Evening Star Newspaper, September 17, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 1898-24 PAGES. 17 RUSSIAN TAILOR-MADE COSTUME. Aer to, by 8 a artwta, HAoK A. Less Oe Petersburg, QUIET STREET GOWNS Hints From the Russian Capital on Fabrics and Cut. THE NOVELTIES IN PLAID CREPON ge “Toreador” Red Waists With Black and White Skirts. REMBRANDT geen HATS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. ST. PETERSBURG, September 5, 1898. Fall and winter fashions are now fully in- urated and all important changes are acknowledged. It is evident that while at | home and evening gowns are rich with trimmings and draperi he street and tailor-made gown affects as much simplic s this sea of superabundance in ures will allow. illustrated model follows this rule | sure to appeal to the woman of who, however she may express her lity In the style and col gown and evening gow @ quiet neutralit, street. Goblin green, a new grayish green Our and is taste individu hous: , will prefer | in her appearance on the shade, on the season's newest color card, ts the | color of the smooth-faced cloth which con- | es the gown. The skirt is composed of five unlined serpen flounce the other, each stitched with rows of dark- er green sewing silk, the highest flounce having but two rows, with ore additional Tow to each lo The flounces are all mounted ¢ Kirt of goblin green taffet n a pinked balayeuse of ne , one above the same material around the inside of the | hem. | The skirt is worn with any independent | ehirt waist and the jacket of goblin green cloth still ad modified Russian was so popular st year. This ined with white silk and for ad- warmth with an interlining of flan e is qu tight, with ked fullness at der forming tion for large col- of Rus: » and th s the neck and ears. Jewel Buckle and Clasp. The fullness at th a a belt of goblir tistic buckle An e sive n closing of the t int shape 0: cious stones, w the little live f ately tired. wrinkle of Dame F. est jewelry h covers th flaring collar is shown at the} the left side. It ts | odic ft d_set with p h wings set tting over rut for t many triz ignate th beth woolen and silk, are again fous uses, and’ the colors S$ are So humerous that they will commend themselves to any taste, while the pri re such as to equally Suit all purses. Plaids, which have now held public fancy during several @ shown as a grounds re; ors approp! “vm a founda t nd and 1 wool € $ combinations producing a chang wb ing of black and red, black green, black and h black and i black ar ed wn, and trimmings to and becoming of th sdices with or velvet vests veiled with lace. Rough Effects Still Shown. Boucle effects are again in evidence, par- ticularly in plaid designs with black tlakes, which make up into charming street gowns for young ladies who prefer self-trimmed gowns, as the richness of the coloring of these boucle plaids snakes trimmings vun- ecessary. Many a fetching novelty ts shown In the line of wraps and jackets. Some wraps ar a@ military aspect, and are made of colored sill re pur- | lors of her | ing er lace with long ends decorated with a flcunce or bunch of violets A Very striking militar cloth with black and white check and fas- tened with large white pearl buttons. There a hood lined with the cneck and fringed with red. Toreador” red is much fancied by the part of the fashionable world and jackets and independent shirt w Steeped in this gory hue, to be worn ¥ black and white checked skirts und large plumed black felt Rembrandt hats—a style well suited to a young face aad lithe figure. Aae.* (A. Izampanb, St! Petersburg. s00— Lemons as Medicine. From the Philadelphia Press. Lemon juice sweetened with crushed sugar will relieve a cough. For feverishness and unnatural thirst soften a lemon by rolling on a hard sur- face, cut off the top, add sugar and work it down into the lemon with a fork, then suck slow During the warm months a sense of cool- ness, comfort and invigoration can be pro- duced by the free use of lemonede. For six large glasses of lemonade use six large, lemons; roll on a hard ¢ so y extracted. Peel Add sufficient sugar to sweeten, v it well into the juice before add- water. Hot lemonade cape is of red loaf or will break up a cold if iken at the start. Make it the same as i lemonade, only use bciling water in- ad of cold water, and use ubout half as much sugar. A piece of lemon, or stale bread moist- ened with lemon juice, bound a corn, will cure it. Renew night and morning. The first application will produce soreness, but if treatment is persisted in for a reas- enable length of time a cure will be ef- fected. The discomfort caused by sore and ten- der feet may be lessened, if not entirely cured, by applying slices of lemon on the feet. ‘To cure chilblains, take a piece of lemon, sprinkle fine salt over it and rub the feet well. Repeat, 1f necessary. Lemon juice will relieve roughness an vegetable stains on the hands. After ha ing the hands in hot soap suds rub them with a piece of lemon. This will prevent chapping and make the hands soft and white. +] A Flattery Mirror. From the Chicago Times-Herald. A “flattery mirror” is the latest contribu- tion to the 's of middle-aged women, and it ts really an invention worth conslid- ering, as it deceives no one except the per- son who uses it, and who 1s a willing party to the deception. That it will be adopted by many young women who have relin- quished the hope of ever posing as beauties is very apparent, for she who looks into this mirror beholds such a softened and beautified presentment of her face and fea- s that she Is entirely satisfied with the t think of ft!’ said one woman who used it ever since it was discovered, “I sed to find more fault with my poor face, always seeing new lines and wrinkles and making myself wretched over them, until aw the mirror advertised and had’ taken into one. Then I recalled the baskets of peaches, with their pink vells, and saw that this glass was an improvement on that design. Of course I make it a rule of my Hfe never to look in any other mirror, and so I carry with me the softened, idealized vision of my face as it appears there. It has made me satisfied with myself, and that is a great gain.” “I always hated my tell-tale mirror,” said a business woman. “I looked so practical and uninteresting in it, but this new one makes me look really attractive, so that I go to my work and am not troubled with dissatisfaction over my appearance.” he effect is produced by a shadowed cor- ner and a gauze veil over the mirror. o————— Girls’ Hat Chains, From the New York Herald. That a woman's hat nover blows off is the tradition. That under no circumstances could it blow off, skewered to the hair as it is by deftly hidden pins, is no less a fac The following fashion, therefore, would seem to have no rhyme or reason. The mode, nevertheless, admits of no de- nicl. Were it the !dea for men to wear chains to their headgear it would seem appropriate. But instead of men it is wo- man that must do this. The hat of the girl at the resorts now has a tiny gold chain. It is so slender that it seems little more than a filmy thread of gold, and its links must show the highest degree ef workmanship. Both on the brim and on the watst of the wearer's frock this chain is secured by small jeweled pins. These must be unobtrusive and the entire red or blue cloth, with gilt braid orna- ments, but there are others less flashing and equally handsome, reminding one gomewhat of the mantles worn by our andmothers in the beginning of the cen- ury. These capes are thirty to thirty-six Inches long at the back, rounding up to the throat and fitting snug over the shouliers With a half circular flounce varrowing to nothing as it slopes up to the fared collar, which part is of more mydera growth than the remainder of the garmert. The mater- jal of these wraps fs more or less costly, of cloth or atlks or velvets, end of any desir- able color, but to suit the modern taste they must be finished at the throat by a effect dainty, lke the chain. My lady thus presents a novel appear- ance as she trips along country roads. Her hat cannot possibly blow off, cannot move aa inch and the chain {s quite useless, but, all said and done, ‘t is pretty and effect- ive. —+ 0+ —____ Just Before the Engagement. From Puek. Miss Sweetly—“When I was being shown over the treasury in Washington they let me hold a package of bills worth a million dollars in my hand.” large bow of crinkled gauze, satin or eilk, Mr. Loverly—“‘And it didn’t increase your value one bit.” sh HOLLAND'S QUEEN Wilhelmina Has Control Over Half a Dozsn Tarifty Colonies. ——— sels visit St. Eustatius annually. Yams and sweet potatoes ate exported. The cli- mate is moderate ai generally healthy, but furious hurricanes and terrific earth: quakes cause uneasiness to the natives dur- ing the months of the heated term, from May until November. > Where Tobaeco Grows. Like Curacao, St. Etstatius suffers from a scarcity of water. All the land is under cultivation, and tobacco, the principal pro- volcano, a great pyramid-shaped mountain, CLEAN, BUSY AND WELL GOVERNED duct, is raised on the:sides of the extinct The Dutch Settlers Home-Loving and Happy. Se ALL TONGUES SPOKEN — (Copyright, 1808, by the International Literary and News Service.) Just at the time when the young King of Spain is bidding farewell forever to the | islands of the West Indies which hay2 been held by his family for four certuries, the young Queen of Holland, upon her corona- tien two weeks ago, has come into posses- sion of half a dozen litue islands that com- prise the Dutch territory in the W2st In- dies. It is a new example of the old law of the survival of the fittest. Spain's great possessions have dwindled and declined, wrile littie Holland’s miniatur2 colonies have thriven and grown rich and pros- perous. One may experience some difficulty in lccating these Dutch islands on any ordi- nary map of the West Indies, but if one will hug the shore of South America with a magnifying glass, so to sp2ak, one may be rewarded by discovering about midway on the northern coast a iittle group of islands, the most westerly of which, Oruba, lies just off the coast at the easierr en- trance to the Gulf of Maracayoo, not more than twenty miles from iand. Curacao, another island, and the largest of the group, lies about a hundred miles east of Oruba and ninety miles north of the Venezuelan shore. At what appears to be an equal distance still further to the east is the Island of B Ayre, or Bon- aire, as it {s sometimes wrilten on the maps. Diligent search failed to discover St. Eustatius, St. Martin or Saba, the ts- lands that complete the group. Together these latter islands only comprise an area of thirty or forty square miles, which may account for the indifference of the geog- rapher. : Curacao has an area of 212 square miles and a population estimated to reach the very respectable figure of 40,000 souls, It is described as one of the cleanest and quaintest little islands in the world. Here at the town of Wilhelmstadt the Dutch governor has his residence, a solemn-look- ing old mansion fronting upon the Shatte- gat, or lagoon, that forms the harbor. Here he lives in considerable state, being permitted a few soldiers, who act as or- namental guards when not engaged in pre- siding over some equally ornamental and useless old cannon. : Nent Spots of the Indies. The streets and houses are thoroughly Dutch, the former narrow and clean, the latter thick walled and square, tile roofed and painted green or yellow. Wilhelmstadt is one of the neatest cities in the West In- cies. The public buildings are old, but very handsome. The harbor ts excellent. There are some fortifications which command its approaches, but these are not believed to be very formidable. Wilhelmstadt is a busy port, and the mer- ckants of the town conduct an extensive trade. The home government receives an annual revenue of $500,000, derived from the shipment of phosphates alone. The island is very rich in these deposits. To- bacco, sugar, Indigo, corn, figs, oranges and citron are raised and exported. Salt from the marshes is obtained in considerable quantities. The port is open to traders of all nationalities, no duties are charged and it is believed that ships load and unload contraband goods at its wharves, from whence they are carried to various ports. In olden times the merchants of the town grew rich by smuggling. There is reason to believe that the contraband trade is still carried on. As there are no wells or springs upon the island, the inhabitants are entirely depend- ent upon the rainfall, which is gathered into large cisterns and reservoirs. Some- times it is found necessary to import bar- rels of water from the Venezuelan coast or to distil it. From the sea the appearance of the 1s- land is somewhat disappointing. There 1s nothing of the tropical beauty one might naturally expect. Few trees grow upon the flat-topped hills. The only charm is in the quaint Dutch villages which nestle in the valleys of the rocky coast. A large proportion of the inhabitants are negroe: The Dutch settlers are, however, a thrifty, home-loving and happy people. They have transported to this Httle island many of the sterling qualities that have gone to the making of Holland's honorable piace among nations. Refugees and Pirates. The history of Curacao is not without in- terest. England, Spain and Holland have each held it for a time, and its waters have been infested by the buccaneers and pirates who sailed their dreaded ships upon the Caribbean sea. It has been the refuge of political fugitives for a century past. It was here that Bolivar, the hero of South American independence, came after the failure of his first attempt to free V. ne ezucla from Spanish tyranny. Bolivar was a native of Venezuela, born in 1783 of a rich and aristocratic family and educated in Spain and France. In the latter country he obtained a glimpse of the close of the French revolution. In 1809 he passed through the United States on his way home from a second visit to Europ lle much impressed by American institution After taking part in the ineffectual rebe lion of 1810 and 1811, Bolivar and other revolutionists were forced to fly from Ven- ezuela. It was at this time that Curacao, which he reached in safety, served as a safe retreat for the distinguished fugitive. Bolivar left Curacao in September, 18:2, to begin again the work of revolution which resuited in the freedom of South America. Bolivia is named for him. He scems to have been a patriot of the truest type, and willingly sacrificed his own wealth and in- terest to the cause he so earnestly e! ; roused. Although he absolutely controlled the revenues of Colombia, Peru and Bo- livia, he never enriched himself. On the contrary, he spent nine-tenths of his own fortune in the cause of freedom. At a later time General Santa Anna also resided in Curacao, during a temporary exile from Mexico. Whether this was be- fore or after he became president of Mex- ico does not appear. He was banished from Mexico on several occasions, but he always managed to return and in some measure at least to retrieve his fortunes. Many other famous men have sought safety in the island, and remained till rev- olutions passed, or until the time was ripe to return and raise the banner of revolt. Natives Speak English, Spanish is the language spoken in Cura- cao, but owirg to the coming and going of Americar sailors, English 1s understood by many of the natives. Buen Ayer ond Oruba are chiefly inter- esting for the fine cattle raised upon their fertile slopes. Buen Ayer has an area of one hundred and twenty-nine square miles, and a population of five or six thousand. Oruba has an area of only sixty-two square miles, but its population is larger than that of Buen Ayer. Only the southern part of the Island ot St. Martin belongs to Holland, twenty square miles belong to France, eighteen square miles to Holland. St. Mar- tin is mountainous, some of its hills reach- ing fourteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. Much of the land js unsuitable for cultivation. In 1882 the great salt-pans, which belong to Holland, produced over two hundred thousand tons of salt. Sugar cane jis cultivated, and some sugar is ex- ported. Horses, cattle, sheep, goats and pigs are profitably raised for export. Marigot is the chief seaport and capital of the French portion of St. Martin, while Philippsburg is the Dutch metropolis. The population of the entire island is estimated at about 7,000, equaily divided between the Dutch and French, St. Martin was first occupied by French freebooters in 1938, and by the Spaniards a little later. In 1648 it was divided between France and Holland. : St. Eustatius is another of the Dutch pos- sessions. It is a small island of volcanic origin. In 1882 the population was 2,247. There fs a pretty lttle village, Orangetown, which is defended by two forts. Many ves- which is fertile to its very crest. At one time St. Eustatius carried on an extensive contraband, trade with South America. The Dutch have held the island since 1635, but their claim to it was fre- quently disputed by both French and Eng- lish. The sovereignty of Holland was not confirmed until 1814. Since that time Hol- land has been left in undisputed possession. Over Saba also the Queen of Holland holds nominal sway. This little island is only a dozen miles in circumference, and has only about 2,000 inhabitants, yet it ts claimed at here was established, by the descendants of pirates who had settled on the island, the first republic in the western hemisphere. However, we are told that these proud republicans, who date their freedom back well toward the beginning of the eighteenth century, do, on Sundays and holidays, fly the flag of Holland, which they modify by embellishing it with a green cabbage in the left upper corner, The island 1s a perfect Gibraltar, and vir- tually impregnable. It is surrounded by a high wall of rock, in which there is but one rift, where steps have been formed in the steep gorge to permit the Sabans to descend to the one harbor. Shelled by Many Ships. English, French, Danish, Swedish and Dutch vessels, all, at one time or another, tried vainly to subdue the little island. Finally the Sabans acknowledged the pro- tection of Holland, but refused to be taxed, and to this day they appoint and pay their own governor and retain in every way their freedom. Small as these possessions of the Queen of Holland are, and utterly insignificant as they seem in ‘comparison with the great islands of Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica and Porto Rico, they yet demonstrate in a most strik- ing way the efficacy of proper colonization and good government. They prove that a state may be well regulated and prosperous in the vicinity of the equator as well as in the temperate zone. see ALLIGATOR EATS ITS MATE. Had a Fight and the Victor Swallows the Vanquished. From the New York Journal. A duel to the death was fought in the menagerie at Central Park one afterncon ‘ast week, the adversaries being two lusty alligators, and the victor celebrated the oc- casion by swallowing its adversary. How the trouble started no one knows, for when the struggle was first noticed the two creatures were busy as Spaniards dodging American cannon balls. They were not equally matched in size. One was exactly three feet in length, while the other was nearly six inches shorter. The latter, too, was considerably leaner than his antag- onist. No two bulldogs ever fought with more savageness than that shown by these two alligators. First the longer animal swoop- ed down on the smaller fellow and banged him over the left eye with his closed paw. Then he turned quickly, as though to rua away, but, instead, landed another blow on his opponent’s head with a sudden jerk of his tail. ‘Two such furious blows might well have crushed a foe less plucky, but the smaller animal dashed at his retreating antagonist and grabbing him by the end of the body tore off a whole strip of his hide and pro- ceeded to eat it without more ado. Infuri- ated by the pain of his torn skin, the big alligator rushed a second tme at his ad- versary, but the latter, profiting by his ex- perience, dropped the hide he was consum- ing, and, stepping aside, executed a flank movemerit on the enemy and charged at him goat-fashion, He plunged his head into the side of the big animal and rolled him over and banged him In the stomach. ‘This seemed to put more fire into the big alligator. He recovered himself and strv gled upon his feet again, while the small- er saurian drew off to the further end of the inclosure. The alligators faced each other for a mo- ment with a space of probably five feet be- tween them. Then, as if by the signal of a referee, they rushed at each other, and, as they met In the middle of the space, their heads came together with a bang. This seemed to stun the smaller animal, and the big fellow, seeing his opportunity, punched him in the side, rolled him over and pounded him furiously with his tail. Without waiting for his opponent to have a chance to recover, the big alligator seized him by the neck, chewed off his head, swal- lowed it in three or four bites, and then lay down on his stomach and slowly swallowed the body of the vanquished animal unti! nothing but the end of the body protruded from his jaw EDUCATED FEE Hindoo Tradesmen Make Good Use of Their Pedal Extremitie From the Philadelphia Record, ‘The French ethnologist, Professor F. Reg- nault, has made special studies in the far east in regard to tha ability of the Hin- doos to make use of their feet as auxiliaries of their hands. This ability is particularly noticeable when one watches Hindoo tradesman at their work. The carpenter employs his feet as a vyise.and as a gauge the shoemaker holds the shoe between his feet, leaving both his hands free to work upon it; the Hindoo butch2r holds a knife between the big and the second toa and cuts his meat by drawing it across tho knife and pressing it down with both hands. The help of the feet is most valua- ble in weaving, and it ts a wonderful thing to us to see a Hindoo artisan use both his hands and his feet in handling his loom. Regnault also observed a child climbiag a tree and grasping the branches of the tree between the two first tozs of either foot whenever a hold could thus be securcd. This collaboration of the feet with the hands, {t would seem, is the result of sev- eral chang2s in the physical dev which the Hindoo race has undergone in the course of time through outward agen- cies. Their hip joints are much freer and mere limber than ours, and will permit them to squat on the ground and at the sam> time approach the fect so near to their hands that they can grasp with their feet the work in hand, and hold it with some expense of strength. The ankle joint is also limber, and works freely, and the big toe is more dev2loped and ean be moved by them at will as regaris {ts bend- ing and stretching, its separating from and approaching toward the second toe. The normal foot of the Hindoo shows a large space between the big too and the second; this, however, ts due solely to their wearing sandals, which are ield in place by a wooden peg placed betwen tlese two toes. The constant musenlar exercise prac- ticed in holding the sandals naiuratly tends to strengthen these toes, and the us> of the feet being a general custom and tried even by children of the tendet2st age, has grad- ually changed the Hindoo anatomy. +e. = Not At All Feminine. From Puck. Aline—“Is she so very maseuline?” Anna—‘“Masculine! Why, actually, I heard her confess that her shoes were too tight! Serfous Old Party—“En, but this is a wicked world!” Flippant Individual—“You are right, Mrs. Mumble. For my part, I shall be quite sat- isfied if I get out of it alive!’—Punch, LIFE OF BISMARCK Secret Pages of History Soon to Be Made Public. MEMOIRS OF AN INTIMATE FRIEND The Great Chancellor's Part in the Franco-Prussian War. BREAK WITH THE EMPEROR Under the title “Bismarck: Some Secret Pages of His History,” the Macmillan Com- pany will publish immediately a book that is certain to attract much attention on both sides of the Atlantic and to give rise to a great deal of criticism, both favorable and adverse. The book is in two large volumes of upward of 600 pages each, and is from the pen of Dr. Moritz Busch, who from 1870 down to the time of Bismarck’s death en- Joyed the confidence of the great chancellor to a remarkable degree. For many years he Held a position of trust near Bismarck and was with him almost constantly dur- ing the Franco-Prussian war as well as later. He seems to have had absolutely free access to all of Bismarck’s papers and Was trusted implicitiy by him. His admira- tion for “the chief,’ as he usuaily calls Bismarck, knew no bounds. As, for in- stance, when he first saw Bismarck in his office, in February, 1870, he says: “I was quite close to him this time, and felt as 1 stood before the altar.” Again, he “He was my Master and my Messiah. “Blasphemy,” said Bismarck. “But you have deserved my confidence.” That Bismarck knew that Busch wouid publish the memoirs is evident from a num- ber of remarks made by the former on aif- ferent occasions, as when he said: “Busch will write the naked history when 1 am dead.” A Light on History. These secret pages of the great chancel- lor’s history, written by Dr. Busch during twenty-five years’ intercourse with him, throw a flood of light on maffy vexed que tions of European politics during the past ty years. Some years ago it was rumor- that Bismarck had sent his ed memoirs to England with the view to their personal publication without restriction after his death. It has been hinted, with some rea- son, that Dr. Busch’s memoirs are those to which this rumor referred. It seems that there may be some truth in the rumor, if we may believe the statement that great citement and consternation has been caused in high places in Germany by the approaching public in America of Dr. Busch’s Busch’s intimate relations wic and the chancellor's almost r2 dom of speech have given us what are among the most important secret political memoirs of the century. The book is for the most part in the form ot adiary. Dr. Busch seems to have mace it a point always to put facts, conversa- Uons and impressions on paper with as lit- tle delay as possible, and as a chronicler Was singularly caretul to note everything, however trivial it might seem the at first glance, if he thought it would be of interest or tend to throw any fuller light on the Iife and character of the great man. His admiration for Bismarck and his devo: tion to him knew no beunds. Bismarck’s Press Agent. Dr. Busch first came to know Bismarck in 1870, when he was attached to the cha cery as a sort of medium between the chancellor and the press. In this acity it was his duty to see that articles written at the dictation of Bismarck, or in known accord with his views, were published, not only in the Berlin and other German papers. but in the leading English dailie and also that articles that were pui antagonistic to his interest were contra- dicted and refuted. It is extremely inter- ing to note the extent as well as manner in which Bismarck used the press, as a rule the official or semi!-official organs, to advance his aims. Thus, the memoirs are full of such items as this: ‘July 15, 1870— Note: Our newspapers to call attention to the loyal attitude of Wurtemberg.”” And again: “In the evening the chancellor dic- tated an article for the Kruezzeitung on the confusion by the public between per- n- sonal and private proceedings of the king and his official acts.” That Bismarck was familiar with jour- nalistic methods which are not always re- garded as the highest is shown by the fol- lowing extract: “I wish you to write some- thing in the Kreuzzeitung against the Hanoverian nobles, It must come from the provinces, from a nobleman living in the country, and old Prussian—very blur somewhat in this style,” and then Bis- marck goes on to dictate just what he wants. The Franco-Prussian W The first volume of the memoirs the reader up to the close of the Franco- Prussian war, and the unrestricted manner in which Bismarck discusses with his as- sociates all sorts of affairs which bore upon that momentous struggle makes of cularly valuable addition The second volume wil! be in- ing to most readers mainly for what Bismarck took occasion to say to his in- timates of the incidents which led up to the severing of the relations between him- self and the young eniperor. He spoke his mind very freely indeed, did the bluff old n leader. Speaking of Bismarck at Versailles dur- the bock a part to h tor, ing th rly part of the war Dr. Busch say hroughout the whole war the chancellor wore uniform. It was generally the well-known undress of the yellow regi- ment of Landwehr cavalry. During the early months of the campaign he, as a rule, only wore the commander's cross of the Order of the Red Eagle, to which he after- ward added the iron Ircn Cross. He was very easy to please in the matter of his quarters and was willing to put up with the most modest shelter when better was not to be had. Indeed, it once happened that there was no bedstead and that his bed had to be made upon the floor.” On October 4 of the same year, speaking of General Von Moltke, the chancellor re- marked how gallantly he had attacked the punchbowl on a recent occasion, and in what excellent spirits he was. “I have not seen him looking so well for a long time past. That is the result of the war. It 1s his trade. I remember, when the Spanish question became acute, he looked ten years younger. Afterward, when I told him that the Hohenzollern had withdrawn, he sud- denly looked quite old and infirm. And when the French showed their teeth again ‘Molk’ was once more fresh and young. The matter finaily ended in a ‘diner a trois’—Molk, Roon and I—which resulted (here the chancellor smiled a cunning smile) in the Ems telegram.” His Opinion of Diplomacy. Speaking of one of his own experiences in a drinking bout, Bismarck said: “Such tricks were formarly an indispensable part of the diplomat’s trade. They drank the weaker vessels under the table, wormed all they wanted to know out of them, made them agre3 to things which were contrary to their instructions, or for which, at leasi, they had no authority. Then they were cecmpelled to put their signatures at once, and afterward, when they got sober, they could not imagine how th2y had done it.” These are but a few extracts from the book that go to show something of the character of the chancellor. ‘The book is so full of matter bearing upon the mner poll- tics of Germany since 1870 that it is very likeiy to be considered the book of the year. It 1s published in England and the Unlied States, but not in Germany. It is easy to see why the German emperor praferred that it should never see the light of print at all. Of the French people Bismarck is quoted as saying, literally: Estimate of the French. “The French are not so 2 as people generally think. As a nation they resem- ble certain individuals amongst our lower classes. They are iarrow-minded and brutal—great physical force, boastful and insolent, winning the admiration of men of th2ir own stamp through their pudacity. and violence. Here in Germany the Fret! are also considered clever by persons who do not think deeply, and their ministers are regarded as grzat statesmen because of their insolent interference in the affairs of the whole world, and their desire to rule everywhere. Audacity is always tmpr2s- sive. People think th-ir success ts due to shrewd political calculation, but {it is actually due to nothing else than the fact that they always keep 300,000 soldiers ready to back up th2ir policy. That alone, and not their political intelligenze, has enabied them to carry things with such a high hand. We must get rid of this fiction. : In political affairs the French are, in the fullest sense of the word, a narro’ minded nation. They have no id:a how things look outside of France, and learn nothing about it in their schools. The French educational establishments, for the greater glory of France, leave their pupils in the grossest ignorance as to everything beyond her frontiers, and so they have not the slightest knowledge of their ne!ghbors; that is the case witi the emperer, or at least he is not much better, to say nothing of Grammont, who is un ass (rindviek). Napoleon is ignorant at bottom, although he has been educated in German schools.” Break With the Emperor. A few days before Bismarck sent in bis now famous letter of resignation, speaking to Dr. Busch of the friction then existing between the emperor and himself, he said: “It is a question of three days, perhaps of three weeks, but I am going for certain. I cannot stand him any longer. He wants to know even whom I see, and has spies set to watch thos? who come in and go out.” As instancing the frankness with which Bismarck was accustomed to speak at times, the following extract is of interest: Busch—"When he (referring to the young emperor) falls into distress and difficulty he will himself come and fetch you back, serene highness. He will have to beg and implore you. Bismarck—"No, he is too proud for that. But he would like to keep Herbert, only that would not do; that would be a sort of mixed-goods train, and I should always have to bear a part of the responsibility. Moreover, although Herbert would doubt- less stand being lectured and censured by me, he would not stand it from Imperial Chancellor Botticher.” (He, _ therefore, seemed to think that tho latter had been selected as his successor, and knew nothing as yet of the choice of Caprivi.) “Besides, they have treated his father badl SSRIS THE SCIENCE OF DREss. How One Lose Power by Wearing Old Clothes, From the New York Tribune. Since fair Americans have decided to sive up Paris gowns and millinery they have turned to science to aid them in their efforts to be captivated—for scientists have been considering the subject of dress. It kas now claimed that, no matter how charming the gown, if worn in certain mood of mind it fails in its effect. Science is daily showing us the wonde of electricity, and proving the powers of telepathy, Prentice Mulford assures us “thoughts are things,” and our clothing absorbs our thoughts; therefore, dressing \ become in part a science and some- times more than a mere donning of gar- ments. “Your thought is an invisible emanation ever going from you,” Mul- ford declares, “and if such clothing be worn long it becomes saturated with this + our last thought 4 part of our latest, newest self.” Therefore, if one wears old clothes one absorbs into cne’s newest self of today the old thought one has previously cast off and with which those clothes are sa urated. One may then absorb into one’s newer self of today something of every mood of anger, irritation or anxiety sent from one while wearing those garments. It is possible to be each day a newer man or woman than one was yesterday, and one wants as much as possible to’ keep that newness and freshness unmixed with oldness. It is this sense that makes the old coat or gown feel so uncomfortable. It is the seme sense that makes new cloth- ing feel quite grateful and refreshing. it is claimed that there is no economy, only loss of pow2r, in wearing old clothe: Not even a snake, for the sake of econ- omy, will crawl into its old skin after casting it. Nature never ecoromizes after the fashion of man by putting old plumage on a bird. If she did thé face of nature would be as that of old coats and trousers, or a second-hand clothing store. It is healthful to live amid plenty of color. What so pleases eye and rests the mind? What rests the mind rests the body. In dress and the furnishings of homes there are ten new shades where there was one twenty years ago. What an improvement is the attire today, with its coloring, on the somberness of that of our ancestors! All the colors worn by the women of to- day w wern by nature long ago, but their usefulness and beauty had not yet been percelved. One should always put on fresh apparel for dinner or the theater or any social gathering. If the business suit is worn to dinner, opera or party one’s business self is then brought to a place where all business should be laid aside and forgot- ten in order that business should be better attended to the next day. One should always be tastefully and neatly dressed, as much so in the privacy of one’s own home as in public, for she who feels her- self tastefully attired will carry on her face the impress and result of such dress- ing. So the expression of the face im- proves through persistent, tasteful dress- ing; the whole bedy molds itself according to the moods or mental state of the spirit. If slovenly habit of attire predominates the same expression in some form will mold itself upon -the face, because the face will shape its expression in accord- ance with the prevailing mood of mind. In dressirg one generally chooses the color or combination of colors most ex- pressive of the mental condition. If a man’s life is entirely without aim or pur- pose he will wear anything which comes handy—parts of different suits thrown on without regard to becomingness, and even ig he buys new clothing he will allow the dealer to fit him out in patchwork. If he is verging on what is called the down grade of life and feels its joyousness is past he will probably wear black—possibly rusty black—the color so much affected by men and women who have turned their faces toward the despondent and soured views of life, to whom gayety and love of color are folly. The lusterless black is the color of stag- nation and decay, scientists declare; hence we who believe in death as the sundering of all tiles between us and the departed put on black as the badge of mourning and hopelessness, while the Chinese, who believe death to be only the loss of a body to a spirit, wear white, indicative of a temporary sadness, feeli: that such friends, though not seen with the physical eye, are as near them as ever. Even a millionaire cannot afford to wear a rusty hat if looked at from the right standpoint, for careless dressing means lack of love for the necessary effort in choosing the color and fashion of one's dress. A seedy coat, a soiled gown, tell no falsehood about the mental condition of the wearer. A_ well-known New York clothier has said: “The science of dress is well under- stood by each of my salesmen, and he knows the moment he glances at a cus- tomer just what he can sell him. There is a millionaire who comes in and orders most expensive garments, then grumbics because he never has the appearance of being well dressed, while the clerk who waits upon him looks like a prince in a $15 suit. We can not tell him it is be- cause he does not know how to wear his clothes, and the difference in their appear- ance is the thought put into them.” One should always wear suitable ap- parel for every occupation. An actor feels more his part when he wears the costume adapted to that part, especially when he has played in it many times, for it then becomes permeated with the thought pecu- Har to the part. If you put on the rags of the beggar you will for the same reason feel the cringing mental condition o? the beggar. A New York “swell” who donned the coarse garb of a workingman with the intention of taking up the life for the ex- perience of it, said: “I was surprised at the difference in my feelings almost im- mediately after stepping into the street in this garb.” How often one says, ‘Why, that hat or gown looks like So-and-So!” Showing that the phrase “wearing the mantle of an- other” has more truth In it than cne would suppose, for the garment once worn by another has absorbed a certain part of that person’s thought or self, and such thought can be reabsorbed by the person to whom it is given. Our clothes can be Tested as our bodies are. If a germent is hung out in the sunshine and wind for a time, when again brought into use it has @ feeling of rest about it. ne should always dress with consci2us care and precision, as one is then enabled 22 daily duties with no further USING STREET SWEEPINGS Data Recently Gathered by the Agricultura) : Departmant. Fertilizing Value of the Refuse ot the Cittes—Analyses of That Taken “The fertilizing value of street sweepings in the cities of the United States” is the subject of a bulletin soon to be issued by the Agricultural Department. It is of par- ticular interest to the people of Washing- ton, as ft was here that all experiments Were made and the sweepings used came from the different streets of the city The investigation was conducted under the direction of Chief Chemist H. W. Wiley and his first assistant, Erwin E. Ewell. The Teport says “The fertilizing value of street sweepings varies greatly with the nature of the pave- ments, being practically nothing in the case of material taken from macydamized roads, and approaching that of good stable ma- nure in the case of that collected on the hand-swept and well-paved streets of crowded cities, The regulations in different cities goveyhing the nature of substances which may be thrown into the alleys and streets, and thus find their way into the material collected by the sweepers, vary 80 greatly that there is consequently a corre- sponding difference in the cost of sorting and preparing the material for spreading on the land. It js belteved that the rapid- ly increasing sentiment in favor of the careful separation and matic utiliza- tion of all forms of city wastes will tend to remove this difficulty and thus increase the value of sweepings, particularly of, those collected in alleys, where the percent- age of miscellaneous rubbish 1s now often very great. In autumn the quantity, and, in many, cases, the quality, of the street cleaner’s product is greatly increased by the falling leaves. The Analyses Made. The analyses were made by Mr. T. C. Trescot, by Mr. George E. Patrick and by Mr. C. C. Moore. After presenting the analyses of many different samples of sweepings taken from the local streets, the report say “We have endeavored to supplement the analytical data just presented with the re- sults of practical teets made by farmers to determine the value of street sweepings 48 a source of plant food for field and garden crops and as a source cf the humus which is so nec y to the mechanical condit Inquiries sent to farmers and garden’ whose addresses were fur- nished by cflicials in charge of the street-c departments in various parts of the ocuntry brought a number of letters containing much information on the subject, and convincing evidence that well- selected and judiciously us ings pessess considerable manurial Value to the Farmer. “Withoat a knowledge of the results of a large number of carefully conducted ex- periments, it would be hard to determine from the results of an analysis just what price per ton farmers can afford to pay (or street sweepings in addition to the cost of hauling and spreading them on the land. Using the very conservative estimate of 10 cents per pound for the nitrogen, and disre- garding the phosphoric acid and potash, the poorest sample analyzed would be worth 84 cents per ton, while the richest sample would be worth $1.46 per ton. The material has constderable value for many solls in addition to the value of the plant food it contains. ardeners declare that it is very useful for improving the mechant- cal condition of stiff and badly acrated soils. It would also improve the condition of very light soils, which are deficient in moisture-holding capacity because of the low percentage of organic matter which they contain. “It is very dificult to make an estimate of the money value of strect sweepings because of the great variation in thelr composition, which is dependent upon the nature of the pavements, the season of the d street sweep- year during which they are collected, the manner of collection, ete., and because Trany accurate field tests must be made before we can determine their exact value as a source of plant food. Sixteen cities reported the prices at which street sweep- ings are sold to farmers by their stre cleaning departments or contractors. These prices vary from 15 cents to $2 per ton. The city of Atlanta reports a contract for the sale of the sweepings of its tres for $00 per year, and an arrangement which gives the street-cleaning department the advantage of a short haul. This seems to be an excelicnt arrangement for both par- ties concerned, as the average quality of the entir2 product of a city for a whole year ought not to vary greatly from year to year. Moreover, the price cen be ad- justed equitably from year to year as the true value of the material becomes eppar- ent. The Dumping Grounds. “The expense of hauling can be reduced in a measure by spreading the sweepings In thin layers on the dumping grounds and allowing them to dry out for a day or two before hauling them to the farm. The ni- trogen of the material is not of such a form that serious loss would result from this treatment unless it be continued for several days. Long exposure in thin layers during a rainy season would be certain to cause a considerable loss of the most val- uable plant food, because that which fs most easily leached out is the most readily available. “It may often happen that the ‘dumps’ whence the farmer must take his supply of street sweepings also contain other ma- terials possessing considerable fertilizing value. Any waste animal or vegetable mat- ter not contaminated with the germs of diseases of men or animals may very prop- erly be tested in regard to its value for this purpose. Several hundred pounds of. fish refuse were found on one of tho ‘dumps’ in Washington. Its source could not be ascertained. Its fertilizing value; ‘ based on data used by the experiment sta- tions for the valuation of fertilizers, would vary from $9 to $32 per ton, according to the degree of fineness of the ground ma- terial.” Statistics From Citi The department elso collected data in re- gard to the amount of street sweepings coi! lected in the citles of the United States and the methods in use for their disposition, The report says: “From an examination of these data it appears that 68.79 per cent of the people in the United States living in urban communi- ties having 10,000 or more inhabitants were Tepresented in the reports in regard to the disposal of street sweepings, while no ré-' ports were received from cities represent= ing 31.21 per cent of our urban population,’ Of the 354 cities to whom ifquiries were sent 57.62 per cent reported methods of, disposition, showing that among the cities reporting there was @ preponderance of those above the average size, “By the reports received it is shown that the cities containing 16.92 per cent of our urban population make more or less effort to utilize the fertilizing value of their sweepings. If the same proportion prevails in the case of the cities from which no re- ports were received this figure should be increased to 24.6 per cent. In general terms it may be stated that cities representing one-fourth of the urban population of the country make an effort to utilize the fer- tilizing value of some portion of their street sweepings. The data reported in regard to the quan- tity of street sweepings collected annually were still less complete than the data in regarmi to methods of disposition; 36.16 per cent of our urban population was repre- sented in the reports in regard to the quan- tity of street sweepings collected annually.’ For the cities reporting the average quan- tity collected annually is 168.9 tons per 1,000 inhabitants. Assuming this to be a true average for all of the cities of the United States, the total quantity of street sweep~ ings annually collected may be estimated at not far from 8,000,000 tons.” The Eskimo count by their fingers—one, two, three, four, five. Above five and up to ten they use the second hand. Above ten they employ the toes. , Twenty ‘ney de-. scribe as “a whole man.” T lom farther than this, but they Go so it; necessary; for example, they ty-two by saying, “ on ie second man; thirty-seven by on the man’s second foot.” Forty is “the wi of a second man.” They cannot or do not count beyond one hundred, which is “the whole of the fifth man,” ;