the irons {f at all sticky, with a thin knife, and rub them on a rough cloth moistened with beeswax or kerosene. Wipe thor- ovghly on a clean, dry cloth and set upon elf or In the jroning table drawer. Many good housekeepers particular about their tools, draw paper bags over the irons when not in use, ‘To the conscientious young mother, torn between the necessity of “adding line upon Ine and precept.upon precept” to her off- spring with no apparent results, and the fear that constant iteration will deterior- ate into nagging, comes the soothing as- sur nee from an authority on children that upon line’ is all right and must be followed up. The structure of the young brain, he declares, precludes the possibility of its keeping in mind our warnings and injunctio nd repetition fs, therefore, a necessity, A refreshing drink for the invalid whose sticn has to be respected is iced toast slices of stale bread are pitcher and a quart or so of clear, boiling water poured over them. When cool, place on the ice until thoroughly chilled. When ready to serve, pour off in a glass, sweeten a little 1f desired and add a thin slice of lemon. Sufferers from rheumatism may be in- terested to know that a successful antt- dote may be found in bee stings. This is the remedy always applied in Malta, for severe cases, and one that is said to give great relief. Asafoetida is said to be a valuable rem- edy for insomnia occurring In the aged. -_—_— The Short Skirt. Frem the Boston Transcript. The short skirt is the thing of the day. It is remarkable the extent to which it is worn by women of fashion. Golf and the bicycle seem to have brought about this in- novation. Women are beginning to find out the comfort they can have in this sen- sible and becoming short skirt, at other times than when playing gol! or riding the wheel. Many women dress {a this fashion exclusively at their country homés, the men also appearing sometimes, even at din- ner, in their golf costumes. ‘The women go about the place dressed this wi all day, taking solid comfort in the agsence of long skirts, and may be seen driv ng to the sta- on in the afternoon wearing a chic tailor- made suit of cloth or linen, made with a short skirt or Eton jacket. “With a pretty vilor hat and an immaculats shiruw woman never appears to better advantage than when so attired. I have heard several women complain that they really dread going in town, as they have to put on a long skirt, which seems so awkward after the jaunty short one. The short skirt is very extensively worn.at gle fashtonable summer resorts. The sumnyr girl finds it very convenient to be prepaged at any mo- ment for a gume of galf or ;ennis, a walk or bicycle ride. It is ;just,; che thing for mountain climbing, consequently is seen almost exclusively in; the; Adirondacks. Many women are wearing them for travel- ing. One stylish young we¢man recently wore a very pretty golf costime on a trip of two or three weeks, traveling in the Adirondacks and down the 3t. Lawrence. The climax was reached when she actually wound ap the journey at the staid and dig- nified Windsor Hotel in. Mortrel. She came home enthusiastic gver the.,nost pleasant trip she had ever taken in her life. ———~+ 24 — Autumn Tailor-Made Gowns. From the Woman's Home Companion. A number of new fallorgnade gowns show a great deal of stitching on bands that are applied, anf in eccllars, revers, cuffs and belts. Some of then: have stitch- ing in a contrasting color, but those of bet- ter style are done in self-color. Buttons are a feature on street costumes, and are used in small numbers of good size or are ut on in quantities of very mall size. rass buttons of tiny size set very close tegether are much used on #treet dresses tor misses and young women, Very nar- row gold braid, a mere thread, follows stitched bands on the skirt and waist, where brass buttons are worn. Belts on street dresses have lost their cfushed fold- et look, and are severely plain, fastened with a severe dull clasp or ribbon bows made from braid or ‘stift ribbon that may serve a3 a trimming for the gown. patted down with the other’ FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Materials Suitable for Dress and Utility Wear. Hlaminated Effects in Tweeds ana Poplin as Well as Silk and Wool. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 29, 1898. Why does one see so few gowns of nov- elty goods, and why are those made of the most inartistic combinations of silk and wool which can be found? For there is great danger in choosing these beautiful changeable gowns. A pattern which at first sight Is most magnificent will some- times pall upon the eye after it has been worn but a few weeks, while another, which at first sight scems too dark and quiet to show its real costliness and worth, often grows more attractive upon « longer acquaintance. Chosen with proper care, nothing !s handsomer for a winter gown than a mix- ture of silk and wool. It will wear long enough to justify its first cost, an@ will { wear its look of distinction to the end. Of course, it will not take the place of a run- about gown, nor would it be suitable for marketing and walking tours, but for af- ternoon wear, for receptions, or for any of the many occasions upon which a hand- some gown is needed it is most admirable. It is far richer and more serviceable than troadcleth, much more suitable for our winter climate than silk, and altogether should be appreciated at ite true worth and much worn during the coming season. Setting aside the really admirable and sensible qualities of novelty goods, it may be frankly stated that it has come to the front by the efforts of the Parisian cos- tumers. who Jong for a change from plain cloth. The combinations of colors are truly bewildering. It is needless to say that black is always one of the partners to every combination. In the new crepons, which are considerably modified from those we knew, the black usually appears in a bay- adere effect of raised cheniile upon the body of the mixture of silk and wool,which is often changeable in effect. In the be: tiful effects of a raised pattern of flow or leaves in changeable green or red th irregular background is black and silky. e exquisite materials are known as toned jacquards, but they have more colors thar that, 2s alm every green ¢r red shown has a changeable sheen. “Changeable,” by the way, is not the word by which they are now described; “iJlumi- nated” is the proper adjective when you £¢ into a siop and want a changeable effect. And everything 1s illuminated; even pop- Nns and tweeds come in this changeable, iridescent effect which they dub “illumi- nated.” Two-Toned Striped Goods. Everything has a stripe, which either be raised or plain, serpy ht, and which often crosses cloth in two directions. may or of the in beautiful examples of this were seen black and golden brown. Sometimes in these goods the blac the most promi- rent color, and the silky brown formed the backgrourd; scmetimes it was vice versa, and brown eloth was set off by lines ot silky black in bayadere effects. An illu minated serpentine, which — combined changeable green and brownish . with a narrow line of black runnir through at irregular inter was a god example of the present designs, but in ar- tistic merit it does not compare with the golden browns with bayadere lines ot black. By the way, brown and black (a bright brown), military blue and black, and forest green and black are the most popu- lar combinations of colors in cloth, or pvelty mixtures that can be found. Which being interpreted, means that whatever, you do you must have more than one color in your gown. Common sense dictates that two colors will be enough, but fashion does not know where to stop, and one may coats reminding one a little of that worn by. Joseph. Broadcloths, though not to be mentioned In the same category of favor as silk and wool combinations, are yet very much worn, for most women like to have at least’ one good standby in a cloth gown. They are not dependent upon broadcloth however. The modern Venetian cloth re- sembles ft Very much, ot aS exper and w quite as well, while zibelin back either in slors handsome plaids of black and red, and purple, black and blue or black and green. There are also nety corded zibelines which come highly recommended. mere is back in full force this rougher than last se resemblance to th ago. A drape rev English look in spi like a covert on one Ss a strong s of a deci ite, which b of its French ide and a other. It is warranted to wear like iron, and when one is tired of one side it is « necessary to have the vown turned wear it on the other. It ts really an ex, lent investment for a cloth gown which is likely to see hard service. Speaking of reversible mind the Scotch flannel: tennis and golf. They are t cloth to . Which are sold for ick, soft and them and learn They may be had blue, brown or black, and on the ide are a bright Scotch plaid. Wool Fabrics for All Uses. Illuminated covert cloths are a novelty and take away from this staid material some of its sameness. Illuminated poplins are also shown and add a new combination to this always beautiful and serviceable material. Heather mixtures are made up in heavy Scotch goods into bicycle skirts, rainy day suits and many other sensible combinations demanded by the women of the day. The heather mixtures are only just becoming known, and every one who is likely to need a cloth which will not shrink and which may be worn in all weathers is advised to look at them. The dark yet artistic shades in which they come are very attractive as well as serviceable. Plaids bid fair to be less popular thi bayadere effects this season, yet, of course, there are many plaids to be had, and the newest bear a litte fleck of bright color in the stripe which crosses them; technical- ly, it is known as a “nub” of color. Al- r with those who tr. their excellent qualities. milita: though plaids will not be generally worn, yet some very smart gowns intended for wear in the country have just been made up of large broken plaids. They are made , with the new trailing si it in the back, and a ugh , often with litle postillion piaits in the back. Cheviots appear among utility cloths and even the tweeds are dubbed “illuminated,” and ure really what they purport to be. The new tweeds are really excellent and come in such pretty patterns that one is not reminded of the caricatures of tourists who travel second-class. Nothing could be more, suitable for a waveling or knock- about gown than the new tweeds, and they are earnestly recommended to the attention of every woman who is lucky enough to have ahead of her a winter of travel ana change of scene. MABEL BOYD. ——— In Forgiving Mood. (Copyright, 1898, Life Publishing Company.) a = “Do you recognize me, sir?” “TI do not.” “I expected as much. I am the wretched man who eloped with your daughter five years ago. Take her back, sir, and all will be forgiven.” Cleveland’s Baking does the work just every time Powder > 3 > > 3 3 > right That's why all the leading Teachers of Cookery use and recommend it. ARE OF KID GLOVES. If Put on Properly They Last Four Times as Long. Frem the Chicago Tiwcs-Herald “There are three things,” saith the prov- erb, “which can only be managed by coax- ing—a kid glove, a fire and a man.” Certainly all three require gentile meth- ods. Rough handling $s especially disas- trous to kid gloves; jerking them on is cer- tain to tear them. Always put on a pair of new kid gloves for the first time long enough before they are to be worn to al- low of due deliberation in the task. Much depends upon the way in which this is done. When you purchase a pair of fine gloves insist that they shall be fitted in the store; then if there are any flaws they will be detected before the gloves are paid for and taken a Cheap gl should never be store. Some of the best shops keep a good line of gloves at low prices, which are well worth buying for common wear. They e strong and well made, though not fine, and serve excellently well for shopping and sare always a risk, and bought except at a reliable morning walks or for bad weather. In putting on a glove always be careful to get each finger straight. Coax each ore on by rubbing gently between finger and thumb, and do not draw on the thumb until the fingers are down to the very ends In taking off turn the wrist over the ngers and take hold of the ends of the rs through the wrist; it wears a gi J adly to pull it off by catching at the Pull the gl shape aware carefully. silk to ch shade, and mend as nasa k appears. The old proverb, “a stitch me sav nine, is especially appro- priate to gloves. Glove mending is de work, which requires both skill 1 terity, and when well done ps ad- mirably for the pains taken. ove unets to every toilet powder should form tcher is anothe at American moch- ct that they daughters in the pretty glove French women si prs fail sadly in the r. instruct their not of putting on their gloves, art merican girls,” they say, “come down stairs pulling their gloves on as they go. Now, a French woman never thinks of leaving her room until she has put on her gloves any more than she would come out buttoning her shoes. This is why a Paris- ienne’s gloves la: her four times as long do an American's.” Buttoning gloves should never be done in a hurry. The wrist should be ly and carefully pulled straight, and th t= tons insinuated gently into the holes. T a glove buttoner always; it ruins both the buttonholes and the finger ends te button them without. The loop buttoner is better than the ordinary hooks. When you buy a new pair of glo ways sew the buttons on before w then the annoyance of having the butt dropping off wher be avoided. If ful to lace them evenly, hook. This is as nec with gloves than with and is just as disastrous to the as of the other. ry or more es or a bodice, fit of one ++ Smart Umbrellas, From the Philadelphia Pr The woman who gives a birthday gift this autumn wil) want to give an umbrella The woman who receives the gift will want to receive an umbrella—the fall showing so thoroughly delightful. If you are choosing one fashionable umbrella at reasonable leck among the tinted wood sticks. With the exception of the enchanting handles which j. w.lers have put forth these tinted wood affairs are the smartest of the secson, There is simply no describ‘ng thex:. You must look at them for yourself. Be sure, by the way, to select one in which the silk matches the predominant tene in the wood or combines effectively with it. The Dresden knob and other china knobs are out this year. Silver knobs, bars, ete., are still used, but rather less than last season. Serpents, lizards and animal heads appear less frequently also. Rough wood handles studded at random with little globules of silver half the size of a pea make another line of odd sticks. Amethyst cabochons set in silver knobs are very new and clever. Turquoise ca- bochons embedded in a small gold ball are wonderfully lovely, but out of the reach of mest purchasers. Then, there are bone and ivory, cut tinged and tinted in various ways, which make delightful handles. Onyx combines delightfully with gold and silver in a number of the very newest, and other transparent minerals are equally charming mounted in the same way. ——__-+ e+ _____ Navy Hatband Cushio From the Philadelphia Press. In soft cushion fashions nothing is so popular just now as a covering made of navy hatbands sewn together, the gilt let- tering being so arranged that they show off to striking advantage. A girl with a wide naval acquaintance can collect enough bands for a‘series of cushions, and which may be not only ornamental and patriotic but instructive. The plilows are sized ac- cording to the vessel, bands belonging to the first-class battle ships being used to cover the biggest cushion. The others may be graded as the boats are graded, the smallest sporting the ribbons of whatever ranks as smallest in the fleet. No more timely fashion than this could be imagined. It fills not one, but two long-felt want coming at a time when women were year: ing for some new way to express their pa- triotism only less soulfully than they were yearning for some new way of covering their sofa cushions. In face of all this it seems basely practical to refer to such a thing, but it is nevertheless true that pil- lows so covered are anything but conducive to comfort or slumber. —__—_-2-______ Corsets. From Harper's Bazar. The new corsets are quite different in shape from those that were fashionable last year. The new skirts are so close-fit- ting that it is quite necessary to have a corset that fits close over the hips, and the short-waisted corset is of course impossibic Straight frcnts are still worn as low busted as possible and jong over the hips, with more curving in at the waist. This is a model that is most becoming to stout fig- ures, and is not unbecoming elther to slen- der women. For evening gowns the models ere much the same—oniy a lttle shorcer over the nips. The great difficulty in New ‘York has been that almost gil the best- shaped corsets were high priced. Now there are so many different chapes to chocse from, even among the cheaner ones, that by taking time'to be well fitted it 1s possible to find what ts satisfactory for comparatively little money, It is not pos- sibly to buy a satisfactory corset for a stout woman for ncthing, and it ts far bet- ter to economize on some other ariicle of clothing and buy better corsets, want a price | for perhaps se ALIS WARNING OF A’ LIMP. It Should Never Re Allowed to Go or Ynheeded. From the Youth's Comprnion. There are two extremes, into one or the other of which many mothers fall—that of oversolicitude for their children, a fussiness and a tendency to coddle them and to run with them to the doctor for every ache or pain; and that of carelees inattention to a child's complaint of feeling poorly or to in- Juries received in rough play. In the first case the child ts in danger of developing into an irritable, selfish valetu- dinarian, while the mother, by her wort: destroys the happiness of what ought to be | the sweetest part of a woman's life, and jis in danger also of driving herself into a j condition of nervous iny On the other hand, ally dismis: wit second thought every complaint by ber child of discomtot or pain, or who thinks it will make her boy ;™ore manly {f she schools herself to | betray sympathy for him in his physical troubles, runs the serious risk of ignuging me incipient ill, which, if taken in time, idism. who habitu- a may be arrested, but if neglected may de- velop into a Mfelong affiction Of these two extremes the former is at- tended with by far the more serious ¢ r to the child, but the latter is not without its pertis. here is one symptom, ally, that should never be passed over lightiy in a child, and that is a limp—eep {that is intermittent. It may be not! more serious than a slight sprai stone & or perhaps mere footsor [ness from unwonted tramps over rough | ro: ay be due to a litte muscular | $0 r rheumatism, or to a passing | stiffness in a joint resulting fr ex: jercise; but—and this is where its serious- j ness lies—tt may be the earliest symptom of hip disease. This painful and crippling disease oft indeed usually, begins with an apparently insignificant limp, which comes and g¢ 6 be other symptom of the malady st It is often attributed by the ‘al mon ore y ows Itself, ‘ents, and to one or other ases or to a sim nally unaccom | sometimes by the physician the above mentioned ¢ ple habit, and as it is u ned by pain it is negie until other sever symptoms show, per late for cure, what the real trou A limp that comes and goes repeatedly, especially when the child cannot explain why he walks lame, is a danger eignal that even the strorgest advocate of the “tough- ening” system ought to heed. —_—__-2-— to Teach Children. ti ps is, iH From the London Mail. A mother sees an entirely new side of her child's character when the lttle one is with other children. A selfish or domineering or obstinate spirit, utterly unknown before to the nt, ts apt to manifest ttsel With older people a child ts mor restrained, but with little or of people his own age he feels perfectly free to do as he pi Companionship is an excellent thing for children. It rot only makes them 4 Ses, ier, but they are observing little mortais, and quick to imitate. The rough will try to be gentle to his timid little cousin if he is stirred by the idea that he must protect her; the little tomboy will try to follow the gentle graces of her pet friend, seeing how | much she is loved for her quiet sw: while the bashful, shrinking litth w ive to emulate the strength &o00d sense of her dively comrade. Let the mother welcome her children’s little guests cordially, observe their characters, and en- courage her children to follow their yir- tu A little pained expression at some dis- courtesy will often do more than a severe scolding, and a quick, che a “Thank you,” or “How thoughtful, dear,” will work wonders. Praise freely the kind acts; show the r 4t path to the ignorant little one, anxir to please; reprove gently the thoughtless one. Littie boys should very early be encour- aged to protect their sisters and mothers; they should be allowed to pay the omnibus or tram fare, and to hold tickets; they love nsibility. Accept their little services eratefully, and never forget to say “Thank you They are conscious of trying to please, and appreciate acknowledgment. —_-+e-- The Army Button, Frem the New York Herald. The girls have worn the army button in every conceivable place and manner. They have been made into jewelry of all kinds, hat pins, s‘ick pins, brocches, belts, belt buckles, shirt waist sets, and even used on the tailor-made gowns to fasten the whole front of the tight-fitting waists. It re- mained a question what to do with them next. This question has been settled. The bu tens are now transformed into garter or buckles. This was probably the sort of a girl who had already covere self from hea and souvenirs | 2 couple left with which what to do. It is a bright idea after all, as they make Very handsome clasps, and when fastened to the red, white and blue garter ribbons, which have only five elastic cords at in- tervals throughout their entire length, leav- ing a wide ruffled margin, they do not seem entirely inapprcpriate. ‘They certainly in- tensify the impression of patriotism in the wearer. her- mblems friends and had e did not know ————__+-—_ —__ For the Handkerchief. From the New York Herald. There will be a new attachment to your autumn belt, my lady. It consists of a slight silver arrangement made to hold a handkerchief. It will be worn on the right side, directly beneath the arm. It will be made of oxidized or filigree silver. ‘The question of where to place the hand- kerchief has long been a subject for discus. sion. To carry it tucked up the sleeve has long been out of style—to place it in the purse gives the ugly bulged appearance that cannot be tolerated. To completely hide the bit of pretty lace from view is totally out of the question, but to have the dainty edges peeping from beneath the belt when- ever the right arm is raised or lowered meets with the approval of the feminine sex. The handkerchief for this fall will be odd and pretty. It will be madeof the thinnest, sheerest material possible, and uemmed neatly quite near the edge. One corner is embroidered with a large and heavy mono- = heavier the embroidery and the jarger the initials the more des‘rable is the handkerchief. It is fastened directly in the center by the new belt clasp and is tucked in so that the corner containing the monogram shows plainly. Some handkerchiefs are embrotd- ered with a regimental decoration or the stars and stripes, and some girls have the _ Signals of yachts or clubs on thei;