Evening Star Newspaper, September 17, 1898, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 1898-24 PAGES. he Internationa) Literary and wS Service.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 16, 1898. (Copyright, 1898, 1 Importers’ sample cards and th> council chambe: of the designers promise a bril- liant winter to follow the quiet summer of the war. The fashion of the day lends it- self to gorgeous effect, and with jew2, exquisite embroideries, draperies of rare old lac a 1 the full, rich colorings of satins reception and ball rooms nt striking pictur2s. and she brocades, Id The vogue of white and of soft, creamy in for evening wear increases rather The new weaves are “sym- in on> enthusiast’s phrase; they most like a delicate wool, to the large-patterned brocades are 4 with iris or orchids. White china 1 with blurred designs white are not new combinations; thoy offer themselves every autumn with a not un- welcome regularity. It is almost too early to say whether the black and white of which we have lately se2n so much will survive the frosts, but frem present indications black silk dresses with guimpes of white guipure net or of cream silk laid in fine tucks will, to some extent, continue the magpie combination. As to the cut of evening gowns, it is th> ree of the present that skirts shall be levishly trimmed. There is a movement to revive the high empire belt, and a decided tendency toward harlequin effects in a dif- f-rent treatment of the two sides of the bedice, and especially th> sleeves, where these are not abolished. Some of the most recent designs justify, for example, a trail of roses over one shoulder and a black vel- vet strap over the other, with a twist of tulle falling upon the arm. We have grown accustomed to the strap for sle2ve substitution, but this winter there are to be variations. The straps, if used, are adorned with jeweled slides, or ur? arranged in zigzags, from below the erned brocades in blue pink and crimson ered silks are 2 heavy but Pink and iresses of with lace, will be Ame n lisse, mc a than their in even more need a chapter. There 13 » to which it can be put for be employed. Pink Leads With White. As to color, perhaps pink, next to white, Pink and black are constantly Rose pink is in great demand, is revived. Delicat2 shades of used with green and Blue is almost as popu- ummer. Yellow and er and pale green and no w: arm to the top of then across ar the decolletage, and the shoulder. If long ‘sleeves 1 with a low-cut gown, they are wed to drop from the shoulder to show e top of the arm, the latest wrinkle boing to cut the top of the transparent sleeve in deep Vandyke points and catch these for | Support to the velvet straps, the favorit2 = or jeweled buckles being used for enings. Twist of Tulle for Sleeves. The newest sleeves, however, is a twist of tulle or chiffon, drooping upon the arm without strap or other visible means of holding the bodice in place. The effect at first glance is startling, and the most that can be adduced in favor of the whim is that to narrow-shouldered women the ight additional breadth given to the figure not unbecoming. The decolletage may be square, heart- shaped, round or pointed. It is rumored t an extremely low cut will be intro- d, but, so far as concerns toilets al- fa! i ready completed, there is little variation from previous seasons, the appearance of a lower line in front being given by the ab- sence of the strap and the presence of the wisp of falling tulle, rather than by any real difference in the corsage. The princess gown will not be abandoned, though it is suffering many modifications. A recent example of its use was in the fashioning of a dress of soft yellow satin, of the shade of the Marechal Niel rose. A wide Indian scarf of a delicate white crape embroidered with pink flowers was draped to form the heart-shaped decolletage and fell over the entire front of the skirt. Black tulle puffs answered for sleeves, and at the right of the corsage was a cluster of pink roses and white ostrich tips. A princess dress lately worn by Bern- hardt was more easily recognizavie. The material was a beautiful flowered brocade on a white ground, and the cut was of a long, sweeping style, with yet a suggestion of looseness, beloved of Bernhadt before it was of fashion. A spray of flowers caught the drapertes at the side of the waist, but not in such manner as to interfere with the line of the figure. A deep flounce of ex- quisite lace fell about the decolletage. White Gavze and Roses. A dress of embroidered white gauze over white satin has a square-cut corsage with trimmings of lace ruffies. On one shoulder is a cluster of roses and at the waist a bread belt of rose-pink velvet with a dia- mond buckle. The gauze draperies of the skirt are embroiderea in delicate vine pat- terns. Recent examples of dancing dresses in- clude black tulle with pink bows. black tulle over white satin, pink and white striped moire partly veiled in tulle, white eta with flounces of accordion-pleated n, white accordion chiffon embroid- ered in’ silver and brilliants, turquoise blue tulle with sash of orange velvet, flashing white and gold net with contrasting sleeves of wrinkled black net, and a pretty rose- pink toilette with tulle ruchings running over the whole dress and supported by tiny puffings of whit2 mouscline de sole. A striking black and white toilet has an open skirt of white satin with the sides ng at the waist, but spreading below to display an underskirt of black Cnantilly. The satin is handsomely ornamented with jet designs. One side of the low budice is of lace, the other of satin, and there are black velvet straps across the shouiders. Luce Shawl Overskirts. Long overdresses of lace—either black or white—are used with satin skirts, instead of lace covering the entire gown. Some- times this lace overdress has a princess cut and is prolonged at the back to fail upon the train. An approved bodice finish is an edge of black velvet bordering the corsage top next the skin and giving an effective back- ground for jewels. Below this comes a lace scarf fastened by a jeweled slide in front, and having its long ends caught again to the waistbelt of black velvet. High bodices for theater wear show man: fancifui designs. Some of the prettiest have sleeves of a material contrasting with the w as for example, white lace with a black lace bodic chiffon, The hair 1s worn low quite as often as high, and the approved ornament 1s a wreath of fine green leaves. For those who do not fancy this, wisps of tulle are avail- , OF With one of pink ; able. One begins to ree earrings, but not in large numbers. The strings of pearls so fashionable last winter are still worn, A striking evening wrap is a long ‘ape of orange velvet nearly covered with frills of biack Chantilly laid over orange chiffon. The frills are so arranged as to form a deep point back and front, and are headed by a steel and jet passementerie, encircling, the shoulders. The extravagantly high tab- bed collar fs finished in front with a scarf of yellow lace and a bunch of roses. A shorter cape is of white satin velled with a deep flounce of black chiffon. There is a high collar with a full ruffle of white lace, which cascades down the front over stole ends of black chiffon. The finishing touch is given by large outstanding revers of black velvet. THE LINEN OUTFIT. An Economical Buying List for a ' Small Household. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. Given a cottage or small apartment, self- st room—required to find of table linen and bedding help and a ed should have for its outfit three es for its square pillows ts, which measure a full length of the mattress, -d and protected covers; of a quality easily laun- t, and two pairs of ot which one pair tely—these consti- To them may be and comfortable. lude a best cloth really govd st inc three one dozen . lavish hosp wash day wo y in each case. ezsit xim for essentials only, plus remunera- equals thrift.” in mind, one can easil puch can or must bi nd, when the wives turn toward the ly: one pair of sheets S ure sufficient Two table- and one-third will insure ‘onditions y deter- 2 added joy of conscio = ee “It said that Dame Fortune every man’s doc was her e who called on me. nd two dozen nap- | added | thoughts | ughter, Mis- —Boston Trav- FRESHENING HATS. It is Time to Substitute Ribbons for Faded Flowers. From Harper's Bazar. Hats are easily done over if one has any taste In millinery. Faded flowers or flowers that are ragged at the edges do not look well, particularly if they are of ght colors, It is best, as soon as the weather really 1s 1, to substitute fresh ribbons for the faded flowers, and add a few bright leaves cr some darker style of trimming. There is a perfect craze at present for th> new style of hat—the rough straw worn down over the face and trimmed with double bows of black ribbon, with a buckle in the er and sore bright flowers in the back uncer th brim. The same shape has been worn all summer, with flowers and rosettes of chiffon. These can easily be ripped off, | and the black ribkon bows make the hat lcok as though it had just come out of a bandbox. Some of the darker colored icwers can be freshened again py cutting | off the edges with sharp scissors. Of ccurse, if they are faded, the only thing to | do with flowers is to throw them away, for | they are the poorest kind of tawUry finery | that can be worn. Chiffon and mousselin3 | de soie that have become goiled and dusty should share the same fate. There is nothing that can be done that will make | them possible to be worn again, but thay can be replaced by fresh ripbbon and stiff uills. Ostrich feathers that have gotten abby would best be sent to the cleaner’s and recurled, and are thon a good trimming for the autumn. The long quills curled | over at the end cannot have much done to | them. They must follow in the path of the faded flowers and the dirty chiffon. It does not cost a great deal to have hats cleaned, and as there are several weeks | when straw hats are to be worn, it will often pay, if the hat has been an expensive one, to send it to the cleai Both black and white straws come back very much the better for the trip; but, on the other hand, just now a grzat many pretty little shapes can be bought for very little money, and it is perhaps better to buy one sinart hat again than to do over several that are shabby. At all the large shops there are still some hats to be had, and these are sold for almost anything that one will give, | for milliners never care to carry over a ck for another season. ce cen First Girl—“I was in front last night, dear, to see you play Juliet.” Second Girl—“Yes, I know you were. But you needn’t have talked so loud all fhrough my best scenes.” (. First Girl—“Oh, but you must be mistaken, dear. @% I never talk in my sleep.""—Punch. It couldn’t possibly bave been MUD FOR REMOV G SUNBURN, Suggesti to Girls Who Return With ‘Tanned Complexion, From the Chicago Chronicle, The up-to-date girl who brings a “lovely case of tan” back from the country with her is trying w rather peculiar remedy for the injured complexion this summer. Every one wants to reach the city with the sun- burned cheeks and throat which tell of out- door and vacation Joys and jollification, but nobody w ints the said cheeks and throat to remain so deeply colored long. So complex- jon, tan, freckle and sunburn lotions are = ys fi nensely popular in the summer- ime and the summei nine immer girl tries them by the The newest cosmetic o Just plain, common, ordinary mud. Sc if you meet a girl returning from the neighborhood of the nearest park very early some bright morning and carefully carry- ing a mysterious-looking cardboard box or a bottle you may know her errand and the ccrtents of the cherished receptacle ‘ike mud is the best for w ’ end complexion and she hi as be ee ee oe Merely wet earth or @ lake beache: ck yi will net do half mwa creas The reasons for t mud are not nearly so w So well : ~ thentic as the cures He eee it undonbtedly effec In many parts of Canada and of tho me ern aS Where the hot sun and the dry Minds combine to parch and discolor det. ate complexions the country girls krow Trech “Cl, What will make and keep them esh and fair again. They are fond Plastering thelr faces, hands and throats night and morning, sometimes, leaving the easant-looking’ but effi: on all night in aggravated caste whee, kind of sunburn w and makes itself aeees pe is nothing better tha And the city girl has duired this knowledg pri itself, from h. ‘0 do its beautifying wor! should be applied over'a skit new eaah in soap and warm water. It presumably acts by drawing out of the epidermis all the m her Hst is mud— Clay- hitening the hands r For the listers, peels off rally unpleasant there n this homely remedy. somehow or other ac- €, as new-old as the er rural sister. the darkness out of the ba plexion. It docs this just as hur Woodsmen in general know’ thet, aud draw the poison out of insect or even snake bites if applied quickly and copiously and changed often. Animals know this, too, as witness the speed and directness with which @ snake-bitten dog or horse reared in tha country will frequently make for the near- est stream when bitten by a poisonous rep- lle. Here, half-buried in the sticky mud of the shores, the yature-wise animal will remain until instinct tells him son has been all removed. “bat the pol- The country girl who beilev cori on beantiqes uses it ventive and a remedial agent. girl, in all probability, will employ feonisits the last-named capacity. But if she tries it once, plastering her face, hands and throat thickly with it at night ‘and allowing it to remain on the skin despite the unpleasant. ness of the resultant feeling and appear- ance until the morning, she will be more than rewarded when ‘the horrid-looking stuff is washed off with warm water and — = oe oa ork and charming fresh- airness 0: e1 ness and fatrne er erstwhile sun-spoil- ———_~+.-____ Tomato Souffie. Take half a pint of tomato pulp that has been rubbed through a sieve, an ounce of butter, two ounces of grated cheese, an ounce and a half of boiled macaroni, an ounce of stale bread crumbs and a teaspoon- ful of made mustard; mix all together in a saucepan and stir over the fire until boil- ing; take from the fire, let cool; add firs: es in mud as a both as a pre- the yolks of two eggs and then the whites of three, with salt and pepper. Turn into @ buttered dish, and set Into the oven to bake quickly. Dust over with grated Par- HOUSEHOLD HINTS The squab or young domestic pigeon is @ bird far more worthy the attention of culi- nary amateurs than‘it receives. There are two sorts, the light and the dark meated, the latter usually cemmanding the higher price, though there is practically little dif- ference in the flavor, providing both are grain fed. Many of/the pigeons sold in the city markets have fseen nourished on the refuse of the streets,’ and have gained there- by a rank flavor, that has caused many to condemn squabs in toto, Properly fed and given access to plenty of good, pure wa- ter, the squab becomes a bird that can hardly be too highly respected by discrim- inating gastronomers. The young pigeons are at their best when broiled or cooked in the chafing dish. In cleaning, care must be taken not to break the little sac which contains the ertrails. Split the bird down the back, skin, and season each one with a quartei of a saltspoon of salt, and a speck of pepper. If cooked in the ‘chafing dish, allow one tablespoontul olive oil or melted butter to each bird, and allow them to stand an hour in it. Put two tablespoon- fuls oil or butter in the pan, and when smoking hot broil the squabs, three at a time, with the wings fastened down. Serve on thin slices of toast. If the squabs are to be broiled over coals they should be split, rubbed with salt, pepper and cracker dust, before broiling. Many bon vivants insist that a crisp slice of bacon should accom- pany each bird. With the frequent service of fruits, these harvest days, the table linen is apt to suf- fer. Before sending to the laundry the table cloths and napkins should be care- fully examined and the spots removed, as soap sets the stains. Most fruit stains, taken in season, can be easily removed from linen by putting the stained portion over a bowl and pouring a stream of boil- ing hot water through it. When they are obstinate, however, acids must be used. This part of the work should alwa: be done under the supervision of the mistress, to see that all needful precautions are taken to prevent destroying the fabric it- self. Oxalic acid, allowing three ounces of the crystals to one pint of water, will be found useful to be kept on hand for this especial purpose. Wet the stain with the solution, and hold Over hot water or in the sun. The instant the spot disappears rinse well. Wet the stain with ammonia, then rinse again. This will many times save liner. Javelle water is excellent for white goods, and may be made at home or purchased at the druggists. A good rule for making it calls for four pounds of washing soda, dissolved in four quarts of soft water. Boil ten minutes, take from the fire and add one pound of chloride of lime. Cool quickly, bottle and keep tightly cork- ed. ‘his is very strong and must be handled with extreme care. Peach stains are the kardest of all fruit stains to re- move, but a weak solution of chloride of lime, with infinite patience in its applica- tion, will frequently effect the desired re- sult, Persons suffering from diabetic troubles often tind difficulty in getting the pure gluten bread at the bakers. It can, how- be readily made at home, with the uirance that neither milk, which con- r, nor sugur itself enters into its m. In the winter the sponge can ight, but in the summer it is more advisable to set itdn the morning and bake later in the da¥. Dissolve half a cake of compressed yeast in half a cup of luke- warm water, with a teaspoonful of salt, tablespoonful of butter four to make stiff batter. When thoroughly mixed, beat in the whites of two eggs, and set to rise. When light add only sufficient gluten flour to mold the loav: as it should as soft as it can possibly be. handled. Put in greased pans, let it rise again until light and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. punch continues to be the favorite age at 5 o'clock teas. To compound it allow one tablespoonful of any strong tea to a quart of boiling water, Pour the water on the tea and allow it to stand unt! coid. Strain. Meantime add to a pint of sugar the juice of three lemons, the juice of three oranges, the pulp and juice of one sired- ded pineapple, and allow all to stand until the sugar is dissolved. When ready to serve, add the tea to the fruit juice and pulp, with a quart of Apollinaris ter and a box of fresh berries or thinly-sliced peacnes. Pour over a block of ice in the punch bowl. The genuine “Russian” tea is not tea made and allowed to cool, but tea just brewed. One teaspoonful of tea is allowed to each cup of boiling water, which is then allowed to steep on the hearth or table for fifteen minutes. The glasses are then filled three-quarters full of cracked ice, chipped so fine that it cools the tea immediately, and then boiling tea poured on. One tea- spoonful of lemon juice and one slice of lemon completes the cup which “cheers.” Every one who ever came in contact with tar realizes how much harder It is to get it off than it was to get it on. The fisherfolk and boatmen along the Hudson have found a “sovereign remedy’’—in the vernacular of the patent medicine man—for its removal. Sturgeon oil, liberally applied, removes the sticky bleckness almost immediately. A point to be remembered in the broiling of fish is that fish must not be turned while broiling. Put the inside of the fish next to the coals, and let it cook through. When done, hold the skin side to the fire just a moment to brown, and serve at once. The trying yellow spots frequently left by sewing machine oll on white goods may be removed by rubbing the stain with a cloth wet with ammonia before washing with soap. Salt fish may be quickly freshened by soaking tn sour milk. ——_—_--______ To Saye the Knees. From the Cincinnati Commerclal-Tribune. This is the season of marbles, and the small boys’ trousers and stockings suffer in. consequence. “Please tell me," once asked a desperate mother, “how I can k2ep my boy from wearing out the knees of his trousers?” “You might kill the boy,” was the an- swer, “but the laws of the land forbid that. The only other sure way we know of is to let him wear kilts. Knee prot2ctors are sold in all the stores, and may be casily made at home. They are simply diamond-shaped pieces of black cloth, made double and bound with braid on the edges, which cover the kne2s and are kept in place by elastic straps passing un- der the knee. One ingenious mother makes knee pro- tectors for her small boy from the tops of the stockings, hemming them at the bottom and running narrow elastic tape in the cas- ing thus formed. This holds the knee pro- tector in position below the knee. Above it the garter retains and keeps it smooth. Many of the trousers sold for boys now come with pieces for mending. When this becomes necessary neither patch nor darr the knee. Instead rip both ssams, evt tie worn part off evenly and set the patch in carefully, taking care that the figures, whether stripe, thread or check, match ex- actly. Then press the seam, and if your work is well done it wi!l require a sharp eye to detect it. ——__+ e+ —____ Burnt Wood as on Ornamen From the Ladies’ Home Journal. The decoration of! wood by the applica- tion of heated irons is an art of long stand- ing, and many interesting examples of old work are occasionally to be found. For a trifling sum a complete’apparatus may be bcught. which inclades a platinum point that is kept heated while the work is in Ppregress, not by electricity, as many sup- pose, but by fumes of benzine, which Is supplied by pressure on a rubber bellows wkich is connected by tubing to a bottle half filled with benzine. When beginning the work, the point should not be heated in any flame but that of an alcoho! lamp. Any other flame would be liable to smoke and ruin the point. In burning outlines re- member that to make a broad, firm line it is not necessary to press. The lines are to be scorched, not incised. The point is held and gvided much in the same manner as a drawing pencil, but some little practice is needed to enable the worker to pass it smoothly and readily over the wood, the tendency of all beginners being to allow it to rest ard make dots. No discouragement, however, mvst be felt at this, as with a little practice the manipulation will be- ceme easy, and the worker be able to make dark or light strokes at will. Bold out- lines and strongly burned inds come out well on ordinary white wooden articles, such as tables, stools, chairs, bowls, plates. racks. ete. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Passing of the Summer Gown and Shirt Waist. Small Biack Hats Are Useful Posses- Just Now—Two Stylish Models, Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 15, 1898. In the last week the character of the gown seen on the streets has changed more compl>tely than has the weather. Last week shirt waists and sailors were in evi- dence, as well as linen gowns and coitons of all descriptions. Today scarcely a shirt waist is te be scen. This does not mean that shirt waists are simply concealed by coats and wraps. It means that they have been called in, and the woman who takes off her jacket In a public place displays a waist of silk or wool, usually the former. Shirt waists will be worn again later. Many women wear them all winter under heavy ceats, as they find them more comfortable than woolen waists. But they will only be worn when there is no possible chance of the necessity of removing the coat which covers them. Outside of the seclusion of one’s own fireside, the shirt waist has van- ished for the year 189. Dark linen and denim gowns will be worn to some extent for morning errands, espe- cially it there is a flare of hot weather to tempt one to find coolness in light mate- rials. And in the country, of course. none of .these rules holds good. There cvttons and shirt waists may be worn as late as one pleases, and there is no one to say nay but the weather. Two-piece cloth gowns which have done service for traveling all summer now come to the fore, but in place of a shirt waist under them one ‘s a fancy front of lace or silk when the coat is thrown open, or there may be a waist of silk, or one of the waistcoats mentioned in an article of re- cent date. The silk waists which are worn under a coat are often of a shade contrast- ing or harmonizing with the coat and skirt. But if one is inclined to find a coat too heavy a burden until late in autumn, then the silk waist must be the same shade as the skirt to be quite en regie. For although the erate waist refuses to be downed, and all indications point to gay bodlces and dark, serviceable skirts for evening wear this winter, the fact still remains that for street wear bodices shoulé now bear no relation to the skirt with which they are donned. Some Recent Examples. Many instances of this are seen among the smart gowns of travelers just in town for a few days in shopping, or in early autumn traveling gowns being turned out by modistes. A simple yet admirable gown of this sort has a gray cloth skirt, witn the flouince, which is quite wide, tucked In t tucks about an inch apa of gray silk taffeta, of shade as the skirt. It is » tucke? with tiny criss-cross tucks, which divide it into large square white taffeta stock and a whi affeta chemisette, whi the turn-back lapels of the waist are al ot white taffeta. Of course, it is nothing but _& very pretty and becoming shirt we but with a skirt to match it it is a Cignified and s us gown. black straw hat with a band of white ribbon and two large cart wheeis of white miroir velvet on left side completed a gown which wilt be serviceable—with the addition of a jacket for col ‘until snow flies. A Yale blue silk shirt waist, with a blue cloth skirt. was also noticed the other day at a hotel every one stops for a few days at this season of the year, although living there permanently would not be considered by that pertion of our population who be- Icng to the lilies of the field In thefr array not in the fact that they tofl not. For, whether we follow Dame Fashion or follow the plow, we all toll. ou_want to make your spring gown answer for fall get a felt hat a little earlier than you otherwise would. If you have a smart autumn gown the probabilities are that a smart straw hat, trimmed in more serviceable and less frivolous materials than those used a month ago, will be pre- scribed by the maker of the gown. Thus is the balance preserved. The felt hats to be worn during the next two months are not, of course, heavy and dark; they are usually tourist and sombrero or’ military shapes. The military shapes, by the way, should be chosen with caution. For, although we are patriotic and eager to serve those who have risked their lives for their country and ours, yet there are better ways of showing it than by adopting their hats shaped ~vith- out modification. Spangled hats, or hats trimmed with jet, are very popular. They were a little too heavy to wear during the summer months, and are, therefore, quite fresh now, although most of them were added to the wardrobes last spring. A small black hat is always a safe invest- ment and generally carries off a gown of any shade. Modish and Light Weight. Besides the New York women who don light-weight cloth gowns at this season of the year and eschew shirt waists, there are also other women who also eschew shirt waists, but who take kindly to gay silks, crepons, veiling and wool grenadine These light-weight materials are really more suitable for autumn, and gay colors seem suited to the changing foliage. et one can distinctly see in this cosmopolitan city the dividing line between the two ways of dressing for thi: on of the year. Only yesterday two New York women came in town for a day's shopping. One wore a taffeta silk with a plaid of white and a sort of magenta pink (it is a pretty shade, al- though there are no adiectives to make it sound so), with a chemisette of white lace over white satin, and a black straw hat, trimmed with feathers and faced with white straw. The other wore a black broad- cloth gown, which she had brought over from Paris a month ago, to be worn this autumn. It was most simply made, and its only trimming was tiny steel buttons. Her hat was a small affair of jet, which turned back from her face, and hada large jet bowknot on the left side. Both gowns were beautiful and contrasted admirabl and each exemplified one of the two modes of gowns seen on the streets of our metrop- olis during the fall of the year. MABEL BOYD. See Cleaning Laces and Ribbons. From Harper's Bazar. It is not always possible to buy new laces and ribbons, not to speak of chiffon, but if they are taken off the gowns and given a bath in naphtha, the lace washed in water with a little borax, they will look quite fresh again—fresh enough, in most in- stances, to be put back where they were. A dark blue gown that had a white front of chiffon was done over the other day by nett 1a front of white taffeta silk that nad becn treated to a bath in naphtha. Over the silk was put som? chiffon that had been cleaned in the same way, and it looked quite like new, but it is better not to put cleaned chiffon or mousseline de soie on cleaned silk. Lace will look very much bet- ter, and the best of all will look black lace over the whit. The big bows that are worn at the throat, made of pleated black mous- seline de sole, are of great advaniage in freshening up a gown. They should be made into a bow before being put on, and can be attached to a band of ribbon’ that will form the collar. If the black is not becoming against the face, it can easily be softened by turning down a piece of white lace, or ona of the very fine embroidered linen collars edged with lace that are -» much worn at present. A belt and sash ends of satin ribbon of medium width often hide a lot of wear and tear on the back of @ gown and quite remodel the skirt. —__+e+___ Quite a Linguist. From the Detroit Free Press. “Does your husband speak more than one language, Mrs. Parvenu?” “Oh, yes, he talks war, horse, base ball and picycle—one just as well as tha other.” + 0+—____ His Interpretation. From Pvek. ‘Aunt Hetty—‘What does this paper mean by “‘the best people?” ‘Uncle Hiram—“The American people, I suppose. ——_-o+—___ Not a Stickler. From Tit-Bits. Mr. Rich—‘You ask my daughter in mar- riage—er—what may your income be?” Mr. Stoney Broke—“I will leave that en- ly to you, sir!” OSS ecoows SOOODOIOOOAAIDOSSoeDo er x Cleveland’s Baking’ Powder is bought for Army and Navy HINTS ON APRONS. They Should Alw: My Lady From Harper's Bazar. . Aprons may be as ornamental as their Wear2rs choose to make them, but as their purpose is useful rather than decorative elaborate braidirg and trimming seem a lit- tle out of place. The apron’s design is to protect the skirt, and as an apron may easily be launder2d, while it is a matter of toil and pains to cleanse a dress, one may as well have aprons in plenty in convenient places. An apron in the kitchen ts taken for granted; in the nursery and ths sewing room it is equally serviceable; but an apron is not meant for the drawing room, and should not be worn there. Nurses’ and waitresses’ aprons are large end full, with tucks or broad hems, ar wide strings tid in a bow at the back. These are usually provided by the mistre and are her property. There lack of them, for a maid’s apron requires freshness, and she should not be permitted to wear a soiled one, nor should she be com pelled to wash and iron her aprons ofver than once a week. For children aprons come in varlous pat- terns, but nothing 1s prettier than the quaint-looking garment hanging full from a well-fitted yoke to the bottom of the frock, finished with a broad hem, and with large sleeves gathered into a band at the wrist. These aprons may be mad? of cam bric, lawn, holland or gingham, and may be whice or colored, as the mother prefers. Our little school girls have ceased to ar aprons, and it is a pity, for they added much to the attire of their mothers and grandmothers in days gone by, and were very useful articles of dress besides. An alpaca apron, braided or bound with and provided with pockets, used to be prizad by little women going to and for high days and holidays a silk apron was a badge of distin One often meets elderly ladies in villages, sntlewomen who have not followed the hion, except as to do so has pleasod the! own taste, and they cl apron of black silk, which has a dignity of its own, not unlike the official insignia worn by the members of an order. And, in- deed, it is an crder of stateliness, sweet- >ss and benignity to which these dear old dies belong, and the world would be poor- and more sorrowful without them. The blue-checked apron from time im- memorial has appertained to the cook and to the lady who does her own hous2work. No other garment is at once so honest, so obliging and so obviously utilitarian in its office and intention. Homely, clean and strong, it reminds one of ginger cookies brown from the baking and of spicy flour, of old-time apple pies, of the abundant pro- vision found in farm houses and colonial mansions. As much as she needs dinner gowns and evening wraps and sailor suits and rainy-day costumes, she needs, if she would be equipped for every possible occa- sion, a supply of gingham aprons. ++ ___ WHEN KISSES TASTE SALTY. ‘= Have a Place in Wardrobe. greatly school, It’s a Sign That Her System Holds Too Much Chloride of Sodium. From the Chicago Chronicle. “I don't know what in the world can be the matter with my wife these day: a fat man to his fat friend. ‘They were tak- ing a heating glass of beer to cool off on a very hot day in a quiet corner of a down- town resort known as the den of the Five O'Clock Club. he's not sick abed, I hope,” thetic reply. ‘0; she’s around all right, und seems to be in the best of health and spirits. But got so lately the salt just simply out of her every time I get her angry cited. I noticed it first when I kissed one day not tong ago in making up a litue spat we had.” The other fat man braced up in his chair and showed the deepest interest. “I know, Was the I know,” Fe broke in. “My wife has only just got over it. Don't your wife's lips | teste li. rock salt every time you kies h Rock : alt! Like saltpeter, sometime But that’s when she’s ina bad te: All the time, though, she perspires salt. “So much’ so that it gets ito her eyes and almost blinds her. per. all about it. The physicians call it hyperi- drosis, but it’s worse. That means to per- spire too much; but this ‘salty wife’ disease —and, by the way, it is very dangerous— doesn’t seem to have a scientific nime. It leads to sudden death unless taken care of radicaily.” The fat man with the ‘ ‘YY wife’ cured drained his glass of beer ner and «sked the fat man with the cured “salty wife” to tell him all about it. “You see, it is this way,” began the one whose wife was safely out of the pickle. “Sodium chloride, or common salt, really exists in every animal tissue and fluid, and is present in the blood in tolerably con- stant proportions. It is introduced with the food, either as a part of it or a flavor. Now, in the body there goes on constantly a phe- nomenon described as osmosis—a filtering of the life fluids through the tissues or mem- branes. The salt helps this—acts as a force. It also helps to keep up the solution of the albumenoids. When the supply by the food is maintained the salt 1s discharged through all the channels of elimination in a certain proportion. If the salt supply is cut off from the food none passes uway from the system. The blood holis on to its dimin- ished supply. This shows how necessary salt is to health. Another funny thing, the more you take into you in excess of physi- cal necessity the less you let go of, and the less you take in the more you lose by elim- ination. Strange, isn’t it? “Now, this ‘salty woman’ disease is not common, and the doctors don’t seem to know much about it, except that it 1s dan- gerous. It seems to be a phase of nervous disorder that causes the salt to leave the system without having performed its prop- er work. When the nervous system is un- duly excited—that is to say, when you make your wife hot at you or she gets out of sorts with the children—all the pores of her body discharge salt in volumes. She gets so in time that you can tell her moods by the difference in the degrees of salty taste you get from her lips.” “What comes of this trouble?” “In time it causes anaemia, general breaking down of the nervous system snd death from heart failure.” “Can it be cured?” “Yes; you want to send your wife to a doctor'at once. He will have to arrange her diet for her and give her some medi- cine to loosen up the glands of the system and get them to working. Our yhysician gave my wife an old formula ef iodide of potassium and mercury, and a couple of days after she started taking it I cidn't get any more salt in my kisses, a.though I touched her up once or twice to see if her temper was also losing its bad taste. It takes several weeks’ treatment to complete the cure. No Diplomat. ‘From the Cleveland Leader. She—“You have asked me for just one kiss. Would you quit teasing me if I were to let you have it? He (sagerly)—“Yes.” She—“Then I won't.” houlu be no | red, | still to the fuil | A PLEASANT PASTIME. Kite Parties Jast the 7 Evening’s & From the New York Herald ing for an Did you think, remembering your boya00d fiying was simply a youthful am on the one hand and a new sclence other? If you did you are very far wr Kite flying has not yet ri: to the of a great national diversion, it nor 1s it likely to, but the latest pha it is that society has taken it pleasing pastir on the n up as a are generally given at partic oun try houses particularly well situated for this sport from being elther upon or close to a hill that somewhat commands the country, or at house in the center of a broad, level plain, or at house: mn the set shore for it ential that all cumstances and surroundings be fa. to kite flying, especially s © the k y ers of both sexes are very new at this game. A tine breezy night is « and the party marching forth separate ‘into cou- ples. There are half as many box kites as there are men and girls, and at the s a Kite is as: ed to each couple. The and regulations are that two men or girls shall never be working at any and this is strictly adhered At the signal the Kites are started, rules two kite, by force of luck or by skill in t catch the breeze at once, and in the air, pulling on the kite string ¥ ously. As tb successful kites high above, with many a swirl they look strikingly picturesque (especia if the night be very clear and well m it), the candle light gleaming through their sides in faint rays. Once up aloft with these kites t great problem is to keep the candles alight. A | third or half have their lights suddenly ex- | tinguished, and the beauty and strangeness | of these great floating glowworms of the | air is partia at least, lost. It ts an hour | of delightful uncertainty. The turn of for- tune with a perfectly managed kite may e Its light go out; ¥ controlled kite may keep its light until it is finally pulled to the ground: but, on the other ha misadvised jerk m for the night and mass, in midair. y end that kite’s A Five-Year-Old Girl Comes From Po- land to America. From the Cincinnat! Enguirer. A number of passengers at the railroad depot in Cincinnati gathered in the waiting room around a very interesting little mite of a girl, perhaps five years old, who sat by herself, hugging a doll. The little one was pretty, with large black eyes, raven black hair, rather dirty hands, but a face 80 pleasant and full of light that it natur- ally attracted everybody. Nobody could talk to little Bohumals Homa, for that was her name, yet ladies who bent down over her seemed to under- stand her dainty foreign jargon. Around the child's neck was a string that held sug- pended upon her bosom the photograph of @ young woman holding a babe in her arms. To the photograph was a note writs ten in the Polish language stating the name of the child, whither bound, and asking Strangers to show her along her way. The child had come all the way from Bremen, in north Germany, all alone, and was on her way to her mother, whose name is Anna Klobosa and who lives at 1708 | South Broadway, St. Louis. The place from which she started originally could not be learned. Her clothes were very | poor, and her little shoes were made of the She carried of leather. little primary coarsest kind baggage except a which were a few candies, cakes and large envelope contained her transportation. Of thei little one was very careful, and would cry in a frightened manner if anybody touched them. From steamship captain to railroad con- ductor her guardianship had run since she no was first tagged and sent afloat down one of the world’s g arteries, but every- body amused her, and before the train took her away for her St. Le home the little one had made friends of nearly all in the big waiting room se ins on Silver. From the London Mail. To remove stains from silver, especially such as are caused by medicine or neglect, use sulphuric acid, rubbing it on with a lit- le flannel pad, then rinsing the articles most carefully at once. For less ingrained - stains the pulp of a lemon whose juice has been used for lemon squash, may be recom- mended as both efficient and harmless. Indian silver and brass is always cleaned by natives with lemons or limes. It may be as well to warn housekeepers in these days when pretty serving is such a consia- eration that when one has to reheat food in a silver dish from which it is impossible to move the eatable, a baking tin should be haif filled with hot water, a doubled sheet of paper should be placed in this and the silver dish stood upon it, after which it will take no harm from the effects of the oven heat. Again, as eggs and vinegar are alike apt to discolor plated or silver dishes, always run a little weak aspic jelly over the silver dish before dishing the mayonnaise, ete,, to be served in it, and if this coating is al- lowed to set before putting in the other mas terials the dish will suffer no damage that hot soap and water will not easily remove When out of silver polish and somethi is required at once, try as a substitute bal ing soda. Sprinkle a little of the soda upon a damp cloth, rub well the silver to be pole ished and then thoroughly wipe with a dry chamois skin. s = Oat an Owl, 1 Oregonian, City Treasurer Hachensy is one of those old-fashioned men who get up first in the morning, build fires and make some coffee for the refreshment of himself and others as they turn out. Monday evening he laid the fire in the kitchen stove as usual before going to bed. Yesterday morning when bé p2ned the stove door to apply a match to the kindling he was startled by a vicious snapping and the sight of some hideous, sooty looking goblin, with huge eyes and ears, which caused him to jump half wey across kitchen and imagine the devil or one of his imps had taken possession of the stove. On recovering his equanimity he mede an investigation and found that a gray owl had made tts way down the ehim- ney, through the stovepipe and draught, in- to the stove. Mr. Hachsney could hardly believe his senses, and at first imagini that some one had been playing a bebats April fool trick on him, but the disclaimers of ail the family and the fact that the owl ‘was liberally covered with soot and ashes convinced him that the bird had come dowa the chimney. —__—-+--_______ A Test Abit From Puck. The test of Spanish statesmanship is ability to reconcile the people to bad newm