Evening Star Newspaper, September 24, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 1898-24 PAGES. i (Copyright the International Literary and fee.) Rpectal Correspondence of The Evening Sta NEW YORK, September 23, 1898. The most novel materials offered for wo- men’s wear this autumn are the multi- toned crepons, in which two, three or half a dozen colors are made to gleam with a wonderful iridescence. Among the happiest combinations are pale green and violet with a flicker of gold, and copper-red and black, over which comes a bloom of purple or a tawny light of yellow and brown. Gold nd black and gold and copper-red are al- st equally effectiv Two-toned effects are seen in the poplins, but the best of the poplins are in plain colors, rich cardinal tones being dominant, | with emerald, a begonia red, orange and | stical violet as dangerous rivals. | id petunia and royai blue have a large + owing. The soft shade called virgin | e bids fair to be popular, but nas not | splaced the lighter porcelain blues. | Among the silk and wool mixtures are | many pretty things, but few that are new. | Viv Bayadere stripes of plusi or patterns of | gold silk tapestry up from flat | grounds. Striped ve rted into checks by cords across, r goods perpendi di- by silk lines. Woven tucks and ser- led effects are shown end many | as many plaids 2 is (his differenc artans, while th numerous— ast autumn ear ago we had ¢ son freak pla cious color combinations such as hitherto ‘ akfast food advertisements have countenanced. “Where do such nightmares come from?" | asked a lady surveying nast a design of | re ues, yellows and variegated greens. | ma that Joseph's coat w this goods," replied the sales: man re iy, but witn a suspicion of a | twinkh Artillery Red and Marine Hl t of the new plaids appe i in s | mor serges. Bold window-pane checks ef ma- rine blue and artillery red are offered for tailor skirts, to be worn with coats of either red cr blue. Other large checks combine cavalry yellow and artillery gray. It is probable that large shepherd's plaids and smail checks which blend brown, green and blue, or red, brown and blue will be sold and worn, while showier goocs trim shop windows. The Victoria tartan and the black, green and blue tartan of the Black Watch, or 42d Highland Regiment, are those oftenest een for golf or miliiary capes and for steamer wraps. Steamer rugs are cut up for traveling wraps by persons whose tastes are fanciful. ‘The effort to get rid of the flounce con- tinues. but there seems no probability that it will for the present succeed. Narrow flounces lined with a contrasting color are in high favor. The skirt has become so narrow about the hips as to be set on a yoke by some dressmaker, or, in a few im- ported models, to be laced at the back with cord and buttons. When this extremity is reached, reaction is probable, and may cecme from the pannier; though the so called panniers now introduced are merely flat trimmings, giving neither the fact nor appearance of fullne: Some peculiarly serpentine dresses of a princess cut lace not only at the bac t, but of the waist also, the front being | altogether seamless The nearest to a dress is the pinafore dress, which appears under many forms, the generai idea being a low-cut open prin- cess frock of plain, usually dark color, with an under-dress of bright stuff—the fanciful the better—showing at the neck and in the front of the skirt or at the sides. Fashions of the ‘70's Bac’ A straw that shows a wind setting tc- yard panniers the cut of the bodice, which is now short on the hips, but pointed in front and back and longer than it has been. Another straw is the cut of the sleeves. which tight to the elbow for demi-toilet, with wide frills below. Stmilar sleeves were last worn in the seventies. Doubled skirts are really double? in a respectable proportion of cases this au- tumn, » of the overskirt not being merely an optical delusion. The pol- is is the apn: onaise does not give up the game: rather it becomes the Louis XIV coat in magnifi- cent brocade, short in front, but in the back reaching below the-knee. Some of the autumn cloaks are of the long, straight-hanging order with rounded fronts introduced in the spring. Smart little jackets are cut away from the waist in front and slope into a_ basque five inches long, perhaps, behind. The red coats worn so much with white serge dresses this sum- mer will be continued well into the autumn with tweed skirts, the coats acquiring, for their greater distinction, borders and revers of tweed. Black satin bolero coats with spade-shaped fronts will be worn as late us the weather permits. Some of them are heavily corded and all have cecentric co! Jars and revers. The newest trimming for tailor dresses is stitching In broad scroll designs about the hips, waving lines running down eithe> side of the front of the skirt. Wash leath- er worked in silk is used somewhat. Tucks multiply daily. Three or four tucks at the bottom of a skirt, then six or eight rows of piping, then a band of embroidery, and then more piping, is a sample scheme of decora- Uon. The bodice to such a skirt might be most elaborate or a plain, tight-fitting coat affair with a tucked yoke. Fringes and Buttons. Fringes, which have been vsed throu; out the summer, have become thicker and longer, and will be made more of a feature. Embroideries will be used as much as ever, especially on the revers or braces of bodices and the side panels of skirts. But the thing that is startling is the button. Metal and inlaid buttons of all sorts are approved; if antique, the better. Jeweled buttons are seen also and large cameos. Buttons are of all shapes, especially inconvenient one: and of more than generous sizes. But of eccentric notions In this as in other lines it is possible to say that it is still a case of taking the horse to the water. The law of the surviv not always of the fittest, but of the fittest to survive—applies to fash- ions. A beautiful tea gown recently finished is entirely of lace hanging from a yoke of jet the bodice aid sleeves being of a pale vic let crepe de chine. A second, perhaps more novel, is of accordion-pleated mousseline de sole inlet with tinted lace; the color of the mousseline being a soft blue with a curious blush of pink. A broad panel of black Chantilly lace Is set up and down the front of the princess robe, and the sleeves, which are tight to the elbows, flare below. The high evening gown lately worn by Bernhardt was of great delicacy and beau- ty. The princess robe of ivory-tinted silk was partly covered in front by a deep, pointed apron tunic of white colors. A thick ruche resembling rose crepe embroid- ered in delicate flower petals finished the hem and at the waist was,a broad pink ribbon sash. The long evening cloak ac- companying this dress was of a silvery blue silk, almost white, and was faced back in front with lace revers, which formed a flaring collar. The sleeves were finished at wrists and shoulders with fur bands Cherry Velvet With Violet. afternoon dress in one of the new shades of violet has its skirt scant to the knees, flaring thence in an accordion-platt- ed flounce set on with zigzags of a deeper purple velvet. The tight-fitting bodice has a lace yoke and a lace bolero held in place by narrow velvet bands passing over the shoulders. The cherry-colored velvet belt shows a large rosette in front fastened with a buckle. A good dress of black cashmere has its skirt trimmed with three rows of decp fringe forming points in front and behind. The short coat bodice fastens with one but- ton and turns back over a tucked yoke in a collar of Jet embroidery outlined with black lace. A fine green cloth costume is trimmed with bands of embroidery around the back and hips of the skirt, the trimming being Himited by the line of the flounce, which runs up to the waist in front. The coat, which rounds away from the front, is dec: orated in the same manner. Short people who have not had strength of mind enough to resist the bayadere should note that perpendicular stripes are now obtainable and that the world will be happier if those who need them return to them. An & Tro THE DEBUTANTE. us That May Lead to ehtful Season. tantes will! of the det the land, and society with one will prepare to do them homage. nese maidens devolves the task of g up their city’s reputation for 1, still more {mportant, attract- and, indeed, this Is no sinecure. | One makes @ mistake when one thinks that | @ debutante’s winter is to be merely of | the butterfly order, and that no duty falls | upon Young shoulders. Often st laying the foundation stone of succ | failure in her worl this her first the girl who secures no | at initial period. It Seris some old-fashioned | a fuss is made over a} ry fuss makes | fcuous, and whereas she might years ago unnoticed, she is | prominently to the ‘surface. | the young girl, and ven much will be re- first place it goes without saying | her training should be excellent. She by ite, graceful, gracious: she dance well, be up in th cts of lay; she must know her ou ife, be conversant with the sports and isements of her brothers and boy she must have read what people talking of; she must know about the rs of the times must have some face knowledge, least, of the ce!- ated artists and of her day, as well as of those past. Her own languaxe ts far from sufficient in this cos- mopolitan world, for should meet for- rs. she must be able to exchange the sies of the day. She must know ically something of music and art, even though she have no decided talent for either—in fact, a great dea! of general inf tien will carry her farther than mn roughness in one or two subjects. Ene st have savoir faire, and show no awkwar mbarrassment at unexpected circumstances; she must have tact to know when to talk and when to listen; she must not t ward in expressing her opinion, though she must by no means be colorless and imitative. She must never be loud or boisterc and yet be full of life end ; she must be unselfish, and never for an great oth: clot tant pear to think her: she must not brag to s fortunately situated of her -s, her entertainments. her friends. She mu-t not make a fuss over men, or even by hinting or plain asking endeavor to secure them as partners for the cotil- Better be a wall flower, pure and . than a forward, exacting damsel. should be chary in her correspond- ence with men, and when called upon to write, send only bright, clever little notes, | short and to the point, always remember- | ing that men are proverbially careless about their letters 1 the chances are that the very epistles dashed off under the impression of great and ever-abiding friend- ship may hereafter be read by the future wife or by a variety of sisters or maiden relatives who love to rummage in the top drawer or desk of heedless men. Therefore, let the debutante write noth- ing which ever need mind being seen the most critieal. It is hardly neces- to add that she should be even more eful of bestowing her photograph or ac- cepting or making gifts in the promiscuous manner so much to be deplored in the present generation. In her relationship with older women she should be courteous and pleasant, remem- bering that » her truest friends in social matter: gi he should be before said, kind and generous. And now, by following these few suggestions, it is safe to promise our debutante a delight- ful season, with many others in the future equally charming, and full of the pleasures of social life. +o+ Birthday. From Harper's Bazar. Few of us are happy to have our birth- S come quite as often as they do. For, whether we acknowledge the fact or not, we none of us want to grow old. It is good to be young, and while we are not ashamed of our age, we feel that each year brings us nearer that point when we shail be no lenger young. And we do not want to be laid aside, to be out of the bright, happy, active life. So a we do not welcome our birthdays. But, since they must come, we like other people to remember them plea- santly, and the whole day is gladdened by congratulatory letter or by a little pres- ent which shows that some one is glad we were born, and hopes that we will live many, Many years yet. And because these little remembran do give happiness we should try to pay especial heed to the Lirth- days of others. It takes only a few min- utes to write the loving lines that our friend will receive at his breakfast table on his birthday morning. But these few lines may turn the current of his thoughts into a happy direction and make him for- get that he is growing old in the recollec- tion that he fs loved. ce An Entert: From the London Mail. Unmounted pictures, those pretty and in- teresting ones that sometimes come as sup- plements with the really good papers, the photographs that you do not care to frame and which cre too large to put in an album, the engravings that have been picked up here and there, and especially the pictures cut out of old but good guide books, may be arranged in a portfolio so simple that it can be handled by every- body without its showing the usage given it. Buy an ordinary portfolio, a good-sized one, with a strong back to it. Cover it with coarse gray linen, and paint on this in a floral or architectural design the word “Picture: Let your pictures be loose, but mount those which are small or which have suf- fered in the least, and trim the edges of those that are ragged. It is necessary in time, because they are handled a great deal, to throw some of the pictures away, but there are always fresh contributions. Two portfolios filled with these pictures will entertain a party of young people an entire evening, giving them subjects for conversation and opportunities for tete-a- tete, so that they will go home pleased with themselves and with each other. t0- ning Portfolio. se Children and the Dark. From the Londen Mail. Children should be accustomed as soon as possible to sleep in a dark room. Unless they have learned to be afraid of it, the darkness is soothing to the nerves, and the rest is more profound and refreshing than when there is the unconscious stimulation of light. It is particularly desirable for children of a nervous temperament that light should be excluded, yet it is most often the nervous, sensitive child whose im- agination has been filled with fears of the shapes the dark may hide. WALL PAPER LAMP SHADES, A Pretty One Can Be Made for Thirty Cents. The smart cottage 1s now noted for Its severely simple, but none the less charm- ing, cartridge paper shades that the mi: tress has manufactured herself, at an out- lay of about thirty cents each. Just the simple paper used as wall cov- ering is utilized for dressing the lamps, but the thinnest quality is devoted to this purpose, and the five colors in which the shades are wrought are old rose, oak yel- low, stone brown, sage green and regimen- tal gray. A lamp flame screened behind any one ef these Unts of light-weight cartridge paper sheds forth the dim, religious light that women love and that is a blessing and a balm to tired eye: Now, when she wants a pretty, cheap shade, the resourceful woman merely buys at the paper hanger’s a yard and a quar- ter of the material above mentioned, cui out a wide strip on the bias, half circle, folds this about a wire empire frame and pastes up the one seam neatly. To make a perfect job, she binds the top and bottom of the shade, with a narrow strip of thin, smooth paper, in a darker or iighter tone than the cartridge, adjust- ing the binding with paste. This is the sort of shade that ts to be had for thirty cents. Something more trou- blesome and decorative, but scarcely mo. expensive, is the laying down of the bias piece of cartridge paper quite flat and carefully cutting out square or oblong pieces and then filling in these lines with one of Gibson’s, Phil May’s or Ab- bey’s black and white drawings. One woman, whose husband treasures the saying of the author of “Soldiers Three,” made in one afternoon, from sage green paper and a proof of Nicholson's clever portrait, a handsome Kipling shade for the lamp on the study table of her bet- ter half. Inspired by the compliments this shade received, she followed it up by cut- ting out the portraits of four of our most prominent naval commanders from a news- Paper supplement and setting them into a regimental blue shade for the nursery lamp. So much for the cheap shade. Lamps in parlor or library get no more expensive type of paper and are mounted on the em- pire frames, but the things to use in their ornamentation are fine old gold prints. A woman who has the right sort of knowl- edge about prints, and enthusiasm over her lamp shade, will haunt the bric-a-brac shops. These treasures she gives usually to a professional shade maker for proper set- ting in its proper frame, and when the shade, after a season’s use, grows faded and dingy, she cuts out the precious print and has it set in a new lamp covering. Map shades are no novelty, but a brown wrapping paper shade, with a geographical view of Cuba on one side and the Philip- pines on the other, cut out square from the cheap maps sold on the streets, is among the new dresses for lamps that amateurs make. Heavy brown wrapping paper can be charmingly utilized for candle shades and decorated only with elaborate coats of arms, done in water colors and gilding, or in colored inks. These are cut out, pastéd up and placed on wire empire frames, as directed for the lamps, while In the shops where frames are for sale they also sell tiny clasps, in the form of fleur de lis, that hold the light paper cylinder firmly to the wire frame. ———_+-e+—_____ Some of the critics would have taken Santiago in an entirely different way, and some of them, It is.probable, wouldn't have taken it at all.—Puck. HOUSEHOLD HINTS In this, the heydey of the thrifty house- wife's canning, preserving and pickling ac- tivities, the luscious,:crimson “love apple,” or tomato, comes in ‘for a goodly share of attention. Unless one has a number of empty glass cans on hand, the work of simply canning tomatoes seems to be one ¢ supererogation, asi they’ can be bought just as cheaply, alrefdy canned, and quite as good. In catsups ‘and chill sauces, and for pickles, sweet or scur, those of home manufacture stand decidedly pre-eminent; and in the preparation of these lies the am- Litious housekeeper’s opportunity to shine. A tomato pickle, made without cooking, ‘s ar easy and acceptable relish for the inex- perienced housewife to begin on. Pare, chop fine anc drain for two hours a half peck of fine, ripe tomatoes. Add one quart of vinegar and allow it to stand while the rest of the pickle is made ready. To two or three heads of chopped celery add one cup of fine chopped onion, a smail ted pepper, one cup of grated horseradish, one cup of nasturtlum seed, one cup of sugar, ene of white mustard, two table- spoonfuls of black pepper, one of cinnamon, one of cloves, a teaspoonful of mace and one-half cupful of salt. Stir all together and put in glass cans or bottles, without ccoking. The “Yale pillow” has hit the popular fancy, and young women, north, south, east and west, are phenomenally busy tearing old letters and manila wrap- Ping paper into bits for the. stuffing of one of these pillows. “It's an awful- ly nice way to dispese of your old love let- ters,” declared a young matron a few days ago. One hates to burn up all those fer- vent protestations of undying love, and yet you can’t keep them all stored away, espe- cially if you live in a flat, or are moving from pillar to post. If you tear them into bits and make a pillow for your head the sentiment remains, and though you can't continue to read them, it ts romantic feel that your head ts ‘pillowed on then All papers excepting rewspapers find their Way into these pillows, which, thouzh heavy, ave soft and ccol. For the ham- mock or piazzi suite they cannot be sur- passed, while they are mest effective wea- pons in the “pillow fights” and other hard usage to which college pillows are subject- ed. They are usvailly covered with plain denim or other stout, serviceable material. The beiling of an egg seems one of the most simple of all culinary ventures, yet where there is a member of the family who is distressed if his egg is not boiled in just such a manner, his arguish is frequently so often repeated as to become chronic. it 1s a direful thing to ask for a soft-boiled egg and receive one ju rmed through, or for one ‘well aone” and receive a stone. The fault usually lies in the fact that the water is not boiling when the egg goes in, or that the time is counted from the mo. ment the egz gces In, instead of from the time it commences to boll. For a soft-boil- ed egg two min should be allowed; for a med egg, three minutes, and for a hard-boiled one, five minutes. Have the water boiling are immersed. This will lover the temperature, and a few seconds must elzpse before the _ boiling again commences. Then cover and watch the clock. removing the eggs the second the allotted time has expired. A satisfactory green made thus: Slice one pi of green toma- toes half an thick and six wh onions thin, and place in an earthern jar in layers, with a cup of salt sprinkled be- tween. Let them remain over night, then drain thoroughly and scald in one quart of a tomato pickle is vinegar and two of water mix while mix together two pc Sugar, quarter of a’ pountt of mustard, a teaspoonful of ground ginger and one of lack pepper, one tablespsonful of cl two of cinnamon and a paper of celery seed. When the tomatoes and ontons have just scalded, Grain and cover again v fresh vinegar and the spices. Cook ten or fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, and pack in glass jars. Now is the time to make the very perfec- tion of perfume sachets from the soft White fluff of the miik-weed, Gather the plump pods while green, and lay aside a few days until they open and the sil flo: becomes detached. Have ready a bolting-cloth case, painted, {f one has the ability, with a cluster of opening pods, and fill with the fleecy down. Tiny packets of sachet powder may be attached to the cor- ners and cunningly concealed by rosettes of baby ribbon. A savory home-made chili sauce calls for twelve large, bright scarlet tomatoes, pared and ¢ d together with two red peppers and small onions. Add to these two tablespoonfuls of salt, two eups of vinegar. two tablespoons and a half of brown sugar, with ginger, cloves and cin- namon to suit. Cook slowly on back of range for four or five hours, stirring fre- quently with an agate or wooden spcon to prevent Its adherence to the kettle. Put in Wwide-mouthed bottles, dipping the cork in melted sealing wax, or put in glass frvit jars. A spoonful of scrambled eggs or omelet left from breakfast and spread between slices of buttered bread or biscuit make hool lunch sandwich that is usual found acceptable. A spoonful of creame? codfish also Is not to be despised as a savory “filler” for the omniverous sand- wich. If the cellar has a damp smell difficult of ventilation, a few pans of char- al set on the shelves and in the corners will make the afr sweet and pure. nud is To cleanse the mica of stove doors wash in salt and v.negar, and dry with a soft cloth. Flour should always be sifted just before using, and measured after sifting. — Bangles in the South, From the New Orleans Picayune. Bangles have come back, and once more their soft jingle will announce the girl who is right “in the push.” Women must have their fetters, no matter how they cry about independence, and this instinct, together with the liking for trop’ies of contest, brings back the summer girl, saucy and tri- umphant, with her wrist a-tinkle with en- gagement bangles. Think of that! They are tiny rings of unalloyed gold or silver, just big enough to squeeze the hand through. Gems uncut and set in rings are linked to the circle and swing free. Espe- cial significance attaches to the ger. A sapphire and a ruby may imply “Stephen and Rose.” Or a turquoise may hang be- ‘ween tiny letters I and U. That means “I love you,” because the turquoise is call- ed the stone of faithful love this season. ‘The combinations are endless, and the more endlessly they are combined the saucier is the ‘girl who wears them. Each bangle is not supposed to actually represent engage- ment, but it may, and there are other com- binations that lend interest to the decora- tions. Tea Gowns. From Harper's Bazar. Evidently tea gowns ate to be the cor- rect house gown th{s coming winter, and are most graceful in. design, and made of the most expensive materials. There does not seem to be any“unalterable law as to the fabrics us2d for tea gowns, but any- thing that is becoming, will hang well, and make up effectively,.1s considered fashion- able. One exceedingly smart gown is made of crinkled crepe—wfite, tight-fitting, and with folds crossed over the bust and fas- tened at the left side, sq. that the fronts leave a V-shaped opening at the throat. The fronts are trimmed with pleatings of pink satin ribbon, and the entire gown is lined with pink silk; at th> back, starting from the shoulders, ‘are two long Watteau pleats of the crepe that‘are put into the seams at the sides. Another gown of flow- ered silk, made from an old ball gown, is rcut open in front, showing a petticoat of tuck2d white lawn and entre-deux of Val- enciennes lace. The tight-fitting sleeves are of the lace, with high collar faced with the lace. A girdle of silk, with tasseled ends, fastened at 2ither side, is tied in front, and the ends fall to the foot of the skirt. An exquisite mixture for perfuming clothes that are to be packed away, and which is said to keep out moths also, is made as follows: Pound to powder one ounce each of cloves, caraway seed, nut- Meg, mace, cinnamon and Tonquin beans, and ‘as much orris root as will equal the weight of the foregoing ingredients put to- gether. Little bags of thin muslin should be filled with this mixture and placed among the garments. 4 FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Picture Hats Are Prettier Than Ever, but So Are Toques. Good Hints to Follow for New Selec- tions or in Freshening Up Old Hats, Special Cor-espondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 22, 1898. Men's straw hats are “cailed in” the 15th day of September. But women, for once luckier than the opposite sex, are permit- ted to wear theirs much longer. But a thin entering wedge of felt hats are now to be s:en on the women who have returned to town and have had time to give earnest thought to fall and winter head gear. The custom grows of buying about this time of the year some sort of a plain felt hat, and after wearing it on all occasions for a month or so, relegating it to the ranks of evary day or rainy day hat. Although plainly trimmed, it must be very smart, and great care should be exercised in choosing it, as its shape, style and fitness will carry off many different gowns. This fall the Alpine, although much in evidence, is not quit> as popular as a modi- fication of the short-backed sailor, or regu- lar sailor, which is trimmed with a soft scarf of ribbon (no ends showing) and a breast or several wings. Often a buckle is added to the wings. These hats come in all shades of gray, brown and castor felt, and can, of cours>, be had in black and dark blue, although these last two colors are not as much in evidence. When an Alpine hat Is chosen it is so bread that it 1s really an English walking hat shape. And it always has the breast of a bird, several quills or wi , with per- haps a buckle added, as well as a soft fold of brocad:d ribbon about the crown, to re- lieve its stiffness. There is also a modifica- tion of the sombrero shape of last year, which has the brim of a wide sailor and the dented round crown of the Httle felt hat which was too much worn a year or so ago, Then ther? are the mcst fetching Uttle tur- bans. More trimmed, sad to say, than a turban should be for real comfort. Yet it is good to see these little, comfortable hats again with us, and trimming is, after all, a matter of the fancy of the milliner. If she puts on too much it can be taken off, Some of the turbans seem to have chi very litue during the time of their sion. Trey have the same small crown and round turned-up brim. But they 4 only one variety of the turban on the mar- ket, and from this modest shape they evo- luts into Doucet models with brim of fur and crown of velvet or embroidered satin. me of them are little cocked hats which remind one of the great Napoleon. Some of them have their felt foundation so cov- ered with chenille, feathers and velvet that it is hard to recogniz> them. But whatever the shape or whatever the hat, it is not a protection from wind or weather. For, with the exception of the few large hats one sees, which, by the way, re- mind one of Gairsboroughs, every hat is worn off the face. This is a quick and startling change from the summer and spring models, which all tilted over one’s hose at such an angle chat a woman with her hat on was as liable to collide with the Ing pedestrians as is a bicycle scorcher. But this is all changed. Some hats have a knot of velvet in the center of the front and wings or feathers radiating a from hats have a knot of velvet and anding straight up from it, but however the trimming is started, whichever Way it points, it is a from the front. There is a good deal of complaint ef the new toques. The aid to be broz clumsy. For the majority of women, ever, the new toque is less trying than the cid.’ The majerity of them are made of velvet, but there are toques to be bought, and one can also have toques made of felt cr chenille. Perhaps the very most satisfac- tory und sensible purchase for a hat to be worn on most occasicns would be a felt toque of some color which harmonized with but did rot mateh the gown with which it would see the most service. For just now hats harmonize with gowns, while it is re- served from some part of their trimming to match some part of the gown. For in- stance, a hat or bonnet which has cerise bows upon it is worn with a neck ribbon of the same shade. Gainsboroughs Still Lead. Although there are a few beautiful large hats which a resemblance to the graceful Gainsborough in the catching up of the left side with a buckle, and othe: bear s wkich are a modification to the shepherdess slape, which was fancied in the spring, yet ¢ hats are noi to be worn to any great extent. They have retired to their proper sphere, receptions and carriage hats 4 for shopping, walking and all ordinary pursuits there are the turbans and toques, as well as numberless grace- ful little fel vhich will, by and b ap- rimmed rather elaborately, but which only to be seen in an untrimmed state, From an artistic standpoint the hats this year are much more promising than they have been for some time. There is little scattering of the trimming. It almest dl- ways centers in one spot, either on the jeft side or right in front, and from that the hat seems to go down, if one may use such an expression about a hat, to the outer edge. For instance, a toque of go!d- en brown velvet was shown at an open- ing yesterday, which was quite high on the ieft side and quite low on the right. ‘The velvet had been laid on in soft folds, whi eemed to radiate in circles from the crown of the head. On the left side were three double curied quills. These quills are made of two quills put together, then over them is put a speckled or iri- descent feather, often that of an owl, The effect is exceedingly novel. These quills were held in place by a knot of velvet and a buckle of brilliants. One would say this was an exceedingly simple hat. But the touch of an artist is necessary to give those soft, crinkled folds to velvet and that lock of sufficient height to the quills and upturned left side without making the nat clumsy. Although all the n hats are said to turn up on the left side, when one is describing them, as a matter of fact they turn up very much front of the left side, so that it is not over one’s 2 the highest point is, but almost far front as the temple. This, of course, dces not include the hats which turn up exactly in the middle of the front. All of these hats seem designed for women with low foreheads, but as women with intelectual foreheads are again wearing fringes they, too, can appear in the pre- valling fashion of headgear. To have the very latest, one must have a made, and not a trimmed, hat; that is, if there is a feit foundation it must be so disguised as to hardly appear. For these made hats there are the most beautiful and rich materials. Polka-dotted velve*. gener- ally in brilliant blue, embroidered with large white polka dots; fringed taffeta, an in- describably lovely material when made up into a toque, and various velvets cnibroi- dered with honiton braid or baby ribbon, make head coverings which wovld have been coveted by the Queen of Sheba. FE erything is of the most beautiful material. Siik and velvet flowers peep from under the brim on the rare occasions when hats are still trimmed in the back. Ostrich pluines, not content with being long and curling, have become double; that is, on a long plume, about half way down, is grafted an- other plume of the same color, but a dif- ferent shade. Thus a lavender velvet hat, one of the few large shapes seen, has a covering of shirred malines lace, is turned up on one side and held up by a rhinestone buckle and 2 knot of malines, and has gracefully curling over its brim a long lavender plume, which has a double end of lavender and royal purp!e; that is, one tip is lavender and the other royal purple. Bonnets Have Strings Agal Bonnets with strings have appeared again, and very dainty they look. ‘The strings are narrow, long affairs, not at all matronly-looking. Most of the bonnets have small crowns of jet, chenille or gilt, and have three or four velvet loops standing up in front. One bonnet with a black velvet crown had four loops of crrise velvet stand- ing stiffly up in front; between each loop was a rhinestone ornameat., . Tam O'Shanter crowns must not be for- gotten. Not only are they very popular, but with their assistance a last year's felt hat may be modernized most successfully. ‘They are made of any shade of velvet cne ehocses, and aearly every crown is em- broidered. One can use honiton braid, se- quins or baby ribbon. The honiton in bow- knot patterns is probably the richest-look- ins and it is not hard to applique. Details of Trimming. The double brims are a novelty and are very handsome on a large hat, but they Stand by the Cleveland's baking powder is now, as it has bee» for 27 years, an absolutely pure cream of tartar baking powder, and the best that money, science and experience can produce. Official tests now, as always, show Cleveland's to be the strong- est pure cream of tartar baking powder made. The leading teach- ers of cookery use and recommend it. It does the best work. Thousands of housekeepers in this city attest its superior value. Do not be deceived by the claim that some other baking powder is “just the same” or ‘‘justas good” as Cleveland's. It's safe to “stand by the standard,” Cleveland require careful treatment or else they will look clumsy. Most of the douvie brims are simply sbirred brusec's net—shirred on wire frame, of course, put on over a felt hat of the same shape. Castor is stili a favorite color, but a vic let blue is most popu! i all shades of lavender and vio’ A dark ma genta is much used in trimmings, und bril- lant blue is used to the extent of whole toques of it. Beaver, which can be made inte any shape, is on the market, and man: of the hats are madg of folds cf beaver in- stead of tolds of velve There is also a ribbon felt which can be used for mad¢ hats, although one also gees it in the felt already on the market. In short, hats ure beautiful and bewildering, woman who canavt find ene to suit and the her may write herself down as most ¢ifh- cult to ple MABEL BoYD. ——— Lace Table Covers. From Harper's Bozar. The present fancy for the use of lace mats upon polished tables has caused a dcmand for whole covers of this delicate and beautiful material. A lady who chanc ed to have a number of the lace squares formerly sold in various sizes for tidies, rats and other purposes, made a very handsome cover by simply sewing them to- gether in rows and then adding a border of the same kind of lace, about two and a half inches wide, put straight along the four sides and slightly full at the corners. The squares were four inches. Lined with pink, and a cut-glass vase holding jiong- stemmed pink ross upon it it covered tracted Another cover, of s bad a band of linen two inches wide arating center and border. A third showed squares of lace alternat- ing with squares of er linen cambriz hemstitched of the same size. This also had a band of the plain material separating the center from the lace edge, which matched the square Packing Of of Widows.” From the Kobe Chronicle. A pastime which obtains among the farm classes of Corea, known as the “packing off of widows,” consists of a raid by some disconsolate widower and his friends on some village known to contain a young widow, the forcible abduction of the lady in question and her marriage to the wid- ower. An instance of this kind has re- cently come to our notice. A widower liv- ing in one of the villages of Kangwha, with eleven friends, went to a hamlet close to the walls of Kangwha City, where a widow lived, and seized and carried off, after somewhat of a battle, a young lady. It so happened, however, that they had mis- taken the house, and unfortunately got hold of the wrong lady. Early the next morning an indignant posse came in pu suit, but the men who had committed the dastardly deed succeeded in eluding them. ‘The young lady, however, was rescued, and after the house of the widower and its con- tents had been completely demolish: Was escorted home in triumph by her hu: band and his friends. Some Uses of Water. From the Philadelphia Press. A strip of flannel or a soft napkin, folded lengthwise, dipped in hot water and wrung out, and then applied around the neck of a child that has the croup will surely bring of Cluny lac sep: relief in a few minutes. A linen towel folded several times and dipped in hot water, quickly wrung and applied over the site of toothache or neu- ralgia, will generally afford prompt relief. This treatment for colic has been found to work like magic. Nothing so prompt y cuts short a conges- tion of the lungs, sore throat or rheuma- n as hot water, when applied early in -ase and thoroughly. Hot water taken freely half an hour be- fore bedtime is an excellent cathartic in the case of constipation, while it has a soothing effect upon the stomach and bow- els. This treatment, continued a few months, with the addition of a cupful of hot water slowly sipped half hour before each meal, with proper attention to diet, will cure most cases of dyspepsia Ordinary headaches almost always yield to the simultancous application of hot wa- ter to the feet and back of the neck. -———— Pets Travel in Baskets. From the Philadelphia Pre: Not to be debarred from carrying Fido on railroads where dogs are not allowed, except in baggage cars, the up-to-date wo- man has adopted an ingenious device. Some of the large stores have been displaying unique wicker baskets of a pattern and finish which immediately attract the atten- tion of the shopper. These baskets are shaped Ike an ordinary market basket, though finisaed a little more artistically, and are opened at one end for ventilation, but barred by rottan rails to prevent Fido from escaping. Madam can carry her pet on board a train, and, provided the dog o tabby makes no noise, she is free from de- tection. Other shops are showing bags for cats, parrots, monkeys and dogs. These bag: come in all sizes, are oilcloth linea, end shield the pet from the conductor's object- ing eyes. Each end of the satchel has heavy wire gratings, which admit the air and may be instantly covered by canvas screens in case a railroad official comes un- comfortably near. ~+e+—___ Red Ink for Notes. From the New York Hereld. “A bottle of red ink, please,” said the most stylish of two “smart” girls across the counter of a fashionable stationery store on upper 6th avenue. “Certainly, miss,” answered the shopman addressed, and he reached to a shelf near at hand, on which there stood a number of bottles precisely similar, though of varying sizes, to the one he just then took down. “I was afraid you might not have it,” murmured the stylish girl. “It’s such a new fashion.” ‘The obliging clerk looked very important. “You are one of the first who has asked for red ink, miss, but we have just laid in a supply. Twenty-five? Yes. Thank you. It is one of the newest freaks of the day he went on, as the girls walked out with the little parcel. “To be right in the swim a girl must use red ink instead of black, in her notes both to men and to other girls, How long the freak ‘will last I can’t tell you; probably until Christmas or there- abouts.” In Beautiful Law: From Puck. Sunday School Teacher—‘And so Nebu- chadnezzar was compelled to eat grass! Now, wasn’t that an awful punishment?” Little Bobby Commuter—“I don’t know; but my father says Nebuchadnezzar was lucky he aidn’t have to cut it with a lawn mower.” i | | Will yield up its treasure to alcohol. | them PERFUME FROM FLOWERS. How the Sweet Odor is Extracted ana Put to Use. From the New York Tribune For over two centuries the inhabitants of the little valley of Var, in the southeastern part of France, have been engaged in the industry of making perfumes from flowers. Every summer the whole valley is like one great garden bed of roses, orange trees, tuberoses, violets, jonquils, acacia and jas- mine, which are gathered in their blossom- ing season and their sweetness garnered and preserved for future use and profit All summer long these fi are datly visited by women carrying great baskets on th which ar is of flowers and children rir backs, into gathered the blossoms; they are then carried to the great storeh: whe ample preparation been made for ge ting the perfume from them. Among the first secrets of the plant world which these old perfume makers learned was that the ent of the flower is not contained in any gland or litte sac, but, rather, that It ts ex- led by the jower somewhat in the r of breathing, and that if th crushed the odor is destroyed thing they found out ¢ that fresh grease this breath the man- blossom is One other rly in their work is will most readily absorb flowers, and it in turn sing these facts, the people of this valley have built up a great industry, supplying a ¢ part of the world’s market with flower fumes, and to meet the demand made up by commercial requirements have grown in a single season over 1,500 pounds of orange blossoms, 500,000 pounds of roses and nearly 100,000 pounds of violets and jasmine. The odor is obtained from these flowers in two ways, one called fleurage.” and by far the most common manner of getting the perfume; the other, “maceration,” which is used ' sometimes where the former way is not sufficient to get the whole f th perfume. The ordinary way is to prepare a great number of large pieces of glass, each stout- ly framed in a wooden case which extends an inch or two above the glass all around, to admit of the flowers being piled on it without being crushed by contact with the glass placed over it Over the surface of these glass panes is spread a layer of clean, fresh grease, and on it are piled the flowers, each kind being kept separate. The per- fume is readily absorbed in the fat, and from day to day fresh blooms are placed in the frame until they grow withered, when they are removed, the grease being prepared for a new suppiy by being sep- arated by means of running a knife over its surface, thus turning up new parts to re- ceive the perfume. Flowers are placed on it again, and this process is continued t whole season of blossoming, after wh the grease is scraped off the glass and put in alcohol after it has been chopped fine, 80 that every particle of it may be reached by the spirit and none of the precious ydor ost. Often this grease is not put in the alco- hol for a long time, but, instead, is scraped from the plates of glass after it has become filled with the flower perfume, chopped fine, ted and poured into canisters, exported quantities in this shape and re- duced to the extract of produce by the deal- ers in whatever country it is sold. ich The other process, by which oil is per- fumed in much the sume way as the grea is called m eration, and the flowers are put in melted fat, or oll, the basin being kept in a warm bath so that it w li not be- come too hot, a liquid state being sufticien for the process to be carried out. The flow- ts are infused in this warm oil many hours, and are then strat away and fresh ones added, the process being kept u. as song us the blossoms can be procure The best perfume ts obtained from the jas- mine and tuberose by the enfleurage, but the rese, acacia and orange are found to sive more satisfactory results by the meth- od maceration, and a joint process is necessary to obtain the best odor from the Violet and jonquil, enfleurage first and mac- eration afterward. To do this a wire net is put in the frame, rather than the plece of glas re being filled with a cotton f ly moleskin soaked tn oll, and the flowers are laid on it just as in the pro- cess of enfleurage on the solid grease. In course of time and after the flowers have been changed many times the off will be- come fragrant, after which it {s pressed out of the fabric. Oil of tuberose and of many ther flowers is prepared in this m: The only thing necessary to procure th. tract of perfume as used in tollet prepara- tions 1s to infuse this ofl or scented grease in strong alcohol. Certain curious facts regarding the odor of flowers have also been learned by these perfume makers. There seems to be in the flower world a series of flowers which by combining ther perfumes will make about every known odor in the world. This know!l- edge has been utilized by the flower gro ers of Var, and many experiments, cover- ing a period of many centuries, have prove that the seven plants whose flowers con- in, or will produce by combination, the perfume vf all the others are the rose, vio- let, orange, acacia, jonquil, tuberose and smine, €0 these are the ones they grow and depend upon mixing for the otber odors of commerce. For instance, violet and tube- rose make the perfume of the lily of the valley, the jasmine and tuberose when mixed have a perfume like the hyacinth, the jasmine and the crange resemble the Sweet pea when combined. About all the various bouquets and odd odors of the stores are made in this way, many of them being very old indeed; frangipanni, one of the most popular perfumes on account of its lasting so long, being an invention of an old Roman alchemist during the second century, and named for its discoverer. Musk is an animal odor, but on account of ils great lasting properties is mixed with many delicate perfumes to increase their sale. Patchouly is made from an herb, and Zaine! its reputation as a perfume from being used by the makers of Indian shaw to give their wares that peculiar odor which the French labored so many years to di cover. Finally they found the plant, im- ported it into their country, and were at last successful in thelr imitation of Indian shawls. Patchouly is the most lasting of all the plant perfumes, and, like musk, is combined with flower odors in the manu- facture of ali manner of perfumes for sale. ———_+ + —___ A Sore Point. She—“Doctor, I've been guessing these conundrums. Do you ever—" He—“Madam, I have been guessing ‘— J undrums for thirty years—professionally’ x